COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR THE CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

Abstract

COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR THE CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (i) at least one hexapeptide; (ii) at least one dipeptide; (iii) Laminaria digitata extract; and (iv) at least one polyhydroxy acid. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials, comprising the application of said composition to the keratinous materials. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR THE CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Human skin is made up of three compartments, namely a superficial compartment, which is the epidermis, the dermis and a deep compartment, which is the hypodermis.

[0003] The dermis is mainly composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix (ECM). This extracellular matrix is made up of various macromolecules responsible for the mechanical strength of the skin, its flexibility, tone and elasticity, as well as physiologically important functions (hydration, thermoregulation and regulation of skin permeability). These macromolecules include, in particular, collagens, elastin and glycoconjugates (glycoproteins and proteoglycans).

[0004] Collagens represent 70% of the proteins in the ECM. Naturally, collagens are constantly renewed, but this renewal decreases with age, leading to thinning of the dermis.

[0005] A wide variety of cosmetic products are used to care for the skin, for example, to resist skin aging by stimulating the production of collagen. However, some cosmetic products on the market are not satisfactory in terms of resistance to skin aging.

[0006] Thus, there is still a need to formulate a skin care composition, which can effectively resist skin aging. Summary of the invention

[0007] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a skin care composition, which can effectively resist skin aging.

[0008] Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic skin care process.

[0009] The inventors have now discovered that the composition of the present invention can effectively resist skin aging.

[0010] Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition comprising: i. at least one hexapeptide; ii. at least one dipeptide; iii. Laminaria digitata extract; and iv. at least one polyhydroxy acid.

[0011] The inventors have discovered that the composition of the present invention can effectively resist skin aging by stimulating the production of collagen IV.

[0012] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0013] In a third aspect, the present invention provides a use of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention for providing an anti-aging effect on keratinous materials.

[0014] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0015] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0016] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular, in the expressions "between...and..." and "ranging from... to...".

[0017] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0018] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all of the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0019] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing an amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise specified, the numerical values and parameters described Here are approximate values which, if necessary, can be changed depending on the desired objective.

[0020] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin and mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is particularly considered according to the present invention.

[0021] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0022] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises: i. at least one hexapeptide; ii. at least one dipeptide; iii. Laminaria digitata extract; and iv. at least one polyhydroxy acid. Hexapeptides

[0023] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one hexapeptide.

[0024] Preferably, the hexapeptide is any type of hexapeptide containing the sequence -Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-.

[0025] More preferably, the hexapeptide is chosen from those of formula (I):

[0026] Ri-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-R2(I)

[0027] in which • R 1 is selected from H, a polymer derived from polyethylene glycol, a non-cyclic aliphatic group, alicyclyl, heterocyclyl, heteroarylalkyl, aryl, aralkyl and R 5 -CO-, in which R 5 is selected from H, a non-cyclic aliphatic group, alicyclyl, aryl, aralkyl, heterocyclyl and heteroarylalkyl; • R2 is selected from the group consisting of -NR3R4, -OR3, -SR3, wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from H, a polyethylene glycol-derived polymer, a non-cyclic aliphatic group, alicyclyl, heterocyclyl, heteroarylalkyl, aryl and aralkyl; and • Ri and R2 are not amino acids.

[0028] As used herein, the term "non-cyclic aliphatic group" includes linear (i.e., straight chain and unbranched) or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbyl groups such as alkyl, alkenyl, and alkynyl. The non-cyclic aliphatic group may be substituted (monosubstituted or polysubstituted) or unsubstituted.

[0029] As used herein, the term "alkyl" includes both saturated straight and branched alkyl groups, which may be substituted (monosubstituted or polysubstituted) or unsubstituted. The alkyl group is linked to the rest of the molecule by a single bond. The alkyl group has from 1 to 24, preferably from 1 to 16, more preferably from 1 to 14, even more preferably from 1 to 12, but even more preferably 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms. The term "alkyl" includes, for example, methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, 2-methylbutyl, heptyl, 5-methylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl, lauryl, hexadecyl, octadecyl and amyl.

[0030] As used herein, the term "alkenyl" refers to a group containing one or more carbon-carbon double bonds, and which may be straight or branched and substituted (monosubstituted or polysubstituted) or unsubstituted. Preferably, it has 1, 2 or 3 carbon-carbon double bonds. If more than one carbon-carbon double bond is present, the double bonds may be conjugated or unconjugated. Preferably, the alkenyl group has from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 16, more preferably from 2 to 14, even more preferably from 2 to 12, but even more preferably 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms. The alkenyl group is linked to the rest of the molecule by a single bond. The term "alkenyl" includes, for example, vinyl(-CH2=CH2), allyl(-CH2-CH=CH2), prenyl, oleyl, linoleyl and the like.

[0031] The term "alkynyl" refers to a group containing one or more carbon-carbon triple bonds and which may be linear or branched, and substituted (monosubstituted or polysubstituted) or unsubstituted. Preferably, the alkynyl group has 1, 2 or 3 carbon-carbon triple bonds. The triple bonds may be conjugated or unconjugated. The alkynyl group has from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 16, more preferably from 2 to 14, even more preferably from 2 to 12, but even more preferably 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms. The alkynyl group is linked to the rest of the molecule by a single bond. The term "alkynyl" includes, for example and without limitation, ethynyl, 1-propynyl, 2-propynyl, 1-butynyl, 2-butynyl, 3-butynyl, pentynyl, such as 1-pentynyl, and the like.The alkynyl group may also contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds, and alkynyl groups include, for example and without limitation, but-1-en-3-ynyl and pent-4-en-1-ynyl groups, and the like.

[0032] The term "alicyclyl" is used herein to cover, for example and without limitation, aliphatic cyclic (alicyclic) groups such as cycloalkyl or cycloalkenyl or cycloalkynyl groups. The term "alicyclyl" refers to a monoradical that contains one or more rings of carbon atoms, the rings may be saturated (e.g., cyclohexyl) or unsaturated (e.g., cyclohexenyl) provided that they are not aromatic. More specifically, alicyclic groups contain three or more, from 3 to 24, from 3 to 12, or from 6 to 12 ring carbon atoms. The alicyclic group may be a monocyclic, bicyclic, or tricyclic ring system, and the rings may, for example, be fused or linked by a single bond or a linking group such as a methylene group or another alkylene group. The alicyclic group may be substituted (monosubstituted or polysubstituted) or unsubstituted. In one embodiment, the alicyclyl group is a 6- to 12-membered ring system that consists of carbon atoms and optionally contains one or two double bonds.

[0033] The term "cycloalkyl" refers to a saturated monocyclic or polycyclic alkyl group which may be substituted (monosubstituted or polysubstituted) or unsubstituted. The cycloalkyl group has from 3 to 24, preferably from 3 to 16, more preferably from 3 to 14, even more preferably from 3 to 12, but even more preferably 3, 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms. The cycloalkyl group is linked to the rest of the molecule by a single bond, cycloalkyl groups include, for example and without limitation, cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, methyl cyclohexyl, dimethyl cyclohexyl, octahydroindene, decahydronaphthalene, dodecahydrophenene and the like.

[0034] The term "cycloalkenyl" refers to a non-aromatic monocyclic or polycyclic alkenyl group that may be substituted (monosubstituted or polysubstituted) or unsubstituted. The cycloalkenyl group has from 5 to 24, preferably from 5 to 16, more preferably from 5 to 14, even more preferably from 5 to 12, but even more preferably 5 or 6 carbon atoms. The cycloalkenyl group is linked to the rest of the molecule by a single bond. Preferably, the cycloalkenyl group contains 1, 2 or 3 carbon-carbon double bonds. If more than one carbon-carbon double bond is present, the double bonds may be conjugated or unconjugated. Cycloalkenyl groups include, for example and without limitation, cyclopent-1-en-1-yl and the like.

[0035] The term "cycloalkynyl" refers to a non-aromatic monocyclic or polycyclic alkynyl group which may be substituted (monosubstituted or polysubstituted) or unsubstituted. The cycloalkynyl group has from 8 to 24, preferably from 8 to 16, more preferably from 8 to 14, even more preferably from 8 to 12, but even more preferably 8 or 9 carbon atoms and is linked to the rest of the molecule by a single bond. Preferably, the cycloalkynyl group contains 1, 2 or 3 carbon-carbon triple bonds, conjugated or unconjugated. Cycloalkynyl groups include, for example and without limitation, cyclooct-2-yn-l-yl and the like. Cycloalkynyl groups may also contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds, including, for example and without limitation, cyclooct-4-en-2-ynyl and the like.

[0036] As used herein, the term "heterocyclyl" or "heterocyclic" means a 3- to 10-membered hydrocarbon ring system, wherein one or more of the atoms of the ring or rings is a heteroatom (i.e., is not a carbon atom). Thus, "heterocyclyl" or "heterocyclic" means a cyclic group in which the ring atoms consist of carbon and one or more heteroatoms. To satisfy the valency, the heteroatom may be bonded to H or substituent groups. Preferably, 1, 2, or 3 of the ring carbon atoms are heteroatoms. Each heteroatom may be independently selected from the group consisting of O, N, S, P, and B, or the group consisting of O, N, and S. The heterocyclyl group may be substituted (monosubstituted or polysubstituted) or unsubstituted. The heterocyclyl group may be a monocyclic, bicyclic, or tricyclic ring system, and the rings may, for example, be fused or linked by a single bond or a linking group such as a methylene or other alkylene group.The nitrogen, carbon, or sulfur atoms in the heterocyclyl radical may optionally be oxidized, and the nitrogen atom may optionally be quaternized. The heterocyclyl radical may be unsaturated, or partially or fully saturated. The heterocyclyl radical may be aliphatic or aromatic. In one embodiment, the heterocyclyl is aliphatic (also known as heteroalicyclyl) and is a 3- to 10-membered ring system where the atoms of the ring(s) consist of carbon atoms and 1 to 4, or 1, 2, or 3 heteroatoms. In one embodiment, the heterocyclyl group is a 6- to 10-membered ring system where the atoms of the ring(s) consist of carbon atoms and 1 to 4 heteroatoms and where the ring system optionally contains one or two double bonds.In one embodiment, the heterocyclyl is aromatic (also known as heteroaryl) and is a 6- to 10-membered ring system where the atoms of the ring or rings consist of carbon atoms and 1 to 4, or 1, 2, or 3 heteroatoms. The term heterocyclyl is most preferred to denote a 5- or 6-membered ring. Examples of saturated heteroalicyclyl groups are dioxane, piperidine, piperazine, pyrrolidine, morpholine, and thiomorpholine. Examples of aromatic heterocyclyl groups are pyridine, pyrrole, furan, thiophene, benzofuran, imidazoline, quinoline, pyridazine, and naphthyridine.

[0037] The term "aryl group" means an aromatic group that has from 6 to 30, preferably from 6 to 18, more preferably between 6 and 10, but even more preferably 6 or 10 carbon atoms. The aryl group may comprise 1, 2, 3 or 4 aromatic rings, which may be linked by a carbon-carbon bond or fused and which includes, for example and without limitation, phenyl, naphthyl, diphenyl, indenyl, phenanthryl or antranyl, among others. The aryl group may be substituted (monosubstituted or polysubstituted) or unsubstituted.

[0038] The expression "aralkyl group" means an alkyl group substituted by an aromatic group, comprising from 7 to 24 carbon atoms and including, for example and without limited to, -(CH2)i_6-phenyl, -(CH2)i_6-(l-naphthyl), -(CH2)i_6-(2-naphthyl), -(CH2)i_6 -CH(phenyl)2and the like.

[0039] The term "heteroarylalkyl" means an alkyl group substituted with a heteroaryl group (also known as aromatic heterocyclic) as defined above, the alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and the heteroaryl group having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms and from 1 to 3 heteroatoms. Heteroarylalkyl groups include, for example and without limitation, -(CH2)i.6 -imidazolyl, -(CH2)i_6-triazolyl, -(CH2)i_6-thienyl, -(CH2)i_6-furyl, -(CH2)i.6 pyrrolidinyl and the like.

[0040] As understood in this technical field, there may be some degree of substitution of the aforementioned groups. In particular, there may be substitution in any of the groups identified above when explicitly indicated. The substituted groups (radicals) mentioned above are groups (or radicals) which are substituted in one or more available positions by one or more substituents. Preferably, the substitution is in the 1-, 2- or 3-position, more preferably in the 1- or 2-position, but even more preferably in the 1-position.Suitable substituents include, for example, but are not limited to: C1-C4 alkyl; hydroxyl; C1-C4 alkoxyl; amino; C1-C4 amino alkyl; C1-C4 carbonyloxyl; C1-C4 oxycarbonyl; halogen such as fluoride, chlorine, bromine and iodine; cyano; nitro; azide; C1-C4 alkylsulfonyl; thiol; C1-C4 alkylthio; aryloxy such as phenoxyl; -NRb(C=NRb)NRbRc wherein Rb and Rc are independently selected from H, C1-C4 alkyl, C2-C4 alkenyl, alkynyl, C3-C10 cycloalkyl, C6-C18 aryl, C7-C17 aralkyl, 3- to 10-membered heterocyclyl or an amino protecting group.

[0041] Preferably, in formula (I), R 1 is selected from H, a polyethylene glycol-derived polymer with a molecular weight of 200 to 35,000 Daltons, and R 5 -CO-, wherein R 5 is selected from C 1 -C 24 alkyl, C 2 -C 24 alkenyl, C 2 -C 24 alkynyl, C 3 -C 24 cycloalkyl, C 5 -C 24 cycloalkenyl, C 8 -C 24 cycloalkynyl, C 6 -C 30 aryl, C 7 -C 24 aralkyl, a 3- to 10-membered heterocyclyl ring, and heteroarylalkyl containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, wherein the alkyl group has 1 to 6 carbon atoms. In one embodiment, R 1 is selected from H and R 5 -CO-, wherein R 5 is selected from C 1 -C 18 alkyl, C 2 -C 24 alkenyl, C 3 -C 24 cycloalkyl or selected from C 1 -C 16 alkyl, C 2 -C 18 alkenyl, C 3 -C 7 cycloalkyl.The R5-CO- group includes alkanoyl groups such as acetyl (CH3-CO-), which is abbreviated herein as "Ac-"), myristoyl (CH3-(CH2)12-CO-, which is abbreviated herein as "Myr-") and palmitoyl (CH3-(CH2)14-CO-, which is abbreviated herein as "Palm-"). In one embodiment, R1 is selected from H and acetyl, tert-butanoyl, prenyl, . hexanoyl, 2-methylhexanoyl, cyclohexane carboxyl, octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, oleoyl and linoleoyl. In one embodiment, R1 is selected from H and R5-CO-, wherein R5 is selected from C1-C16 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl. In one embodiment, R1 is selected from H, acetyl, myristoyl or palmitoyl.

[0042] Preferably in formula (I), R2 is selected from -NR3R4, -OR3, and -SR3, wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from H, a polymer derived from polyethylene glycol, C1-C24 alkyl, C2-C24 alkenyl, C2-C24 alkynyl, C3-C24 cycloalkyl, C5-C24 cycloalkenyl, C8-C24 cycloalkynyl, C6-C30 aryl, C7-C24 aralkyl, a 3- to 10-membered heterocyclyl ring, and heteroarylalkyl containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms and from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, wherein the alkyl group has from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Optionally, R3 and R4 may be joined by a saturated or unsaturated carbon-carbon bond, forming a ring with the nitrogen atom. In one embodiment, R2 is -NR3R4 or -OR3. In one embodiment, R3 and R4 are independently selected from H, a polyethylene glycol-derived polymer with a molecular weight between 200 and 35,000 Daltons, methyl, ethyl, hexyl, dodecyl, and hexadecyl.In one embodiment, R3 and R4 are independently selected from H and C1-C16 alkyl. In one embodiment, R3 is H and R4 is selected from H and C1-C16 alkyl, including methyl, ethyl, hexyl, dodecyl, and hexadecyl. In accordance with one embodiment, R2 is selected from -NR3R4 and -OR3 wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from H and C1-C16 alkyl. In one embodiment, R2 is selected from -OH, -NH2, and -NH4 wherein R4 is C1-C16 alkyl. R4 may be C6 alkyl, i.e., -C6Hn, or C16 alkyl, i.e., -C16H33. .

[0043] More preferably, R1 is selected from H and R5-CO-, wherein R5 is selected from C1-C18 alkyl, C2-C24 alkenyl, C3-C24 cycloalkyl; and R2 is -NR3R4 or -OR3 wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from H and C1-C16 alkyl. In an exemplary embodiment, R3 is H and R4 is selected from H and C1-C16 alkyl; for example, R2 is selected from -OH, -NH2 and -NHR4 wherein R4 is C1-C16 alkyl-

[0044] Even more preferably, R is selected from H and R5-CO-, wherein R5 is selected from C1-C16 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl; and R2 is -NR3R4 or -OR3 wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from H and C1-C16 alkyl. In an exemplary embodiment, R3 is H and R4 is selected from H and C1-C16 alkyl; for example, R2 is selected from the group consisting of -OH, -NH2 and -NHR4 wherein R4 is C1-C16 alkyl.

[0045] Even more preferably, Ri is chosen from H and acetyl, tert-butanoyl, prenyl, hexanoyl, 2-methylhexanoyl, cyclohexane carboxyl, octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, oleoyl and linoleoyl; and R2 is -NR3R4 or -OR3 wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from H and C1-C16 alkyl. In an exemplary embodiment, R3 is H and R4 is selected from H and C1-C16 alkyl; for example, R2 is selected from -OH, -NH2 and -NHR4 where R4 is C1-C16 alkyl 16-

[0046] Even more preferably, R 1 is selected from H, acetyl, myristoyl or palmitoyl; and R 2 is -NR 3 R 4 or -OR 3 wherein R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from H and C 1 -C 16 alkyl. In an exemplary embodiment, R 3 is H and R 4 is selected from H and C 1 -C 16 alkyl; for example, R 2 is selected from the group consisting of -OH, -NH 2 and -NHR wherein R is C 1 -C 16 alkyl.

[0047] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a hexapeptide with the sequence Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2, which is also called acetyl hexapeptide-8.

[0048] Advantageously, the hexapeptide is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of dry matter ranging from 0.1 ppm to 100,000 ppm, preferably from 0.1 ppm to 10,000 ppm, more preferably from 1 ppm to 1,000 ppm, even more preferably from 2 ppm to 500 ppm, most preferably from 5 ppm to 50 ppm relative to the total weight of the composition. Dipeptides

[0049] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one dipeptide.

[0050] For the purposes of the present invention, preferably, the dipeptide is chosen from those of formula (II):

[0051] in which • n represents 0, 1 or 2, • R1 and R4, independently of each other, represent H, C1-C6 alkyl optionally substituted, • R2 represents H or optionally substituted C1-C6 alkyl, • R3 represents C1-C12 alkoxy, C1-C12 alkylamino, C1-C6 aryl -optionally substituted alkylamino, optionally substituted heteroaryl-Ci-C6-alkylamino, optionally substituted aryl-Ci-C6-alkoxy or optionally substituted heteroaryl-Ci-C6-alkoxy and • R6 represents H or amino,

[0052] in the form of racemates or pure enantiomers, as well as their salts.

[0053] Substituents of the optionally substituted alkyl residues and groups containing these residues are, for example, halogen, amino, guanidino, hydroxy, C1-C6 alkoxy, C1-C6 alkylthio, carboxy, carbamoyl, optionally substituted phenyl, optionally substituted benzyl, imidazolylmethyl, indolylmethyl and cyano.

[0054] Substituents of the optionally substituted aryl and heteroaryl groups are, for example, halogen, C1-C6 alkyl, hydroxy, C1-C6 alkoxy, C1-C6 alkoxycarbonyl, CN, amino, C1-C6 alkylamino, di-C1-C6-alkylamino, aminocarbonyl, C1-C6 alkylaminocarbonyl, di-C1-C6-alkylaminocarbonyl, C1-C6 alkylthio, C1-C6 alkylsulfoxyl, C1-C6 alkylsulfonyl, optionally substituted benzyl, optionally substituted phenyl, optionally substituted phenoxy or optionally substituted phenyl arbony, whereby the aforementioned aromatic rings may be substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different substituents selected from the group consisting of halogen, cyano, C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 alkoxy, hydroxy, amino, C1-C6 alkylamino, di-C1-C6-alkylamino and C1-C6 alkoxycarbonyl 6-

[0055] By "halogen" is meant fluorine, chlorine, bromine and iodine, with fluorine and chlorine being preferred.

[0056] Preferably in formula (II), R1 represents H, R2 represents H or methyl, R3 represents phenyl-C1-C6-alkylamino and n represents 0 or 1, R4 represents H or C1-C4 alkyl, R6 represents H or amino.

[0057] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a dipeptide with the sequence H-Beta-Ala-Pro-Dab-NH-Bzl, which is also called dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate.

[0058] Advantageously, the dipeptide is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5 ppm to 200,000 ppm, preferably from 0.5 ppm to 50,000 ppm, preferably from 5 ppm to 5,000 ppm, more preferably from 10 ppm to 1,000 ppm, most preferably from 25 ppm to 100 ppm, relative to the total weight of the composition. Extract of Laminaria digitata

[0059] The composition of the present invention comprises Laminaria digitata extract.

[0060] Laminaria digitata is a brown alga rich in iodine and sodium, dark brown in color and large in size. It is found in cold seas and oceans, particularly in the North Sea and the North Atlantic. It is found in abundance along the coasts of Great Britain and Ireland, Iceland, Russia and Brittany.

[0061] The extract of Laminaria digitata is preferably obtained by leaching with water, filtration and concentration by reverse osmosis.

[0062] As an example of commercial products of Laminaria digitata extract, we can cite those sold under the name PHYCOJUVENINE DIG ALG147 by the company CODIF.

[0063] Advantageously, the Laminaria digitata extract is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% by weight to 0.1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.002% by weight to 0.05% by weight, most preferably from 0.005% by weight to 0.02% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyhydroxy acids

[0064] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyhydroxy acid.

[0065] The term "polyhydroxy acid" herein refers to an organic compound which has at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxy groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and a single carboxyl group is more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is also not limited, but 2 to 10 are preferable, and 2 to 6 are more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 are preferable, and 3 to 8 are more preferable.

[0066] The above organic compound may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid may be selected from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids and aromatic polyhydroxy acids. It is preferable that the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid is selected from sugar acids.

[0067] Examples of the polyhydroxy acid include dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0068] It is preferable that the polyhydroxy acid is in the form of a lactone. The lactone ring of the polyhydroxy acid in the form of a lactone may be saturated. Examples of the polyhydroxy acid include gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from lactones with 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups.

[0070] Advantageously, the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from lactones with 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0071] It is more preferable that the polyhydroxy acid is gluconolactone, which has the following structure.

[0072] Advantageously, the protein is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 3% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Nicotinamide and / or derivatives thereof

[0073] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises nicotinamide and / or one of its derivatives.

[0074] Nicotinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a compound with the following formula:

[0075] Nicotinamide derivatives that may be cited include, for example, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl alcohol, nicotinuric acid, nicotinyl hydroxamic acid, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from nicotinamide by substitution of the H of -CONH2, products resulting from a reaction with carboxylic acids and amino acids, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.

[0076] The following derivatives may also be mentioned: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.

[0077] Advantageously, nicotinamide and / or one of its derivatives is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0078] The composition of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.

[0079] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises water.

[0080] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 99.99% by weight, preferably from 70% by weight to 99.99% by weight, more preferably from 80% by weight to 99.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] Optionally, the aqueous phase comprises a water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature to 25°C) selected from monoalcohols, glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.

[0082] Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60% by weight to 99.99% by weight, preferably from 70% by weight to 99.99% by weight, more preferably from 80% by weight to 99.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0083] The composition of the present invention may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient in addition to the cosmetic active ingredients as defined above.

[0084] The person skilled in the art can adjust the type and quantity of the additional cosmetic active ingredients depending on the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0085] The composition of the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents, preservatives and bactericides, surfactants, thickeners, pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] The person skilled in the art can choose the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to negatively impact the end use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0087] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: i. from 2 ppm to 500 ppm of acetyl hexapeptide-8; ii. from 10 ppm to 1000 ppm of dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate; iii. from 0.002% by weight to 0.05% by weight of Laminaria digitata extract; iv. from 2% by weight to 10% by weight of gluconolactone; and v. optionally, from 2% by weight to 10% by weight of nicotinamide.

[0088] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: i. from 5 ppm to 50 ppm of acetyl hexapeptide-8; ii. from 25 ppm to 100 ppm of dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate; iii. from 0.005% by weight to 0.02% by weight of Laminaria digitata extract; iv. from 3% by weight to 8% by weight of gluconolactone; and v. optionally, from 3% by weight to 8% by weight of nicotinamide. Dosage form and process

[0089] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an emulsion, a cream, a lotion or a hydrogel, and can be used as a toner, a lotion, a light cream, a nourishing cream, a night mask or an eye cream.

[0090] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care of keratinous materials. In particular, the composition of the present invention can provide benefits on skin radiance, forehead wrinkles, small furrows on the nasolabial area and ptosis of the lower part of the face.

[0091] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0092] In certain embodiments, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic anti-aging method for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention on keratinous materials.

[0093] In particular, the keratinous material is the skin, in particular the skin of the face.

[0094] In a third aspect, the present invention provides a use of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention for providing an anti-aging effect on keratinous materials.

[0095] In particular, the keratinous material is the skin, in particular the skin of the face. EXAMPLES

[0096] The following examples are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0097] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0098] [Table 1]

[0099] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier Acetyl hexapeptide-8 ARGIRELINE AMPLIFIED P EPTIDE SOLUTION LIPOTEC Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate SYN-AKE DSM NUTRITIONA L PRODUCTS Gluconolactone GLUCONO-DELTA-LACTO NE F5010 PERSONAL CAR JUNGBUNZLAUER Niacinamide NIACINAMIDE PC (CODE 5 016013) DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS Laminaria digitata extract PHYCOJUVENINE DIG ALG 147 CODIF

[0100] Inventive Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4

[0101] Compositions of Inventive Examples (EI) 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples (CE) 1 to 4 were prepared on the basis of the amounts of ingredients given in Table 2. The amounts are given by weight of each active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] [Table 2]

[0103] [Tables2] Components El. 1 EL 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 EC. 4 Acetyl hexapeptide-8 (ppm) 10 10 10 10 10 10 Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl b enzylamide diacetate (ppm) 50 50 50 50 50 50 Laminaria digitata extract (%) 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 - - Nicotinamide (%) 5 - 5 - 5 - Gluconolactone (%) 5 5 - - - 5 Water (%) QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0104] The compositions of Inventive Examples 1 and 2 represent compositions according to the present invention.

[0105] The compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 do not comprise at least one polyhydroxy acid.

[0106] The composition of Comparative Example 3 does not comprise Laminaria digitata extract and at least one polyhydroxy acid.

[0107] The composition of Comparative Example 4 does not include Laminaria digitata extract.

[0108] Preparation process:

[0109] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows: adding acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, Laminaria digitata extract (if any), nicotinamide (if any) and gluconolactone (if any) slowly into water with stirring at room temperature to obtain a homogeneous mixture. Assessment

[0110] The effect of the compositions prepared above on the production of collagen IV was tested as follows. 1. cell inoculation:

[0111] The fibroblasts were revived, and when the implantation rate reached approximately 60%, the cells were seeded into 6-well plates and cultured overnight in an incubator with CO2 (37°C, 5% CO2). 1. Preparation of the solution:

[0112] The working solutions were prepared according to the test groups listed in Table 3.

[0113] [Table 3]

[0114] [T ableaux3 ] Groups Sample Test Indicator Methods Blank control (BC) / Collagen IV + Immune fluorescence Negative control (NC) / Positive control (PC) VC +VE Test samples Compositions of Inventive Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4

[0115]

[0116]

[0117]

[0118]

[0119]

[0120]

[0121] 1. Administration: The groups were administered according to Table 3. Culture medium was added to each well for the blank control group and the negative control group. The same volume of culture medium containing VE and VC was added to each well for the positive control group. The same volume of culture solution containing the corresponding concentration of active ingredients in the culture medium was added to each well for the test sample groups. 1. UVA irradiation: All groups except the blank control group were subjected to UVA irradiation. After irradiation, they were placed in an incubator with CO2 (37°C, 5% CO2) for further culture. 2. Immunofluorescence detection and gene expression detection were performed. The improvement rate and the upregulation rate were calculated according to the following equations: Improvement rate (%) = (test group-NC group) / NC group *100% Statistical analysis was conducted using the t-test method; compared with the BC group, significance is represented by #, p-value <0.05 is represented by #, p-value <0.01 is represented by # #; compared with the NC group, significance is represented by *, p-value <0.05 is represented by *, and p-value <0.01 is represented by * *. PCR data of collagen IV were summarized in Table 4. [Table 4] [Tables 4] Mean SD P-value Improvement rate (%) BC 1.00 0.10 / / NC 0.34 0.02 0.000## / PC 0.95 0.05 0.000** 179.41 Composition of El. 1 1.12 0.04 0.000** 229.41 Composition of El.2 1.07 0.13 0.001** 214.71 Composition of EC.l 0.86 0.08 0.000** 152.94 Composition of EC.2 0.83 0.03 0.000** 144.12 Composition of EC.3 0.79 0.05 0.000** 132.35 Composition of EC.4 0.89 0.03 0.000** 161.76

[0122] It can be seen from Table 4 that the composition of Inventive Example 1 exhibits a better stimulating effect on the production of collagen IV compared to the compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 3.

[0123] It can also be seen from Table 4 that the composition of Inventive Example 2 exhibits a better stimulating effect on the production of collagen IV compared to the compositions of Comparative Examples 2 and 4.

Claims

Claims

1. A composition comprising: (i) at least one hexapeptide; (ii) at least one dipeptide; (iii) Laminaria digitata extract; and (iv) at least one polyhydroxy acid.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hexapeptide is selected from those of formula (I): Ri-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-R2(I) wherein Ri is selected from H, a polymer derived from polyethylene glycol, a non-cyclic aliphatic group, alicyclyl, heterocyclyl, heteroarylalkyl, aryl, aralkyl and R5-CO-, wherein R5 is selected from H, a non-cyclic aliphatic group, alicyclyl, aryl, aralkyl, heterocyclyl and heteroarylalkyl; R2 is selected from the group consisting of -NR3R4, -OR3, -SR3, wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from H, a polymer derived from polyethylene glycol, a non-cyclic aliphatic group, alicyclyl, heterocyclyl, heteroarylalkyl, aryl and aralkyl; and Ri and R2 are not amino acids.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, in which the hexapeptide is present in an amount of dry matter ranging from 0.1 ppm to 100,000 ppm, preferably from 0.1 ppm to 10,000 ppm, more preferably from 1 ppm to 1,000 ppm, even more preferably from 2 ppm to 500 ppm, most preferably from 5 ppm to 50 ppm relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the dipeptide is chosen from those of formula (II): è n H (II) H ff* RL ï R" ZN / f C 0 A.........7 in which - n represents 0, 1 or 2, - R1 and R4, independently of each other, represent H, optionally substituted C1-C6 alkyl, - R2 represents H or optionally substituted C1-C6 alkyl, - R3 represents C1-C12 alkoxy, C1-C12 alkylamino, optionally substituted aryl-C1-C6 -alkylamino, optionally substituted heteroaryl-C1-C6-alkylamino, optionally substituted aryl-C1-C6-alkoxy or optionally substituted heteroaryl-C1-C6-alkoxy and - R6 represents H or amino, in the form of racemates or pure enantiomers, as well as their salts.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids and aromatic polyhydroxy acids, preferably chosen from lactones with 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and 3 to 8 carbon atoms, more preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is gluconolactone.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in which the polyhydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably 3% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising nicotinamide and / or a derivative thereof, wherein the nicotinamide derivative is selected from 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol, niaprazine, methyl nicotinate, sodium nicotinate and a mixture thereof; preferably, said nicotinamide and / or one of its derivatives is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight. weight, even more preferably from 3% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) from 5 ppm to 50 ppm of acetyl hexapeptide-8; (ii) from 25 ppm to 100 ppm of dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate; (iii) from 0.005% by weight to 0.02% by weight of Laminaria digitata extract; (iv) from 3% by weight to 8% by weight of gluconolactone; and (v) optionally, from 3% by weight to 8% by weight of nicotinamide.

9. Non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratinous materials.

10. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for providing an anti-aging effect to keratinous materials.