COSMETIC USE OF AN EXTRACT FROM A PLANT OF THE GENUS ULEX FOR THE PROTECTION OF HAIR AGAINST OXIDATIVE DAMAGE INDUCED BY VARIOUS STRESS.

Abstract

COSMETIC USE OF AN EXTRACT FROM A PLANT OF THE GENUS ULEX FOR PROTECTING HAIR AGAINST OXIDATIVE DAMAGE INDUCED BY VARIOUS STRESS. The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a fat-soluble extract from a plant of the genus Ulex for protecting hair against damage induced by exposure to oxidative stress, or for repairing it after such exposure. In particular, the invention relates to the use of such an extract for protecting hair during heat treatment, chemical coloring, perming, exposure to UV radiation, air pollutants, salt, or chlorine.

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC USE OF AN EXTRACT FROM A PLANT OF THE GENUS ULEX FOR THE PROTECTION OF HAIR AGAINST OXIDATIVE DAMAGE INDUCED BY VARIOUS STRESS. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a new cosmetic active ingredient for hair care to protect hair against oxidative damage induced by multiple stresses including common cosmetic procedures such as frequent washing, chemical treatments such as colorings based on oxidation reactions, heat treatments such as the use of straighteners, curling irons, and hair dryers or environmental stresses including exposure to UV, pollutants, salt or chlorine. DESCRIPTION OF PREVIOUS ART Hair reminders

[0002] Hair plays a significant role in the expression of individual and cultural identity, strongly influencing self-esteem and social perception.

[0003] Beyond their biological function of protection against external elements, hair contributes to personal aesthetics, often reflecting general health, lifestyle, and personal choices in fashion and personal care.

[0004] The hair shaft, or hair fiber, is a complex structure mainly composed of keratins, that is to say sulfur-rich proteins which give hair strength and elasticity.

[0005] The hair shaft is organized into three main concentric layers: the cuticle, the cortex, and in some cases, the medulla located in its center.

[0006] The cuticle, the outermost layer of the shaft, is formed of dead, comb-like, flat, and overlapping cells that protect the cortex, the largest part of the hair where keratins organized into fibrils are predominantly found. This architecture is essential for the strength and integrity of the hair shaft.

[0007] However, the hair fiber is subjected to numerous external stresses that can compromise its integrity. Among the most frequent aggressions are repeated washing, mechanical stresses, chemical treatments including oxidative colorings, heat treatments, such as the use of hair dryers, straighteners or curling irons, environmental factors, including UV rays, air pollutants, salt, chlorine.

[0008] These procedures cause significant damage to the keratins, compromising the integrity of the hair structure. While healthy hair is characterized by compact and smooth cuticles, their alteration leads to their separation, increasing the porosity of the hair, making the hair fiber more permeable and vulnerable to humidity and other forms of environmental stress.

[0009] These changes at the microscopic level result in visual impacts. The hair becomes dry, prone to frizz, fragile, and brittle, with split ends and increased difficulty in styling.

[0010] In addition, the degradation of the hair surface leads to a decrease in light reflection, which manifests itself as dull hair characterized by a lack of shine.

[0011] At the molecular level, the loss of hair integrity is mainly due to the oxidation of the proteins that constitute it, in particular keratins.

[0012] This oxidation causes chemical changes within the protein structure of the hair, a phenomenon also known as carbonylation.

[0013] Carbonylation corresponds to the attachment of carbonyl derivatives in proteins, resulting in an alteration of their physico-chemical properties which in turn causes changes in their structures, their interactions and consequently their functions.

[0014] This modification of hair proteins reduces their ability to maintain the structural integrity and resilience of hair.

[0015] Chemical treatments such as oxidation staining, as well as exposure to other stresses including high heat sources, UV, pollutants, are key factors that promote this type of carbonylation reaction.

[0016] For example, oxidative hair coloring, considered one of the most aggressive stressors for hair, involves a process where, to allow the dyes to penetrate deep into the cortex of the hair shaft, a forced opening of the cuticles is necessary. This mechanism, while essential for the effectiveness of the coloring, exposes the hair to increased vulnerability, accompanied by a significant increase in the carbonylation of hair shaft proteins.

[0017] Consequently, the carbonylation of hair fiber proteins is an indicator of severe oxidative damage, highlighting the importance of protecting hair against the stresses it undergoes to preserve its health and aesthetics.

[0018] The use of antioxidants in hair care formulations represents a key strategy to counteract this process, offering protection against carbonylation and helping to maintain the integrity of the hair protein structure.

[0019] Together, these effects impair not only hair health, but also the aesthetics of the hair, highlighting the importance of effective protective solutions in the hair care formulations designed to protect hair from oxidative damage caused by the various stresses to which it is constantly subjected: mechanical, chemical, thermal, environmental stresses. OBJECTS OF THE INVENTION

[0020] The multiple treatments and environmental stresses to which hair is subjected generate oxidative damage with significant consequences on its quality and beauty.

[0021] Thus, the search for natural and environmentally friendly preventive and / or restorative solutions to limit this damage appears essential for preserving the aesthetics of hair. These solutions must also meet the demands of consumers who seek products that comply with contemporary ecological challenges, that is to say, products of natural origin.

[0022] The present invention aims to meet these needs by proposing a new active ingredient to protect hair against damage from various sources of stress, such as oxidative stress.

[0023] In particular, the present invention aims to provide a new active ingredient to limit the oxidation or carbonylation of the proteins of the hair shaft, to limit the excessive porosity of the hair and its roughness due to the excessive detachment of the cuticles which is the origin of its fragility, its rough appearance, its dull appearance and frizz.

[0024] In addition, this invention also aims to provide protection against heat-induced damage, while preserving the biomechanical properties of the hair shaft, thus maintaining the elasticity and resistance of the hair to heat treatments such as drying and straightening.

[0025] In particular, the invention aims to provide such an active ingredient which has the aforementioned advantages while not preventing coloring or perming from taking place.

[0026] It is with this in mind that the applicant company carried out research and demonstrated that an extract obtained from a plant of the genus Ulex, in particular Ulex Europaeus, made it possible to meet the objectives of the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0027] The present invention is based on the unexpected discovery that a liposoluble extract of fabaceae of the genus Ulex, in particular Ulex europaeus, has remarkable preventive and protective properties for the hair shaft against the multiple factors to which hair is subjected: repeated washing, chemical or thermal treatments, environmental factors including exposure to UV radiation, atmospheric pollutants, salt or chlorine.

[0028] This extract acts effectively by reducing excessive porosity, a cause of increased hair permeability leading to problems such as frizz.

[0029] In addition, it reduces the roughness of the hair shaft, characterized by the lifting of the cuticles, thus preventing the tendency for the hair to have a rough, dull appearance and to become brittle.

[0030] It also limits the damage induced by repeated heat treatments which cause deterioration of the biomechanical properties of the hair and increased fragility.

[0031] This effectiveness stems from its ability to modulate one of the fundamental mechanisms responsible for these deteriorations, namely oxidative damage to keratins, major constituent proteins of the hair shaft.

[0032] Thus, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a liposoluble extract from the genus Ulex of the family Fabaceae for the protection of hair against damage induced by exposure to stress, in particular oxidative stress, or its repair after such exposure.

[0033] In particular, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract from the genus Ulex of the Fabaceae family for the protection of hair during heat treatment, chemical coloring, perming, exposure to UV, atmospheric pollutants, salt or chlorine.

[0034] Advantageously, the protection of hair against damage induced by exposure to stress, in particular oxidative or thermal stress, includes the prevention of alteration of the biomechanical properties of the hair shaft, the limitation of oxidation or carbonylation of the proteins of the hair shaft, the limitation of the porosity of the hair and its roughness.

[0035] Alterations in the biomechanical properties of the hair shaft, excess porosity and roughness are induced by repeated washings, by chemical treatments, such as coloring, or heat treatments, but also by certain environmental factors, including UV radiation, atmospheric pollutants, salt or chlorine.

[0036] In the context of this invention, the expression "alteration of the biomechanical properties of the hair shaft" refers to a hair condition linked to oxidative damage that has led to the degradation of hair keratins. This deterioration of the keratins results in a significant loss of tensile strength and elasticity, and increases the hair's susceptibility to breakage, thus reducing its ability to withstand daily mechanical stresses. This alteration compromises the structural integrity of the hair, causing a notable increase in its porosity and roughness. This alteration is characterized by a lifting of the cuticles on the hair surface, thus affecting its appearance and texture. This definition encompasses the visible signs of hair deterioration, highlighting the impact of oxidative damage on hair health and aesthetics.

[0037] The expression "protected hair shaft" refers to a state of the hair in which the biomechanical properties, structure, and function of the hair fiber are maintained under optimal conditions. In this state, the hair is protected from the harmful effects of oxidative damage that can compromise the structure and cohesion of the hair keratins and the overall integrity of the hair. Protecting the hair shaft thus ensures a significant reduction in excessive porosity and roughness, preventing the disorderly lifting of the cuticles from the hair surface. The result is hair with preserved integrity, which is resistant, resulting in a soft texture, increased shine, and improved overall manageability, reflecting a visual and tactile appearance of health and vitality.

[0038] By "liposoluble extract" according to the invention, it is understood that the nonpolar (lipophilic) compounds have been solubilized and / or extracted in a nonpolar solvent.

[0039] Thus, according to the invention, the extract is derived from the genus Ulex of the Fabaceae family.

[0040] Ulex is a genus of plants in the Fabaceae family. They are also known as under the name "gorse".

[0041] The inventors of the present invention have thus demonstrated, using tests carried out directly on hair, that an oily extract of the Ulex type is capable of preventing damage caused by oxidative stress, in particular by oxidation coloring, including excess porosity and roughness at the level of the hair shaft.

[0042] Furthermore, it has been observed that this extract helps preserve the biomechanical properties of the hair shaft, such as the modulus of elasticity (elastic coefficient), maximum tensile strength, and extensibility, when hair is exposed to intense thermal stress, such as the frequent use of hair straighteners. This protective capacity is particularly advantageous for maintaining the structural integrity of hair under high heat conditions.

[0043] In particular, according to the invention, the protection of the hair shaft against multiple stresses for a protected hair includes the prevention of the alteration of the structure of the keratins which make up 85 to 95% of the hair shaft.

[0044] The application of the extract according to the invention makes it possible to prevent the oxidation or carbonylation of the proteins that constitute the hair shaft, induced in particular by oxidation staining.

[0045] The application of the extract according to the invention also makes it possible to prevent biomechanical alterations of the hair shaft induced in particular by heat treatments.

[0046] Maintaining the structure of the keratins thus ensures tight cuticles on the surface of the hair shaft for optimal hair integrity and aesthetics. Advantageously, the extract comes from Ulex europaeus, Ulex gallii, Ulex minor, Ulex parviflorus, or Ulex cantabricus, preferably Ulex europaeus.

[0048] Advantageously, the Ulex extract is characterized by:

[0049] - An unsaponifiable content of between 0.1 and 10 g / kg of extract, preferably between 1 and 5 g / kg.

[0050] - A sterol content (cholesterol and [3-sitosterol]) between 5 and 15 mg / kg of extract, preferably between 6 and 12 mg / kg.

[0051] - A total carotenoid content of between 0.45 and 1.5 mg / kg of extract, preferably between 0.6 and 1 mg / kg.

[0052] According to one embodiment of the invention, the extract is incorporated into a composition intended for hair application, in which the quantity of extract is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition for hair application may be presented in various forms adapted to the use, including, but not limited to, shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, hair oils, serums, lotions, detangling sprays, coloring products, smoothing products, anti-hair loss treatments, styling mousses, gels, styling waxes, balms, heat protectant sprays, styling products, hair tonics, anti-dandruff treatments, and volumizing sprays. These forms are designed to meet the specific needs of the hair and scalp, offering a variety of options for care and styling.

[0054] Such a hair composition may obviously include one or more other compounds, including, but not limited to, colorants to adjust or enhance hair color, film-forming agents to form a protective film around the hair fiber, surfactants to help cleanse and distribute the product evenly on the hair and scalp, perfumes to enhance the product's odor, preservatives to extend the product's shelf life, emulsifiers to stabilize emulsion-type formulations, oils to nourish and moisturize the hair, UV filters to protect the hair from sun damage, vitamins such as biotin and panthenol to strengthen and revitalize the hair, proteins to rebuild and fortify the hair fiber, plant extracts for their various benefits to scalp and hair health, silicones to add shine and softness,anti-frizz agents, to combat frizz, and any other compound suitable for the cosmetic application of the composition, aimed at improving the health, appearance, or manageability of hair.

[0055] The invention also relates to a cosmetic hair treatment method, characterized in that it consists of applying a liposoluble extract from a plant of the genus Ulex, as defined above, or a composition containing it, to the hair and / or scalp. According to the invention, the application takes place before, during, or after coloring, perming, exposure to heat, exposure to UV radiation, exposure to air pollutants, exposure to salt, or exposure to chlorine.

[0056] This treatment aims to nourish, protect and repair the hair fiber, specifically targeting damage caused by environmental, chemical, or thermal factors, while preserving or restoring the health and aesthetics of the hair.

[0057] The preparation of the extract used in the context of the invention can be carried out as indicated below.

[0058] The plants can be harvested at an early stage as well as at a mature stage. They can be subjected to a partial or even total drying stage.

[0059] Preferably, the plant is harvested fresh and then partially dried to ensure better reproducibility of the composition of the extract.

[0060] Any extraction method known to those skilled in the art that allows the extraction of unsaponifiable compounds, including but not limited to sterols, fatty alcohols, triterpenes, carotenoids, or vitamins, can be used to prepare the extract contained in the composition according to the invention. Examples include maceration, digestion, decoction, infusion, as well as techniques such as ultrasonic extraction, microwave extraction, or the use of subcritical or supercritical fluids. Suitable solvents include glyceryl triheptanoate, vegetable oils, esterified oils, and alkanes such as hexane or heptane.

[0061] The preparation of extracts suitable for the invention is carried out according to conventional techniques which generally involve a grinding step followed by an extraction step. The extraction methods clearly fall within the expertise of those skilled in the art. Generally speaking, they involve an extraction solvent which is, of course, chosen for its ability to extract the unsaponifiable compounds contained in the plants in question.

[0062] This extraction solvent may be a nonpolar solvent, in particular an oily solvent such as triglycerides, glycerol triheptanoate, a vegetable oil such as sunflower oil, or an alkane. Preferably, the extract is a triglyceride extract.

[0063] The extraction may optionally be preceded by enzymatic hydrolysis (proteases, glucanases, etc.) to improve the extraction yield. The extraction may optionally be carried out under microwave conditions.

[0064] For example, the extract according to the invention can be obtained by immersing the plant raw material in a hot solvent with a raw material / solvent mass ratio of between 1 / 2 and 1 / 100, for a period of several hours, for example, five hours. The temperature of the solvent used can be, in particular, between approximately 20 and 80°C. Preferably and advantageously, the extract can be obtained by extraction from the raw material using an extraction vehicle containing triglycerides. The temperature of this solvent can be, in particular, between approximately 20 and 80°C, preferably between 20 and 60°C, and more preferably between 40 and 60°C. The extraction time can be several hours, for example, between 1 and 48 hours, preferably between 2 and 12 hours. The mixture can be mechanically agitated in situ at a speed of between 10 and 1000 rpm.Once extracted, the solid residue of the plant is separated from the extractive solution by decantation or centrifugation. The extract is then filtered through one or more membranes with different thresholds.

[0065] The method for measuring the unsaponifiable fraction is that of ISO 18609. The sterol composition was determined by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (GC-MS). The carotenoid content was quantified by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The extracts according to the present invention are characterized by their unsaponifiable, sterol, and carotenoid contents.

[0066] The features of the invention mentioned above, as well as others, will become clearer upon reading the following examples. EXAMPLES

[0067] Example 1: Methods for obtaining extracts according to the invention

[0068] Example of extraction A: Extraction using a vegetable oil.

[0069] - Incorporation of 100 kg of gorse into 400 kg of sunflower oil.

[0070] - Grinding using an Ultra-turrax type grinder for 6 hours at temperature ambient.

[0071] - Extraction under agitation for 12 hours at room temperature.

[0072] - Separation of soluble and insoluble phases by decantation and / or centrifugation and / or filtration.

[0073] - The extract is then filtered through bags and then filtered through membranes down to 2 µm.

[0074] Example of extraction B: Extraction using triglycerides

[0075] - Incorporation of 100 kg of gorse into 400 kg of triglycerides.

[0076] - Grinding using an Ultra-turrax type grinder for 6 hours at temperature ambient.

[0077] - Extraction under agitation for 12 hours at room temperature.

[0078] - Separation of soluble and insoluble phases by decantation and / or centrifugation and / or filtration.

[0079] - The extract is then filtered through bags and then filtered through membranes down to 2 µm.

[0080] Example of extraction C: Extraction using glycerol triheptanoate

[0081] - Incorporation of 100 kg of gorse into 400 kg of glycerol triheptanoate.

[0082] - Ultrasonic micro-grinding.

[0083] - Extraction under agitation for 4 hours at 50°C.

[0084] - Separation of soluble and insoluble phases by decantation and / or centrifugation and / or filtration.

[0085] - The extract is then filtered through bags and then filtered through membranes down to 2 µm.

[0086] Example of extraction D: Extraction using triglycerides with enzymatic pretreatment.

[0087] - Incorporation of 100 kg of gorse into 500 kg of reverse osmosis water.

[0088] - Addition of an enzymatic preparation containing a mix of proteases and glucanases.

[0089] - Hydrolysis at a temperature of 50°C for 3 hours.

[0090] - Denaturation of enzymes at 90°C for 15 minutes.

[0091] - Separation of soluble and insoluble phases by decantation and / or centrifugation and / or filtration.

[0092] - Re-extraction of the gorse substrate using triglycerides, at a rate of 100 kg of gorse for 400 kg of solvent, for 12 hours at room temperature.

[0093] - Separation of soluble and insoluble phases by decantation and / or centrifugation and / or filtration.

[0094] - The extract is then filtered through bags and then filtered through membranes down to 2 µm. solvents are evaporated under vacuum.

[0095] Example 2: Determination of the unsaponifiable matter, sterols and carotenoid content of gorse extracts of the genus Ulex

[0096] The method for measuring the unsaponifiable fraction is that of ISO 18609. The analysis of the content of unsaponifiables, free and esterified sterols, and carotenoids is carried out on 5 species

[0097] The results obtained are presented in Table 1 below:

[0098] [Tables 1] Species Extraction solvent Unsaponifiable matter (g / kg) Sterols (pg / g) Cholesterol + [3-sitosterol] Carotenoids, including lutein (mg / kg) Ulex europaeus triheptanoate of γ-lycerol 1.8 11 0.77 total 0.46 Lutein Ulex gallii triheptanoate of γ-lycerol 1.1 10 0.98 total 0.56 Lutein Ulex minor triheptanoate of γ-lycerol 1.4 8 0.71 total 0.43 Lutein Ulex parviflorus triheptanoate of γ-lycerol 0.99 8.8 0.83 total 0.50 Lutein Ulex cantabricus triheptanoate of γ-lycerol 1.12 10.5 0.76 total 0.43 Lutein

[0099] Even more advantageously, gorse extract is characterized by:

[0100] Unsaponifiable matter content per kilogram of extract between 0.1 and 10 g / kg of extract, preferably between 1 and 5 g / kg.

[0101] Sterol (cholesterol and [3-sitosterol] content per gram of extract between 5 and 15 mg / kg of extract, preferably between 6 and 12 mg / kg.

[0102] Total carotenoid contents of between 0.45 and 1.5 mg / kg of extract, preferably between 0.6 and 1 mg / kg.

[0103] Studies on extracts from different plants of the genus Ulex show that the concentrations of unsaponifiables, sterols, and carotenoids are quite similar among them. This similarity indicates a consistency in the composition of unsaponifiable compounds, sterols, and carotenoids within the genus, suggesting a constant quality and composition, regardless of the specific species.

[0104] Example 3: Prevention of oxidative damage to the hair shaft

[0105] The objective of this study is to evaluate the effectiveness of fat-soluble extracts from Ulex europaeus, Ulex gallii, Ulex minor, Ulex parviflorus and Ulex cantabricus in protecting hair proteins against oxidative damage induced by oxidation colorings, which are among the most harmful aggressions to hair. Operating procedure#:

[0106] The extracts used are liposoluble extracts of Ulex europaeus, Ulex gallii, Ulex minor, Ulex parviflorus and Ulex cantabricus obtained according to the extraction process shown in Example 1 (Method C).

[0107] The extracts were directly diluted to 3% in the oxidation coloring product and applied to virgin hair for 30 min as recommended by the coloring protocol.

[0108] The hair is then intensely rinsed with clear water and then dried naturally before proceeding with the marking of the oxidized proteins.

[0109] The control strands were not colored, whereas the stressed strands were colored by the oxidation coloring not containing the liposoluble extracts.

[0110] After the treatments and sampling, the carbonylated proteins that correspond to oxidative damage on the hair shafts were labeled and detected using a fluorescent probe specific to carbonyl groups.

[0111] Fluorescent images were taken with an epi-fluorescent microscope and analyzed with hnageL software

[0112] The acquisition conditions were identical for all samples. The carbonylation intensity was measured by integrating the specific fluorescence signal, normalized by the evaluated value.

[0113] TABLE 2 below summarizes the significant protective effects of the fat-soluble extracts of Ulex europaeus, Ulex gallii, Ulex minor, Ulex parviflorus and Ulex cantabricus against oxidative damage to hair shaft proteins induced by oxidation staining.

[0114] For statistics, values ​​of p<0.001 are considered highly significant (***), (Student's t-test compared to colored control hair without extract).

[0115] [Tables2] Fluorescence intensity corresponding to carbonylation intensity. Virgin, uncolored, untreated control hair. Colored control hair without extract. Colored hair + liposoluble extract of Ulex europaeus 3%. Colored hair + liposoluble extract of Ulex gallii 3%. Colored hair + liposoluble extract of Ulex minor 3%. Colored hair + liposoluble extract of Ulex parviflorus 3%. Colored hair + liposoluble extract of Clex cantabricus 3%. Mean 100 377 165*** 206*** 199*** 190*** 187*** Standard deviation 2 8 3 9 5 8 7 Variation rate +277% -56% -47% -49% -49% -50% iation of p vs hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair protein carbohydrates x virgin x colored controls without extract ux colored controls without extract ux colored controls without extract x colored controls without extract x colored controls without extract

[0116] Oxidation staining strongly induced the appearance of carbonylated proteins of +277%, confirming the severe oxidative damage caused by this type of chemical treatment.

[0117] The various liposoluble extracts of the Ulex genus applied to the hair at 3% during oxidation coloring significantly prevented the formation of carbonylated proteins.

[0118] Example 3: maintaining the integrity of the hair shaft

[0119] This study aims to examine whether fat-soluble extracts from Ulex europaeus, Ulex gallii, Ulex minor, Ulex parviflorus and Ulex cantabricus can preserve the integrity of the hair shaft despite exposure to oxidative dye, which is known to increase hair porosity. Procedure#:

[0120] The extracts used are liposoluble extracts of Ulex europaeus, Ulex gallii, Ulex minor, Ulex parviflorus and Ulex cantabricus obtained according to the extraction process shown in Example 1 (Method C).

[0121] The extracts were directly diluted to 3% in the oxidation coloring product and applied to virgin hair for 30 min as recommended by the coloring protocol.

[0122] The hair is then intensely rinsed with clear water and then dried naturally before proceeding with the porosity analysis which reflects the integrity of the hair shaft.

[0123] The control strands were not colored, whereas the stressed strands were colored by the oxidation coloring not containing the liposoluble extracts.

[0124] To evaluate the protective effect of the extracts on the integrity of the hair, the strands are immersed in a fluorescent fluorescein solution and then rinsed.

[0125] After cryopreservation and rapid freezing, cross-sections of hair are analyzed under a microscope to measure the intensity of penetration and diffusion of the marker.

[0126] The images obtained make it possible to quantify the penetration of the fluorophore from the cuticle to the cortex, thus comparing the treatments to virgin hair or to colored hair without the extracts.

[0127] Significant diffusion of fluorescein deep into the hair shaft indicates greater hair porosity. Conversely, blocking this diffusion illustrates the protective efficacy of the extracts, thus preserving the integrity and structure of the hair.

[0128] TABLE 3 below summarizes the significant protective effects of the liposoluble extracts of Ulex europaeus, Ulex gallii, Ulex minor, Ulex parviflorus and Ulex cantabricus against the penetration of fluorescein into the hair shaft induced by oxidation staining.

[0129] For statistics, values ​​of p<0.001 are considered highly significant (***), (Student's t-test compared to colored control hair without extract).

[0130] [Tables3] Fluorescein penetration intensity in the hair shaft (%) Virgin, uncolored, untreated control hair Colored control hair without extract Colored hair + soluble lipo-extract of Clex europaeus 3% Colored hair + soluble lipo-extract of Ulex galli i 3% Colored hair + soluble lipo-extract of Ulex minor 3% Colored hair + soluble lipo-extract of Ulex parviflorus 3% Colored hair + soluble lipo-extract of Ulex cantabricus 3% Average 7 18 g*** 10*** 9*** 9*** 11*** Standard deviation 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 Rate of variation +168% -53% -41% -50% -50% -38% Variation of 1 vs hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair a penetrative virgin x control

[0131] Oxidation staining strongly induced fluorescein penetration of +168%, confirming the increase in porosity and the decrease in the integrity of the hair shaft.

[0132] The various liposoluble extracts of the Ulex genus applied to the hair at 3% during oxidation coloring significantly prevented the penetration of fluorescein, showing maintenance of the integrity of the hair fiber by preserving it from an increase in porosity.

[0133] Example 4: Prevention of cuticle detachment on the surface of the hair shaft, which causes hair roughness

[0134] This study aims to examine whether liposoluble extracts from Ulex europaeus, Ulex gallii, Ulex minor, Ulex parviflorus and Ulex cantabricus can preserve the quality of the hair shaft surface despite exposure to oxidation staining, which is known to increase cuticle detachment responsible for hair roughness. Operating procedure#:

[0135] The extracts used are liposoluble extracts of Ulex europaeus, Ulex gallii, Ulex minor, Ulex parviflorus and Ulex cantabricus obtained according to the extraction process shown in Example 1 (Method C).

[0136] The extracts were directly diluted to 3% in the oxidation coloring product and applied to virgin hair for 30 min as recommended by the coloring protocol.

[0137] The hair is then intensely rinsed with clear water and then dried naturally before proceeding with the roughness analysis which reflects the quality of the cuticles and the surface of the hair shaft.

[0138] The control strands were not colored, whereas the stressed strands were colored by the oxidation coloring not containing the liposoluble extracts.

[0139] The hair shafts are labeled and analyzed by confocal fluorescence microscopy, XFluo® technology, developed by Kamax. Two hundred optical sections are made and used to reconstruct in 3D the surface of the analyzed hair shaft.

[0140] The average roughness is evaluated in pm using 18 measurements for each of the conditions.

[0141] TABLE 4 below summarizes the significant protective effects of fat-soluble extracts of Ulex europaeus, Ulex gallii, Ulex minor, Ulex parviflorus and Ulex cantabricus with respect to the roughness induced by oxidation coloring.

[0142] For statistics, p-values ​​< 0.001 are considered highly significant (***), (Student's t-test compared to colored control hair without extract).

[0143] [Tables4] Hair shaft surface roughness (pm) Virgin, uncolored, untreated control hair Colored control hair without extract Colored hair + liposoluble extract of Ulex x europaeus 3% Colored hair + liposoluble extract of Ulex gallii 3% Colored hair + liposoluble extract of Ulex minor 3% Colored hair + liposoluble extract of Ulex parviflorus 3% Colored hair + liposoluble extract of Ulex cantabricus 3% Mean 0.197 0.233 0.155*** 0.163*** 0.160*** 0.171*** 0.168*** Standard deviation 0.06 0.053 0.027 0.047 0.051 0.041 0.049 Rate of variation +19% -34% -30% -31% -27% -28% Variation of hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair vs Hair roughness x virgin x controls ux controls ux controls x controls ux surface control colored without colored colored colored colored without colored of the stem ps extract s without ext s without ext s extract s without ext ileal rait rait rait rait

[0144] Oxidation staining increased the surface roughness of the hair shafts by +19%.

[0145] The various liposoluble extracts of the Ulex genus applied to the hair at 3% during oxidation coloring significantly prevented or even reversed this increase in roughness, preserving the quality and integrity of the hair shaft, for stronger, shinier and softer hair.

[0146] Example 5: maintaining the oxidation color

[0147] In view of the observed effects of the extracts on porosity and roughness, this study aims to examine whether the liposoluble extracts from Ulex europaeus, Ulex gallii, Ulex minor, Ulex parviflorus and Ulex cantabricus do not block the rise of color during oxidation staining. Operating procedure#:

[0148] The extracts used are liposoluble extracts of Ulex europaeus, Ulex gallii, Ulex minor, Ulex parviflorus and Ulex cantabricus obtained according to the extraction process shown in Example 1 (Method C).

[0149] The extracts were directly diluted to 3% in the oxidation colouring product and applied to bleached white hair for 30 min as recommended by the colouring protocol.

[0150] The measurement of the color rise is carried out with a Konica-Minolta CM2600D spectrocolorimeter, which allows the color to be characterized according to three dimensions (Hue, Value, Saturation, L*a*b*).

[0151] DeltaE*76 (AE*) measures the color difference defined in the L*a*b* color space. It is calculated according to the formula below to evaluate the difference between the hair color before coloring and after coloring, where L1*, a1*, bl* correspond to the L*a*b* values ​​before coloring and L2*, a2*, b2*, to the L*a*b* values ​​after coloring. û£*=VU2M.l*)2+(a2*-al^

[0152] A difference in DeltaE*76 of less than three units is considered undetectable by the human eye and therefore seen as the same color.

[0153] TABLE 5 below summarizes the effects of the lipid-soluble extracts of Ulex europaeus, Ulex gallii, Ulex minor, Ulex parviflorus and Ulex cantabricus with respect to the increase in color induced by oxidation coloring.

[0154] [Tables5] Delta E76* Colored hair without extract Colored hair + 3% oil-soluble extract of Ulex europaeus Colored hair + 3% oil-soluble extract of Ulex gallii Colored hair + 3% oil-soluble extract of Ulex minor Colored hair + 3% oil-soluble extract of Ulex parviflorus Colored hair + 3% oil-soluble extract of Ulex cantabricus Mean 47.97 49.87 47.95 47.55 47.84 47.97 Standard deviation 1.14 0.64 0.65 0.65 0.61 0.89

[0155] The various liposoluble extracts of the Ulex genus applied to the hair at 3% during oxidation coloring did not affect the uptake of the oxidation color, reflected by similar DeltaE76* values, regardless of the condition to which the hair was subjected.

[0156] Example 6: Prevention of alteration of the biomechanical properties of the hair shaft

[0157] This study aims to examine whether the liposoluble extract from Ulex europaeus limits alterations in biomechanical properties such as the modulus of elasticity (elastic coefficient), maximum tensile strength and extensibility, when hair is exposed to intense thermal stresses, such as the frequent use of straightening irons. Operating procedure#:

[0158] The extract used is a liposoluble extract of Ulex europaeus obtained according to the extraction process shown in Example 1 (Method C).

[0159] The extract was diluted to 3% in a serum and applied to strands of hair using a gentle massage.

[0160] The control strands were treated with the serum without the extract.

[0161] The strands are then straightened using a straightener at 230°C.

[0162] The procedure is repeated 5 times before the analysis of the biomechanical parameters of the hair using the Dia-Stron MTT680 which allows measurement of the modulus of elasticity (elastic coefficient), the maximum tensile strength and the extension capacity.

[0163] TABLE 6 below summarizes the effects of the liposoluble extract of Ulex europaeus on alterations in the elasticity coefficient (elastic coefficient in MPa) induced by repeated thermal stress of the straightener.

[0164] For statistics, values ​​of p<0.001 are considered highly significant (***), (Kruskal-Wallis test compared to colored control hair without extract).

[0165] [Tableauxô] Hair biomechanical parameters: elasticity coefficient (MPa) Virgin control hair, unstraightened, untreated Hair straightened + serum Placebo Hair straightened + d'Clex europaeus 3% Mean 1710 83.3 207*** Standard deviation 126 38.2 116 Rate of change -1958% versus untreated, virgin hair controls +59% versus straightened hair + plac ebo serum

[0166] Repeated straightening, which causes thermal stress, has significantly reduced the elasticity coefficient by -1958%, demonstrating the significant loss of elasticity in stressed hair.

[0167] The liposoluble extract of the genus Ulex applied to the hair at 3%, before straightening significantly increased the coefficient of elasticity compared to hair treated with placebo.

[0168] TABLE 7 below summarizes the effects of the liposoluble extract of Ulex europaeus on the alterations in maximum tensile strength induced by repeated thermal stress of the straightener.

[0169] For statistics, p-values ​​< 0.001 are considered highly significant (***), (Kruskal-Wallis test compared to colored control hair without extract).

[0170] [Tables7] Biomechanical parameters of hair: maximum tensile strength (MPa) Virgin unstraightened, untreated control hair Straightened hair + placebo serum Straightened hair + 3% Ulex europaeus Mean 202 50.2 63.9*** Standard deviation 11.9 10.4 10.5 Rate of change -301% versus Virgin unstraightened, untreated control hair +21% versus Straightened hair + placebo serum

[0171] Repeated straightening, which caused thermal stress, greatly reduced the maximum tensile strength by -301%, demonstrating the significant loss of resistance in stressed hair.

[0172] The liposoluble extract of the genus Ulex applied to the hair at 3%, prior to straightening, significantly increased the maximum tensile strength compared to hair treated with placebo.

[0173] TABLE 8 below summarizes the effects of the liposoluble extract of Ulex europaeus on alterations in extension capacity induced by repeated thermal stress of the straightener.

[0174] For statistics, p-values ​​< 0.001 are considered highly significant (***), (Turkey test against colored control hair without extract).

[0175] [Tables8] Hair biomechanical parameters: extension capacity (%) Virgin unstraightened, untreated control hair Straightened hair + placebo serum Straightened hair + Ulex europaeus 3% Mean 55.9 40.9 47.5*** Standard deviation 3.16 3.53 2.65 Rate of change -37% versus Virgin unstraightened, untreated control hair +14% versus Straightened hair + placebo serum

[0176] Repeated straightening responsible for thermal stress significantly reduced the extension capacity by -37% demonstrating the strong loss of resistance of stressed hair.

[0177] The liposoluble extract of the genus Ulex applied to the hair at 3%, prior to straightening, significantly increased the extension capacity compared to hair treated with placebo. CONCLUSION

[0178] The invention illustrates the remarkable effectiveness of liposoluble extracts of Ulex europaeus, Ulex gallii, Ulex minor, Ulex parviflorus and Ulex cantabricus in protecting the hair shaft against the deleterious effects of oxidative coloring, one of the most deleterious stresses for hair, as well as against the deleterious effects of heat treatments.

[0179] By targeting the mechanisms underlying hair problems, primarily the alteration of keratins by their oxidation or carbonylation, these natural extracts offer an innovative solution to preserve hair health by preventing the loss of its integrity and excessive porosity.

[0180] Their application results in hair that is strengthened, soft, shiny, and easy to style, demonstrating the ability of these active ingredients to protect it against a multitude of chemical, thermal or environmental stresses.

[0181] Thus, the invention highlights a significant advance in hair care, emphasizing the importance of natural solutions to combat oxidative damage in order to maintain the integrity of the hair fiber for preserved and aesthetically pleasing hair.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic use of a fat-soluble extract from a plant of the genus Ulex for the protection of hair against damage induced by exposure to stress, such as oxidative or thermal stress, or for its repair after such exposure.

2. Use according to claim 1, for the protection of hair during heat treatment, chemical coloring, perming, exposure to UV, air pollutants, salt or chlorine.

3. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the protection includes the prevention of alteration of the hair shaft, the limitation of oxidation or carbonylation of the proteins of the hair shaft, the limitation of the porosity of the hair and its roughness.

4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is derived from Ulex europaeus, Ulex gallii, Ulex minor, Ulex parviflorus and Ulex cantabricus, preferably from Ulex europaeus.

5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is characterized by: - ​​an unsaponifiable content of between 0.1 and 10 g / kg of extract, preferably between 1 and 5 g / kg. - a sterol content of between 5 and 15 mg / kg of extract, preferably between 6 and 12 mg / kg. - a total carotenoid content of between 0.45 and 1.5 mg / kg of extract, preferably between 0.6 and 1 mg / kg.

6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is incorporated into a composition, wherein the quantity of extract is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Use according to claim 6, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a shampoo, conditioner, hair mask, oil, serum, lotion, detangling spray, coloring product, smoothing product, anti-hair loss product, styling mousse, gel, styling wax, balm, spray product thermal protection, a styling product, a hair tonic, a dandruff treatment product, or a volumizing spray.

8. Use according to any one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that it includes one or more other compounds such as colorants, film-forming agents, surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, emulsifiers, oils, UV filters, vitamins, proteins, plant extracts, silicones, or anti-frizz agents.

9. A cosmetic hair treatment method, characterized in that it consists of applying a liposoluble extract from a plant of the genus Ulex, or a composition containing it, as defined in one of the preceding claims, to the hair and / or scalp.

10. A method according to claim 9, characterized in that the application takes place before, during or after coloring, perming, exposure to heat, exposure to UV, exposure to atmospheric pollutants, exposure to salt or exposure to chlorine.