Compact powder based on at least two lamellar fillers, perlite, a spherical filler, non-volatile oils, an amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer and a particulate colorant

Abstract

Title: Compact powder based on at least two lamellar fillers, perlite, a spherical filler, non-volatile oils, an amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer and a particulate colorant The present invention relates to a compact powder obtained by the wet process ("Wet Process") containing at least:A) an oily phase in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said oily phase comprising a) at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil andB) a pulverulent phase in an amount of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said pulverulent phase comprising at least:i) at least two lamellar fillers of different nature; andii) perlite; andii) at least one spherical filler chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof;andiii) at least one particulate coloring agent; andC) at least one amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer; andD) at least one particulate coloring matter;said composition not containing talc particles, silicone compounds, or microplastic particles;

Description

Title of the invention: Compact powder based on at least two lamellar fillers, perlite, a spherical filler, non-volatile oils, an amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer and a particulate colorant

[0001] The present invention relates to a solid composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, said compact powder being prepared by a wet process.

[0002] Skin care and / or makeup compositions are generally used to give an attractive color to the skin, such as the face, but also to mask skin imperfections, such as redness, marks, fine lines and wrinkles.

[0003] The above-mentioned powders mainly have the function of providing color, mattness and even, for those more particularly intended for facial skin, of improving the hold of the foundation or, if used alone, to provide coverage (foundation powder, eye shadow, blush). These galenic forms are particularly appreciated by users due to their lightness, softness and non-sticky or greasy appearance to the touch.

[0004] Generally speaking, these compositions combine a generally predominant powdery phase with a binding phase most often represented by a liquid fatty phase. The powdery phase is essentially formed of fillers combined with pigments, the quantity of the latter being modulated to provide the desired makeup effect, generally colored.

[0005] To obtain a composition in compacted solid form, it is known from the prior art to use compacted makeup powders formed by a mixture of powders with a fatty binder and shaped for example by compression.

[0006] However, these compact powders have the particular disadvantage of being fragile. Thus, when the percentage of pigments increases within the product, its manufacture and compaction become complicated or even impossible to carry out on an industrial level given the quality and productivity requirements. In addition, significant quantities of powder phase in the compact powder do not give satisfactory sensory properties when the powder is removed from its packaging and / or when it is applied to the surface of the skin to be made up. It is also difficult for the formulator to obtain good hold of the product on the skin. To overcome these drawbacks, if the quantity of fatty binder is increased, this composition will tend to wax, that is to say, to harden during use to the point of preventing removal.

[0007] Among the qualities sought for compact makeup powders, we can cite: - good cohesion and homogenization of the composition, - good shock resistance, - a good texture, - appropriate hardness, - good adhesion to the skin, - good sampling regardless of the applicator (in terms of sufficient quantity of product), - comfort on application without drying effect on the skin, - good powder holding properties, - good sensory properties at the time of sampling, - good sensory properties when applying the product.

[0008] It is known from the prior art to manufacture such compositions to use volatile organic solvents (isododecane, isopropanol) implemented in a wet preparation process called "WET PROCESS", to inject one or more powder(s) of a given shade into a respective cup. These solvents allow the fluidification of the powder and the formation of a mud called "slurry" and its shaping in a cup then evaporate.

[0009] Compact powders obtained by this wet process technique have already been proposed in patent EP2928448B1; said powders comprising: - an oily phase greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - a powdery phase greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising at least one spherical filler and at least one lamellar filler; the spherical filler(s) and the lamellar filler(s) being present at a respective total weight content such that the weight ratio of the spherical filler(s) to the lamellar filler(s) is greater than or equal to 0.01, preferably between 0.02 and 15.

[0010] Patent application EP3595620 also proposed a compact powder containing at least: - an oily phase in an amount of at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said oily phase comprising at least one non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oil; and - a powdery phase in an amount of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said powdery phase comprising at least mica particles; and - at least one amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer; said composition not containing any untreated silicone talc particle and being capable of being obtained by a wet preparation process comprising at least the following steps: (i) mixing the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, the powder phase and at least one volatile solvent to form a slurry; and (ii) injecting the slurry into a container (bucket or mold) and shaping it by compacting, in particular pressing and / or suction to obtain the composition in powder form.

[0011] These compact powders obtained by wet processing comprise a high quantity of lamellar particles such as nacres and talc in order to maintain good injectability in the manufacturing process and, after evaporation of the volatile solvent, to obtain satisfactory product deposition, cohesion and impact resistance. The presence of nacres and talc in high quantities tends to give compact powders having shiny or satin effects. The applicant noted during its research that the reduction of nacres and talc in these compact powders to obtain mattness led to problems of cracks, lack of powder removal, hardness without the possibility of depositing the product, lack of comfort and lack of homogeneity.

[0012] These same compact powders also contain organic fillers and most often consist of synthetic polymer particles called microplastics which also provide comfort, glide and uniformity to the makeup. These are not biodegradable.

[0013] According to the definition of the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), "microplastic filler" means a synthetic microparticle in solid form composed of polymer, the size of which is less than 5 mm, insoluble and non-biodegradable. Microplastic fillers are generally dry and soft to the touch.

[0014] The compact powders obtained by wet processing known from the prior art also generally comprise silicone compounds such as phenylated or non-phenylated silicone oils, silicone elastomers to provide comfort during application, facilitate spreading or provide hold. These silicone compounds are however not biodegradable.

[0015] The compact powders obtained by wet processing known from the prior art comprising talc, silicone compounds and / or microplastic particles do not have sufficient transparency for a natural-looking makeup, and tend to produce a gray (“ashy”) effect on the skin after application.

[0016] There remains a need to find new homogeneous, transparent compact powders obtained by wet process, without talc, without silicone compound and without microplastic, having both good injectability in the wet manufacturing process, and after evaporation of the volatile solvent, good product deposition, good cohesion, good impact resistance, good sliding effect, good mattness, a significantly reduced gray effect and good sensoriality.

[0017] The applicant unexpectedly discovered that these objectives could be achieved with a solid composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least: A) an oily phase in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said oily phase comprising a) at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and b) at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and B) a powdery phase in an amount of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said powdery phase comprising: (i) at least two lamellar charges of different nature; and (ii) perlite; and (iii) at least one spherical filler chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof; and (iii) at least one particulate coloring agent; and C) at least one amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer; and D) at least one particulate coloring matter; said composition not containing talc particles, silicone compounds or microplastic particles; said composition being capable of being obtained by a wet preparation process comprising at least the following steps: 1) mixing the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, the powder phase and at least one volatile solvent to form a slurry; and the mud is injected into a container and shaped by compaction, in particular pressing and / or suction to obtain the composition in the form of a compact powder.

[0018] This discovery is the basis of the invention.

[0019] Objects of the invention

[0020] Thus, a first object of the present invention is a solid composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least: A) an oily phase in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said oily phase comprising a) at least one oil polar non-volatile hydrocarbon and at least one non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and B) a powdery phase in an amount of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said powdery phase comprising at least: i) at least two lamellar fillers of different nature; and ii) perlite; and (ii) at least one spherical filler chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof; and (iii) at least one particulate coloring agent; and C) at least one amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer; and D) at least one particulate coloring matter; said composition not containing talc particles, silicone compounds or microplastic particles; said composition being capable of being obtained by a wet preparation process comprising at least the following steps: 1) the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, the powder phase and at least one volatile solvent are mixed to form a slurry; and the slurry is injected into a container and shaped by compaction, in particular pressing and / or suction to obtain the composition in the form of a compact powder.

[0021] A second subject of the present invention is a process for coating keratin materials, in particular the skin, and more particularly a process for making up and / or caring for said keratin materials, comprising the application thereto of the composition as defined above.

[0022] Definitions

[0023] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to mean in particular the skin (face, cheeks, eyelids).

[0024] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0025] By "fillers", for the purposes of the present invention, it is necessary to understand the colorless or white, solid particles of all forms, of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0026] By "talc particle" is meant particles of hydroxylated magnesium silicate of molecular formula Mg3Si4Oio(OH)2called talc and belonging to the chemical family of phyllosilicates. Said talc particle may be untreated or surface-treated with namely uncoated or surface coated such as for example a surface treatment agent chosen from silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0027] By "composition not containing talc particles" is meant any composition containing less than 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even less than 0.5% by weight, or even less than 0.1% by weight or even free of talc particles.

[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone compound” means any organic molecule comprising in its structure at least one Si-O group, in particular organosiloxane.

[0029] By "composition not containing a silicone compound" is meant any composition containing less than 1.0% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight, or even less than 0.1% by weight of silicone compound relative to the total weight of the composition relative to the total weight of the composition or even free of silicone compound.

[0030] By "composition not containing microplastic particles" is meant any composition containing less than 1.0% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight, or even less than 0.1% by weight of microplastic particles relative to the total weight of the composition relative to the total weight of the composition or even free of microplastic particles.

[0031] For the purposes of the present invention, the following terms are intended to denote: - by "solid", the state of the composition at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), i.e. a composition of high consistency, which retains its shape during storage. In contrast to so-called fluid compositions, it does not flow under its own weight. It is advantageously characterized by a hardness as defined below. - by "compact powder", a mass of product whose cohesion is ensured at least in part by compacting or preferably pressing during manufacturing. In particular, by carrying out a measurement using a TA.XT.plus Texture Analyser® texturometer sold by the company Stable Micro Systems, the compact powder according to the invention can advantageously have a pressure resistance of between 0.1 and 1 kg, in particular between 0.2 and 0.8 kg, brought back to the surface of the mobile used (in this case 7.07 mm2). The measurement of this resistance is carried out by moving a flat-ended cylindrical mobile SMS P / 3 in contact with the powder, over a distance of 2 mm and at a speed of 0.5 mm / second; more generally, this powder can be obtained by compacting, or preferably by pressing.

[0032] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a dry extract content greater than or equal to 95%, better still 98%, or even equal to 100%.

[0033] For the purposes of the present invention, “dry extract content” means the content of non-volatile matter.

[0034] The quantity of dry extract (abbreviated ES) of a composition according to the invention is measured using a commercial halogen desiccator “HALOGEN MOISTURE ANALYZER HR 73®” from Mettler TOLEDO. The measurement is based on the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating and therefore represents the percentage of residual matter once the water and volatile matter have evaporated. This technique is fully described in the documentation for the device provided by Mettler TOLEDO.

[0035] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0036] Approximately 2 g of the composition, hereinafter the sample, are spread on a metal dish which is introduced into the halogen desiccator mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 105°C until a constant weight is obtained. The Wet Mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the Dry Mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance.

[0037] The experimental error related to the measurement is of the order of plus or minus 2%. The dry extract content is calculated as follows: Dry Extract Content (expressed in % by weight) = 100 x (Dry Mass / Wet Mass). Residual volatile solvent

[0038] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises less than 0.5% by weight of residual volatile solvent(s) resulting from the wet preparation process, better still less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] The volatile solvents may be chosen from water, C2-C4 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethers such as dicaprylyl ether and volatile hydrocarbon oils such as C8-C16 isoparaffins such as isododecane. Preferably, isoparaffins such as isododecane will be used.

[0040] Oily phase

[0041] The composition of the invention comprises an oily phase. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (20-25°C). It is organic and immiscible in water.

[0042] The oily phase (or fatty phase) of the compositions according to the invention comprises a) at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and b) at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and optionally c) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil as well as ingredients soluble or miscible in said oils.

[0043] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature. (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure. These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0044] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

[0045] By "non-polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil containing exclusively hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0046] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions.

[0047] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0048] The oily phase is present in the composition of the invention in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight, preferably ranging from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. a. Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0049] As an example of a polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: - triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular of which the fatty acids may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oils, sunflower oils, grape seed oils, sesame (820.6 g / mol), corn oils, apricot oils, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil; shea oil; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate;lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate; ; - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this respect, we may notably mention the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butane diol Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®, - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being able to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; - linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, - aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate, - esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer dicarboxylic acid, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference; - fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol; - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being able to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; and - and their mixtures.

[0050] According to a preferred form, the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name mination DUB B1215® sold by the company STARINERIES DUBOIS, the product with the trade name ERCAREL AB / TO® sold by the company ERCA or the product sold under the trade name FINSOLV TN® by the company INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS.

[0051] According to a particular form, the polar non-volatile oil or oils is (are) present in the composition of the invention in an amount less than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. a. Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oils

[0052] As an example of a non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene; - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not such as Parleam, squalane.

[0053] According to a preferred form, the non-volatile, apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) is (are) chosen from squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and their mixtures.

[0054] According to a preferred form, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil or oils is (are) present in an amount less than or equal to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a. Additional volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0055] The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise c) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil in an amount less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0057] In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) present in the composition of the invention are residual and originate from the wet process manufacturing process of the composition.

[0058] As an example of volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permetyls®, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the company SHELL, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE10 2008 012 457.

[0059] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises isododecane in an amount less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] Powdery phase

[0061] The powdery phase comprises at least: i) at least two lamellar fillers of different nature ii) perlite; and iii) at least one spherical filler chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers of natural origin; and (iii) at least one particulate coloring agent.

[0062] A solid composition according to the invention has a pulverulent phase content greater than or equal to 40% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 50 to 85% by weight, better still from 60 to 80% by weight, relative to its total weight of the composition.

[0063] Lamellar charges

[0064] The powdery phase comprises i) at least two lamellar fillers of different nature.

[0065] The term "lamellar filler" or "platelet filler" means a filler formed of particles of parallelepipedal (rectangular or square surface), discoidal (circular surface) or ellipsoidal (oval surface) shape, characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width and a height, particles which are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting temperature of the medium (approximately 100°C).

[0066] When the particle shape of a lamellar filler is circular, the length and width are identical and correspond to the diameter of a disc, while the height corresponds to the thickness of the disc. When the surface is oval, the length and width correspond respectively to the major axis and minor axis of an ellipse and the height corresponds to the thickness of the elliptical disc formed by the platelet. When the surface is polygonal, preferably parallelepiped, the length and width can be of identical or different dimensions: when they are of the same dimension, the general shape of the surface of the parallelepiped is square; otherwise, the general shape is rectangular. As for the height, it corresponds to the thickness of the parallelepiped.

[0067] The length of the lamellar particles suitable for the invention preferably varies from 0.01 to 100 μm, better still from 0.1 to 50 μm and even better still from 1 to 50 μm. The width of these platelets preferably ranges from 0.01 to 100 μm, better still from 0.1 to 50 μm and even better still from 1 to 10 μm. And the height (thickness) of these platelets preferably varies from 0.1 nm to 1 μm (0.1 to 1000 nm), better still from 1 nm to 600 nm and even better still from 1 nm to 500 nm.

[0068] The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise at least two lamellar fillers of different nature chosen from natural micas, a synthetic fluor-phlogopite, clays such as magnesium and aluminum silicates, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, a boron nitride, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, N-lauroyl lysine and mixtures thereof.

[0069] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two lamellar fillers chosen from natural mica, synthetic fluorphlogopites, N-Lauroyl Lysine, a boron nitride and their mixtures.

[0070] According to a particularly preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one natural mica, one synthetic fluorphlogopite, N-Lauroyl Lysine and one boron nitride.

[0071] As N-Lauroyl Lysine, we can cite the commercial product AMIHOPE LL® sold by the company AJINOMOTO

[0072] Boron nitride

[0073] There are several polymorphic forms of boron nitride: - hexagonal boron nitrides (denoted h-BN), - rhombohedral boron nitrides (denoted r-BN), - amorphous boron nitrides (denoted a-BN), - turbostratic boron nitrides (denoted t-BN), - cubic boron nitrides (denoted c-BN), and - hexagonal boron nitrides of the wurtzite type (denoted w-BN).

[0074] The hexagonal boron nitride h-BN has a so-called hexagonal sheet structure, formed by the AB AB type stacking of BN planes, which are perfectly superimposed from one plane to the other thanks to the difference in chemical nature of the elements B and N.

[0075] According to a particular form of the invention, boron nitride particles having a platelet shape and a hexagonal shape (denoted h-BN) will be used.

[0076] Preferably, the boron nitride particles have an average particle size ranging from 0.1 to 25 μm and preferably from 0.3 to 15 μm.

[0077] The particle size is measured using a laser diffraction distribution method with a device such as Microtrac® from Nikkiso or 3042407 16 Mastersizer® from Malvern, in particular by measuring the values ​​D

[10] , D

[50] and D

[90] . D

[10] represents the maximum size present in 10% by volume of the particles. D

[50] represents the maximum size present in 50% by volume of the particles. D

[90] represents the maximum size present in 90% by volume of the particles.

[0078] The boron nitride particles in accordance with the invention may be chosen from the following commercial products: RONAFLAIR BORONEIGE SQ-6 ® sold by the company MERCK, SP2® and SP8® sold by the company Saint Gobain Ceramics, the products SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE CC6657®, CC6058®, CC6059® sold by the company MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS.

[0079] The lamellar fillers are advantageously present in a composition in accordance with the present invention at a total content ranging from 10 to 60% by weight, better still from 20 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] Perlite

[0081] The perlites which can be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have the following composition: - 70.0-75.0% by weight of silica SiO2 - 12.0-15.0% by weight of aluminum oxide A12O3 - 3.0-5.0% sodium oxide Na2O2 - 3.0-5.0% potassium oxide K2O - 0.5-2% iron oxide Fe2O3 - 0.2-0.7% magnesium oxide MgO - 0.5-1.5% calcium oxide CaO - 0.05 - 0.15% titanium oxide TiO2.

[0082] Preferably, the perlite is ground, dried and then calibrated in a first step. The product obtained, called Perlite Ore, is gray in color and of the order of 100 μm in size. The Perlite Ore is then expanded (1000°C / 2 seconds) to give more or less white particles. When the temperature reaches 850-900°C, the water trapped in the structure of the material vaporizes and causes the material to expand relative to its original volume.

[0083] The expanded perlite particles in accordance with the invention can be obtained by the expansion process described in US patent 5,002,698. 35

[0084] Preferably, the perlite particles used will be ground; in this case they are called Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP).

[0085] They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 pm and preferably from 0.5 to 40 pm.

[0086] Preferably, the perlite particles used have an unpacked apparent density at 25°C ranging from 10 to 400 kg / m3 (DIN Standard 53468) and preferably from 10 to 300 kg / m3.

[0087] Preferably, perlite sold by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the trade name Perlite-M SZ12® is used.

[0088] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises perlite in a content ranging from 5 to 45% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] Spherical charge

[0090] A composition in accordance with the invention comprises one or more spherical filler(s) chosen from inorganic fillers and organic fillers of natural origin.

[0091] By “organic filler of natural origin” we mean any filler derived from a plant and having undergone one or more chemical modifications, for example by synthesis reaction.

[0092] By "spherical" is meant that the particle has a sphericity index, that is to say the ratio between its largest diameter and its smallest diameter, of less than 1.2.

[0093] According to a particular form of the invention, the average diameter of spherical charge(s) in accordance with the invention may vary from 1 to 100 pm, preferably from 1 to 50 pm, in particular less than 30 pm, and more particularly ranging from 1 to 25 pm.

[0094] By “average diameter” of the particles is meant the average diameter over 50% by volume of the particles (D[0.5]) obtained using a laser diffraction granulometer (e.g. Mastersizer 2000® from Malvern Company).

[0095] The spherical fillers of the present invention may be porous or non-porous, hollow or solid.

[0096] An inorganic spherical filler in accordance with the invention may be chosen from the group consisting of glass microbeads; silica microbeads, in particular amorphous porous silica microbeads, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Among the glass microbeads, we can cite: - those with the INCI name: GLASS BEADS such as the commercial product P2015SL® (9-11 pm) by PRIZMALITE company; - hollow microspheres with INCI name: CALCIUM ALUMINIUM BORO-SILICATE such as the commercial product LUXSIL COSMETIC MICROSPHERES® (9-13 pm) by the company POTTERS.

[0098] As an example of spherical particles of amorphous silica, the following commercial PRODUCTS can be used: Silica 35 Beads SB-150®, SB-300® or SB 700®, preferably SB 300® from MYOSHI KASEI; the SUNSPHERE® or SOLASPHERE® range from Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH, including SUNSPHERE H-51® or SUNSPHERE 12L®, SUNSPHERE H-201®, H-52® and SUNSPHERE® or SOLASPHERE H-53®; SUNSIL 1308® from Sunjin; SPHERICA P-1500® from Ikeda Corporation; SY-LOSPHERE® from Fuji Silysia; the SILICA PEARL® and SATINIER® ranges from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more specifically SATINIER Ml3® and Satinier Ml6® silicas, MSS-500® silicas from KOBO, and more specifically MSS-500-20N®, as well as Silica Shells® from KOBO.

[0099] The organic spherical fillers of natural origin may be selected from spherical cellulose beads and / or microcrystalline celluloses in the form of spheres, and mixtures thereof. The cellulose beads that can be used are not limited by the type of cellulose such as cellulose I, cellulose II or the like.

[0100] Among the cellulose microbeads, we can cite the commercial products CELLULOSE BEADS USF® (4-7 pm), CELLULOSE BEADS D-10® (< 15 pm), CELLULOSE BEADS D-30® (< 30 pm) and CELLULOSE BEADS D-100® (< 100 pm) sold by the company DAITO.

[0101] More particularly, the composition comprises at least one spherical filler chosen from glass microbeads with the INCI name: CALCIUM ALUMINIUM BO-ROSILICATE, porous amorphous silica microbeads, and mixtures thereof.

[0102] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises the spherical filler(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] Amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer

[0104] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, also called amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, preferably a block copolymer soluble or dispersible in the oily phase.

[0105] Such a copolymer can therefore play a gelling function for this oily phase.

[0106] The hydrocarbon block copolymer can in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial, star copolymer, or mixtures thereof.

[0107] Such hydrocarbon block copolymers are described in application US-A-2002 / 005562 and in patent US-A-5,221,534.

[0108] The copolymer may have at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20°C, preferably less than or equal to 0°C, preferably less than or equal to -20°C, more preferably less than or equal to -40°C. The glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150°C and 20°C, in particular between 100°C and 0°C.

[0109] The hydrocarbon block copolymer present in the composition according to the invention is preferably an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may in particular be an ethylenically unsaturated monomer.

[0110] As an example of olefin, mention may be made of ethylenic carbide monomers, having in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene, or pentadiene.

[0111] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.

[0112] Particularly preferred are block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units chosen from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or one of their mixtures.

[0113] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.

[0114] In particular, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and C3-C4 ethylene / alkylene blocks.

[0115] As diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butylene copolymers. Diblock polymers are notably sold under the name Kraton® G1701E by the company Kraton Polymers.

[0116] As triblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers, styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers. Triblock polymers are sold in particular under the names Kraton® G1650, Kraton® G1652, Kraton® G1657®, Kraton® DI 101, Kraton® DI 102, Kraton® DI 160 by the company Kraton Polymers.

[0117] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a hydrogenated styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene triblock copolymer with the INCI name: HYDROGENATED STYRENE / BUTADIENE COPOLYMER such as the commercial product ELLAMERA TER SET 503® sold by the company Kraton Polymers.

[0118] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a content of from 0.5 to 5% by weight of active material of hydrocarbon block copolymer(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight.

[0119] Particulate coloring agent

[0120] The particulate coloring agent according to the invention is preferably chosen from pigments, nacres, reflective particles and mixtures thereof.

[0121] A composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of particulate coloring agent(s) ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] Pigments

[0123] By “pigments” is meant particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.

[0124] The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0125] Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, possibly surface treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.

[0126] The organic pigments can be chosen from the materials below and their mixtures: - cochineal carmine, - organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthenic, pyrenic, quinolinic, triphenylmethane, fluorane dyes.

[0127] Among the organic pigments, mention may in particular be made of the D&C certified pigments known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6.

[0128] The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic coloring materials cited above are mentioned in the work "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 1997 Edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by "The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association", the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference.

[0129] Pigments chosen from: - titanium dioxides (CI 77891) such as the commercial product HOMBITAN FF PHARMA® sold by the company VENATOR, - red iron oxides (CI 77491) such as the commercial product SUNPURO RED IRON OXIDE C33-8001® sold by the company SUN, - yellow iron oxides (CI 77492) such as the commercial product SUNPURO YELLOW IRON OXIDE C33-9001® sold by the company SUN; - black iron oxides (CI 77499) such as the commercial product SUNPURO BLACK IRON OXIDE C33-7001 sold by the company SUN, and - their mixtures such as the mixture of red and black iron oxides sold under the trade name UNIPURE RED LC 383® by the company SENSIENT.

[0130] Mother-of-pearl

[0131] By “mother-of-pearl” we mean colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

[0132] Examples of nacres include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials are superimposed.

[0133] The mother-of-pearls can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, green, blue, purple and / or coppery color or reflection.

[0134] As an illustration of the mother-of-pearls that can be introduced into the composition, mention may be made of gold-colored mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Brillant Gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company MERCK under the name Bronze Fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR® 101 (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange® (17449) (Microna); brown mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu-Antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite);copper-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A® (Timica); red-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by the company MERCK under the name Sienna Fine® (17386) (Colorona); yellow-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Yellow® (4502) (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold reflection, notably marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Tan Opale G005® (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a gold reflection, notably marketed by the company; ENGELHARD under the name Nu Antique Bronze 240 AB® (Timica), blue mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company MERCK under the name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearls with a silver sheen marketed in particular by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver® and pinkish-orange, golden-green mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company MERCK under the name Indian Summer® (Xirona) and mixtures thereof.

[0135] Still as examples of mother-of-pearls, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.

[0136] Particles having a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name Metashine MC1080RY® by the company Toyal.

[0137] Finally, among the examples of mother-of-pearl which may also be mentioned, we may cite polyethylene terephthalate flakes, in particular those sold by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004® (silver flakes).

[0138] A composition according to the invention may comprise a nacre content ranging from 0 to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] Emulsifying non-ionic surfactants

[0140] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsifying non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than or equal to 8.

[0141] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “emulsifying surfactant” means an amphiphilic surfactant compound, i.e. one having two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value, HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in “The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For the non-ionic emulsifying surfactants that can be used according to the invention, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method.

[0142] The emulsifying surfactant(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] The surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from: - esters and ethers of oses such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, methyl glucose isostearate, sucrose (poly)palmitostearate, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose tribehenate, sucrose oleate, sucrose distearate, sucrose polylaurate, sucrose laurate, sucrose hexaerucate, and mixtures thereof, for example Arlatone 2121® marketed by the company ICI or SPAN 65V® from the company UNIQEMA; - esters of fatty acids, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and of polyol, in particular glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, for example sold under the name TEGIN M® by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, polyglycerolated diisostearate, polyglycerolated isostearate, polyglycerolated monostearate, diglyceryl tetraisostearate, polyethylene glycol diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312® by the company HULS, diethylene glycol (di-)laurate, decaglyceryl pentaoleate, decaglyceryl pentadiisostearate, glyceryl caprate / caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 (iso-)stearate, and glyceryl (poly)ricinoleate; - oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated alcohols which may contain from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and preferably C12-C18, ethoxylated such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-2") such as BRU 72® marketed by the company UNIQEMA, oxyethylenated oleyl alcohol; - fatty alcohols such as cetylstearyl alcohol; - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicone compounds, having for example from 3 to 20 oxyalkylenated units and in particular elastomeric or non-elastomeric oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated dimethicones; and mixtures thereof.

[0144] According to a particular form, the emulsifying non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than or equal to 8 is sorbitan isostearate with the INCI name: SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE such as the commercial product SPAN® 120 sold by the company CRODA.

[0145] Preparation process (wet process)

[0146] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is obtained by a wet process comprising the following steps: - the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, the powder phase and at least one volatile solvent are mixed to prepare a slurry. - the said sludge is injected and then shaped in a container by compacting, in particular pressing and / or suction to obtain the final compact powder.

[0147] Preferably, a sludge drying step is also carried out. molded into the container.

[0148] Mixing step

[0149] In this step, the components of the oily phase, the components of the powdery phase and the volatile solvent(s) are mixed to prepare the slurry which is a thick suspension of the powdery materials in the liquid formed by the oily phase and the volatile solvent(s).

[0150] According to a first variant, the components of the powder phase and those of the oily phase are mixed beforehand and then, in a second step, the volatile solvent(s) are added to the mixture obtained.

[0151] According to a second variant, the components of the oily phase and the volatile solvent(s) are mixed beforehand and then, in a second step, the components of the powdery phase are added to the mixture obtained.

[0152] According to a particular form of the invention, the quantity of oily phase and the quantity of powdery phase are such that the oily phase / powdery phase weight ratio varies from 20 / 80 to 45 / 55, preferably from 25 / 75 to 40 / 60.

[0153] The volatile organic solvents may be chosen from water, C2-C4 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, volatile cyclic or linear silicone oils and hydrocarbons such as isoparaffins such as isododecane. Preferably, isoparaffins such as isododecane will be used.

[0154] According to the present invention, the mixing with the powder phase can be carried out with any type of mixer such as a Lodige type mixer.

[0155] According to a particular form of the invention, the mixed powder can also undergo grinding, for example with an Alpine-type pin mill or a cutting robot.

[0156] According to a particular form of the invention, the mixing of the volatile solvents can be carried out in any suitable container such as a bowl. It can be carried out in a planetary mixer. The required dispersion time is not limited and may depend on certain factors such as the type of mixer. For example, if a planetary mixer is used, the dispersion time may vary from 15 to 20 minutes.

[0157] The total amount of oily phase, powdery phase and volatile solvent is not limited. According to a particular form of the invention, the weight ratio of total amount of oily phase and powdery phase / amount of volatile solvent(s) may be 5 / 1, preferably 3 / 1, and more preferably 2 / 1.

[0158] If necessary, degassing can be carried out during the mixing step. The oil phase, the powder phase and the volatile solvent(s) can be mixed in a vacuum chamber. The degassing time may depend on certain factors such as the pressure in the vacuum chamber. It can vary from 15 to 20 minutes. It is preferable to agitate the slurry for effective degassing.

[0159] Shaping step

[0160] In this step, the sludge is injected and then shaped in a container such as a bucket or a mold by compaction, in particular pressing and / or suction. It is preferable to use

[0161] As a container, a cup or a bowl can be used. The container can have small orifices which only allow the solvent to escape by suction.

[0162] Methods of pouring the sludge into the container include injection through the upper part of the container (“top injection”) or injection through the rear part of the container (“back injection”).

[0163] According to the so-called “top injection” mode, the slurry is poured into the container above the container. This mode is particularly suitable for the preparation of multi-colored compact powders.

[0164] According to the so-called “back injection” method, the mud is injected through the bottom of the container using a suitable mechanism to introduce it into the container. In particular, a so-called Pilot Back Injection machine sold by the company NANYO CO.LTD is used.

[0165] This injection method is suitable for a wide range of compact makeup powders and is particularly suitable for obtaining a compact powder of complex shape. The slurry introduced into the container is molded by compression and / or suction. Preferably, compression and suction are carried out simultaneously.

[0166] Compaction, in particular pressing, can be carried out by exerting pressure on the slurry in the container by mechanical means such as a press having a flat or non-flat surface (possibility of relief). Suction can be carried out, for example, by reducing the pressure in the container by vacuum. Compaction, in particular pressing and suction can be reproduced several times. If necessary, vibration can be applied to the container and / or the press.

[0167] Drying step

[0168] In this step, the molded slurry is dried to obtain a compact powder without volatile solvent or containing a very small amount of volatile solvent. By drying, the remaining volatile solvent(s) can be completely removed. The drying temperature and time depend on several factors such as the components of the composition and the type of volatile solvent used. For example, drying can be carried out at a temperature of 60 to 100°C for a period of 1 to 12 hours.

[0169] Cosmetic process

[0170] The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face or the eyelids, characterized in that it comprises the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

[0171] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be a powder, a foundation, a blush or an eyeshadow.

[0172] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be applied by means of any applicator suitable for compact powders intended to be applied to the face or to the eyelids, such as a powder puff or a brush.

[0173] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0174] Together

[0175] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic set or kit comprising: (i) a container delimiting one or more compartments (d), said container being closed by a closing element and possibly being non-watertight; and ii) a makeup and / or care composition in accordance with the invention placed inside said compartment(s).

[0176] The container may for example be in the form of a pot or a case. The closure element may be in the form of a lid comprising a cap mounted to be movable by translation or by pivoting relative to the container housing said makeup and / or care composition(s).

[0177] Said cosmetic set can be associated with an applicator such as a powder puff, a foam applicator or a brush.

[0178] Cosmetic additives

[0179] The composition may contain conventional cosmetic additives such as fat-soluble coloring matters, preservatives, perfumes, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, lipophilic active ingredients such as vitamins, lipophilic UV filters.

[0180] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0181] Liposoluble coloring matters

[0182] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one liposoluble coloring matter and preferably in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the skills of those skilled in the art.

[0184] For the purposes of the invention, the term “liposoluble coloring matter” means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring.

[0185] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes, synthetic or natural, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ([3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.

[0186] Cosmetic applications

[0187] The composition used according to the invention may be a care and / or makeup composition for keratin materials, in particular for the skin, cheeks and eyelids.

[0188] More specifically, the composition according to the invention is a skin care and / or makeup product, in particular for the face, cheeks or eyelids, and more particularly a foundation powder, a blush or an eyeshadow.

[0189] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0190] Packaging and application assembly or kit

[0191] The present invention also relates to a set, or kit, for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials comprising: - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.

[0192] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a makeup set comprising: (i) an applicator ii) a composition in accordance with the invention placed inside a container.

[0193] The container may delimit one or more compartment(s). The container may for example be in the form of a tube.

[0194] Such an applicator may be integral with a cap mounted reversibly on said container between a position for closing said container and a makeup position.

[0195] Alternatively, such an applicator may be irreversibly mounted on said container. Examples of applicators include those of the felt or brush type which may be made of synthetic fibers.

[0196] It is understood that within the framework of the present invention that the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0197] Throughout the application, the expression "has a" or "includes a" must be understood as meaning "having at least one" or "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0198] It is understood that the following examples are provided for illustrative purposes and are in no way limiting of the scope of the protection conferred by the present application.

[0199] Example 1 (invention) and example 1a (outside the invention) of complexion powders

[0200] The following compositions were prepared.

[0201] [Tables 1] Phase Ingrédients Ex 1 (invention) Ex la (hors invention) Ex 1b (hors invention) A LAUROYL LYSINE (AMIHOPE LL® - AJINOMOTO) 5 5 5 BORON NITRIDE (SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE CC6058® - MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) 3 3 3 SILICA (SOLASPHERE H-53®-Asahi Glass AGC SLTECH) 1 1 1 CALCIUM ALUMINUM BORO-SILICATE (LUXSIL COSMETIC MICROSPHERES® - POTTERS) 2 2 2 MAGNESIUM STEARATE 2 2 2 PERLITE (PERLITE-M SZ12® - Miyoshi Kase)i qsp 100 0 0 MICA (MEARLMICA SV® - COLORS AND EFFECTS / SUN CHEMICAL) 0,9 0,9 0,9 MICA (SERICITE SL® - SL HORIE KAKO) 26 26 26 TALC IMERCARE PHARMA 5T® - IMERYS) 0 qsp 100 0 TALC (and) METHICONE (SL2 TALC JA-46R® (NC) - DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0 0 qsp 100 SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE 10 10 10 B TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891) (HOMBITAN FF PHARMA® -VENATOR) 0.75 0.75 0.75 YELLOWIRON OXIDES (CI 77492) (SUNPURO YELLOW IRON OXIDE C33-9001® - SUN) 1.1 1.1 1.1 RED IRON OXIDES (CI 77491) (SUNPURO RED IRON OXIDE C33-8001® - SUN) 0.53 0.53 0.53 BLACK IRON OXIDES (CI 77499) (SUNPURO BLACK IRON OXIDE C33-7001® - SUN) 0.2 0.2 0.2 C SQUALANE 10 10 10 HYDROGENATED POLY-ISOBUTENE 3.6 3.6 3.6 SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE (SPAN-120® - CRODA) 0.1 0.1 0.1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 HYDROGENATED STYRENE / BUTADIENE COPOLYMER (ELLAMERA TER SET 503® -KRATON POLYMERS) 0.7 0.7 0.7 C12-C15 ALKYL BENZOATE (C12 / C15 BENZOATE (DUB B1215) - STEARINERIE DUBOIS) 7.7 7.7 7.7 ISODODECANE 0.1 0.1 0 Protocol for preparing compositions

[0202] 1. Preparation of phases A and B

[0203] The ingredients of phase A and the pigments of phase B were weighed in a large stainless steel cup.

[0204] Phase A was ground in a food processor: 1 time for 15 seconds at 1500 rpm then 3 times for 1 minute at 3000 rpm.

[0205] 2. Incorporation of phase C:

[0206] The ingredients of phase C (except isododecane) were heated (in a water bath at 75°C). When phase C had melted, it was stirred using a deflocculator until a vortex forms (approximately 300 rpm) then it is introduced while stirring via the lid of the robot-coupe: 1 time per minute at 1500 rpm.

[0207] The whole thing was ground in the Robot-coupe: 1 time for 1 minute at 1500 rpm, then 2 times for 2 minutes at 3000 rpm and 1 time for 1 minute at 3000 rpm.

[0208] 3. Preparation of the slurry:

[0209] The mixture obtained previously was diluted in a large quantity of isododecane in order to obtain the desired viscosity of the “powder / solvent” mixture. This paste was injected from below (back injection) into the cups using a so-called Pilot Back Injection machine sold by the company NANYO CO.LTD.

[0210] 4. Injection of the mud:

[0211] The Back Injection machine made it possible to inject the “powder-solvent” mixture or slurry through the bottom of the cup and simultaneously suck up part of the dilution solvent. Throughout the injection of the product, the injection mold was placed under vacuum to allow the elimination of the isododecane which was sucked up and recovered in the vacuum trap. The vacuum thus made it possible to promote the filling of the cup and its homogenization.

[0212] The parts injected from below were then placed in a ventilated oven at 45°C until their weight no longer changed. The product was then considered dry.

[0213] Example 1b outside the invention obtained by a conventional dry process (outside the invention)

[0214] Composition 1b was prepared without isododecane as follows:

[0215] Dry preparation protocol

[0216] 1. Preparation of phases A and B

[0217] The ingredients of phase A and the pigments of phase B were weighed in a large stainless steel cup.

[0218] Phase A was ground in a food processor: 1 time for 15 seconds at 1500 rpm then 3 times for 1 minute at 3000 rpm.

[0219] 2. Incorporation of phase C:

[0220] The ingredients of phase C, excluding isododecane, were heated (in a water bath at 75°C). When phase C had melted, it was stirred using a deflocculator until a vortex formed (approximately 300 rpm) and then it was introduced with stirring via the lid of the robot-coupe: 1 time per minute at 1500 rpm.

[0221] The whole thing was ground in the Robot-coupe: 1 time for 1 minute at 1500 rpm, then 2 times for 2 minutes at 3000 rpm and 1 time for 1 minute at 3000 rpm.

[0222] 3. Compacting the powder by traditional press:

[0223] The bulk mixture was loaded, respecting a studied weight, into a bucket, itself placed in a support of its size. A fabric is placed on its surface then an imprint of the size of the bucket. The assembly thus installed is pressed at a pressure of 40 kgf / cm2 to form a foundation composition in the form of a compacted powder.

[0224] Transparency measurement

[0225] A piece of Supplale® was placed on the heating plate to temper it to 32°C.

[0226] Each product to be tested was sampled by performing a transverse movement 3 times, holding the sponge at an angle of approximately 45° to the surface of the powder and parallel to the direction of movement.

[0227] Then, each product to be tested was placed on the Supplale by performing a transverse movement once, holding the sponge at an angle of approximately 45° to the surface of the Supplale® and parallel to the direction of movement. The application surface is approximately 7 cm in length by the width of the sponge.

[0228] The result obtained was then noted on a scale of 0 to 5 according to intensity in relation to pre-established limits. 5 is equivalent to very good 4 is equal to good 3 is equivalent to medium 2 equals mediocre 1 equals low 0 equals impossible.

[0229] A deviation of at least 1 is considered significant.

[0230] Assessment of Dullness

[0231] A dullness assessment protocol was implemented on a panel of 10 experienced individuals. Dullness is on the skin after application.

[0232] The panel gives a score from 0 to 5. 0 corresponds to a shiny powder. 5 corresponds to a matte powder.

[0233] A deviation of at least 1 is considered significant.

[0234] Evaluation of Sensoriality

[0235] An evaluation protocol was implemented on a panel of 10 experienced people, and the result concerning: - the texture of the powder, - the sensoriality and in particular the softness to the touch, the creaminess, the slipperiness when taken, - application (quantity taken, ease of application, adhesion to application), - the makeup result: uniformity, powdery effect, coverage, color effect, matte finish, comfort throughout the day, hold and ease of makeup removal of a composition according to the invention evaluated by the same people.

[0236] The panel gives a score from 0 to 10. 0 corresponds to a powder that does not satisfy any of the above parameters. 10 corresponds to a powder satisfying all the above parameters.

[0237] A deviation of at least 1 is considered significant.

[0238] The results of the comparative tests are shown in the table below:

[0239] [Tables2] Evaluations Exl (invention) without talc Ex la (outside invention) with talc Transparency 5 4 Evaluation of mattness after application 5 4 Sensory evaluation 9 6

[0240] [Tables3] Evaluations Exl (invention) wet process Ex 1b (outside invention) dry process Sensory evaluation 9 1

Claims

Claims

1. Solid composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least: A) an oily phase in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said oily phase comprising a) at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and B) a pulverulent phase in an amount of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said pulverulent phase comprising at least: i) at least two lamellar fillers of different nature; and ii) perlite; and ii) at least one spherical filler chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof; and iii) at least one particulate coloring agent; and C) at least one amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer; and D) at least one particulate coloring matter;said composition not containing talc particles, silicone compounds or microplastic particles; said composition being capable of being obtained by a wet preparation process comprising at least the following steps: 1) mixing the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, the powder phase and at least one volatile solvent to form a slurry; and (2) injecting the slurry into a container and shaping it by compacting, in particular pressing and / or suction to obtain the composition in the form of a compact powder.;

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of powder phase varies from 50 to 85% by weight, better still from 60 to 80% by weight, relative to its total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising less than 0.5% by weight of residual volatile solvent(s) from the wet preparation process, better still less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to claim 3, wherein the volatile solvent is chosen from water, C2-C4 monoalcohols, ethers, volatile hy- carbonaceous, in particular chosen from C8-C16 isoparaffins, and more particularly isododecane.

5. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the polar non-volatile oil or oils is (are) present in the composition of the invention in an amount less than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile, apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) is (are) chosen from squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the non-volatile, apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) is (are) present in an amount less than or equal to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least two lamellar fillers of different nature chosen from natural mica, synthetic fluorphlogopite, clays such as magnesium and aluminum silicates, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, N-lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least two lamellar fillers of different nature chosen from natural mica, synthetic fluorphlogopites, a boron nitride, N-lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof.

11. A composition according to claim 10, comprising a mixture comprising at least one natural mica, one synthetic fluorphlogopite, N-Lauroyl Lysine and one boron nitride.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, or the lamellar fillers are present in a composition in accordance with the present invention at a total content ranging from 10 to 60% by weight, better still from 20 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising perlite in a content ranging from 5 to 45% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the inorganic spherical filler is selected from the group consisting of glass microbeads; silica microbeads, and mixtures thereof.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the organic spherical filler of natural origin is chosen from spherical cellulose beads and / or microcrystalline celluloses in the form of spheres, and mixtures thereof.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the spherical filler(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer is an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin.

18. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said at least one amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C3-C4 alkylene blocks.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the particulate coloring agent is chosen from pigments, nacres, and mixtures thereof.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total content of particulate coloring agent(s) ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

22. Composition according to claim 19, where the pigments are chosen from - titanium dioxides (CI 77891), - red iron oxides (CI 77491), - yellow iron oxides (CI 77492); - black iron oxides (CI 77499), and - their mixtures.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one emulsifying non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than or equal to 8, in particular sorbitan isostearate with the INCI name: SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE.

24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a foundation powder, a blush or an eyeshadow.

25. Cosmetic set or kit comprising: i) a container delimiting one or more compartments (d), said container being closed by a closing element and optionally being non-watertight; and ii) a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 24, arranged inside said compartment(s).

26. A method of coating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 24.

27. ​​Process for preparing a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 24, characterized in that it comprises at least the following steps: 1) the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, the powder phase and at least one volatile solvent are mixed to form a slurry; and (2) the slurry is injected into a container and shaped by compacting, in particular pressing and / or suction to obtain a compact powder.