COMPOSITION WITH IMPROVED FOAMING PROPERTIES

Abstract

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, particularly emulsions, and their uses in the cosmetic care and cleansing of keratinous materials, preferably hair, and skin, preferably the scalp, and more particularly to compositions such as cosmetic compositions in the form of shampoo, conditioner, mask, hair serum, scalp protective serum, or hair and / or scalp scrub. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: 5 to 25% oil phase by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, and 75 to 95% aqueous phase by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises dehydroxanthan gum, and the oil phase comprises cetyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate citrate. No figure is shown in the abstract.

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION HAVING IMPROVED FOAMING PROPERTIES technical field

[0001] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular emulsions, and their uses in the cosmetic care and cleansing of keratinous materials, preferably hair, and skin, preferably the scalp, more particularly to that of compositions such as cosmetic compositions in the form of shampoo, conditioner, mask, hair serum, scalp protective serum, or hair and / or scalp scrub composition.

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: from 5 to 25% of oil phase by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, from 75 to 95% of aqueous phase by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises dehydroxanthan gum, and the oil phase cetyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate citrate.

[0003] The applicant is a creator of Botanical Beauty and has been promoting natural cosmetics since 1959. Its research into raw materials and its expertise in formulation drive it to innovate in order to create increasingly natural formulas to satisfy consumers and generate scientific value. In order to limit its environmental impact, the applicant is pursuing an innovation approach to replace ingredients derived from non-renewable and non-easily biodegradable resources. This represents a major challenge in certain cosmetic categories, as it is imperative to simultaneously guarantee the safety, efficacy, and sensory appeal of the products for consumers. State of the art

[0004] Shampoo creams are well-known but have the disadvantage of not lathering as well as traditional shampoo. Guar gum hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is commonly used in these types of products as a hair conditioner and thickener, but it is not without its drawbacks. First, since guar gum hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is not natural (naturalness rating of 0, according to ISO 16128), it cannot be used in excessively high percentages, as this degrades the naturalness of the cosmetic composition. Guar gum hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is also known for its poor biodegradability and its harmful effects on the environment.

[0005] Moreover, since guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride tends to gel the cosmetic composition, it thus tends to block the foaming of surfactants (by contributing to gelling the cosmetic composition, it does not promote good foaming).

[0006] Indeed, this conventional conditioner does not provide sufficient thickening when used at reasonable percentages that do not compromise the naturalness of the composition or its texture. Even when combined with xanthan gum, the resulting compositions remained unstable and performance was lacking, particularly with regard to the expected performance for this type of product in terms of lather quality and detangling.

[0007] There is therefore a need to replace the guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride usually used in this type of composition, while retaining its advantageous hair properties (which in particular condition the hair and thus improve the coating and detangling of the hair fiber), as well as the stability of these formulations. Detailed description of the invention

[0008] It is to the applicant's credit that she has proposed a new cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, comprising - 5 to 25% oil phase, preferably 5 to 10%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, - 75 to 95% aqueous phase, preferably 90 to 95%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises dehydroxanthan gum, and the oily phase cetyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate citrate and which, when used under normal conditions, makes it possible to obtain the desired texture, to stabilize the formula without the addition of additional stabilizer, to improve the foam start-up and the distribution of the foam on the fiber during use, or to coat the hair leaving a soft finish on the fiber.

[0009] The new composition according to the invention is stable. It can have a shelf life of 3 years at room temperature (15-25°C).

[0010] Surprisingly, and contrary to what usually occurs when a gelling agent is used in a sulfate-free shampoo, the combination according to the invention does not block the formation of lather or diminish its quality. On the contrary, the combination according to the invention promotes lather formation. Unlike a conventional composition containing guar gum, the composition according to the invention lathers sufficiently from the first wash (whereas with the conventional composition containing guar gum, it is necessary to wait for the second wash). to achieve a sufficiently developed lather. Generally, when shampoos contain raw materials known to inhibit lather (gelling agents, fats, oils, etc.), the lather generated during the first wash is insufficient. A second wash is then necessary to obtain a better lather (more abundant and more evenly distributed). Surprisingly, and although dehydroxanthan gum is a gelling agent, the compositions according to the invention are effective from the very first wash.

[0011] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to obtain a much denser, creamier foam than usual compositions.

[0012] The invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, comprising - 5 to 25% oil phase, preferably 5 to 10%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, - 75 to 95% aqueous phase, preferably 90 to 95%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises dehydroxanthan gum, and the oily phase cetyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate citrate.

[0013] An emulsion is defined as a heterogeneous mixture of two immiscible liquid substances, one of which is dispersed as small droplets in the other. These are generally two liquids that do not spontaneously mix (immiscible), such as water and oil, but which, through specific operations (agitation, mixing, addition of certain active ingredients), adopt a macroscopically homogeneous but microscopically heterogeneous appearance. One of the substances is dispersed in the second substance as droplets. The mixture remains stable thanks to a third ingredient called an "emulsifier" (the rate or kinetics of the mixture's evolution are virtually zero).

[0014] Preferably, the total sum of the % by mass of the aqueous phase and the oily phase is equal to 100%.

[0015] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises dehydroxanthan gum (INCI) or dehydrated xanthan gum, CAS number 11138-66-2. This is a water-soluble compound found in the aqueous phase of the emulsion. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 1% dehydroxanthan gum, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0016] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises cetyl alcohol (INCI) or n-hexadecanol, CAS number 36653-82-4. This is a fat-soluble compound found in the oil phase of the emulsion. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 1 to 3.5% cetyl alcohol, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably 1.4 to 2.5%.

[0017] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises glyceryl stearate citrate (INCI), CAS number 55840-13-6 / 86418-55-5. This is a fat-soluble compound found in the oil phase of the emulsion. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.5 to 2% of glyceryl stearate citrate, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably 1 to 1.5%.

[0018] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise a fatty alcohol, other than cetyl alcohol. In this application, fatty alcohol means a compound with the molecular formula CnH(2n+2)O, where n is an integer greater than or equal to 14. The fatty alcohol may be selected from C14 to C22 alcohols. Preferably, the fatty alcohol is selected from stearyl alcohol, stearic alcohol, behenic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 1 to 6% fatty alcohol, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0019] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise a surfactant. A surfactant, also known as a surface-active agent or surface-active agent, is a compound that modifies the surface tension between two surfaces. Surfactant compounds are amphiphilic molecules, meaning they have two parts with different polarities: one lipophilic (which attracts fats) is nonpolar, and the other hydrophilic (miscible in water) is polar. They thus allow the solubilization of two immiscible phases by interacting with the nonpolar (i.e., lipophilic, and therefore hydrophobic) phase through its hydrophobic part, while interacting with the polar phase through its hydrophilic part. For example, an anionic surfactant is a surfactant whose hydrophilic part is negatively charged. According to the invention, the surfactant is a foaming hydrophilic surfactant not comprising a sulfate -SO42 function.A surfactant is an ingredient that provides foaming power, allows the rinsing of the emulsion containing the oil phase, and provides the emulsifying properties necessary for product stability.

[0020] Advantageously, the foaming hydrophilic surfactant is chosen from at least one surfactant selected from an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, and a non-ionic surfactant.

[0021] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is chosen from the group comprising sulfonates, phosphoric acid derivatives, phosphates and alkyl phosphates and their derivatives, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, anionic derivatives of plant-derived proteins, amino acid derivatives, carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid salts from saponification, lactic acid derivatives and alkyl polyglucoside derivatives.

[0022] According to the invention, for the anionic surfactant, preferably: - the sulfonates are chosen from the group including sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, sodium C14-17 sec-Alkyl sulfonate and sodium xylene sulfonate; - Phosphates and alkyl phosphates are chosen from the group comprising dicetyl phosphate, C12-15 phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate and C9-15 alkyl phosphate and their mixtures; - the isethionates are chosen from the group including sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl methyl isethionate and sodium Lauroyl methyl Isethionate; - the taurates are chosen from the group including sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium N-lauroyl taurate, sodium N-lauroyl methyl taurate, sodium N-lauroyl N-methyl taurate, sodium methyl oleyl taurate and sodium stearoyl taurate; - the sulfosuccinates are chosen from the group comprising disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium undecylenamido MEA-sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium ricinoleamido MEA-sulfosuccinate, disodium oleamido MIPA-sulfosuccinate and sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate; - the alkyl sulfoacetates are sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and sodium lauroyl methylester sulfonate; - the anionic derivatives of plant-based proteins are chosen from sodium cocoyl apple amino acids (SEPPIC®), sodium lauroyl oat amino acids, sodium lauroyl wheat amino acids and potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids; - amino acid derivatives are chosen from sodium N-lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate (AMISOFT® CS 11), disodium cocoyl glutamate (IMAG®), sodium N-lauroyl aspartate, sodium N-lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl alaninate and sodium N-lauroyl alaninate and sodium N-lauroyl sarcosinate; - carboxylic acids and their salts are chosen from the group including sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate (Plantapon® LGC), laureth-11 carboxylic acid, laureth-5 carboxylic acid, trideceth-7 carboxylic acid and sodium laureth-13 carboxylate; - the fatty acid salts from saponification are chosen from the salts of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid; - Lactic acid derivatives are selected from sodium lauryl lactate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl dilactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium isostearyl lactylate, and sodium cocoyl lactylate; and - Alkyl polyglucoside derivatives are chosen from sodium cocoglucoside tartrate, disodium cocopolyglucose sulfosuccinate, disodium cocopolyglucose citrate and sodium laurylglucoside hydroxypropylsulfonate.

[0023] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant of the emulsion according to the invention is chosen from the group comprising N-alkylamidobétaines, alkylbetaines, ethoxylated alkylbetaines, sultaines, alkylpolyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates, their derivatives, and glycine derivatives.

[0024] According to the invention, for the amphoteric surfactant, preferably: - N-alkylamidobétaines are chosen from the group including cocamidopropyl betaine and lauramidopropyl betaine; - alkylbetaines are chosen from the group including coco betaine and lauryl betaine; - sultaines include cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine; - alkylpolyaminocarboxylates are chosen from the group including sodium Carboxymethyl Tallow Polypropylamine and sodium Carboxymethyl Oleyl Polypropylamine; - Alkylamphoacetates are selected from the group comprising disodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium sunflower seed amphoacetate, and disodium lauroamphoacetate; and - Glycine derivatives include cocoamphopolycarboxyglycinate.

[0025] According to the invention, the non-ionic surfactant is selected from the group comprising glycolipids, alkyl polyglucosides, sucrose and fatty acid esters, oxyalkylated glycerol esters, and glucamide derivatives. Such surfactants have demonstrated particularly desirable foaming properties.

[0026] According to the invention, for the non-ionic surfactant, preferably: - glycolipids are chosen from the group including sophorolipids and rhamnolipids. - Alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) are chosen from the group including decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, and coco glucoside; - oxyalkylated glycerol esters are selected from PEG-7 Glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 Glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl cocoate and PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate; - Glucamide derivatives can be chosen from the group including capryloyl or caproyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide and cocoyl methyl glucamide, myristoyl methyl glucamide.

[0027] Preferably, the surfactant is selected from sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, decyl glucoside, coco-glucoside, lauryl glucoside, glyceryl oleate, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and mixtures thereof.

[0028] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise from 15 to 36% of surfactant, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably 25 to 30%.

[0029] Advantageously, the composition may further comprise a chelating agent. A chelating agent is defined as a compound in a cosmetic substance that has the capacity to bind positive ions to form a stable complex. Chelating agents are typically used to complex heavy metals. That is to say, they generally neutralize them by forming a complex with them, then act as a carrier and remove them. Chelating agents are often used as sequestrants (for example, for calcium ions or limescale) in cosmetic compositions such as soaps, shampoos, or shower gels; this is particularly useful for managing so-called "hard" water.

[0030] The chelating agent can be selected from trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, trisodium dicarboxymethyl alaninate, tetrasodium iminodisuccinate, sodium glucoheptonate, etidronic acid, and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA). It is a water-soluble compound found in the aqueous phase of the emulsion. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.2% to 0.5% of the chelating agent, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0031] Advantageously, the composition may further include an oil of vegetable origin.

[0032] In the context of the invention, "oil" means oily / fatty compounds, the definition of which is generally well known to those skilled in the art, in the technical field of the invention, which are liquid at room temperature. An oil is a liquid immiscible with water, that is to say, when introduced at a concentration of at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is either completely insoluble in water, or soluble to a degree of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of oil introduced into the water. An oil may be volatile or non-volatile. By "non-volatile," we mean an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa). By "volatile," we mean an oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.The oils usable in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are oils of natural origin, preferably of vegetable origin, preferably having a melting point below 20°C.

[0033] Advantageously, the vegetable oil can be chosen from sweet almond, avocado, wheat germ, hazelnut, apricot kernel, castor, sesame, sunflower, rice, copra, macadamia, safflower, jojoba, rapeseed, grapeseed, camellia, argan, cottonseed, borage, rosehip, evening primrose, olive, walnut, babassu, plum, coconut, of chamomile, calendula, peppermint, hemp, lemon, palm, rosemary, sage, shea, soybean, sunflower, flaxseed, camelina, squalane (cane sugar oil), C30-C10 alkanes, ester oils such as isopropyl myristate, cococaprylate caprate, ethylhexyl palmitate, and C8-C10 triglycerides, ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 5 to 25% of the vegetable oil, relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably 5 to 20%.

[0034] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more hydrophilic or lipophilic cosmetic excipients selected from one or more compounds selected from water-miscible solvents, preservatives, perfumes (e.g., a fragrance composition such as flower oil), cosmetic actives, polysaccharides (e.g., inulin, xanthan gum, gellan gum, carrageenan, or hyaluronic acid), colorants, antioxidants, essential oils, etc.

[0035] Lipophilic excipients, when in liquid form, are understood to be a liquid that is not miscible with water, that is to say, when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a rate of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water; and when in solid form, are not soluble in water, that is to say, when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a rate of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water.

[0036] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one colorant.

[0037] In the context of the invention, "mother-of-pearl" means colored particles or elements of any shape, iridescent or not, natural or synthetic, which can be produced in their shell or synthesized. Mother-of-pearl generally exhibits color effects. Mother-of-pearl can be created on various substrates, including mica, synthetic fluorflogopithe, bismuth oxychloride, and borosilicate, and combined with the pigments listed in the preceding paragraph.

[0038] In the context of the invention, "colorant" means coloring substances that are not pigments or pearlescent pigments. For example, it could be a colorant such as those described in Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.

[0039] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a colorant of natural origin. The colorant of natural origin may be chosen from water-soluble coloring plant extracts such as carthamus tinctorius flower extract & maltodextrin (gardenia extract), hydrolyzed jardinia florida extract & maltodextrin, (gardenia extract), anthocyanins & citric acid & maltodextrin (cabbage extract) and fat-soluble plant extracts such as capsicum annuum fruit extract (paprika extract) and curcuma longa root extract & propylene glycol (turmeric extract).

[0040] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one fragrance. "Fragrance" is understood to mean a perfume composition whose primary function is to modify the odor of a product or to impart a fragrance to a product. The perfume composition may be selected from flower oils.

[0041] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

[0042] In the context of this invention, a "cosmetic active ingredient" means a substance or mixture of substances intended to be placed in contact with the superficial parts of the human body (more particularly the epidermis, hair and scalp, lips, etc.) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view exclusively or primarily to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition, or correcting body odors. A cosmetic active ingredient is thus generally an ingredient that acts on the skin to provide it with a real benefit. For example, an active ingredient may be nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, or redensifying.

[0043] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one essential oil. An "essential oil" is defined as an oily liquid concentrated in plant substances, obtained by extraction or distillation of volatile molecules from the original plant. It consists mainly of terpenoids and aromatic molecules. Essential oils derived from different plants therefore possess different properties, depending on their original composition.

[0044] Hydrophilic excipient means a liquid miscible with water, that is to say, when introduced at a rate of at least 0.1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is completely soluble in water, or soluble to a rate of at least 90% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water; and when it is solid, soluble in water, that is to say, soluble at least at a rate of 0.1 g / L.

[0045] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional gelling agent, other than dehydroxanthan gum. The additional gelling agent may be a polysaccharide. The polysaccharide may be selected from gums such as diutan gum, konjac gum, xanthan gum and gellan gum, alginate, glucomannan, chondrus crispus powder, carrageenan, hyaluronic acid (e.g., sodium hyaluronate), starch, sodium carboxymethyl starch, inulin and mixtures thereof.

[0046] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one polyol, preferably a C3-C10 polyol. A polyol is understood to be a hydrocarbon compound comprising at least two hydroxyl groups. The C3-C10 polyol may be linear or branched. The polyol may be selected from glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol (propan-1,2-diol), butylene glycol (butan-1,2-diol), 1,4-butanediol, pentylene glycol (pentan-1,2-diol), 1,5-pentanediol, propane-1,3-diol, methylpropanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, butylethylpropanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,2-decanediol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, and mixtures thereof.

[0047] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one preservative. The at least one preservative may be chosen from among the substances listed in Annex V "Preservatives" of Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of 30 November 2009, and more particularly from among sorbic acid and its salts, salicylic acid and its salts, benzoic acid, its salts and esters, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, phenylpropanol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0048] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one antioxidant. The antioxidant may be selected from hydroxyacetophenone, tocopheryl acetate, hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone, tocopherol, and mixtures thereof. It may be any other substance capable of slowing down or preventing the oxidation of the cosmetic composition.

[0049] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

[0050] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more organic or inorganic salts, one or more organic acids, such as sodium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, sodium hydroxide (pH adjuster), citric acid (pH adjuster), sodium bicarbonate, lactic acid, sodium citrate and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further include vitamins, such as vitamin C, inositol (B7), panthenol (B5), vitamin F (ethyl linoleate), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin A (retinol).

[0052] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of guar gum hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0053] Surprisingly, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention make it possible to obtain, in particular thanks to the combination of dehydroxanthan gum, cetyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate citrate, the following advantages: - obtaining a guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride-free hair emulsion, - obtaining an opaque, thick and creamy texture without blocking the formation of foam, - obtaining a coating of the hair, - soft finish of the cosmetic composition, - stable composition, preferably at least 3 years at room temperature (15-25°C).

[0054] In the present invention, when an interval is given, the bounds are included. For example, for an interval such as "from 1 to 5%", the values ​​1% and 5% are included in the interval.

[0055] In the present invention, unless otherwise stated, all percentages (%) are given as mass percentages, relative to the total mass of the composition, i.e. the aqueous and oily phase.

[0056] For the purposes of this invention, a "natural product" is defined as a product falling within the definition given by ISO 16128: ingredients derived from natural materials are cosmetic ingredients, for a proportion of more than 50% of natural origin, by molecular weight, by renewable carbon content, or by any other appropriate method, which are obtained by defined chemical and / or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying them. It may be a chemical compound or a chemical substance produced by a living organism, i.e., one found in nature. For the purposes of this invention, products such as butters or oils derived from plants or from the hydrogenation of naturally derived oils, preferably vegetable oils, are considered to be natural products.

[0057] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can be in the form of a shampoo, a conditioner, a mask, a hair serum, a scalp protective serum, or a hair and / or scalp scrub composition.

[0058] The invention also includes a shampoo, a conditioner, a mask, a hair serum, a scalp protective serum, or a hair and / or scalp scrub composition comprising a composition according to the invention.

[0059] The invention also relates to the use of the combination of dehydroxanthan gum, cetyl alcohol, and glyceryl stearate citrate in a cosmetic composition, in the form of an emulsion, preferably a shampoo, conditioner, mask, hair serum, scalp protective serum, or a hair and / or scalp scrub composition. Brief description of the figures

[0060] [Fig.1] Fig.1 represents the visual comparison of the composition according to invention 2 and of counterexample CE13.

[0061] [Fig.2] Fig.2 represents the stability study of the counterexample CE13 after one month of storage at the following temperatures, from left to right: 4°C, 25°C, 40°C and 50°C.

[0062] [Fig.3] Fig.3 represents the stability study of the composition according to the invention 2 after two months of storage at the following temperatures, from left to right: 4°C, 25°C, 40°C and 50°C.

[0063] Examples

[0064] The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, in a non-limiting manner.

[0065] Example 1: Composition according to the invention

[0066] General method for obtaining compositions according to the invention and counterexamples:

[0067] In a main beaker, place the desired quantity of water (See tables 2, 3 and 4) under mechanical agitation under deflocculator and heating on a hot plate at 80°C.

[0068] Before the water reaches 80°C, add the desired quantity of dehydroxanthan gum in powder form (see Tables 2, 3 and 4). Leave the mixture under vigorous stirring until complete dispersion.

[0069] When the water has reached 80°C and a gel has formed, add the citric acid, then the preservative, the chelating agent, and the active ingredient to the solution in the desired quantities (see Tables 2, 3, and 4). Check that the compounds are completely dissolved. The compounds are considered dissolved when the contents of the beaker are homogeneous and free of grains.

[0070] In a small bowl, mix the components of the oil phase and heat them on a hot plate at 80°C until the mixture is completely melted. The components of the oil phase include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, C18-C22 alcohol, and vegetable oil in the desired quantities (see Tables 2, 3, and 4).

[0071] Add the oil phase to the contents of the main beaker, maintaining the temperature at 80°C under mechanical stirring with a deflocculator. Emulsify for 10 minutes.

[0072] Next, add the desired amount of sodium cocoy isethionate to the contents of the beaker (see Tables 2, 3, and 4). Continue stirring for 10 to 20 minutes and check that the surfactant is completely dissolved. The surfactant is considered dissolved when the contents of the beaker are homogeneous and free of grains.

[0073] Add the desired amount of methyl cocoyl taurate (See tables 2, 3 and 4).

[0074] Turn off the heating.

[0075] Add successively the desired quantities of surfactants: decylglucoside and cocamidopropylbetaine (See tables 2, 3 and 4).

[0076] Cool the mixture to 45°C.

[0077] When the temperature of the mixture is equal to or less than 45° add the desired amount of perfume (See tables 2, 3 and 4).

[0078] Continue cooling and when the temperature of the mixture is equal to or less than 40°C add the desired quantity of plantasil micro (See tables 2, 3 and 4).

[0079] Cool the mixture to between 30 and 25 °C and stop stirring.

[0080] Examples of compositions and counterexamples are given respectively in Tables 2 and 3 and 4. [Tables 1] Phase NOM INCI NOM TECHNIQUE OU COMMER CIAL Phase aqu euse AQUA EAU PURIFIEE COS GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMO NIUM CHLORIDE GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMO NIUM CHLORIDE00 AQUA & DICAPRYLYL ETHER & DECYL GLUCOSIDE & GLYCER YL OLEATE PLANTASIL MICRO-MBAL COS SODIUM BENZOATE SODIUM BENZOATE CITRIC ACID ACIDE CITRIQUE ANHYDRE CO S INULIN & FRUCTOOLIGOSACC HA RIDES MIX INULINE FOS AGAVE AB Y RF XANTHAN GUM GOMME XANTHANE CLEAR TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMIN E DISUCCINATE TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMIN E DISUCCINATE00 CAESALPINIA SPINOSA GUM GOMME TARA DEHYDROXANTHAN GUM AMAZE XT BRASSICAMIDOPROPYL DIMET HYLAMINE & GLYCERIN PROCONDITION 22 GLYCERIN & CELLULOSE & CE LLULOSE GUM CELLULOSE LIQUIDE HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PH OSPHATE HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PH OSPHATE- AGENAJEL 20.313 SODIUM LAUROYL METHYL ISE THIONATE SODIUM LAUROYL METHYL ISE THIONATE-MBAL COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE F5 0-MBAL COS DECYL GLUCOSIDE DECYLGLUCOSIDE 2000 UP SODIUM METHYE COCOYE TAU RATE SODIUM METHYL COCOYL TAU RATE VANTAGE LAURYL GEUCOSIDE LAURYLGLUCOSIDE SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONAT E SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONAT ESCI SODIUM LAUROYL SARCOSINA TE SODIUM LAUROYL SARCOSINA TE-MBAL COCO-GLUCOSIDE & GLYCERY L OLEATE LAMESOFT PO65 Fat phase STEARYL ALCOHOL STEARYL ALCOHOL-MBAL COS CETYL ALCOHOL CETYL ALCOHOL-MBAL COS GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE E GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE E-MBAL COS CAMELINA SATIVA SEED OIL CAMELINA OIL DESO BRE TAGNE BEHENYL ALCOHOL C18-C22 ALCOHOL COS PARFUM PF FLOWER OIL 4 Table 1: Correspondence of INCI names entered in the following tables and the technical or commercial name of the compounds. [Tables 2] 1 2 Phase NOM INCI Phase aqueuse AQUA 59.08 61.18 GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLO RIDE AQUA & DICAPRYLYL ETHER & DECYL GLU COSIDE & GLYCERYL OLEATE 1.50 1.50 SODIUM BENZOATE 0.50 0.50 CITRIC ACID 0.22 0.22 INULIN & FRUCTOOLIGOSACCHARIDES 0.25 0.25 XANTHAN GUM TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINA TE 0.15 0.15 CAESALPINIA SPINOSA GUM DEHYDROXANTHAN GUM 1.00 1.00 BRASSICAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE & GLYCERIN GLYCERIN & CELLULOSE & CELLULOSE GU M HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE SODIUM LAUROYL METHYL ISETHIONATE COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 7.00 7.00 DECYL GLUCOSIDE 3.00 3.00 SODIUM METHYL COCOYL TAURATE 10.00 10.00 LAURYL GLUCOSIDE SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE 8.00 8.00 SODIUM LAUROYL SARCOSINATE COCO-GLUCOSIDE & GLYCERYL OLEATE Phase grasse STEARYL ALCOHOL 1.40 1.00 CETYL ALCOHOL 2.00 1.50 GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 1.50 1.10 CAMELINA SATIVA SEED OIL 0.40 0.40 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 3.00 2.20 PARFUM 1.00 1.00 100.0 0 100.0 0 Tableau 2 : Compositions selon l’invention [Tables3] CEI CE2 CE3 CE4 CE5 CE6 CE7 CE8 CE9 Pha se NOM INCI Phas e aq ueus e AQUA 67.65 58.38 57.68 51.68 57.98 58.18 59.28 58.48 58. CHLORI DE 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.50 0.60 0.60 AQUA & DICAP RYEU ETHER & DECYE GEUC OSIDE & GEYCE RYE OLEATE 1.50 4.00 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.5. 1.50 1.50 SODIUM BENZO ATE 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 CITRIC ACID 0.15 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.20 20.20. INULIN & FRUC TOOLIGOSACC HARIDES 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 XANTHAN GUM 0.90 1.50 0.50 1.50 0.70 TRISODIUM AND HYEENEDIAMINE 0.150. 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 CAESAEPINIA S PINOSA GUM 0.20 GUM DEHYDROXANT BRASSICAMIDO PROPYE DIMET 2.00 HYLAMINE & G LYCERIN GLYCERIN & CE LLULOSE & CEL LULOSE GUM HYDROXYPROP YL STARCH PH OSPHATE SODIUM LAURO YL METHYL ISE THIONATE COCAMIDOPRO PYL BETAINE 7.50 7.50 7.50 7.50 7.00 6.00 7.00 6.00 6.00 DECYL GLUCOS IDE 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 SODIUM METHY L COCOYL TAU RATE 14.00 14.80 14.80 10.00 9.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 LAURYL GLUCO SIDE 7.00 SODIUM COCOY L ISETHIONATE 8.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 8.00 6.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 SODIUM LAURO YL SARCOSINA TE 7.00 COCO-GLUCOSI DE & GLYCERY L OLEATE 2.00 Phas e hui STEARYL ALCO HOL 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.00 1.40 1.40 1.40 leuse CETYL ALCOHO L 3.50 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 1.50 2.00 2.00 2.00 GLYCERYL STE ARATE CITRAT E 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.10 1.50 1.50 1.50 CAMELINA SATI VA SEED OIL 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 BEHENYL ALCO HOL 5.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 2.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 PARFUM 0.70 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 100.0 00 100.0 00 100.0 00 100.0 00 100.0 00 100.0 00 100.0 00 100.0 00 100.0 00 Tableau 3 : Composition de contre-exemples [Tableaux4] CE10 CE11 CE12 CE13 Phase NOM INCI Phase aq ueuse AQUA 66.75 66.55 57.28 61.18 GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLT RIMONIUM CHLORIDE 0.50 0.50 0.30 1.00 AQUA & DICAPRYEYE ETH ER & DECYE GEUCOSIDE & GEYCERYE OEEATE 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 SODIUM BENZOATE 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 CITRIC ACID 0.25 0.25 0.22 0.22 INULIN & FRUCTOOLIGOS ACCHARIDES 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 XANTHAN GUM 0.20 TRISODIUM ETHYEENEDIA MINE DISUCCINATE 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 CAESALPINIA SPINOSA GU M DEHYDROXANTHAN GUM BRASSICAMIDOPROPYL DI METHYEAMINE & GLYCER IN GLYCERIN & CELLULOSE & CELLULOSE GUM 3.00 HYDROXYPROPYL STARC H PHOSPHATE 1.50 SODIUM LAUROYL METHY L ISETHIONATE 8.00 7.00 COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAI NE 6.00 6.00 6.00 7.00 DECYL GLUCOSIDE 3.00 3.00 SODIUM METHYL COCOYL TAURATE 8.00 8.00 10.00 10.00 LAURYL GLUCOSIDE SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIO NATE 8.00 8.00 SODIUM LAUROYL SARCO SINATE 4.00 COCO-GLUCOSIDE & GLYC ERYL OLEATE 2.00 Phase gr asse STEARYL ALCOHOL 1.40 1.40 1.00 CETYL ALCOHOL 1.00 2.00 2.00 1.50 GLYCERYL STEARATE CIT RATE 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.10 CAMELINA SATIVA SEED O IL 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 3.00 2.20 PARFUM 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 100.000 100.000 100.000 100.000 Tableau 4 : Composition de contre-exemples

[0081] The counterexamples in Tables 3 and 4 are not considered compliant for at least one of the following reasons: the viscosity is too low, causing instability in the composition (low viscosity is defined as a viscosity less than 50,000 cPs at day 1 according to Table 5), the texture does not correspond to the desired cream texture, or foam formation is too difficult (requiring the addition of water or a second, or even a third wash to obtain sufficient foam), the foam obtained is too thin, the foam obtained lacks creaminess, the foam obtained does not spread well, the foam obtained breaks too quickly in use.

[0082] Example 2: Stability test

[0083] Stability measurement protocol:

[0084] Monitoring of stability at defined storage temperatures: -20°C, 4°C, 25°C, 40°C and 50°C

[0085] With defined reading times: 8 days, 15 days, 1 month, 2 months, 3 months, 6 months and 1 year according to Table 5: [Tables 5] Temperature D0 J1 J8 J15 Ml M2 M3 M6 12M -20°C AC O AC O 4°C AC O AC O AC O AC O AC O AC O AC O 25 °C (Ambient temperature) AC O AC O AC O AC O AC O AC O AC O AC O AC O 40°C AC O AC O AC O AC O AC O 50°C AC O AC O AC O Table 5: Stability evaluation schedule for compositions 1, 2, CE8 and CE13 according to different reading times at defined storage temperatures. With ACO = Evaluation of Appearance, Color, Odor where Appearance is considered compliant if there is no phase shift, release, or phase separation; Color is evaluated but will not necessarily be considered non-compliant depending on its evolution; a color is considered compliant if, during the storage period, there is no color change; a color change due to the use of certain compounds (for example, vanillin, which can cause compositions to turn pink) may be considered compliant; Odor is characterized according to an olfactory scale (0: no drift, 1: very slightly modified, 2: slightly modified, 3: modified / limit of acceptability, 4: strongly modified / unacceptable).

[0086] The results of the ACO tests for the compositions tested are given in Tables 6 to 9. [Tableauxô] Temperature e JO J1 J8 J15 Ml M2 Appearance -20 °C Compliant Compliant 4°C Compliant Compliant Compliant 25° C Thick cream gel Thick cream gel Heterogeneous formula: presence of lumps and rigid areas Heterogeneous formula: presence of lumps and rigid areas Heterogeneous formula: presence of lumps and rigid areas Heterogeneous formula: presence of lumps and rigid areas 40° C Compliant Compliant Compliant 50° C Compliant Compliant Smoother Color -20 °C Compliant Compliant 4°C Compliant Compliant Compliant 25° C White White Compliant Compliant Compliant Compliant 40° C Very slightly yellowed Very slightly pinkish Slightly pinkish pinkish 50° C Slightly pinkish-orange odor -20°C 0 0 4°C Control Control Control Control Control 25°C Characteristic Characteristic 0 0 0 0 40°C 0 0 0 0 50°C 0 0 / 1: slight loss of intensity and basic odor 1: surfactant odor Table 6: Summary of ACO test results for the CE8 counterexample [Tables?] Temperature JO D1 D8 D15 Ml M2 Appearance -20°C Compliant 4°C Compliant Compliant Compliant 25°C Gel cream Gel cream Not compliant Not compliant Not compliant 40°C Slight water droplet of 1 mm, thicker Phase shift Phase shift 50°C Very slight water droplet of uneven height, thicker, cracked appearance during insertion Phase shift Color -20°C Compliant 4°C Compliant Compliant Compliant 25°C White White Compliant Very slightly pink Very slightly pink 40°C Very slightly yellowed Slightly pink Slightly pink 50°C Slightly pink Slightly pink Odor 20°C 0 4°C Control Control Control 25°C Characteristic Characteristic 0 0 0 40°C 0 0 0 50°C 0 0 Table 7: Summary of ACO test results for the CE13 counterexample [Tables8] Temperature D0 J1 J8 J15 Ml M2 M3 Appearance -20°C Compliant Compliant 4°C Compliant Compliant Compliant Compliant Compliant Compliant 25°C Thick cream gel Thick cream gel Compliant Compliant Compliant Compliant Compliant Compliant 40°C Compliant Compliant Compliant Compliant Compliant 50°C Compliant Compliant Compliant Color -20°C Compliant Compliant 4°C Compliant Compliant Compliant Compliant Compliant 25°C White White Compliant Compliant Compliant Very slightly pink A little pink 40° C Very slightly yellowed Very slightly pink Slightly pink A little pink pink 50° C Slightly pink A little pink A little pink Odor -20°C 4°C Control Control Control Control Control Control 25°C Characteristic Characteristic 0 0 0 0 0 40°C 0 0 1 slight surfactant odor 1 slight superficial odor creates 1 slight loss of intensity and 1 slight acidic odor 50°C 0 0 1 slight surfactant odor Table 8: Summary of ACO test results for the composition according to invention 1 [Tableaux9] Temperature D0 D1 D8 D15 Ml M2 M3 M6 12M Aspe and -2 0° C Conform Conform 4° C Conform Conform Conform Conform Conform Conform Conform Conform 25 °C Thick cream gel Thick cream gel Conform Conform Conform Conform Conform Conform Conform Conform Conform Conform Conform 40 °C Conform Conform Conform Conform Conform Conform 50 °C Conform Conform Conform Conform Conform Color -20°C Conforms Conforms 4°C Conforms Conforms Conforms Conforms Conforms Conforms 25°C White White Conforms Conforms Very slightly beige Very slightly pink Very slightly pink Very slightly pink 40°C Very slightly beige Very slightly beige Slightly pink Slightly pink Slightly pink 50°C Slightly beige Slightly pink Slightly pink Odor -20°C 0 0 4°C Control Control Control Control Control Control Control 25°C Characteristic Characteristic 0 0 0 0 0 40 °C 0 0 0 0 1 slight odor of surfactant 50 °C 0 0 / 1 Very slight loss of intensity 1 Table 9: Summary of ACO test results for composition according to invention 2. Compositions according to invention 1 and 2 passed the ACO tests; counterexamples CE8 and CE13 did not validate these tests.

[0087] Example 3: Visual tests

[0088] To demonstrate the advantage of the invention over a composition comprising guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, the composition according to invention 2 was compared to counterexample CE 13, the only difference between the two being the replacement of dehydroxanthan gum by guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0089] Counterexample CE 13 is too fluid and does not have the viscosity of a cream shampoo, whereas the composition according to invention 2 allows a cream texture to be maintained (see [Fig. 1]).

[0090] Regarding the stability of the compositions, instability is observed from the eighth day onwards in the counterexample CE13 (see [Fig.2]), which is characterized by phase separation; this separation is still observable after one month. This is absent for the composition according to the invention 2, which therefore remains stable for 2 months (see [Fig.3]).

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, comprising: - 5 to 25% of oil phase, preferably 5 to 10%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, - 75 to 95% of aqueous phase, preferably 90 to 95% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises dehydroxanthan gum, and the oil phase cetyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate citrate.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase comprises 0.5 to 1% dehydroxanthan gum, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the oily phase comprises 1 to 3.5% cetyl alcohol, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily phase comprises 0.5 to 2% glyceryl stearate citrate, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a fatty alcohol selected from C14 to C22 alcohols and other than cetyl alcohol, preferably from stearyl alcohol, stearic alcohol, behenic alcohol, arachidic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a surfactant, said surfactant being selected from hydrophilic foaming surfactants not comprising a sulfate -SO42 function.

7. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the aqueous phase comprises 15 to 36% surfactant, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

8. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a chelating agent, preferably selected from trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, trisodium dicarboxymethyl alaninate, tetrasodium iminodisuccinate, sodium glucoheptonate, etidronic acid and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid.

9. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a vegetable oil, preferably selected from sweet almond, avocado, wheat germ, hazelnut, apricot kernel, castor, sesame, sunflower, rice, coconut, macadamia, safflower, jojoba, rapeseed, grapeseed, camellia, argan, cottonseed, borage, rosehip, evening primrose, olive, walnut, babassu, plum, coconut, chamomile, calendula, peppermint, hemp, lemon, palm, rosemary, sage, shea, soybean, sunflower, linseed, camelina, squalane, C30-C1O alkanes, and ester oils such as myristate isopropyl, cococaprylate caprate, ethylhexyl palmitate, and C8-C10 triglyceride, ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether and their mixtures.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a cosmetic excipient such as a preservative, a perfume composition, a cosmetic active, or a polysaccharide.

11. Shampoo, conditioner, mask, hair serum, scalp protective serum, or hair and / or scalp scrub composition comprising a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.

12. Use of the combination of dehydroxanthan gum, cetyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate citrate in a cosmetic composition, in the form of an emulsion, preferably a shampoo, conditioner, mask, hair serum, scalp protective serum, or hair and / or scalp scrub composition.

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