LEPTOSPERMUM POLYGALIFOLIUM HONEY EXTRACT AND ITS USE AS A COSMETIC AGENT

Abstract

The invention relates to the cosmetic use of a Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract as an active agent for improving the aesthetic appearance of a scar present on healthy skin. The scar may be of any type, in particular an acne scar. The invention also relates to cosmetic compositions and methods for improving the aesthetic appearance of a scar using a Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract.

Description

Title of the invention: LEPTOSPERMUM POLYGALIFOLIUM HONEY EXTRACT AND ITS USE AS WHAT COSMETIC AGENT Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic active ingredients and their uses, in particular for attenuating or reducing the visual appearance of a skin scar. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] The skin is the first barrier protecting the body from external aggressions. This organ is composed of several layers of tissue. We distinguish (i) the epidermis which is the outermost part of the skin, (ii) the dermis, a connective tissue made up of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix which ensures the functions of cohesion and nutrition of the skin, and (iii) the hypodermis made up of adipocytes.

[0003] The epidermis is made up of several cellular strata of keratinocytes. We distinguish, among others, the germinative layer of the epidermis, called the basal layer, containing, in particular, the cutaneous stem cells, the spinous layer, Stratum spinosum, made up of several layers of polygonal cells, the granular layer, Stratum granulosum, comprising one to three layers of flattened cells containing cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyaline grains, and finally, the horny layer, Stratum corneum which is composed of anucleated and keratin-rich cells called corneocytes which correspond to the terminal stage of differentiation of keratinocytes.

[0004] The outermost cells of the stratum corneum are continually shed and replaced by cells from a lower layer, in a process called desquamation. Cell regeneration of the stratum corneum is based on a process of cell maturation in which cells from the basal layer of the epidermis differentiate and gradually migrate through the different strata of the epidermis until they reach the stratum corneum in the form of corneocytes.

[0005] Furthermore, the cells of the stratum corneum are linked together by epidermal lipids. These lipids create a protective barrier and have a hydro-retaining power. The epidermis is, in addition, covered with an emulsion of water and lipids (fats), called the hydrolipidic film. This film, renewed by the secretions of the sebaceous and sweat glands, helps to keep the skin supple and acts as an additional barrier against pathogens and irritants. Much more than an external envelope, the skin is a real organ providing a function barrier that protects our body against multiple external attacks, whether microbiological, chemical or mechanical.

[0006] When the skin barrier is broken, for example following an injury, a healing process is immediately triggered. Healing is a physiological process involving biological mechanisms involving numerous growth factors, adhesion molecules, cell migration and matrix remodeling and degradation enzymes. The processes implemented can be modulated in particular depending on the origin of the lesion that triggered the healing mechanism.

[0007] Healing can therefore be impacted by many factors, which influence the visual appearance of the final scar. For example, an overproduction of connective tissue, particularly collagen, can lead to a raised scar. Sunken scars are generally observed when the skin has been the site of a skin condition associated with deep inflammation that has altered the skin matrix. Hyperpigmented scars can result from prolonged exposure to the sun during the healing process.

[0008] Scars can therefore take on different aspects. They can be sunken scars, raised scars or even colored scars, e.g. hypo-, hyper-pigmented or pinkish.

[0009] Different methods have been evaluated to make scars less visible. Depending on the type of scar (raised, sunken and / or pigmented), laser treatments, treatments to flatten the skin, for example using silicone plates or compression garments, silicone and panthenol-based gels to be applied using a massage ball or cosmetic creams, notably sold under the name "anti-mark cream" or "anti-scar cream" are proposed.

[0010] Nevertheless, there is currently a need for gentle cosmetic methods to reduce the appearance of scars. Summary of the invention

[0011] The invention relates to the cosmetic use of a honey extract from Leptospermum polygalifolium as an active agent for improving the aesthetic appearance of a scar present on healthy skin.

[0012] Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract can be used in particular:

[0013] - to reduce, attenuate or fade the appearance of a scar present on a healthy skin,

[0014] - to reduce the surface area and / or volume of the scar, and / or

[0015] - to normalize the color of the scar.

[0016] The extract according to the invention can be used on any type of scar. It can be a sunken scar or a raised scar, and / or a scar characterized by hypo- or hyper-pigmentation

[0017] For example, the scar may be selected from an acne scar, an eczema scar, a surgery scar, a burn scar, an injury scar, and a piercing scar, a tattoo scar, and a stretch mark.

[0018] In a particular embodiment, the honey extract of Leptospermum polyga-lifolium is used as an active agent for attenuating or reducing the appearance of an acne scar, in particular for flattening, reducing the surface area and / or attenuating the color of an acne scar.

[0019] In certain embodiments, the scar, in particular the acne scar, is present in a subject with dark skin, preferably of phototype IV, V or VI.

[0020] Typically, Leptospermumpolygalifolium honey extract is present as an active agent in a cosmetic composition. Its content in the cosmetic composition may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0021] In a particular embodiment, the Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is an aqueous extract or a hydroalcoholic extract, preferably obtained by extraction with a water / glycerin mixture.

[0022] Leptospermum polygalifolium honey may be present as an active agent in any type of cosmetic composition. This may include a makeup product or a care product, for example a lotion, a milk, a serum, an aqueous or oily gel, an emulsion, a cream, a gel-cream, an ointment, a balm, a cerate, a foundation, or a blush.

[0023] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition intended to improve the aesthetic appearance of a scar present on healthy skin comprising from 0.01% to 10% by weight of aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium honey.

[0024] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for reducing or improving the appearance of a skin scar present on healthy skin, comprising the application of a Leptospermumpolygalifolium honey extract, for example an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract, preferably in the form of a cosmetic composition, to the scar. FIGURES

[0025] [Fig.l] shows the results of the evaluation of 1TTA° at the level of the scars after 4 and 8 weeks of application of the placebo cream or the test cream at the level of the scar (average results obtained for all the volunteers in half-face).

[0026] [Fig.2] shows the results of evaluation of 1TTA° at the level of scars after 4 and weeks of application of the placebo cream or the test cream to the scar for dark-skinned volunteers.

[0027] [Fig.3] shows the results of evaluating L* (brightness) at the scar level after 4 and 8 weeks of application of the placebo cream or the test cream to the scar (average results obtained for all volunteers on the half-face).

[0028] [Fig.4] shows the results of evaluation of a* (redness) at the level of the scars after 4 and 8 weeks of application of the placebo cream or the test cream to the scar (average results obtained for all volunteers on the half-face).

[0029] [Fig.5] shows the reduction in scar area after 4 and 8 weeks application of the placebo cream or the test cream at the scar level (average results obtained for all volunteers on the half-face).

[0030] [Fig.6] shows the reduction in scar area after 4 and 8 weeks application of placebo cream or test cream to the scar area for dark-skinned volunteers.

[0031] [Fig.7] shows the results of the clinical evaluation carried out by a Dermatologist concerning the appearance of scars after 4 and 8 weeks of application of the placebo cream or the test cream to the scar (average results obtained for all volunteers on the half-face).

[0032] [Fig.8] shows the results of the clinical evaluation carried out by a Dermatologist regarding the appearance of scars after 4 and 8 weeks of application of the placebo cream or the test cream to the scar for volunteers with dark skin.

[0033] [Fig.9] shows a diagram representing the results of the self-assessment study volunteers after 8 weeks of application of the placebo cream and the test cream on half of the face. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0034] The genus Leptospermum includes about 80 species of plants belonging to the Myrtaceae family. These are mainly bushes, trees and shrubs, most of which are endemic to southern Australia. There are also species native to New Zealand and Southeast Asia. Leptospermums generally have evergreen foliage and numerous small flowers. The best-known species is Leptospermum scoparium, a species endemic to New Zealand. Monofloral honey obtained from the nectar of Leptospermum scoparium flowers, also known as Manuka honey, is used in the medical field as an antibacterial and wound-healing agent. Pharmaceutical-grade Manuka honey dressings and ointments have been developed for the treatment of wounds.

[0035] There are other honeys made from Leptospermum nectar, including Jelly bush honey. Jelly bush honey is a honey made primarily from the nectar of Leptospermum polygalifolium, a species endemic to Australia.

[0036] Leptospermum polygalifolium nectar honey (or jelly bush honey) has been studied much less than Manuka honey. Some studies have shown that jelly bush honey also exhibits high antibacterial activity due to its high methylglyoxal (MGO) content resulting from the high dihydroxyacetone (DHA) content present in the nectar.

[0037] The literature thus suggests that jelly bush honey has antibacterial activities. However, Leptospermum polygalifolium honey is clearly different from Manuka honey. Studies have shown that Leptospermum polygalifolium honey has a composition (quantitative and qualitative) of volatile and non-volatile compounds distinct from that of Manuka honey (Beitlich et al., Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 2014, 62, 6435-6444). Beitlich et al. thus note that jelly bush honey differs from Manuka honey in particular by its higher levels of methoxybenzoic acid, cis-linalool oxide, and 3,4,5-trimethylphenol, the presence of unknown compounds, and its lower level of methoxyacetophenone.

[0038] Generally speaking, plants belonging to the genus Leptospermum exhibit great diversity. The same is true for the composition of their nectar, and consequently that of the honey prepared from it. For example, the DHA content and the DHA / sugar ratio in nectar vary greatly from one species to another. (Williams et al., Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 2018, 66(42):11133-11140). The biological activities of honeys derived from Leptospermum nectar therefore also vary from one species to another.

[0039] Surprisingly, the Applicant has shown that Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extracts are capable of attenuating or reducing the visual appearance of skin scars acquired over several months, i.e. once the healing process is complete. The Applicant has thus shown that the daily application of a cream comprising a Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract made it possible to attenuate or even fade the appearance of scars acquired over more than 6 months, after only 4 weeks of application of the cream. Remarkably, the cream comprising a L. polygalifolium honey extract made it possible to reduce the surface area and relief of acne scars and to make them less visible by attenuating their coloring, in particular by reducing their pigmentation and redness (Example 2, Figures 1-6). The effect is particularly visible for scars present on dark skin of phototype V or VI (Figures 2 and 6).These results, obtained by spectrophotometric analyses of the skin, were confirmed by an evaluation. clinical study carried out by a Dermatologist, before and after treatment (Figures 7 and 8). Finally, the volunteers were able to observe a clear attenuation of the scars present on the half-face treated with the composition including Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract. The majority of volunteers therefore concluded that the test cream was more effective than the placebo cream in reducing the visual appearance of the scars. The test cream proved particularly effective in reducing the size and surface area of ​​scars, in flattening raised scars and in reducing the color of hyper-pigmented scars. The majority of volunteers concluded that the test cream generally improved their skin by evening out its tone and smoothing its appearance. Furthermore, the volunteers noted that the test cream had a more pleasant texture than the placebo cream without Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract.

[0040] Thus, according to a first aspect, the Invention relates to the cosmetic use of a honey extract from Leptospermum polygalifolium as an agent for attenuating or reducing the appearance of a skin scar.

[0041] Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is intended for topical application and exerts a cosmetic effect.

[0042] In the context of the present invention, the honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium is not intended to exert a healing activity or an antibacterial activity. The invention therefore does not relate to antibacterial treatments or treatments for skin healing.

[0043] The skin scar is present on a region of healthy skin, in particular on a region of skin not presenting an open wound, nor a wound in the process of healing, nor a skin infection, nor inflammation.

[0044] The term “an agent for attenuating or reducing the appearance of a skin scar” means a cosmetic agent or active ingredient capable of improving the aesthetic appearance of a scar, for example by making it less visible.

[0045] For the purposes of the Invention, the term “skin” designates any part of the skin of the human body, in particular the skin of the face, including the lips and eyelids, the scalp, the neck, the skin of the hands and the skin of the feet.

[0046] For the purposes of the invention, the term “healthy skin” means skin which does not have any lesions (i.e. unhealed lesions) or pathology such as a skin infection.

[0047] The term "scar" means the mark left on the skin once the healing process of a lesion (e.g. a wound) is complete. In other words, a scar corresponds to the scar tissue formed at the location where the skin has healed following a trauma such as a wound. The healing process is generally considered to be complete after 6 months or even a year. For the purposes of the invention, the scar corresponds to healthy scar tissue (healthy scar). For example, the scar is not associated with painful or irritating sensations. The scar is not inflammatory.

[0048] The scar may have different visual aspects: the scar may have a particular pigmentation compared to the surrounding skin, such as depigmentation, hyperpigmentation or a pink, reddish or purplish coloration.

[0049] Additionally or alternatively, the scar is distinguished from the rest of the skin by its thickness. The scar may be hollow, i.e. it may have a depression, a thinning compared to the rest of the skin. Alternatively, the scar may be a raised scar, i.e. it may have a thickening compared to the rest of the skin, for example a swelling.

[0050] For example, the scar may be a flat scar characterized by a red appearance or hyperpigmentation such as a pigment spot.

[0051] As an additional example, the scar may be a raised scar such as a blistered scar.

[0052] The term "cosmetic effect" is generally understood to mean any non-therapeutic effect aimed at modifying and / or improving the appearance of the skin. In the context of the present invention, the term "cosmetic effect" is understood to mean the fact of attenuating or reducing the appearance of a scar, that is to say the fact of making a skin scar less visible. The honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium can be used in particular to obtain one or more of the following cosmetic effects:

[0053] - reduce the surface area of ​​a scar

[0054] - reduce the relief of a scar, for example reduce the volume or flatten a raised scar or smoothing a hollow scar,

[0055] - attenuate / fade the color of a scar, for example reduce pigmentation of a scar, or even reduce the red appearance of a scar

[0056] - homogenize the color of the skin in an area of ​​skin with a scar,

[0057] - reduce / fade scar marks on the skin.

[0058] More generally, the honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium can be used as a cosmetic agent to even out skin with scars, for example to homogenize the color of skin with scars. The extract according to the invention can also be used to smooth skin with scars (e.g., sunken and / or raised scars).

[0059] The invention also relates to the use of a honey extract from Leptospermum polygalifolium to improve the aesthetic appearance of a skin scar, for example by making said scar less visible.

[0060] The scar may result from the normal healing mechanism of any type of lesion. For example, the scar may result from the healing of a lesion chosen from an acne lesion (e.g. acne pimple), an eczema lesion, a surgical incision, a burn, a crack, a split, an injury (e.g. graze, cut, scrape, scratch, nick), a tattoo and a piercing.

[0061] The scar can also result from damage to the dermis without tearing of the upper layers of the skin, during stretching of the skin e.g. due to pregnancy or sudden weight gain. In other words, the scar can be a stretch mark.

[0062] In some embodiments, Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is used to lessen or reduce the appearance of an acne scar.

[0063] There are several types of acne scars, including brown spots (or hyperpigmentation spots), sunken scars that appear like small craters or ice pick-shaped, narrow and deep, and raised scars that are generally puffy and reddish.

[0064] Skin that has suffered from acne can therefore present numerous scar marks, which can lead to skin having an uneven color, a rough appearance or even a pockmarked appearance.

[0065] In a particular embodiment, the Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is used to obtain one or more of the following cosmetic effects:

[0066] - reduce the surface area of ​​an acne scar,

[0067] - reduce the color of an acne scar, in particular make it less red or less dark an acne scar,

[0068] - reduce the volume, or even flatten a raised acne scar

[0069] - smooth the skin, or even restore thickness to a hollow acne scar.

[0070] More generally, Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract can be used as a cosmetic agent to smooth and / or even out the complexion of skin with acne scars. Leptospermumpolygalifolium honey extract can be used in particular to reduce the pockmarked appearance of skin that has suffered from acne.

[0071] In some embodiments, Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is used to lessen the appearance of a scar resulting from an acne lesion.

[0072] For the purposes of the invention, acne lesions (or spots) include, but are not limited to, comedones, such as blackheads, papules, pustules and nodules.

[0073] The use according to the invention can be implemented on any type of skin, as long as the skin is healthy (i.e. does not present pathologies or unhealed lesions). In particular, the subject does not experience an outbreak of acne when implementing the invention, but may have a few acne spots in a region separate from the place where the scar is located.

[0074] The subject can be of any age or gender. The subject is generally at least 6 months, more preferably at least 3 years.

[0075] In some embodiments, the subject has a history of acne or is acne-prone.

[0076] The clinical study showed that the extract according to the invention was particularly effective in reducing scars present on matte or dark skin.

[0077] In certain embodiments, the extract according to the invention is used on matte or dark skin, preferably of phototype IV, V or VI, more preferably of phototype V or VI.

[0078] In the context of the present invention, the term "skin phototype" means the classification into phototypes based on the reactivity of the skin to the sun as described in Fitzpatrick, Arch. Dermatol, 1988, 124(6):869-71. This classification defines six skin phototypes ranging from I to VI.

[0079] In the context of the present invention, the term "Leptospermum polygalifolium honey" or "jellybush honey" means a honey obtained from the nectar of Leptospermum polygalifolium. It is preferably a honey harvested in Australia.

[0080] It goes without saying that Manuka honey, which is a monofloral honey obtained from the nectar of Leptospermum scoparium, is not a honey of interest in the context of the present invention.

[0081] The honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium is obtained from said honey by any known extraction process, for example using an organic solvent, preferably polar, or a supercritical fluid, for example by supercritical CO2.

[0082] Preferably, the honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium is an aqueous extract or a hydroalcoholic extract.

[0083] For the purposes of the invention, a hydroalcoholic extract refers to an extract whose manufacturing process comprises a hydroalcoholic extraction step, i.e. an extraction using a water / alcohol mixture.

[0084] For the purposes of the invention, the term “alcohol” includes lower alcohols, in particular C2-C5, polyols such as glycerin and C2-C5 alkanediols and mixtures thereof.

[0085] For example, the alcohol may be selected from glycerin, ethanol, propanol, butanol, isomers thereof such as isopropanol, tert-butanol, pentanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, and mixtures thereof. Preferred solvents are ethanol, isopropanol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] The “alcohol / water” volume ratio in the hydroalcoholic mixture is typically in a range from 0.1 to 10.0, for example from approximately 0.5 to approximately 5.

[0087] In a particular embodiment, the extract according to the invention is obtained, for example traction by a glycerin / water mixture, preferably according to a glycerin / water mass ratio of 1.0 to 4.0, preferably 1.5 to 3.0, for example 1.9 to 2.5. The solvent / honey mass ratio may be in a range from 8 to 2, preferably 3 to 5.

[0088] The honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium can be obtained by a process comprising one or more steps of dissolving in water or a hydroalcoholic solution followed by a filtration step to remove insoluble residues.

[0089] In certain embodiments, the Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract may be obtained by a method comprising:

[0090] - A step of solubilization of a Leptospermum polygalifolium honey in a hydroalcoholic solvent, for example in a water / glycerin mixture, and

[0091] - A step of filtration of the mixture obtained to eliminate any possible residues in soluble.

[0092] In a particular embodiment, the Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract can be obtained by a process comprising the following steps:

[0093] (i) Dissolving the honey in water, and heating the resulting mixture to a temperature between 70°C and 100°C

[0094] (ii) Cooling the mixture and filtering at a temperature above 40°C, so as to eliminate any insoluble residues,

[0095] (iii) Addition of a solvent chosen from alcohols as defined above, preferably glycerin, and

[0096] (iv) Filtration of the mixture thus obtained.

[0097] The porosity of the filter used in step (iv) is generally lower than that of the filter used in step (i).

[0098] The method according to the invention may comprise additional steps such as sterilization steps, a concentration step, a formulation step, or even a packaging step.

[0099] By way of example, the extract according to the invention can be prepared as follows: the honey of Leptospermum polygalifolium is suspended in water. Typically the honey / water mass ratio is in a range from 0.5 to 1.5, preferably from 0.6 to 1.0.

[0100] The mixture is stirred and heated to a temperature between 70°C and 100°C, preferably between 80°C and 100°C. The heating time may vary from a few minutes to a few hours, for example from 5 min to 2 h, typically for 5 to 1 hour or from 5 min to 30 min. The mixture is cooled, typically to a temperature between 40°C and 60°C, then filtered to remove any insoluble residues (for example on an Ipm filter). The alcohol is added to the filtrate. Preferably, the alcohol is glycerin and the glycerin / water ratio is about 1.9 to 2.5. After stirring, the resulting mixture can be filtered (typically with a filter having pores smaller than the filter used during the first filtration - eg 0.5 µm).

[0101] The extract thus obtained can be used as such as an active cosmetic ingredient. For example, the cosmetic ingredient resulting from the process described above can have the following INCI name (when the alcohol used is glycerin): Water (and) Glycerin (and) Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract. Typically, the extract according to the invention is prepared according to a “honey” / “total solvent” ratio of 0.1 to 0.4, preferably 0.15 to 0.3.

[0102] Total solvent refers either to water (if the extraction is aqueous only) or to the water / alcohol mixture (if the extraction is hydroalcoholic).

[0103] A marker of the quality of Leptospermum polygalifolium honey is lep-tosperin. In some embodiments, the honey comprises at least 10 ppm of leptosperin.

[0104] In certain embodiments, the extract according to the invention is applied to the skin in the form of a cosmetic composition.

[0105] Thus, the extract according to the invention is typically integrated into a cosmetic composition as an active cosmetic agent. The extract according to the invention represents at least 0.01%, for example at least 0.1% by weight of the composition. The extract is generally present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0106] The extract according to the invention is generally used in an amount corresponding to a starting honey amount of approximately 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 2.0% by weight, for example 0.1% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0107] Said composition, which is also an object of the present invention, may comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

[0108] Cosmetically acceptable excipients generally represent at least 50%, for example at least 60%, 70% or 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0109] They may represent from 50% to 99.9999% by weight, preferably from 60% to 99.9995%, for example from 70% to 99.995% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] The composition may further comprise one or more additional active ingredients with a cosmetic effect.

[0111] Typically, said cosmetic composition comprises:

[0112] - from 0.01% to 10% of extract according to the Invention,

[0113] - from 0% to 20% of one or more additional active agents with a cosmetic effect, and

[0114] - from 70% to 99.99% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients,

[0115] the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0116] In certain embodiments, said composition comprises

[0117] - from 0.5% to 5% by weight of an extract according to the Invention,

[0118] - from 0.1% to 10% of one or more additional active agents with a cosmetic effect, and

[0119] - from 85% to 99.4% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

[0120] The term "active ingredient with a cosmetic effect, active agent with a cosmetic effect, cosmetic agent or active ingredient with a cosmetic effect" means a compound capable of exerting at least one cosmetic effect on the skin or its appendages. The additional active agent may exert any non-therapeutic effect aimed at modifying and / or improving the appearance of the skin or mucous membranes such as the lips, protecting them from external aggressions, or preventing and / or correcting phenomena linked to their aging.

[0121] The additional active agent(s) with a cosmetic effect may be chosen from the group consisting of vitamins, sunscreens and filters, anti-aging agents, anti-redness agents, emollient agents, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, scrubbing or exfoliating agents, mattifying agents, sebum-regulating agents, lightening active ingredients, anti-blemish active ingredients, anti-blemish agents, moisturizing agents and combinations thereof.

[0122] As examples of moisturizing agents, mention may be made of urea, pidolic acid (PCA) and its derivatives, in particular its salts such as arginine PCA, chitosan PCA, its copper salts (Copper PCA), magnesium salts (magnesium PCA), sodium salts (sodium PCA) or zinc salts, ethylhexyl PCA, calcium gluconate, hyaluronic acid and its salts and other glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid, fructose, glucose, isomaltose, lactose, trehalose, polydextrose, sucrose (Sucrose), maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol and other carbohydrates and derivatives, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-10, PEG-12 or PEG-14, glycerin, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, butanediol, betaine, citrulline, collagen and its derivatives, histidine, silk, keratin or soy hydrolysates, plant extracts rich in polysaccharides and / or polyphenols, for example Aloe extracts,cornflower (Centaurea cyanusf and combinations thereof. ,

[0123] As lipid-replenishing or nourishing agents, mention may be made of vegetable oils such as olive oil, sweet almond oil, evening primrose oil, borage oil, shea butter, fatty acids, triglycerides, and ceramides.

[0124] Examples of emollient agents include coconut oil, cetearyl alcohol, petrolatum, liquid paraffin, lanolin, polyglycerides of fatty acids and combinations thereof.

[0125] As sebum-regulating agents, mention may be made of rice powder, zinc gluconate, sarcosine, avocado extracts, red clover extracts, Cinnamomum zeylanicum bark extracts and Australian Bakhousia citriodora leaf extracts.

[0126] Examples of anti-blemish agents include vitamin A, retinoids, salicylic acid, Melaleuca altemifolia essential oil and combinations thereof.

[0127] Examples of soothing agents include allantoin, panthenol, bisabolol, extracts of aloe, marigold (Calendula officinalis), birch (e.g. Betula albd), oat seedlings, licorice, or willow herb (Epilobium angustifolium).

[0128] Examples of antioxidant agents include HMR (hydroxy methyl re-sorcinol), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, BHT (Butyl Hydroxy Toluene), vitamin B9, histidine hydrochloride, vitamin E and its derivatives, or an extract of willow herb (Epilobium augustifolium).

[0129] As anti-redness agents, mention may be made of saponins, flavonoids, rus-cogenins, esculosides, and extracts containing them, for example extracts of Ruscus, as well as certain essential oils, for example rosemary.

[0130] Examples of anti-stain agents include extracts such as licorice (Glycyrrhyza glabra), jackfruit extract (Artocarpus heterophyllus), Rumex extract (R.occidentalis), plant extracts belonging to the citrus genus, re-sveratrol, peptides such as oligopeptide-68, nonapeptide-1, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Dunaliella Salina extracts, in particular obtained by supercritical fluid, Cistus Incanus extracts, in particular aqueous extracts, and combinations thereof.

[0131] The cosmetically acceptable excipient(s) present in the cosmetic composition may be chosen from diluting agents, dispersing agents, gelling agents, emollients, vectorizing agents such as polycationic polymers or phospholipids, gums, resins, solvents in particular lower alcohols including ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, glycerin, sorbitol, and propylene glycol, fillers such as modified and polymerized starches, titanium dioxide, or a metal stearate, preservatives, essential oils, pearlescent agents, colorants, odor absorbers, pH regulating agents or neutralizing agents, lubricating agents, thickening agents, surfactants including anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-amphoteric surfactants. ionic, humectants such as glycerin or sorbitol,wetting agents, dispersing agents, perfumes, organic or mineral pigments such as iron oxides, oily agents such as oils or fats of vegetable origin, greases, of animal origin, synthetic oils such as petroleum jelly, silicone oils, fatty alcohol esters, fluorinated oils, waxes, modified clays, bentonites, metallic salts of fatty acids, silica, mica, preservatives, vehicles such as mineral, thermal or floral water, and / or other substances commonly used in formulation in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical field.

[0132] The extract according to the invention can be incorporated into any type of composition. Preferably, it is a composition having a form suitable for topical administration, in particular suitable for application to the skin. Said cosmetic composition can be in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, multiple emulsions (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O), nanoemulsions, in particular O / W nanoemulsions, aqueous gels, dispersions or even a powder.

[0133] The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a lotion, a milk, a cream, an ointment, a balm, a gel, a mousse, a solution, a serum, or a powder,

[0134] More generally, the composition according to the invention may also be in the form of a cosmetic or dermocosmetic product of any type. It may be a cosmetic treatment, or a makeup or body hygiene product, for example a lotion, a milk, a serum, an aqueous or oily gel, an emulsion, a cream, a gel-cream, a treatment water, an ointment, a balm, a foundation, a spray, a stick, a mousse, or a mask.

[0135] For illustration, the extract may be present in a facial care cream.

[0136] The extract according to the invention can be incorporated as such into the cosmetic composition according to the invention, in particular when the extract is obtained by extraction with a water / glycerin mixture.

[0137] It goes without saying that the composition according to the invention is intended to exert any of the cosmetic effects described in relation to the honey extract of Leptospermum poly-galifolium, in particular to improve the aesthetic appearance of a scar, in particular to reduce or make less visible a cutaneous scar present on healthy skin. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is in particular intended to normalize the color of a scar, or to reduce the surface area and / or volume of a scar present on healthy skin. The scar can be of any type. Preferably it is an acne scar.

[0138] An additional subject matter according to the invention is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic method of a subject comprising administering a cosmetically effective amount of an extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium as described herein, according to the invention, topically to said subject. The extract is typically applied to the area to be treated, namely on the scar, in the form of a cosmetic composition described above.

[0139] The cosmetic process according to the invention is implemented to obtain one or more cosmetic effects as described above.

[0140] It is notably used to improve the aesthetic appearance of a scar, to make a scar less visible, to normalize the color of a scar, or to reduce the surface area and / or volume of a scar present on healthy skin. The scar can be of any type. Preferably it is an acne scar.

[0141] In the cosmetic methods and uses according to the Invention, the dose to be administered and the frequency of administration of the extract according to the Invention vary according to the desired cosmetic effect, the area of ​​application, the characteristics of the individual, in particular their sex, age and skin type, or the characteristics of the scar.

[0142] Typically, the extract according to the invention can be applied in the form of a cosmetic composition 1 to 2 times per day. The application is repeated until the desired effect is obtained, e.g. until the appearance of the scar is improved. Typically, the cosmetic treatment according to the invention lasts at least one week, preferably at least 4 weeks, for example at least 8 weeks or even at least 3 months.

[0143] The application is generally carried out on clean skin, in the morning and / or evening.

[0144] The application can be carried out by massaging the skin manually or using a massage system, for example a massage ball. For example, the application can be carried out by circular massages using the index finger at the scar level, for 2 to 3 minutes.

[0145] By way of example, the subject can apply a dose of 0.5 g to 2 g of cosmetic composition comprising from 0.5% to 5% by weight of extract according to the Invention to his face, morning and evening, in particular when the subject has acne scars on the face.

[0146] Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear on reading the following examples, which must be considered as illustrative and in no case as limiting. EXAMPLES

[0147] Example 1: preparation of the extract according to the invention

[0148] Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is obtained in the following manner.

[0149] 100 mg of honey from Leptospermum polygalifolium harvested in Australia is put into suspension in a suitable quantity of water (water / honey mass ratio: approximately 1.0 to 1.5). The mixture is heated with stirring to a temperature above 90°C until the honey dissolves for about 10 min. The mixture is cooled to a temperature above 40°C and then filtered. Glycerin is then added (glycerin / water mass ratio: approximately 1.8 to 2.6) to the filtrate. The resulting mixture is stirred. The mixture is filtered again. After cooling to room temperature, the mixture is filtered and the extract is thus obtained.

[0150] Example 2: Clinical Trial - Evaluation of an extract of Leptospermum polyga-lifolium as an agent for improving the appearance of skin scars

[0151] The objective of this study is to evaluate the ability of a cream containing an extract of L. polygalifolium honey to improve the appearance of the skin of volunteers with acne scars whose healing process has been completed for 6 to 12 months. Panels

[0152] The study enrolled 21 healthy volunteers, women and men, aged between 18-40 years and multi-phototype:

[0153] 2 volunteers: phototype II

[0154] 8 volunteers: phototype III,

[0155] 2 volunteers: phototype IV,

[0156] 7 volunteers: phototype V, and

[0157] 2 volunteers: phototypes VI.

[0158] Each volunteer had at least 2 clearly visible acne scars on each side of the face dating back 6 / 12 months. The volunteers did not have active acne (no acne outbreak at the time of the clinical trial)

[0159] Among these volunteers, there are 9 volunteers with dark skin of skin phototype V or VI (hereinafter: “Dark-skinned volunteers”).

[0160] Table 1 below shows the creams tested:

[0161] [Tables 1] Ingredients (INCI) Test cream (% by mass) Placebo cream (% by mass) Water 82.30 82.30 Acrylates / C 10-30 0.40 0.40 Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Pro-pylparaben 1.00 1.00 Xanthan gum 0.30 0.30 Capric / Caprylic Triglycerides 14.00 14.00 Glycerin 0.00 2.00 L. polygalifolium (Jellybush honey) honey extract (obtained according to the protocol of example 1) 2.00 0.00 Protocol

[0162] All volunteers applied the test cream twice a day to one half of the face and the placebo cream to the other side for 8 weeks. The tests were carried out in a double-blind fashion. Method

[0163] Skin color and scar assessment

[0164] The brightness (parameter L*) and the redness (parameter a*) of the skin, at the level of the cheek and scars were evaluated on all volunteers. The degree of pigmentation of the skin (parameter ITA°) at the level of the cheek and scars was highlighted on all volunteers and on volunteers with dark skin. These different parameters are determined using a CM-700d spectrophotometer (Konica Minolta) after 4 and 8 weeks of application of the creams.

[0165] The results represent the percentage variation compared to day 0 of the color parameters (redness, brightness and ITA°) obtained 4 and 8 weeks after the application of the test and placebo creams. Measurement of brightness and redness

[0166] The parameters a* and L* are measured using the CIELab color space (1976). This space is inscribed in a slightly flattened sphere whose vertical axis (L*) corresponds to the lightness or brightness and the horizontal planes define the saturation and the hue of a given color: (a*- redness, b*- yellowness)

[0167] A low value of the coordinates of a* indicates a decrease in the redness of the 180 3.14159 skin.

[0168] A high value of the L* coordinates correlates with brighter skin. ITA° measurement

[0169] The ITA° (individual Typological Angle) is used to measure the degree of pigmentation of the skin. This parameter takes into account the brightness (L*) and yellowness (b*) of the skin in the CIELab color space (1976). The ITA° is defined according to the following formula:

[0170] [Math.l] 1TA° = ArcTan^-^ X

[0171] A high FETA0 value indicates very light skin pigmentation. Image analysis

[0172] The VISIA-CR RBX Brown technology was used on an area defined from the photos obtained for the 2 panels. This consists of using the thresholding algorithm (segmentation) to highlight the intensity of the dark pixels from the other characteristics of the image in order to display the percentage of skin occupied by the spots.

[0173] The results represent the variation from day 0 of the percentage of the surface occupied by keloids on the predefined area after 4 and 8 weeks of application of the creams. Clinical evaluation

[0174] According to the established score scale, a dermatologist evaluated after 4 weeks and 8 weeks of application of the creams, the reduction of scars in terms of improvement of colors and reduction of dimensions.

[0175] Table 2 below shows the scale of scores

[0176] [Tables2] Score No variation 1 Slight reduction 2 Moderate reduction 3 Remarkable reduction 4 Self-assessment

[0177] A subjective evaluation questionnaire was completed by the volunteers during the study to assess the effectiveness of the test cream versus the placebo cream. Statistical method

[0178] According to the normality test and the homogeneity of variances test, a parametric test or non-parametric was used. Values ​​are said to be significant when p<0.05 (*p<0.05, **p<0.01, ***p<0.001). RESULTS - ITA° Evaluation: Measurement on the Scar

[0179] The results are illustrated in Figures 1 and 2. Regardless of the panel studied, the application of the test cream containing the L. polygalifolium honey extract significantly increased the dTTA° value at the scars. The L. polygalifolium honey extract reduces the hyperpigmentation of scars and evens out the complexion. - Color evaluation (L*, a*)

[0180] a. Measurement of L* on the scars of volunteers

[0181] The L* parameter is significantly increased after 8 weeks of application of the cream containing the honey extract of L. polygalifolium compared to the placebo cream at the level of the scars ([Fig.3]). The honey extract of L. polygalifolium promotes the brightness of the skin at the level of the scars.

[0182] b. Measurement of a* on the scars of volunteers

[0183] The parameter a* is significantly reduced after application of the test cream containing the honey extract of L. polygalifolium from 4 weeks at the level of the scars and this in a significantly more pronounced manner than with the placebo cream.

[0184] L. polygalifolium honey extract reduces the redness of the volunteers' skin at the scar ([Fig.4]). - Areas occupied by scars

[0185] The surface area occupied by scars after 4 weeks of application of the test cream containing the honey extract of L. polygalifolium is significantly reduced (Figures 5 and 6) compared to the skin treated with the placebo cream.

[0186] L. polygalifolium honey extract therefore reduces the surface area of ​​scars. - Clinical evaluation

[0187] Regardless of the panel studied, the skin specialist identified that the application of the test cream containing the extract of L. polygalifolium improves the skin of volunteers with acne-related scars (Figures 7 and 8). - Self-assessment

[0188] A subjective evaluation questionnaire was completed by the volunteers during the study to assess the effectiveness of the test cream versus the placebo cream. This questionnaire showed that the test cream was significantly more effective than the placebo cream on all items, particularly in reducing and fading scars, evening out skin tone, and giving the skin a smoother appearance. The test cream was also judged to have superior organoleptic qualities to the placebo cream. The results are illustrated in [Fig.9].

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic use of a honey extract of Leptospermum polyga-lifolium as an active agent for improving the aesthetic appearance of a scar present on healthy skin.

2. Use according to claim 1, wherein the Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is used to reduce or lessen the appearance of a scar present on healthy skin.

3. Use according to claim 1, wherein the honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium is used to reduce the area and / or volume of the scar.

4. Use according to claim 1, wherein the honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium is used to normalize scar color.

5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the skin scar is a depressed scar or a raised scar.

6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the skin scar is a raised scar.

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the scar is selected from the group consisting of an acne scar, an eczema scar, a surgery scar, a burn scar, an injury scar, and a piercing scar, a tattoo scar and a stretch mark.

8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is used as an active agent for attenuating or reducing the appearance of an acne scar, in particular for flattening, reducing the area and / or attenuating the color of an acne scar.

9. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the scar is present in a subject with dark skin, preferably phototype IV, V or VI.

10. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium is present as an active agent in a cosmetic composition.

11. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5%. by weight of the cosmetic composition.

12. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is an aqueous extract or a hydroalcoholic extract, preferably obtained by extraction with a water / glycerin mixture.

13. Use according to any one of claims 7 to 10, wherein the honey of Leptospermum polygalifolium is present as an active agent in a cosmetic composition chosen from a makeup product or a care product, for example a lotion, a milk, a serum, an aqueous or oily gel, an emulsion, a cream, a gel-cream, an ointment, a balm, a cerate, a foundation, or a blush.

14. Cosmetic composition intended to improve the aesthetic appearance of a scar present on healthy skin comprising from 0.01% to 10% by weight of aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium honey.

15. A cosmetic method for reducing or improving the appearance of a skin scar present on healthy skin, comprising applying a Leptospermumpolygalifolium honey extract, preferably in the form of a cosmetic composition, to the scar.

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