Cosmetic cleansing composition comprising surfactants
A cosmetic composition using amphoteric surfactants and linear α-olefin sulfonates with a specific ratio provides a transparent, sulfate-free, and stable foam for effective skin cleaning, addressing skin irritation issues in existing products.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024002405
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-03-11
- Publication Date
- 2025-09-12
AI Technical Summary
Existing foaming cleaning products cause skin irritation and are not suitable for sensitive skin types, often containing sulfate surfactants and stabilizers, and lack a transparent, colorless, and stable formulation that maintains effective cleaning and foaming performance.
A cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase with a combination of amphoteric surfactants, linear α-olefin sulfonates, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters, with a weight ratio of betaine amphoteric surfactant to linear α-olefin sulfonate greater than 1, providing a transparent, sulfate-free, and stable foam.
The composition achieves effective cleaning with a creamy, dense, and aerated foam that is gentle on the skin, maintaining transparency and stability without sulfate surfactants, suitable for all skin types including sensitive skin.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic cleansing composition comprising surfactants
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for cleansing the skin and appendages, preferably a shower gel or a cleansing product for the face, body, hands and / or hair, comprising an aqueous phase and a combination of specific surfactants, without sulfate.
[0002] Skin cleansing is very important for skin care. It must be as effective as possible because oily residues such as excess sebum or leftover cosmetic products used daily accumulate in the skin folds and can clog the skin pores and lead to the appearance of pimples. One way to properly cleanse the skin is to use foaming cleaning products.
[0003] Foaming cleaning products currently available commercially are in the form of bars, gels or foaming liquids. They generally contain either soaps, which have the advantage of giving a creamy and voluminous foam but can cause tightness due to their excessive detergency, or foaming surfactants of the syndet type and stabilizers, which are combined together. When these cleaning products are in the form of solid bars such as soaps, they tend to soften as they are used, and to age poorly. In addition, they often break and consumers end up with small pieces of soap that are difficult to use. Therefore, another possible galenic for these cleaning products is the liquid form, often considered more hygienic, easier to transport and simpler to use due to its packaging.In particular, liquid cleaning formulas, transparent and colorless like water, evoking cleanliness and purity, are very popular with users.
[0004] Furthermore, the use of foaming cleaning products currently available on the market can cause a tingling effect and / or skin irritation. More and more users, complaining of having sensitive skin, or of water that is becoming increasingly hard, want to opt for a shower gel that is as gentle as possible for the skin on a daily basis, and preferably formulated without sulfate.
[0005] There is therefore a need to have foaming compositions for cleaning and / or caring for keratin materials, preferably facial and / or body skin, suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and which present in the form of a fluid, for example in the form of a liquid or gel, and in particular have a clear and colorless appearance, which have both good cleaning performance and a pleasant sensory perception in use. In particular, the present invention aims to provide cosmetic cleansing compositions, in particular intended to foam and then be rinsed off, which meet the needs and expectations of users with regard to consistency, texture, and quality of foam, rinsing speed and the most pleasant and comfortable “skin finish” sensation possible after drying.
[0006] Such compositions must be easy to apply to keratin materials, and allow rapid foaming, that is to say the rapid production of an adequate and sufficiently dense and abundant foam, when the composition is applied, generally by rubbing, to said keratin materials, in particular to the skin, or even previously in the hands, possibly moistened beforehand.
[0007] Paradoxically, in contrast to this need for stable and foaming compositions, users expect these same compositions to contain no, or as little as possible, stabilizers, multiple surfactants, or other compounds that are supposed to irritate the skin. They also favor products that appear as natural as possible, whose ingredients are, for example, of plant origin, not derived from petrochemicals.
[0008] The present invention therefore aims to provide such compositions which do not have the drawbacks of the prior art, which are fluid, stable, transparent and colorless, containing as little surfactants and stabilizers as possible, without compromising on foaming and cleaning performance.
[0009] An objective of the present invention is in particular to provide compositions which do not require the use of alkyl ether sulfate compounds, or which are preferably free of Lauryl Ether Sulfate or Laureth Sulfate derivatives, and even preferably free of Lauryl Sulfate, but with an effectiveness and sensoriality close to those of a conventional shower gel based on alkyl ether sulfate compounds.
[0010] The inventors have demonstrated that a composition comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines, at least one linear α-olefin sulfonate, at least one polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester, and in which the weight ratio of betaine amphoteric surfactant to linear α-olefin sulfonate is greater than 1, makes it possible to obtain a liquid, clear and colorless cosmetic formula, in particular a transparent shower gel, while being formulable without sulfate, which meets the aforementioned needs, namely: good cleansing power, a foam which starts quickly, which is abundant, creamy, dense and aerated and which is eliminated very quickly when rinsed, leaving after rinsing and drying soft and not pulled. Thus, the compositions according to the invention have these good qualities of use and creamy foam on application even while having a transparent and colorless liquid appearance at rest, causing an unexpected effect.
[0011] The word "transparent" or "limpid" within the meaning of the present invention means that the composition has a turbidity of less than or equal to 300 NTU. The transparency of a composition can be measured by its turbidity, and NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Units) are the units of measurement of the turbidity of a composition. The turbidity measurement can be carried out, for example, with a model 21 OOP turbidimeter from the HACH Company, the tubes used for the measurement being referenced AR397A cat 24347-06. The measurements are carried out at room temperature (20°C to 25°C). The composition in accordance with the invention has a turbidity generally ranging from 0.1 to 300 NTU, and preferably from 1 to 100 NTU.
[0012] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is “transparent and colorless”, which means that it does not absorb light in the white light spectrum.
[0013] Throughout the description, the term "liquid" means any composition in the form of a more or less thickened or viscous solution, such as a cleansing water, gel, gel-cream, milk, cream.
[0014] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a. an aqueous phase, b. at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines, c. at least one linear α-olefin sulfonate, d. at least one polyoxyethylene sorbitan ester, and
[0015] wherein the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant betaine to linear α-olefin sulfonate is greater than 1.
[0016] It also relates to a method for cleaning keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or face or hair or hands, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined above; preferably characterized in that the composition of the invention is applied to said keratin materials in the presence of water, massaged to form a foam and the foam formed and the dirt residues are removed by rinsing with water.
[0017] Another object of the invention consists of the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above, as a product for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratin materials.
[0018] By “keratin materials” is meant the skin (body, face, neck, hands, lips, eye contour, eyelids, scalp), and appendages such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails; and more particularly the skin, in particular of the body, hands, face, neck, eye area, eyelids, lips and scalp).
[0019] In what follows, the expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more” and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain.
[0020] By "cosmetically acceptable medium" is meant any medium compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to discourage the user from using this composition.
[0021] Furthermore, the composition is stable over time, in particular it is stable (does not vary) on the macroscopic and microscopic levels at a temperature between 4°C and 45°C for two months.
[0022] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of sulfate, in particular free of sulfated anionic surfactants (i.e. free of anionic surfactants comprising at least one sulfate function but not comprising carboxylate or sulfonate functions).
[0023] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “free from” refers to a composition which does not contain (0%) said component, or which contains less than 0.1% by weight of said component, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase
[0024] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
[0025] The aqueous phase contains water.
[0026] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water, such as for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-les-bains water, Avène water. This water is preferably chosen from: a floral water such as cornflower water, or a natural thermal or mineral water, for example chosen from Vittel water, the waters of the Vichy basin, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, Avène water or Aix les Bains water.
[0027] The aqueous phase optionally further contains at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water.
[0028] Water-soluble or miscible solvents suitable for the invention include short-chain monoalcohols, for example C1-C4, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3- butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, sorbitol; and mixtures thereof.
[0029] Preferably, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water, preferably at least one polyol.
[0030] Preferably, the aqueous phase represents from 20% to 97% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight, even better from 40% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0031] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 30% by weight of water, preferably at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.
[0032] Preferably, when it contains at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water, the composition according to the invention comprises up to 15% by weight of organic solvent soluble or miscible in water, preferably it contains up to 10% by weight, preferably up to 7% by weight, out of the total weight of the composition representing 100%. Betaine-type amphoteric surfactant
[0033] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines.
[0034] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants of betaine type of the invention are preferably chosen from alkyl betaines, in particular lauryl betaine such as for example the product GENAGEN KB® from CLARIANT, or coco-betaine such as for example the product Dehyton AB 30® from BASF or TEGO Betain AB 1214 from Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH; and mixtures thereof.
[0035] Preferably, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is coco-betaine.
[0036] The content of active material in amphoteric surfactant(s), preferably chosen from alkyl betaines, is advantageously between 1% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1.2% and 10% by weight, preferably between 1.5% and 5% by weight. Linear alpha-olefin sulfonate
[0037] The cosmetic composition according to the invention therefore comprises one or more linear alpha-olefin sulfonate(s), preferably comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0038] Said alpha-olefin sulfonates are known compounds and are notably described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Chemical Industries or in patent US8211850. These compounds are generally obtained by sulfonation of long-chain alpha-olefins.
[0039] The linear α-olefin sulfonates according to the invention generally comprise, in a known manner, a mixture of linear alkene sulfonates, in particular of formula (A), optionally mixed with linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates, in particular of formula (B).
[0040] Said linear alkene sulfonates can therefore be of formula (A):
[0041] R-CH2-CH=CH-(CH2)n-SO3M
[0042] in which:
[0043] - R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, even better from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;
[0044] - n is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, and even better n=l ;
[0045] - M being a cosmetically acceptable cation, in particular chosen from the cation ammonium, cations derived from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals; and in particular Na+ or K+.
[0046] Preferably, R represents a linear alkyl radical comprising 8 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 12 carbon atoms.
[0047] Preferably, M is derived from an alkali metal, in particular Na+ or K+.
[0048] Preferably, the linear alkene sulfonates according to the invention are of formula:
[0049] [Chem.l] R—0¾—CH—A3H——S~O M+
[0050] in which:
[0051] - R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;
[0052] - M being a cosmetically acceptable cation, in particular chosen from the cation ammonium, cations from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those from alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+.
[0053] The linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates may be of formula (B):
[0054] (B) R'-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-(CH2)n'-SO3M'
[0055] in which:
[0056] - R' is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, even better from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;
[0057] - n' is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, and even better n'=l ;
[0058] - M' being a cosmetically acceptable cation, notably chosen from the cation ammonium, cations from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those from alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+.
[0059] Preferably, R' represents a linear alkyl radical comprising 8 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 12 carbon atoms.
[0060] Preferably, M' is derived from an alkali metal, in particular Na+ or K+.
[0061] Preferably, the linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates are of formula:
[0062] [Chem.2] O |“Q~ M'+ OH q
[0063] in which:
[0064] - R' is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;
[0065] - M' is a cosmetically acceptable cation, in particular chosen from the cation ammonium, cations from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those from alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+.
[0066] Preferably, R and R' are identical.
[0067] Preferably, M and M' are identical.
[0068] Preferably, the linear α-olefin sulfonates according to the invention are chosen from linear α-olefin sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular their alkali metal salts, in particular sodium salts.
[0069] Commercial products that may be mentioned include those offered under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40A or BIO-TERGE AS-40HA by the company STEPAN, or CALSOFT AOS-40 by the company PILOT CHEMICAL, or NANSA LSS38 / FL or FLE by the company INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS.
[0070] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises said linear alpha-olefin sulfonates in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.4 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Polyoxyethylene sorbitan ester
[0071] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester, preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters of saturated, linear or branched C6-C28 fatty acid(s) and having a number of moles of ethylene oxide less than or equal to 100.
[0072] Preferably, said at least one polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester is chosen from esters of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan and fatty acid(s) having from 6 to 28 carbon atoms (C6-C28 fatty acid), preferably having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms (C6-C24 fatty acid), and more particularly from 6 to 16 carbon atoms (C6-C16 fatty acid), preferably from 8 to 14 carbon atoms (C8-C14 fatty acid), and preferably from 10 to 14 carbon atoms (C10-C14 fatty acid). The fatty acids are in particular chosen from lauric acid and stearic acid, and preferably lauric acid.
[0073] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, monoesters of C6-C28 fatty acid and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan are used.
[0074] Preferably, said at least one sorbitan ester used in the composition according to the invention has an average number of moles of ethylene oxide less than or equal to 80, preferably less than or equal to 60, preferably less than or equal to 40, preferably less than or equal to 30, preferably less than or equal to 20. The average number of moles of ethylene oxide of said sorbitan ester ranges more particularly from 3 to 80, preferably from 3 to 60, preferably from 3 to 40, preferably from 3 to 30, preferably from 4 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
[0075] Preferred sorbitan esters are sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide (20OE), sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 4 moles of ethylene oxide (4OE), sorbitan monostearate oxyethylenated with 4 moles of ethylene oxide (4OE), sorbitan monooleate oxyethylenated with 5 moles of ethylene oxide (5OE), preferably sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide (20OE) or polysorbate 20.
[0076] Polysorbate 20 is particularly preferred and is notably marketed under the name TWEEN® 20 by the company CRODA, or TEGO® SML 20 by the company EVONIK.
[0077] The polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) are present in the composition of the invention in a content in the range of 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.2 to 4%, preferably 0.3 to 3%, preferably 0.4 to 2%, preferably 0.5 to 1%, based on the total weight of the composition. Additional anionic surfactants
[0078] Optionally, the composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional anionic surfactants, different from the olefin-sulfonates described above.
[0079] Anionic surfactant is understood to mean a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.
[0080] In the present description, an entity is described as being "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.
[0081] Advantageously, the additional surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants not comprising a sulfate group.
[0082] Preferably, the additional anionic surfactants are chosen from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfonate and / or carboxylate groups, preferably carboxylates.
[0083] The additional anionic surfactant(s) may be oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated. The total average number of ethylene oxide (EO) and / or propylene oxide (PO) groups may then vary from 1 to 50 and in particular from 1 to 10.
[0084] The additional carboxylic anionic surfactants may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0085] C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of acids can also be used polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-alkyl polyglycoside-citrates C24, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosucc inates, and their salts.
[0086] Preferably, said carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
[0087] - acylglutamates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
[0088] - acylsarcosinates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as pahnitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium lauroyl or palmitoyl sarcosinate;
[0089] - acyllactylates, in particular C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
[0090] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;
[0091] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.
[0092] The additional anionic sulfonate surfactants, different from the above linear alpha-olefin sulfonates, which may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function.
[0093] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates, alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0094] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
[0095] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20, especially laurylsulfosuccinates.
[0096] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;
[0097] - (C6-C24) acyl isethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acyl isethionates,
[0098] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.
[0099] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium or calcium salt. As an example of Amino alcohol salts, we can cite salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, salts of mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, salts of 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane. Preferably, the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are used, and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts.
[0100] Preferably, the additional anionic surfactants, when present, are chosen from, alone or as a mixture,
[0101] - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, especially C12-C20;
[0102] - C6-C24 acylglutamates, especially C12-C20;
[0103] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, especially C12-C20;
[0104] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20,
[0105] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;
[0106] - (C6-C24) acyl isethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acyl isethionates,
[0107] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.
[0108] The more particularly preferred additional anionic surfactants may be chosen from carboxylic surfactants, and very particularly from C6-C24, in particular C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium salts, or amino alcohol salts; better still in the form of alkali metal salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts including amino alcohol salts, and / or magnesium salts. Isethionate surfactant
[0109] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one surfactant chosen from isethionic acid derivatives and their cosmetically acceptable salts. This surfactant is also called “isethionate surfactant” in the present application.
[0110] The salt or derivative of isethionic acid may be chosen, for example, from acyl isethionic acids, their salts (isethionates) and their mixtures. Preferably, it is chosen from acyl isethionic acid salts in which the hydrocarbon chain R of the acyl group RC=O is linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 11 to 20 carbon atoms. The acyl group may in particular be chosen from lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl, oleoyl groups and their mixtures.
[0111] By "cosmetically acceptable salts" is meant that the hydrogen atom of the SO3H group of isethionic acid is replaced by a cation X, for example chosen from alkali metal ions such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K; alkaline earth metal ions such as Mg; ammonium groups; and mixtures thereof.
[0112] In particular, mention may be made of the compounds of formula (I):
[0113] RC(=O)-C(R2)(R3)-C(R4)(R5)-SO3X (I)
[0114] in which R and X have the same meaning as above, X can also be H+,
[0115] and RI, R2, R3, R4 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl group, preferably linear, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0116] Examples that may be mentioned include compounds bearing the INCI name sodium cocoyl isethionate, for example those marketed under the names Hostapon SCI and Hostapon STCI by the company Clariant, and in particular the following compounds: Hostapon SCI-78 C, Hostapon SCI-85 C, Hostapon SCI-78 P, Hostapon STCI-85 C, Hostapon STCI-85 G or Hostapon STCI-85 P; also compounds marketed under the name Elfan by the company Akzo, such as in particular Elfan AT 84 G, Elfan AT 84 or Elfan AT 90 G.
[0117] Mention may also be made of ammonium cocoyl isethionate, such as that marketed by the company BASF under the name Jordapon ACI-30.
[0118] Mention may also be made of commercial mixtures comprising sodium cocoyl isethionate such as those marketed by Clariant under the name Hostapon SCI-65C, Hostapon SCI-40 L and Hostapon STCI-65 C, or Biobase SMC from the company Tri-K industries, Jordapon Cl 65 from BASF.
[0119] Preferably, the isethionate surfactant is sodium cocoyl isethionate.
[0120] When present, additional anionic surfactants, such as or the isethionate surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention at a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 8%, better still from 0.8 to 5% by weight, even better still from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0121] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises all of the anionic surfactants in a total amount ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, better still from 3 to 7% by weight and preferentially from 3 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0122] Preferably, the weight ratio of the quantity of linear α-olefin sulfonate (i) to the quantity of anionic surfactant(s) other than the compounds (i) is greater than 1, preferably between 1.2 and 10, in particular between 1.5 and 8, or even between 2 and 7, even better ranging from 3 to 6.
[0123] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is said to be 'sulfate-free', that is to say that it does not comprise (contains 0%) anionic surfactant comprising a sulfate group, such as for example alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates.
[0124] Furthermore, in the composition according to the invention, the total content of betaine amphoteric surfactant(s) is greater than the content of linear α-olefin sulfonates, which is itself greater than the content of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s).
[0125] Furthermore, when the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one isethionate surfactant, the total content of betaine amphoteric surfactant(s) is greater than the content of linear α-olefin sulfonates, which is itself greater than the content of isethionate surfactant, itself greater than the content of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s).
[0126] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a content respectively between:
[0127] - 60 and 95%, preferably between 70 and 90% of water,
[0128] - 1 and 10%, preferably between 1.5 and 5% of at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen among the betaines, preferably with the INCI name COCO-BETAINE,
[0129] - 0.1 and 10%, preferably between 0.5 and 5% of linear α-olefin sulfonate(s),
[0130] - 0.1 and 5%, preferably between 0.2 and 2% of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s),
[0131] and possibly
[0132] - 0 and 3%, preferably between 0.2 and 2%, of isethionate surfactant. Nonionic surfactants
[0133] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.
[0134] They may preferably be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols and alkyl(Cl-20)phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups being able to range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups being able to range from 2 to 30; or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0135] Preferably, the composition according to the invention uses one or more surfactants having, at 25°C, an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), in the sense of Griffin, greater than or equal to 8, more particularly an HLB greater than or equal to 10, preferably greater than or equal to 12, preferably greater than or equal to 13, used alone or as a mixture. The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem., 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.
[0136] Mention may in particular be made of oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups) of glycerol; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular of C8-C24 and preferably C12-C18 alcohols), such as the oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol comprising 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30"), oxyethylene ether of stearyl alcohol comprising 20 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "Steareth-20") and oxyethylene ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "C12-15 Pareth-7"), marketed under the name Neodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals; fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acid) and polyethylene glycol (which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units), such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate, marketed under the name Myrj 52P® by ICI Uniquema; fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acid) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 250 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups), such as oxyethylene glyceryl monostearate (200 EO) with the INCI name PEG-200 GLYCERYL STEARATE, marketed under the name Simulsol 220™® by Seppic;polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate comprising 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product Tagat S® marketed by Goldschmidt, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate comprising 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product Tagat 0® marketed by Goldschmidt, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate comprising 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product Varionic LI 13® marketed by Sherex, polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate comprising 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product Tagat L® marketed by Goldschmidt, and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate comprising 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product Tagat 1® from Goldschmidt;fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acid) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups), commonly referred to as “carbohydrate-based esters (CBE)”. Examples of said carbohydrate-based esters, but not limited to, are polysorbate 20, marketed under the name Tween20® by Croda, polysorbate 21, sold under the name Tween21® by Croda or polysorbate 60, sold under the name TweenôO® by Croda; dimethicone copolyol such as that sold under the name Q2-5220® by Dow Corning; dimethicone benzoate copolyol (Finsolv SLB 101® and 201® from Fintex). Examples of such surfactants are provided in US 2012 / 042894; poloxamers, which are copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide. ;
[0137] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the total amount of active material of surfactants is between 5% and 20% by weight, preferably between 6% and 15% by weight, preferably between 6% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0138] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a salt, in particular an electrolyte.
[0139] The electrolyte is preferably sodium chloride.
[0140] Preferably, the content of active material in electrolyte is between 0.2% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.7% and 2% by weight.
[0141] The compositions in accordance with the present invention may further comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, in particular chosen from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, oils, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, humectants, active ingredients, perfumes, preservatives, sequestrants, pearlescent or opacifying agents, pigments, pearlescent agents, mineral or organic fillers such as talc, kaolin, silica powders, soluble colorants, propellants or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field.
[0142] The quantities of these different adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field considered, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants as well as their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the properties sought for the composition of the invention.
[0143] Among the oils, mention may be made of vegetable oils such as olive oil, safflower oil, cumin oil and in particular black cumin oil (nigella), sweet almond oil or even essential oils, such as mint essential oil or peppermint essential oil. These oils may be present in an amount of active ingredient of between 0.0001% and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.001% and 0.5% by weight.
[0144] Preferably the composition of the present invention comprises less than 1% oil, preferably less than 0.5% oil, or even better does not comprise oil, which contributes both to the light and non-greasy feel and to a transparent appearance of the composition.
[0145] By "oil" is meant here an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg; i.e. 1,013.105 Pa), that is to say which has a solubility in water of less than 5% by weight and preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.1%. These compounds have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the oils are soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example ethanol. Furthermore, oils are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg; or 1,013.105 Pa).
[0146] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may have a transparent or slightly translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance.
[0147] Transparency can be measured by measuring the transmittance with an absorption spectrometer in the visible region, i.e., at any wavelength between 400 and 800 nm. In the present description, transparency is measured using a Hach 2100Q portable turbidimeter at 25°C. The portable turbidimeter uses the nephelometric principle of turbidity measurement. Nephelometric turbidity measurement depends on the detection of light scattered by particles suspended in the liquid. The unit of measurement is the NTU. A cylindrical cuvette of height x diameter: 60 cm x 25 cm made of borosilicate glass with a screw cap is used. The required sample quantity is 15 ml. The measuring range is 0-1000 NTU. The samples are measured undiluted.
[0148] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention preferably has a turbidity in the range of 1 to 300 NTU, preferably 1 to 200 NTU, and preferably 5 to 100 NTU. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is perfectly transparent, which corresponds to a turbidity index of less than or equal to 100 NTU.
[0149] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention forms a rinse-off care product, such as a shower gel, or a cleansing water.
[0150] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity (measured in s by test A described below) of at least 60s, preferably at least 80s and sufficiently fluid, i.e. without exceeding 200s,
[0151] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity in the range of 60 to 200 s, preferably 80 to 200 s, preferably 80 to 180 s, preferably 100 to 150 s, measured by the following test A:
[0152] A consistometric cup is used, for example the VF2050 consistometric cup from Labomat, with a diameter of 6 mm (“CF6”). 150 ml of composition are placed in the cup, then the whole thing is thermostated to 25°C + / - 0.5°C.
[0153] Then, the cup is placed on a horizontal support, and a beaker is placed underneath on a scale. The flow time is timed so that 90g + / - 0.5g of composition falls to a standardized height of 20 cm into the beaker. The standardized height of 20 cm corresponds to the distance between the lower end of the consistometric cup and the surface of the scale. The measurement can only be considered significant for a continuous flow of these 90 g.
[0154] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a gel, in particular a transparent aqueous gel, such as a hydrophilic gel or hydrogel.
[0155] In particular in the case where the composition is in the form of a gel, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one thickening polymer hydrophilic. The hydrophilic thickening polymer suitable for implementing the present invention is advantageously chosen from: - polysaccharides. Among the polysaccharides suitable for implementing the invention, mention may be made of heterogeneous polysaccharides.
[0156] According to the present invention, the term "heterogeneous polyholoside" means polymers consisting of the combination of different oses or oses having the same crude chemical formula but of different geometric configuration (D and L isomers for example). These polymers are distinguished both from polyheterosides, which consist of one or more oses and a non-carbohydrate part, and from homogeneous polyholosides, which result from the combination of the same ose. Thus, the heterogeneous polyholoside according to the invention consists solely of oses and results from the combination of at least two different oses. The polyholosides according to the invention may consist of 2 to 10 oses, compounds commonly called oligoholosides, or of more than 10 oses, compounds commonly called polyholosides.
[0157] The oses present in the polyholoside according to the invention can be chosen from all the oses that can be envisaged, of natural or synthetic origin, and in particular such as:
[0158] - aldoses such as pentoses: ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiose for example, hexoses: glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose for example,
[0159] - ketoses such as fructose,
[0160] - deoxyoses, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose,
[0161] - ose derivatives such as uronic acids like mannuronic acids, guluronic, galacturonic or glucuronic, or even itols such as mannitol or sorbitol.
[0162] The polyholoside according to the invention can be branched or linear. It can also be substituted, for example by fatty chains, in particular comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms.
[0163] On the other hand, the polyholoside according to the invention may be an alginate (polymannuronate or guluronate) such as a sodium alginate, a propylene glycol alginate, a calcium alginate, or a glyceryl alginate. However, the heterogeneous polyholoside preferably comprises at least one fucose unit, which may be present in an amount of 10-90% by weight, preferably 15-35% by weight, relative to the weight of dry matter of polyholoside.
[0164] In particular, the polyholoside according to the invention may comprise fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, and, for example, may comprise a linear chain of aL-Fucose, aD-Galactose and galacturonic acid. In this case, it preferably has a viscosity of 800-1200 mPa.s (Brookfield viscosity LV31, 12 rpm, at 30°C) when dissolved in water at a concentration of approximately 1% by weight. Such a polyholoside is in particular available in the form of a solution in water from the company SOLABIA under the trade name Fucogel 1000 PP® or Fucogel 1.513®.
[0165] Among the polysaccharides, we can also cite polysaccharides such as:
[0166] - algae extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans, agar agars, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans include Satiagum UTC30® and UTC10® from Degussa; alginates include sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by ISP,
[0167] - gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum and their derivatives non-ionic (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac or mannan gum, Tragacanth gum, Ghatti gum, Karaya gum, carob gum; examples include guar gum marketed under the name Jaguar HP105® by Rhodia; mannan and konjac gum ® (1% glucomannan) marketed by GfN; xanthan gum marketed under the name KELTROL CG-T® by CP Kelco.
[0168] - modified or unmodified starches, such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, vegetables such as blond peas, tubers such as potatoes or cassava, tapioca starches; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; examples include Remy DR I® rice starch marketed by Remy; Be corn starch from Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethyl aminodipropionic acid neutralized with soda marketed under the name Structure Solanace® by National Starch; native tapioca starch powder marketed under the name Tapioca pure® by National Starch;
[0169] - dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index® of National Starch Company;
[0170] - celluloses and their derivatives, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; we can cite in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses. Examples include cetyl hydroxy ethyl cellulose under the names Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Aqualon.
[0171] - and mixtures thereof.
[0172] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, said at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer suitable for use in the composition according to the invention comprises: polysaccharides, branched or linear, substituted or not, such as aldoses, ketoses, deoxyoses, ose derivatives such as uronic acids, itols, alginates, or polysaccharides; and mixtures thereof.
[0173] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, said at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer is a gum, preferably a xanthan gum.
[0174] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and preferably is free of acrylic polymer(s), in particular crosslinked anionic acrylic polymer(s), such as crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0175] Advantageously, the hydrophilic thickening polymer(s) is (are) present in the composition according to the invention in an active material (AM) content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0176] The compositions according to the invention have a final pH preferably in the range of 4 to 8 depending on the chosen application. The pH can be adjusted to the desired value conventionally by adding a base (organic or mineral) to the composition, for example ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or by adding a mineral or organic acid, preferably a carboxylic acid such as, for example, citric acid. The composition according to the invention preferably has a pH in the range of 4 to 6.
[0177] The compositions of the invention can be packaged according to the chosen application in the form of a bottle, tube, pump bottle, or any other packaging method suitable for a liquid washing composition.
[0178] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additional compound(s) mentioned above and / or their quantities in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.
[0179] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.
[0180] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting. In these examples, the quantities of the ingredients are given in % by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition. EXAMPLES
[0181] Example 1: Preparation and Comparison of the sensory performances of compositions according to the invention and of comparative compositions Preparation of compositions#:
[0182] The compositions Exl according to the invention and the comparative compositions Cp2 to Cp7 (outside the invention) used in the examples were prepared by mixing the ingredients in water, according to the contents indicated in the following table 1.
[0183] [Tables 1] INCI US Exl (% p / P) Cp2 (% p / P) Cp3 (% p / P) Cp4 (% p / P) Cp5 (% p / P) Cp6 (% p / P) Cp7 (% p / P) WATER Qsp 1 00 Qsp 1 00 Qsp 1 00 Qsp 1 00 Qsp 1 00 Qsp 1 00 Qsp 1 00 COCO-BETAINE 3.00 3.00 1.00 - 3.00 3.00 COCAMIDOPROPYL BE TAINE 3.00 SODIUM C14-16 OLEFI N SULFONATE 1.00 1.00 3.00 1.00 - 1.00 SODIUM LAURETH SU LFATE 1.00 POLYSORBATE 20 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 -
[0184] Conclusion: All the compositions obtained are transparent and stable for 2 months at 45°C.
[0185] Evaluation of the sensory performance of the compositions
[0186] Protocol: The sensory performances of compositions Exl, Cp2 to Cp7 were measured by a panel of 15 trained evaluators. More precisely, according to the protocol the application of each composition is carried out on the hand and on the arm. These two areas are previously cleaned. The aim of this test is to evaluate each composition with a gesture as close as possible to that carried out by users in the shower.
[0187] Evaluation criteria: the sensory performances of each composition were evaluated according to 6 criteria rated on a scale of 1 to 5 by each evaluator according to the following test protocol and evaluation grid:
[0188] Before starting the test and between each product tested, wash your hands with mild soap (Anios Laboratory). Then wring your hands vigorously 3 times before each test.
[0189] Phase 1: Application of the product and formation of foam
[0190] The water temperature is 38°C and the flow rate is medium.
[0191] Wet your forearm past the elbow. Apply 1g of product (previously weighed in a cup) to the palm of your hand. Make 3 circles in your hand to lather. Make 15 back and forth movements (on the inside of your forearm), lathering the product between your hands with each stroke.
[0192] Development of foam (or start of foam): speed of appearance of the first bubbles. It is evaluated in number of round trips (a / r) necessary to obtain foam. 1st / 2nd a / r = 5; 3rd / 4th a / r = 4; 5th / 6th a / r = 3; 7th / 8th a / r = 2; 9th / 10th a / r = 1; no foam = 0. We expect a value greater than 2.5.
[0193] Amount of foam: Volume of foam generated. To assess this, gather all of the foam in the palm of your hand. Score from 1 (very little) to 5 (very much).
[0194] Cushion effect: (or mattress effect) allows you to evaluate the firmness and creaminess of the foam: To evaluate it, rework the foam for 3 seconds, and note the ability of the foam to hold on the tip of the index finger without running. The mattress effect ranges from 1 (no hold, not very firm foam, very little creaminess) to 5 (very good hold, very firm foam, very creaminess).
[0195] Phase 2: Rinsing the arm
[0196] Rinsability: Under the shower (medium flow), rinse your arm with your hand and assess the
[0197] speed of disappearance of the product (tactile sensation): this should be indicated by a top, notation in seconds; very easy (less than 5 s) = 5; easy (between 5 and 10 s) = 4; medium (between 10 and 15 s) = 3; slow (between 15 and 20 s) = 2; very slow (more than 20 s) = 1.
[0198] Squeaking: Rubbing noise when passing the hand over the skin while it is still wet after rinsing the composition. Very squeaking = 5; quite squeaking = 4; moderately squeaking = 3; slightly squeaking = 2; not squeaking = 1.
[0199] Phase 3: Drying
[0200] Dab your arm with a terry towel.
[0201] Skin finish: A score out of 5 is obtained based on the following 5 evaluation criteria: - Immediately after drying
[0202] Sticky feeling: yes / no, corresponds to score 0 / 1
[0203] Feeling of clean skin: yes / no, corresponds to score 1 / 0 - 2 minutes after drying and takes into account 3 parameters
[0204] Sensation of tightness: yes / no, corresponds to the score 0 / 1
[0205] Sensation of softness: yes / no, corresponds to the score 1 / 0
[0206] Sensation of deposit on the skin (film-forming): yes / no, corresponds to score 1 / 0
[0207] The average sensory results for each of the criteria are presented in the following table:
[0208] [Tables2] Sensory criterion Exl Cp2 Cp3 Cp4 Cp5 Cp6 Cp7 Foam development 3.8 2.8 3 2.5 1.8 3 2.8 Foam quantity 4.4 3.2 3 3.5 1.6 3 3.2 Cushion effect 4 2.6 2.8 2.6 1.2 2 2.6 Rinsability 4 3.6 3.6 3.8 4.2 4 3.8 Crispness 2.4 2.8 3.2 3 3.4 2.6 3 Skin finish 3.8 3.2 3 3 3.6 3.6 3.6
[0209] Conclusion: a greater quantity and better quality of foam, better smoothness of the composition (cushion effect), lower perceived detergency, notably through less squeaking and a softer “skin finish”, were noted for the composition Exl according to the invention in comparison with the other comparative Cp formulas (outside the invention). Example 2#: Comparison of visual appearance
[0210] [Tables3] Visual aspect Exl Cp4 Transparency (yes / no) yes yes Color (without / yellow) without yellow Stability (2 months at 45°C) yes yes
[0211] Conclusion: The composition according to the invention Exl, with a coco-betaine / sulfonate weight ratio greater than 1, allows the production of a clear, colorless formula, with no variation in this appearance even after 2 months at 45°C. The composition of Exl is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. On the contrary, the Cp4 formula, with the inverse ratio, is the most detergent, and has a prohibitive yellow coloration.
[0212] Example 3: Comparison of foam abundance performance
[0213] The foam abundance performances of compositions Exl, Cp2 and Cp3 were evaluated in the laboratory according to the following protocol:
[0214] The test is carried out using a mechanical platform which, with the assistance of an operator, allows a foam to be generated at different dilutions of the sample, and this foam to be quantified. Dilutions of the compositions to be tested are made in 100ml of Evian water, at 4%. They are then stirred for 10 minutes using a magnetic stirrer. The beaker containing each solution is placed in a Machine compartment in which the mixture is kept agitated. A foamer pump is placed horizontally, with the tube in the diluted sample. The machine can perform 10 pumps, the foam falling into an empty beaker. This beaker is placed in a light booth, with parameters maintained at the same level for each test, and is photographed to quantify the foam by image processing using Algostore software. For each dilution carried out, there are 3 generations of foam which allow the calculation of an average and a standard deviation for each value obtained. This provides information on the reproducibility and reliability of the technique. The results are given in foam height, in percentages.
[0215] The results are given by the following table:
[0216] [Tables4] % Dilution Average (%) of foam height Standard deviation (%) Exl 4 54.00 2.00 Cp2 4 36.33 1.53 Cp3 4 43.00 1.73
[0217] For a 4% dilution, the results are significant and a clear difference is observed in terms of foam quantity: Exl > Cp3 > Cp2. Example 4#: Transparency measurement:
[0218] Transparency measurement protocol:
[0219] Apparatus and characteristics: A 2100Q turbidimeter from HACH COMPANY is used. Sample cells made of borosilicate glass, 60 mm high and 25 mm diameter circular base with screw cap.
[0220] Measurement method: Determination of the turbidity ratio by a primary nephelometric light scattering signal (90°) versus a transmitted light scattering signal (Source lamp: Tungsten filament lamp, Detector: Silicon photodiode, Measurement ranges: 0 - 1000 NTU).
[0221] Measurements: Introduce the formula to be analyzed into a clean and undamaged sample cell up to the line and then wipe the cell with a soft, lint-free cloth to remove fingerprints and water marks. Apply a thin film of silicone oil and wipe with a soft cloth to obtain a regular film over the entire surface. The measurement is carried out at room temperature on a horizontal and fixed work surface. Before each measurement, check that the sample is completely homogeneous (without air bubbles).
[0222] Gently invert the sample cell and then insert it into the cell compartment of the instrument so that the diamond or orientation mark aligns with the raised mark on the front of the cell compartment. Close the lid. Press Measure. An average of 5 measurements on the HACH 2100Q Turbidimeter is taken.
[0223] Result: A formula is said to be perfectly transparent if and only if in the test described it presents a turbidity less than or equal to 100 NTU.
[0224] The turbidity measurement results are shown in Table 5:
[0225] [Tables5] Exl CP2 CP3 CP4 TURBIDITY (NTU) <100 100-300 100-300 100-300
[0226] The composition according to the invention Exl has a transparency greater than that of the compositions outside the invention (Cp2, Cp3, Cp4).
[0227] Ultimately, the composition according to the invention, comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines, at least one linear α-olefin sulfonate, at least one polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester, makes it possible to obtain a shower gel, sulfate-free, stable, with a transparent appearance, and has good qualities of use, in particular in terms of sensoriality, quantity of foam, and perceived sensations (comfort, softness and hydration of the skin) after the shower.
Claims
Claims
1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a. an aqueous phase, b. at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines, c. at least one linear α-olefin sulfonate, d. at least one polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester, and in which the weight ratio of betaine amphoteric surfactant to linear α-olefin sulfonate is greater than 1.
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises water and at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water, preferably at least one polyol.
3. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from alkyl betaines, more preferably from coco-betaine.
4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant(s) is (are) present in a total active material content of between 1% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1.2% and 10% by weight, preferably between 1.5% and 5% by weight.
5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the linear α-olefin sulfonate(s) are chosen from linear alkene sulfonates of formula (A): R-CH2-CH=CH-(CH2)n-SO3M, in which R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, even better from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, preferentially from 10 to 12 carbon atoms; n is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, and even better n=1; M being a cosmetically acceptable cation, in particular chosen from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+; optionally mixed with linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates of formula (B): R'-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-(CH2)n'-SO3M' in which: R' is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better from 10 to 12 carbon atoms; n' is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, and even better n'=1; M' being a cosmetically acceptable cation, in particular chosen from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+.
6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the linear α-olefin sulfonates are chosen from linear α-olefin sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 16 carbon atoms; in particular their alkali metal salts, in particular sodium salts.
7. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the α-olefin sulfonate(s) comprise linear alkene sulfonates of formula: [Chem.l] O Oh in which R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better from 10 to 12 carbon atoms; M being a cosmetically acceptable cation, in particular chosen from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali or alkaline-earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+; optionally in admixture with linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates of formula: [Chem.2] 0 HR —vH M + OH q in which R' is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better from 10 to 12 carbon atoms; M' is a cosmetically acceptable cation, in particular chosen from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+.
8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising said linear alpha-olefin sulfonates in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.4 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which said at least one polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester is chosen from esters of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan and of a C6-C28, preferably C6-C24, preferably C6-C16, preferably C8-C14, preferably C10-C14, saturated, linear or branched fatty acid and having a number of moles of ethylene oxide less than 100, preferably less than 80, preferably less than 60, preferably less than 40, preferably less than 30, preferably less than or equal to 20.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester is selected from oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate containing 20 moles of ethylene oxide (20OE), oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate containing 4 moles of ethylene oxide (4OE), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate containing 4 moles of ethylene oxide (4OE), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate containing 5 moles of ethylene oxide (5OE), preferably oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate containing 20 moles of ethylene oxide (20OE).
11. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the content of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester is in the range of 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.2 to 4%, preferably 0.3 to 3%, preferably 0.4 to 2%, preferably 0.5 to 1%, based on the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of betaine amphoteric surfactant(s) is greater than the content of linear α-olefin sulfonates, which is itself greater than the content of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester.
13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and preferably is free of acrylic polymer(s), in particular crosslinked anionic acrylic polymer(s), such as crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof.
14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a content respectively of between: a. 60 and 95%, preferably between 70 and 90%, of water, b. 1 and 10%, preferably between 1.5 and 5%, of amphoteric surfactant(s) chosen from betaines, c. 0.1 and 10%, preferably between 0.5 and 5%, of linear α-olefin sulfonate(s), d. 0.1 and 5%, preferably between 0.2 and 2%, of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s). e. optionally 0 and 3%, preferably between 0.2 and 2%, of isethionate surfactant.
15. A method of cleaning keratin materials comprising the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 14.
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