Polyol ester mixtures for use as petrolatum substitutes

Abstract

A polyol ester mixture as a substitute for petrolatum, obtainable by esterification of a) 0.8-1.2 mol of glycerin, b) 0.5-0.7 mol of sebacic acid, and c) 1.0-1.4 mol of a mixture of monocarboxylic fatty acids having a chain length of 8-24 carbon atoms, wherein the fatty acid mixture c) contains up to 30 wt. % of linear C18 fatty acids, up to 3 wt. % of fatty acids less than C12, and up to 3 wt. % of fatty acids greater than C18, based on the total weight of the monocarboxylic fatty acids.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to polyol ester mixtures forming semi-solid compositions suitable as a substitute for petrolatum, their use in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations and cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing these complex esters. [Background technology]

[0002] Petrolatum, also called petrolatum, is an ointment base that is often used in many cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical applications. It is widely applied in leave-on and rinse-off preparations as the main ingredient in creams and ointments and can also be used in shower baths, for example.

[0003] Petrolatum is a colorless to amber gelatinous semi-solid hydrocarbon gel consisting of two phases: a 70-90% liquid phase of n-paraffins and isoparaffins and olefinic hydrocarbons such as cetene, heptadecene and octadecene, and a 10-30% solid phase containing a microcrystalline fraction that is mainly isoparaffins and a crystalline fraction of n-paraffins. The characteristic rheological behavior of petrolatum and its melting profile are due to the three-dimensional framework of different paraffins that make up the crystalline, microcrystalline and liquid domains.

[0004] When petrolatum is applied topically to the body, especially on the skin where the temperature is about 31°C, it creates an occlusive film that minimizes water loss from the tissues beneath the body's surface to the environment. Water is thus stored in the stratum corneum.

[0005] Naturally obtained petrolatum is a mixture of n-paraffins, isoparaffins and hydroaromatic hydrocarbons produced in the residues of petroleum refining and refined by treatment with concentrated sulfuric acid and bleaching earth and / or activated carbon. Different grades of petrolatum are produced depending on the type of refining. On the other hand, synthetically produced petrolatum exists as well, obtained by dissolving paraffin and ceresin in liquid paraffin. Being a petroleum product, petrolatum is not a "renewable raw material" and is undesirable for environmental reasons. Petroleum products usually contain mineral aromatic hydrocarbons (MOAH) as impurities, which are known to be carcinogenic. In addition, paraffins are known to accumulate in the liver, lymph nodes and kidneys, depending on the chain length. It has been discussed many times how mineral oil, which is difficult to decompose, leads to accumulation in the body and closes the pores of the skin, thereby preventing the skin from breathing or promoting the development of acne. Lip care sticks containing mineral oil have therefore already been criticized.

[0006] It has therefore already been a long-standing goal to develop products that are alternatives to petrolatum but which are made from renewable raw materials and are biodegradable, and in terms of properties they closely match those of petrolatum.

[0007] EP 2779991 A1 describes a mixture of beeswax in shea butter. With shea butter, which has a melting range of 34-46° C., the resulting composition needs to be applied by vigorous rubbing so that it melts at a skin temperature of 31° C. Furthermore, beeswax and shea butter are natural products and therefore cannot be produced in large quantities in a short period of time, resulting in natural differences in their physical properties.

[0008] EP 2011483 A1 discloses a mixture of 60% to 98% by weight of medium chain triglycerides (MCT) and 2% to 40% by weight of long chain triglycerides (LCT) as a substitute for petrolatum, but this still requires the incorporation of wax to form a water-insoluble layer that is sufficiently solid and mechanically stable at room temperature.

[0009] In US Patent No. 7,037,439, a carrier with similar properties to petrolatum is prepared by suspending ultrafine particles of waxy solids homogeneously dispersed in naturally occurring vegetable oils to form a homogeneous colloidal solution.However, a difficult two-step process is required to obtain each ointment base with the necessary petrolatum-like properties.In addition, the solid waxy particles melt at high temperatures, and therefore the sensory properties when melted on the skin are different from those of petrolatum.

[0010] EP 2814453 A1 discloses a composition obtainable by condensation reaction of a) 25-90% by weight of unbranched fatty alcohols having a chain length of 12-18 carbon atoms, b) 5-50% by weight of isostearyl alcohol, c) 0-35% by weight of fatty alcohols having a chain length of 20 and / or 22 carbon atoms, and d) 0-25% by weight of fatty alcohols having 8 and / or 10 carbon atoms, the composition having a melting range of -25°C to +70°C measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Besides the expensive raw materials, these ethers are not easily biodegradable.

[0011] EP 2814800A1 discloses a Guerbet alcohol mixture obtainable by reacting a) 55-95% by weight of cetylstearyl alcohol, b) 5-45% by weight of an unbranched saturated fatty alcohol having the following chain distribution: 48-58% C12, 18-24% C14, 8-12% C16, 11-15% C18, and c) optionally 5% by weight of an aliphatic diol having at least 3 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the mixture has a melting range of -20°C to +70°C as measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), the width of the melting range being at least inclusive of 30°C, and the maximum value of the melting range being 35±15°C, and the starting alcohols (a) to (c) are converted in the Guerbet reaction with a maximum conversion of 60-80%.

[0012] These complex ethers have a wide melting range and a maximum melting profile above 35° C. and have been offered as alternatives to petrolatum. However, while the sensory properties and characteristics of an ointment application depend on the rheological properties, they also depend on the melting properties of the composition.

[0013] Although the Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) profiles of these alternative compositions are similar to petrolatum, their sensory properties upon topical application are completely different due to the different rheological properties at skin temperature. Since the temperature of the skin is about 31° C., another objective of the present invention was to transition from solid-like properties to more liquid-like properties at skin temperature, improving the sensory characteristics during and after topical application.

[0014] Several years ago, complex esters obtained by reacting polyols with di- and mono-acids were developed as ointment bases for use in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields.

[0015] According to WO 06 / 004911, a polyol polyester polymer is prepared comprising the reaction product of at least one polyfunctional alcohol having 2-10 carbon atoms, at least one polyfunctional carboxylic acid, and at least one monofunctional carboxylic acid, where the polyfunctional carboxylic acid contains 1 to about 36 carbon atoms and the monofunctional carboxylic acid contains about 4 to 24 carbon atoms, as a substitute for castor oil, which has the same viscosity and polarity as castor oil and is therefore not suitable as an ointment base to replace petrolatum.

[0016] Similar polyol esters are disclosed in EP 1 962 790 A1 in the form of polyester oils obtainable by reaction of C4-C10 dicarboxylic acids, polyols and C16-C30 (especially C20-C24) monocarboxylic fatty acids. The resulting ester mixtures are structuring agents and can be used to provide structure, especially thickening and / or gelling oils of a wide range of polarities. To be suitable as a structuring agent for oils, especially castor oil, the monocarboxylic acid was preferably behenic acid, so that the melting behavior and rheological properties of the polyester oils were very different from petrolatum.

[0017] Similar polyol ester mixtures, also used as structurants and gelling agents, are disclosed in EP 2048178 A1. This esterification reaction product having a hydroxyl value can be obtained by subjecting component A selected from the group consisting of glycerin, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, diglycerin, and decaglycerin, component B selected from the group consisting of eicosane diacid, octadecanedioic acid, and sebacic acid, component C selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, and behenic acid, and component D selected from isooctyl acid or isostearic acid to an esterification reaction using an acid catalyst or a metal catalyst at 160 to 240°C for 5 to 30 hours under an inert gas flow while removing water generated from the reaction, and the blending ratios of each component during the esterification reaction are such that component A:component B=1.0 mol:0.10 to 0.20 mol, component A:component C=1.0 mol:1.0 to 7.5 mol, and component A:component D=1.0 mol:0.2 to 2.3 mol.

[0018] The disclosed polymers of EP 1962790 A1 form solid waxy compositions used as structurants for oils, while similar esters made from fatty acids, glycerin and sebacic acid (offered under the name LexFilm™ Sun Natural MB (Inolex)) are pourable viscous fluids. Capryloyl glycerin / sebacic acid copolymers have been adapted for use as SPF-enhancing, water-resistant film-forming polymers for sun care applications, and have been optimized for compatibility with organic and inorganic UV filters by carefully optimizing the esterification conditions and the distribution of carboxylic fatty acids.

[0019] The same ingredients for producing polyol ester mixtures are used in JP 2000-204060. The object of this invention was a substitute for petrolatum soluble in castor oil. This was realized by an esterification product of (1) 1 mol of glycerin, (2) 1 mol of one or more fatty acids selected from C8-28 linear fatty acids, branched fatty acids, unsaturated fatty acids and hydroxy fatty acids, and (3) 2 mol of linear or branched dibasic acids, the acid value of which is at least 50 mg KOH / g, characterized in that the esterification product is produced in a two-stage reaction in which (1) and (2) are reacted, and (3) is further reacted until the acid value reaches at least 50 mg KOH / g, so that the resulting product contains a moderate amount of free fatty acids. It was stated that the molar ratio of glycerol to monocarboxylic fatty acids to dicarboxylic fatty acids cannot be obtained outside the range of 1:1:2. A complex two-stage process was required to achieve the desired properties. This product should be soluble in castor oil, so residual acid groups are necessary to reach sufficient solubility in castor oil, but the large number of acid groups brings about disadvantages in terms of possible irritation in topical compositions.If some of the residual free fatty acids are generated from short-chain fatty acids, the composition containing these esters may have unpleasant odor.In addition, this manufacturing method is time- and cost-intensive, since it needs to carry out two reactions separately. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0020] There remains a need for biodegradable, hydrophobic ointment bases that have similar properties to petrolatum, especially in terms of consistency, rheology, spreadability, skin protective properties, physical stability, transparency, and tolerance with other ointment ingredients, but with reduced amounts of irritant by-products and improved organoleptic properties. These ointment bases should be available through cost-effective and environmentally responsible manufacturing processes.

[0021] Compositions that melt at skin temperature are easy to apply and provide a favorable sensory impression. Due to the application sites (most often the face and hands), there is an increasing demand for sensory properties, in particular a light feel and a less sticky and waxy feel during application. [Means for solving the problem]

[0022] These objectives are: a) 0.8 to 1.2 mol of glycerol, b) 0.5 to 0.7 mol of sebacic acid; c) 1.0 to 1.4 mol of a mixture of monocarboxylic fatty acids having a chain length of 8 to 24 carbon atoms. The problem is solved by a polyol ester obtainable by the esterification reaction of the above, characterized in that the fatty acid mixture contains up to 30% by weight of linear C18 fatty acids, up to 3% by weight of fatty acids below C12 and up to 3% by weight of fatty acids above C18, based on the total weight of the monocarboxylic fatty acids. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0023] The polyol esters according to the invention are oligoesters which have similar application properties to petrolatum but with improved functionality and which can be obtained by a simple one-pot preparation process.

[0024] Surprisingly, the selected molar ratio and specific fatty acid distribution result in polyol ester mixtures with improved sensory properties in terms of stickiness, light feel and waxiness during application. The sensory properties and improved distribution behavior are mainly due to the rheological properties of the composition during melting. These can be characterized by oscillatory rheology during temperature ramping. Measurement of viscoelastic properties over a range of temperatures is a very sensitive technique to measure the transition temperature of a material. Under a temperature gradient, a linear heating rate is applied. Typical heating rates are on the order of 1-5°C / min. The response of the material is monitored at one or more frequencies at a certain amplitude within the linear viscoelastic modulus (LVR).

[0025] Prior art documents often disclose the use of differential scanning technique (DSC), a measurement to prove the similarity to petrolatum by adapting the melting profile. However, DSC measurements (of the polyol esters of the present invention compared to the compositions of the prior art) show heat flow profiles that cannot be correlated with the melting behavior during application. Although the ester compositions are still solid ointment-like substances at 21-25°C (approximately room temperature), the DSC profile already shows an increase in heat flow starting at about 0°C (Figure 1) and reaching a maximum at about 10°C (Figure 1), which is interpreted as the maximum melting temperature.

[0026] Similar to DSC investigations, oscillatory rheology provides the temperature-dependent properties of a sample (usually a polymer). Oscillatory rheology is a method for characterizing elastic solids (e.g., polymers), providing a characteristic profile of the material in response to mechanical stress as the temperature increases. An important parameter obtained from these measurements is the loss tangent (also tan delta, and therefore unitless), which is a measure of the damping of the material at a given temperature: a loss tangent less than 1 indicates that the material has more solid-like properties, while a loss tangent greater than 1 refers to more liquid-like behavior. Thus, a rise in the loss tangent greater than 1 during a temperature sweep indicates a gradual change of the material from a predominantly solid to a predominantly liquid state, while a loss tangent of 1 can be said to indicate balanced viscoelastic material properties.

[0027] This technique is more suitable for simulating the friction on the skin during topical application, allowing the polymer properties to be better characterized in light of their application characteristics.

[0028] Starting the evaluation below room temperature (25° C.±1° C.), for example at 15° C., and determining the rheological changes at increasing temperatures up to 50° C., it is possible to draw conclusions about the behavior of the oligomer at a skin temperature of 31° C.±3° C. In the case of the polyol ester of the invention, the loss tangent was found to be 1 at about 31° C., and therefore transitions from solid-based to liquid-based at skin temperature (see FIG. 2). When stored at room temperature and without mechanical stress, the polyester behaves like petrolatum, but when the composition is applied topically, it spreads more easily and the organoleptic sensation is improved.

[0029] It is not possible to define the exact molecular structure of a polyol ester mixture because the hydroxyl groups of the polyol and the acid groups of the dibasic and monocarboxylic acids can react in multiple ways to form oligomers.

[0030] Therefore, the ester mixture is defined by the ratio of the raw materials. The molar ratio of glycerin to sebacic acid to monocarboxylic fatty acid is 0.8-1.2 glycerol to 0.5-0.7 sebacic acid to 1.0-1.4 monocarboxylic fatty acid, preferably 0.9-1.1 glycerol to 0.5-0.7 sebacic acid to 1.0-1.3 monocarboxylic fatty acid, and most preferably 1 to 0.6 to 1.2. Therefore, the preferred polyol ester mixture is a) 0.9 to 1.1 mol of glycerol, b) 0.5 to 0.7 mol of sebacic acid; c) 1.1 to 1.3 mol of a mixture of monocarboxylic fatty acids having a chain length of 8 to 24 carbon atoms. % of linear C18 fatty acids, up to 30% by weight of fatty acids below C12 and up to 3% by weight of fatty acids above C18, based on the total weight of monocarboxylic fatty acids.

[0031] Most preferably, the polyol ester mixture is obtainable by esterification reaction of a) 1 mol of glycerin, b) 0.6 mol of sebacic acid, and c) 1.2 mol of a mixture of monocarboxylic fatty acids having a chain length of 8 to 24 carbon atoms, characterized in that the fatty acid mixture c) contains up to 30% by weight of linear C18 fatty acids, up to 3% by weight of fatty acids below C12 and up to 3% by weight of fatty acids above C18, based on the total weight of the monocarboxylic fatty acids.

[0032] The amount of free hydroxyl groups, defined by the hydroxyl number (HV), influences the compatibility with further ingredients in the cosmetic composition and the organoleptic properties due to the different hydrophilicity of the ester mixture.

[0033] The polyol ester mixtures of the present invention are characterized by an acid number of less than 5 mg KOH / g, preferably less than 3 mg KOH / g, more preferably less than 2 mg KOH / g, which can be achieved by selecting specific molar ratios and carrying out the esterification reaction to completion so that few free acid groups remain in the product after the esterification reaction.

[0034] Distribution of monocarboxylic fatty acids Most decisive for the sensory properties, the melting behavior and the rheological properties is the choice of the fatty acid distribution. The amount of the different fatty acids is determined by gas chromatography (Fatty acids according to ISO 5508 / 5509, ISO 5508:1990 Animal and vegetable fats and oils -- Analysis of methyl esters of fatty acids by gas chromatography; ISO 5509:2000 Animal and vegetable fats and oils -- Preparation of methyl esters of fatty acids).

[0035] The fatty acid mixture c) comprises up to 30% by weight of linear C18 fatty acids, up to 3% by weight of fatty acids below C12 and up to 3% by weight of fatty acids above C18, all weight percentages being based on the sum of monocarboxylic fatty acids in the reaction mixture.

[0036] The abbreviation "wt. %" means "percent by weight" and is synonymous with "wt. %." According to the present invention, unless otherwise specified, all weight percentages refer to the weight percentage of active material.

[0037] Preferably, c) has the following distribution: 23-33% by weight of linear C18 fatty acids; 20-28% by weight of linear C16 fatty acids; 10 to 18% by weight of a linear C14 fatty acid, and 30-40% by weight of linear C12 fatty acids provided that the fatty acid mixture contains up to 3 wt. % fatty acids below C12 and up to 3 wt. % fatty acids above C18, all weight percentages being based on the total monocarboxylic fatty acids in the reaction mixture.

[0038] More preferably, c) has the following distribution: 25-29% by weight of linear C18 fatty acids; 22-26% by weight of linear C16 fatty acids; 12 to 16% by weight of linear C14 fatty acids, and 34-39% by weight of linear C12 fatty acids provided that the fatty acid mixture contains up to 3 wt. % fatty acids below C12 and up to 3 wt. % fatty acids above C18, all weight percentages being based on the total monocarboxylic fatty acids in the reaction mixture.

[0039] Characterization of polyol ester blends

[0040] [Table 1]

[0041] Melting range by DSC For differential scanning calorimetry (Table 1a and b) a Heat Flow DSC Q100 from TA Instruments (Waters GmbH) was used.

[0042] For each measurement, 5-10 milligrams of sample material were weighed into small aluminum pans and cold sealed. These pans were subjected to a temperature gradient from -80°C to +100°C at a heating rate of 5 K / min and the heat flow was analyzed. The results were measured reproducibly.

[0043] DSC - Profile The present invention provides a polyol ester mixture having a melting range of -25°C to +60°C, preferably -15°C to +50°C, more preferably -10°C to +40°C, including a melting range width of at least 30°C, and a maximum of heat flow (W g-1) detected at 10±15°C, more preferably 10±10°C, most preferably 10±5°C, as measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).

[0044] The product properties of the polyol ester mixture were adjusted through optimizing the fatty acid composition, selecting the fatty acid distribution and carrying out the esterification reaction, which means that when heated without applying stress, the mixture is equivalent to petrolatum, but has improved application properties and a similar melting range.

[0045] As a result of variations in the composition of the petrolatum, in particular in the proportion of different crystalline regions, the values ​​ascertained using the exact method of DSC vary. This means that the melting ranges ascertained for the polyol ester mixtures according to the invention are also within the temperature range of -25°C to +70°C, preferably -22°C to +60°C, particularly preferably -20°C to +55°C.

[0046] In this regard, the melting range need not span the entire width, but should encompass at least a 30°C range within the temperature range of -50°C to +50°C.

[0047] Rheological characterization Due to the viscoelastic nature of polymers, the properties of these compounds are strongly dependent on temperature and applied force. Viscoelasticity is a mix between a purely elastic solid, where the deformation is proportional to the applied force according to Hooke's law, and a viscous liquid, where the rate of deformation is proportional to the applied force, in agreement with Newton's law. Polymers behave more elastically in response to a rapidly applied force and more viscously when the force is applied slowly.

[0048] Usually, the viscoelastic properties of polymers are analyzed by rheology. In this study, a rheometer in parallel plate configuration was used in oscillatory mode. The polyol ester mixture (or petrolatum) was placed on the plates of the rheometer. The torque and angular displacement are monitored at constant oscillation frequency and angular displacement during temperature increase. The measurements of the rheological properties (especially for determining the loss tangent) were performed using a TA Instruments rheometer ARG2_10H4440 (geometry: cross-hatch - 40 mm parallel plates, steel Peltier plate - 104445; measurement conditions: 15-50 °C; 1 K / min; strain 0.1%; frequency 1 Hz). From the oscillatory rheology experiments, the complex dynamic shear modulus (G*), shear storage modulus (G'), shear loss modulus (G'') and loss tangent (tan δ) (δ = phase angle, shift between stress and strain) are obtained.

[0049] The loss tangent is calculated according to Equation I: Tan δ=G″ / G′ Equation I It is calculated according to:

[0050] A loss tangent less than 1 characterizes the material's elastic-dominated behavior, whereas a loss tangent greater than 1 indicates that the material is viscous-dominated; these properties change with increasing temperature. In addition, the loss tangent is a sensitive indicator of crosslinking; polymer chain entanglements act as temporary and relatively weak crosslinks, and damping decreases with increasing degree of crosslinking.

[0051] Samples of pure petrolatum and two polyol ester blends with different fatty acid distributions were investigated (see FIG. 1). Surprisingly, the loss tangent of the polyol ester blend of the present invention was found to be about 31° C. (see FIG. 1). Thus, at skin temperature, the elastic and viscous properties of the polymer of the present invention were uniformly balanced.

[0052] The polyol ester mixture according to the invention has a tan delta of 1 at 31±5°C, preferably at 31±3°C, most preferably at 31±2°C, as determined by oscillatory rheology using a TA Instruments rheometer ARG2_10H4440 (geometry: crosshatch - 40 mm parallel plates, steel Peltier plate - 104445; measurement conditions: 15-50°C; 1 K / min; strain 0.1%; frequency 1 Hz).

[0053] Preparation of polyol ester mixture The polyol ester mixture of the present invention can be prepared by a typical conventional esterification in a simple one-step direct reaction, where glycerin, sebacic acid and a monoacid mixture are charged into a reaction vessel and reacted at high temperature with the removal of reaction water. Therefore, another embodiment of the present invention is to react the glycerin, sebacic acid and monoacid mixture at a temperature of 180°C to 250°C without the presence of a catalyst (or the addition of a solvent) with the removal of reaction water through a condenser under vacuum until the acid number is less than 5 mg KOH / g, preferably less than 3 mg KOH / g, more preferably less than 2 mg KOH / g. a) 0.8 to 1.2 mol of glycerin, b) 0.5 to 0.7 mol of sebacic acid, and c) 1.0 to 1.4 mol of C8 to C24 monocarboxylic fatty acid % of linear C18 fatty acids, up to 3% by weight of fatty acids less than C12 and up to 3% by weight of fatty acids greater than C18, based on the total weight of monocarboxylic fatty acids.

[0054] The high reaction temperature selected is 180 to 250° C., preferably 200 to 240° C., more preferably 210 to 230° C. The reaction is carried out under vacuum to remove the reaction water.

[0055] Surprisingly, there is no need to add any catalyst or any additional solvent to the starting materials, so the preparation is completed by simply adding reactants a), b) and c) to the reaction vessel. Glycerol (component a)) acts as a dispersion medium at the beginning of the reaction, but cannot be considered a solvent and is one of the reaction components.

[0056] The production process is particularly environmentally friendly since no catalysts, such as Lewis and Bronsted acids, such as tin oxide, tin oxalate, sulfonic acid, methanesulfonic acid, trifluoromethanesulfonic acid, phosphoric acid or any alkali or alkaline earth metal alkoxides are used.

[0057] Another embodiment of the present invention is a process for the preparation of 180-250° C., preferably 200-240° C., without the presence of a catalyst and without the addition of a solvent to the starting materials a), b) and c), with removal of the reaction water through a condenser under vacuum, until the acid number is less than 5 mg KOH / g, preferably less than 3 mg KOH / g, more preferably less than 2 mg KOH / g. a) 0.8 to 1.2 mol of glycerin, b) 0.5 to 0.7 mol of sebacic acid, and c) 1.0 to 1.4 mol of C8 to C24 monocarboxylic fatty acid % of linear C18 fatty acids, up to 3% by weight of fatty acids below C12 and up to 3% by weight of fatty acids above C18, based on the total weight of monocarboxylic fatty acids.

[0058] Use of polyol ester The polyol ester mixture can be used to replace petrolatum in cosmetic, personal care or pharmaceutical preparations due to its physical, chemical and especially rheological properties. Compared to petrolatum, the polyol ester mixture of the present invention can be used as a pure ointment base without the addition of further emollients, oils or in combination with other ingredients.

[0059] Cosmetic preparations The polyol ester mixtures according to the invention are suitable as bases in pharmaceutical preparations for topical application and in cosmetic compositions for body care and cleaning, in personal care, skin care and hair care compositions, such as body oils, baby oils, body milks, creams, lotions, spray-type emulsions, sunscreen compositions and antiperspirants, etc. They can also be used in surfactant-containing preparations, such as liquid and bar soaps, foam baths and shower baths, hair shampoos and hair rinses, etc. They can also be used as care components on tissues, papers, wipes, nonwoven products, sponges, puffs, bandages and dressings, which are widely used in the hygiene and care sector (wet tissues for infant hygiene and baby care, wipes for cleaning dirt, wipes for cleaning face dirt, wipes for skin care, wipes for care with active ingredients that combat skin aging, wipes with sunscreen preparations and insect repellents, and also wipes for decorative makeup or after-sun treatment, toilet wipes, antiperspirant wipes, diapers, pocket tissues, wet tissues, hygiene products, self-tanning wipes). They can also be used, inter alia, in hair care, hair washing or hair dyeing preparations. Furthermore, they can be used in the preparation of decorative cosmetics, such as, for example, lipstick, lip gloss, make-up, foundation, powder, eye shadow, mascara, etc.

[0060] The use concentrations in the respective formulations and preparations are comparable to petrolatum. Thus, pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations comprising the polyol ester mixtures according to the invention are likewise provided by the invention.

[0061] The polyol ester mixture of the present invention can be used in a concentration of 0.5% by weight up to 100% by weight, preferably 1 to 50% by weight, more preferably 2 to 20% by weight, and most preferably 2.5 to 15% by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition.

[0062] Therefore, another embodiment of the present invention is a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising from 0.5% by weight up to 100% by weight, preferably from 1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, most preferably from 2.5 to 15% by weight of the polyol ester mixture according to the present invention, based on the weight of the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition.

[0063] Since the polyol ester mixtures according to the invention are advantageous over the use of petrolatum due to the fact that, in particular in surface-active preparations, they produce a higher amount of foam than comparable petrolatum-containing systems, cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations comprising the polyol esters according to the invention and surface-active substances are also provided by the invention.

[0064] Depending on the intended application, cosmetic preparations may contain a range of further auxiliaries and additives, such as surfactants, as listed by way of example below, further oil components, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency regulators, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biologically active ingredients, UV photoprotectors, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film-forming agents, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanning agents, tyrosinase inhibitors (pigmentation inhibitors), fillers, hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, fragrance oils, dyes, etc.

[0065] Suitable surface-active substances are in principle any substances which reduce the surface tension between an aqueous phase and a non-aqueous phase. Surface-active substances include emulsifiers and surfactants.

[0066] Non-ionic emulsifiers The group of non-ionic emulsifiers includes, for example: (1) An addition product of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 20 mol of propylene oxide to a linear fatty alcohol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, a fatty acid having 12 to 40 carbon atoms, and an alkylphenol having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. (2) C of the addition products of 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide to glycerol 12 ~C 18 Fatty acid mono- and diesters. (3) Sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products. (4) Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and their ethoxylated analogues. (5) Addition products of 7 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil. (6) Polyols, in particular polyglycerol esters, such as poly-12-hydroxystearic acid polyol, polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglycerol diisostearate or polyglycerol dimerate, etc. Likewise suitable are mixtures of two or more compounds of these substance classes, such as polyglyceryl-4 (diisostearate / polyhydroxystearic acid / sebacic acid). (7) Addition products of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil. (8) Linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6-C 22 Partial or mixed esters based on fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid with polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) and also sucrose polystearate (commercially available as Emulgade® SUCRO from BASF). (9) Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers and the corresponding derivatives. (10) Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohols and / or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methylglucose and a polyol, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.

[0067] The addition products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters and also to sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or to castor oil are known and commercially available products. They are homolog mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the quantitative amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to the substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. Depending on the degree of ethoxylation, they are W / O or O / W emulsifiers. The C of the addition products of ethylene oxide to glycerol is 12 / 18 Fatty acid mono- and diesters are known as fat-reforming agents in cosmetic preparations.

[0068] Suitable lipophilic W / O emulsifiers are as a rule those with an HLB value of 1 to 8, which are summarized in numerous tables and are known to those skilled in the art. In the case of ethoxylated products, the HLB value can also be calculated according to the following formula: HLB=(100-L):5, where L is the weight fraction in weight percent of lipophilic groups, i.e. fatty alkyl or fatty acyl groups, in the ethylene oxide adduct.

[0069] From the group of the W / O emulsifiers, partial esters of polyols, in particular of C4-C6 polyols, such as partial esters of pentaerythritol or sugar esters, such as sucrose distearate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquiricinoleate Particularly advantageous are sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and technical grade mixtures thereof. Suitable emulsifiers are also addition products of 1 to 30 mol, preferably 5 to 10 mol, of ethylene oxide onto certain sorbitan esters.

[0070] Depending on the formulation, it may be advantageous to additionally use at least one emulsifier from the group of nonionic O / W emulsifiers (HLB value: 8-18) and / or solubilizers. These are, for example, the ethylene oxide adducts already mentioned in the introduction, which accordingly have a high degree of ethoxylation, for example 10-20 ethylene oxide units in the case of O / W emulsifiers and 20-40 ethylene oxide units in the case of so-called solubilizers. According to the invention, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20 and PEG-20 stearate are particularly advantageous as O / W emulsifiers. Suitable solubilizers are preferably Eumulgin® HRE 40 (INCI: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil), Eumulgin® HRE 60 (INCI: PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil), Eumulgin® L (INCI: PPG-1-PEG-9 lauryl glycol ether) and Eumulgin® SML 20 (INCI: Polysorbate-20).

[0071] Nonionic emulsifiers from the group of alkyl oligoglycosides are preferably suitable as O / W emulsifiers, since they are particularly gentle on the skin. 22 Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 6 to 24, preferably 8 to 22, carbon atoms. With regard to the glycosidic group, both monoglycosides in which one cyclic sugar group is glycosidically linked to a fatty alcohol and also oligomeric glycosides, the degree of oligomerization of which is preferably up to about 8, can be said to be suitable. The degree of oligomerization referred to here is a statistical average value based on the distribution of homologues, as is customary for industrial products of this type. Products available under the name Plantacare® or Plantaren® contain C8-C cyclic sugars glycosidically linked to oligoglucoside groups with an average degree of oligomerization of 1 to 2. 16The nonionic emulsifiers include alkyl groups. The acyl glucamides derived from glucamine are also suitable as nonionic emulsifiers. According to the invention, the product sold by BASF Deutschland GmbH under the name Emulgade® PL 68 / 50, which is a 1:1 mixture of alkyl polyglucosides and fatty alcohols, can be advantageously used according to the invention, as can the mixture of lauryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, glycerol and water, which is sold under the name Eumulgin® VL 75.

[0072] Suitable emulsifiers are also substances such as lecithin and phospholipids.An example of natural lecithin is cephalin, also called phosphatidic acid, which is a derivative of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphate.On the other hand, phospholipids are generally understood to mean the monoester and preferably diester of phosphoric acid and glycerol (glycerol phosphate) that is generally contained in fat.In addition, sphingosine and / or sphingolipids are also suitable.

[0073] For example, silicone emulsifiers may be present as emulsifiers. These may be chosen, for example, from the group of alkylmethicone copolyols and / or alkyldimethicone copolyols, and in particular from the group of compounds characterized by the following chemical structure: [ka] In the formula, X and Y are each independently selected from the group H (hydrogen) and branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, p is a number from 0 to 200, q is a number from 1 to 40, and r is a number from 1 to 100.

[0074] One example of a silicone emulsifier which can be used particularly advantageously in the context of the present invention is the dimethicone copolyol sold under the trade names AXIL® B 8842, ABIL® B 8843, ABIL® B 8847, ABIL® B 8851, ABIL® B 8852, ABIL® B 8863, ABIL® B 8873 and ABIL® B 88183 by Evonik Goldschmidt.

[0075] A further example of a surface-active substance to be used particularly advantageously in the context of the invention is cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone (cetyl dimethicone copolyol), sold under the trade name ABIL® EM 90 by Evonik Goldschmidt.

[0076] Further examples of surface-active substances which can be used particularly advantageously in connection with the invention are the cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyols sold under the trade names ABIL® EM 97 and ABIL® WE 09 by Evonik Goldschmidt.

[0077] Furthermore, the emulsifier Lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Methicone (Lauryl Methicone Copolyol) has proven to be very particularly advantageous and is available under the trade name Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid from Dow Corning Ltd. Also advantageous is the silicone emulsifier with the INCI name Cyclopentasiloxane and PEG / PG-18-18 Dimethicone, available, for example, under the trade name Dow Corning® 5225 C Formulation Aid.

[0078] A further advantageous silicone emulsifier is the octyl dimethicone ethoxyglucoside of Wacker.The silicone oil-in-water emulsion according to the present invention can use any known emulsifier used in this type of emulsion.The silicone oil-in-water emulsifiers particularly preferred according to the present invention herein are cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone and lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 methicone (e.g. ABIL® EM 90 Evonik Goldschmidt), DC5200 Formulation Aid (Dow Corning) and any desired mixture of both emulsifiers.

[0079] A suitable anionic O / W emulsifier is, for example, the product available under the INCI name disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate (trade name Eumulgin® Prisma, BASF GmbH).

[0080] Surfactants In one embodiment of the invention, the preparation according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant as surface-active compound. The surface-active substances that may be present are anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. In cosmetic preparations containing surfactants, such as shower gels, foam baths, shampoos, etc., at least one anionic surfactant is preferably present.

[0081] Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers and mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alkyl(en)yl oligoglycosides and glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based plant products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides.When nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional homolog distribution, but preferably have a narrow homolog distribution.

[0082] Zwitterionic surfactants are surfactants that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO (-) or -SO3 (-) A term used to refer to surface-active compounds bearing the groups. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, such as cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, such as cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, and also cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is a fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0083] Likewise, amphoteric surfactants are particularly suitable as co-surfactants. Amphoteric surfactants are those that have a C8 to C 18It is understood to mean a surface-active compound which, apart from the alkyl or acyl group, contains at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group and is capable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids (e.g. commercially available under the trade name Dehyton® DC), N-hydroxyethyl N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each of which has an alkyl group of about 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionates, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionates and C 12~18 Acyl sarcosine. Derivatives of N-alkyliminodipropionic acid are also suitable, such as N-lauryl-beta-iminopropionate, commercially available under the trade name Deriphat® 160 C. Amphoacetates are also suitable, such as cocoamphoacetate (e.g., Dehyton® MC) or cocoamphodiacetate (e.g., Dehyton® DC).

[0084] Anionic surfactants are characterized by anionic groups, such as carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, citrate or phosphate groups, which solubilize them in water, as well as lipophilic groups. A large number of skin-compatible anionic surfactants are known to the skilled artisan from the relevant handbooks and are commercially available. These are in particular alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether carboxylates, acyl isethionates, acyl sarcosines, acyltaurines, as well as sulfosuccinates and acyl glutamates in the form of alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium salts, with linear alkyl or acyl groups having 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Particularly suitable anionic surfactants are glyceryl stearate citrate (such as those commercially available under the trade names Imwitor® 370, Imwitor® 372P, Axol® C62 or Dracorin® CE 614035) or glycerol lactate stearate compounds. An example of a suitable alkyl sulfate is sodium cetearyl sulfate (trade name Lanette® E), and an example of a suitable phosphate is potassium cetyl phosphate (trade name Amphisol® K). An example of a suitable acyl glutamate is sodium stearoyl glutamate (for example, trade name Eumulgin® SG). A further example of a suitable anionic surfactant is sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate (trade name Plantapon® LGC).

[0085] Cationic surfactants that can be used are in particular quaternary ammonium compounds. Ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, dialkyldimethylammonium chloride and trialkylmethylammonium chloride, such as cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride are preferred. Suitable pseudo-cationic surfactants are, for example, stearylaminopropyldimethylamine (commercially available under the trade name Dehyquart® S18 or Incromine® SB or TegoAmide® S18). In addition, highly biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, such as dialkylammonium methosulfate and methylhydroxyalkyldialkyloxyalkylammonium methosulfate sold under the trade name Stepantex® and the corresponding products of the Dehyquart® series, can be used as cationic surfactants. The term "ester quat" is generally understood to mean quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. They can give the preparation according to the invention a particularly soft feel. They are known substances that are prepared by the corresponding methods of organic chemistry. Further cationic surfactants that can be used according to the invention are quaternized protein hydrolysates.Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, dipalmitoyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (trade name Dehyquart® C4046), distearoyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (trade name Dehyquart® F75), dicocoyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (trade name Dehyquart® L80), behentrimonium chloride (trade name Varisoft® BT), distearyldimonium chloride (trade name Varisoft® TA 100), palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride (trade name Varisoft® PATC).

[0086] polymer In one embodiment of the invention, the preparation according to the invention comprises at least one polymer. The preparation according to the invention comprises the polymer in an amount of 0 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 18% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the preparation according to the invention comprises the polymer in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0087] Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as, for example, quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose available from Amerchol under the name Polymer JR400®, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamide, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as, for example, Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols with amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat® L / Gruenau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as, for example, amidomethicone, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / San doz), copolymers of acrylic acid and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally with dispersed microcrystals, condensation products of dihaloalkylenes (such as dibromobutane) with bisdialkylamines (such as bisdimethylamino-1,3-propane), cationic guar gums such as Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternary ammonium salt polymers such as Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

[0088] Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones.

[0089] Particularly suitable anionic polymers are those with the INCI name Carbomer, such as Carbopol grades 980, 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, etc., and the products available under the trade names Rheocare® C plus and Rheocare® 400. Further suitable anionic polymers are those with the INCI names acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers (e.g. trade names Pemulen® TR, Pemulen® TR 2, Carbopol® Ultrez), acrylates copolymers (e.g. trade names Rheocare TTA, TTN, TTN-2), acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymers (e.g. trade name Cosmedia® ATC), sodium polyacrylate (e.g. trade name Cosmedia® ATH, Cosmedia® SP), polyacrylamide (e.g. trade name Sepigel® 305 or Sepigel® 501). Preferred anionic polymers are polyacrylic acid homopolymers and copolymers.

[0090] Further suitable polymers are silicone elastomer gums, such as silicone elastomer mixtures, such as, for example, the INCI name Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer Mixture (trade name DowCorning® DC 9027), the INCI name Isodecyl Neopentanoate (and) Dimethicone / Bis-isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer Mixture (trade name DowCorning® DC EL 8051 IN), the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) C12-14 Pareth-12 Mixture (trade name DowCorning® DC 9509) and the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica Mixture (trade name DowCorning® DC 9701 Cosmetic Powder).

[0091] In addition, suitable polymers are polysaccharides, especially xanthan gum, guar gum, agar, alginates and tylose, and also tara gum, carrageenan, sclerotium gum and natural cellulose.

[0092] Further oil components Body care compositions such as creams, body oils, lotions and milks usually contain a series of oil components and emollients that contribute to further optimization of sensory properties. The polyol ester mixture of the present invention can be used as the only oil component in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, but can also be mixed with additional oil components.

[0093] Suitable further oil components are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, as well as further esters, such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearate, Tearyl, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate, and erucyl erucate. 18 ~C 38 Alkyl hydroxycarboxylic acid and linear or branched C6-C 22 Esters with fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malate, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as, for example, propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol), C6-C 10 Triglycerides based on fatty acids, C6-C 18 Liquid mono / di / triglyceride mixture based on fatty acids, C6-C 22 Esters of fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, C2-C 12Esters of dicarboxylic acids with polyols having 2-10 carbon atoms and 2-6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C 22 Fatty alcohol carbonates, such as Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC), benzoic acid and linear and / or branched C6-C 22 Also suitable are esters with alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, and also hydrocarbons or mixtures thereof. Also suitable are esters of 2-propylheptanol with n-octanoic acid, such as those commercially available under the trade name Cetiol® Sensoft (BASF GmbH). Also suitable are hydrocarbons, such as undecane and / or tridecane. Also suitable are alkanes, such as the mixture with the INCI name coconut / palm / palm kernel oil alkanes (Biosynthesis trade name Vegelight 1214).

[0094] The oil component includes fats and waxes. Fats are understood to mean triacylglycerols, i.e. triple esters of fatty acids with glycerol. Preferably, they contain saturated, unsaturated and unsubstituted fatty acid groups. They can also be mixed esters, i.e. triple esters of glycerol with various fatty acids. If necessary, so-called hydrogenated fats and oils obtained by partial hydrogenation can be used as consistency regulators. Vegetable hydrogenated fats and oils are preferred, such as hydrogenated castor oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, colza seed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, corn oil, olive oil, sesame oil, cocoa butter, shea butter and coconut oil.

[0095] Particularly suitable are triple esters of glycerol with C12 to C60 fatty acids, in particular C12 to C36 fatty acids. These include hydrogenated castor oil, for example the triple ester of glycerol with hydroxystearic acid sold under the name Cutina HR. Likewise suitable are triglyceride mixtures known under the names glycerol tristearate, glycerol tribehenate (for example Syncrowax HRC), glycerol tripalmitate or Syncrowax HGLC, provided that the melting point of the wax component or mixture is above 30° C.

[0096] According to the invention, in particular mixtures of mono- and diglycerides or their partial glycerides can be used as wax components. Glyceride mixtures which can be used according to the invention include the products Novata AB and Novata B (mixtures of C12-C18 mono-, di- and triglycerides) and also Cutina® HVG (hydrogenated vegetable glycerides) or Cutina® GMS (glyceryl stearate) sold by BASF.

[0097] Fatty alcohols as consistency regulators that can be used according to the invention include C12-C50 fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be obtained from natural fats, oils and waxes, such as myristyl alcohol, 1-pentadecanol, cetyl alcohol, 1-heptadecanol, stearyl alcohol, 1-nonadecanol, arachidyl alcohol, 1-heneicosanol, behenyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol or myricyl alcohol. According to the invention, saturated unbranched fatty alcohols are preferred. However, unsaturated branched or unbranched fatty alcohols can also be used according to the invention as wax components, as long as they have the required melting point. According to the invention, it is also possible to use naturally occurring fats and oils, such as beef tallow, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, castor oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, cocoa butter and fatty alcohol fractions produced during reduction of cocoa fat, etc. On the other hand, it is also possible to use synthetic alcohols, for example linear even-numbered fatty alcohols from the Ziegler synthesis (Alfol) or partially branched alcohols from the Oxo synthesis (Dobanol). According to the invention, C14-C22 fatty alcohols are particularly suitable, and are commercially available, for example, from BASF under the names Lanette 16 (C16 alcohol), Lanette 14 (C14 alcohol), Lanette O (C16 / C18 alcohol) and Lanette 22 (C18 / C22 alcohol). Fatty alcohols are preferred to triglycerides, since they give the preparation a drier feel than triglycerides.

[0098] Wax components that can be used are also C14 to C40 fatty acids or mixtures thereof, such as myristic acid, pentadecanoic acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, arachic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, cerotic acid, melissic acid, erucic acid and eleostearic acid, and also substituted fatty acids, such as 12-hydroxystearic acid and amides or monoethanolamides of fatty acids, this list being of an exemplary and non-limiting nature.

[0099] For example, it is possible to use natural vegetable waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as orange wax, lemon wax, grapefruit wax, bayberry wax and animal waxes such as beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti wax, wool wax and tail fat oil. In the context of the present invention, it may be advantageous to use hydrogenated waxes. Natural waxes that can be used according to the present invention also include mineral waxes such as ceresin and ozokerite or petrochemical waxes such as petrolatum, paraffin wax and microcrystalline wax. Wax components that can be used are also chemically modified waxes, in particular hard waxes such as montan ester wax, sasol wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax. Synthetic waxes that can be used according to the present invention include, for example, wax-like polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes. According to the present invention, vegetable waxes are preferred.

[0100] The wax component may likewise be selected from the group of wax esters of saturated and / or unsaturated branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with saturated and / or unsaturated branched and / or unbranched alcohols, the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, tricarboxylic acids and hydroxycarboxylic acids (for example 12-hydroxystearic acid) with saturated and / or unsaturated branched and / or unbranched alcohols and also the group of lactides of long-chain hydroxycarboxylic acids. Examples of this type of ester are stearic acid C16-C40 alkyl esters, stearic acid C20-C40 alkyl esters (for example Kesterwachs K82H), C20-C40 dialkyl esters of dimer acid, C18-C38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates or erucic acid C20-C40 alkyl esters. It is also possible to use beeswax C30 to C50 alkyl esters, tristearyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl octanoate, trilauryl citrate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate, ethylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol di(12-hydroxystearic acid), stearyl stearate, palmityl stearate, stearyl behenate, cetyl esters, cetearyl behenate, and behenyl behenate.

[0101] UV shielding agent Another subject of the invention relates to a preparation comprising at least one compound according to claim 1 and at least one UV photoprotective filter, preferably an oil-soluble UV photoprotective filter.

[0102] According to the present invention, suitable UV photoprotective filters are organic substances (photoprotective filters) that are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and can absorb ultraviolet radiation and release the absorbed energy again in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat.UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.Typical oil-soluble UV-B filters or broad-spectrum UV A / B filters that can be mentioned are, for example: - 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcamphor (Mexoryl SDS 20) and its derivatives, such as 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, as described in EP 0 693 471 B1; - 3-(4'-trimethylammonium) benzylidenebornan-2-one methyl sulfate (Mexoryl SO), - 3,3'-(1,4-phenylenedimethine)bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo[2.2.1]heptane-1-methanesulfonic acid) and salts (Mexoryl SX), - 3-(4'-sulfo)benzylidenebornan-2-one and salts (Mexoryl SL), - polymers of N-{(2 and 4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)-methyl}benzyl]acrylamide (Mexoryl SW); - 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3-(1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(trimethylsilyloxy)-disiloxanyl)propyl)phenol (Mexoryl SL), - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate, 2-octyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate and amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate; - esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene); - esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate; - derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; - esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; triazine derivatives, such as, for example, 2,4,6-trianilino(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris[p-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine (Uvinul T 150) as described in EP 0 818 450 A1 or bis(2-ethylhexyl) 4,4'-[(6-[4-((1,1-dimethylethyl)aminocarbonyl)phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl)diimino]bisbenzoate (Uvasorb® HEB); - 2,2-(methylenebis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol) (Tinosorb M); - 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (Tinosorb S); - propane-1,3-diones, such as 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione; - ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decane derivatives as described in EP 0 694 521 B1; - Dimethicodiethyl benzalmalonate (Parsol SLX).

[0103] Suitable water-soluble UV filters are: - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucanmonium salts; - 2,2-((1,4-phenylene)bis(1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid monosodium salt) (Neo Heliopan AP), - sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; - sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, such as 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)sulfonic acid and their salts.

[0104] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the preparation comprises at least one oil-soluble UV photoprotective filter and at least one water-soluble UV photoprotective filter.Suitable typical UV-A filter is in particular the derivative of benzoylmethane, such as 1-(4'-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), 1-phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, and also the enamine compounds described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF) and also 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]-benzoic acid hexyl ester (Uvinul® A plus).

[0105] Of course, UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in the mixture. Particularly preferred combinations consist of derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene), in combination with esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate. This type of combination is advantageously combined with water-soluble filters, such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucanmonium salts.

[0106] The preparations according to the invention may also contain insoluble light-protecting pigments, i.e. finely dispersed metal oxides and / or salts. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, and also the oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium, and mixtures thereof. Usable salts are silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate. The oxides and salts are used in the form of pigments for skin care and skin protection emulsions and also decorative cosmetics. The average diameter of the particles should be less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm, in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may be spherical, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or which deviate in some other way from a spherical shape. The pigments can also be present in a surface-treated, i.e. hydrophilized or hydrophobized form. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T, Eusolex® T-2000, Eusolex® T-Aqua, Eusolex® AVO, Eusolex® T-ECO, Eusolex® T-OLEO and Eusolex® TS (Merck). Typical examples are zinc oxide, such as zinc oxide neutral, zinc oxide NDM (Symrise) or Z-Cote® (BASF) or SUNZnO-AS and SUNZnO-NAS (Sunjun Chemical Co. Ltd.). Suitable hydrophobic coatings here are mainly silicones, in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. It is preferred to use so-called micro- or nano-pigments in the sunscreen composition. Preferably, micronized zinc oxide is used.

[0107] In addition to the two groups of main photoprotective substances mentioned above, it is also possible to use secondary photoprotective agents of the antioxidant type, which interrupt the chain of photochemical reactions triggered by the penetration of UV radiation into the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. -carotene, -carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil. and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and further very low tolerance Doses (e.g., pmol-mol / kg) of sulfoximine compounds (e.g., buthionine sulfoximine, homocysteine ​​sulfoximine, buthionine sulfone, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine), as well as (metal) chelating agents (e.g., α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g., citric acid, lactic acid, maleic acid), humic acid, bile acids, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives, derivatives (e.g., gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g., ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherol and derivatives (e.g., vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutin acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol,Carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiasic acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO4), selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenomethionine), stilbene and its derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these specific active ingredients are preferred according to the invention.

[0108] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the preparation comprises 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, 3-(4'-trimethylammonium) benzylidene bornan-2-one methyl sulfate, 3,3'-(1,4-phenylenedimethine) bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo) ... The composition comprises at least one UV photoprotective screener selected from the group consisting of sobicyclo[2.2.1]heptane-1-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 3-(4'sulfo)benzylidenebornan-2-one and its salts, polymers of N-{(2 and 4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)methyl}benzyl]acrylamide, 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3-(1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(trimethylsilyloxy)disiloxanyl)propyl)phenol, dimethicodiethyl benzalmalonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] These UV photoprotective screening agents are commercially available, for example, under the following trade names: NeoHeliopan® MBC (INCI: 4-methylbenzylidene camphor; manufacturer: Symrise); NeoHeliopan® BB (INCI: Benzophenone-3; manufacturer: Symrise); Parsol® 1789 (INCI: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; manufacturer: Hoffmann La Roche (Givaudan); Tinosorb® S (INCI: Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine); Tinosorb® M (INCI: Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol); manufacturer: Ciba Specialty Chemicals Corporation; Uvasorb® HEB (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone; manufacturer: 3V Inc.); Unvinul® T 150 (INCI: Ethylhexyl triazone; manufacturer: BASF AG); Uvinul® A plus (INCI: Diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexylbenzoate: Manufacturer: BASF AG; Mexoryl® SO: 3-(4'-trimethylammonium) benzylidenebornan-2-one methyl sulfate, INCI: Camphorbenzalkonium methosulfate; Mexoryl® SX: 3,3'-(1,4-phenylenedimethine)bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo[2.2.1]heptane-1-methanesulfonic acid), CTFA: INCI: terephthalidene dicamphorsulfonic acid; Mexory® SL: 3-(4'-sulfo)benzylidene bornan-2-one, INCI benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid; Mexoryl® SW: polymer of N-{(2 and 4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)methyl}benzyl]acrylamide, INCI polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor; Mexoryl® SL: 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3-(1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(trimethylsilyloxy)disiloxanyl)propyl)phenol; INCI: drometrizole trisiloxane; Parsol® SLX: dimethico diethyl benzalmalonate, INCI polysilicone-15. .

[0110] The preparations according to the invention may contain UV light protective filters in an amount of 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably 2.5 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 5 to 15% by weight, based on the preparation.

[0111] Further ingredients Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil grades (hydrophilic silica), carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone and bentonite, such as Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox).Suitable thickeners are, for example, the products with the INCI names dicaprylyl carbonate, stearalkonium hectorite and propylene carbonate available under the trade name Cosmedia® Gel CC.Bioactive ingredients should be understood to mean, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, β-glucan, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as prune extract, bambara nut extract, and vitamin complexes. Deodorant actives / antiperspirants neutralize, mask or eliminate body odor. Body odor is formed as a result of the action of bacteria on the skin on sweat from the apocrine glands, during which unpleasant-smelling decomposition products are formed. Antimicrobial agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbents or odor masking agents are therefore suitable, inter alia, as deodorant actives. Suitable insect repellents are, for example, N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl 3-(Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino)propionate, sold by Merck KGaA under the name Insect Repellent® 3535, and also butyl acetylaminopropionate. Suitable self-tanning agents are dihydroxylacetone or erythrulose. Suitable tyrosine inhibitors that prevent melanogenesis and are used in pigmentation-suppressing compositions are, for example, arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol, chlorphenesin, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerol or sorbic acid, as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and other substances listed in Appendix 6, Part A and Part B of the Cosmetics Ordinance. The fragrance oils can include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit skins, roots, wood, herbs and grasses, needles and branches, resins and balsams. Animal raw materials, such as, for example, musk and castoreum, and also synthetic fragrance compounds of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type are also suitable. Suitable pearlescent waxes or pearlescent compounds, especially for use in surface-active formulations, are, for example, alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of optionally hydroxy-substituted polybasic carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially the long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fatty substances, for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates having a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearyl ether; stearyl citrate, cyclodextrins, fatty acids, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring-opening products of olefin epoxides having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] Usable superfatting agents are, for example, substances such as lanolin and lecithin and further polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, which also function as foam stabilizers. A suitable superfatting agent is, for example, a mixture of coco-glucoside and glyceryl oleate (commercially available as Lamesoft® PO65 from BASF).

[0113] Suitable fillers are, for example, substances which improve the organoleptic or cosmetic properties of the preparation, for example producing or enhancing a velvety or silky feel (so-called skin sensory regulators). Suitable fillers are starch and starch derivatives (such as, for example, tapioca starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, sodium octenylsuccinate, distarch phosphate, etc.), pigments which do not act primarily as UV filters or dyes (such as, for example, boron nitride) and / or Aerosil® (CAS No. 7631-86-9) and / or talc, and also for example polymethylmethacrylate (such as, for example, Cosmedia® PMMA V8 / V12), silica (such as, for example, Cosmedia® SILC), stearalkonium hectorite (as present in the commercial product Cosmedia® Gel CC) and also HDI / trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer (as present in the commercial product Cosmedia® CUSHION).

[0114] Stabilizers that can be used are metal salts of fatty acids, such as magnesium stearate or ricinoleate, aluminum and / or zinc. To improve the flow behavior, hydrotropes, such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols, can also be used. Polyols suitable here are preferably those having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Polyols may also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, and / or be modified with nitrogen.

[0115] The polyol esters according to claim 1 are likewise suitable for cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations for impregnating or coating multipurpose and hygiene wipes used in personal care and cleaning and / or body care.

[0116] Multi-purpose wipes and hygiene wipes that may be mentioned by way of example are tissues, papers, wipes, nonwoven products, sponges, puffs, bandages and dressings used in the field of hygiene and care. These may be infant hygiene and baby care wipes, dirt removal wipes, face dirt removal wipes, skin care wipes, care wipes with active ingredients that combat skin aging, wipes with sunscreen preparations and insect repellents and also decorative cosmetic or after-sun treatment wipes, toilet wipes, antiperspirant wipes, diapers, pocket tissues, wet tissues, hygiene products and self-tanning wipes. EXAMPLES

[0117] (1) Preparation Examples 1.1 Polyol ester mixture sample of the invention (INV): Glycerin 230.3g (2.5mol), Palmera B1231 460.3 (2.1mol) (C8+C10 FA: max 1.5%, C12-FA: 50-62%, C14-FA: 15-26%, C16-FA: 8-14%, C18-FA: 7-14%, C18:1-FA: max 1%) and fatty acid L25MGS 244.4g (0.9mol) (FA below C14: max 1% - C14-FA: 0-5% - C16-FA: 40.0-49.0% - C18-FA: 50.0-58.0% - C18+ FA: max 2%) (see Table 1 for final fatty acid distribution) was charged to a round bottom flask equipped with a propeller stirrer, side arm water condenser and collection flask, nitrogen sparge, thermometer (thermocouple) and isomantle, melted at 80°C and gassed with nitrogen. Sebacic acid 303.4 (1.5 mol) was added and the mixture was heated to 220°C under nitrogen sparge while removing reaction water through the condenser. The reaction was stopped when the acid number reached less than 2 mg KOH / g (after 32 hours) and the product was discharged.

[0118] [Table 2]

[0119] 1.2 Comparison - Example (A) with Behenic Acid 184.2 g (2 mol) of glycerin, 816.24 g (2.4 mol) of behenic acid (C22-85, supplier: Cremer Oleo Division (C18-FA: <5%, C20-FA: ≦12%, C22-FA: 87.1%, >C22 FA: 1.8%) were charged to a three-neck flask equipped with a propeller stirrer, 242.7 g (1.2 mol) of sebacic acid was added, the mixture was melted at 80° C. and gassed with nitrogen. The mixture was slowly heated to 210° C. under stirring while removing the reaction water through a condenser under nitrogen sparge. The reaction was stopped when the acid number reached less than 2 mg KOH / g (after 23 hours) and the product was discharged.

[0120] 1.3 Comparison - Example with different fatty acid distribution (B) 231.1 g (2.5 mol) of glycerol, 72.37 g (0.5 mol) of caprylic (octanoic) acid (Edenor C8-98 / 100 supplied by Emery (C6-FA: ≦1%, C8-FA: ≧99%, C10-FA: ≦1%)), 343.79 g (1.5 mol) of myristic (tetradecanoic) acid (Edenor C14-98 / 100 supplied by Emery (C12-FA: ≦1%, C14-FA: ≧99%, C16-FA: ≦1%)) and 285.5 g (1.0 mol) of stearic (octadecanoic) acid (Edenor C818-98 / 100 supplied by Emery (C12-FA: ≦1%, C14-FA: ≧99%, C16-FA: ≦1%)). Supplier: Emery (C16-FA: ≦2%, C8-FA: ≧99%, C18-FA: ≦2%)) was charged into a three-necked bottom flask equipped with a propeller stirrer, 304.4 g (1.5 mol) of sebacic acid was added, the mixture was melted at 80° C. and gassed with nitrogen. The mixture was slowly heated to 220° C. under stirring while removing the reaction water through a condenser under nitrogen sparge. The reaction was stopped when the acid number reached less than 2 mg KOH / g (after 26.5 hours) and the product was discharged.

[0121] [Table 3]

[0122] After 11 months storage at room temperature, there is no change in color, odor or physical appearance.

[0123] (2) Sensory evaluation – in vivo test: After toxicological clearance, a sensory evaluation was performed to assess the sensory differences between the polyol ester mixture of the present invention and Comparative B. Since the Comparative A sample was a solid waxy component that could not be spread on the skin at room temperature, the state of the art product (Comparative B) was used as the reference material against which the polyol ester mixture of the present invention was investigated.

[0124] A head-to-head comparison of the formulations was conducted by a trained panel of 11 volunteers to assess the sensory evaluation during product application. The formulations were evaluated by placing a finger on the forearm during absorption.

[0125] The rating is done on a 5-point scale from minus 1 to plus 1 (i.e. compared to a standard). The test is performed in a double-blind manner. The samples are coded and applied randomly.

[0126] Eleven panelists rated the products by individually answering the following parameters: - Easy to take - consistency - Spreadability - Melting during application - Softness during application - Skin care benefits during application - Waxy feeling during application - Stickiness during application - Smoothness during application - Tolerance after application - Absorption after 1 minute - Absorption after 3 minutes

[0127] Both the "ease of application" and "consistency" parameters are assessed with the index finger in the cream jar. For all other parameters, a measured amount (150 μl) of cream was placed on the inside of each forearm and spread in 20 circular movements.

[0128] The sensory evaluation is carried out in an air-conditioned room at a temperature of 22° C. and a relative humidity of 40%. The climate-controlled room is equipped with a HEPA filter. It can be seen in Table 3 that the polyol ester of the present invention is softer and easier to dispense compared to state-of-the-art sample B, leaving an improved impression of softness, waxiness and smoothness during application.

[0129] [Table 4]

[0130] (3) Formulation Examples

[0131] [Table 5]

[0132] Preparation advice: Preparation of Phase B (water, glycerin, xanthan gum): Disperse the xanthan gum in glycerin and add this premix to water under stirring. Heat phase A (oil phase) and phase B separately to 75°C. Once the two phases are homogenous, add phase A to phase B and stir vigorously for 10 minutes. Allow the emulsion to cool while stirring. Add preservatives, tocopherol and fragrance at a temperature of T<40°C and cool to room temperature. Adjust pH to 5.8-6.2 with citric acid.

[0133] [Table 6]

[0134] Preparation advice: Preparation of Phase B (water, glycerin, xanthan gum): Disperse the xanthan gum in glycerin and add this premix to the water under stirring. Heat phase A (oil phase) and phase B separately to 80°C. Once the two phases are homogenous, add phase B to phase A and allow the emulsion to cool with stirring. Homogenize at about 50°C using a suitable dispersing unit (e.g. Ultra Turrax). Add preservatives and flavors at a temperature below 40°C and cool to room temperature. Adjust the pH to 5.8-6.5 with citric acid.

[0135] [Table 7]

[0136] Preparation advice: All ingredients except tocopherol and fragrance are melted with stirring at 85°C. Cool, add fragrance and tocopherol at a temperature below 45°C, fill into respective moulds and cool further to 20°C.

Claims

1. a) 0.8 to 1.2 mol of glycerol, b) 0.5 to 0.7 mol of sebacic acid, c) 1.0 to 1.4 mol of a monocarboxylic fatty acid mixture having a chain length of 8 to 24 carbon atoms In a polyol ester mixture obtainable by an esterification reaction of, the fatty acid mixture c) contains a maximum of 30% by weight of linear C18 fatty acid, a maximum of 3% by weight of fatty acids having less than C12, and a maximum of 3% by weight of fatty acids having more than C18, based on the total weight of the monocarboxylic fatty acids. A polyol ester mixture characterized by that.

2. The polyol ester mixture according to claim 1, having an acid value of less than 5 mg KOH / g, preferably less than 3 mg KOH / g, more preferably less than 2 mg KOH / g, determined by ISO 660.

3. c) has the following fatty acid distribution: 23 to 33% by weight of linear C18 fatty acid, 20 to 28% by weight of linear C16 fatty acid, 10 to 18% by weight of linear C14 fatty acid, and 30 to 40% by weight of linear C12 fatty acid However, the fatty acid mixture contains a maximum of 3% by weight of fatty acids having less than C12 and a maximum of 3% by weight of fatty acids having more than C18, and all weight percentages are based on the total of the monocarboxylic fatty acids in the reaction mixture determined by gas chromatography. The polyol ester mixture according to claim 1, characterized by that.

4. a) 0.9 to 1.1 mol of glycerin, b) 0.5 to 0.7 mol of sebacic acid, c) 1.1 to 1.3 mol of a monocarboxylic fatty acid mixture having a chain length of 8 to 24 carbon atoms The polyol ester mixture according to claim 1, obtainable by an esterification reaction of.

5. Having a tangent delta of 1 at 31 ± 5°C, preferably 31 ± 3°C, most preferably 31 ± 2°C, determined by oscillatory rheology using a rheometer ARG2_10H4440 from TA Instruments (shape: cross-hatch - 40 mm parallel plate, steel Peltier plate - 104445; measurement conditions: 15 to 50°C; 1 K / min; strain 0.1%; frequency 1 Hz). The polyol ester mixture according to claim 1.

6. The melting range measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) is from -25 °C to +60 °C, the width of the melting range includes at least 30 °C, and the maximum value of the heat flow (W g －１ ), is detected at 10 ± 15 °C, the polyol ester mixture according to claim 1.

7. The polyol ester mixture according to claim 1, wherein the esterification reaction is carried out at a temperature of 180 to 250°C.

8. The catalyst is the polyol ester mixture according to claim 1, which is not used in the esterification reaction.

9. In the absence of a catalyst, at a temperature of 180 °C to 250 °C, while removing the reaction water through a condenser under vacuum until the acid value becomes less than 5 mg KOH / g, a) 0.8 to 1.2 mol of glycerin, b) 0.5 to 0.7 mol of sebacic acid, and c) 1.0 to 1.4 mol of C8 - C24 monocarboxylic fatty acid In a process for producing a polyol ester mixture by reacting them in a "one - pot process", the fatty acid mixture c) contains a maximum of 30% by weight of linear C18 fatty acid, a maximum of 3% by weight of fatty acids with less than C12, and a maximum of 3% by weight of fatty acids with more than C18, based on the total weight of the monocarboxylic fatty acids. A process characterized by this.

10. Use of the polyol ester mixture according to claim 1 as a substitute for petrolatum.

11. Use of the polyol ester mixture according to claim 1 in cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions.

12. Use of the polyol ester mixture according to claim 1 as an oil component, skin softener and / or solubilizer in personal care, skin care and hair care compositions.

13. A cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing 0.5% to a maximum of 100% by weight, preferably 1% to 50% by weight, more preferably 2% to 20% by weight, most preferably 2.5% to 15% by weight of the polyol ester mixture according to claim 1, based on the weight of the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition.