Aqueous composition comprising a solid monoester with at least 40 carbon atoms, a mixture of solid monoesters of C14-C18 fatty acid, a vegetable wax and a neutralized fatty acid salt
A mascara composition using solid monoesters, vegetable waxes, and neutralized fatty acids in an aqueous medium addresses the grainy issue of animal and mineral waxes, achieving volumizing effects with a smooth texture and sustainable ingredients.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024000499
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-01-18
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-25
AI Technical Summary
Existing mascara compositions often contain animal and mineral waxes, leading to a grainy appearance and negatively impacting performance, while consumers seek natural and sustainable alternatives for eyelash and eyebrow makeup.
A composition comprising solid monoesters of linear fatty acids with at least 40 carbon atoms, a mixture of C14-C18 fatty acid monoesters and C10 fatty alcohols, vegetable waxes, and neutralized fatty acids in an aqueous medium, without animal or mineral waxes, to achieve volumizing effects without a granular appearance.
The composition provides effective eyelash and eyebrow makeup with volumizing effects while maintaining a smooth texture and avoiding a grainy appearance, using natural and sustainable ingredients.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Aqueous composition comprising a solid monoester with at least 40 carbon atoms, a mixture of solid monoesters of C14-C18 fatty acid, a vegetable wax and a neutralized fatty acid salt Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care and / or makeup of keratin fibers, and aims to propose compositions more particularly dedicated to makeup of eyelashes or eyebrows.
[0002] Generally speaking, compositions dedicated to the makeup of keratin fibers, for example eyelashes, aim to densify the thickness and visual perception of the eyelashes and ultimately the look. These mascaras are described as aqueous or cream mascaras, when they are formulated in aqueous base and anhydrous mascaras when they are formulated in the state of dispersion in an organic solvent medium.
[0003] A wide variety of cosmetic effects can be achieved by applying mascara to keratin fibers, particularly eyelashes, such as, for example, a loading, lengthening, thickening, and more particularly volumizing makeup effect.
[0004] These effects are essentially adjusted through the quantity and nature of the particles and particularly those of the waxes present in the mascaras. Generally speaking, mascaras in fact have a significant quantity of wax(es) and in particular from 10 to 35% by weight of waxes, more generally from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to their total weight.
[0005] For obvious reasons, the improvement of mascara textures which condition the manifestation of one or more makeup effects such as eyelash volume is a constant concern of the cosmetic formulator.
[0006] Consumers are also increasingly looking for cosmetic products made, in whole or in part, from natural or naturally derived constituents, and preferably of plant origin, whether for reasons of better skin tolerance, environmental protection, sustainable development or biodiversity.
[0007] By "natural compound" is meant a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as for example grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.
[0008] By compounds “of natural origin” is meant a natural compound which has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications not affecting the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound comprising mainly natural constituents which may or may not have undergone transformations. As a non-limiting example of an additional chemical or industrial treatment resulting in modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, we can mention those authorized by control bodies such as Ecocert (Reference for organic and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as “Cosmetics and Toileries Magazine”, 2005, vol. 120, 9: 10.
[0009] Patent applications FR3080034A1 WO2019 / 201930A1, WO2019 / 201931A1 and WO2020 / 127981A1 disclose mascara compositions, in particular in the form of a wax / water emulsion, which may consist of ingredients of natural plant origin, namely at least one solid monoester of fatty acid with a total number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 40, in particular behenyl behenate, at least one fatty acid having from 14 carbon atoms to less than 20 carbon atoms, at least one base capable of at least partially neutralizing said fatty acid, and water.
[0010] We know of mascaras currently on the market which are wax-in-water emulsions with a significant quantity of beeswax of animal origin and wax of mineral origin such as paraffin and behenyl behenate. Some of these compositions tend to give products with a grainy appearance which is unattractive and can have an impact on the expected performance on the eyelashes.
[0011] There remains a need to produce new mascara formulas in the form of a wax / water emulsion comprising a mixture of fatty acid monoester and natural or naturally derived waxes making it possible to obtain good makeup performance such as volume without observing a granular effect.
[0012] The applicant, during its research, unexpectedly discovered that the objectives as defined above were achieved by using a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin fibres, in particular eyelashes and eyebrows, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (1) at least one solid monoester of linear fatty acid comprising a total number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 40 of the following formula (I): [Chem 1] R1-O-R2 (I) in which R1 and R2 are linear and saturated and have, independently of each other, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with R1 representing an acyl radical, and R2 representing an alkyl radical, and (2) at least one mixture of solid monoesters of C14-C18 carboxylic acid and a C10 fatty alcohol; and (3) at least one vegetable wax; and (4) at least one fatty acid having from 14 carbon atoms to less than 20 carbon atoms, and (5) at least one base capable of at least partially neutralizing said fatty acid, and (6) water.
[0013] Unexpectedly, the inventors have in fact found that the formulation comprising at least one solid monoester of linear fatty acid (1), at least one mixture of solid monoesters of fatty acid (2), at least one natural vegetable wax (3), at least one fatty acid having from 14 carbon atoms to less than 20 carbon atoms (4) in form neutralized by a base (5) and water (6), makes it possible to obtain compositions producing good makeup properties on the eyelashes, in particular a good volumizing effect without observing a granular appearance.
[0014] This discovery is the basis of the invention. Objects of the invention
[0015] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin fibres, in particular eyelashes and eyebrows, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (1) at least one solid monoester of linear fatty acid of the following formula (I): [Chem 1] R1-O-R2 (I) in which Ri and R2 are linear and saturated and have, independently of each other, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with Ri representing an acyl radical, and R2 representing an alkyl radical, and (2) at least one mixture of solid monoesters of C14-C18 carboxylic acid and a C10 fatty alcohol; (3) at least one vegetable wax; and (4) at least one fatty acid having from 14 carbon atoms to less than 20 carbon atoms, and (5) at least one base capable of at least partially neutralizing said fatty acid, and (6) water.
[0016] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention do not comprise animal wax or mineral wax.
[0017] The term “solid fatty acid monoester” means any organic compound comprising only one ester function in its structure and which is solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
[0018] The term “waxes” means lipophilic compounds, solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C and up to 120 °c.
[0019] By “mineral wax” is meant any wax of natural or synthetic origin
[0020] A second object of the present invention is a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin fibers, consisting of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined above. Definitions
[0021] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin fiber" is understood to mean eyelashes and eyebrows. This term "keratin fibers", within the meaning of the present invention, also extends to synthetic false eyelashes.
[0022] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.
[0023] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention do not contain animal wax or mineral wax.
[0024] By composition not containing animal wax or mineral wax, is meant any composition comprising less than 5% by weight in total quantity of animal wax and mineral wax, or even less than 2% by weight, more particularly less than 1% by weight, even more particularly less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even said composition is free from such waxes.
[0025] The term “waxes” means lipophilic compounds, solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C up to 120°C.
[0026] By "animal wax" is meant any wax derived partly or totally from an animal. Examples include beeswax, Ghedda wax, shellac, Chinese wax, lanolin also called wool wax, their mixtures and their derivatives.
[0027] By "mineral wax" is meant any natural or synthetic hydrocarbon-based wax consisting solely of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms. Among the natural mineral waxes, we can notably cite so-called fossil waxes including those of petroleum origin such as lignite, ozocerite, pyropissite, macrocrystalline waxes also called paraffins - including crude waxes or slack wax, slack wax raffinates, deoiled slack wax, soft waxes, semi-refined waxes, filtered waxes, refined waxes - and microcrystalline waxes called microwaxes including slack wax from "bright stock"
[0028] Among the synthetic mineral waxes, mention may be made of semi-synthetic waxes and fully synthetic waxes. The synthetic waxes may be waxes obtained by a Fischer-Tropsch process, consisting for example of paraffins with a number of carbon atoms ranging from 20 to 50 or polyolefin waxes, for example homo- or copolymers of ethylene, propene or butene, or even longer chain α-olefins. The latter can be obtained by thermomechanical degradation of plastic polyethylene, by the Ziegler process, by high-pressure processes, or via processes catalyzed by metallocene species. These waxes can be crystallizable, partially crystallizable or amorphous. The aforementioned synthetic waxes are generally apolar and can be chemically treated to obtain polar waxes, for example by one or more of the following reactions: air oxidation, grafting, esterification, neutralization by metal soaps, amidation, direct copolymerizations or addition reactions.
[0029] For the purposes of the invention, the vegetable waxes present in the composition are distinct from those likely to be included among the solid monoester components of fatty acid(s) (1) and (2) required according to the invention and additives of the fatty alcohol type. Solid fatty acid monoester (1)
[0030] A composition according to the invention comprises (1) at least one solid monoester of linear fatty acid of formula (I).
[0031] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid monoester(s) of formula (I) are present in the composition in a content varying from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0032] The solid linear fatty acid monoester(s) (1) considered according to the invention correspond to the following formula (I): R1-O-R2 (I) in which R1 and R2 are linear and saturated and have, independently of each other, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with R1 representing an acyl radical, and R2 representing an alkyl radical.
[0033] This or these fatty acid monoester(s) is (are) used during the preparation of a composition according to the invention, in an individualized form or in the form of a mixture comprising exclusively linear fatty acid monoesters of formula (I). They are preferably of natural plant origin.
[0034] The fatty acid monoester(s) (1) are solid at room temperature (25°C) and pressure (760 mm Hg).
[0035] In a preferred embodiment, they have a melting point greater than 50°C.
[0036] The melting temperature can be measured by any known method and in particular particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).
[0037] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the acyl and alkyl radicals representing R1 and R2 respectively are chosen in such a way that the compound (I) is solid at a temperature less than or equal to 30°C.
[0038] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, R1 and R2 are, respectively, acyl and alkyl radicals having a number of carbon atoms varying from 20 to 30, preferably from 20 to 24.
[0039] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, R1 and R2 are, respectively, acyl and alkyl radicals having the same number of carbon atoms.
[0040] In particular, the fatty acid monoester (1) according to the invention is chosen from arachidyl arachidate and behenyl behenate.
[0041] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the solid monoester of linear fatty acid (1) is a behenyl behenate.
[0042] A behenyl behenate suitable for the composition according to the invention may in particular be KESTER WAX K-72® marketed by the company Koster Keunen, DUB BB® marketed by the company Stearinerie Dubois, DERMOWAX BB® marketed by the company Alzo.
[0043] Mixture (2) of solid monoesters of fatty acid of carboxylic acid in Cu-Gs and fatty alcohol in Cw
[0044] A composition according to the invention comprises at least (2) a mixture of solid monoesters of C14-C18 fatty carboxylic acid and C18 fatty alcohols,
[0045] The mixtures of solid monoesters of solid fatty acids that can be used are mixtures of monoesters derived from C14-C18 carboxylic fatty acids and C14 fatty alcohols. They are preferably of natural plant origin.
[0046] Preferably, the C14-C18 carboxylic fatty acid is linear and saturated, more particularly chosen from palmitic acid (C16), cetyl alcohol (C18), stearyl alcohol (C18) and mixtures thereof.
[0047] Preferably, the CM fatty alcohol is linear and saturated, and more particularly myristic alcohol.
[0048] According to a particular form of the invention, a mixture (2) of solid monoesters of C16-C18 carboxylic acids and C18 fatty alcohol with the INCI name CETYL ESTERS will be used, such as the products “CETYL ESTER WAX 814®” from the company KOSTER KEUNEN, “SP CRODAMOL MS MB AL®”, “CRODAMOL MS PA®” from the company CRODA, “MIRACETI®” and “MIRACETI MB @” from the company “LASERSON, RADIA 7747®” from the company OLEON and “SPERMWAX VEGETAL®” from the company ROBECO.
[0049] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the mixture of solid monoesters of C14-C18 fatty acid and C18 fatty alcohol (2) is present in the composition in a content varying from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Vegetable waxes.
[0050] A composition according to the invention comprises (3) at least one vegetable wax.
[0051] As stated previously, the natural plant wax(es) (3) used in the compositions of the invention are different from the solid fatty acid monoesters (1) and (2) and the fatty alcohols as defined previously.
[0052] As examples of vegetable waxes (3), mention may be made of camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax, sugar cane wax, jojoba wax, Trithrinax campestris wax, raffia wax, alfalfa wax, wax extracted from Douglas fir, sisal wax, flax wax, cotton wax, Batavia dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, rice bran wax, palm tree wax, Japanese wax, their mixtures and their derivatives.
[0053] According to a preferred form, the vegetable wax (3) will be chosen from carnauba wax (INCI name: COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX / COPERNICIA CERIFERA CERA), rice bran wax (INCI name: ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX / ORYZA SATIVA CERA), and mixtures thereof.
[0054] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the total quantity of vegetable wax(es) (3) is (are) present in the composition in a content varying from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty acid acid (4)
[0055] A composition according to the invention comprises (4) at least one fatty acid comprising from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms.
[0056] The fatty acid (4) according to the invention comprises from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid comprises from 16 to less than 20 carbon atoms. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the number of carbon atoms varies from 16 to 18.
[0057] In particular, the fatty acid(s) (4) according to the invention is (are) chosen from linear fatty acids, saturated fatty acids and their mixtures.
[0058] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid of the ionic surfactant is linear and saturated.
[0059] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid(s) (4) is (are) chosen from palmitic acid, stearic acid and their mixtures, and preferably comprises at least stearic acid with the INCI name STEARIC ACID.
[0060] Thus, according to another embodiment of the invention, the composition uses as fatty acid (4) a mixture of C16-C18 fatty acids, preferably a mixture of fatty acids having 16 carbon atoms, such as palmitic acid, and fatty acids with 18 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid.
[0061] A preferred stearic acid suitable for the invention is, for example, Stearic Acid 1850® marketed by the company Southern Acids.
[0062] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least 3.0% by weight of fatty acid(s) (4) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0063] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid (4) is present in a content ranging from 3.5 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 4.0 to 20.0% by weight, better still from 4.5% to 15.0% by weight, even better still from 5.0 to 15.0% by weight of fatty acid (2), in particular stearic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0064] As mentioned above, this fatty acid (4) is implemented in an ionic form generated via its interaction with an organic base (5). This base (5) is implemented in a quantity sufficient to be able to at least partially neutralize at least one fatty acid (4). Base (5)
[0065] The composition according to the invention comprises (5) at least one base capable of at least partially neutralizing said fatty acid. This base may be organic or inorganic.
[0066] According to a first variant, the base (5) is at least one organic base.
[0067] Preferably, the base of organic origin (5) is chosen from amino acids such as arginine; alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, aminomethyl propanol; primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamines such as 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)propane-1,3-diol (also called tromethamine) and aminomethylpropanediol; and mixtures thereof.
[0068] According to a particular embodiment, the base (5) is a primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine.
[0069] According to another particular embodiment, the base (5) is an amino acid, in particular arginine.
[0070] By "primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine" is meant in particular a primary dihydroxyalkylamine, it being understood that by primary is meant a primary amine function, i.e. -NH2, and the alkyl group being a linear or branched C1-C8 hydrocarbon chain, preferably a branched C4, such as 1,3-dihydroxy-2 methyl propyl. The primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine is preferably 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-2-propylamine (also called aminomethylpropanediol or AMPD).
[0071] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the base (5) of organic origin is aminomethylpropanediol.
[0072] Such an aminomethylpropanediol suitable for the invention is for example AMPD Ultra PC® marketed by Angus (Dow Corning).
[0073] According to a second variant, the base (5) is at least one inorganic base.
[0074] This inorganic base is chosen from alkali metal hydroxides and ammonium (NH4+).
[0075] Preferably, the inorganic base (5) is chosen from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.
[0076] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the inorganic base (5) is sodium hydroxide.
[0077] The amount of base (5) is adjusted to obtain sufficient neutralization to confer effective ionicity to the associated fatty acid (2).
[0078] Preferably, the base (5) is present in an amount sufficient to neutralize some or all of the carboxylic functions of the fatty acid(s) (4) comprising from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms. In a preferred embodiment, the amount of base is such that it is capable of neutralizing all the acid functions of the fatty acid (4).
[0079] For example, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least 0.1% by weight, better still at least 0.15% by weight of base(s) (5), relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0080] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the base (5) is present in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2.0% by weight of base(s), in particular sodium hydroxide or aminomethylpropanediol, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0081] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain an ionic surfactant resulting from the total neutralization of stearic acid by sodium hydroxide.
[0082] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain an ionic surfactant resulting from the total neutralization of stearic acid by aminomethylpropanediol.
[0083] The fatty acid (4) and the base (5) making up the neutralized ionic surfactant according to the invention can be introduced into the composition in the form of a single commercial material, or one after the other in the form of two separate commercial materials. Preferably, the fatty acid (4) and the base (4) will be introduced into the composition in the form of two separate commercial materials. Water (6)
[0084] A composition according to the invention comprises (6) water.
[0085] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 30.0% by weight, better still at least 40.0% by weight, or even a content of 50 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0086] In yet another particularly preferred embodiment, the com- position according to the invention comprises: (1) behenyl behenate as a linear fatty acid monoester, and (2) a mixture of esters of C16-C18 carboxylic acids and C18 fatty alcohols with the INCI name CETYL ESTERS and (3) at least one vegetable wax, in particular chosen from carnauba wax, rice bran wax and mixtures thereof (4) at least one fatty acid selected from stearic acid, palmitic acid and mixtures thereof, and (5) at least aminomethylpropanediol as a base, and (6) water.
[0087] In yet another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: (1) behenyl behenate as a linear fatty acid monoester, and (2) a mixture of esters of C16-C18 carboxylic acids and C14 fatty alcohol with the INCI name CETYL ESTERS, and (3) at least one vegetable wax, in particular chosen from carnauba wax, rice bran wax and mixtures thereof (4) at least one fatty acid selected from stearic acid, palmitic acid and mixtures thereof, and (5) at least aminomethylpropanediol as a base, and (6) water. Other components
[0088] In addition to the aforementioned compounds, a composition according to the invention may of course comprise additional ingredients. a. Polyol
[0089] A composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one polyol.
[0090] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” means any molecule organic comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
[0091] Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
[0092] A polyol suitable for the invention may be a compound of alkyl type, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, carrying on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at least four -OH functions.
[0093] The polyols advantageously suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are those preferably having 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0094] Advantageously, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and mixtures thereof.
[0095] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is pentylene glycol.
[0096] The polyol(s) are preferably present in the composition in a total content ranging from 1 to 10%, better still from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. b) Other surfactants
[0097] The composition according to the invention may comprise other surfactants than that formed by the neutralization of a fatty acid having from 14 carbon atoms to less than 20 carbon atoms (3) by the base (4) as co-surfactants.
[0098] However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 5.0% by weight, preferably less than 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of non-ionic surfactants, and in particular of non-ionic surfactants with an HLB, measured at 25°C, greater than or equal to 7.
[0099] Examples that may be mentioned include non-ionic surfactants that are fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, in particular polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters such as PEG-40 Stearate (HLB = 17.5) such as the products sold under the names MYRJ S40® by Croda, Nikkol MYS-40MV® and NIKKOL MYS-40V® by Nikko Chemicals Co.
[0100] The term HLB (from the English "Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance") is well known to those skilled in the art, and designates the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant determined at 25°C in the sense of Griffin. By hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) is meant the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.
[0101] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of non-ionic surfactant with an HLB, measured at 25°C, greater than or equal to 7.
[0102] The term “composition free of non-ionic surfactants with an HLB, measured at 25°C, greater than or equal to 7” means a composition comprising less than 1% by weight of non-ionic surfactant with an HLB, measured at 25°C, greater than or equal to 7, or even less than 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even completely free of non-ionic surfactant with an HLB greater than or equal to 7. c) Liquid fatty phase
[0103] A composition according to the invention may also comprise a liquid fatty phase.
[0104] Such a liquid fatty phase is a liquid organic phase at the temperature ambient (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) non-aqueous and immiscible with water.
[0105] The liquid fatty phase may contain a non-volatile oil chosen from polar oils, non-polar oils and their mixtures.
[0106] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.3 to 20.0% by weight, from 0.5 to 12.0% by weight, and preferably from 2.0 to 8.0% by weight of non-volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0107] A composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 5.0% by weight, more preferably less than 2.0% by weight of volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of volatile oils.
[0108] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg). d) Coloring matter
[0109] A composition according to the invention, and in particular those dedicated to makeup, may additionally comprise at least one coloring material such as powdery materials, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes.
[0110] The powdery coloring materials can be chosen from pigments and pearlescent agents.
[0111] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.
[0112] By "liposoluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring.
[0113] By "water-soluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.
[0114] The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or not.
[0115] By “mineral pigment” is meant any pigment which meets the definition of Ullmann's encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter.
[0116] Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminium.
[0117] The nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The pigments that can be used according to the invention may also be organic pigments.
[0118] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone compounds.
[0119] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 1725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolics as described in patent FR2 679 771.,
[0120] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.
[0121] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0122] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
[0123] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. Other products known under the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0124] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).
[0125] Liposoluble colorants are for example Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto.
[0126] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.
[0127] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a pulverulent coloring material, preferably of the pigment type, in particular metal oxides, in particular iron oxides, in particular black iron oxides (CI 77499).
[0128] Preferably, said coloring matter is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, more particularly from 4.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, e) Water-soluble film-forming polymer
[0129] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer.
[0130] In the present application, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and better still a deposit whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolable and manipulable in isolation, for example when said deposit is made by pouring onto a non-stick surface such as a Teflon or silicone surface.
[0131] Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of poly-condensate type, polymers of natural origin, and their mixtures.
[0132] Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers include: - proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as wheat and soy proteins - cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose; - acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; - vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic chitin or chitosan polymers; - gum arabic, in particular that with the INCI name ACACIA SENEGAL GUM, guar gum, xanthan gum, karaya gum; - alginates and carrageenans; - glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; - shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals; - deoxyribonucleic acid; - muccopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate; - and their mixtures.
[0133] According to a preferred embodiment, the water-soluble film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from cellulose polymers, gum arabic and their mixtures.
[0134] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble film-forming polymer is a mixture of hydroxyethylcellulose and guar gum with the INCI name: ACACIA SENEGAL GUM.
[0135] According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises a total content of water-soluble film-forming polymer(s) greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, for example ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. f) Ionic polymeric dispersing agent.
[0136] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one agent ionic polymeric dispersant.
[0137] The ionic polymeric dispersing agents are preferably chosen from: - homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and their salts, - copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and their salts, - styrene / (meth)acrylic acid copolymers and their salts, - vinylnaphthalene / (meth)acrylic acid copolymers and their salts, - styrene / maleic acid copolymers and their salts, - vinylnaphthalene / maleic acid copolymers and their salts, - maleic anhydride copolymers and their salts - their mixtures.
[0138] By "salts" is meant the alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K of said acids, the mono, di or triethanolamine salts or basic amino acids such as lysine or arginine, of said acids, and their mixtures.
[0139] Among the maleic anhydride copolymers and their salts, mention may be made in particular of the copolymers obtained by copolymerization of one or more maleic anhydride comonomers and one or more comonomers chosen from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone, olefins comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms such as octadecene, ethylene, isobutylene, diisobutylene, isooctylenes, and styrene, and mixtures thereof, the maleic anhydride comonomers being able to be optionally hydrolyzed, partially or totally. And more particularly, the copolymers of maleic anhydride and diisobutylene and their salts and more particularly that marketed under the name OROTAN 731DP® by the company Rhodia.
[0140] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent(s) thus correspond(s) to the following formula (II):
[0141] [Chem.2] (II) in which: RI represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group or a * group -C(O)O / X+ or a group *-C(O)O-R6, with R6 representing a linear or branched alkyl group, C1-C50, preferably C1-C8, preferably C1-C4, R2, R3, and R4, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R5 representing a phenyl group, or a linear or branched alkyl group, C1-C50, preferably C1-C20, or a *-C(O)O-R7 group, with R7 representing a linear or branched alkyl group, C1-C50, preferably C1-C8, preferably C1-C4, x represents an integer ranging from 1 to 100, y represents an integer ranging from 0 to 100, n representing an integer between 1 and 1000, x, y, and n being chosen so that the equation "n (x+y)" is greater than or equal to 20, preferably greater than or equal to 50, X+ representing a cation notably chosen from a sodium atom, a potassium atom, or an ammonium group, preferably is an ammonium group.
[0142] According to a more particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) thus correspond(s) to the following formula (II'): [Chem 3] (he') in which: RI, R2, R3, and R4 representing a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group, in particular a methyl, R5 representing a linear or branched alkyl group, C1-C50, preferably C1-C8, preferably C1-C4, in particular a methyl, x represents an integer ranging from 1 to 100, y represents an integer ranging from 0 to 100, n representing an integer between 1 and 1000, x, y, and n being chosen so that the equation “n (x+y)” is greater than or equal to 20, preferably greater than or equal to 50, X+ representing a cation notably chosen from a sodium atom, a potassium, or an ammonium group, preferably an ammonium group.
[0143] Preferably, a composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one ionic polymeric dispersing agent chosen from - copolymer salts of at least two or more monomers chosen from the group comprising acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of their esters, - styrene / maleic anhydride copolymer salts, - methacrylic acid homopolymer salts; - and mixtures thereof.
[0144] For example, the following ionic polymer type polymeric dispersing agents can be cited:
[0145] - ammonium salts of copolymer of at least two or more selected monomers in the group comprising acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of their esters with the INCI name: AMMONIUM ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, for example marketed under the name “SYNTRAN KLG219-CG®” by the company Interpolymer, or “DISPEX AA 4040®” from the company BASF, - ammonium salts of styrene / maleic anhydride copolymer (50 / 50), in particular in 30% aqueous solution sold under the reference SMA1000H® by the company Arkema; - sodium salts of styrene / maleic anhydride copolymer, in particular in 40% aqueous solution sold under the reference SMAlOOOHNa® by the company Arkema, - a homopolymer of the sodium salt of methacrylic acid with the INCI name: SODIUM POLYMETHACRYLATE, in particular in 25% aqueous solution sold under the reference DARVAN® 7-N by the company RT Vanderbilt Company, Inc., - their mixture(s).
[0146] More particularly, a polymer of the sodium salt of methacrylic acid with the INCI name: SODIUM POLYMETHACRYLATE will be used, in particular in 25% aqueous solution sold under the reference DARVAN® 7-N by the company RT Vanderbilt Company, Inc.
[0147] A composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total content of ionic polymeric dispersing agent(s) greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight and less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly ranging from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, more particularly still ranging from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. f) Cosmetic active ingredients
[0148] As cosmetic active agents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, cosmetic active ingredients such as emollients, vitamins such as vitamin C, vitamin B3, Panthenol (B5), sunscreens, and their mixtures.
[0149] These additives may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15.0%, of the total weight of the composition.
[0150] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. Cosmetic applications
[0151] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a wax-in-water emulsion.
[0152] It can be manufactured by known processes, generally used in the cosmetic field.
[0153] The composition used according to the invention may be a makeup composition, a makeup base, in particular keratin fibers, or base coat, a composition to be applied over makeup, also called a top coat, or even a composition for treating keratin fibers.
[0154] More specifically, the composition according to the invention is a mascara.
[0155] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.
[0156] Packaging and application assembly or kit
[0157] The present invention also relates to a set, or kit, for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers comprising: - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.
[0158] Said applicator may be integral with a gripping member forming a cover for said packaging device. In other words, said applicator may be mounted in a removable position on said device between a closed position and a position clear of a dispensing opening of the packaging device for said composition.
[0159] A keratin fiber coating assembly suitable for the invention may comprise an applicator configured to apply said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, and where appropriate a packaging device suitable for receiving said composition. Applicator
[0160] The applicator comprises means for smoothing and / or separating keratin fibers, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, in particular in the form of teeth, hairs, spikes or other reliefs.
[0161] The applicator is arranged to apply the composition to the eyelashes or eyebrows, and may include, for example, a brush or a comb.
[0162] The applicator can still be used for finishing the makeup, on an area eyelashes or eyebrows made up or loaded with composition.
[0163] The brush may comprise a twisted core and bristles caught between the turns of the core, or be made in another way.
[0164] The comb is for example made from a single piece by molding plastic material.
[0165] In some embodiments, the application element is mounted at the end of a rod, which may be flexible, which may contribute to improving comfort during application. Packaging device
[0166] The packaging device comprises a container intended to house the composition for coating the keratin fibers. This composition can then be taken from the container by immersing the applicator therein.
[0167] This applicator may be integral with a closure element of the container. This closure element may form a gripping member of the applicator. This gripping member may form a cover to be removably mounted on said container by any suitable means such as screwing, snap-fastening, fitting or other. Such a container may therefore reversibly house said applicator.
[0168] This container may optionally be equipped with a wringer suitable for removing excess product taken by the applicator.
[0169] A method of applying the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes or eyebrows may also comprise the following steps: - form a deposit of the cosmetic composition on the eyelashes or eyebrows, - leave the deposit on the eyelashes or eyebrows, as the deposit may dry.
[0170] It should be noted that according to another embodiment the applicator can form a product container. In such a case a container can for example be provided in the gripping member and an internal channel can internally connect this gripping member to the raised application elements.
[0171] Finally, it should be noted that the packaging and application assembly can be presented in the form of a kit, the applicator and the packaging device being able to be housed separately in the same packaging article.
[0172] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.
[0173] In the description and the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are percentages by weight. The percentages are therefore expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The ingredients are mixed, in the order and under the conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.
[0174] The invention will now be described by means of examples which are provided for illustrative purposes only and should not be construed as limiting examples of the invention. Example 1 (invention): mascara
[0175] The following composition was prepared.
[0176] [Tableauxl] Phase Al Ingredients Ext invention STEARIC ACID 6.6 CETYL ESTERS mixture of solid monoesters of C16-C18 carboxylic acids and fatty alcohol in CM (CRODAMOL MS PA® - CRODA 6.0 COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX / COPERNICIA CERIFERA CERA 3.5 BEHENYL BEHENATE (KESTER WAX K-72® - Koster Keunen) 6.0 ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX / ORYZA SATIVA CERA 6 HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL 0.5 A2 IRON OXIDES / CI 77499 7.1 B1 WATER / AQUA qs 100 PEG-40 STEARATE (MYRJ S40® - Croda) 0.5 SODIUM DEHYDROACETATE 0.3 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 3.0 AMINOMETHYL PROPANEDIOL 1.5 B2 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.9 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM 3.4 C SODIUM POLYMETHACRYLATE (aqueous solution of the polymer at 25% by weight) (DARVAN-7N® - VANDERBILT) 1 D PANTHENOL 0.013 Preparation protocol
[0177] The ingredients were weighed in cups in stages. A Maxilab® rotor-stator mixer from Olsa was heated to 95°C. Once at temperature, introduced the phases Al, B2, A2, B1 into the rotor-stator mixer, then it was put into operation with the following conditions: Temperature of 95°C Internal blade agitation: 80 revolutions / minute External blade agitation: 60 rpm Emulsifier agitation: 3500 rpm.
[0178] The mixture thus obtained was emulsified for 20 minutes.
[0179] Then, the obtained composition was slowly cooled to 40°C with the following conditions Temperature of 40°C Internal blade agitation: 60 revolutions / minute; Agitation of external blades: 30 revolutions / minute. Emulsifier agitation: 0
[0180] Phase C was introduced when the rotor-stator mixer was at 40°C.
[0181] Then it was cooled to 35°C and phase D was introduced, still in the same terms.
[0182] The rotor-stator mixer was cooled to 25°C and then drained. Sensory volume tests
[0183] The sensory tests for evaluating the volume of the eyelashes and the appearance of the eyelashes (granular or smooth appearance), after application of the mascara of example 1, were carried out on a panel of 10 people. A rating on a scale from 0 to 10 was established on the following criteria: Immediate charge 0 no deposit - 10 lots of deposit Final charge 0 no charge - 10 lots of charge; Eyelash appearance 0 granular appearance - 10 very smooth lashes. Mascara application protocol:
[0184] After the first pass of the brush over the eyelashes, the immediate load was analyzed and a score from 0 to 10 was given. Then, the makeup was continued by performing 29 additional passes over the eyelashes, and finally the final makeup was analyzed by evaluating each criterion from 0 to 10. Results of sensory volume tests:
[0185] [Tables2] Sensory evaluation of eyelash volume Average score Ext invention Immediate charge 5.6 Final charge 6.7 Eyelash appearance 7.4
[0186] The results showed that the mascara of Example 1 according to the invention comprising the linear fatty acid monoester (1) of formula (I): Behenyl Behenate, the mixture (2) of solid monoesters of C16-C18 carboxylic acids and C14 fatty alcohol of INCI name: CETYL ESTERS, the vegetable waxes (3) COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX / and ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX, the anionic surfactant stearic acid (4), the base (5): AMINOMETHYL PROPANEDIOL and the water (6) produced after application to the eyelashes, a good volumizing effect and a smooth appearance without observing a granular effect.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition (1) at least one solid monoester of linear fatty acid comprising a total number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 40 of the following formula (I): R1-O-R2 (I) in which Ri and R2 are linear and saturated and have, independently of each other, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with Ri representing an acyl radical, and R2 representing an alkyl radical, and (2) at least one mixture of solid monoesters of C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C10 fatty alcohol; and (3) at least one vegetable wax; and (4) at least one fatty acid having from 14 carbon atoms to less than 20 carbon atoms, and (5) at least one base capable of at least partially neutralizing said fatty acid, and (6) water.
2. Composition according to claim 1, according to the invention do not contain animal wax or mineral wax
3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the solid fatty acid monoesters (1) and (2) are of natural plant origin.
4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the solid linear fatty acid monoester (1) is selected from arachidyl arachidate and behenyl behenate, preferably the linear fatty acid monoester is behenyl behenate.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the fatty acid monoester(s) of formula (I) are present in the composition in a content varying from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture (2) of solid monoesters of C16-C18 carboxylic acids and C18 fatty alcohol with INCI name: CETYL ESTERS.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the mixture (2) of solid monoesters of C14-C18 fatty acid and C18 fatty alcohol is present in a content varying from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the natural plant wax (3) is chosen from camauba wax (INCI name: COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX / COPERNICIA CERIFERA CERA), rice bran wax (INCI name: ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX / ORYZA SATIVA CERA), and mixtures thereof.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the total quantity of vegetable wax(es) (3) is (are) present in the composition in a content varying from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the fatty acid(s) is (are) chosen from linear fatty acids and saturated fatty acids and mixtures thereof, and preferably from linear and saturated fatty acids.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty acid(s) is (are) chosen from stearic acid, palmitic acid, and mixtures thereof, and preferably comprises at least stearic acid.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 3.0% by weight of fatty acid(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably the content of fatty acid(s) varies from 3.5 to 20.0% by weight, better still from 4.0 to 20.0% by weight, better still from 4.5 to 15.0% by weight, even better still from 5.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the base is at least one inorganic base, in particular chosen from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium, and mixtures thereof, preferably is sodium hydroxide.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the base is at least one organic base, preferably amino acids, amines, primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamines, and mixtures thereof; in particular chosen from arginine, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, aminomethyl propanediol and mixtures thereof; and more particularly aminomethyl propanediol.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 0.1% by weight, better still at least 0.15% by weight of base(s) (3), relative to the total weight of the composition, better still the content of base(s) varies from 0.2 to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 30.0% by weight, better still at least 40.0% by weight, or even a content of 50 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one polyol, preferably chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and mixtures thereof, and more particularly pentylene glycol.
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additional surfactant, at least one non-ionic surfactant with HLB, measured at 25°C, greater than or equal to 7, more preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters, in particular PEG-40 Stearate.
19.
20. Composition according to the invention comprising a liquid fatty phase. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one coloring material such as pulverulent materials, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes; preferentially chosen from metal oxides; more preferentially chosen from iron oxides, and more particularly black iron oxides (CI 77499).
21. Composition according to claim 21, wherein the pigment is chosen from metal oxides; or chosen from iron oxides, titanium dioxides, and mixtures thereof; more particularly chosen from iron oxides.
22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer, preferably chosen from cellulose polymers, gum arabic and their mixtures.
23. The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one ionic polymeric dispersing agent, in particular a polymer of the sodium salt of methacrylic acid with INCI name: SODIUM POLYME-THACRYLATE.
24. A composition according to any preceding claim in the form of a mascara.
25. Assembly, or kit, for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers as defined in any one of the preceding claims, comprising: - a packaging device comprising said composition; - an applicator of said composition.
26. Process for coating keratin materials, in particular the skin, in particular the contour of the eyes, eyelashes or eyebrows, keratin fibers such as eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials at least one composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 25.
Citation Information
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