STABILIZATION OF A COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYHYDROXYACIDE, A BETA-HYDROXYACIDE AND A PEPTIDE WITH POLYOL

Abstract

STABILIZATION OF A COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYHYDROXYACIDE, A BETA-HYDROXYACIDE, AND A PEPTIDE WITH A POLYOL. The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one first compound selected from polyhydroxy acids and their salts; (b) at least one second compound selected from β-hydroxy acids and their salts; (c) at least one peptide; and (d) at least one polyol. The composition according to the present invention is stable. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: STABILIZATION OF A COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYHYDROXYACIDE, A BETA-HYDROXYACIDE AND A PEPTIDE WITH POLYOL technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and, more preferably, a skincare cosmetic composition. PRIOR TECHNOLOGY

[0002] Peptides are short sequences of amino acids, some of which have activity or function useful for anti-aging skincare, such as anti-wrinkle activity. These peptides, generally referred to simply as "peptides" in the field of skincare, are well-known active agents added to skincare products to improve the appearance of the skin's surface.

[0003] On the other hand, exfoliation is also a well-known means of improving the appearance of the skin's surface, in particular for treating visible and / or tactile irregularities of human skin, and for example for reducing pigmentation defects such as freckles or marks due to acne or chickenpox, or for smoothing irregularities in skin texture, in particular wrinkles or fine lines.

[0004] This scrub has the effect of removing part of the skin to be treated (the epidermis and possibly the upper layer of the dermis) by chemical methods such as the application of compositions containing one or more exfoliating agent(s) stimulating skin desquamation, for example alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) such as salicylic acid, or other active substances such as retinoic acid, resorcinol, trichloroacetic acid or phenol. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0005] Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are also useful as exfoliating agents. In general, PHAs have a larger molecular size than AHAs.

[0006] However, it was found that if PHA was used in combination with a peptide and a BHA in a composition, the composition became unstable.

[0007] One objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition including a PHA in combination with a peptide and a BHA.

[0008] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising: a. at least one first compound chosen from among the polyhydroxy acids and their salts; b. at least one second compound chosen from among the [3-hydroxy acids and their salts; c. at least one peptide; and d. at least one polyol.

[0009] The (a) first compound may be in the form of a lactone. Preferably, the (a) first compound should be gluconolactone.

[0010] The quantity of the (a) first compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] The (b) second compound can be represented by the following formula (I):

[0012] in which:

[0013] - Ri represents a hydrogen atom, or an aliphatic, alkoxy, ester or chain saturated ketotoxic, linear, branched or cyclic, an unsaturated hydrocarbon chain bearing one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds, these chains containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms and capable of being substituted by at least one substituent selected from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, a hydroxyl group in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and, alternatively, with a carboxyl functional group, which is free or esterified with a low molecular weight alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0014] - R2 represents a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of formula (II) next: •g-lr no

[0015] - where R4 represents a saturated aliphatic group or an alkenyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; and

[0016] - R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear hydrocarbon chain or branched saturated or unsaturated having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally containing one or more substituents.

[0017] It is preferable that the (b) second compound be salicylic acid.

[0018] The quantity of the (b) second compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] It is preferable that the (c) peptide be chosen from the group consisting of acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, and one of their mixtures.

[0020] The quantity of the (c) peptide(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The (d) polyol may be selected from glycols, preferably from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from the group consisting of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and one of their mixtures.

[0022] The quantity of the (d) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The composition according to the present invention may include (e) at least one hydrophilic thickener.

[0024] The quantity of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The composition according to the present invention may not include α-hydroxy acid.

[0026] The present invention further relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, preferably for skin treatment, and more preferably for skin exfoliation, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention. Best embodiment of the invention

[0027] After careful research, the inventors discovered that it was possible to propose a stable composition comprising a PHA in combination with a peptide and a BHA.

[0028] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, comprising: a. at least one first compound chosen from among the polyhydroxy acids and their salts; b. at least one second compound chosen from among the [3-hydroxy acids and their salts; c. at least one peptide; and d. at least one polyol.

[0029] A composition comprising the (a) first compound in combination with the (b) second compound and the (c) peptide, without the (d) polyol, is unstable, so that the composition becomes cloudy, separates into different phases, causes precipitation or color changes, particularly at higher temperatures or when passing from hot to cold, and vice versa.

[0030] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention comprising the (d) polyol, with the (a) first compound, the (b) second compound, and the (c) peptide is stable. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can prevent or reduce cloudiness, separation into different phases, precipitation, or color change, particularly at higher temperatures or when changing from hot to cold, and vice versa.

[0031] Consequently, the composition according to the present invention is stable and can be stored safely, even in the heat or for a prolonged period, for example from summer to winter.

[0032] The composition according to the present invention may also provide additional effects.

[0033] It is known that (d)-polyols such as glycerin cause a sticky sensation to the touch. The term "sticky" here means a property that gives a tacky feeling to the skin.

[0034] The composition according to the present invention includes (d)-polyol to stabilize the composition. The greater the amount of (d)-polyol, the more stabilized the composition. However, even if the amount of (d)-polyol is increased, surprisingly, the stickiness of the composition according to the present invention is not increased (and is rather reduced in general). In other words, the stickiness of the composition can be reduced, and consequently, the composition according to the present invention can offer a less sticky feel.

[0035] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can offer an excellent sensation, such as a less sticky sensation during and / or after the application of the composition.

[0036] However, using too much (d) polyol tends to increase adhesion due to its own properties. Therefore, it is preferable that the amount of (d) polyol in the composition according to the present invention either 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] The composition according to the present invention is useful for removing the superficial layer of the stratum corneum, or horny layer, of the skin.

[0038] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can offer cosmetic effects of skin exfoliation, improvement of skin condition, and the like, both in terms of appearance and feel of the skin, including skin smoothing, refining and brightening of skin tone, and reduction of imperfections, pores and blackheads.

[0039] The composition according to the present invention is also useful for reducing wrinkles and / or fine lines on the skin, resulting in an improvement in the appearance of the skin surface.

[0040] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can also provide anti-aging cosmetic effects, for example.

[0041] The present invention will be explained in more detail below.

[0042] [Composition]

[0043] The composition according to the present invention includes: a. at least one first compound chosen from among the polyhydroxy acids and their salts; b. at least one second compound selected from the [3-hydroxy acid and its salts; c. at least one peptide; and d. at least one polyol. (Polyhydroxyacid)

[0044] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one first compound selected from polyhydroxy acids and their salts. If two or more first compounds are used, they may be identical or different.

[0045] The term "polyhydroxy acid" here refers to an organic compound having at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxyl groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and a single carboxyl group is even more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is also not limited, but 2 to 10 are preferable, and 2 to 6 are even more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 atoms are preferable, and 3 to 8 atoms are even more preferable.

[0046] The above organic compound may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid may be chosen from aliphatic or aromatic polyhydroxy acids. Preferably, the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid may be chosen from sugar acids.

[0047] Examples of polyhydroxy acids include dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0048] Preferably, (a) the first compound should be in the form of a lactone. The lactone ring of (a) the first compound in the form of a lactone can be saturated. Examples of (a) the first compound include gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] It is preferable that (a) the first compound be gluconolactone. As a substitute for gluconolactone, a commercially available product, such as Glucono-delta-Lactone F5010 marketed by Jungbunzlauer, may be used.

[0050] The type of salt is not limited. Examples of salts include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt, and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. Sodium salt is preferred. If two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.

[0051] The quantity of the (a) first compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] Furthermore, the quantity of the (a) first compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] The quantity of the (a) first compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (P-hydroxyacid)

[0054] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one second compound selected from the [3-hydroxy acids and their salts. If two or more second compounds are used, they may be identical or different.

[0055] The term “[3-hydroxyacid”, or “BHA”, here refers to a carboxylic acid which has at least one hydroxyl group on the beta carbon atom.

[0056] As examples of [3-hydroxy acids, salicylic acid and its derivatives may be cited without limitation.

[0057] Salicylic acid and its derivatives can be represented by the following formula (I):

[0058] in which:

[0059] - Ri represents a hydrogen atom, or an aliphatic, alkoxy, ester or chain saturated ketotoxic, linear, branched or cyclic, an unsaturated hydrocarbon chain bearing one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds, these chains containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms and capable of being substituted by at least one substituent selected from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, a hydroxyl group in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and, alternatively, with a carboxyl functional group, which is free or esterified with a low molecular weight alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0060] - R2 represents a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of formula (II) next: (11)

[0061] - where R4 represents a saturated aliphatic group or an alkenyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0062] - R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear hydrocarbon chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally containing one or more substituents. The hydrocarbon chain can be selected from alkyl and alkenyl radicals containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted. The substituent can, in particular, be a hydroxyl radical.

[0063] In particular:

[0064] - Ri represents a hydrogen atom, or an aliphatic, alkoxy, ester or chain saturated ketotoxic, linear, branched or cyclic, an unsaturated hydrocarbon chain bearing one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds, these chains containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms and capable of being substituted by at least one substituent selected from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, a group hydroxyl in free form or esterified with an acid having 1 to 6 carbon atoms and, alternatively, with a carboxyl functional group, which is free or esterified with a low molecular weight alcohol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0065] - R2 represents a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of formula (II) next:

[0066] - where R4 represents a saturated aliphatic group or an alkenyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0067] - R3 represents a hydrogen atom or an aliphatic hydrocarbon chain saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally containing one or more substituents.

[0068] When R3 is a hydrogen atom, it is also possible to use salts of the acids of formula (I) above, and in particular salts obtained by salification with a base.

[0069] As a base capable of salifying the salicylic acid derivatives of formula (I) above, one may mention, without limitation, inorganic bases such as alkali metal hydroxides (sodium and potassium hydroxides) or ammonium hydroxides, or better still, organic bases such as primary, secondary, tertiary, or cyclic organic amines, and more particularly amino acids. Examples of bases include glycine, lysine, arginine, taurine, histidine, alanine, valine, cysteine, trihydroxymethylaminomethane (TRISTA), and triethanolamine.

[0070] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, derivatives of formula (I) above are preferred to be those whose radical Ri contains at least 4 carbon atoms and which are used in the composition of the present invention. For example, it is formed from a saturated linear alkyl or alkoxy radical having from 4 to 11 carbon atoms.

[0071] As derivatives of formula (I) above, in which Ri is formed from a saturated, linear alkyl or alkoxy radical having from 4 to 11 carbon atoms, R2 is a hydroxyl group, and R3 is a hydrogen atom, examples include 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (CTFA name: Capryloyl Salicylic Acid), 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-ethoxysalicylic acid, 5-methoxysalicylic acid, 5-propoxysalicylic acid, 5-methylsalicylic acid, 5-ethylsalicylic acid, and 5-propylsalicylic acid, and their mixtures, these acids being generally salted with a base; the compounds described in document EP-A-570230 can also be used.

[0072] Where Ri represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a hydroxyl group, the derivative of formula (I) above is a salicylic acid ester. It preferably includes esters of fatty alcohols such as dodecyl, hexadecyl, stearyl, cetyl, myristyl, linoleyl, octyl, oleyl, and tridecyl alcohols, or esters of butyric, propyl, and ethyl alcohols, or alternatively, esters of polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, or glycerol esters, or mixtures of these esters. This may particularly include cetyl salicylate, dodecyl salicylate, and tridecyl salicylate.

[0073] As a (b) second compound, salicylic acid is preferable.

[0074] The quantity of the (b) second compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Furthermore, the quantity of the (b) second compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] The quantity of the (b) second compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Peptide)

[0077] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one peptide. If two or more peptides are used, they may be identical or different.

[0078] The term "peptide" here refers to a chain of amino acid monomers linked by amide bonds. In some embodiments, a peptide includes 2 to 50 amino acid residues (for example, 2 to 20 amino acid residues, 2 to 10 amino acid residues, or 5 to 10 amino acid residues).

[0079] It is preferable that the (c) peptide be chosen from oligopeptides having about 2 to 20, preferably about 4 to 10, or most preferably 5 to 6 amino acids.

[0080] Examples of (c) peptides include, but are not limited to, dipeptides, tripeptides, tetrapeprides, pentapeptides, hexapeptides and heptapeptides.

[0081] The (c) peptide can be substituted with acyl groups such as acetyl, palmitoyl, and the like. Suitable acyl groups include acetyl, palmitoyl, or myristoyl.

[0082] It is preferable that the (c) peptide have anti-wrinkle activity for the skin. This anti-wrinkle activity may be based on the relaxation of muscle contractions, which form wrinkles on the skin. This relaxation may be caused by blocking acetylchorine at the synapses between nerves and muscles.

[0083] In one embodiment of the present invention, examples of (c) peptide may include one or more peptides selected from acetyl hexapeptides (such as acetyl-3, -37, -38 and -51 hexapeptide), acetyl tetrapeptides (such as acetyl-2, -3, -5, -7, -8, -9, -11 and -15 tetrapeptides), and combinations thereof.

[0084] Specific examples of (c) peptide include hexapeptides 1 to 60, said range including each integer between 1 and 60, and hexapeptides that are acetylated, palmitoylated or myristoylated such as acetyl hexapeptides 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 15, 19, 20, 22, 24, 30, 31, 37, 38, 39, 40 and 51.

[0085] Acetyl-8 hexapeptide is particularly preferred, and is obtained by acetylation of hexapeptide-8, which is a synthetic peptide containing arginine, glutamic acid, glutamine and methionine.

[0086] The hexapeptide acetyl-8 has the following amino acid sequence: Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2

[0087] in which

[0088] - Ac: acetyl,

[0089] - Glu: La-glutamyl group,

[0090] - Met: L-methionyl group,

[0091] - Gin: L-Glutaminyl group, and

[0092] - Arg: L-Arginyl group.

[0093] Acetyl-8 hexapeptide can be purchased from Lipotec SA under the trade name Argireline®.

[0094] Other specific examples of the (c) peptide include the compounds represented by the following formula (III): (III)

[0095] in which

[0096] - n represents 0, 1 or 2,

[0097] - R1 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from the group consisting of H, alkyl in Ci-C6, amidino and tetra-Ci-C6-alkylamidinium,

[0098] - R2 is H or alkyl in Ci-C6, or R1 and R2, with the residue to which they are bonded, form a saturated cycle with 5 to 7 members;

[0099] - R3 is chosen from the group consisting of alkyl in Ci-C6, arCi-C6 alkyl and heteroaryl Ci-C6 alkyl, and

[0100] - R5 is H and, when n is 1, also NH2, or R5 and R1, in conjugation with the residue to which they are bound, form a saturated ring of 5 to 7 members,

[0101] or one of their cosmetically acceptable salts

[0102] The expression "Ci-C6 alkyl", as used herein, refers to an unbranched Ci-C6 alkyl or branched C3-C6 alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, 1-methylethyl, n-butyl, 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, 1,1-dimethylethyl, n-pentyl, 1-methylbutyl, 2-methylbutyl, 3-methylbutyl, 2,2-dimethylpropyl, 1-ethylpropyl, n-hexyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 1,2-dimethylpropyl, 1-methylpentyl, 2-methylpentyl, 3-methylpentyl, 4-methylpentyl, 1,1-dimethylbutyl, 1,2-dimethylbutyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 2,2-dimethylbutyl, 2,3-dimethylbutyl, 3,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-ethylbutyl, 2-ethylbutyl, 1,1,2-trimethylpropyl, 1,2,2-trimethylpropyl, 1-ethyl-1-methylpropyl and 1-ethyl-2-methylpropyl.

[0103] The term "arCi-C6 alkyl" as used herein refers to a Ci-C6 aryl alkyl in which the term "aryl" is, for example, a phenyl, indanyl, or naphthyl group. The "ar-Ci-C6 alkyl" may be called the "aralkyl Ci-C6 group." Examples of "arCi-C6 alkyl" or "aralkyl Ci-C6" groups include a benzyl group.

[0104] The term "heteroaryl Ci-C6 alkyl" as used herein refers to a C|-C6-heteroaryl alkyl in which the term "heteroaryl" refers to a 5- or 6-member aromatic ring containing one or more heteroatoms, namely, N, O, or S; these heteroaromatic rings may be fused to other aromatic systems.

[0105] Examples of the saturated ring with 5 to 7 members, which R1 and R2 or R1 and R5, respectively, can form with the residue to which they are linked, are pyrrolidinyl, piperidinyl, piperazinyl, morpholinyl, azepinyl, oxazolidinyl, thiazolidinyl and 1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinolinyl.

[0106] It is understood that the present invention encompasses compounds of formula (III) such as optically pure isomers, such as, for example, pure enantiomers or stereoisomers, as well as mixtures of different isomers, such as, for example, in the form of racemates, or mixtures of diastereomers.

[0107] It is understood that the expression "cosmetically acceptable salt" refers to non-toxic acid salts, that is, salts that are physiologically acceptable and can be used in contact with the skin, lips, hair, or gums without causing adverse or deleterious effects. Preferably, the expression "or one of their cosmetically acceptable salts" refers to compounds of formula (III) in the form of an acid salt, such as a chloride, acetate, mesylate, or trifluoroacetate salt. Alternatively, the salt may be formed by reaction with an alkali or alkaline earth base giving rise to the respective alkali or alkaline earth salt, such as, in particular, the respective salts of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, or calcium.

[0108] It is preferable that the compounds of formula (III) above be in the form of their acetates or trifluoroacetates. Such salts are easily prepared by a person skilled in the art.

[0109] H is preferable if R1, R4 and R5 are H.

[0110] H is preferable that R2 be H or a methyl group, and more preferably, H.

[0111] It is preferable that R3 be a C1-C6 aralkyl group and more preferably a benzyl group.

[0112] It is preferable that "n" be equal to 0 or 1, and more preferably equal to 1.

[0113] It is preferable that, in formula (III) above, R1, R2, R4 and R5 be an atom of H, that R3 is a benzyl group, and that "n" is equal to 1.

[0114] The compounds of formula (III) can be prepared as disclosed, for example, in document US-A-2009 / 0111731.

[0115] It is particularly preferable that the compound of formula (III) above be a dipeptide having the sequence: H-(beta-Ala)-Pro-Dab-NH-benzyl, especially in the form of a diacetate. This compound is also known as Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl benzylamide Diacetate (INCI) [CAS 823202-99-9], and is commercially available under the name SYN®-AKE from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd., which is a 0.2% to 0.3% wt. solution of dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate.

[0116] Preferably the (c) peptide should be selected from the group consisting of acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, and one of their mixtures.

[0117] The amount of (c) peptide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.0001% by weight or more, preferably 0.0005% by weight or more and more preferably 0.001% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] Furthermore, the quantity of the (c) peptide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] The quantity of the (c) peptide(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.00001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Polyol)

[0120] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one polyol. If two or more polyols are used, they may be identical or different.

[0121] The term "polyol" here refers to an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. A derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.

[0122] The (d) polyol used in the present invention is in the form of a liquid at room temperature, for example at 25°C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 kPa).

[0123] The (d) polyol may be a C2 24 polyol, preferably a C2 9 polyol comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably a C4.6 polyol comprising 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

[0124] The (d)-polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The (d)-polyol may have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.

[0125] The (d) polyol may be selected from glycerins and their derivatives, as well as glycols and their derivatives. The (d) polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, a polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, C6-C24 polyethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, and mixtures thereof. The (d) polyol may not be glycerin.

[0126] It is preferable that the (d) polyol be chosen from the glycols, more preferably from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof, and more preferably chosen from butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and one of their mixtures.

[0127] The quantity of the (d) polyol(s) in the composition used in the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more (or more than 2% by weight), and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] Furthermore, the quantity of the (d) polyol(s) in the composition used in the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and even more preferably 8% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] The quantity of the (d) polyol(s) in the composition used in the present invention can range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight (or more than 3% to 10% by weight), and even more preferably from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Hydrophilic thickener)

[0130] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one hydrophilic thickener. If two or more hydrophilic thickeners are used, they may be identical or different.

[0131] The (e) hydrophilic thickener can thicken the composition according to the present invention, if the composition includes water.

[0132] Hydrophilic thickeners that may be cited include carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopol products (carbomers) and Pemulen products (C10-C30 alkyl acrylate / acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for example those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-C14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) sold by the company SEPPIC; acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, for example, Simulgel FL (CTFA name: hydroxyethylacrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer / polysorbate 60), Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) marketed by the company SEPPIC;2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, optionally neutralized, for example poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate); 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, for example Simulgel NS and Sepinov EMT 10 sold by SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose and mixtures thereof.

[0133] It is preferable that the (e) hydrophilic thickener be chosen from cellulose derivatives.

[0134] It is more preferable that the (e) hydrophilic thickener be hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0135] The quantity of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0136] Furthermore, the quantity of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] The quantity of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Additional ingredient)

[0138] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one additional ingredient selected from water; α-hydroxy acids and their salts, which is different from (a) the first compound; a pH-correcting agent; and mixtures thereof. If two or more additional ingredients are used, they may be identical or different.

[0139] Water:

[0140] The composition according to the present invention may include water.

[0141] The quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more and, more preferably, 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] Furthermore, the quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] The quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA):

[0145] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one α-hydroxy acid. If two or more α-hydroxy acids are used, they may be identical or different.

[0146] The term "α-hydroxy acid" or "AHA" here refers to a carboxylic acid that has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group separated by a carbon atom. Thus, in other words, an AHA is a carboxylic acid that has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (α) carbon atom.

[0147] The α-hydroxy acid can be chosen from, for example, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycolic acid, citric acid and one of their mixtures, more preferably from glycolic acid.

[0148] The amount of α-hydroxy acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] Furthermore, the amount of α-hydroxyacid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] The amount of α-hydroxy acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] In certain embodiments, it may be preferable in terms of reducing possible skin irritation that the composition according to the present invention does not include α-hydroxy acid.

[0152] pH correcting agent:

[0153] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one pH-correcting agent. If two or more pH-correcting agents are used, they may be identical or different.

[0154] The pH correcting agent can control the pH of the composition according to the present invention.

[0155] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be less than 7, preferably less than or equal to 6, and more preferably less than or equal to 5. The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 3.0, preferably greater than or equal to 3.5 and more preferably greater than or equal to 4.0. Thus, the pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3.0 to less than 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6, and more preferably from 4.0 to 5.

[0156] As a pH correcting agent, at least one acidifying agent and / or at least one alkalizing agent (alkaline agent) may be used.

[0157] Acidifying agents may be, for example, inorganic or organic acids, for example hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid, and carboxylic acids, such as lactic acid.

[0158] The alkalizing agent may be, for example, any inorganic or organic basic agent commonly used in cosmetic products, such as ammonia; alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, and triethanolamine, isopropanolamine; metal hydroxides such as alkali metal hydroxide (e.g., sodium and potassium hydroxides); urea, guanidine, and their derivatives; and diamines such as those described in the structure below: R] R3 N—RN R2 R4

[0159] in which

[0160] - R designates an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a Ci-C4 alkyl radical, and Rb, R2, Ri, and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical, or a CrC4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which is 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives. Alkali metal hydroxide such as potassium hydroxide is preferred.

[0161] The quantity of the pH correcting agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0162] Furthermore, the quantity of the pH correcting agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] The quantity of the pH correcting agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Other ingredients)

[0164] The composition according to the present invention may also include various adjuvants traditionally used in cosmetic compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers; anionic, cationic, nonionic, and amphoteric surfactants; antioxidants; coloring agents; chelating agents; sequestering agents; perfumes; dispersing agents; conditioning agents; film-forming agents; preservatives; co preservatives, and their mixtures, with the exception of ingredients as explained above.

[0165] The quantity of the adjuvant or adjuvants in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] Furthermore, the quantity of the adjuvant or adjuvants in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] The quantity of the adjuvant or adjuvants in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Methods of implementation)

[0168] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0169] 0.01% to 20% by weight of (a) at least one polyhydroxy acid;

[0170] 0.01% to 10% by weight of (b) at least one [3-hydroxy acid;

[0171] 0.0001% to 1% by weight of (c) at least one peptide; and

[0172] 1% to 20% by weight of (d) polyol.

[0173] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0174] 0.1% to 15% by weight of (a1) gluconolactone;

[0175] 0.05% to 5% by weight of (b1) salicylic acid;

[0176] 0.0005% to 0.5% by weight of (c1) at least one peptide having anti-wrinkle activity for the skin; and

[0177] 2% to 15% by weight of (d1) polyol selected from glycols.

[0178] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention includes, in relation to the total weight of the composition:

[0179] 1% to 10% by weight of (a1) gluconolactone;

[0180] 0.1% to 1% by weight of (b1) salicylic acid;

[0181] 0.001% to 0.1% by weight of (c1) at least one peptide selected from the group consisting of acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, and a mixture thereof; and

[0182] 3% to 10% by weight of (d1) polyol selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and a mixture thereof.

[0183] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0184] 1% to 10% by weight of (a1) gluconolactone;

[0185] 0.1% to 1% by weight of (b1) salicylic acid;

[0186] 0.001% to 0.1% by weight of (c1) at least one peptide selected from the group consisting of acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, and a mixture thereof; and

[0187] 3% to 10% by weight of (d1) polyol selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof, provided that the composition does not include α-hydroxy acid. [Preparation]

[0188] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if applicable, as explained above.

[0189] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. [Shape]

[0190] The form of the composition according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of, for example, a solution, a gel, or an emulsion. However, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an emulsion. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of a liquid such as a solution.

[0191] The composition according to the present invention may be transparent or translucent.

[0192] Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity (turbidity can, for example, be measured with a 2100Q incandescent lamp (marketed by Hach Company) equipped with a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm high) and a tungsten filament lamp capable of emitting visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably from 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be carried out on the undiluted composition. The blank test can be evaluated with distilled water.

[0193] The composition according to the present invention may have a turbidity of 50 NTU or less, preferably 40 NTU or less, more preferably 30 NTU or less, more preferably 20 NTU or less, more preferably 10 NTU or less, and more preferably still 5 NTU or less. [Process and use]

[0194] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin and more preferably, a cosmetic skin care composition.

[0195] The term "skin" here encompasses the skin of the face, the skin of the neck, and the scalp. The composition according to the present invention can also be used for mucous membranes such as the lips and the like.

[0196] Since the composition according to the present invention includes (a) at least one first compound selected from polyhydroxy acids and their salts, the composition according to the present invention can be used for skin exfoliation while providing reduced skin discomfort, such as reduced skin irritation. In other words, the composition according to the present invention is useful as a skin exfoliation composition. Skin exfoliation here means exfoliation of the superficial layer of the skin, in particular the stratum corneum.

[0197] The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, to treat a keratinous substance, preferably to treat the skin and more preferably to exfoliate the skin, by being applied to the skin.

[0198] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, preferably for skin treatment, and more preferably for skin exfoliation, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance, in particular to the skin.

[0199] The present invention may also relate to the use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as skincare products. In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as is, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other element to form a cosmetic product.

[0200] The care product may be in the form of a solution, a gel, a lotion, and the like.

[0201] Another aspect of the present invention may relate to the use of (d) at least one polyol

[0202] in a composition comprising: a. at least one first compound chosen from among the polyhydroxy acids and their salts; b. at least one second compound selected from the [3-hydroxy acids and their salts; and c. at least one peptide,

[0203] in order to stabilize the composition.

[0204] In addition, another aspect of the present invention may relate to the use of (d) at least one polyol

[0205] in a composition comprising: a. at least one first compound chosen from among the polyhydroxy acids and their salts; b. at least one second compound selected from the [3-hydroxy acids and their salts; and c. at least one peptide,

[0206] in which

[0207] the amount of (d) polyol in the composition is 1% to 20% by weight, preferably 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0208] in order to reduce the adhesion of the composition.

[0209] The above explanations concerning ingredients (a) to (d), as well as optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention can be applied to those for the above-mentioned use according to the present invention. The explanations concerning the preparation and forms of the composition according to the present invention can also be applied to those of the composition described in the above-mentioned use according to the present invention.

[0210] Another aspect of the present invention may relate to a process or method for stabilizing a composition comprising: a. at least one first compound chosen from among the polyhydroxy acids and their salts; b. at least one second compound selected from the [3-hydroxy acids and their salts; and c. at least one peptide,

[0211] characterized by the addition (d) of at least one polyol to the composition.

[0212] Furthermore, another aspect of the present invention may relate to a process or method for reducing the adhesion of a composition comprising: a. at least one first compound chosen from among the polyhydroxy acids and their salts; b. at least one second compound selected from the [3-hydroxy acids and their salts; and c. at least one peptide,

[0213] characterized by the addition (d) of at least one polyol to the composition,

[0214] in which

[0215] the amount of polyol (d) in the composition is 1% to 20% by weight, preferably 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0216] The above explanations concerning ingredients (a) to (d), as well as optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those for the above process or method according to the present invention. The explanations concerning the preparation and forms of the composition according to the present invention can also be applied to those of the composition described in the above process or method according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0217] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples which, however, shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Examples 1 to 4 and comparative example 1]

[0218] The following compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Example 1, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components listed in Table 1. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials, unless otherwise indicated (MA: active ingredient). In Table 1, the total quantity of polyols (butylene glycol and pentylene glycol) is shown in the row "Quantity of polyol".

[0219] [Table 1]

[0220] [Tables 1] Ingredients Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. comp. 1 Pentylene glycol 1.3 2.1 3 4.3 - Butylene glycol 1.7 2.9 4 5.7 - Acetyl hexapeptide-8*1 0.002 MA 0.002 MA 0.002 MA 0.002 MA 0.002 MA Diaminobutyroyl dipeptide benzylamide diacetate*2 0.01 MA 0.01 MA 0.01 MA 0.01 MA 0.01 MA Gluconolactone 5 5 5 5 5 Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Polyol quantity 3 5 7 10 - Stability Good Good Good Good Good Poor Lack of adhesion 3.2 3.0 2.6 3.1 3.3

[0221] * 1: ARGIRELINE® AMPLIFIED PEPTIDE SOLUTION (LIPOTEC)

[0222] *2: SYN®-AKE (DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) [Reviews] (Stability)

[0223] Each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 4 and comparative example 1 was placed in a glass bottle and maintained at a temperature of 55°C for 1 day, then subjected to a temperature change from -20°C to 20°C for 10 days (10 cycles). Each sample was then studied in terms of the degree of change in appearance (color and homogeneity) and was evaluated according to the following criteria:

[0224] Good: no change in appearance was observed

[0225] Bad: changes in appearance (cloudiness and phase separation) were observed.

[0226] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0227] (Absence of adhesion)

[0228] Seven professional panelists evaluated the "non-sticky feel" after application of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Example 1. Each panelist took each composition in their hands and then applied it to their face to assess the non-sticky feel after application, rating it from 1 (non-sticky) to 5 (very sticky). The composition according to Example 2 was used as the standard, with a rating of 3. The results were then averaged. The results are shown in Table 1. [Example 5]

[0229] The following composition according to Example 5, shown in Table 2, was prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 2. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of the components shown in Table 2 are all based on the "% by weight" of raw materials, unless otherwise indicated (MA: active material).

[0230] [Table 2]

[0231] [Tables2] Ingredients Ex. 5 Pentylene glycol 1.3 Butylene glycol 1.7 Acetyl hexapeptide-8*1 0.001 MA Diaminobutyroyl dipeptide benzylamide diacetate*2 0.005 MA PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 Glycerin 3 Methyl gluceth-20 2 Niacinamide 5 Gluconolactone 5 pH adjusting agent qs pH = 5 Salicylic acid 0.2 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.3 Ethanol 3 Preservative qs Water qsp 100

[0232] * 1: ARGIRELINE® AMPLIFIED PEPTIDE SOLUTION (LIPOTEC)

[0233] *2: SYN®-AKE (DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS)

[0234] The composition according to example 5 is stable and can be stored safely, even in the presence of heat or for a prolonged period, for example from summer to winter.

[0235] In addition, the composition according to example 5 may offer an excellent feel, such as a less sticky feeling during and / or after application of the composition.

Claims

Claims ^Claim 1] A composition comprising: (a) at least one first compound selected from polyhydroxy acids and their salts; (b) at least one second compound selected from 3-hydroxy acids, including salicylic acid and its derivatives, and their salts; (c) at least one peptide; and (d) at least one polyol. ^Claim 2] A composition according to claim 1, wherein (a) the first compound is in the form of a lactone. ^Claim 3] A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (a) the first compound is gluconolactone.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein (b) the second compound is salicylic acid and its derivatives represented by the following formula (I): - where R4 represents a saturated aliphatic group or an alkenyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; - R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon chain having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally containing one or more substituents.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) second compound is salicylic acid.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (c) peptide is selected from the group consisting of acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, and a mixture thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (d) polyol is selected from glycols, preferably selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from the group consisting of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and a mixture thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of (d) polyol(s) in the composition is 1% to 20% by weight, preferably 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition does not comprise α-hydroxy acid.

10. Cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, preferably for skin treatment, and more preferably for skin exfoliation, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on the keratinous substance.