COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION AND USE OF COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION

Abstract

COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION AND USE OF THE COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) at least one ester, (b) at least one alcohol ester, (c) at least one organic UV filter, (d) at least one aqueous-phase organic filter, and (e) at least one anionic copolymer. The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION AND USE OF THE COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION. SCOPE OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) at least one ester, (b) at least one alcohol ester, (c) at least one organic UV filter, (d) at least one aqueous-phase organic filter, and (e) at least one anionic copolymer. The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Photoprotection of keratinous materials, including skin and hair, is considered of great importance to ensure protection against sun damage, sunburn, photoaging, and to reduce the risk of developing skin cancer caused by exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation. There are typically two types of UVA / UVB sunscreen compositions used to achieve photoprotection: inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.

[0003] Consumers are concerned about the negative effects of sun exposure, particularly the harmful effects of ultraviolet (“UV”) light exposure. Prolonged exposure to sunlight causes skin damage, such as sunburn. When skin is exposed to UV light with a wavelength of approximately 290 nm to approximately 400 nm, long-term damage can lead to serious conditions such as skin cancer. UV light also contributes to aging by causing the formation of free radicals in the skin. Free radicals include, for example, singlet oxygen, hydroxyl radicals, superoxide anions, nitric oxide, and hydrogen radicals. Free radicals attack DNA, membrane lipids, and proteins, generating carbon radicals.These, in turn, react with oxygen to produce a peroxyl radical, which can attack adjacent fatty acids to generate new carbon radicals. This cascade leads to a chain reaction producing lipid peroxidation products. Damage to the cell membrane results in a loss of cell permeability, an increase in intercellular ion concentration, and a decreased ability to excrete or detoxify waste. The end result is a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles. This process is commonly called photoaging.

[0004] In this sense, in a skin care ritual, consumers apply cosmetic sunscreen compositions to protect the skin and the sensation of the product on the skin is very important.

[0005] Consumers are increasingly looking for cosmetic sunscreen products that fit into their photoprotection routine to protect skin from sun damage.

[0006] In addition, consumers are also looking for sunscreen cosmetic products that include green technology (green ingredients) and do not have a negative impact on the environment.

[0007] Regarding the degree of UV protection of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, this is directly related to the quantity and type of UV filters it contains. The higher the quantity of UV filters, the higher the degree of UV protection (UVA / UVB). It is difficult to obtain a stable cosmetic sunscreen composition with high quantities of fillers and UV filters.

[0008] Fillers, such as silica and silica silylate, among others, are known in the cosmetics industry to provide anti-oily and anti-acne effects in sunscreen compositions. However, the maximum concentration of fillers in sunscreen compositions is limited because their high hydrophobic properties make the composition unstable when high concentrations are applied.

[0009] There is a need for stable cosmetic sunscreen compositions with higher concentrations of fillers, in order to enhance their anti-oily and anti-acne effects, and UV filters. The challenge of incorporating high concentrations of fillers and UV filters into cosmetic sunscreen compositions is not only limited by their hydrophobic nature, but also by the challenge of formulating stable compositions while preserving satisfactory product properties, such as spreadability, a high sun protection factor, and a dry feel on the skin after application.

[0010] In particular, cosmetic sunscreen compositions must offer good protection against the sun, one measure of which is the value of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), while having a satisfactory sensory perception, i.e. a non-greasy sensation upon application.

[0011] In this sense, there is a need to develop new cosmetic sunscreen compositions comprising green ingredients that do not have a negative impact on the environment, having high stability, good sensory properties (such as dry touch and matte effect), good ingredient solubility, good absorption and spreading ability, water resistance and delivering SPF and IR-A protection.

[0012] In particular, it is also a challenge to replace conventional UV filters with green UV filters while maintaining the sensory characteristics. When carrying out such a replacement, it is common to lose certain sensory properties of the cosmetic sunscreen composition, such as dry touch, texture, stability, spreadability, and absorption.

[0013] Thus, the inventors of the present invention have overcome the drawbacks of the prior art and have surprisingly obtained a cosmetic sunscreen composition exhibiting the desired properties mentioned above comprising: (a) at least one alcohol ester, (b) at least one organic UV filter, (c) at least one aqueous-phase organic filter; and (d) at least one anionic copolymer. Summary of the invention

[0014] The present invention relates to a cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) at least one ester, (b) at least one alcohol ester, (c) at least one organic UV filter, (d) at least one aqueous-phase organic filter, and (e) at least one anionic copolymer. The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.

[0015] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description of desirable embodiments which illustrate, by way of example, the principles of the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0016] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises: a. at least one ester selected from diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, coco caprylate / coco caprylate / caprate, C15-19 alkane and mixtures thereof; b. at least one alcohol ester selected from C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, coco-caprylate / caprate, ethylhexyl palmitate, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate and mixtures thereof; c. at least one organic UV filter selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenyl methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof; d. at least one aqueous-phase organic filter selected from phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene diamphrul sulfonic acid, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol and mixtures thereof; and e. at least one anionic copolymer selected from C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer and mixtures thereof.

[0017] In a preferred embodiment, at least one ester is present in the range of about 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 1.25% to about 5.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 1.5% to about 2.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] In a preferred embodiment, at least one alcohol ester is present in the range of about 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 1.25% to about 5.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 1.5% to about 2.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] In a preferred embodiment, at least one organic UV filter is present in the range of about 5.0% to about 20.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 0.1% to about 3.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 0.2% to about 2.4%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] In one embodiment, at least one aqueous-phase organic filter is present in the range of about 0.01% to about 8.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of about 0.0% to about 4.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 0.0% to about 3.0%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] In a preferred embodiment, at least one anionic copolymer is present in the range of about 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 0.5% to about 3.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 0.5% to about 2.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15, 20, 25, 30, 35 and preferably 40.

[0023] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from additional sunscreens, perfume / fragrance, preservatives, solvents, active compounds, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments, a buffer, a masking agent, and mixtures thereof.

[0024] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion and can be used as a daily sunscreen product.

[0025] In another embodiment, the present invention relates to the use of a product as a daily sunscreen product.

[0026] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is free of inorganic filters.

[0027] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention does not include organic filters selected from octocrylene, homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate.

[0028] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may include one or more pigments.

[0029] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention does not include physical filters and the preservative phenoxyethanol. TERMS

[0030] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may include, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components or limitations described herein.

[0031] The terms "a", "an", "the" and "the" are understood to encompass both the plural and the singular.

[0032] All ranges and values ​​disclosed here are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described here that falls within a range described here can serve as a minimum or maximum value to deduce a subrange, etc.

[0033] As used herein, the expression "at least" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0034] Except in the functional examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions are understood to be modified in all cases by the term "approximately", meaning to within + / - 5% of the number indicated.

[0035] As used herein, all provided ranges are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of intermediate subranges. Thus, a range from 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. All ranges and values ​​disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value for deducing a subrange, etc. SOLVENTS

[0036] In addition to the essential alcohol esters used in the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention, suitable solvents include, but are not limited to, water, alcohols, glycols and polyols such as glycerin, water, the caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and mixtures thereof. ORGANIC UV FILTERS

[0037] In addition to the essential organic UV filters of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention may include one or more additional organic UV filters. Aqueous organic filter

[0038] The composition, according to the present invention, comprises at least one aqueous phase organic filter selected from phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene diamphr sulfonic acid and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol. Additional organic UV filters

[0039] The composition according to the present invention may optionally include at least one additional UV filter selected from among the organic UV filters. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they may be identical or different.

[0040] The organic UV filter used for the present invention can be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The organic UV filter can be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic.

[0041] The organic UV filter can be solid or liquid. The terms "solid" and "liquid" mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25 °C under 1 atm.

[0042] The organic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; α-alkylstyrene derivative dimers; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds; guaiazulene and its derivatives; rutin and its derivatives; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and its derivatives; quinic acid and its derivatives; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides having an aromatic amino acid residue; and mixtures thereof.

[0043] Examples of organic UV filter(s) include those listed below under their INCI names and their mixtures. Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate, marketed under the brand name "Neo Heliopan MA" by Haarmann and Reimer. Dibenzoylmethane compounds: isopropyl dibenzoylmethane. Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the brand name "Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate. marketed under the brand “Neo Heliopan E 1000” by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxycinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate. Salicylic compounds: glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropylene glycol salicylate, marketed under the brand name "Dipsal" by Scher; and TEA salicylate, marketed under the brand name "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer. Camphor compounds, in particular benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the brand name "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the brand name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the brand name "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured under the brand name "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid manufactured under the brand name "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the brand name "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex. Benzophenone Compounds: Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the brand name "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (tetrahydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the brand name "Uvinul D50" by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, marketed under the brand name "Uvinul M40" by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxybenzophenonesulfonic acid), marketed under the brand name "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (sodium hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxydimethoxybenzophenone), marketed under the brand name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone-8, marketed under the brand name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (disodium dihydroxydimethoxybenzophenonedisulfonate), marketed under the brand name "Uvinul DS-49" by BASF; and benzophenone-12, and 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (UVINUL A+ by BASF).[3,[3-Diphenylacrylate] compounds: Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the brand name "Uvinul N35" by BASF. Triazine compounds: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the brand name "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine. Benzotriazole compounds, in particular phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear, and those described in USP 5240975. Benzalmalonate compounds: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, marketed under the brand name "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann-LaRoche. Benzimidazole compounds, in particular phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, marketed in particular under the brand name "Eusolex 232" by Merck, and . Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the brand name "Neo Heliopan AP" by Haarmann and Reimer. Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate. Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: Derivatives as described in EP-669 323 and US patent no. 2,463,264. Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed in particular under the brand name "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA and PEG-25 PABA, marketed under the brand name "Uvinul P25" by BASF.Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methylphenol] marketed as a solid under the brand name "Mixxim BB / 200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] marketed as a micronized aqueous dispersion under the brand name "Tinosorb M" by BASF, or under the brand name "Mixxim BB / 100" by Fairmount Chemical, and derivatives as described in US patents Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26184 and EP-893,119, and Drometrizole trisiloxane, marketed under the brand name "Silatrizole " by Rhodia Chimie or - "Mexoryl XL" by L'Oréal. Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, marketed under the brand name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V. Screening polymers and silicone screens: the silicones described in WO 93 / 04665.α-Alkylstyrene-derived dimers: The dimers described in DE-19855649. 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds: α,β-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

[0044] Dans certains modes de réalisation, il est souhaitable que le(s) filtre(s) UV organique(s) soi(en)t choisi(s) dans le groupe consistant en : ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxyb enzoyl)benzoate, 1 ,r-( 1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[ 1 - [2- [4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate)-6- [(3-{ 1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l- [(trimethylsilyloxy]-disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15,dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalma lonate, l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis[5-l, (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, camphor benzylkonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. ANIONIC COPOLYMER

[0045] In addition to the essential anionic copolymers of the present invention, suitable additional anionic copolymers may be used.

[0046] Anionic copolymers can be polymers with anionic groups distributed along the polymer backbone. The anionic groups, which can include carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, nitrate, or other negatively charged or ionizable groups, can be arranged on pendant groups of the backbone or can be incorporated into the backbone itself.

[0047] In a preferred embodiment, the anionic copolymers are selected from the C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer.

[0048] Anionic copolymers may include at least one hydrophilic motif of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic motif exclusively of an (Ci0-C30) alkyl ester of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type.

[0049] In some non-limiting examples of embodiments, the copolymers are chosen from among the copolymers resulting from the polymerization of: 1. at least one monomer of formula (I):

[0050] wherein Ri is selected from H or CH3 or C2H5, providing monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid, and 1. at least one (Ci0-C30) alkyl ester monomer of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponding to the monomer of formula (II):

[0051] Non-limiting examples of (Ci0-C30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are, for example, selected from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] Furthermore, crosslinked polymers can be selected according to other embodiments. For example, these polymers can be selected from polymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising: 1. Acrylic acid, 2. an ester of formula (II) described above, in which R2 is chosen from H or CH3, R3 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and 3. a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, ethylene glycol (poly)dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.Useful anionic copolymers here include, for example: polyacrylic acid; polymethacrylic acid; carboxyvinyl polymer; acrylate copolymers such as C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylic acid / vinyl ester / nonyl isodecanoate crosslinked acrylate polymer, acrylates / palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylate / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, and acrylate / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer; sulfonate polymers such as polysulfonic acid, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, methacrylic acid and acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid copolymers, and acrylic acid and acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid copolymers; carboxymethylcellulose; carboxy guar gum; copolymers of ethylene and maleic acid; and silicone acrylate polymer.In some cases, anionic copolymers include, for example, carbomer and CARBOPOL 980; sodium carboxymethylcellulose such as the CMC range; and acrylate copolymer such as Capigel; . the acrylates copolymer such as CARBOPOL Aqua SF-1 as an aqueous dispersion, and the acrylates-4 crosslinked polymer such as CARBOPOL Aqua SF-2 as an aqueous dispersion.

[0053] In one embodiment, the anionic copolymer of the invention is a carbomer such as CARBOPOL 980. An example of nonionic polymers could be as follows: i. hydroxyethylcellulose, for example the product NATROSOL 250 HHR PC or NATROSOL 250 HHR CS; ii. Cellulose modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain; examples that may be cited include:

[0054] - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least a fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably at C8-C22, for example the product NATROSOL Plus Grade 330 CS (alkyls at Ci6), or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100; methyl hydroxyethylcellulose; methyl ethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, known as the product STRUCTURE CEL 8000 M; or hydroxypropyl cellulose, known as the product KLUCEL MF PHARM HYDROXYPROPYLCELLULOSOSE;

[0055] - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by alkylphenyl ether groups polyalkylene glycol, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol ether (15); or i. Hydroxypropyl guars such as hydroxypropyl guar and hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain), and the products RE210-18 (Ci4 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain). ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

[0056] In addition to the essential components described above, the composition of the invention may further include any conventional cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen in particular from perfume / fragrance, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, active ingredients, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, and mixtures thereof.

[0057] A person skilled in the art shall ensure that the optional additional ingredients and / or their quantity are selected so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, compromised by the envisaged addition.

[0058] The additional ingredients may represent from 0.1% to 50%, such as from 0.1% to 30% or such as from 0.1% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention. EXAMPLES

[0059] By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples. Example A

[0060] The appropriate compositions according to the present invention are such as in Inventive Examples 1 to 15, as follows:

[0061] [Table 1]

[0062] Table 1 - Compositions according to the present invention: Function Ingredient Inventive Composition Ex. 1 (% by weight) Fatty Compounds Isopropyl Myristate 8.0 - 12.0 Isononyl Isononanoate Diisopropyl Sebacate Stearyl Alcohol Solvent Butylene Glycol 4.0 - 7.0 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Glycerin Caprylyl Glycol Pentylene Glycol Water QS Sunscreen Ethylhexyl Triazone 9.0-13.0 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl Methane Phenyl Benzimidazole Sufonic Acid Drometrizole Trisiloxane Surfactant Stearic Acid 2.0-5.0 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Poloxamer 338 Polymer Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 1.0-3.5 C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate / Acrylate Crosslinked Polymer Ammonium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate / VP Copolymer Other Phenoxyethanol 0.0 - 5.0 Chlorphenesin fragrance Niacinamide Tocopherol salicylic acid Maltodextrin (and) Bixa orellana seed extract Thermal water Active compound Capryloyl salicylic acid 0.0 - 5.0 Triethanolamine Hydroxyacetophenone Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate Sarcosine Vitreoscilla ferment Citric acid Mannose Zinc pca Fillers Silica 0.1-5.0 Silica silylate Example B Sensory test

[0063] A sensory test was carried out with six volunteers (Caucasians and Africans) with dry and oily skin to evaluate the differences in the sensory characteristics of the composition according to the present invention (Example 2) and the comparative composition comprising octocrylene (Example 7 of the prior art). Inventive Example 2

[0064] [Tables2] Function Ingredient % Fatty compounds Isopropyl myristate 10.8 Isononanoate Diisopropyl sebacate Stearyl alcohol Solvent C12-15 alkyl benzoate 63.54 Glycerin Caprylyl glycol Pentylene glycol Water Sunscreen Ethylhexyl triazone 12,3 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl triazone Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid Surfactant Stearic acid 4.10 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate Potassium cetyl phosphate Poloxamer 338 Polymer Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate 2.75 Crosslinked acrylates / alkyl acrylate C10-3-O Polymer Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer Other Chlorphenesin 0.69 Tocopherol Thermal water Active compound Triethanolamine 2.12 Hydroxyacetophenone Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate Citric acid Fillers Silica 3.7 Silica silylate Example 7 of prior art

[0065] [Tables3] Function Ingredient % Fatty compounds Isopropyl myristate 7.4 Diisopropyl sebacate Stearyl alcohol Solvent Glycerin 55.79 Caprylyl glycol Pentylene glycol Water Sunscreen Ethylhexyl triazone 17.8 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl triazone Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid Titanium dioxide Terephthalylidene diamphrul sulfonic acid Octocrylene Homosalate Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate Surfactant Stearic acid 4.6 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate Potassium cetyl phosphate Poloxamer 338 Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate Polymer Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate 2.75 Crosslinked acrylate / alkyl acrylate C10-30 polymer Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer Others Phenoxyethanol 5.0 Tocopherol Thermal water Caprylyl methicone Active compound Disodium EDTA 1.56 Triethanolamine Fillers Silica 5.1 Silica silylate

[0066] The attributes evaluated were the spreading ability, absorption, dry touch, finish on the skin, white effect.

[0067] The phototype of the volunteers was a dark phototype for the analysis of the white effect.

[0068] The skin types were all types (dry, combination and oily).

[0069] The comparison protocol performed was as follows:

[0070] 1- Cleanse the face with cotton and micellar water;

[0071] 2- Application of thermal water and drying with a dry handkerchief;

[0072] 3- Application of 0.30 g of each formula to half of the face;

[0073] 4- Duration 1 hour.

[0074] It was concluded that the composition according to the present invention exhibits faster absorption, a waxy texture, and exclusion; however, formula 940645 4 is more slippery, with more marks and a white film, and a dry feel. It is important to mention that these are slight differences between the formulas. Example C Sensory test

[0075] A sensory test was carried out with six volunteers (Caucasians and Africans) with oily skin to evaluate the differences in the sensory characteristics of the composition according to the present invention (inventive example 3) and the comparative composition comprising octocrylene (Example 8 of the prior art). Inventive example 3

[0076] [Tables4] Function Ingredient % Ingredients: Isopropyl Myristate 10.80, Isononyl Isononanoate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Stearyl Alcohol, Solvent, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 58.48, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Water, Sunscreen, Ethylhexyl Triazone 12.30, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol, Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Phenyl Benzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Surfactant, Stearic Acid 4.10, Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Poloxamer 338, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate Polymer 2.75, Crosslinked Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Copolymer Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Other Chlorphenesin 4,64 Niacinamide Tocopherol Maltodextrin (and) Bixa orellana seed extract Thermal water Active compound Triethanolamine 3,03 Hydroxyacetophenone Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate Vitreoscilla ferment Citric acid, Mannose, Zinc PCA, Fillers, Silica 3,9, Silylate Example 8 of prior art

[0077] [Tables5] Function Ingredient % Compounds gr Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 8.0 Cetyl alcohol Diisopropyl sebacate Solvent Alcohol denat. 60.83 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Caprylyl Glycol Water Sunscreen Ethylhexyl triazone 13.0 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl triazine Terephthalylidene diamphrulfonic acid Octocrylene Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate Drometrizole trisiloxane Surfactant Behenyl alcohol (and) glyceryl stearate (and) ethylene dicocamide peg-15 disodium disulfate (and) glyceryl stearate citrate 3.0 Polymer Xanthan Gum 4.95 Zea Mays (Corn) Starch Poly(C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate) Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl taurate Other Phenoxyethanol 3.1 Fragrance Thermal water Active compound Triethanolamine 0.61 Disodium EDTA Sodium hyaluronate Zinc gluconate Fillers Silica (and) titanium dioxide 6.51 Perlite Silylate

[0078] The attributes evaluated were spreadability, absorption, dry touch, finish on the skin, white effect.

[0079] The phototype of the volunteers was a dark phototype for the analysis of the white effect.

[0080] The comparison protocol performed was as follows:

[0081] 1- Cleanse the face with cotton and micellar water;

[0082] 2- Application of thermal water and drying with a dry handkerchief;

[0083] 3- Application of 0.30 g of each formula to half of the face;

[0084] 4- Duration 1 hour.

[0085] It was concluded that the composition according to the present invention has a more slippery, easy-to-apply, shiny and waxy texture and a more homogeneous and uniform film and that the current version exhibited faster absorption, white marks and a film, accumulated in expression lines and pores, a powdery appearance and pilling were observed in all volunteers during application. Example D Sensory test

[0086] A sensory test was carried out with six volunteers (Phototype IV) with combination to oily skin to evaluate the differences in sensory characteristics of the composition according to the present invention (inventive example 4) and the comparative composition comprising octocrylene (Example 9 of the prior art). Inventive example 4

[0087] [Tableauxô] Function Ingredient % Compounds (g) Isopropyl Myristate 10,8 Isononanoate Diisopropyl sebacate Stearyl alcohol Solvent C12-15 alkyl benzoate 62.44 Glycerin Caprylyl glycol Pentylene glycol Water Sunscreen Ethylhexyl triazone 12,3 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl triazine Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane Phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid Surfactant Stearic acid 4.10 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate Potassium cetyl phosphate Poloxamer 338 Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate polymer 2.75 C10-30 alkyl acrylate / crosslinked polymer Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer Other Tocopherol 0.39 Thermal water Active compound: Triethanolamine 2,12-Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylenediamine trisodium disuccinate, Citric acid, Fillers: Silica 5,1-Silylate Example 9 of prior art

[0088] [Tables?] Function Ingredient % Compounds (g) Isopropyl Myristate 7.4 Diisopropyl Sebacate Stearyl Alcohol Solvent Glycerin 55.79 Caprylyl Glycol Pentylene Glycol Water Sunscreen Ethylhexyl Triazone 17.8 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid Titanium Dioxide Terephthalylidene Dimphre Sulfonic Acid Octocrylene Homosalate Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate Surfactant Stearic Acid 4.6 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Poloxamer 338 Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate polymer 2.75 C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer Other Phenoxyethanol 5.0 Tocopherol Thermal water Caprylyl methicone Active compound Disodium EDTA 1.56 Triethanolamine Fillers Silica 5.1

[0089] The attributes evaluated were spreadability, absorption, dry touch, finish on the skin, white effect.

[0090] The phototype of the volunteers was a dark phototype for the analysis of the white effect.

[0091] The comparison protocol performed was as follows:

[0092] 1- Cleanse the face with cotton and micellar water;

[0093] 2- Application of thermal water and drying with a dry handkerchief;

[0094] 3- Application of 0.30 g of each formula to half of the face;

[0095] 4- Duration 1 hour.

[0096] It was concluded that the composition according to the present invention exhibited similar sensory absorption, but a little faster in the present invention, the formulas exhibited slight differences in texture, application and hold, that formula 940645 4 was thicker, smoother and shinier than the invention. Example E FPS Test

[0097] The objective of this test was to determine the spectral photostability (single dose of UV), the in vitro UVA protection factor (SP-UVA) and the critical wavelength of the sample: 941502 1 SPF 30.

[0098] On four textured PMMA plates, the sample or samples to be tested were applied, in an amount of approximately 1.3 mg / cm2, by spreading them manually with the tip of a pre-saturated finger, without using it, until a visually uniform film was obtained.

[0099] The weighing was carried out directly on the plate positioned on a balance, by depositing the product in small quantities spread over the entire surface of the plate, for a total application area of ​​25 cm2.

[0100] The spreading was carried out in two stages: first, the product was spread rapidly with circular movements without pressure until the entire plate was filled with product; then, the film was homogenized, using straight movements and moderate pressure, until a uniform film was formed.

[0101] The sample plate was left to rest for at least 30 minutes protected from light, inside a temperature-controlled drying chamber (between 27.0 °C and 29.1 °C), to dry the product and facilitate the formation of a homogeneous film.

[0102] It was concluded that:

[0103] • The in vitro UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of the test product is of 10.2.

[0104] • The FP-UVA of the test product is greater than 1 / 3 of the SPF

[0105] • The FPS of the product showed a spectral photostability level of 79.1%, it can therefore be considered moderately photostable with respect to FPS.

[0106] • The FP-UVA of the product showed a spectral photostability level of 79.7%, it can therefore be considered moderately photostable compared to FP-UVA.

[0107] • The critical wavelength is 377 nm. Example F Relationship between loads and FPS

[0108] The objective of this test was to determine the solar protection factor (SPF) following the ISO 24444 methodology and to understand whether the loads can have an impact on the SPF results. The test continues with two inventive examples (examples 5 and 6) where the only difference lies in the speed of the loads. Inventive example 5

[0109] [Tables8] Function Ingredient % Compounds (g) Isopropyl Myristate 10.8 Isononanoate Diisopropyl Sebacate Stearyl Alcohol Solvent Butylene Glycol 64.95 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Water, Sunscreen, Ethylhexyl triazone 12,3, Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol, Methoxyphenyl triazine, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, Surfactant, Stearic acid 4.10, Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Poloxamer 338, Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate polymer 2.75, C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, Other, Tocopherol 0.37, Thermal water, Active compound, Triethanolamine 2.12, Hydroxyacetophenone, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Citric acid, Fillers, Silica 2,6 Silica silylate Inventive example 6

[0110] [Tables9] Function Ingredient % Compounds (g) Isopropyl Myristate 10.8 Isononyl Isononanoate Diisopropyl Sebacate Stearyl Alcohol Solvent Butylene Glycol 62.05 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Glycerin Caprylyl Glycol Water Sunscreen Ethylhexyl Triazone 12.3 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid Surfactant Stearic Acid 4.10 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Poloxamer 338 Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate Polymer 2.75 C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosslinked Polymer Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer Other Tocopherol 0.37 Thermal water Active compound Triethanolamine 2.12 Hydroxyacetophenone Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate Citric acid Fillers Silica 5.5 [YES] • For inventive example 5, with the lowest concentration of fillers, the mean SPF was 37.0 with the confidence interval (c) of 5.5. The result is an SPF of 31.5.

[0112] • For inventive example 6, with the highest concentration of charges, the FPS The mean was 32.4 with a confidence interval (c) of 7.1. The result is an FPS of 25.3.

[0113] It has been concluded that in the composition according to the present inventions the change of charges can bring about different results in the FPS, which can be explained by the change in the formation of the film. Example G

[0114] Manufacturing process for the cosmetic composition of sunscreen

[0115] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention can be prepared by any conventional process for manufacturing a composition in emulsion form.

[0116] In particular, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention can be prepared by a process comprising the following steps:

[0117] (A): the oily phase comprising the oily raw materials, including (a) the (c) Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax and a UV filter system, is mixed and heated to 75°C;

[0118] (B): the aqueous phase comprising the aqueous raw materials is mixed until complete homogenization;

[0119] (C): the aqueous phase of step (B) is added to the oily phase of step (A), followed by mixing the mixture;

[0120] (D): the other ingredients are added gradually to the mixture obtained in step (C) and mixed until homogeneous, at a temperature below 30 °C; and

[0121] (E): charges are added.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising: (a) at least one ester selected from diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, coco caprylate / coco caprylate / caprate, C15-19 alkane and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one alcohol ester selected from C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, coco-caprylate / caprate, ethylhexyl palmitate, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate and mixtures thereof; (c) at least one organic UV filter selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof;(d) at least one aqueous-phase organic filter selected from phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene diamphr sulfonic acid, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol and mixtures thereof; and (e) at least one anionic copolymer selected from crosslinked acrylates / alkyl acrylate C10-30, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one ester is present in the range of 0.1% to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one alcohol ester is present in the range of 0.1% to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one organic UV filter is present in the range of 5.0% to 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one aqueous-phase organic filter is present in the range of 0.01% to 8.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one anionic copolymer is present in the range of 0.1% to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to claim 1, wherein it is free of inorganic filters.

8. Composition according to claim 1, wherein it is free from organic filters selected from octocrylene, homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate.

9. Cosmetic composition, according to claim 1, wherein it further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from additional UV filters, perfume / fragrance, preservatives, solvents, actives, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments, and combinations thereof.

10. Cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising: (a) 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one ester selected from diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, coco caprylate / coco caprylate / caprate, C15-19 alkane and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one alcohol ester selected from C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, coco-caprylate / caprate, ethylhexyl palmitate, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) 5.0% to 20.0% by weight of at least one organic UV filter selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition;(c) 0.01% to 8.0% by weight of at least one aqueous-phase organic filter selected from phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene diamphr sulfonic acid and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (d) 0.1% to 10% of at least one anionic copolymer selected from C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.