SILICONE-FREE COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS

Abstract

SILICONE-FREE COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS The present disclosure relates to compositions including squalene, at least one bio-based branched hydrocarbon), at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester and methods of using such compositions. The cosmetic composition is silicone-free. The cosmetic composition spreads easily and has a favorable sensory property without the use of silicones. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: SILICONE-FREE COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present disclosure generally relates to a cosmetic composition and methods of using a cosmetic composition. More specifically, the present disclosure relates to compositions containing a blend of emollients that contributes to a sensory texture comparable to a structure of compositions containing silicones. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] A variety of compositions, particularly cosmetic compositions, have been developed to allow easy and comfortable application to a targeted substrate. These compositions include one or more active ingredients that have demonstrated biological efficacy against skin aging.

[0003] However, in addition to the benefits of these products on the skin, consumers also seek a pleasant sensoriality at the time of application and / or after application. Therefore, these products traditionally contain silicone compounds. Silicones are well known in cosmetic products for providing a smooth application with minimal drag, a soft final feel, minimal oiliness and no tackiness. All of these characteristics are desired in products.

[0004] However, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e., whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges.

[0005] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients to meet these environmental challenges.

[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin and more particularly, of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0007] There is therefore in particular a need for new care compositions having a sensoriality comparable to existing care compositions, while being free of silicone compounds.

[0008] In particular, there is a need for care compositions free of silicone compounds having a sensoriality comparable to existing care compositions at the time of application, as well as a pleasant sensation after application. BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0009] This summary is provided to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form that are described more fully below in the detailed description of the invention. This summary is not intended to identify key features of the claimed subject matter, nor to be used as an aid in determining the scope of the claimed subject matter.

[0010] Indeed, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that the specific combination of squalene, bio-sourced branched hydrocarbon and bio-sourced pentaerythrityl ester in specific proportions solves the aforementioned technical problems. This combination advantageously makes it possible to eliminate the silicone compounds without altering the sensoriality of the composition, both upon application and after application.

[0011] These compositions also include sustainable ingredients, which helps address environmental challenges.

[0012] Cosmetic compositions typically include: a. squalene b. at least one bio-sourced branched hydrocarbon; c. at least one bio-sourced pentaerythrityl ester; and

[0013] wherein the cosmetic composition is substantially free of silicone.

[0014] Such a composition according to the present disclosure may be in the form of emulsions, dispersions, gels, balms and sticks. In certain embodiments, the cosmetic compositions are in the form of a gel.

[0015] In some embodiments, the squalene is present from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the squalene is present from about 0.15 to about 18% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0016] In one or more embodiments, the at least one bio-based branched alkane is selected from the group consisting of a C9-12 alkane, a C15-19 alkane, a C15-23 alkane, branched undecane isomers, branched tridecane isomers, and a mixture thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one bio-based branched alkane is present from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the at least one bio-based branched alkane is present from about 0.5% to about 18% by weight based on the weight of the composition.

[0017] In some embodiments, the at least one bio-sourced pentaerythrityl ester is selected from the group consisting of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate; Pentaerythrityl distearate; Dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; Pentaerythrityl isostearate / caprate / caprylate / adipate; Pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate; Pentaerythrityl tetralaurate; Pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate and a mixture thereof. In one or more embodiments, the at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester is present from about 0.1 to about 20 wt.% based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester is present from about 0.15 to about 18 wt.% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0018] In certain embodiments, the cosmetic compositions are free of silicones.

[0019] In one or more embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may comprise water.

[0020] In one or more embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may comprise one or more additional components selected from the group consisting of actives selected from humectant, antimicrobial, antioxidant, preservative, vitamin, vitamin derivative, UV filter, plant extract; and dye / pigment, filler, thickener, polymer, penetrant, perfume, dispersant, film-forming agent; ceramide; opacifier and combinations thereof.

[0021] In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may include one or more actives selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, disodium EDTA, sodium citrate, sodium hyaluronate, capryloyl salicylic acid, lactic acid, methyl dihydro jasmonate, acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valyglycine, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxycinnamate, n-hydroxysuccinimide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, chrysin, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, yeast extract, citric acid and combinations thereof.

[0022] In some embodiments, the compositions may comprise one or more actives selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, disodium EDTA, sodium citrate, sodium hyaluronate, capryloyl salicylic acid, lactic acid, methyl dihydro jasmonate, acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valyglycine, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxycinnamate, n-hydroxysuccinimide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, chrysin, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, yeast extract, citric acid and combinations thereof.

[0023] According to another aspect of the disclosure, the cosmetic composition may include: a. from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of squalene; b. from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of at least one branched hydrocarbon bio-sourced; c. from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester; and

[0024] wherein the cosmetic composition is substantially free of silicone.

[0025] The cosmetic compositions are useful for treating skin, for example, the skin of the face and neck of a human. Thus, the present disclosure relates to methods of treating skin comprising applying the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure to the skin. The cosmetic compositions are further useful in methods of treating skin dryness, repairing skin damage due to photoaging, and reducing the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots, and uneven skin texture. The aforementioned methods may be non-therapeutic.

[0026] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings which illustrate, by way of example, the principles of the invention.

[0027] The present disclosure describes exemplary embodiments in accordance with the general inventive concepts and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any manner. Indeed, the invention as described in the specification is broader than, and not limited by, the exemplary embodiments presented herein, and the terms used herein have their full ordinary meanings. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0028] “Cosmetically acceptable” means compatible with any keratinous substrate. For example, a “cosmetically acceptable vector” means a vector compatible with any keratinous substrate.

[0029] “At least one,” as used herein, means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0030] By "substantially free of silicone" as used herein is meant that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight of silicone. Preferably, the composition is completely free of silicone. By silicone is meant any silicone compound.

[0031] By "bio-based" as used herein is meant that the RM is composed of at least 50% by molecular weight of renewable carbons or recycled raw materials / by-products.

[0032] The transitional terms “comprising”, “consisting essentially of” and “consisting of”, when used in the appended claims, in their original and amended form, define the scope of the claims as relates to additional unmentioned elements or steps, if any, which are excluded from the scope of the claim(s). The term "comprising" is intended to be inclusive or broad and does not exclude any additional, unmentioned element, process, step or material. The term "consisting of" excludes any element, step or material other than those specified in the claims and, in the latter case, impurities ordinarily associated with the specified material(s). The expression "consisting essentially of" limits the scope of a claim to the specified elements, steps or material(s) and to those which do not materially affect the fundamental and novel feature(s) of the claimed invention.All methods and materials described herein that incorporate the present invention may, in alternative embodiments, be more specifically defined by any of the transitional terms "comprising", "consisting essentially of", and "consisting of".

[0033] In addition to working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and / or reaction conditions should be understood to be modified in all cases by the term "about," meaning to within 10% of the number indicated (e.g., "about 10%" means 9% to 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% to 2.2%).

[0034] All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise indicated. All percentages are calculated based on the total composition unless otherwise indicated. In general, unless expressly indicated herein, "weight" or "amount" as used herein with respect to the percentage of an ingredient refers to the amount of raw material comprising the ingredient, wherein the raw material may be described herein as comprising less than and up to 100% of the ingredient's activity. Accordingly, the weight percentage of an active ingredient in a composition is represented as the amount of raw material containing the active ingredient that is used and may or may not reflect the final percentage of the active ingredient, wherein the final percentage of the active ingredient depends on the weight percentage of the active ingredient in the raw material.

[0035] All ranges and amounts set forth herein are intended to include subranges and amounts using any disclosed point as a bound. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%" is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%," "1% to 5%," "2% to 10%," and so on. All numbers, amounts, ranges, etc. are intended to be modified by the term "about," whether or not expressly stated. Similarly, a given range of "about 1% to 10%" is intended to have both its 1% and 10% bounds modified by the term "about." Further, it is understood that when an amount of a component is given, it is intended to designate the quantity of active ingredient, unless specifically stated otherwise.

[0036] Although the numerical ranges and parameters within the general scope of the disclosure are approximations, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​presented in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, any numerical value inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation observed in their respective test measurements. The following example serves to illustrate embodiments of the present disclosure without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0037] The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions which contain a specific combination of squalene, bio-sourced branched hydrocarbon and bio-sourced pentaerythrityl ester in specific proportions. This combination advantageously makes it possible to eliminate the silicone compounds without altering the sensoriality of the composition, both upon application and after application.

[0038] The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure typically include: a. squalene b. at least one bio-sourced branched hydrocarbon; c. at least one bio-sourced pentaerythrityl ester; and

[0039] wherein the cosmetic composition is substantially free of silicone.

[0040] Cosmetic compositions are generally formulated in the form of emulsions, dispersions, gels. In certain embodiments, the cosmetic compositions are in the form of a gel.

[0041] As mentioned above, it is believed that the specific association of squalene, at least one bio-sourced branched hydrocarbon and at least one bio-sourced pentaerythrityl ester, has a sensory property comparable to cosmetic compositions which contain silicones.

[0042] Suitable components, such as those listed below, may be included or excluded from formulations for cosmetic compositions depending on the specific combination of other components, the form of the cosmetic compositions and / or the use of the formulation (e.g., lotion, serum, gel, cream, etc.). Squalane

[0043] The cosmetic compositions include squalene.

[0044] Squalane (C30H62, chemical name 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane) is a saturated hydrocarbon composed of a chain of 30 saturated carbon atoms with the following formula:

[0045] [Chem. 1]

[0046] It is obtained by hydrogenation of squalene (C30H50). Originally, squalene was extracted from shark liver oil. Squalane, due to its saturated chemical structure, is much more stable than squalene, which peroxidizes very easily.

[0047] The squalane used in the invention is preferably of plant origin. Preferably, the squalane comes from vegetable oils, preferably olive oil, wheat germ oil, bran oil, rice oil or olive starches.

[0048] Preferably, in the present invention, the squalane is extracted from olive oil.

[0049] For example, the product marketed under the name Neossance Squalane by Amyris will be used.

[0050] Squalene is typically present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the cosmetic compositions may include an amount of squalene ranging from 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, about 0.15 wt% to about 20 wt%, about 0.2 wt% to about 20 wt%, about 0.25 wt% to about 20 wt%, about 0.3 wt% to about 19 wt%, about 0.4 wt% to about 19 wt%, about 0.5 wt% to about 18 wt%, or about 1 wt% to about 15 wt%, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.Additionally or alternatively, the amount of squalene may be from 0.1 wt% to 20 wt%, from 0.2 wt% to 20 wt%, from 0.3 wt% to 20 wt%, from 0.35 wt% to 20 wt%, from 0.35 wt% to 15 wt%, from 0.5 wt% to 14 wt%, from 0.6 wt% to 14 wt%, or from 0.8 wt% to 12 wt%, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the composition.Likewise, in some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include an amount of squalene that is about 20 wt%, about 19 wt%, about 18 wt%, about 17 wt%, about 16 wt%, about 15 wt%, about 14 wt%, about 13 wt%, about 12 wt%, about 11 wt%, about 10 wt%, about 9 wt%, about 8 wt%, about 7 wt%, about 6 wt%, about 5 wt%, about 4 wt%, about 3 wt%, about 2 wt%, about 1 wt%, about 0.5 wt%, or about 0.1 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In one embodiment, the amount of squalene may be 2% or about 2% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Bio-sourced branched hydrocarbon

[0051] The cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure may comprise a mixture of branched alkanes having from 9 to 19 carbon atoms.

[0052] As examples of alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of mixtures of alkanes having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms having a molecular weight between 200 g / mol and 250 g / mol.

[0053] Preferably, the alkanes are branched.

[0054] Preferably, the alkanes are of plant origin.

[0055] Preferably, a mixture comprising 95 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of branched C15-C19 alkanes, and 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes. Such a mixture preferably has a molecular weight of approximately 216 g / mol. Such a mixture is marketed by Seppic under the reference Emogreen L15.

[0056] Alternatively, preferably, a mixture comprising 95 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of branched C15-C19 alkanes, and 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes. Such a mixture preferably has a molecular weight of approximately 248 g / mol. Such a mixture is marketed by Seppic under the reference Emogreen L19.

[0057] Alternatively, preferably, a mixture comprising 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of branched C15-C19 alkanes, and 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes. Such a mixture is marketed by Seppic under the reference Emosmart L19.

[0058] The cosmetic composition includes a bio-sourced branched hydrocarbon typically in an amount of about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the amount of bio-based branched hydrocarbon present in the cosmetic composition may be from about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 0.15 wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 0.2 wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 0.25 wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 0.3 wt% to about 19 wt%, from about 0.4 wt% to about 19 wt%, from about 0.5 wt% to about 18 wt%, or from about 1 wt% to about 15 wt%, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0059] In one embodiment, the amount of bio-sourced branched hydrocarbon may be 1% or approximately 1% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Bio-sourced pentaerythrityl ester

[0060] The cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure may comprise at least one or more bio-sourced pentaerythrityl esters.

[0061] Esters of pentaerythritol and mono- or di-fatty acids, C6-C22, such as the mixture of pentaerythritol ester and isostearic, capric, caprylic and adipic acids (Croda Supermol-L).

[0062] Polyesters comprising at least three ester functions, mono- or polycarboxylic acids, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, linear, branched or cyclic, optionally hydroxylated, in C4-C40 and respectively polyols or monoalcohols in C2-C40, preferably in C3-C40; said polyester optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl.

[0063] For example, mention may be made of oils comprising three ester functions, the acid comprising three carboxylic, monohydroxylated functions and the C2-C4 monoalcohol.

[0064] For example, mention may be made of linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 g / mol).

[0065] Also suitable are fatty alcohol esters or branched fatty acids, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW=697 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW=1202 g / mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW=1232 g / mol), and also those described in EP-A-0 955 039, such as pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2-tetradecanoate (MW=1538 g / mol).

[0066] As an example of a bio-sourced pentaerythrityl ester suitable for the invention, mention may be made of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate; pentaerythrityl distearate; dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl isostearate / caprate / caprylate / adipate; pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate; pentaerythrityl tetralaurate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate and their mixture.

[0067] The bio-based pentaerythrityl ester that may be mentioned includes pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, such as the commercial product sold under the trade name CRODAMOL PTIS-LQ-(MV) by Croda or JOLEE 7181 by Oleon or PAESTER PETIS and PAESTER PETIS / MB by Patech Fine Chemicals; dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, such as the commercial product sold under the trade name DUB DPHCC or DUB DPHCC MB by Stearinerie Dubois, pentaerythrityl distearate, such as the commercial product sold under the trade name CUTINA PES by BASF, dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, such as the commercial product sold under the trade name COSMOL 168 EV or SALACOS 168 EV by Nisshin Oillio; pentaerythrityl isostearate / caprate / caprylate / adipate, such as the commercial product sold under the trade name SP SUPERMOL L MBAL-LQ-(RB) or SUPERMOL L-LQ-(RB) by Croda.

[0068] In some embodiments, the at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester is present from about 0.1 to about 20 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In one or more embodiments, the at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester is present from about 0.15 to about 18% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0069] The cosmetic composition includes the bio-sourced pentaerythrityl ester typically in an amount of about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the amount of bio-based pentaerythrityl ester present in the cosmetic composition may be from about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 0.15 wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 0.2 wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 0.25 wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 0.3 wt% to about 19 wt%, from about 0.4 wt% to about 19 wt%, from about 0.5 wt% to about 18 wt%, or from about 1 wt% to about 15 wt%, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0070] In one embodiment, the amount of bio-sourced pentaerythrityl ester may be 1% or about 1% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0071] The cosmetic composition includes a bio-sourced branched hydrocarbon typically in an amount of about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the amount of bio-based branched hydrocarbon present in the cosmetic composition may be from about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 0.15 wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 0.2 wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 0.25 wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 0.3 wt% to about 19 wt%, from about 0.4 wt% to about 19 wt%, from about 0.5 wt% to about 18 wt%, or from about 1 wt% to about 15 wt%, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0072] In one embodiment, the amount of bio-sourced branched hydrocarbon may be 0.8% or approximately 0.8% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Cosmetically acceptable vector system

[0073] The cosmetic compositions include a cosmetically acceptable carrier system. The term "cosmetically acceptable" means a carrier that is compatible with any keratinous substrate, and for this purpose, includes water and optionally water-based solvents subject to any exclusions as disclosed herein.

[0074] The cosmetic compositions may comprise any constituent normally employed in the intended topical application and administration. In particular, mention may be made of water, solvents, fatty compounds (i.e., those described by the International Federation of Cosmetic Chemistry Societies, for example, in Cosmetic Raw Material Analysis and Quality Volume I: Hydrocarbons, Glycerides, Waxes and Other Esters (Redwood Books, 1994), polyols, pigments, fillers, silicones, surfactants, thickeners, gelling agents, preservatives and their mixtures in all proportions. Organic solvent

[0075] In accordance with the disclosure, one or more organic solvents are present in the composition. The organic solvent present in the cosmetic composition, according to the disclosure, includes, but is not limited to, butylene glycol, a C12-15 alkyl benzoate, glycerin, propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, or combinations thereof. Although these solvents are given by way of example, it will be appreciated that other solvents compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used.

[0076] In accordance with the various embodiments, the organic solvent may be present in a given composition in an amount of from about 10% to about 30%, alternatively from about 12% to about 28%, alternatively from about 15% to about 25%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, a person skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention. Water

[0077] In accordance with the various embodiments, water may be present in a given composition in an amount of from about 2% to about 90%, from about 3% to about 90%, from about 5% to about 85%, from about 10% to about 80%, alternatively from about 15% to about 75%, alternatively from about 20% to about 70%, alternatively from about 30% to about 65%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, one skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention. Polymeric thickener

[0078] In accordance with the various embodiments, the composition may include one or more polymeric thickeners. In some embodiments, the one or more thickeners may be selected from one or more of natural gums and synthetic polymers, for example, the thickener may be selected from the group consisting of starches (corn, rice, tapioca, potato), gums (xanthan, carrageenan, gellan, sclerotium, tarabiotech fermentation). In some particular embodiments, the thickener may be selected from acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, carbomer, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl guar, Ceratonia siliqua (locust bean) gum, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, crosslinked polymer ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate and polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer.

[0079] In some embodiments, the polymeric thickener may be one of a carbomer, an acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, a polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, microcrystalline cellulose (and) cellulose gum, xanthan gum, sodium carboxymethyl starch, sclerotium gum (and) xanthan gum, xanthan gum (and) Ceratonia siliqua (locust bean) gum (50 / 50), dehydroxanthan gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sclerotium gum (and) xanthan gum (75 / 25), sclerotium gum, xanthan gum (and) lecithin (and) pullulan, or their combinations.

[0080] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise two or more polymeric thickeners. The amount of each of the at least one polymeric thickener, if any, may be present in the cosmetic composition in a range of from about 0.01% to about 2%, or from about 0.01% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.3% to about 1.2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

[0081] In some embodiments, the total amount of polymeric thickener in the cosmetic composition, if any, is present from about 0.01% to about 5%, or from about 0.02% to about 2%, or from about 0.03% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

[0082] Thus, one or more polymeric thickeners, if any, are present by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5 to about 5.0 percent, including intermediate increments and ranges. Optional active compounds

[0083] In accordance with the disclosure, embodiments of the cosmetic composition may include one or more additional compounds selected from the active compounds, in particular keratinous tissue actives, such as, but not limited to, skin actives. In some embodiments, optional active compounds may be selected from the group consisting of: vitamins, for example, vitamin E, carbomer, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, at least one filter sunscreen, at least one hydroxy acid, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, an active compound is selected from the group consisting of alpha-, beta-, or polyhydroxy acids selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, galactose, and combinations thereof. For the avoidance of doubt, the cosmetic composition may include one or more of any of the optional active compounds. For example, the cosmetic composition may include one or more hydroxy acid, one or more vitamins, and the like.

[0084] Vitamin E may be selected from the group consisting of alpha-tocopherol, beta-tocopherol, delta-tocopherol, gamma-tocopherol and alpha-tocotrienol, beta-tocotrienol, delta-tocotrienol, gamma-tocotrienol and derivatives thereof. Salts or derivatives of tocopherols include pharmaceutically acceptable compounds such as acetate, sulfate, succinate, nicotinate, palmitate, allophanate, phosphate, quinone or halogenated derivatives, esters or stereoisomers, for example. The invention encompasses the use of vitamin E derivatives in which substitutions, additions and other modifications have been made in the 6-chromanol ring and / or side chain, provided that the derivatives maintain the antioxidant activity of vitamin E.Additional tocopherols can be constructed by conjugating various other moieties, such as those containing oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus, to the ring structure or side chain. Tocopherol derivatives can also be made by varying the length of the side chain from that found in tocopherols such as alpha-, beta-, delta-, and gamma-tocopherol. Tocopherols can also vary in stereochemistry and bond saturation in the ring structure and side chain. Additional tocopherol derivatives, including prodrugs, can be made by conjugating sugars or other moieties to the side chain or ring structure.Tocopherols include, but are not limited to, stereoisomers (e.g., + and - stereoisomers of alpha-tocopherol; (+ / -) indicates a racemic mixture) or mixtures of structurally distinct tocopherols (e.g., alpha-plus gamma-tocopherol). Tocopherols can be obtained from Roche, Nutley, NJ, for example.

[0085] In some embodiments, additional actives may also include at least one hydroxy acid selected from alpha-, beta-, or polyhydroxy acids. Thus, in various embodiments, a hydroxy acid may be selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, galactose, and combinations thereof.

[0086] In some embodiments, additional actives may also include one or more of the antioxidants selected from the group consisting of mangiferin, baicalin, resveratrol, tannic acid, polyphenols, amino acids and their derivatives, imidazoles, carnosine derivatives, carotenoids, carotenes (such as α-carotene, β-carotene and lycopene), vitamin A, coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, glutathione, plant extracts (such as rosemary extract, olive leaf extracts), green tea extracts, and combinations thereof.

[0087] In certain particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition includes a combination of active compounds present in the cosmetic composition comprising a hydroxy acid, tocopherol, panthenol, hyaluronic acid or a combination thereof.

[0088] Generally, each of the optional active compounds is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 30%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 30%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 15%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.1% to about 1%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0089] Vitamin E and its derivatives, including, but not limited to, tocopherol, may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 2%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 1%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 2.0%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0090] One or more of hyaluronic acid, panthenol, and carnosine may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.1% to about 3%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 1.0%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0091] Hyaluronic acid may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 1%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.05% to about 0.07%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0092] Panthenol may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 1%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.2% to about 0.4%. %, and in some embodiments, from about 0.2% to about 0.25%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0093] A hydroxy acid may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of from about 0.25% to about 10%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 8%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.25% to about 0.5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0094] Carnosine may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of from about 0.10% to about 1%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.20% to about 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.20% to about 0.25%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0095] Thus, in various embodiments, the optional active compounds, if any, are present in a cosmetic composition according to the disclosure, and each of the individual components within the ranges as described herein above, of about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 to about 30 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Optional additives

[0096] The compositions may also comprise at least one additive used in the cosmetic field which does not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention, such as, emulsifiers, emollients, perfumes, pH adjusters (citric acid, sodium chloride; neutralizing or pH adjusting agents (for example, triethanolamine (TEA) and sodium hydroxide), and combinations thereof), other cosmetically acceptable additives, such as, but not limited to, pearling agents, silica and coloring materials; essential oils; fruit extracts, for example, Pyrus Malus (apple) fruit extract and Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice powder. Although the optional additives are given as examples, it will be appreciated that other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used.

[0097] In accordance with the various embodiments, the amount of one or more additives, alone or in combination, present in the cosmetic composition may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure in a range of about 0.001% to about 20%, by weight, about 0.005% to about 0.01%, or about 0.01% to about 0.1%, or about 0.15% to about 5%, or about 0.40% to about 4 %, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values ​​by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0098] Thus, any one or a combination of additives may be present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, each or the combination being present in an amount of about 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2.3, 4.5, 6.7, 8. 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20 percent, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0099] Although the optional additives are given by way of example, it will be appreciated that other optional components compatible with suitable cosmetic applications known in the art may be used. It will be appreciated by a person skilled in the art that any optional additives are present only to the extent and in amounts that do not materially adversely affect the fundamental and novel feature(s) of the claimed disclosure. Thus, in certain embodiments that include optional additives, these optional additives will not materially adversely affect the solubility of the skin actives of the cosmetic composition. Thus, in certain embodiments that include optional additives, these optional additives will not materially adversely affect the cosmetic cleansing composition forming a single-phase solution.

[0100] In certain particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include optional additives, for example, one or more of phenoxyethanol, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium citrate, sodium chloride, sodium hydroxyacetophenone benzoate, potassium sorbate, citric acid, caprylyl glycol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, or combinations thereof. In certain embodiments, phenoxyethanol is present as a preservative in the cosmetic composition in a range of about 0.5% to about 2%, and in certain embodiments in a range of about 1% to about 2%.

[0101] In accordance with the various embodiments, the amount of one or more actives and additives, alone or in combination, when present in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure, may be present in a range of about 0.001% to about 20%, and in some embodiments, about 0.05% to about 0.01%, and in some embodiments, about 0.01% to about 0.1%, and in some embodiments, about 0.15% to about 5%, and in some embodiments, about 0.40% to about 4%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values ​​by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

[0102] Thus, any one or a combination of actives and additives may be present, each or the combination being present in an amount of about 0.001, 0.005, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0. 07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20 percent, by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0103] The following examples are intended to further illustrate the present invention. They are not intended to limit the invention in any way. Unless otherwise indicated, all parts are by weight. EXAMPLES

[0104] Example 1 - Preparation of the sample composition

[0105] A sample composition shown in the table below can be prepared as follows:

[0106] [Tables 1] FUNCTION INCI NAME Inventive Example Comparative Example Fatty compound SQUALANE 2,2 Bio-sourced branched hydrocarbon C15-19 ALKANE 1 Bio-sourced pentaerythrityl ester PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOS TEARATE 0,8 WATER QSQS Silicone CAPRYLYL METHICONE 4 Silicone DIMETHICONE 0,2 Polymer ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACR YLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0,15 0,3 Polymer XANTHAN GUM 0,35 0,3 Surfactant POLYGLYCERYL-4 CAPRATE; L AURETH-4 0,9-1,4 0,9-1,4 Preservative PHENOXYETHANOL 0,1-0,5 0,1 - 0,5 Chelating agent TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMIN E DISUCCINATE <0.15 <0.15 Solvent BUTYLENE GLYCOL; ALCOHOL DENAT.; PENTYLENE GLYCOL; GLYCERIN 2-15 4 Skin active ingredient CAFFEINE; CARNOSINE; ARGIN INE; SODIUM THIOSULFATE; CAPRYLIC SALICYLIC ACID; SODIUM HYALURONATE; HYDROX YACETOPHENONE; NIACINAM AID 0.5 - 20 0.5 - 20 pH regulator CITRIC ACID <0.6 <0.5

[0107] Water, chelating agent(s), preservative(s), and water-miscible solvents (minus alcohol) are mixed together in a tank of sufficient size for the batch. The polymers are then added to the batch with stirring and homogenization to thoroughly disperse the polymers. After a period of time, the batch becomes slightly more viscous and gel-like due to the thickening ability of the polymers. Next, surfactants and either silicones or bio-based oils are added to the batch with stirring and homogenization. The batch is allowed to homogenize until a dense emulsion is formed. Next, water-soluble actives are added with stirring and homogenization until all actives are solubilized. Any non-water-soluble actives are dissolved in alcohol, if any, and then added to the batch with stirring and homogenization.

[0108] Example 2 - Testing different emollient mixtures

[0109] In this section, several emollient blends were tested and compared with each other. The results for each attribute were rated on a scale of 1 to 5 and tabulated. See Table 2.

[0110] [Table 2]

[0111] Comparison data of emollient mixtures Body Test Action time Oiliness Comfort Final sensation 1 Branched alkane (BA) 1 1 2 1 1 2 Squalane (S) 2 4 5 2 4 3 Pentaerythrityl ester (PE) 5 3 3 5 5 4 BA + S 1 2 4 1 2 5 BA + PE 6 S + PE 4 4 4 4 4 7 BA + S + PE (inventive) 2 5 3 4 4 8 Silicone reference 2 5 2 4 4 Results 1 = light, fluid, liquid 1 = volatile, rapid absorption, short friction 1 = minimal oily appearance 1 = no comfort 1 = dry, vaporous 5 = heavy, thick 5 = persistent, slippery, long friction 5 = oily, shiny 5 = high comfort 5 - neat, silky

[0112] The above examples demonstrated the difference in sensory property and spreadability that an emollient blend could achieve. The objective of the present disclosure was to develop an emollient blend with favorable sensory property and spreadability like those of light and medium silicones in the same basic formula.

[0113] Since the chemistry of silicones and the resulting sensory property are quite unique, it is not obvious how to replace these compounds and there is no clear and universal replacement product using carbon-based emollients; therefore, a mixture was sought and developed.

[0114] A mixture of emollients was developed in a particular base as an example. The base formula was an oil-in-water emulsion serum that contained a crosslinked ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (i.e., Pemulen EZ4U) polymer as a stabilizing polymer, with xanthan gum as a thickener to increase viscosity. It also contained various actives, a penetration enhancer, preservatives, solvents, and an oil phase. In the comparative case (i.e., Comparative Example 1), the oil phase was composed of silicone emollients. In the inventive case (i.e., Inventive Example 1), the oil phase was composed of renewable carbon-based emollients designed to provide a similar sensory property to the Comparative Example which contained the silicone blend.When selecting carbon-based emollients, a few key sensory attributes were tested, including spreadability during application, lightness / volatility, action time, comfort, and feel after application.

[0115] It is well known in the art that the unique spreadability and durability of silicones arise from silicone bonds having greater bond rotation / flexibility and the raw material itself having lower surface tension than those found in carbon emollients. Thus, carbon-based emollients with good spreadability and low stickiness were needed. Without making it a theory, it is believed that the many branching points in the molecules can surprisingly increase the spreadability compared to the corresponding linear (i.e., unbranched) molecule due to packing and molecular forces large enough to make a noticeable difference. Thus, branched carbon-based emollients were chosen for study.

[0116] Squalane was chosen for its overall slip and spreadability, with a medium action time and a smooth texture without excessive oiliness. The molecule has 6 branch points (6 methyl groups at regular intervals) and an intermediate molecular weight. However, using squalane alone resulted in a slightly too oily formula and not much comfort, as illustrated in Table X, Trial 2.

[0117] Branched renewable hydrocarbons (C9-12 alkane, C15-19 alkane) were chosen for Test 1 because they allowed rapid dissipation while remaining light. However, it was observed that when used alone, the action time was almost not long enough, there was

[0118] minimal comfort and the final feeling is too dry with tightness.

[0119] Pentaerythritol is a unique polyol in that it contains 4 -OH groups, each that can react with a fatty acid to develop a pentaerythrityl ester. Due to the branching contained in these esters, they have a high molecular weight, but remain liquid and spreadable. For example, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate contains 4 distinct C:18 chains, each with its own branching point. These esters gave a richer feel with excellent comfort and increased overall action time when blended with lighter volatile emollients. When used alone, as shown in Trial 3, the sensory property was too heavy and rich, with poor action time.

[0120] However, when squalane, branched hydrocarbon and pentaterythityl ester were blended together, as shown in Table 2, Run 7, the blend demonstrated the balance of important sensory attributes needed to replace silicones.

[0121] Surprisingly, the renewable carbon-based emollient blend exhibited similar positive sensory attributes to the silicone-containing formula, with low stickiness even in the presence of high levels (>10%) of actives and glycerin. The emollient blend also resulted in a low greasiness, which is another advantage as carbon-based oils can often be perceived as greasier than silicones.

[0122] Although the disclosure has been described with reference to a preferred embodiment, those skilled in the art will understand that various changes may be made and equivalents may be substituted for elements thereof without departing from the scope of the invention. In addition, numerous modifications may be made to adapt a particular situation or subject matter to the teachings of the invention without departing from the essential scope thereof. Accordingly, it is intended that the invention not be limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as the best mode contemplated for carrying out this invention, but that the invention includes all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims.

Claims

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: a. from 0.1 to 20% by weight of squalene; b. from 0.1 to 20% by weight of at least one bio-sourced branched hydrocarbon; c. from 0.1 to 20% by weight of at least one bio-sourced pentaerythrityl ester; and wherein the cosmetic composition is substantially free of silicone; and wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the at least one biosourced branched alkane is chosen from the group chosen from a C9-12 alkane, a C15-19 alkane, a C15-23 alkane, branched isomers of undecane, branched isomers of tridecane and their mixture.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one bio-sourced pentaerythrityl ester is selected from the group consisting of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate; pentaerythrityl distearate; dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl isostearate / caprate / caprylate / adipate; pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate; pentaerythrityl tetralaurate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate and mixtures thereof.

4.

5. The composition of claim 1, further comprising water. The composition of claim 4, wherein the water is present in an amount of 2% to 90% based on the total weight of the composition.

6. A composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more additional components selected from the group consisting of actives selected from humectant, antimicrobial, antioxidant, preservative, vitamin, vitamin derivative, UV filter, plant extract; and dye / pigment, filler, thickener, polymer, penetrant, perfume, dispersant, film-forming agent; ceramide; opacifier and combinations thereof.

7. The composition of claim 1, further comprising one or more actives selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, disodium EDTA, sodium citrate, sodium hyaluronate, capryloyl salicylic acid, lactic acid, methyl dihydro jasmonate, acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valyglycine, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxycinnamate, n-hydroxysuccinimide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, chrysin, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, yeast extract, citric acid and combinations thereof.

8. A method of treating the skin comprising applying to the skin a cosmetic composition according to claim 1.