Highly air permeable stretch woven fabric

Abstract

To provide a highly air permeable stretch woven fabric that is a warp double woven stretch fabric including warp formed of a spun yarn and weft formed of a spun yarn or a filament yarn and has excellent stretchability, high air permeability and anti-slip (seam slippage) performance.SOLUTION: A warp double woven highly air permeable stretch fabric includes warp formed of a spun yarn and weft formed of a spun yarn or a filament yarn and has 15% or more of expansion rate in weft direction of the stretch woven fabric, 70% or more of elongation recovery rate after one hour, and 50 cm3 / cm2 s or more of air permeability. It is preferable that the warp is formed of the spun yarn spun by bundle spinning, and that rolling test value of the warp is 17 or more and raw yarn frictional resistance value μ of the warp is 0.350 or more.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a warp double-woven stretch fabric including warp yarns made of spun yarns and weft yarns made of spun yarns or filament yarns, and to a highly breathable stretch fabric having good stretchability, high breathability, and anti-slip (seam slippage) performance. [Background technology]

[0002] Stretch woven fabrics having stretchability have been used in clothing such as working wear.

[0003] Patent Document 1 describes a weft double weave fabric, in which the weft yarn constituting the front weave is a composite fiber in which different types of polyester polymers are bonded together in a side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath type along the fiber length direction, and the weft yarn constituting the back weave is a spun yarn, and which is characterized by simultaneously satisfying the following conditions (1) to (4): (1) The elongation rate in the weft direction measured by JIS L1096 Elongation Rate Method B (load 14.7N) is 13% or more. (2) The sum of the elongation in the weft direction and the elongation in the warp direction measured by JIS L1096 Elongation Method B (load 14.7N) is 15% or more. (3) When washed once using the JIS L1096 F-2 method (medium temperature washer method; 60°C x 30 minutes) and then tumble dried, the dimensional change in both the warp direction and weft direction is +3% to -3%. (4) The mean mean deviation (SMD) of the surface roughness measured by the KES-F system in the unstretched surface structure is 6.5 μm or less.

[0004] Patent Document 1 does not consider breathability.

[0005] Patent Document 2 describes a method for producing a breathable fabric in which a soluble multifiber yarn that is easily soluble in a specific solvent is woven into a raw fabric to be constructed using insoluble multifiber yarns that are insoluble or poorly soluble in the specific solvent to form a raw fabric, and then the specific solvent is applied to dissolve the soluble multifiber yarns woven into the raw fabric, generating breathable gaps in the weave formed by the insoluble multifiber yarns in the raw fabric according to the fineness (thickness) of the dissolved soluble multifiber yarns.

[0006] The manufacturing method of Patent Document 2 can produce breathable woven fabrics, but it requires a step of applying a specific solvent to dissolve part of the fabric, which makes the process complicated and increases the manufacturing costs. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0007] [Patent Document 1] JP 2023-68667 A [Patent Document 2] JP 2005-220463 A Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0008] The present invention aims to provide a highly breathable stretch fabric having good stretchability, high breathability and anti-slip (seam slippage) performance in a warp double weave stretch fabric including warp yarns made of spun yarns and weft yarns made of spun yarns or filament yarns. [Means for solving the problem]

[0009] As a result of extensive research, the inventors have discovered that in a warp double weave stretch fabric comprising a warp yarn made of spun yarn and a weft yarn made of spun yarn or filament yarn, by setting the elongation rate in the weft direction, the elongation recovery rate after one hour, and the air permeability to specific values, a highly breathable stretch fabric having good stretchability, high breathability, and anti-slip (seam slippage) performance can be obtained, and have completed the present invention.

[0010] The present invention is a warp double weave stretch fabric including a warp yarn made of spun yarn and a weft yarn made of spun yarn or filament yarn, and is based on the following technology.

[0011] (1) A warp double weave stretch fabric containing a warp yarn made of spun yarn and a weft yarn made of spun yarn or filament yarn, the stretch rate in the weft direction is 15% or more, the stretch recovery rate after one hour is 70% or more, and the breathability is 50 cm 3 / cm 2 Highly breathable stretch fabric with s or more.

[0012] (2) A highly breathable stretch fabric according to (1), wherein the warp yarn is made of spun yarn produced by a spinning method in which a swirling air current is used to bind a fiber bundle to produce yarn.

[0013] (3) A highly breathable stretch fabric according to (2), in which the warp yarn is made of spun yarn produced by a spinning method in which a swirling air current is used to bind a fiber bundle to produce a yarn, and the warp yarn has a rolling test value of 17 times or more.

[0014] (4) A highly breathable stretch fabric according to (2) or (3), in which the raw yarn friction resistance value μ of the warp yarn made of spun yarn produced by a spinning method in which a swirling air current is used to bind a fiber bundle to produce a yarn is 0.350 or more.

[0015] (5) A highly breathable stretch fabric according to any one of (1) to (4), wherein the weft yarn is made of polyester filament yarn.

[0016] (6) The highly breathable stretch fabric according to any one of (1) to (5), wherein the warp double weave has a three-ply twill, four-ply twill, or five-ply twill weave. Effect of the Invention

[0017] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a highly breathable stretch fabric having good stretchability, high breathability and anti-slip (seam slippage) performance. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0018] The highly breathable stretch fabric of the present invention is a warp double weave stretch fabric including a warp yarn made of spun yarn and a weft yarn made of spun yarn or filament yarn, and has a stretch rate in the weft direction of 15% or more, a stretch recovery rate after 1 hour of 70% or more, and a breathability of 50 cm 3 / cm 2 s or more.

[0019] The warp yarns used in the highly breathable stretch fabric of the present invention may be spun yarns twisted using a ring spinning device or spun yarns spun using a spinning method in which a swirling air flow is used to bind a fiber bundle to produce a yarn, i.e., so-called bundling spinning.

[0020] The material of the warp threads may be natural fibers such as cotton, linen, wool, and silk; regenerated fibers such as rayon, cupra, and polynosic; semi-regenerated fibers such as acetate; and chemically synthesized fibers such as nylon, polyester, acrylic, polypropylene, and vinyl chloride.

[0021] The fineness of the warp threads is preferably 10 to 60 in British cotton count.

[0022] In addition, it is preferable to use spun yarns spun by bundle spinning as the warp yarns.

[0023] The yarn spun by the bundling spinning method has a high surface friction resistance, and by using such a spun yarn as the warp thread, good anti-slip (seam slippage) performance can be obtained.

[0024] The spun yarn spun by the above-mentioned bundling spinning preferably has a rolling test value of 17 or more, more preferably 20 or more.

[0025] The rolling test value is the number of reciprocations at which the spun yarn breaks when the spun yarn spun at 400 m / min is tested using a semi-automatic rolling tester manufactured by Murata Kikai Co., Ltd.

[0026] The anti-slip performance is further improved by using yarn spun by bundle spinning, which has a rolling test value of 17 times or more, as the warp yarn.

[0027] In addition, the spun yarn spun by the bundling spinning preferably has a raw yarn friction resistance value μ of 0.350 or more.

[0028] The raw yarn friction resistance value μ was measured using a FRICTION METER from Yamashiro Wax LTD.

[0029] By using, as the warp yarn, yarn spun by bundling spinning, with a raw yarn friction resistance value μ of 0.350 or more, the anti-slip performance (seam slippage) is further improved.

[0030] Taking advantage of this characteristic, it is possible to adopt weaving specifications (yarn count, density, structure) in a range that was previously not possible because it was not possible to guarantee anti-slip (seam slippage) performance, and to achieve good breathability.

[0031] The weft yarn used in the highly breathable stretch fabric of the present invention may be a spun yarn twisted by a ring spinning device, a spun yarn spun by bundling spinning, or a filament yarn.

[0032] The material for the weft thread can be natural fibers such as cotton, linen, wool, and silk; regenerated fibers such as rayon, cupra, and polynosic; semi-regenerated fibers such as acetate; and chemically synthesized fibers such as nylon, polyester, acrylic, polypropylene, and vinyl chloride.

[0033] The fineness of the weft yarn is preferably 10 to 60 English cotton count in the case of spun yarn, and 75 denier to 600 denier in the case of filament yarn.

[0034] From the viewpoint of stretchability, it is preferable to use 100% polyester filament yarn for the weft.

[0035] Furthermore, the warp double weave of the stretch fabric of the present invention is made of any one of three-way twill, four-way twill, and five-way twill.

[0036] From the viewpoint of breathability, the warp double weave is preferably a warp double weave with a front and back 1:1 ratio. By using a warp double weave with a front and back 1:1 ratio, the warp threads forming the front and the warp threads forming the back are in a shutter-like state, which further improves breathability.

[0037] Next, the method for producing the highly breathable stretch fabric of the present invention will be described in detail.

[0038] <Weaving> The above warp and weft threads are used to weave a double warp weave fabric. The warp thread density is 80 threads / inch to 200 threads / inch on the grey fabric, and the weft thread density is 40 threads / inch to 100 threads / inch on the grey fabric.

[0039] <Mercerizing> Mercerization is a process for increasing the luster of cellulose fibers, especially cotton fibers, and imparts a silk-like luster. Alkaline agents used in mercerization include aqueous solutions of caustic soda, caustic potash, lithium hydroxide, etc., liquid ammonia, etc., and these can also be used in combination with sodium sulfate, sodium silicate, sodium chloride, etc., depending on the material.

[0040] When mercerizing cellulosic fibers with these alkaline agents, the temperature of the alkaline agent is set to -10°C to 100°C depending on the purpose. Processing methods that can be used include batch processing, hank mercerizing, and continuous mercerizing. Mercerizing is not essential and can be omitted depending on the material used.

[0041] <Relaxation processing> The relaxation treatment is a treatment in which a woven fabric using twisted yarn is relaxed in a tension-free state in high-temperature water to allow the twisted yarn torque to be exerted and the woven fabric to shrink sufficiently, and although there are no particular limitations on the conditions for the relaxation treatment, the temperature is usually 80 to 100°C and the treatment time is usually about 1 to 30 minutes. Note that the relaxation treatment is not essential and can be omitted.

[0042] <Liquid ammonia treatment> The relaxed fabric is treated with liquid ammonia in a tension-free state. The liquid ammonia treatment can be carried out, for example, by immersing the fiber structure in liquid ammonia maintained at a temperature of -33°C or lower.

[0043] Cellulose in its natural state has a cellulose I crystal structure, and mercerization produces a cellulose II crystal structure. When these are immersed in liquid ammonia, the liquid ammonia penetrates not only the amorphous parts of the cellulose fibers but also the crystalline parts, breaking the hydrogen bonds and causing the entire fiber to swell. When the liquid ammonia is then evaporated by heating, new hydrogen bonds are formed. This produces cellulose III in the crystalline regions, and the crystals are fixed in a swollen form.

[0044] As the impregnation method, a method of immersing the fiber structure in a liquid ammonia bath, a method of spraying or coating the fiber structure with liquid ammonia, etc. can be used. In general, the immersion time in liquid ammonia can be about 5 to 80 seconds, preferably about 10 to 60 seconds. Note that the liquid ammonia treatment is not essential and can be omitted depending on the material used.

[0045] <Hot water treatment> The liquid ammonia-treated fiber structure is then subjected to a hot water treatment in a tension-free relaxed state. The hot water treatment is usually carried out at a temperature within a range of about 100 to about 150°C, preferably about 110 to about 140°C. This hot water treatment can be carried out using any device capable of hot water treatment at high pressure, such as a high-pressure jet dyeing machine or a high-pressure drum dyeing machine. The hot water treatment is not essential and can be omitted.

[0046] <Resin processing> Examples of resin finishing agents include aldehydes such as formaldehyde, glyoxal, and glutaraldehyde, epoxy compounds such as diglycidyl ether, polycarboxylic acids such as tetrabutane carboxylic acid, and cellulose-reactive methylol compounds such as dimethylol urea, trimethylol melamine, dimethylol ethylene urea, and dimethylol dihydroxyethylene urea. Of these, glyoxal is preferred.

[0047] The amount of the resin finishing agent added is 3 to 10% by weight, preferably 5 to 8% by weight, in terms of solid content concentration, relative to the fabric to be resin finished.

[0048] A catalyst can be added to the resin finishing agent to enhance the reaction activity between the resin finishing agent and cellulose and to perform the resin finishing quickly. As the catalyst, a catalyst usually used in resin finishing can be used, for example, borofluoride compounds such as ammonium borofluoride, sodium borofluoride, potassium borofluoride, and zinc borofluoride, neutral metal salt catalysts such as magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, and magnesium nitrate, and inorganic acids such as phosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfurous acid, hyposulfurous acid, and boric acid. If necessary, organic acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, and maleic acid can be used in combination with these catalysts as promoters.

[0049] If necessary, auxiliary agents such as glycerin, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, etc. can be added to the resin finishing agent in order to facilitate the reaction between cellulose and resin. In addition, softeners for adjusting the texture, formalin catchers for reducing the concentration of free formalin, etc. can be added.

[0050] The resin finishing agent can be applied to the woven fabric by a conventional pad-dry method, a gas phase reaction using formaldehyde, etc. For example, in the pad-dry method, the woven fabric is immersed in a preparation containing the resin finishing agent, and then squeezed at a squeezing rate of 50 to 120%, and dried at an atmospheric temperature of about 120°C.

[0051] Subsequently, the resin processing agent and cellulose are heat-treated at a temperature of 120 to 180°C for 1 to 10 minutes to generate crosslinks, thereby imparting shape stability and elongation recovery rate. Note that the resin processing treatment is not essential and can be omitted. EXAMPLES

[0052] The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

[0053] <Example 1> A warp yarn of English count 45 (rolling test value 22 times, raw yarn friction resistance value μ 0.355) made of a cotton and polyester blend spun by bundle spinning and a weft yarn of 75 denier polyester filament were used to obtain a warp double weave fabric made of three-way twill weave. The warp yarn density was 105 threads / inch on the grey machine, the weft yarn density was 90 threads / inch on the grey machine, and the finished effective fabric width was 145 cm.

[0054] The resulting fabric was mercerized (immersed in a 20% caustic soda solution and stretched in the width direction under tension) to obtain a stretch fabric.

[0055] The elongation rate in the weft direction, the elongation recovery rate after 1 hour, and the breathability of the obtained stretch woven fabric were measured. The elongation rate in the weft direction (JIS L1096) was 18.0%, the elongation recovery rate after 1 hour (JIS L1096B method) was 93.2%, and the breathability (JIS L1096) was 63 cm. 3 / cm 2 -seconds.

[0056] The various properties of the stretch fabric of Example 1 are shown below as reference values. Residual formalin value (JIS L1041 acetylacetone method): 32 ppm Slip (JIS L1096B method / 118N): Vertical 1.5mm / Horizontal 2.0mm Tensile strength (JIS L1096A method): Vertical 670N / Horizontal 390N Tear strength (JIS L1096D method): Vertical 3310cN / Horizontal 2370cN Pilling (JIS L1076A-ICI): Surface 4.5 grade / Back 4.5 grade Bending resistance (JIS L1096 Gurley method): Vertical 10.4mN, Horizontal 2.0mN Fabric thickness: 0.37mm ·W&W performance: L1 3.0 class, L10 3.2 class

[0057] <Example 2> A warp yarn of English count 34 (rolling test value 25 times, raw yarn friction resistance value μ 0.360) made of a cotton and polyester blend spun by bundle spinning and a weft yarn of 150 denier polyester filament were used to obtain a warp double weave fabric made of three-way twill weave. The warp yarn density was 98 threads / inch on the grey machine, the weft yarn density was 74 threads / inch on the grey machine, and the finished effective fabric width was 145 cm.

[0058] The resulting fabric was mercerized (immersed in a 20% caustic soda solution and stretched in the width direction under tension) to obtain a stretch fabric.

[0059] The elongation rate in the weft direction, the elongation recovery rate after 1 hour, and the breathability of the obtained stretch woven fabric were measured. The elongation rate in the weft direction (JIS L1096) was 18.5%, the elongation recovery rate after 1 hour (JIS L1096B method) was 92.5%, and the breathability (JIS L1096) was 70 cm 3 / cm 2 -seconds.

[0060] <Example 3> A double warp weave fabric with a four-way twill weave (3 / 1+1 / 3 structure) was obtained using a warp thread made of a blend of 34-count polyester and 40-count cotton yarns and a weft thread made of 150 denier polyester filament. The warp thread density was 168 threads / inch on the grey machine, the weft thread density was 64 threads / inch on the grey machine, and the finished effective fabric width was 143 cm.

[0061] The resulting fabric was mercerized (immersed in a 20% caustic soda solution and stretched in the width direction under tension) to obtain a stretch fabric.

[0062] The elongation rate in the weft direction, the elongation recovery rate after 1 hour, and the breathability of the obtained stretch woven fabric were measured. The elongation rate in the weft direction (JIS L1096) was 16.0%, the elongation recovery rate after 1 hour (JIS L1096B method) was 88.0%, and the breathability (JIS L1096) was 51 cm. 3 / cm 2 -seconds. [Industrial Applicability]

[0063] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a highly breathable stretch fabric having excellent stretchability, high breathability and anti-slip (seam slippage) performance in a warp double weave fabric including a warp yarn made of spun yarn and a weft yarn made of spun yarn or filament yarn, and the highly breathable stretch fabric has extremely high practical value.

Claims

1. A highly breathable stretch fabric of warp double weave, comprising a warp yarn made of spun yarn and a weft yarn made of spun yarn or filament yarn, has a stretch rate in the weft direction of 15% or more, a stretch recovery rate after 1 hour of 70% or more, and a breathability of 50 cm ３ / cm ２ A highly breathable stretch fabric having a stretchability of s or more.

2. 2. The highly breathable stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein the warp yarns are made of yarns spun by bundling spinning.

3. 3. The highly breathable stretch fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that the warp yarn made of the yarn spun by the bundling spinning has a rolling test value of 17 times or more.

4. 4. The highly breathable stretch fabric according to claim 2, wherein the warp yarns made of the yarns spun by the bundling spinning have a raw yarn friction resistance value μ of 0.350 or more.

5. The highly breathable stretch fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the weft yarn is made of polyester filament yarn.

6. The highly breathable stretch fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the warp double weave has a three-way twill, four-way twill, or five-way twill weave.