SUN CARE COMPOSITION
A sun care composition with polar oils and vitamin B3 derivatives enhances preservative efficiency, reducing preservative content and skin irritation, while maintaining effective preservation and sensory benefits.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024002853
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-03-22
- Publication Date
- 2025-09-26
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-03-22
AI Technical Summary
Existing sun care compositions that use large amounts of polar oils require high levels of preservatives, leading to skin irritation, and there is a need for compositions that can maintain preservation efficiency without requiring excessive preservatives.
A composition comprising at least 20% polar oil, inorganic UV filters, and vitamin B3 or its derivatives, which enhances preservative properties, allowing for reduced preservative content while maintaining effective preservation and sensory benefits.
The composition achieves sufficient preservation efficiency with lower preservative levels, reducing skin irritation and providing good sensory properties such as spreadability and low stickiness.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: SUN CARE COMPOSITION Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a sun care composition comprising vitamin B3 and its derivatives, for a keratinous substance such as the skin. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Sun care products are commonly used to protect keratinous substances, especially the skin, from damage caused by UV radiation. There are generally two types of cosmetic sunscreen active substances used to accomplish photoprotection, namely inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters. When inorganic UV filters are used, it is effective to blend a large amount of polar oils to adjust the UV protection effect and the feeling during use.
[0003] For example, WO 2022 / 000053 discloses a cosmetic sunscreen composition with high SPF, high anti-wrinkle and anti-blemish efficacy comprising: (a) from 5.0 to 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one UV filter selected from octocrylene, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof; (b) from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one active compound chosen from hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, phenylethyl resorcinol, ferulic acid, niacinamide, and mixtures thereof;and (c) from 1.5 to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one polymer selected from xanthan gum, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, a polyC10-30 alkyl acrylate, and mixtures thereof.;
[0004] Furthermore, WO 2011 / 061864 discloses a cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of an emulsion, containing an aqueous phase and an oily phase, wherein the composition comprises: a) at least 5% by weight of one or more lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active substances relative to the total amount of the composition; b) a volatile non-alcoholic solvent which is other than a cyclomethicone; c) a volatile alcohol; d) wax particles; and e) a non-volatile compound having at least one hydrophilic functional group.
[0005] Furthermore, WO 2017 / 056506 discloses an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic composition comprising a solid oil and / or a semi-solid oil, a powder and an emulsifier, wherein the solid oil and / or the semi-solid oil are selected from a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil and an ester oil, its viscosity is less than or equal to 1500 mPa s at 25°C, and the formulation amount is 2 to 25% by mass relative to the total amount of the oil phase; and the amount of the oil phase is less than or equal to 40% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
[0006] However, when a large amount of polar oils is used in cosmetic compositions, a problem arises that a large amount of preservatives are generally also required, which may cause skin irritation. Thus, there is a demand for compositions that do not require a large amount of preservatives, while still including a large amount of polar oils. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0007] An objective of the present invention is to provide compositions, preferably cosmetic compositions for keratinous substances, such as skin, which exhibit sufficient preservation efficiency so that they do not require a large amount of preservatives, even if they include a large amount of polar oils.
[0008] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising: a. at least one polar oil in an amount greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, b. at least one inorganic UV filter, c. at least two preservatives, and d. at least one compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof.
[0009] The (a) polar oil may comprise one or two or more of ester oils, fatty alcohols and fatty acids, wherein the ester oil is preferably selected from ester oils having at least one, preferably one, C6 to C22 hydrocarbon chain fraction, more preferably a C8 to C16 hydrocarbon chain fraction,
[0010] the fatty alcohol is preferably chosen from C6-C30 fatty alcohols, preferably C10-C24 fatty alcohols, and more preferably C12-C20 fatty alcohols, and
[0011] the fatty acid is preferably chosen from C6-C2s fatty acids, preferably from C10 to C22 fatty acids, and even more preferably from C10 to C18 fatty acids.
[0012] The quantity of the polar oil(s) may range from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 20% to 40% by weight and more preferably from 20% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0013] The quantity of the (b) inorganic UV filter(s) can range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0014] The (c) preservatives may comprise two preservatives selected from lower alcohols, methylchloroisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, hydantoin derivatives, such as 1,3-dibromo-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (DMDMH), a para-hydroxybenzoate ester, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid and a salt thereof, such as sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone, glycerol caprylate, and polyols having antibacterial properties, and in particular selected from lower alcohols, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, hydroxyacetophenone, polyols having antibacterial properties, and combinations thereof.
[0015] Preferably, the (c) preservative(s) comprise(s) at least one polyol having antibacterial properties, preferably selected from caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexane diol, pentylene glycol, sorbitan octanoate, and combinations thereof; phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, hydroxyacetophenone, lower alcohol(s), in particular ethanol, and combinations thereof.
[0016] The amount of (c) preservatives may range from 0.1% to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0017] When it is / are present in the composition, the quantity of the lower alcohol(s) can range from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0018] When it is / are present in the composition, the amount of the polyol(s) having antibacterial properties can range from 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0019] (d) Vitamin B3 and its derivatives may be chosen from those represented by the following formula: HAS HAS" r
[0020] in which R indicates -CONH2, -COOH, or CH2OH, -CO-NH-CH2-COOH or -CO-NH-OH,
[0021] and nicotinic acid esters, amides derived from niacinamide, and esters of nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acids.
[0022] The amount of (d) vitamin B 3 and derivatives thereof can range from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight and, more preferably from 5% to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0023] The composition may be in the form of an emulsion.
[0024] The composition may be a cosmetic sun care composition for a keratinous substance such as the skin.
[0025] The composition may further comprise water in an amount ranging from 30% to 85% by weight, preferably from 40% to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0026] The composition may further comprise at least one organic UV filter, in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 12.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0027] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin substrate such as skin, comprising applying to the keratin substrate the composition according to the present invention. Best mode for carrying out the invention
[0028] After extensive research, the inventors surprisingly discovered that the compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof can enhance a preservative property of preservatives, and thus surprisingly discovered that even if the preservative content is low, a sufficient preservative effect can be effectively obtained, and thus finalized the invention.
[0029] Thus, the present invention relates to a composition comprising: a. at least one polar oil in an amount greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, b. at least one inorganic UV filter, c. at least two preservatives, and d. at least one compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof.
[0030] Since the composition according to the present invention has improved preservative efficiency, such as antimicrobial activity, it has sufficient storage property. In addition, since the amount of preservatives in the composition can be reduced, the problem of skin irritation due to a large amount of preservatives can be avoided. Furthermore, since the composition according to the present invention can include a large amount of the polar oils together with the inorganic UV filters, good sensory properties, such as spreadability during application and low stickiness can be obtained.
[0031] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is very suitable for cosmetic topical compositions for keratinous substances, such as the skin.
[0032] The cosmetic composition and process according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below. [Composition]
[0033] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance, such as the skin, and more preferably a sun care composition for a keratinous substance, such as the skin. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be intended to be used as a cosmetic topical composition.
[0034] Keratinous substance herein refers to a material containing keratin as a main constituent, and examples thereof are skin, scalp, lips, and the like. Preferably, the composition of the present invention is used for skin.
[0035] The composition according to the present invention includes (a) at least one polar oil, (b) at least one inorganic UV filter, (c) at least two preservatives, and (d) at least one compound chosen from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof.
[0036] The substances of the composition will be described in detail below. (Polar oil)
[0037] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one polar oil. Two or more polar oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of polar oil or a combination of different types of polar oils may be used.
[0038] The term "oil" designates any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure. Among the oils which may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of: volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils may be hydrocarbon oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.
[0039] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “silicone oil” designates an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular, at least one Si-O group.
[0040] The expression "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing essentially hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.
[0041] The expression "polar oil", within the meaning of the present invention, denotes an oil in which the solubility parameter δa at 25°C is different from 0 (J / cm3)' / 2. In particular, the expression "polar oil" denotes an oil in which the chemical structure is essentially formed, or even consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
[0042] The definition of Hansen's three-dimensional solubility parameters is described in the article by C.M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
[0043] According to Hansen space:
[0044] - ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;
[0045] - ôp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
[0046] - ôh characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.);
[0047] - ôa is determined by the equation:
[0048] [Math.matics] ôa = (ôp2 + 0112)½
[0049] The parameters ôp, ôh, ôDet ôa are expressed in (MPa)' / 2, a unit equivalent to (J / cm3)' / 2.
[0050] Hansen solubility parameters are calculated using HSPiP software version V4.1 based on a chemical structure; the method selected in the software is Y-MB or Yamamoto-Molecular Break.
[0051] This software is available for download from the official Hansen Settings and HSPiP Software website at www.hansen-solubility.com.
[0052] Preferably, the polar oils used according to the present invention have a ôa between 4 and 9.1, preferably a ôa between 6 and 9.1, more preferably between 7.3 and 9.1.
[0053] The polar oils used according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the polar oil is non-volatile.
[0054] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "non-volatile oil" designates an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mm Hg), at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
[0055] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "volatile oil" designates an oil (or a non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, in particular having a vapor pressure different from zero, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
[0056] Polar oils can be particularly chosen from hydrocarbon oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fatty alcohols and fatty acids.
[0057] As hydrocarbon oil suitable for implementing the invention, mention may be made in particular of:
[0058] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin; and
[0059] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate, for example sold under the trade name ELDEW PS203® by AJINOMOTO, triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol for which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or octanoic oils, wheat germ oils, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor oil, camelina, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, rosehip;or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818® by Dynamit Nobel, refined vegetable perhydrosqualene sold under the trade name Fitoderm by Cognis. ;
[0060] As synthetic polar oils, mention may be made of ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.
[0061] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0062] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0063] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0064] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0065] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; C12-C15 alkyl benzoates; and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0066] As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C[2-C22] fatty acids may be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0067] Examples of suitable sugars which may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and derivatives thereof, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0068] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6-C30, and preferably C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0069] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0070] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0071] Monoesters and diesters are more particularly used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0072] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0073] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ester oils are chosen from ester oils having at least one, preferably one, C6 to C22 hydrocarbon chain fraction, more preferably one C8 to C16 hydrocarbon chain fraction. Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, octanoate 2-Ethylhexyl, 2-Ethylhexyl Caprylate / Caprate, Methyl Palmitate, Ethyl Palmitate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Isohexyl Laurate, Hexyl Laurate, Isocetyl Stearate, Isopropyl Isostearate, Isopropyl Myristate, Isodecyl Oleate, Glyceryl Tri(2-Ethylhexanoate), Pentaerythrityl Tetra(2-Ethylhexanoate), 2-Ethylhexyl Succinate, Diethyl Sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0074] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0075] Examples of non-volatile polar silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as oils from the 48 range from Rhodia, and organomodified silicones, such as amino-modified silicones, alkoxy-modified silicones, and ether- or polyether-modified silicones.
[0076] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
[0077] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may be substituted or not by at least one hydroxyl group.
[0078] The fatty alcohol may preferably be chosen from C6-C30 fatty alcohols, preferably C10-C24 fatty alcohols, and more preferably C[2-C20] fatty alcohols.
[0079] Examples of the fatty alcohol include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, un-decylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0080] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0081] Thus, the fatty alcohol may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C6-C3o alcohols, preferably saturated, linear or branched C6-C3o alcohols, and more preferably saturated, linear or branched C12-C2o alcohols.
[0082] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" herein refers to an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol is selected from any linear or branched saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C12-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be used more preferably. Linear C16-C20 fatty alcohols may even more preferably be used.
[0083] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, un-decylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.
[0084] The expression “fatty acid” herein designates a monofunctional carboxylic acid with an aliphatic chain.
[0085] The fatty acid may be linear or branched. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is linear.
[0086] The fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from saturated fatty acids. In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from unsaturated fatty acids having 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0087] Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include C6-C28 fatty acids, preferably C8 to C24 fatty acids, more preferably C10 to C22 fatty acids, even more preferably C[2 to C20 fatty acids, and in particular C10 to C[8 fatty acids.
[0088] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from linear saturated fatty acids and linear unsaturated fatty acids having 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0089] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is chosen from linear fatty acids having from 6 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and in particular from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, in which the fatty acids are saturated or unsaturated with 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0090] The fatty acid can be represented by the following formula (I):
[0091] RCOOH(I)
[0092] in which:
[0093] R is a linear or branched C6-C28 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably linear, preferably a C8-C24 alkyl or alkenyl group, more preferably a C10-C20 alkyl or alkenyl group, and in particular a C12-C18 alkyl or alkenyl group. R may comprise 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0094] Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include arachidic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0095] The (a) polar oil is preferably selected from one or two or more of ester oils, fatty alcohols and fatty acids.
[0096] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two polar oils as defined above. In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two ester oils.
[0097] The amount of the (a) polar oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention is at least 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0098] The amount of the (a) polar oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 40% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0099] The amount of the polar oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Inorganic UV filter)
[0100] The composition according to the present invention includes (b) at least one inorganic UV filter. Two or more inorganic UV filters may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of inorganic UV filter or a combination of different types of inorganic UV filters may be used.
[0101] The term "UV" herein includes the UV-B region (260-320 nm in wavelength), the UV-A region (320-400 nm in wavelength) and the high energy visible light region (400-450 nm in wavelength). Therefore, a UV filter means any material that has filtering effects in the wavelength of UV rays, in particular the UV-A, UV-B and high energy visible light regions.
[0102] The (b) inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The (b) inorganic UV filter used for the present invention is insoluble in water in solvents such as water and ethanol commonly used in cosmetics, but may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic.
[0103] It is preferable that the (b) inorganic UV filter is in the form of a fine particle such that its average (primary) particle diameter ranges from 1 nm to 200 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 150 nm, and more preferably from 10 nm to 100 nm. The average (primary) particle size or the average (primary) particle diameter here is an arithmetic mean diameter. Preferably, the (b) inorganic UV filters may have an average primary particle size ranging from 5 nm to 90 nm, preferably from 10 nm to 50 nm.
[0104] The term "average primary particle size" as used herein may represent a volume average size diameter that is given by the statistical half-population particle size distribution, designated D50. For example, the volume average size diameter may be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Malvem Corp.'s Mastersizer 2000.
[0105] The (b) inorganic UV filter may be selected from the group consisting of silicon carbide, metal oxides which may or may not be coated, and mixtures thereof.
[0106] Preferably, the (b) inorganic UV filter is formed from metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide (amorphous or crystalline in the rutile and / or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, which are all UV photoprotective agents well known per se. Preferably, the (b) inorganic UV filters may be chosen from titanium dioxide (TiO2), zinc oxide and, more preferably, titanium dioxide.
[0107] The (b) inorganic UV filter may be coated or uncoated. The (b) inorganic UV filter may have at least one coating. The coating may comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or salts thereof (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters and (per)fluorinated compounds.
[0108] It is preferable that the coating includes at least one organic UV filter. As an organic UV filter in the coating, a dibenzoylmethane derivative such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and 2,2'-Methylenebis[6-(2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-Tetramethyl-Butyl)Phenol] (Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol) marketed under the name "TINOSORB M" by BASF may be preferable.
[0109] In a known manner, the silicones in the coating(s) may be polymers or organosilicon oligomers comprising a linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitable functional silanes and essentially composed of repeating main units in which the silicon atoms are linked to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom.
[0110] The term “silicones” also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkylsilanes.
[0111] The silicones used for the coating(s) may preferably be chosen from the group consisting of alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes. Even more preferably, the silicones are chosen from the group consisting of octyltrimethylsilanes, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrosiloxanes.
[0112] Of course, inorganic UV filters consisting of metal oxides may, before their treatment with silicones, have been treated with other surfactants, in particular with cerium oxide compounds, alumina, silica, aluminum, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.
[0113] The coated inorganic UV filter may have been prepared by subjecting the inorganic UV filter to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with any of the compounds described above, as well as polyethylenes, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum alkoxides), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, and those shown, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64.
[0114] The coated inorganic UV filters may be titanium oxides coated with:
[0115] - silica, such as the product “Sunveil” from Ikeda;
[0116] - silica and iron oxide, such as the product “Sunveil F” from Ikeda;
[0117] - silica and alumina, such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA” from Tayca, “Tioveil” from Tioxide and “Mirasun TiW 60” from Rhodia;
[0118] - alumina, such as the products “Tipaque TTO-55 (B)” and “Tipaque TTO-55 (A)” by Ishihara, and “UVT 14 / 4” by Kemira;
[0119] - alumina and aluminum stearate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z or MT-01” from Tayca, the products “Solaveil CT-10 W” and “Solaveil CT 100” from Uniqema, and the product “Eusolex T-AVO” from Merck;
[0120] - alumina and aluminum laurate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S » from Tayca;
[0121] - iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F » from Tayca;
[0122] - zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as the product “BR351” from Tayca;
[0123] - silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS”, “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS” and “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS” from Tayca;
[0124] - silica, alumina and aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone, such that the product “STT-30-DS” from Titan Kogyo;
[0125] - silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product “UV-Titan X 195” from Kemira;
[0126] - alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products “Tipaque TTO-55 (S)” from Ishihara or “UV Titan M 262” from Kemira;
[0127] - triethanolamine, such as the product “STT-65-S” from Titan Kogyo;
[0128] - stearic acid, such as the product “Tipaque TTO-55 (C)” from Ishihara; or
[0129] - sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W » from Tayca.
[0130] Other silicone-treated titanium oxide pigments are preferably TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the average size of the individual particles is 25 and 40 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "T 805" by Degussa Silices, TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and for which the average size of the individual particles is 21 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "70250 Cardre UF TiO2Si3" by Cardre, and anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrosiloxane and for which the average size of the individual particles is 25 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "Microtitanium Dioxide USP carbonate Hydrophobie" by Color Techniques.
[0131] Preferably, the following coated TiO2 can be used as a coated inorganic UV filter:
[0132] Stearic acid (and) Aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's product "MT-100 TV", with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
[0133] Dimethicone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as the product "SA-TTO-S4" from Miyoshi Kasei, with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
[0134] Silica (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's product “MT-100 WP”, with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
[0135] Dimethicone (and) Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's product "MT-Y02" and "MT-Y-110 M3S", with an average primary particle diameter of 10 nm;
[0136] Dimethicone (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as the product Miyoshi Kasei's "SA-TTO-S3", with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
[0137] Dimethicone (and) Alumina (and) TiO2, such as the product “UV TITAN M170” from Sachtleben, with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm; and
[0138] Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Alginic Acid (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's product "MT-100 AQ", with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm.
[0139] In terms of UV filtering ability, TiO2 coated with at least one organic UV filter is more preferable. For example, Avobenzone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2 such as Tayca's product "HXMT-100ZA", with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm, can be used.
[0140] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Tayca under the trademarks “Microtitanium Dioxide MT500B” or “Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B”, by Degussa under the trademark “P 25”, by Wacker under the trademark “Transparent Titanium Oxide PW”, by Miyoshi Kasei under the trademark “UFTR”, by Tomen under the trademark “ITS”, and by Tioxide under the trademark “Tioveil AQ”.
[0141] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0142] - those marketed under the brand name “Z-cote” by Sunsmart;
[0143] - those marketed under the brand name “Nanox” by Elementis; and
[0144] - those marketed under the brand name “Nanogard WCD 2025” by Nanophase Technologies.
[0145] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0146] - those marketed under the brand name “Oxide Zinc CS-5” by Toshiba (coated ZnO of polymethylhydrosiloxane);
[0147] - those marketed under the brand name “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN” by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate);
[0148] - those marketed under the brand name “Daitopersion Zn-30” and “Daitopersion Zn- 50” by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane / cyclopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% silica-coated nano-zinc oxides and polymethylhydrosiloxane);
[0149] - those marketed under the brand name “NFD Ultrafine ZnO” by Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a perfluoroalkylethyl-based copolymer in the form of a dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane);
[0150] - those marketed under the brand name “SPD-Z1” by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with a silicone-grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);
[0151] - those marketed under the brand name “Escalol Z100” by ISP (ZnO treated with alumina dispersed in a mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene / methicone copolymer);
[0152] - those marketed under the brand name “Fuji ZnO-SMS-10” by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); and those marketed under the brand name “Nanox Gel TN” by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
[0153] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments are marketed, for example, under the brand name “Colloidal Cerium Oxide” by Rhone-Poulenc.
[0154] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the brands “Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)”, “Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ”, “Nanogard FE 45R AQ” and “Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)”, or by Mitsubishi under the brand “TY-220”.
[0155] Coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the brands “Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)”, “Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)”, “Nanogard FE 45 BL 345” and “Nanogard FE 45 BL” or by BASF under the brand “Transparent iron oxide”.
[0156] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular, of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including a mixture of equal weights of titanium dioxide coated with silica and cerium dioxide coated with silica marketed by Ikeda under the brand name "Sunveil A", as well as a mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product "M 261" marketed by Kemira, or coated with alumina, silica, and glycerol, such as the product "M 211" marketed by Kemira.
[0157] Coated inorganic UV filters are preferable, since the UV filtering effects of the inorganic UV filters can be enhanced. In addition, the coating(s) can help to uniformly or homogeneously disperse the UV filters in the composition and film on a keratin substrate such as skin according to the present invention.
[0158] The quantity of the (b) inorganic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 3% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0159] The quantity of the (b) inorganic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0160] The amount of the (b) inorganic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Conservatives)
[0161] The composition according to the present invention includes (c) at least two preservatives.
[0162] The term "preservative" herein refers to substances included for the purpose of inhibiting a proliferation of microbes or to reduce a rate of proliferation of microbes in products. Thus, “preservative” here can refer to an antibacterial agent or a substance having antibacterial properties.
[0163] The (c) preservatives comprise at least two types of preservatives. In a preferred embodiment, the (c) preservatives comprise three or more, preferably three types of preservatives.
[0164] Preservatives may include, for example, lower alcohols, methyl chloroisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, hydantoin derivatives, such as 1,3-dibromo-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (DMDMH), parahydroxybenzoate ester, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid and a salt thereof, such as sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone, polyols having antibacterial properties, and the like.
[0165] The lower alcohol may be C1-C4 lower alcohols, which may be represented by the formula: R-OH, where R indicates a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group. Thus, the lower alcohol is a mono-lower alcohol. Preferably, the lower alcohol is selected from C2-C3 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, propanol and a combination thereof, and in particular ethanol.
[0166] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" must be understood as designating any aliphatic compound comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. The polyol may be a compound of linear, branched or alicyclic alkyl type, saturated or unsaturated, carrying at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.
[0167] "Polyols having antibacterial properties" herein refers to polyols commonly used as preservatives. Polyols having antibacterial properties are preferably selected from caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexane diol, pentylene glycol, sorbitan octanoate, and combinations thereof.
[0168] Preferably, the (c) preservatives comprise at least one polyol having antibacterial properties, which is preferably selected from caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexane diol, pentylene glycol, sorbitan octanoate, and combinations thereof, in particular caprylyl glycol.
[0169] Preferably, the (c) preservatives are selected from C2-C3 lower alcohols, such as ethanol and propanol, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, hydroxyacetophenone, polyols having antibacterial properties, in particular caprylyl glycol, and combinations thereof.
[0170] In a preferred embodiment, the (c) preservatives comprise a first preservative(s) selected from polyols having antibacterial properties, in particular caprylyl glycol, and the other preservative(s) selected among phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, hydroxyacetophenone, lower alcohol(s), in particular ethanol, and combinations thereof.
[0171] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) preservatives comprise at least one lower alcohol, such as ethanol. In another embodiment of the present invention, the (c) preservatives comprise at least one lower alcohol, such as ethanol, and polyols having antibacterial properties, in particular caprylyl glycol. In yet another embodiment of the present invention, the (c) preservatives comprise three types of preservatives comprising at least one polyol having antibacterial properties, in particular caprylyl glycol, at least one lower alcohol, such as ethanol, and at least one selected from phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, hydroxyacetophenone, and combinations thereof.
[0172] The quantity of the (c) preservative(s) in the composition may be greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.2% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0173] The quantity of the (c) preservative(s) in the composition may be less than or equal to 6% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0174] The amount of the (c) preservative(s) in the composition may be from 0.1% to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0175] When present in the composition, the amount of the (c) preservative(s) chosen from phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, hydroxyacetophenone, and combinations thereof may be from 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0176] When present in the composition, the amount of the polyol(s) having antibacterial properties, in particular caprylyl glycol, in the composition may be from 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0177] When it is / are present in the composition, the quantity of the lower alcohol(s), in particular ethanol, in the composition may be greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0178] When present in the composition, the quantity of alcohol(s) lower(s), in particular ethanol, in the composition may be less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 4% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0179] When present in the composition, the amount of the lower alcohol(s), in particular ethanol, in the composition may be from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Vitamin B3 and its derivatives)
[0180] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof. Two (d) or more vitamins B3 and derivatives thereof may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of vitamin B3 or derivatives thereof or a combination of different types of vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof may be used.
[0181] Vitamin B3, also called vitamin PP, is a compound with the following formula:
[0182] wherein R may be -CONH2 (niacinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH2OH (nicotinic alcohol), -CO-NH-CH2-COOH (nicotinuric acid), or -CO-NH-OH (niconityl hydroxamic acid). Niacinamide is preferred.
[0183] Vitamin B3 derivatives that may be cited include, for example, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of -CONH2, reaction products with carboxylic acids and amino acids, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.
[0184] The following derivatives may also be mentioned: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinoline acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, ni-fenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.
[0185] Other vitamin B3 derivatives that may also be cited include its inorganic salts, such as chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates, and its organic salts, such as salts obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, such as acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.
[0186] It is preferable that the (d) compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof has a log P of -0.7 to 6, and preferably of -0.5 to 4.
[0187] A log P value is a value of the base ten logarithm of the apparent octan-l-ol / water partition coefficient. Log p values are known and are determined by a standard test that determines the concentration of the (d) compound in octan-l-ol and water. Log P can be calculated according to the method described in the article by Meylan and Howard: Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. This value can also be calculated using many commercially available software packages that determine log P based on the structure of a molecule. An example is the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's Epiwin software.
[0188] The values can be calculated using the ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) Solaris V4.67 software; they can also be obtained from Exploring QSAR: hydrophobicity, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference work, 1995). There is also a website that provides estimated values (address: http: / / esc.syrres.com / interkow / kowdemo.htm).
[0189] It is more preferable that the (d) compound is niacinamide.
[0190] The quantity of the (d) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 3% by weight and, more preferably, greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0191] The quantity of the (d) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0192] The amount of the (d) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Other substances) • Water
[0193] The composition according to the present invention may comprise water.
[0194] The amount of water in the composition may be greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 40% by weight, more preferably greater or equal to 50% by weight, and / or less than or equal to 85% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 75% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0195] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 30% to 85% by weight, preferably from 40% to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Organic UV filter
[0196] The composition according to the present invention may or may not comprise at least one organic UV filter. Two or more organic UV filters may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of organic UV filter or a combination of different types of organic UV filters may be used.
[0197] The organic UV filter(s) used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region, preferably in each of the UV-A and UV-B regions alone or in combination. Therefore, the organic UV filter(s) used in the present invention include(s) a UV-A filter capable of absorbing UV radiation from 320 to 400 nm, a UV-B filter capable of absorbing UV radiation from 280 to 320 nm, and a UV-A and UV-B filter capable of absorbing UV radiation from 280 to 400 nm.
[0198] The organic UV filter of the present invention is preferably lipophilic. The expression "lipophilic UV filter" herein refers to UV filters which are soluble in oils at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oils at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).
[0199] The organic UV filter can be solid or liquid. The terms “solid” and “liquid” mean solid and liquid, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).
[0200] Organic UV-A filters used in the present invention may include, but are not limited to, aminobenzophenone compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, anthranilic acid compounds, and 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds.
[0201] As aminobenzophenone compounds, mention may be made of n-hexyl 2-(4-diethlamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, a variant of the name of which is hexyl diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate (DHHB), sold under the trade name “Uvinul A+” from BASF.
[0202] As dibenzoylmethane compounds, mention may be made of: 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, sold under the name “Eusolex 8020” from Merck, l-(4-methoxy-l-benzofuran-5-yl)-3-phenylpropane-l,3-dione, sold under the name “Pongamol” from Quest, l-(4-(tert-butyl)phenyl)-3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)propane-l,3-dione, and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, sold under the trade name “Parsol 1789” from Hoffmann- The Rock.
[0203] As anthranilic acid compounds, mention may be made of menthyl anthranilate marketed under the name “NEO HELIPAN MA” by Symrise.
[0204] As 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, mention may be made of 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene and diphenyl butadiene malonates and malononitriles.
[0205] The organic UV-B filters used in the present invention may include, but are not limited to, triazine compounds, para-aminobenzoic acid compounds, salicylic compounds, cinnamate compounds, [3,[3-diphenylacrylate compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds, phenylbenzi-midazole compounds, imidazoline compounds, benzahnalonate compounds and merocyanine compounds.
[0206] As triazine compounds, mention may be made of ethylhexyl triazone, marketed under the name "UVINUL T-150" by BASF, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the name "UVASORB HEB" by SIGMA 2V, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, and 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine.
[0207] Para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives that may be mentioned include para-aminobenzoates (PABA), for example, ethyl PABA (para-aminobenzoate), ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed under the name "ESCALOL 5972" from ISP.
[0208] As salicylic compounds, mention may be made of homosalate, marketed under the name “Eusolex HMS” by Rona / EM Industries, and ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the name “NEO HELIOPAN OS” by Symrise.
[0209] Cinnamate compounds that may be mentioned include ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the name "PARSOL CX" by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, isopropyl ethoxy cinnamate, isoamyl methoxy cinnamate, marketed under the name "NEO HELIOPAN E 1000" by Symrise, dii-isopropyl methylcinnamate, cinoxate and glyceryl dimethoxycinnamate ethylhexanoate.
[0210] As [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds, mention may be made of octocrylene, marketed under the name “UVINUL N539” by BASF, and etocrylene, marketed under the name “UVINUL N35” by BASF.
[0211] As benzylidenecamphor compounds, mention may be made of 3-benzylidenecamphor, marketed under the name “MEXORYL SD” by CHIMEX, methylbenzylidenecamphor, marketed under the name “EUSOLEX 6300” by MERCK, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidenecamphor, marketed under the name “MEXORYL SW” by CHIMEX, and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, marketed under the name “Mexoryl SX” by Chimex.
[0212] As phenylbenzimidazole compounds, mention may be made of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, marketed under the name "Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan AP" by Haarmann and Reimer.
[0213] As imidazoline compounds, mention may be made of ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
[0214] As benzalmalonate compounds, mention may be made of a polyorganosiloxane containing a benzalmalonate moiety, for example, Polysilicone-15, marketed under the name “Parsol SLX” by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, and di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.
[0215] The organic UV filters of the present invention may comprise lipophilic organic UV-A and UV-B filters, which cover the UV-A and UV-B regions. Non-limiting examples of the lipophilic organic UV-A and UV-B filters include:
[0216] - benzophenone compounds, such as benzophenone-1 marketed under the name “UVINUL 400” by BASF, benzophenone-2 marketed under the name “UVINUL 500” by BASF, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone marketed under the name “UVINUL M40” by BASF, benzophenone-6 marketed under the name “Helisorb 11” by Norquay, benzophenone-8 marketed under the name “Spectra-Sorb UV-24” by American Cyanamid, benzophenone-10, benzophenone-11, and benzophenone-12;
[0217] - benzotriazole compounds such as drometrizole trisiloxane marketed under the name “Silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie, bumetrizole marketed under the name “TINOGUARTD AS” by CIBA-GEIGY and phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear;
[0218] - bis-resorcinyl triazine compounds, such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol me- thoxyphenyl triazine marketed under the name “TINOSORB S” by CIBA-GEIGY; and
[0219] - benzoxazole compounds, such as 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, marketed under the name "Uvasorb K2A" by Sigma 3V.
[0220] Preferably, the organic UV filter may be chosen from aminobenzophenone compounds, such as diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB); triazine compounds, such as ethylhexyl triazone; and benzotriazole compounds, such as drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0221] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the organic UV filter of the present invention comprises a combination of at least one UV-A filter organic and at least one organic UV-B filter.
[0222] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the organic UV filter of the present invention comprises a combination of at least one organic UV-A filter; at least one organic UV-B filter; and at least one organic UV-A and UV-B filter.
[0223] The amount of organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 2% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0224] The amount of organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0225] The amount of the organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Polyol
[0226] The composition according to the present invention may or may not comprise at least one polyol. Two or more polyols may be combined.
[0227] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” must be understood as designating any aliphatic compound comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
[0228] The polyol may be a compound of linear, branched or alicyclic alkyl type, saturated or unsaturated, carrying at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.
[0229] It is understood that polyol herein includes all polyols which may not exhibit antibacterial properties as explained above.
[0230] Preferably, the polyol of the present invention is a compound of linear or branched alkyl type, preferably linear carrying at least two -OH functions, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functions, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functions, and even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functions on the alkyl chain.
[0231] The polyols which can be used in the composition of the present invention can be those having in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0232] The polyols which can be used in the composition of the present invention are chosen from linear or branched polyols, preferably linear polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of:
[0233] - diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol; and
[0234] - triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),
[0235] - and mixtures thereof.
[0236] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises two or more polyols in combination.
[0237] The amount of the polyol(s) in the composition of the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Surfactant
[0238] The composition according to the present invention may or may not comprise at least one surfactant chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic surfactants, used alone or as a mixture.
[0239] In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one surfactant selected from nonionic surfactants and anionic surfactants. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises both at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one anionic surfactant in combination.
[0240] The non-ionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.
[0241] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from a polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol) and a polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid).
[0242] Examples of polyoxyethylene fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols) which may be cited include the addition products of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing from 7 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 6 to 12 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Laureth-6 to Laureth-12); the addition products of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 5 to 50 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Beheneth-5 to Beheneth-50); the addition products of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), in particular those containing from 7 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Ceteareth-7 to Ceteareth-30); addition products of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 7 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Ceteth-7 to Ceteth-30);ethylene oxide adducts with stearyl alcohol, especially those containing 7 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Steareth-7 to Steareth-30); oxide adducts; of ethylene with isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 8 to 50 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Isosteareth-8 to Isosteareth-50); and mixtures thereof.
[0243] Examples of polyoxyethylene fatty esters that may be cited include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
[0244] As monoglyceryl esters of fatty acids, preferably of C12-C22 fatty acids, mention may be made of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof, and as their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, mention may be made of the mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tristearate), such as glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, tristearate and / or triisostearate) PEG-20. Preferably, the polyoxyalkylene derivative of fatty acid monoglyceryl ester includes 10 to 40 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.
[0245] Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
[0246] The anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulfosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl sulfoacetates, polypeptides, and mixtures thereof.
[0247] Examples of phosphates and alkyl phosphates that may be mentioned are monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl monophosphate, sold under the name MAP 20® by Kao Chemicals, dodecyl phosphate potassium salt, the mixture of mono- and diesters (mainly diester) sold under the name Crafol AP-31® by Cognis, the mixture of octyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Crafol AP-20® by Cognis, the mixture of monoester and diester of ethoxylated 2-butyloctyl phosphate (7 moles of EO), sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester® by Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt of C12-C13 monoalkyl phosphate, sold under the references Arlatone MAP 230K-40® and Arlatone MAP 230T-60® by Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate, sold under the name Dermalcare MAP XC-99 / 09® by Rhodia Chimie, and potassium cetyl phosphate, sold under the name Arlatone MAP 160K by Uniqema.
[0248] The amount of the surfactant(s) in the composition may be from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Thickener
[0249] The composition according to the present invention may or may not comprise at least one thickener. Two or more thickeners may be combined. The thickener may be hydrophilic or lipophilic.
[0250] The thickener may be an ionic or non-ionic, associative or non-associative polymer. As used herein, non-associative thickeners may be polymeric thickeners not containing a Cio-C3o fatty chain.
[0251] The term "hydrophilic" herein refers to materials that are soluble in water at a concentration greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).
[0252] The hydrophilic thickener(s) may be one or more natural or synthetic hydrophilic thickener(s). The hydrophilic thickener(s) may be preferentially chosen from thickening polymers bearing sugar units, such as non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units.
[0253] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “sugar unit” means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.
[0254] The sugar units may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.
[0255] The sugar units that may be included in the hydrophilic thickening polymers of the present invention are preferably derived from one or more of the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
[0256] It is preferable to choose the thickener from among polysaccharides.
[0257] Thickening polymers carrying sugar units which may in particular be cited include native gums such as: a. tree or shrub exudates, including:
[0258] - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
[0259] - gum ghatti (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);
[0260] - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
[0261] - gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); a. gums derived from algae, including:
[0262] - agar-agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);
[0263] - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid);
[0264] - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and sulfate anhydrogalactose); a. gums derived from seeds or tubers, including:
[0265] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0266] - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0267] - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0268] - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);
[0269] - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); a. microbial gums, including:
[0270] - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);
[0271] - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
[0272] - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); a. plant extracts, including:
[0273] - cellulose (glucose polymer);
[0274] - starch (glucose polymer) and
[0275] - inulin.
[0276] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. As a physical treatment, temperature can in particular be mentioned. Preferably, the thickening polymers carrying sugar units are not treated either chemically or physically.
[0277] Chemical treatments that may be mentioned, but are not limited to, esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments may give polymers that may, for example, be non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric. Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments may be applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.
[0278] The lipophilic thickener may be in the form of a polymer or particles.
[0279] The lipophilic polymer thickener may be selected from carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopol products (carbomers) and Pemulen products (acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer) or polymers having the INCI name "Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate", such as Intelimer® products from Air Products, such as Intelimer® IPA 13-1 product, which is a polystearyl acrylate, or Intelimer® IPA 13-6 product, which is a behenyl polymer.
[0280] The lipophilic thickener according to the present invention may be chosen from:
[0281] - organomodified clays, which are clays treated with selected compounds particularly among quaternary amines and tertiary amines. Organomodified clays that may be cited include organomodified bentonites, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, and organomodified hectorites such as the products sold under the names Bentone 27 and Bentone 38 by the company Rheox. Examples include modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel® VS38 from Rheox), modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with a C10 to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, for example hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (disteardimonium hectorite), such as the product sold under the name Bentone 38VCG by Elementis or the product sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by Rheox, or the product sold under the name Bentone Gel® V5 5V by Elementis, or the product sold under the name Bentone gel® ISD V by Elementis;
[0282] - and mixtures thereof.
[0283] Among the non-associative polymeric thickeners without sugar units which can be used as (b) polymeric thickener, mention may be made, without limitation, of crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, crosslinked homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulfonic acid and their crosslinked copolymers of acrylamide, homopolymers of ammonium acrylate or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide, alone or mixed.
[0284] The associative polymer which can be used according to the invention designates water-soluble polymers which are capable, in an aqueous medium, of combining reversibly with each other or with other molecules.
[0285] Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0286] The associative polymer which can be used according to the invention can be of the anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic type, such as the polymers sold under the names Pemulen TRI or TR2 by the company Goodrich (INCI: Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Salcare SC90 from the company Ciba, Aculyn 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company Rohm & Haas and Elfacos T210 and T212 by the company Akzo.
[0287] The amount of the thickener(s) in the composition may be from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Charge
[0288] The composition according to the present invention may or may not comprise at least one filler other than (b) inorganic UV filter. Two or more fillers may be combined. The filler may be inorganic or organic, preferably inorganic.
[0289] The term “filler” should be understood as meaning mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.
[0290] The average particle size of the filler is not limited, but may range from 0.3 qm to 100 qm, preferably from 0.5 qm to 50 qm or less, and more preferably from 1 qm to 20 qm. The term "average particle size" as used herein represents a number-average size average diameter that is given by the statistical half-population particle size distribution, designated D50. For example, the number-average size average diameter may be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 from Malvem Corp.
[0291] The filler can be of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, regardless of the crystallographic shape (e.g. lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).
[0292] The filler may be an inorganic or organic powder, which may or may not be surface coated.
[0293] As inorganic filler, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, hollow silica, magnesium aluminum silicate, titanium dioxide, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorophlogopite, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, perlite, lauroyl lysine, metallic soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof, optionally with hydrophilic or hydrophobic treatment.
[0294] As organic filler, mention may be made of acrylic polymer powders, silicone powders, wax powders, polyamide powders, urethane polymer, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, polyacrylonitrile powders, poly-[3-alanine] powders, polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, (meth)acrylic or (meth)acrylate powders, lauroyllysine, starch, cellulose powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, and mixtures thereof.
[0295] The (meth)acrylic or (meth)acrylate powders may include, for example, polymethyl methacrylate crosslinked polymer, methyl methacrylate / glycol dimethacrylate crosslinked polymer, polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders, polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders, and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders.
[0296] The amount of the filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • pH correction agent
[0297] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be corrected to the desired value using at least one pH correcting agent, such as an acidifying agent or a basifying agent, for example, which are commonly used in cosmetic products.
[0298] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3 to 8, preferably from 3.5 to 7.0 and, more preferably, from 4.0 to 6.0.
[0299] Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid and sulfonic acids.
[0300] Among the basifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium or potassium hydroxide and compounds of the formula below: @ FÇ. Rb Ww-N Rc
[0301] in which
[0302] - W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof.
[0303] The pH correction agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Adjuvants
[0304] The compositions according to the present invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for sun care products, which may be chosen from a physiologically acceptable medium, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof, antioxidants, neutralizing agents, sequestering agents, buffers, perfumes, emollients, colorants and / or pigments, film-forming agents and / or thickeners, ceramides, co-preservatives and opacifying agents.
[0305] The adjuvants may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Shape]
[0306] The composition according to the present invention may be present in any form. For example, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a solution, an emulsion, a lotion, a milky lotion, a tonic, a cream, a liquid gel, a paste, a serum.
[0307] In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase. The emulsion may be in O / W or W / O form. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is in the form of an O / W emulsion.
[0308] The expression "W / O emulsion" or "water-in-oil emulsion" designates any macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising a continuous fatty or oily phase and aqueous or water phases in the form of droplets dispersed in said fatty or oily phase. The expression "O / W emulsion" or "oil-in-water emulsion" designates any macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising a continuous aqueous or water phase and fatty or oily phases in the form of droplets dispersed in the aqueous or water phase.
[0309] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing substances (a) to (d), as essential substances, as well as one or more optional substances, as explained above. In the case where at least one of the substances is solid at room temperature, the substance can be heated until it is melted or dissolved. [Cosmetic process]
[0310] The present invention also relates to:
[0311] a cosmetic and / or non-therapeutic process for a keratinous substrate such as the skin, comprising the application to the keratin substrate of the composition according to the present invention.
[0312] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic and / or non-therapeutic process for a keratinous substrate, such as the skin, comprising the application to the keratin substrate of the composition comprising: a. at least one polar oil in an amount greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, b. at least one inorganic UV filter, and c. at least two curators, and d. at least one compound chosen from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof.
[0313] The inventors have surprisingly discovered that the compound chosen from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof can enhance a preservative property of preservatives, and thus surprisingly discovered that even if the preservative content is low, a sufficient preservative effect can be effectively achieved.
[0314] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic use of (d) at at least one compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof to enhance the preservative effectiveness, such as an antimicrobial property, of a composition comprising: a. at least one polar oil in an amount greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, b. at least one inorganic UV filter, and c. at least two conservatives.
[0315] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. an amount greater than or equal to 20% by weight of at least one polar oil comprising one or two or more of ester oils, fatty alcohols and fatty acids; b. from 1% to 20% by weight of at least one inorganic UV filter; c. from 0.1% to 6% by weight of at least two preservatives in total, selected from lower alcohols, methylchloroisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, hydantoin derivatives, such as 1,3-dibromo-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (DMDMH), a parahydroxybenzoate ester, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid and a salt thereof, such as sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone, glycerol caprylate, polyols having antibacterial properties, and combinations thereof; and d. from 1% to 15% by weight of at least one compound chosen from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof.
[0316] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 20% to 30% by weight of at least one polar oil comprising one or two or more of: one or more ester oils preferably chosen from ester oils having at least one, preferably one, C6 to C22 hydrocarbon chain fraction, more preferably one C8 to C16 hydrocarbon chain fraction, in particular ester oils chosen from a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, and combinations thereof; one or more fatty alcohols preferably chosen from C6-C30 fatty alcohols, preferably C10-C24 fatty alcohols, and more preferably C12-C20 fatty alcohols, in particular cetyl alcohol; and one or more fatty acids preferably chosen from C6-C28 fatty acids, preferably from C10 to C22 fatty acids, even more preferably from C14 to C18 fatty acids, for example stearic acid; b. from 5% to 12% by weight of at least one inorganic UV filter chosen from titanium dioxide; c. at least two preservatives: the first preservative is composed of 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of at least one polyol having antibacterial properties, in particular caprylyl glycol; and the other preservative(s) chosen being composed of 0.3% to 0.6% by weight of at least one chosen from phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, hydroxyacetophenone, and combinations thereof, and / or 1.5% to 3% by weight of ethanol; and d. 5% to 7.5% by weight of niacinamide. EXAMPLES
[0317] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples which should not, however, be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Compositions]
[0318] Each of the O / W emulsion compositions according to Examples 1 to 5 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 5) and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 (Ex. Comp. 1 to Ex. Comp. 6) was prepared by mixing the substances listed in the following Tables 1 and 2. The numerical values in parentheses for titanium dioxide and silica indicate the average particle size of the powdered substances. Titanium dioxide was used as an inorganic UV filter. The numerical values for the amounts of the substances are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials.
[0319] [Table 1] Table 1 Substances Comp. 1 Comp. 2 Comp. 3 Comp. 4 Comp. 5 Cl2-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4.8 4.8 4.8 4.8 4.8 Isopropyl Myristate 9 8 8 8 8 Diisopropyl Sebacate 8 8 8 8 8 Stearic Acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Cetyl Alcohol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Niacinamide 5 5 5 5 5 Phenoxyethanol - 0.6 0.6 - - Chlorphenesin - - - 0.6 - Hydroxyacetophenone - - - - 0.6 Ethanol 3 3 - - - Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Potassium Hydroxide 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Propylene Glycol 3 3 3 3 3 Glycerin 3 3 3 3 3 Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 1 1 1 1 1 Glyceryl Stearate 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 PEG-100 Stearate 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer*1 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Poly(C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate)*2 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Xanthan Gum 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Ethylhexyl Triazone 3 3 3 3 3 Drometrizole Trisiloxane 6 6 6 6 6 Hexyl diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate - 1 1 1 1 Titanium dioxide (15 nm) 7 7 7 7 7 Silica (5 pm) 1 1 1 1 1 Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100
[0320] *1: Sold by LUBRIZOL under the trade name Pemulen™ TR-1 polymer
[0321] *2: sold by EVONIK under the trade name TEGO® SP 13-1
[0322] [Table 2] Table 2 Substances Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Ex. Comp. 3 Ex. Comp. 4 Ex. Comp. 5 Ex. Comp. 6 Cl2-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4.8 4.8 4.8 4.8 2.4 3.6 Isopropyl Myristate 8 8 8 8 4 5.3 Diisopropyl Sebacate 8 8 8 8 4 5.3 Stearic Acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Cetyl Alcohol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Niacinamide 5 - - - 5 5 Phenoxyethanol - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.6 0.6 Chlorphenesin - 0.3 - 0.3 - - Ethanol - - 3 3 3 3 Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Potassium Hydroxide 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.22 0.2 0.2 Propylene Glycol 3 3 3 3 3 3 Glycerin 3 3 3 3 3 3 Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 1 1 1 1 1 1 Glyceryl Stearate 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 PEG-100 Stearate 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer ** 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Poly(C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate) *2 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Xanthan Gum 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Ethylhexyl triazone 3 3 3 3 3 3 Drometrizole trisiloxane 6 6 6 6 6 6 Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 1 1 1 1 1 1 Titanium dioxide (15 nm) 7 7 7 7 7 7 Silica (5 qm) 1 1 1 1 1 1 Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100
[0323] *1: Sold by LUBRIZOL under the trade name Pemulen™ TR-1 polymer
[0324] *2: sold by EVONIK under the trade name TEGO® SP 13-1 [Assessment]
[0325] (Description of the antimicrobial efficacy test protocol)
[0326] The effectiveness of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was evaluated using a challenge test which makes it possible to determine the level of antimicrobial protection of a composition. The test consists of artificial contamination of the product under test with various microorganisms (bacteria, yeasts and molds) and monitoring the number of viable germs over time. A product which is satisfactorily protected must allow more or less rapid decontamination of the introduced microorganisms depending on the microbial strains, the type of product and the packaging item.
[0327] Each of the composition was dispensed into as many pill bottles as there were species of microorganisms being tested. A calibrated suspension of microorganisms was introduced into each of these pill bottles. The microorganisms included a bacterium (Enterococcus faecalis), a yeast (Candida albicans) and a mold (Aspergillus brasiliensis). The sample was taken from the bottles after 7 days of contact between the composition and the germ. The sample was then diluted and inoculated into a Petri dish to count the number of germs. The kinetics (growth or decline) of a given germ at a given time was then expressed as a logarithmic reduction. The antimicrobial efficacy was assessed on the basis of the CFU / g value.
[0328] Good: CFU / g was less than 200
[0329] Passable: CFU / g was greater than 200 and less than 1.0 x 105, which is still possible as a cosmetic product
[0330] Bad: CFU / g was greater than or equal to 1.0 x 105
[0331] The results are shown in Table 3 below.
[0332] [Table 3]Table 3 Ex.l Ex.2 Com p. 3 Com p.4 Com p. 5 Ex. Ex.l Ex. Ex.2 Ex. Com Ex. Com p. 3 p.4 Initial viable bacteria (CFU / g) Enteroc occus Faecalis 1.6E+ 06 1.8E+ 06 2.0E+ 06 2.0E +06 2.0E +06 1.3E+ 06 2.1E+ 06 1.9E+ 06 Candida s. 2.1E+ 06 1.8E+ 06 2.0E+ 06 2.0E +06 2.0E +06 1.6E+ 06 1.4E+ 06 1.7E+ 06 1.4E+ 06 Aspergillosis Niger 1.9E+ 06 1.80E+ 2.6E+2. +06 2.0E+06 2.4E+ 06 1.7E+ 06 2.5E+ 06 2.0E+ 06 After storage (CFU / g) Enteroc occus Faecalis <200 <100 <100 <100 <100 2.0E+ 03 7.00E+ l 05 Candida Albicans s <200 <100 <100 <100 <100 <200 <200 2.1E+ 02 <200 Aspergi llus Niger 5.8E+ 03 <100 3.6E+ 04 2.0E +02 <100 1.2E+ 04 06.5+E+ 04 6.0E+ 02 Preservation efficiency Enterococcus occus Faecalis Good Good Good Good Good Passable Bad Comfortable Bad Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Aspergillo Niger Good Passable Good easy Purple easy Pass blue Good e (Sensory Appraisals)
[0333] 4 professional panelists evaluated the sensory aspects of “capacity spreading” and “stickiness” of each of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Examples 5 and 6 by applying 0.1 ml of each of the samples on their skin. Samples were scored using the following criteria and the scores were then averaged.
[0334] 3: Good
[0335] 2: Bad
[0336] 1: Very bad
[0337] The results are summarized in Table 4 below.
[0338] [Table 4] Table 4 Comp. 2 Ex Comp. 5 Ex Comp. 6 Spreadability 3 2 1 Stickiness 3 2 1.5
[0339] As can be seen from the evaluation results of Table 3, the compositions according to the examples exerted an improved preservative property although they included a large amount of the (a) polar oils. On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Examples 1 to 4, which did not include the specific combination of the (c) preservative and the (d) compound selected from Vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof, did not show sufficient preservative effectiveness in practice.
[0340] Furthermore, as can be seen from the evaluation results in Table 4, the compositions according to Example 2 exhibited higher average scores of sensory appreciations compared to the compositions according to Comparative Examples 5 and 6, which do not include a sufficient amount of the (a) polar oils. Thus, the composition according to the present invention exhibited improved texture and application property.
[0341] Thus, it can be concluded that the composition according to the present invention is very suitable as a cosmetic composition, in particular as a sun care cosmetic composition, for keratinous substances, such as skin, because it has sufficient storage property without skin irritation problem caused by a large amount of preservatives, while maintaining improved texture and application property.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition comprising: (a) at least one polar oil in an amount greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (b) at least one inorganic UV filter, (c) at least two preservatives, and (d) at least one compound chosen from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (a) polar oil comprises one or two or more of ester oils, fatty alcohols, and fatty acids, wherein the ester oil is preferably selected from ester oils having at least one, preferably one, C6 to C22 hydrocarbon chain fraction, more preferably one C8 to C16 hydrocarbon chain fraction, the fatty alcohol is preferably selected from C6-C30 fatty alcohols, preferably C10-C24 fatty alcohols, and more preferably C12-C20 fatty alcohols, and the fatty acid is preferably selected from C6-C28 fatty acids, preferably C10-C22 fatty acids, and even more preferably C10-C8 fatty acids.
3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the (c) preservatives are selected from lower alcohols, methylchloroisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, hydantoin derivatives, such as 1,3-dibromo-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (DMDMH), a parahydroxybenzoate ester, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid and a salt thereof, such as sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone, glycerol caprylate, polyols having antibacterial properties, and in particular comprises one or more preservative compound(s) selected from lower alcohols, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, hydroxyacetophenone, polyols having antibacterial properties, and combinations of these.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the (c) preservatives are chosen from at least one polyol having antibacterial properties, preferably chosen from caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexane diol, pentylene glycol, octanoate sorbitan, and combinations thereof; phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, hydroxyacetophenone, one or more lower alcohol(s), in particular ethanol, and combinations thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the amount of the (c) preservative(s) ranges from 0.1% to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 3 to 5, in which the amount of the polyol(s) having antibacterial properties ranges from 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 3 to 6, in which the amount of the lower alcohol(s) ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein (d) vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof are selected from those represented by the following formula: ■W* wherein R indicates -CONH2, -COOH, or CH2OH, -CO-NH-CH2 -COOH or -CO-NH-OH, and nicotinic acid esters, amides derived from niacinamide, and esters of nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acids.
9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of (d) vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof ranges from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. A cosmetic process for a keratin substrate, such as skin, comprising applying to the keratin substrate the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
A cosmetic or dermatological composition with low stickiness, containing a lipophilic active ingredient
WO2011061864A1
Oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic
WO2017056506A1
Cosmetic sunscreen composition, use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, and processes for manufacturing a cosmetic sunscreen composition
WO2022000053A1