A cosmetic composition in a gelled aqueous phase comprising a microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and its use in cosmetics

Abstract

Composition comprising at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, one of its fractions, one of its metabolites or mixtures thereof, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form; at least one aqueous phase gelled by at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers and amphiphilic acrylic polymers, hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives, at least one polyol, and at least one oily phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil; and its use in cosmetics.

Description

Title of the invention: Gelled aqueous phase cosmetic composition comprising a microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and its use in cosmetics. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of compositions, in particular cosmetics, comprising at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, one of its fractions, one of its metabolites or mixtures thereof, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form, and dedicated more particularly to skin care.

[0002] It also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising the topical application on these keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention. Previous technique

[0003] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, non-therapeutic, in particular for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: - at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, one of its fractions, one of its metabolites or mixtures thereof, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form; - at least one aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being gelled by at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from among hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers and amphiphilic acrylic polymers; - hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives; - at least one polyol; and - at least one oily phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil; and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care and treatment of keratinous materials, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face.

[0004] It is known to introduce active ingredients into cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions in order to combat the signs of aging and / or to improve the radiance and luminosity of the complexion.

[0005] Among these active ingredients, microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species, one of their fractions, one of their metabolites or mixtures thereof, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form, are known to accelerate epidermal renewal. Due to their properties, they are therefore particularly advantageous for combating the signs of skin aging, for example for reducing fine lines. and / or skin wrinkles, and to improve the radiance of the complexion. Thus, there has long been research into formulating microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species, one of their fractions, one of their metabolites or their mixtures, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form, in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, in different galenic forms, and in particular in large quantities to take maximum advantage of their properties.

[0006] One of the major drawbacks of compositions containing microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species, one of their fractions, one of their metabolites, or mixtures thereof, with the microorganism(s) in lysate form, lies in the difficulty of achieving good product stability over time while maintaining a pleasant sensory experience, such as a feeling of freshness upon application, a smooth glide, and good efficacy in reducing fine lines and / or wrinkles and improving skin radiance. This difficulty is further exacerbated when cosmetic compositions also include moisturizing agents, such as polyols like glycerin. Indeed, the combined use of these raw materials in skincare compositions containing keratinous materials tends to impair their sensory qualities, for example, upon application to the skin.Furthermore, the skin finish is also altered, resulting in stickier formulas that offer less glide and less freshness on the skin.

[0007] In other words, the aim of the invention is to develop a product with an appealing sensory experience, particularly with good spreading properties (glide formulas), providing a smooth feel and free from any undesirable sensory or visual phenomena. To achieve such a sensory experience, it is known to use silicone compounds.

[0008] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges.

[0009] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus enabling us to meet these environmental challenges, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while significantly reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0010] The present invention is specifically designed to provide a galenic formulation that meets all the aforementioned requirements and more particularly without resorting to the use of silicone compounds and / or mono-alkanols and / or polyethylene glycol (PEG).

[0011] The present invention is specifically designed to meet these needs. Summary of the invention

[0012] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic, non-therapeutic composition, specifically for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: - at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, one of its fractions, one of its metabolites or mixtures thereof, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form; - at least one aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being gelled by at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from among hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers and amphiphilic acrylic polymers; - hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives; - at least one polyol; and - at least one oily phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil.

[0013] In a particular embodiment, the microorganism(s) of the genus Bifidobacterium species are chosen from among the following species: Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis, Bifidobacterium pseudobacterium and mixtures thereof, preferably the microorganism is Bifidobacterium longum; and the total content, expressed as active matter, of the lysate of the microorganism(s) of the genus Bifidobacterium species ranges from 1 to 20% by weight of active matter, more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, better from 8 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] In a particular embodiment, at least one hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer and / or amphiphilic acrylic polymer is chosen from: i) AMPS homopolymers comprising, randomly distributed: a. 90% to 99.9% by weight of motifs of general formula (I) below: ch3 4............CHS SOpC CHA (I) in which X+ denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or the ammonium ion, not more than 10% by mole of the X+ cations being possibly H+ protons; b) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of crosslinking motifs derived from at least one monomer containing at least two olefinic double bonds; the weight proportions being defined relative to the total weight of the homopolymer, and ii) copolymers of AMPS and polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate (optionally crosslinked). Preferably, at least one hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer and / or amphiphilic acrylic polymer is selected from crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and / or optionally crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate, and preferably ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate and / or a crosslinked ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate polymer, and is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one other hydrophilic gelling agent selected from non-starch polysaccharides, preferably xanthan gum.

[0016] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives or mixtures in an amount from 0.001% to 2% by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight (of active material), even better from 0.1% to 1% by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] In a particular embodiment, the polyol(s) are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5% to 12% by weight, better from 6% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] In a particular embodiment, at least one non-volatile oil is selected from among non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, and preferably selected from among Cl5-19 alkanes, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl adipate, dicaprylyl ether, squalane and / or octyldodecanol, and preferably squalane and / or octyldodecanol, and the composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2% by weight of oil phase relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant, preferably chosen from alkyd polyglucosides.

[0020] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone compound and / or mono-alkanols and / or polyethylene glycol (PEG).

[0021] As illustrated in the examples below, the inventors have discovered that the combination of raw materials according to the invention makes it possible to obtain compositions with interesting sensory properties, and in particular a freshness on application, good glide, no sticky feeling on the skin, while smoothing out fine lines and / or wrinkles of the skin, and improving the radiance of the complexion and the radiance of the skin.

[0022] The compositions according to the present invention advantageously allow the delivery of ingredients of diverse nature such as cosmetic actives, particles, polymers, perfumes, colorants, mother-of-pearls depending on the different benefit(s) desired.

[0023] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for the care and / or treatment of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising the application on these keratinous materials, in particular the topical application on these keratinous materials of a composition as defined above.

[0024] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the detailed description that follows. Detailed description

[0025] The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.

[0026] By "cosmetic," we mean a composition compatible with the skin and its appendages. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0027] By "keratinous materials", we mean in particular the skin, the scalp, keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hair and body hair, nails, mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0028] By "skin" we mean the entire skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, scalp, décolletage, neck, arms and forearms, eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back of the knees, hands, wrists and ankles, or even more preferably, the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin), décolletage and neck.

[0029] A composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, i.e. tingling, pulling, redness, likely to deter the user from applying this composition.

[0030] As used herein, the terms "treat" and "treatment" are intended to refer to the alleviation of symptoms associated with a specific disorder or condition and / or the elimination of said symptoms as well as the complete disappearance of the disorder or condition in question.

[0031] In the context of the present invention, "prevent" or "prevention" means, according to the invention, reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratinous material.

[0032] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0033] Furthermore, the expressions "at least one" and "at least" used in this description are respectively equivalent to the expressions "one or more" and "greater than or equal to". Microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species

[0034] The composition implemented in the process according to the invention comprises one or more microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species, one of its fractions, one of its metabolites or mixtures thereof, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form.

[0035] For the purposes of this invention, "metabolite" means any substance resulting from the metabolism of the Bifidobacterium species microorganism(s) which has the efficacy to accelerate epidermal renewal.

[0036] By "fraction", for the purposes of the present invention, we mean a fragment of the microorganism(s) having an effectiveness in accelerating epidermal renewal, by analogy with the whole microorganism(s).

[0037] A lysate commonly refers to a material obtained after the destruction or dissolution of biological cells by a phenomenon called cell lysis, thereby causing the release of intracellular biological constituents naturally contained in the cells of the microorganism in question.

[0038] In the context of the present invention, the term "lysate" is used interchangeably to designate the entire lysate obtained by lysis of the microorganism in question or only a fraction thereof. The lysate used is therefore composed wholly or partially of intracellular biological constituents and constituents of cell walls and membranes. More specifically, the lysate contains the cytoplasmic fraction of cells containing enzymes such as lactic acid dehydrogenase, phosphatases, phosphoketolases or transaldolases, and metabolites.

[0039] By way of illustration, the constituents of cell walls include peptidoglycan, murein or mucopeptide, and teichoic acid, and the constituents of cell membranes are composed of glycerophospholipids. This cell lysis can be carried out by various techniques, for example by osmotic shock, thermal shock, ultrasound, or under mechanical stress, for example by centrifugation.

[0040] More specifically, this lysate can be obtained according to the technology described in US patent 4,464,362 and in particular according to the following protocol. The microorganism(s) of the genus Bifidobacterium are preferably cultured anaerobically in a suitable culture medium, for example, according to the conditions described in documents US 4,464,362 and EP 43,128. When the stationary phase of development is reached, the culture medium can be inactivated by pasteurization, for example at a temperature of 60 to 65 °C for 30 minutes. The microorganism(s) thus formed are then collected by a conventional separation technique, such as membrane filtration or centrifugation, and then resuspended in a sterile physiological saline solution of NaCl.The lysate of these microorganisms can then be obtained by ultrasonic disintegration of the previously obtained solution in order to release the cytoplasmic fractions, cell wall fragments, and metabolic products. All components, in their natural distribution, are then stabilized in a weakly acidic aqueous solution.

[0041] The total content of active material(s) present in the lysate obtained by this process preferably ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, and even better, this content is 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lysate. The lysate can be used in various forms, in particular as a solution or as a powder.

[0042] Preferably, the microorganism(s) of the genus Bifidobacterium species are chosen from among the following species: Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis, Bifidobacterium pseudobacterium and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species is Bifidobacterium longum.

[0043] As a lysate that can be used within the meaning of the invention, one can notably mention the ingredient with the INCI name: BIFIDA FERMENT LYSATE. By way of example, one can notably mention the product sold under the name Repair Complex CLR® by the company K. Richter GmbH, which is formed from an inactivated lysate of the species Bifidobacterium longum.

[0044] The total content, expressed as active matter, of the lysate of the Bifidobacterium species microorganism(s) present in the composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 1 to 20% by weight of active matter, more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, and better still from 8 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophilic gelling agents

[0045] According to the first aspect, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one gelling agent selected from hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers and amphiphilic acrylic polymers. a-Hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers

[0046] According to the invention, the expression "hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers" means in particular non-hydrophobic and non-amphiphilic acrylic homopolymers.

[0047] The presence of this hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer makes it possible in particular to obtain a composition which has good stability properties.

[0048] According to one embodiment, the hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer comprises at least one monomer bearing a sulfonic group.

[0049] The homopolymers used in accordance with the invention are homopolymers that can be obtained from an ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, which can be in free form or in partially or totally neutralized form.

[0050] Preferably, the homopolymers are partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for example arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are generally neutralized.

[0051] In the present invention, the term “neutralized” means homopolymers that are totally or virtually totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.

[0052] The homopolymers used in the composition of the invention generally have a number average molecular mass ranging from 1,000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000 g / mol and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g / mol.

[0053] These homopolymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. The monomers bearing a sulfonic group of the homopolymer used in the composition of the invention are in particular selected from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamidoalkyl (C22-Cl)sulfonic acids, N-alkyl (C22-Cl)sulfonic acids. such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers bearing a sulfonic group are selected from (meth)acrylamido alkyl (in Cl to C22) sulfonic acids, for example acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid, and 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®), and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, are used.

[0056] When homopolymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from among the unsaturated polyolefin compounds commonly used to crosslink polymers obtained by free radical polymerization.

[0057] Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allylic ethers of sugar alcohols, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allylic esters of phosphoric acid derivatives and / or vinyl phosphonic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0058] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is selected from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate, and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol%, and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the rhomopolymer.

[0059] The homopolymer of monomers bearing a sulfonic group can be crosslinked with one or more crosslinking agents.

[0060] These homopolymers are generally cross-linked and neutralized, and they can be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:

[0061] (a) the monomer such as 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of tert-butanol or water and tert-butanol; (b) the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably aqueous ammonia, in the amount necessary to achieve a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the homopolymer ranging from 90% to 100%; (c) the crosslinked monomer(s) is / are added to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b); (d) Standard free radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of free radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10 to 150 °C; the homopolymer precipitates in the tert-butanol-based solution or dispersion. Preferred AMPS homopolymers are generally characterized by the following components, distributed randomly: a. 90% to 99.9% by weight of motifs of general formula (I) below: HL CH CH (D in which X+ denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or the ammonium ion, not more than 10% by mole of the X+ cations being possibly H+ protons; b) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of crosslinking motifs derived from at least one monomer containing at least two olefinic double bonds; the weight proportions being defined in relation to the total weight of the homopolymer.

[0062] The homopolymers according to the invention which are most particularly preferred comprise from 98% to 99.5% by weight of formula (I) motifs and from 0.2% to 2% by weight of crosslinking motifs.

[0063] One homopolymer of this type which may be mentioned in particular is the crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin* AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide). b-Amphiphilic acrylic polymers

[0064] Such polymers can be derived from the AMPS® products described above.

[0065] These polymers comprise both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part comprising at least one fatty chain. They are therefore amphiphilic polymers.

[0066] A fatty chain of such a polymer can comprise from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0067] AMPS® copolymers in accordance with the invention can have a mass average molecular weight ranging from 50,000 to 10,000,000, in particular from 100,000 to 8,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 7,000,000.

[0068] The AMPS® copolymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0069] Among the crosslinking agents suitable for use, mention may be made, without limitation, of methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).

[0070] The degree of crosslinking can range from 0.01% in mole to 10% in mole and in particular from 0.2% in mole to 2% in mole relative to the polymer.

[0071] An amphiphilic AMPS® polymer suitable for use in the invention may be selected, for example, from statistically modified amphiphilic AMPS polymers by reaction with a C6 to C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154.

[0072] These polymers may also contain other hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomers selected, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their alkyl-substituted derivatives or their esters obtained with mono- or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacryl amide, vinylpyrrolidone, itaconic acid and maleic acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0073] A polymer of the invention can be selected from the amphiphilic polymers of AMPS® and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0074] The hydrophobic part can be a linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical (e.g. n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl), branched (e.g. isostearic) or cyclic (e.g. cyclododecane or adamantane).

[0075] An ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer suitable for use in the invention may be selected from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (II) below: H .4 y (II) in which: R27 denotes hydrogen atony or a linear or branched Cl-alkyl radical (preferably methyl), Y denotes O or NH; R28 designates a hydrophobic radical comprising a fatty chain containing 7 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 and more particularly 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0076] The hydrophobic radical R28 is selected from among saturated or unsaturated linear C7 to C22 alkyl radicals (e.g. n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl), branched alkyl radicals (e.g. isostearic) or cyclic alkyl radicals (e.g. cyclododecane or adamantane); C7 to Cl8 alkylperfluoro radicals (e.g. the group of formula (CH2)2(CF2)9-CF3); the cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol ester, e.g. cholesteryl hexanoate; aromatic polycyclic groups, e.g. naphthalene or pyrene.

[0077] Among these radicals, linear and branched alkyl radicals are particularly preferred.

[0078] According to one embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic radical R28 may also include at least one alkylene oxide motif and in particular a polyoxyalkylene chain.

[0079] A polyoxyalkylene chain can be formed from ethylene oxide motifs and / or propylene oxide motifs and more particularly can be formed only from ethylene oxide motifs.

[0080] The number of moles of oxyalkylene motifs can generally vary from 1 to 30 mol, more particularly from 2 to 25 mol and even more particularly from 3 to 20 mol.

[0081] Among the amphiphilic AMPS® polymers suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of:

[0082] Neutralized or unneutralized, crosslinked or uncrosslinked copolymers comprising 15 to 60 wt% of AMPS units and 40 to 85 wt% of alkyl (C8 to C16) (meth)acrylamide or alkyl (C8 to C16) (meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 750 899; terpolymers comprising 10 mol% to 90 mol% of units acrylamides, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS motifs and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n alkyl (C6 to C18) acrylamide motifs relative to the polymer, such as those described in US-A-5,089,578 patent.

[0083] As amphiphilic polymers suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of polyoxyethylenated copolymers (crosslinked or noncrosslinked) of AMPS® and alkyl methacrylates, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] As amphiphilic polymers suitable for use in the invention, mention may also be made of copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS® and n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl and / or n-octadecyl methacrylate, and also of copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, which may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0085] Reference may also be made to amphiphilic copolymers, cross-linked or non-cross-linked, comprising or even formed from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid motifs (AMPS®) of formula (III) below: ------------..... -Ah: (III) in which X can be a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation, or an ammonium ion;

[0086] and formula motifs (IV) below: R27 (IV) in which n and p, independently of each other, denote a number of moles and vary from 0 to 30, in particular from 1 to 25 and more particularly from 3 to 20, provided that n + p is less than or equal to 30, in particular less than 25 and more particularly less than 20; R27 has the same meaning as that indicated in the preceding formula (II), and R29 designates a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 7 to 22 and preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0087] In formula (III), the cation X may more specifically designate sodium or ammonium. In particular, one may refer to: non-crosslinked polymers for which p = 0, n = 7 or 25, R27 denotes methyl and R29 represents a C12-C14 or C16-C18 alkyl mixture, and crosslinked polymers for which p = 0, n = 8 or 25, R27 denotes methyl and R29 represents a C16-C18 alkyl mixture.

[0088] These polymers are described and synthesized in document EP 1 069 142.

[0089] These particular amphiphilic polymers can be obtained according to standard free radical polymerization processes in the presence of one or more initiators such as, for example, azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, 2,2-azobis[2-amidinopropane] hydrochloride (ABAH), organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide, tert-butyl hydroperoxide, etc., mineral peroxide compounds such as potassium persulfate or ammonium persulfate, or H2O2 optionally in the presence of reducing agents.

[0090] These amphiphilic polymers can be obtained by free radical polymerization in a tert-butanol medium, in which they precipitate.

[0091] By using precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol, it is possible to obtain a size distribution of polymer particles that is particularly favorable to its uses.

[0092] The reaction can be carried out at a temperature between 0 and 150°C and preferably between 10 and 100°C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure.

[0093] The reaction can also be carried out under an inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen.

[0094] A polymer in accordance with the invention can be partially or totally neutralized with a mineral or organic base such as those mentioned above.

[0095] The molar percentage concentration of formula motifs (III) and formula motifs (IV) in an amphiphilic polymer according to the invention can vary depending on the desired cosmetic application, the nature of the emulsion (oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion) and the rheological properties of the desired formulation.

[0096] It can vary between 0.1 and 99.9% by mole.

[0097] The molar proportion of the formula (IV) motifs in an amphiphilic polymer according to the invention can preferably vary from 0.1% to 50%, more particularly from 1% to 25% and even more particularly from 3% to 10%.

[0098] The molar proportion of formula (IV) motifs in an amphiphilic polymer according to the invention can preferably vary from 50.1% to 99.9%, more particularly from 60% to 95% and even more particularly from 65% to 90%.

[0099] The distribution of monomers in the polymers of the invention can be, for example, alternating, sequenced (including multi-sequenced) or statistical (random).

[0100] As a guide, and without being limiting, the following commercial references may be mentioned: Aristoflex® HMS and Aristoflex® HMB sold by Clariant, these two references relating to crosslinked polymers.

[0101] Aristoflex® HMS is the name of the 80 / 20 AMPS© / cetearyl methacrylate copolymer, ethoxylated (25 EO), crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) or ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / stearate-25 methacrylate crosspolymer as the INCI name.

[0102] As an INCI name, Aristoflex® HMB is ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer.

[0103] It is also possible to use, as a hydrophobic AMPS copolymer, non-crosslinked AMPS® copolymers (Aristoflex® LNC or SNC), which are also effective in terms of stabilizing emulsions.

[0104] As an INCI name, Aristoflex® LNC is ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Laureth-7 methacrylate copolymer.

[0105] As an INCI name, Aristoflex® SNC is ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer.

[0106] Among the acrylic polymers that can be combined in accordance with the invention, mention can also be made of neutralized crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers.

[0107] A preferred hydrophilic gelling agent of the present invention is ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, also known by the trade name Hostacerin AMPS®, and commercially available from the supplier Clariant. It is also described as poly(acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid) (AMPS®) partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked.

[0108] Other preferred hydrophilic gelling agents of the present invention are copolymers of AMPS and polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate (optionally crosslinked), and mixtures thereof such as the crosslinked polymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate, available under the trade names Aristoflex HMS; the crosslinked polymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 methacrylate, available under the trade names Aristoflex SNC; and an ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, available under the trade names Aristoflex AVC, Aristoflex JQD, Hostacerin SAF, all commercially available from the supplier Clariant.

[0109] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and / or at least one optionally crosslinked copolymer of AMPS and polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate.

[0110] According to a more preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate and / or a crosslinked polymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / steareth-25 methacrylate.

[0111] Advantageously, at least one hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer and / or amphiphilic acrylic polymer may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] According to one embodiment, at least one hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer and / or amphiphilic acrylic polymer may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, and better greater than or equal to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] Gelling agent selected from non-starch polysaccharides

[0114] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one other hydrophilic gelling agent selected from non-starch polysaccharides.

[0115] Non-starch polysaccharides can be selected from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and their derivatives or fructans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans, pectins, and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0116] In particular, non-starch polysaccharides may be selected from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextran, celluloses and their derivatives, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, the Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, carob gums, galactomannans such as guar gum and their non-ionic derivatives, particularly hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0117] More particularly, non-starch polysaccharides may be selected from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, sceroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] Preferably, the non-starch polysaccharide is xanthan gum.

[0119] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2%, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, of at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from non-starch polysaccharides, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hyaluronic acid and / or one of its salts

[0120] The composition according to the invention also comprises hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives.

[0121] Hyaluronic acid belongs to the glycosaminoglycan (GAG) family.

[0122] GAGs are linear chains composed of repeating basic disaccharides, always containing a hexosamine (glucosamine or galactosamine) and another sugar (glucuronic acid, iduronic acid, or galactose). The glucosamine is either N-sulfated or N-acetylated. In contrast, the galactosamine is always N-acetylated. Furthermore, there may be O-linked sulfates on the hexosamine, iduronic acid, and galactose.

[0123] Hyaluronic acid or hyaluronan (HA) is the main GAG of the dermis, the latter containing half of the HA in the body.

[0124] It is a polysaccharide of disaccharides themselves composed of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine, linked together by alternating beta-1,4 and beta-1,3 glycosidic bonds. It plays an important role in the hydration and elasticity of the skin.

[0125] The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes, within the scope of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, in a chain of alternating glycosidic linkages [3(1,4) and [3(1,3)], having a molecular weight (MW) that can vary between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source of the hyaluronic acid and / or the preparation methods.

[0126] Thus, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" includes all fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight in particular within the molecular weight range recalled above.

[0127] In particular, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight between 50,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 100,000 and 5,000,000, especially between 400,000 and 5,000,000 Da. In this case, we speak of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0128] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that can also be adapted to the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight between 50,000 and 400,000 Da. In this case, we speak of hyaluronic acid of intermediate molecular weight.

[0129] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that can be adapted to the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. In this case, we speak of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0130] Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes hyaluronic acid esters, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with alcohols or oxyethylenated alkyls, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a substitution rate at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid varying from 0.5 to 50%.

[0131] Examples include methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters were notably described in D. Campoccia et al. “Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification”, Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

[0132] The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for hyaluronic acid esters.

[0133] In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is present in the form of spheres. In particular, such spheres are marketed by BASF under the name Hyaluronic Acid Sphere. This is a mixture of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, namely 1.5 x 10⁶, 400,000 and 600,000 Da.

[0134] The term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes, within the framework of the present invention, salts of hyaluronic acid and in particular alkali salts such as sodium salt (sodium hyaluronate) and potassium salt (potassium hyaluronate).

[0135] Preferably, sodium hyaluronate will be used according to the invention.

[0136] Hyaluronic acid may in particular be supplied by the company Hyactive under the trade name CPN (PM: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (PM: 1.1 x 106), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra HA (PM: 820000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra AF (PM: 69000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Oligo HA (PM: 6100 Da) or by the company Vam Farmacos Metica under the name D Factor (PM: 380 Da).

[0137] In a preferred embodiment, hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives or mixtures is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount from 0.001% to 2% by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight (of active material), even better from 0.1% to 1% by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] Non-ionic surfactants, preferably chosen from alkyl polyglucosides

[0139] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise a non-ionic surfactant, preferably chosen from alkyl polyglucosides.

[0140] Alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) belong to the alkyl polyglycoside family and generally have the following structure: R(O)(G)X in which the radical R is a linear or C12-C22 branched alkyl radical, G is a glucose remnant and x varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5 and more preferably from 1.1 to 2.

[0141] According to the invention, the term alkylpolyglucoside (APG) also encompasses polyalkyl(poly)glucosides. As alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, preferably those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group comprising preferably from 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units. Alkylpolyglucosides can be selected, for example, from decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9 / Cn-polyglucoside (1.4) such as the product marketed under the name Mydol 10® by Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by Henkel and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by Cognis or ORAMIX CG 110® by SEPPIC; lauryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by Henkel; coco glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by Henkel; caprylyl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by Cognis; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the APG is decyl glucoside. .

[0142] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.015% to 7%, preferably from 0.01% to 5%, and preferably from 0.02% to 1%, by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of aqueous phase. Fatty phase

[0143] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oily phase.

[0144] The oily phase may consist of any fats conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields; in particular, it may comprise at least one oil.

[0145] The term "oil" means a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, in liquid form at ambient temperature (20 °C + / - 5 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, and of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0146] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0147] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0148] For the purposes of this invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means any oil consisting mainly of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen, and free of silicon atoms. A hydrocarbon oil as defined in this invention is therefore non-siliconized. These oils may, in particular, contain one or more ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid, and / or alcohol groups.

[0149] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention include: (i) vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, and rosehip oils; or triglycerides caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; (ii) Synthetic ethers of formula R1-O-R2 in which RI and R2, whether identical or different, independently designate a linear, branched, or cyclic C6-C24 alkyl group, preferably a C6-C18 alkyl group, and preferably a C8-C12 alkyl group. It may be preferable for RI and R2 to be identical. Examples of linear alkyl groups include hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undodyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, behenyl, docosyl, tricosyl, and tetracosyl groups.Examples of branched alkyl groups include 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, and 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl. The 3,7-dimethyloctyl group and the 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group are examples. Other cyclic alkyl groups include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group, and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group., dilaury ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethyl butyl ether, cetyl dimethyl butyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention may in particular include dicaprylyl ether, such as CETIOL OE, marketed by BASF; . (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils, volatile or involatile, and their derivatives, alkanes comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, such as in particular Cl5-19 alkanes such as those marketed by Seppic under the name Emogreen L15 or Emogreen L19, Vaseline, polydecenes, polyisobutenes, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as, for example, Parléam® marketed by NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed by AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 marketed by SYNTEAL, REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed by WITCO, or PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation. Among the preferred synthetic linear or branched hydrocarbons, squalane, which is an oil derived from hydrogenation of squalene such as for example NEOSSANCE SQUALANE marketed by the company GIVAUDAN, and their mixtures; (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of the formula RCOOR' in which R represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R + R' is >10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN®" by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-TEND 226®" by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate,diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by the company Stearinerie Dubois; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and esters of pentaerythritol; citrates or tartrates such as linear C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE, as well as linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates; , (v) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; (vi) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis; and their mixtures.

[0150] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from the Cl5-19 alkanes, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl adipate, dicaprylyl ether, squalane and / or octyldodecanol, and preferably squalane and / or octyldodecanol.

[0151] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight of fat phase relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0152] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1 to 5% by weight of fat phase, more particularly from 0.5 to 4% by weight, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight of fat phase relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone compounds. For the purposes of this invention, "free of silicone compounds" means an amount of silicone compounds less than or equal to 1% by weight, in particular a content less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably a content less than or equal to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain any silicone compounds.

[0154] By silicone compounds (also called silicones), we mean all silicone compounds that can be used in cosmetic and / or dermatological fields, i.e. inorganic compounds consisting of at least a mixture of silicon and oxygen, including in particular silicone oils, silicone surfactants, dimethylsiloxane polymers, volatile or functionalized silicones, silicone elastomers, silicone resins, phenylated or amine silicones, and mixtures thereof. Aqueous phase

[0155] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least water mixed or not with one or more solvents soluble or miscible in water.

[0156] An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may include, for example, water chosen from a natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, Saint Gervais Mont Blanc water, or Vichy waters, or a floral water.

[0157] The composition according to the invention may also include any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound such as film-forming polymers, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0158] Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in a composition according to the invention at a rate of at least 70% by weight, in particular from 75% to 95% by weight, and more particularly from 85% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. The quantity of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 60% by weight, and better still at least 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyols

[0159] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase contains at least one polyol.

[0160] For the purposes of this invention, polyol means a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least two hydroxyl functions.

[0161] Preferably, the polyol(s) have a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched.

[0162] Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms from 2 to 20, and preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12, and better from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0163] According to one embodiment, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0164] The polyol(s) may be selected from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, pentane-1,2-diol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol, and mixtures thereof.

[0165] According to a particular embodiment, the polyol(s) can be chosen from, a polyol suitable for the invention is chosen from glycerin, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0166] According to a particular embodiment, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a quantity greater than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 6% by weight and even more preferably greater than or equal to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5% to 12% by weight, better from 6% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0168] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from compounds consisting of a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, such as polyethylene glycols (PEGs). For the purposes of this invention, "free from compounds consisting of a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl groups" means an amount of compounds consisting of a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, in in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, with a concentration of 5% or less by weight, in particular 1% or less by weight, preferably 0.50% or less by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise compounds consisting of a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl groups.

[0169] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an amount of polyethylene glycol (PEG) less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular a content less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably a content less than or equal to 0.50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise polyethylene glycol (PEG).

[0170] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of monoalkanols. For the purposes of this invention, "free of monoalkanols" means an amount of any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound and a single hydroxyl (OH) group less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular a content less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably a content less than or equal to 0.50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any monoalkanols.

[0171] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is, in particular, free from Ci-C4 monoalkanols, that is, from any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and a single hydroxyl (OH) group. For the purposes of this invention, "free from Ci-C4 monoalkanols" means an amount of any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and a single hydroxyl (OH) group less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular a content less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably a content less than or equal to 0.50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise CrC4 monoalkanols, and in particular does not contain methanol, ethanol, propanol, or isopropanol. Active cosmetic ingredients

[0172] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient.

[0173] In particular, the additional cosmetic active ingredient may at least be a hydrophilic active ingredient.

[0174] A "hydrophilic active ingredient" is defined as a water-soluble or water-dispersible active ingredient capable of forming hydrogen bonds. Examples of hydrophilic active ingredients include moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, antibacterial agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0175] The additional active ingredient(s) may be chosen from among: - natural extracts; - extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; - vitamins and their derivatives, such as vitamin C and its derivatives, including its esters, or tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), - hydrating agents such as urea, hydroxyureas; - antioxidant compounds; - anti-aging actives, such as salicylic acid compounds and its derivatives, adenosine; and - their mixtures.

[0176] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of cosmetic active ingredient according to the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0177] The composition of the present invention may also include conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example perfumes, chelating agents (for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, disodium EDTA, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate), preservatives (for example, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH regulators (for example, triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), gelling agents, fillers, coloring materials and mixtures thereof.

[0178] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition. Cosmetic composition

[0179] For topical application to keratinous materials, and in particular the skin, a composition according to the invention advantageously takes the form of a solution or an aqueous dispersion of the lotion or serum type, or even of liquid emulsions obtained by dispersing an oily phase in an aqueous phase

[0180] According to a particular mode, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous gel or a serum.

[0181] By way of illustration and not limitation of a composition according to the invention, compositions whose viscosity varies from 10 to 90UD, preferably from 30 to 50UD measured with a type 2 mobile according to the protocol detailed in the Materials and Methods chapter below may be cited.

[0182] The composition according to the invention may include all the constituents usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0183] Preferably, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed off after application.

[0184] The composition according to the invention provides long-lasting hydration, in particular hydration for a period of 12 hours or more, to the keratinous material to which it is applied, in particular the skin of the face and / or body, in particular the face and / or neck and / or hands. Uses and processes

[0185] Finally, the invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above, for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin of the body and / or face.

[0186] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above to prevent and / or treat the signs of aging of a keratinous material, in particular the skin of the body and / or face.

[0187] The invention also relates, according to yet another aspect, to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face, comprising at least the application on said keratinous materials of a cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0188] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting skin darkening and / or improving the color and / or homogeneity of the complexion comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0189] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for hydrating keratinous materials, preferably the skin of the body and / or face, comprising the application on the surface of said keratinous materials of at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0190] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material, preferably the skin of the body and / or face, comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0191] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0192] The cosmetic use or process of the invention is implemented by topically administering a composition according to the invention.

[0193] Topical administration consists of the external application of cosmetic compositions to the skin using the usual application techniques for these compositions. Generally, this application can be made directly with the finger or using a woven or non-woven support onto which an appropriate amount of said composition has been previously deposited.

[0194] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

[0195] In the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are "expressed as % of raw material", more precisely as % by weight of raw material in relation to the total weight of the composition. Examples Methods and Measures Raw materials

[0196] In the examples below, the compounds are identified by their INCI name: “BIFIDA FERMENT LYSATE” is marketed under the name REP AIR COMPLEX CLR PE-F by the company CLR; "SODIUM HYALURONATE" is marketed under the name GENHYAL by the company GIVAUDAN “AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE” is marketed under the name HOSTARECIN AMPS by the company CLARIANT; "SQUALANE" is marketed under the name NEOSSANCE SQUALANE by the company GIVAUDAN. "OCTYLDODECANOL" is a product marketed under the name EUTANOL G / MB by BASF. "DECYL GLUCOSIDE" is marketed under the name PLANT AC ARE 2000 UP by the company BASF. MATERIALS AND METHODS Stability measurement

[0197] The stability of the compositions can be evaluated according to the following protocol: Initial tests are carried out on a composition immediately after its preparation. The composition to be tested is then stored for two months at different temperatures: at room temperature (approximately 25°C), at 4°C, at 45°C, and / or at 55°C. The temperature can be regulated using an oven, for example, the Bio Concept oven from Firlabo. The properties are evaluated after 10 days, one month, and / or two months of storage under the conditions described above.

[0198] The properties evaluated are: - the pH of the composition, measured using a pH meter; - the viscosity of the composition, measured according to the method described below; - the appearance of the composition, in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by observation of the composition under an optical microscope between a slide and a coverslip, at a magnification of X10; - the color and smell of the composition; and It will also be observed that destabilizing phenomena of the composition will occur, such as the appearance of creaming, release, coalescence, sedimentation, flocculation, the formation of a surface film, mottling...

[0199] The closer the properties of the composition remain after 10 days, 1 month, and / or 2 months of storage to those initially measured at 25°C, the more stable the composition can be considered. In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, without any destabilization or change in color or odor, then it is considered stable. Sliding measurement protocol#:

[0200] The sensory effect assessment consists of evaluating the ease with which the fingers can perform a circular motion during the application of the composition according to the invention by a panel of experts. To evaluate this parameter, 100 pL (2 x 50) of the composition to be tested are drawn using a micropipette and then deposited on the inner surface of the forearm. A tactile evaluation of the slipperiness is performed during the 1st, 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th, and 25th rotations. The composition is then spread on the fingers, performing 5 rotations with the index and middle fingers.

[0201] Slipperiness is assessed on a continuous scale from "low" to "high". Freshness measurement protocol:

[0202] The evaluation of the sensory effect consists of assessing the ability to provide a sensation of freshness on the skin after application of the composition according to the invention by a panel of experts. To evaluate this parameter, 100 pL (2 x 50) of the composition to be tested are taken using a micropipette and then applied to the cheek: the sensation of freshness is evaluated during 8.5 rotations performed with the fingers on the cheek.

[0203] Freshness is assessed on a continuous scale from "low" to "high". Viscosity measurement protocol:

[0204] For viscosity measurement, a Rhéomat 100 PLUS viscometer is used with a measuring system comprising a type 2 spindle plus its type 2 cup and a thermostatically controlled bath. The operating procedure is as follows:

[0205] Install the mobile 2 in the viscometer and perform a blank. Fill the beaker 2 with composition and position it in the thermostatic bath. Immerse the mobile 2 in the beaker 2 and wait until it reaches a temperature of 25°C. Start the measurement when the mobile 2 is at the correct temperature and record the measurement after 10 minutes. Example 1#: Preparing a composition

[0206] A composition according to the invention is prepared according to the protocol described below, with the nature of the ingredients and their respective quantities being given in Table 1. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preparation of a composition according to the invention:

[0207] The raw materials of phases A1 and A2 are mixed at room temperature to obtain a clear liquid. The compounds of phase B are then added with stirring until a smooth and homogeneous phase is obtained. The compounds of phases C and D are then added.

[0208] [Tables 1] Phase Compounds [nomL^CQ % Ai WATER QS ai SODWM HYDROXIDE 0.0345 Al Preservatives 0.Ë Al GLYCERIN 5 Al Actds 0.6 Al PEmYLENE GLYCOl 3 Al chelating agents 0.25 A2 miiÀ FERMENT LYSATE 10 S SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.45 S AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE 0.25 S

[0209] Example 2: Evaluation of the composition according to the invention

[0210] The composition according to the invention was prepared according to example 1.

[0211] This composition was then tested according to the protocol previously described above in the section "Methods and measures".

[0212] The composition according to the invention is stable over time, and has a viscosity, measured according to the process described above, between 35UD (M2) and 47UD (M2).

[0213] The composition according to the invention was also tested on a panel of 160 consumers according to the protocols described above. The results obtained show that the composition according to the invention has the following advantages: - a satisfactory appearance, a texture that is easy to apply and spread; - During application, the composition exhibits satisfactory glide. The glide of this composition is maintained over time during application, even though the composition is free of oils and silicone compounds such as silicone oils and organopolysiloxane elastomers; - Upon application, the composition leaves a feeling of freshness, although the composition is free of mono-alcohols; - After application of the formula, the treated skin appears more radiant and has a more even complexion. The size of wrinkles and fine lines also appears reduced. Finally, the formula does not leave the skin feeling oily all day.

Claims

Demands

1. A composition, in particular a cosmetic, non-therapeutic, in particular for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: - at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, one of its fractions, one of its metabolites or mixtures thereof, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form; - at least one aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being gelled by at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers and amphiphilic acrylic polymers; - hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives; - at least one polyol; and - at least one oily phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil.

2. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the microorganism(s) of the genus Bifidobacterium species are selected from the following species: Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis, Bifidobacterium pseudobacterium and mixtures thereof, preferably the microorganism is Bifidobacterium longum.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content, expressed as active matter, of the lysate of the microorganism(s) of the genus Bifidobacterium species ranges from 1 to 20% by weight of active matter, more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, better from 8 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer and / or amphiphilic acrylic polymer is selected from: i) AMPS homopolymers comprising, randomly distributed: a. from 90% to 99.9% by weight of motifs of general formula (I) below: g" , / \ / CH CH, Zz \ o? / N..................(............CKSOX H 1 - * CH$ (I) in which X+ denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or the ammonium ion, not more than 10% by mole of the X+ cations being possibly H+ protons; b) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of crosslinking motifs derived from at least one monomer containing at least two olefinic double bonds; the weight proportions being defined relative to the total weight of the homopolymer, and ii) copolymers of AMPS and polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate (optionally crosslinked).

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer and / or amphiphilic acrylic polymer is selected from crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and / or optionally crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate, and preferably ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate and / or a crosslinked ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate polymer.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer and / or amphiphilic acrylic polymer is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount from 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one other hydrophilic gelling agent selected from non-starch polysaccharides, preferably xanthan gum.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives or mixtures, is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount from 0.001% to 2% by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight (of active material), even better from 0.1% to 1% by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol(s) are present in the composition in an amount from 3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5% to 12% by weight, better from 6% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one non-volatile oil is selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, and preferably selected from C15-19 alkanes, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl adipate, dicaprylyl ether, squalane and / or octyldodecanol, and preferably squalane and / or octyldodecanol.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2% by weight of fat phase relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant, preferably selected from alkylpolyglucosides.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free from silicone compounds and / or mono-alkanols and / or polyethylene glycol (PEG).

14. A cosmetic, non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material, preferably skin, comprising the application on the surface of said keratinous material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13.

15. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to prevent and / or treat the signs of

16. aging of a keratinous material, preferably the skin of the body and / or face. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to limit skin darkening and / or improve the color and / or evenness of the complexion.