COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ANIONIC AND AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTS, AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION, NON-IONIC POLYSACCHARIDE(S) AND FATTY SUBSTANCE(S)

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprising anionic and amphoteric surfactants, an oil-in-water emulsion, one or more non-ionic polysaccharides and one or more fatty substances The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants (a), one or more amphoteric surfactants (b) and one or more oil-in-water emulsions (c) having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, the size being expressed by volume, and comprising: – a mixture of silicones comprising: (i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s.s and an amine index ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone; – a mixture of surfactants comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16; and – water; at least one non-ionic polysaccharide (d) and at least one fatty compound (e). Figure for abstract: none.

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ANIONIC AND AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTS, AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION, ONE(S) NONIONIC POLYSACCHARIDE(S) AND ONE(S) FATTY SUBSTANCE(S)

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for cleaning and revitalizing keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, which comprises at least one anionic surfactant (a), at least one amphoteric surfactant (b), a particular oil-in-water emulsion (c), at least one non-ionic polysaccharide (d) and at least one fatty substance (e).

[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleaning and revitalizing keratinous fibers using this composition.

[0003] Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for cleaning and revitalizing keratinous fibers.

[0004] In the field of hair washing and hair care, rinse-off products and leave-in products are used. These products aim to provide good cleaning performance as well as various cosmetic properties, such as smooth texture, luster, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good detangling properties.

[0005] However, these products lead to compositions with insufficient foam qualities, particularly in terms of creamy texture and smooth texture of the foam. Indeed, the foams are generally less creamy and less dense.

[0006] Furthermore, these products do not impart great cosmeticity to the hair, in terms of, for example, smooth texture, luster, softness and detangling properties.

[0007] There is therefore a need to develop cosmetic compositions which effectively remove dirt, perspiration, sebum and other inorganic particles from keratinous fibres such as hair, and which overcome the aforementioned drawbacks while improving the cosmetic properties.

[0008] The Applicant has now discovered that the combination of one or more anionic surfactants, one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, a particular oil-in-water emulsion, one or more non-ionic polysaccharides and one or more fatty substances makes it possible to achieve the objectives reviewed above.

[0009] Thus, an object of the invention is a cosmetic composition for washing and re vitalization of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: a. one or more anionic surfactants, b. one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, c. an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, the size being expressed by volume, and comprising:

[0010] - a mixture of silicones comprising: i. one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s and ii. one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone;

[0011] - a mixture of surfactants comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16; and

[0012] -water; a. one or more non-ionic polysaccharides, and b. one or more fatty substances.

[0013] In particular, said composition makes it possible to obtain excellent foam properties in terms of light and fluffy texture, improved working qualities (easy application) and improved cosmetic properties such as smooth texture to the touch and ease of combing on hair strands. The compositions resemble whipped creams.

[0014] The composition has a viscosity preferably ranging from 350 to 800 centipoise (cps) (350 to 800 mPa.s), more preferably from 400 to 700 cps (400 to 700 mPa.s), more preferably from 500 to 600 cps (500 to 600 mPa.s), as measured using an M4 spindle rheometer at a temperature of 25°C, for 30 s and at a speed of 200 rpm.

[0015] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleaning and revitalizing keratinous fibers, preferably human keratinous fibers, such as hair, using this composition.

[0016] Another subject of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for cleaning and revitalizing keratinous fibers, preferably human keratinous fibers, such as hair.

[0017] According to the present application, the expression "keratinous fibers" preferably designates human keratinous fibers, and in particular hair. By "hair" in the present invention is meant the hair fibers of the head.

[0018] Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

[0019] In the following text, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, for example in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0020] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0021] Anionic surfactant(s) (a)

[0022] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant as a first essential component.

[0023] The expression “anionic surfactant” designates a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

[0024] In the present description, a species is said to be “anionic” when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

[0025] The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. It goes without saying that a mixture of these surfactants may be used.

[0026] It is understood in this description that: • the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions; • the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise carboxylate functions; and • anionic sulfate surfactants include at least one sulfate function, but do not include carboxylate or sulfonate functions.

[0027] The carboxylic anionic surfactants which can be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).

[0028] They can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-C30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds.

[0029] The alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.

[0030] These compounds are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0031] It is also possible to use C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids, such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts.

[0032] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may also be made in particular of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and in particular ethylene oxide, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the name Akypo,

[0033] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids which can be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (I): R.^OCMVOCH / 3OOA (1)

[0034] in which • Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C8-C9)alkylphenyl radical, a R2CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C2[alkyl or alkenyl radical,

[0035] preferably, Ri is a C8-C20 and preferably C8-C18 alkyl radical and aryl preferably denotes phenyl, • n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10, • A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a residue of monoethanolamine or triethanolamine.

[0036] It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (I), in particular mixtures of compounds containing different Rb groups.

[0037] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids which are particularly preferred are those of formula (I) in which: • Ri denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or oc-tylphenyl radical, • A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and • n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.

[0038] Even more preferably, the compounds of formula (I) are used in which R denotes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.

[0039] Preferably, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: • acylglutamates, particularly C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as stea- roylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate; • acylsarcosinates, in particular C6-C24 or even C12-C2o, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate; • acyllactylates, in particular Ci2-C28 or even Ci4-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate; • C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20acylglycinates; • (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates and in particular (C12-C20)alkyl ether carboxylates; • polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; • in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0040] The anionic sulfonate surfactants which can be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3).

[0041] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamide-sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfo-succinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds. The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.

[0042] These compounds are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0043] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: • C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates; • C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; • (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates, • in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0044] The anionic sulfate surfactants which can be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).

[0045] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkylamide sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates and also the salts of these compounds.

[0046] The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.

[0047] These compounds are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0048] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: • alkyl sulfates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C2o, • alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, comprising preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; • in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0049] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.

[0050] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be cited include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0051] Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

[0052] Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: • C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20alkyl sulfates; • C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; • C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates; • C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; • (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates; • C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; in particular palmitoyl-sarcosinates; • (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C12-C20)alkyl ether carboxylates; • polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and in particular, ethylene oxide groups; • C6-C24 and in particular C12-C2oacylglutamates; • C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20acylglycinates; • in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0053] More preferably, the anionic surfactants are of the alkyl sulfate type and are preferably chosen from salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium salts, alkyl sulfates, alkylamide sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates and mixtures thereof.

[0054] The alkyl radical of all of these various compounds preferably contains from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.

[0055] The anionic surfactants suitable in the composition of the present invention may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0056] Even more preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen from C12-C14 alkyl ether sulfate salts, such as lauryl ether sulfate salts.

[0057] The anionic surfactant(s) (a) is (are) preferably present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 5% to 25% by weight and better still from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (b)

[0059] The second essential component of the cosmetic composition of the invention is at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.

[0060] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) which may be used in the present invention may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2oalkyl)amido(C3-C8alkyl)betaines or (C8 -C2oalkyl)amido(C6-C8alkyl)sulfobetaines.

[0061] Among the secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of: composed of the respective structures (II) and (III) below:

[0062] Ra-C(O)-N(Z)CH2(CH2)mN+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2C(O)O, M\

[0063] in which • Ra represents a C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an Ra COOH acid preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; • Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; • Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; • M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and • X represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; • m is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and • Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.

[0064] Or alternatively M+ and X are absent;

[0065] Ra-C(O)-N(Z)-CH2-(CH2)mN(B)(B') (III)

[0066] in which • B represents the group -CH2CH2-OX'; • B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; • X' represents the group -CH2-C(O)OH, -CH2-C(O)OZ', -CH2-CH2-C(O)OH, - CH2-CH2-C(O)OZ' or a hydrogen atom; • Y' represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ', -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z'; • Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; • Ra represents a C6-C30 alkyl or C6-C30 alkenyl group of an acid R, -COOH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, in particular a Cn alkyl group and its iso form, or an unsaturated Cp group; • m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and • Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.

[0067] Compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodi-propionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoam-phodipropionic acid and hydroxyethylcarboxymethylcocamidopropylamine.

[0068] Among the non-limiting examples that can be cited, there is the cocoampho-diacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name Chimexane HA.

[0069] Compounds of formula (IV) can also be used:

[0070] Ra-NH-CH(Y”)-(CH2)nC(O)NH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (IV)

[0071] in which • Y” represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ", -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z"; • Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; • Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; • Ra represents a C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra-C(O)OH which is preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; and • n and n' designate, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0072] Among the compounds of formula (IV), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

[0073] Among the above-mentioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, it is preferable to use (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocobetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines, and even more preferably cocobetaine.

[0075] The amphoteric surfactant(s) (b) is (are) present in a total amount preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10%, most preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] Oil-in-water emulsion (c)

[0077] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises an oil-in-water emulsion (or silicone-in-water emulsion) as a third essential component.

[0078] The oil-in-water emulsion (c) has a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, the size being expressed in volume, and comprises: • a mixture of silicones comprising: i. one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s and ii. one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone; • a mixture of surfactants comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16; and • water.

[0079] In the oil-in-water emulsion, or silicone-in-water emulsion, according to the invention, a liquid phase (the dispersed phase) is advantageously dispersed in another liquid phase (the continuous phase); in the present invention, the mixture of silicones, or silicone phase, is dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase.

[0080] The silicone mixture comprises (i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes carrying trialkylsilyl end groups, preferably of formula (V):

[0081] R'3SiO(R'2SiO)pSiR'3 (V),

[0082] in which: • R', which may be the same or different, is a hydrocarbon radical mo novalent containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, even better still a methyl radical, and • p is an integer in the range 500 to 2000, preferably 1000 to 2000.

[0083] The polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups (i) according to the invention have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably excluding 100,000, more preferably ranging from 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C, better still from 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0084] The polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups according to the invention are preferably linear, but they may comprise, in addition to the R'2SiO2 / 2 units (D units), additional RSiO3 / 2 units (T units) and / or SiO4 / 2 units (Q units), in which R', which may be identical or different, is a monovalent C1-C18 hydrocarbon radical.

[0085] Preferably, in formula (V), R', which may be identical or different, is: • an alkyl, preferably C1-C28 alkyl, such as the radicals: methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, tert-pentyl, hexyl and in particular n-hexyl, heptyl and in particular n-heptyl, octyl and in particular n-octyl, isooctyl, 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl; nonyl and in particular n-nonyl; decyl and in particular n-decyl; dodecyl and in particular n-dodecyl; octadecyl and in particular n-octadecyl; • an alkenyl radical such as vinyl and allyl; • a cycloalkyl radical such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl; • an aryl radical such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl; • an alkyl radical such as o-, m- and p-tolyl; xylyl and ethylphenyl radicals; • - an aralkyl radical such as benzyl and phenylethyl.

[0086] Preferably, R' is a methyl radical.

[0087] Preferably, the polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups (i) are polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) bearing trialkylsilyl end groups.

[0088] The silicone mixture also comprises (ii) one or more amino silicones, preferably of formula (VI):

[0089] XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X (VI),

[0090] in which: • R', which may be the same or different, is a hydrocarbon radical mo novalent containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, even better still a methyl radical; • X, which may be the same or different, represents R or a hydroxyl (OH) or C1-C6 alkoxy group; preferably X is R, i.e. a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, even better still a methyl radical; • A is an amino radical of formula -R*-[NR2-R3-]XNR22, or the protonated form of this amino radical, with • R1 representing a C, C6 alkylene radical, preferably a -CH2CH 2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2- radical; • R2, which may be the same or different, being a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom; • R3 being a C1-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a -CH2CH2- radical; • x is 0 or 1; • m and n are integers so that m+n ranges from 50 to 1000, better still from 50 to 600.

[0091] Preferably, A is an amino radical of formula -R'-[NR2-R3-]XNR22, or the protonated form of this amino radical, R1 being -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2 being hydrogen atoms, R3 being -CH2CH2-, and x being equal to 1.

[0092] Preferably, R, which may be the same or different, is: • an alkyl, preferably Cr-C28 alkyl, such as the radicals: methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, tert-pentyl, hexyl and in particular n-hexyl, heptyl and in particular n-heptyl, octyl and in particular n-octyl, isooctyl, 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl; nonyl and in particular n-nonyl; decyl and in particular n-decyl; dodecyl and in particular n-dodecyl; octadecyl and in particular n-octadecyl; • an alkenyl radical such as vinyl and allyl; • a cycloalkyl radical such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and me- ethylcyclohexyl; • an aryl radical such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl; • an alkyl radical such as the o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals; xylyl, ethylphenyl; • an aralkyl radical such as benzyl and phenylethyl.

[0093] Preferably, R is a methyl radical.

[0094] The amino silicones (ii) according to the invention have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s, preferably from 1,500 to 15,000 mPa.s.

[0095] The amino silicones (ii) according to the invention have an amine index ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, preferably from 3.5 to 8 mg.

[0096] The molar percentage of amine function is preferably between 0.3 mol% and 8 mol%.

[0097] As examples of amino silicones (ii), mention may be made of amino silicones bearing trialkylsilyl end groups; preferably aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, better still aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane copolymers bearing trialkylsilyl / dimethylsiloxane end groups.

[0098] The amino radical A can be partially or totally protonated, for example by the addition of acids to the amino silicone, so as to obtain the salified form of said amino radical.

[0099] As acids which may be used, mention may be made of linear or branched carboxylic acids containing from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, pivalic acid, sorbic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid. Preferably, the acids may be used in a proportion of 0.1 to 2.0 moles per mole of amino radical A in the amino silicone of formula (VI).

[0100] The silicone mixture preferably comprises: i. one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably excluding 100,000 mPa.s, in an amount of 70% to 90% by weight, more preferably 75% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture, and ii. one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine index ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in an amount of 10% to 30% by weight, in particular 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture.

[0101] The oil-in-water emulsion (c) also comprises a surfactant mixture which comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants; said surfactant mixture may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

[0102] Said mixture of surfactants has an HLB ranging from 10 to 16.

[0103] The nonionic surfactants which can be used can be chosen from the alcohols, a-diols and (Ci-2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups optionally ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups optionally ranging from 1 to 30; or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0104] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably poly-oxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0105] Mention may also be made of non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented in particular by the following general formula: RiO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:

[0106] - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an al- radical alkylphenyl whose linear or branched alkyl radical includes from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms; • R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms, • G represents a sugar unit including 5 to 6 carbon atoms, • t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4, • v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.

[0107] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which: • Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical, including from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, • R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms, • t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, and preferably equal to 0, • G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; • the degree of polymerization, namely the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0108] The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of type 1 to 6 or 1 to 4, preferably of type 1 to 4. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8 / C16 alkyl(poly)glucosides of type 1 to 4, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides, are very particularly preferred.

[0109] Among the commercial products, we can cite the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names Plantaren® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Oramix CG 110 and Oramix NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70, or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.

[0110] Preferably, C8 / C16 alkyl (poly)glycosides of type 1 to 4 are used, in particular in 53% aqueous solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.

[0111] The mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants preferably comprise an average number of glycerol groups ranging from 1 to 30, in particular from 1 to 10, better still from 1.5 to 5. They preferably correspond to one of the following formulas:

[0112] RO[CH2CH(CH2OH)O]mH,

[0113] RO[CH2CH(OH)CH2O]mH or

[0114] RO[CH(CH2OH)CH2O]mH ;

[0115] in which: • R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl or alkenyl) including 8 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as O and N, or an amide group, and optionally substituted for example by hydroxyl groups; and • m is an integer ranging from 1 to 30, preferably from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1.5 to 6.

[0116] In particular, R carries one or more hydroxyl groups and may comprise ether and / or amide groups. Preferably, R is a mono- or polyhydroxylated C10-C20 alkyl or alkenyl radical.

[0117] Mention may be made of polyglycerolated hydroxylauryl ether (3.5 mol), such as the product Chimexane® NF from Chimex.

[0118] Mention may also be made of (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols preferably comprising one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chains comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (OH), in particular 1 to 4 hydroxyl groups.

[0119] When the chain is unsaturated, it may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0120] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols preferably correspond to the formula (VII):

[0121] R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH,

[0122] in which: • R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more, in particular 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups; and • it is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, notably from 2 to 150, or even from 4 to 50 and even better from 8 to 30.

[0123] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO); we can notably cite lauryl alcohol 2 EO; lauryl alcohol 3 EO; decyl alcohol 3 EO; decyl alcohol 5 EO and oleyl alcohol 20 EO.

[0124] The non-ionic surfactants may advantageously be chosen from: i. (poly)oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, in particular (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols, and in particular those of formula: R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH in which: • R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more, in particular 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups; and • it is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, notably from 2 to 150, or even from 4 to 50 and even better from 8 to 20. i. (C8-C32)alkyl phenyl ethers (poly)oxyalkylenated, comprising in particular from 1 to 200, better still from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ii. polyoxyalkylenated esters of C8-C12 fatty acids and sorbitan, in particular polyoxyethylenated esters of C8-C32 fatty acids and sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, more preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide (EO) units; in particular polyoxyethylenated esters of C10-C24 fatty acids and sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, more preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide (EO) units; and iii. polyoxyethylenated esters of C8-C32 fatty acids preferably containing from 2 to 150 ethylene oxide units; in particular polyoxyethylenated esters of C10-C24 fatty acids, comprising in particular from 2 to 150 ethylene oxide (EO) units.

[0125] The non-ionic surfactants may advantageously be chosen from alkyl ethers and alkyl esters of polyalkylene glycol, in particular polyethylene glycol. In particular, mention may be made of: • polyethylene glycol octyl ether; polyethylene glycol lauryl ether; polyethylene glycol tridecyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearyl ether; and especially trideceth-3, trideceth-10 and steareth-6; • polyethylene glycol nonylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol dodecylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetyphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearylphenyl ether; • polyethylene glycol sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate; • polyethylene glycol stearate, and in particular PEG100 stearate.

[0126] Better still, the nonionic surfactants may be chosen from steareth-6, PEG-100 stearate, trideceth-3 and trideceth-10, and mixtures thereof; in particular, a mixture comprising these four nonionic surfactants.

[0127] The mixture of surfactants may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants, which may be chosen from tetraalkylammonium, tetraarylammonium and tetraalkylarylammonium salts, in particular the halides, and very particularly from cetrimonium or behentrimonium salts, in particular the halides, better still the chlorides.

[0128] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the mixture of surfactants in a total amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, in particular from 8% to 15% by weight, even better still from 10% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0129] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s) in a total amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, in particular from 8% to 15% by weight, even better still from 10% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0130] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the cationic surfactant(s), when present, in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0131] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the mixture of silicones in a total amount ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, in particular from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0132] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the dialkylpolysiloxane(s) bearing trialkylsilyl end groups in a total amount ranging from 35% to 45% by weight, in particular from 38% to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0133] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) in a total amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, in particular from 8% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0134] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises water in a total amount ranging from 25% to 50% by weight, in particular from 30% to 45% by weight, even better still from 35% to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0135] The oil-in-water emulsion may also comprise a preservative, such as phenoxyethanol, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0136] A process for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises: • a step of mixing one or more polydialkylsiloxanes carrying trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably excluding 100,000 mPa.s, and one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine index ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone; at a temperature of 15°C to 40°C, in particular at 25°C, so as to obtain a fluid silicone mixture; then • a step of adding a mixture of surfactants comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16, to said fluid silicone mixture, so as to obtain an emulsified silicone mixture; then • a step of homogenization of said emulsified silicone mixture, followed by • a step of adding water, in particular demineralized water, preferably in stages, so as to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 less than 350 nm.

[0137] The preparation process may also comprise an additional step of adding one or more preservatives.

[0138] The pH of the oil-in-water emulsion is generally between 4 and 6.

[0139] The oil-in-water emulsion has a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, in particular between 100 and 300 nm, better still between 150 and 250 nm, even better still between 160 and 200 nm, the size being expressed in volume.

[0140] This size corresponds to the average hydrodynamic particle diameter. The particle size D50 is expressed in volume. It can be measured using a ZetaSizer device from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, based on the "photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS)" method. Method of measuring particle size

[0141] The particle size of the emulsion is measured using a ZetaSizer device from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, based on the "photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS)" method.

[0142] The D50 particle size is measured when the evaluation algorithm is a “cumulant analysis”.

[0143] 0.5 g of the emulsion is placed in a 250 ml beaker, 100 ml of demineralized water are added and mixing is carried out to obtain the test solution. The test solution is placed in the measuring cuvette (or cell) and introduced into the measuring device.

[0144] The size D50 corresponds to the particle diameter value at 50% in cumulative distribution.

[0145] For example, if D50 = 170 nm, this means that 50% of the particles have a size greater than 170 nm and 50% of the particles have a size less than 170 nm.

[0146] It should be remembered that this distribution is done by volume. Viscosity measurement method

[0147] Viscosities, particularly of silicone compounds, are measured at 25°C, 1.013 x 105 Pa (1 atm).

[0148] To measure viscosities between 1,000 and 40,000 mPa.s at 25 °C, it is possible to use an Anton Paar rheometer, model MCR101, cylindrical geometry, single spacing: Spindle CC27, shear rate of 1 s 1 for 2 minutes, at 25 °C.

[0149] To measure viscosities between 40,000 and 100,000 mPa.s at 25 °C, it is possible to use an Anton Paar rheometer, model MCR101, cone 25-6 (cone-plate geometry, diameter 25 mm / cone 6°); zero gap, shear rate 1 s 1 for 2 minutes, at 25°C.

[0150] Three measurements are made for each sample, and the viscosity value is taken at 60 seconds. The MCR Rheometer range of products operates in accordance with the USP convention (US Pharmacopeia Convention, 912 - Rotational Rheometer Methods). Method for measuring the amine index

[0151] The amine number can be measured by acid-base titration using a potentiometer [Brand: Veego; Model VPT-MG].

[0152] 0.6 g of the sample is placed in a 500 ml beaker and a 1:1 mixture of toluene-butanol is added, and everything is then mixed.

[0153] The solution is titrated with 0.1 N HCl solution. The determination of the zero value (Vbianc) is also carried out with the 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture alone.

[0154] The amine index is calculated using the formula:

[0155] 56.11 x (V - VBianc) x N / W mg KOH / g of sample,

[0156] with V = volume of HCl required (in ml), VBianc = volume of HCl required for zero value (in ml); N = normality of HCl, i.e. 0.1 and W = mass of the sample (in g)- HLB Values

[0157] The term "HLB" relates to the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant. It can be measured experimentally or calculated.

[0158] In the present patent application, the HLB values ​​are the values ​​at approximately 25°C.

[0159] HLB values ​​can be calculated using the following equation: HLB = (E + P) / 5, where E is the weight percent of oxyethylene and P is the weight percent of polyol, as described in Griffin, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (Volume 5, No. 4), pages 249-256.

[0160] HLB values ​​can also be determined experimentally according to the book by Puisieux and Seiller, entitled "Galenica 5: Dispersed Systems - Volume I - Surface agents and emulsions - Chapter IV - Notions of HLB and of critical HLB, pages 153-194 - paragraph 1.1.2. Experimental determination of HLB, pages 164-180".

[0161] Preferably, the HLB values ​​which will be taken into account are those obtained by calculation, in particular in the following manner: “calculated HLB” = 20 x (molar mass of the hydrophilic part / total molar mass).

[0162] Thus, for an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene units fused to the fatty alcohol and the “calculated HLB” then corresponds to the "Griffin's HLB."

[0163] For an ester or amide, the hydrophilic portion is generally defined as being beyond the carbonyl group, starting with the fatty chain(s).

[0164] HLB values ​​of nonionic surfactants can also be calculated using the Davies formula, as described in Davies JT (1957), “A quantitative kinetic theory of emulsion type, I. Physical chemistry of the emulsifying agent”, Gas / Liquid and Liquid / Liquid Interface (Proceedings of the International Congress of Surface Activity): 426-438.

[0165] According to this formula, the HLB value is obtained by adding the hydrophilic / hydrophobic contribution linked to the constituent groups of the surfactant:

[0166] HLB = (number of hydrophilic groups) - n(number of groups per CH2 group) + 7.

[0167] The HLB values ​​of some cationic surfactants are given in Table IV, in "Cationic emulsifiers in cosmetics", Godfrey, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists (1966) 17, pages 17-27.

[0168] When two surfactants A and B, with known HLB values, are mixed, the HLBMix corresponds to the HLB of the mixture and can be expressed by the following equation:

[0169] HLBMix = (WaHLBa + WbHLBb) / (Wa + WB),

[0170] in which WA is the amount (weight) of the first surfactant A and WB the amount of the second surfactant B, and HLBA and HLBb are the HLB values ​​of surfactant A and surfactant B.

[0171] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the oil-in-water emulsion c) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the oil-in-water emulsion c) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the emulsion has a dry matter (or active matter) content of between 40% and 60% by weight, in particular 45% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0173] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the polydialkyl-siloxane(s) bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, in a total amount ranging from 0.04% to 4% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 3.2% by weight, preferentially from 0.8% to 2.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the amino or amino silicone(s) having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an index of amine from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.04% to 1.6% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] Non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d)

[0176] The fourth essential component of the cosmetic composition of the invention is at least one non-ionic polysaccharide.

[0177] Mention may in particular be made, as polysaccharides according to the invention, of those chosen from glucans, modified or unmodified starches (such as those resulting, for example, from cereals, such as wheat, corn or rice, from legumes, such as yellow peas, or from tubers, such as potatoes or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, agars, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums, carob bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof.

[0178] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) is (are) chosen from starches, guar gums, celluloses and their derivatives, and their mixtures.

[0179] As indicated above, the polysaccharide(s) according to the invention may be modified or unmodified.

[0180] Unmodified guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the names Meypro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by the company Rhodia Chimie.

[0181] Modified non-ionic guar gums are in particular modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0182] Among the C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0183] Such guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0184] The degree of hydroxyalkylation which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2.

[0185] These non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by Rhodia Chemistry or under the name Galactasol 4H4FD2 by Aqualon.

[0186] Among the celluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses are used in particular. Mention may be made of the products sold under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel LHF, Klucel MF, and Klucel G by Aqualon, and Cellosize Polymer PCG-10 by Amerchol.

[0187] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) are chosen from guar gums and / or their derivatives which are non-ionic, for example non-ionic guar gums modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups, and / or their mixtures; more preferably from non-ionic guar gums modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0188] Preferably, the content of non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0189] Preferably, the content of guar gums and / or their derivatives which are non-ionic ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 5%; better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] Fatty substance(s)

[0191] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances as a fifth essential component.

[0192] The expression "fatty substance" means an organic compound which is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly.

[0193] In other words, the expression "fatty substances" designates an organic compound which is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa), in particular with a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight.

[0194] Preferably, the fatty substances which are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.

[0195] The term "non-silicone fatty substance" refers to a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds and the term "silicone fatty substance" refers reference to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.

[0196] The fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0197] The fatty substances which are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. A liquid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa). A solid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa).

[0198] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa).

[0199] More particularly, the fatty substance(s) according to the invention may be chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol, liquid C6 to C16 hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, and liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglyceride oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0200] It is recalled that fatty alcohols, fatty acids and fatty esters contain more particularly at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group, comprising from 8 to 40 and better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0201] The solid fatty alcohols usable in the present invention may be saturated or unsaturated, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. In particular, the solid fatty alcohols correspond to the following formula:

[0202] R-OH

[0203] in which R is a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0204] The solid fatty alcohols usable in the inventive composition are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monoalcohols, in particular linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 atoms, even more preferably from 12 to 24 atoms, more particularly from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. More preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from linear and saturated monoalcohols comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0205] The solid fatty alcohols may be used alone or in combination and may be chosen from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0206] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol(s) is(are) chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. More particularly, the solid fatty alcohol(s) is(are) chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0207] The solid fatty esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol which can be used in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from C9-C26 carboxylic acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol esters.

[0208] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched saturated monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may be optionally hydroxylated and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0209] Mention may also be made of esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0210] Examples of such solid esters are cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0211] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, such as myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0212] With respect to the C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, these may be linear, branched or optionally cyclic and are preferably selected from alkanes. Examples that may be cited include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0213] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0214] A non-silicone oil of animal origin that can be cited is perhydrosqualene.

[0215] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from triglycerides of liquid fatty acids including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cucurbit oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid, for example those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and butter oil shea, and their mixtures.

[0216] As regards the fluorinated oils, they can be chosen from perfluoro-methylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoro-morpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.

[0217] The liquid fatty alcohols which are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be cited include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0218] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglyceride oils mentioned above, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0219] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid is branched.

[0220] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0221] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0222] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0223] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; trioctanoate glyceryl; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0224] The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described below.

[0225] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0226] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen, in particular, from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C6 to C30 and preferably in C12 to C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0227] The liquid fatty esters may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0228] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, in particular such as mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate.

[0229] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular mono- or dioleates, -stearates, -behenates, -oleopalmitates, -linoleates, -linolenates and -oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0230] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0231] Preferably, one or more solid fatty substances will be used as fatty substance(s) (e), for example chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly chosen from solid fatty alcohols such as those defined above, optionally in combination with one or more liquid fatty substances such as those defined above.

[0232] More preferably, at least one solid fatty substance is used with at least one liquid fatty substance as fatty substances (e) in the com- cosmetic position of the invention.

[0233] Even more preferably, the at least one fatty substance (e) is a combination of solid fatty alcohol(s) such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and liquid fatty substance(s) such as triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, for example soybean oil.

[0234] Preferably, the total content of fatty substance(s) (e) is in the range of 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0235] Preferably, the total content of solid fatty substance(s) (e) is in the range of 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] Preferably, the total content of liquid substance(s) (e) is in the range of 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0237] The cosmetic composition may further comprise one or more cationic polymers and / or one or more cationic surfactants.

[0238] Cationic polymer(s)

[0239] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more cationic polymers.

[0240] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "cationic polymer" designates any non-silicone polymer (not comprising silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0241] Cationic polymers are not silicone-based (they do not include Si-O units).

[0242] Cationic polymers can be associative or non-associative.

[0243] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a mass weight average molar mass (Mw) between approximately 500 and 5x106 and preferably between approximately 103 and 3x106.

[0244] Among the cationic polymers, we can cite more particularly: 1. homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units corresponding to the following formulae:

[0245] formulas in which: • the R3s, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; • the A's, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; • R4, R5 and R6, which may be the same or different, represent a alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; • R1 and R2, which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; and • X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0246] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), acrylic acids or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0247] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can cite: • copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules, • copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy, • the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, • vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for example Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known under the names Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, • dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylca-prolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP, • vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP; • vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers quaternized such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP; • copolymers of acrylamide and acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, in particular compounds with the INCI name acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer such as the product sold under the name Salcare® SC 60 by BASF or under the name N-DURHANCE AA 2000 by ASHLAND; • polymers, preferably crosslinked polymers, of metha-cryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. 1. cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of ether derivatives of cellulose including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0248] Cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose which have reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group, for example Poly-quatemium-10.

[0249] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropylcelluloses in particular grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt, for example Polyquatemium-4. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

[0250] Among the cationic cellulose derivatives, it is also possible to use cationic associative celluloses, which can be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified by groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0251] Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0252] Preferably, mention may be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VIII):

[0253] in which: • R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q in which Ra, Rb and Rc, which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for example a chloride or a bromide; • R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q' in which R'a, R'b and R'c, which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q'- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for example a chloride or a bromide;

[0254] it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b and R'c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30 alkyl; • n, x and y, which can be the same or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10,000.

[0255] Preferably, in formula (VIII), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b or R'c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30 alkyl, better still C10 to C24 alkyl, or even C10 to C14 alkyl; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radical or radicals represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

[0256] Preferably, in formula (VIII), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b or R'c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30 alkyl, better still C10 to C24 or even C10 to C10 alkyl; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched C1 to C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

[0257] Better still, R may be a group selected from -N+(CH3)3, Q' and

[0258] -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q', preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q'.

[0259] Even better, R' can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q'.

[0260] Aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl.

[0261] We can notably cite the polymers having the following INCI names: • Polyquaternium-24, such as the product Quatrisoft LM 200®, sold by the Amerchol / Dow Chemical Company; • PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product Crodacel QM®; • PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (Ci2 alkyl), such as the product Crodacel QL®; and • PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C[8 alkyl), such as the product Crodacel QS®, sold by the company Croda.

[0262] Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VIII) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH3)3N+-, Cl and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2(C12H25)N+-, Cl. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Poly-quatemium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from the company Amerchol / Dow Chemical.

[0263] More particularly, the polymers of formula (VIII) are, for example, those whose viscosity is between 2,000 and 3,000 cPs inclusive, preferably between 2,700 and 2,800 cPs. Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2,500 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2,700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2,700 cPs and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2,800 cPs. It is also possible to use Softcat Polymer SX-1300X whose viscosity is between 1,000 and 2,000 cPs.

[0264] Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and US 4,031,307, and guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups may be mentioned. For example, guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride) may be used. Such products are sold in particular under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17, Jaguar C162 or Jaguar Excel by the company Rhodia. These compounds bear the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. 1. polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. 2. Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides may be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they may be quaternized; 3. polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Examples include adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz. 4. polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer. 5. cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers including, as the main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to the formula (IX) or (X):

[0265] formulas (IX) and (X) in which: • k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; • Rn denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; • R10 and R11b independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C1 to C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and Ru may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and • Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[0266] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) sold, for example, under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and its homologues of low weight average molar masses) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and acrylamide, such as polyquatemium-7, notably sold under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat 7SPR. 1. quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:

[0267] formula (XI) in which: • Rn, Ru, Ris and Ri6, which may be the same or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively Rn, Ru, R[5 and R[6, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising-

[0268]

[0269]

[0270]

[0271]

[0272] tively a second non-nitrogen heteroatom, or alternatively Rn, Ru, R[5 and R[6 represent a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl radical, substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a -CO-O-Rp-D group or - CO-NH-Rp-D where Rn is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; • Ai and B i represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted into the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and • X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Ab Rn and R[5 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; furthermore, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi can also denote a group (CH2)nCO-D-OC-(CH2)n- in which D denotes: a. a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2-CH2-O)X-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2 -CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b. a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c. a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or alternatively the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2; or d. a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-. Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100,000. We can cite more particularly polymers consisting of repeated units corresponding to the formula: (IX} formula (XII) in which Rb R2, R3 and R4, which may be the same or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing approximately 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from approximately 2 to 20, and X is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0273] A compound of formula (XII) which is particularly preferred is that for which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA). 1. polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (XIII): R™ r — N+ - (CH4r- NH - CO - (CHX - CO - NH {CHA - N+- A — X-^ ' ' ' I. RÏS (X) x R21

[0274] formula (XIII) in which: • R18, R19, R20 and R2[, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)POH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R[8, R[9, R20 and R2[ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, • r and s, which can be the same or different, are whole numbers between 1 and 6, • q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34, • X denotes an anion, such as a halide, and • A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -ch2-ch2-o-ch2-ch2-.

[0275] Examples that may be cited include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® ADI, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol. 1. Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, for example the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF. 2. polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced as Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary. 3. polymers including in their structure: a. one or more patterns corresponding to formula (A) below: —CFU—CH— ' 1 a. optionally one or more patterns corresponding to formula (B) above- below: —CH—CH — ' | (8) HH — CH 11 O

[0276] In other words, these polymers may in particular be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide. 1. and their mixtures.

[0277] Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) is (are) chosen from those of families (1), (2) and (7) and their mixtures.

[0278] More preferably, the cationic polymer(s) is (are) chosen from copolymers of acrylamide and acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums and cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers including, as the main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (IX) or (X), and mixtures thereof.

[0279] More preferably still, the cationic polymer(s) is (are) chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylamide copolymers, cationic galactomannan gums, such as guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, preferably guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride), polyquatemium-7 and mixtures thereof.

[0280] Advantageously, when the cationic polymer(s) is / are present, the total content of cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0281] Cationic surfactant(s)

[0282] The cosmetic composition may further comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

[0283] They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0284] Examples of quaternary ammonium salts which may be cited in particular include: • those corresponding to the following general formula (XIV):

[0285] in which the groups R 1 to R 4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 1 to R 4 denoting a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are selected, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy (C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido-(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl; X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates and (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

[0286] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (XIV), those which are preferred are, on the one hand, the tetraalkylammonium salts, for example the dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, the stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, the stearamidopyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or the stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by Van Dyk. It is particularly preferable to use the chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds; • imidazoline quaternary ammonium salts, such as, for example, those of formula (XV) below: (XV) P / CHjCHg—N(R^—CO—Rj. JX" \ / R, s JJ

[0287] in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes a methyl group and R8 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by Rewo;

[0288] - quaternary di- or triammonium salts in particular of formula (XVI):

[0289] in which R9 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R10 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R9a)(Ri0a)(Riia)N-(CH2)3,

[0290] R9a, Rioa, Riia, Ru, Ri2, Rb and R[4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0291] X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0292] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, made available by Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, made available by Finetex (Quaternium 75); • quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (XVII) below: (XVII) O ” ~ t HU R, J;—Rîg X fu

[0293] in which: • R15 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and hydroxyalkyl groups or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl; • R[6 is chosen from: • the group • the R2o groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups, • a hydrogen atom, • Ri8 is chosen from: • the group • R22 groups which are linear C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups or branched, saturated or unsaturated, • a hydrogen atom,

[0294] Rn, R19 and R2[, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups;

[0295] r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

[0296] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0297] x and z, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

[0298] X is a simple or complex anion, organic or mineral;

[0299] provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then Ri6 denotes R2o and that when z is 0, then R[8 denotes R22.

[0300] The alkyl groups in R15 can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

[0301] Preferably, R[5] denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0302] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

[0303] When R[6 is a hydrocarbon group R20, it can be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0304] When R[8 is a hydrocarbon group R22, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0305] Advantageously, Rn, R19 and R2[, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0306] Preferably, x and z, which may be the same or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0307] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0308] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly equal to 2.

[0309] The anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly a methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, can be used. such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with ammonium bearing an ester function.

[0310] The anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0311] More particularly, the ammonium salts of formula (XVII) are used in the composition according to the invention, in which: • R45 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, • x and y are equal to 1; • z is equal to 0 or 1; • r, s and t are equal to 2; • Ri6 is chosen from: • the group • methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, • a hydrogen atom; • Ri8 is chosen from: • the group • a hydrogen atom;

[0312] Rn, R19 and R2i, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0313] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0314] Examples which may be cited include compounds of formula (XVII) such as diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or methyl sulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

[0315] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably a methyl or ethyl sulfate), a methyl methanesulfonate, a methyl para-toluenesulfonate, a chloro- glycol rohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0316] Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® from Henkel, Stepanquat® from Stepan, Noxamium® from CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 from Rewo-Witco.

[0317] The composition according to the present invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts, with a majority by weight of diester salts.

[0318] It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function which are described in patents US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180.

[0319] Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.

[0320] Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0321] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function which can be used, it is preferable to use dipahnitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.

[0322] The expression “fatty amines” designates a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or its salts and comprising at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon chain, preferably Cg-Cso.

[0323] Preferably, the fatty amines to be used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0324] As fatty amines, amidoamines may be mentioned.

[0325] The amidoamines according to the invention can be chosen from fatty amidoamines, knowing that the fatty chain can be carried by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0326] The term “amidoamine” designates a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0327] The expression "fatty amidoamine" designates an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines to be used according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0328] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines to be used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0329] Among the fatty amidoamines to be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula (XVIII) below:

[0330] RCONHR"N(R')2 (XVIII)

[0331] in which: • R represents a substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical; • R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and • the R', which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0332] The fatty amidoamines of formula (XVIII) are chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine sold by Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, sojamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocatamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, visonamidopropyl dimethylamine, avoinamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0333] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamido-propyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0334] The cationic surfactant(s) is (are) preferably chosen from those of formula (XIV), those of formula (XVIII), and mixtures thereof, more preferably from salts, such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyldimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; stearamidopropyl dimethylamine; brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0335] Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0336] The cationic surfactant(s) is (are) preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight and even more preferably from 0.15% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0337] The composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.

[0338] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a total water content ranging from 50% to 99% by weight, more preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, better still from 65% to 85% by weight, and better still from 70 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0339] Optional adjuvant(s)

[0340] The composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.

[0341] Among the additives that may be used, mention may be made of reducing agents, thickeners, softeners, moisturizers, UV filtering agents, peptizers, solubilizers, perfumes, proteins, vitamins, polymers other than the polymers described above, preservatives, oils, waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0342] The above adjuvants are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01% and 40% by weight, and preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition of the invention.

[0343] It goes without saying that a person skilled in the art will take care to select this (these) optional adjuvant(s) in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or not significantly, negatively affected by the addition(s) envisaged.

[0344] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for cleaning and revitalizing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, which consists of applying to said keratinous fibers a cosmetic composition as described above, and after an optional exposure time, optionally removing it by rinsing, for example with water.

[0345] The exposure time of the composition on the keratinous fibers can range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.

[0346] The composition can be applied to wet or dry keratinous fibers.

[0347] Preferably, the cosmetic composition is not rinsed with water.

[0348] Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention as described above for cleaning and / or revitalizing keratinous fibers.

[0349] In the above description, all preferred embodiments regarding the components can be used individually or in combination.

[0350] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention. EXAMPLES

[0351] In the examples which follow and, unless otherwise indicated, the quantities are given as percentages by weight of active ingredient (AI) relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1

[0352] The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients in the amounts indicated in Table 1 below.

[0353] [Tableauxl] Composition 1 (% by weight) 2 (% by weight) Sodium laureth sulfate 13.9 13.9 Cocobetaine 1.2 1.2 Cetrimonium chloride - 0.4 Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine 0.4 - Silicone emulsion* (Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 stearate (and) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3) 4% emulsion (0.4% amodimethicone + 1.6% dimethicone) 4% emulsion (0.4% amodimethicone + 1.6% dimethicone) Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer 0.1 0.1 Polyquaternium-7 0.35 0.5 Chloride Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltriammonium 0.5 0.5 Hydroxypropyl Guar 0.5 0.5 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 2.5 - Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil - 3.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.0 1.0 Preservatives qs qs Sodium Chloride 3.5 3.5 Water Qs 100 100

[0354] The procedure for preparing the silicone emulsion* is described in Example 1 of WO 2017 / 108824. It contains dimethicone, amodimethicone, non-ionic surfactants and water. Example 2

[0355] The following compositions, composition 3 according to the invention and comparative composition 4, were prepared from the ingredients in the quantities indicated in Table 2 below.

[0356] [Tables2] Composition 3 (according to the invention) (% by weight) 4 (comparative) (% by weight) Sodium laureth sulfate 13.90 13.90 Cocobetaine 1.20 1.20 Cetrimonium chloride 0.4 0.4 Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 stearate (and) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3 4% emulsion (0.4% amodimethicone + 1.6% dimethicone) 4% emulsion (0.4% amodimethicone + 1.6% dimethicone) Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylamidopropyl copolymer 0.1 0.1 Polyquaternium-7 0.5 0.5 Hydroxypropyl guar chloride hy-droxypropyltriammonium 0.5 0.5 Hydroxypropyl guar 0.5 - Carbomer - 0.5 Glycine soja (soybean) oil 3.0 3.0 Cetearyl alcohol 1.0 1.0 Preservatives qs qs Sodium chloride 1.2 1.2 Water Qs 100 100 Viscosity (cps) 557 355

[0357] Comparative composition 4 has a thin consistency, does not have the texture of whipped cream and appears more liquid while composition 3 according to the invention is stable and resembles whipped cream.

[0358] The viscosity of each composition was measured using a rheometer with M4 spindle at a temperature of 25 °C, for 30 s and at a speed of 200 rpm. The results are shown in Table 2 below.

[0359] Composition 3 is thicker and more viscous than composition 4.

[0360] 1.2 g of composition 3 and 4 were applied respectively to 6 strands of Medium-length, 20 cm, 3 g bleached Indian hair. Shampoo was gently massaged into the hair, working through each strand, and then rinsed with water. Each strand was run between two fingers to remove excess water. Measurements were taken under humid conditions.

[0361] In addition, the hair strands were dried in an oven at 60°C for 10 minutes for each gram of hair. The measurements were carried out under dry conditions.

[0362] The smooth texture was appreciated in both wet and dry conditions.

[0363] Smooth texture measurement protocol;

[0364] The principle of the method is to measure the friction force of a strand of hair between two folded bio-skins (simulation of the human perception of touch between 2 fingers). The strand is placed between two scrapers which exert constant pressure. In a vertical downward pulling movement, it measures the friction force along the length of the strand. The strand of hair is pinched between two half-cylinders with bio-skin on each of the surfaces, which is more relevant for consumer gestures and the perception of smooth texture on the hair.

[0365] In this regard, a Dia Stron MIT 175 device was used. A strand of hair was attached to the force sensor of the device. The strand was then placed between two scrapers which exert constant pressure. In a vertical downward pulling movement, the friction force is measured along the length of the strand.

[0366] Smoothness is measured in terms of force (N). The higher the force, the less smoothness.

[0367] This study is conducted on 3 strands of hair for each composition and 15 data points were evaluated.

[0368] The results are shown in Table 3 below.

[0369] [Tables3] Composition 3 (according to the invention) Composition 4 (comparative) Smooth texture in wet Average value 1.20 1.38 Standard deviation 0.13 0.14 Smooth texture in dry Average value 0.53 0.65 Standard deviation 0.08 0.05

[0370] Significance was concluded based on an independent sample T-TEST (5% significance level).

[0371] Composition 3 according to the invention is significantly better than com- comparative position 4 in terms of smooth texture in wet and dry state.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: (a) one or more anionic surfactants, (b) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (c) an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, the size being expressed by volume, and comprising: - a mixture of silicones comprising: (i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes carrying trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably from 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C, more preferably from 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C, (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine index ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone; - a mixture of surfactants comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16; and - water; (d) one or more non-ionic polysaccharides, and (e) one or more fatty substances.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the anionic surfactant(s) (a) is (are) chosen from anionic surfactants of alkyl sulfate type, preferably from salts of alkyl sulfates, alkylamide sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates and mixtures thereof, with the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 28 carbon atoms; the aryl group denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; and these compounds being optionally polyoxyalkylenated, and preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (b) is (are) chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C3-C8 alkyl)betaines, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines and mixtures thereof.

4. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the silicone mixture comprises: (i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing terminal groups trialkylsilyl, having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, in an amount of 70% to 90% by weight, preferably from 75% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture, and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in an amount of 10% to 30% by weight, in particular from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oil-in-water emulsion c) has a particle size D50 of between 100 and 300 nm, preferably between 150 and 250 nm, more preferably between 160 and 200 nm, the particle size D50 being expressed by volume.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oil-in-water emulsion c) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) is (are) chosen from guar gums and / or their non-ionic derivatives, and / or their mixtures; more preferably from non-ionic guar gums modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) is from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty substance(s) (e) is (are) one or more solid fatty substance(s), preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof, optionally in combination with one or more liquid fatty substances, and more preferably a combination of solid fatty alcohol(s) such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and fatty substance(s) liquid(s) such as triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, preferably soybean oil.

10. Cosmetic treatment process, in particular for cleaning and revitalizing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, consisting of applying to said keratinous fibers a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, and optionally, after an optional exposure time, removing it by rinsing, for example with water.