W / o type composition containing polar and nonpolar waxes
The composition addresses the challenges of comfort, cosmetic effect, and applicability in makeup products by using a combination of oils, waxes, and dispersed aqueous phases in a lipstick formulation, resulting in a smooth, adherent, and durable product.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2023212183
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-15
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-26
AI Technical Summary
Existing makeup products, particularly lipsticks, often fail to provide a comfortable feel and good cosmetic effect while maintaining applicability and freshness on keratinous substances like lips.
A composition comprising a continuous fatty phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, specifically including a range of oils, non-polar waxes with varying melting points, and polar waxes, which provides a balanced texture and adhesion.
The composition offers a comfortable feel with smooth slipperiness, provides uniform coloring for a good makeup effect, maintains appropriate hardness for adhesion, and ensures the lipstick stick remains strong without breaking.
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition suitable for keratinous substances, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a makeup composition, and particularly a lipstick.
Background Art
[0002] Generally, when a makeup product, particularly a lip product such as a lipstick or a lip gloss, is used on a keratinous substance such as the lips, it is preferred that the makeup product provides a comfortable feeling and a good makeup effect on the keratinous substance during and after use.
[0003] WO2018 / 115328 discloses a lipstick in the form of a solid emulsion comprising a continuous fatty phase and a dispersed aqueous phase. This lipstick can provide a fresh feeling during use and give moisture to the lips.
Prior Art Documents
Patent Documents
[0004]
Patent Document 1
Patent Document 2
Patent Document 3
Patent Document 4
Patent Document 5
Patent Document 6
Patent Document 7
Patent Document 8
Patent Document 9
Patent Document 10
[0005] [Non-Patent Document 1] Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press [Non-Patent Document 2] Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27 - 32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics [Non-Patent Document 3] Paper by C.M. Hansen, "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol, 39, p. 105 (1967)
Non-Patent Document 4
Non-Patent Document 5
Non-Patent Document 6
Non-Patent Document 7
Non-Patent Document 8
Summary of the Invention
Problems to be Solved by the Invention
[0006] An object of the present invention is to provide a composition that can bring about a comfortable feel, a good cosmetic effect, and good applicability.
Means for Solving the Problems
[0007] The above object is achieved by (a) (a - 1) at least one oil, (a - 2 - 1 - 1) at least one non - polar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher, (a - 2 - 1 - 2) at least one non - polar wax having a melting point of less than 85°C, and (a2 - 2) at least one polar wax comprising a continuous fatty phase, and (b) (b - 1) water a composition comprising a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, wherein (1) the amount of the non - polar wax (a - 2 - 1 - 1) is 6% to 17% by mass, preferably 8% to 16% by mass, more preferably 10% to 15% by mass based on the total mass of the composition, (2) the mass ratio of the amount of the non - polar wax (a - 2 - 1 - 1) having a melting point of 85°C or higher / the total amount of the non - polar wax (a - 2 - 1 - 1) having a melting point of 85°C or higher, the non - polar wax (a - 2 - 1 - 2) having a melting point of less than 85°C, and the polar wax (a - 2 - 2) is 0.4 or more, preferably 0.5 or more, more preferably 0.6 or more, can be achieved by the composition.
[0008] (a) The oil is (a - 1 - 1) a volatile oil, preferably a volatile non - polar oil, more preferably a volatile non - polar hydrocarbon oil, (a-1-2) A non-volatile oil, preferably a non-volatile non-polar oil, more preferably a non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, and a mixture thereof may be selected.
[0009] The amount of the oil (a-1) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by mass to 45% by mass, preferably 20% by mass to 40% by mass, more preferably 25% by mass to 35% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.
[0010] (a-2-1-1) The non-polar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher may be selected from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably polyolefin waxes, more preferably polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0011] (a-2-2) The polar wax may be selected from polar ester waxes, preferably plant-derived polar ester waxes, more preferably sunflower seed wax, jojoba ester, acacia decurrens flower wax, and mixtures thereof.
[0012] The amount of the polar wax (a-2-2) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 15% by mass, preferably less than 12% by mass, more preferably less than 9% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.
[0013] (a) The fatty phase may further contain (a-3) at least one indene resin selected preferably from hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers.
[0014] The amount of the indene resin (a-3) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.
[0015] (a) The fatty phase may further contain (a-4) at least one film-forming polymer.
[0016] The amount of the (a-4) film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 3% by mass to 15% by mass, more preferably 5% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0017] (b) The aqueous phase may further contain (b-2) at least one hydrophilic thickener.
[0018] The amount of the (b-2) hydrophilic thickener in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0019] The composition according to the present invention may further contain (c) at least one colorant.
[0020] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup composition, more preferably a lipstick.
[0021] When the (a-2) wax is crystallizable, a shear stress may be applied to the composition at the crystallization temperature of the (a-2) wax. The crystallization temperature can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).
[0022] The present invention also relates to a beauty method for making up keratinous substances, which includes the step of applying the composition according to the present invention onto the keratinous substance.
Mode for Carrying Out the Invention
[0023] As a result of intensive studies, the present inventors have found that it is possible to provide a composition that can bring about a comfortable feel, good cosmetic effects, and good applicability.
[0024] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention (a) (a-1)At least one kind of oil, (a-2-1-1)At least one non-polar wax having a melting point of 85 °C or higher, (a-2-1-2)At least one non-polar wax having a melting point of less than 85 °C, and (a2-2)At least one polar wax A continuous fatty phase containing (b) (b-1)Water A composition comprising a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases containing, (1) The amount of the non-polar wax in (a-2-1-1) is 6% by mass to 17% by mass, preferably 8% by mass to 16% by mass, more preferably 10% by mass to 15% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition, (2) The mass ratio of the amount of the non-polar wax having a melting point of 85 °C or higher in (a-2-1-1) / the total amount of the non-polar wax having a melting point of 85 °C or higher in (a-2-1-1), the non-polar wax having a melting point of less than 85 °C in (a-2-1-2), and the polar wax in (a-2-2) is 0.4 or more, preferably 0.5 or more, more preferably 0.6 or more. The composition is as follows.
[0025] The composition according to the present invention can provide a comfortable feeling during use. For example, it can provide a smooth slipperiness and a melting feeling.
[0026] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can provide good cosmetic effects such as uniform coloring. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide a good makeup effect after use.
[0027] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can have an appropriate hardness. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide an appropriate amount of adhesion on keratin substances such as the lips. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide good applicability.
[0028] In addition, when the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a stick, the stick can have sufficient strength not to break when applied on keratin substances such as the lips.
[0029] The composition according to the present invention is suitable for lipsticks.
[0030] Since the composition according to the present invention contains (b-1) water, the composition according to the present invention can provide a fresh feeling during use and impart moisture to keratin substances such as lips.
[0031] Hereinafter, the composition and method according to the present invention will be described in detail.
[0032] [Composition] The composition according to the present invention (a) (a-1) at least one oil, (a-2-1-1) at least one nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher, (a-2-1-2) at least one nonpolar wax having a melting point of less than 85°C, and (a2-2) at least one polar wax comprising a continuous fatty phase, and (b) (b-1) water a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, and is a composition, (1) the amount of the (a-2-1-1) nonpolar wax is 6% to 17% by mass, preferably 8% to 16% by mass, more preferably 10% to 15% by mass based on the total mass of the composition, (2) the mass ratio of the amount of the (a-2-1-1) nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher / the total amount of the (a-2-1-1) nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher, the (a-2-1-2) nonpolar wax having a melting point of less than 85°C, and the (a-2-2) polar wax is 0.4 or more, preferably 0.5 or more, more preferably 0.6 or more, and is a composition.
[0033] In the composition according to the present invention, a plurality of (b) aqueous phases are dispersed in the (a) fatty phase. The (b) aqueous phase is a discontinuous phase, while the (a) fatty phase is a continuous phase. Hereinafter, this form may be referred to as "W / O type".
[0034] Oil The composition according to the invention comprises (a-1) at least one oil. When two or more (a-1) oils are used, they may be the same or different.
[0035] (a-1) The oil may be present in the (a) fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.
[0036] As used herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or fatty substance in liquid or paste (non-solid) form at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0037] (a-1) The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil, a polar oil such as a vegetable oil or an animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil, or a mixture thereof.
[0038] (a-1) The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.
[0039] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, southernwood oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0040] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0041] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0042] The ester oil is preferably a liquid ester of a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 aliphatic monoacid or polyacid and a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 aliphatic monohydric alcohol or polyhydric alcohol, and the total number of carbon atoms of the ester is 10 or more.
[0043] Preferably, in the case of an ester of a monohydric alcohol, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the ester of the present invention is derived is branched.
[0044] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monohydric alcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristate, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate can be mentioned.
[0045] In addition, esters of C4-C 22 dicarboxylic acid or tricarboxylic acid and C1-C 22 alcohol, and esters of monocarboxylic acid, dicarboxylic acid or tricarboxylic acid and non-sugar C4-C 26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohol may also be used.
[0046] Particularly mentionable are diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0047] As the ester oil, C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 -C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids can be used. The term "sugar" is recalled to mean an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound containing several alcohol functional groups and at least 4 carbon atoms, regardless of the presence or absence of an aldehyde or ketone functional group. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0048] Examples of suitable sugars that can be mentioned include sucrose (or cane sugar), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, for example methyl glucose.
[0049] Sugar esters of fatty acids can be selected, inter alia, from the group comprising esters or ester mixtures of the aforementioned sugars with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. When they are unsaturated, these compounds can have 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0050] The esters according to this variant form can also be selected from mono-esters, di-esters, tri-esters, tetra-esters and poly-esters, and mixtures thereof.
[0051] These esters can be, for example, oleic acid esters, lauric acid esters, palmitic acid esters, myristic acid esters, behenic acid esters, coconut fatty acid esters, stearic acid esters, linoleic acid esters, linolenic acid esters, capric acid esters and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitic acid, oleostearic acid, and palmitostearic acid, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.
[0052] More specifically, mono-esters and di-esters, in particular mono-oleic acid esters or di-oleic acid esters, stearic acid esters, behenic acid esters, oleopalmitic acid esters, linoleic acid esters, linolenic acid esters and oleostearic acid esters of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose are used.
[0053] An example that can be cited is the product sold by Amerchol under the name Glucate(®)DO, which is methylglucose dioleate.
[0054] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, cocoalkyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0055] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, caprylic / capric glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(capric / caprylic) and glyceryl tri(capric / caprylic / linolenic).
[0056] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, etc., cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc., and mixtures thereof.
[0057] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.
[0058] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used in the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and containing one or more organic functional groups bonded via hydrocarbon-based groups in their structures.
[0059] Organopolysiloxanes are more specifically defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0060] When they are volatile, the silicones are more specifically selected from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more specifically selected from the following: (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 or by Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V2, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 or by Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V5, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the name Silsoft 1217, and mixtures thereof. Cyclocopolymers of the type dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, for example, Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide having the following formula, can also be mentioned:
[0061]
Chem.
[0062] Mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, such as a mixture (50 / 50) of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane can also be mentioned. (ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of 5×10 -6 m 2 / s or less at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, which is sold under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone Co., Ltd. in particular. Silicones belonging to this classification are also described in the paper published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27 - 32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicone is measured at 25°C in accordance with ASTM Standard D445 Appendix C.
[0063] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups can be mainly mentioned.
[0064] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercially available products can be mentioned non-limitingly: - The 47 and 70047 series of Silbione® oils or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example, the 70047 V 500000 oil, - Oils of the Mirasil® series sold by Rhodia, - Oils of the 200 series manufactured by Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s, and - Viscasil® oils manufactured by General Electric, and certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).
[0065] Polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known by the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as oils of the 48 series manufactured by Rhodia, can also be mentioned.
[0066] Among silicones containing aryl groups, polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenyl silicone oils, can be mentioned.
[0067] Phenyl silicone oils have the following formula:
[0068]
Chemical formula
[0069] (wherein, R1 to R 10 are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C 30 hydrocarbon-based groups, preferably C1-C 12 hydrocarbon-based groups, more preferably C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based groups, especially methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl groups, m, n, p and q are, independently of one another, integers from 0 to 900 including both ends, preferably integers from 0 to 500 including both ends, more preferably integers from 0 to 100 including both ends, provided that the sum n + m + q is other than 0) and may be selected from phenyl silicones.
[0070] Examples that can be cited include products sold under the following names: - The 70 641 series of Silbione® oil manufactured by Rhodia, - The oils of the 70 633 and 763 series of Rhodorsil® manufactured by Rhodia, - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil manufactured by Dow Corning, - The PK series of silicones manufactured by Bayer, such as product PK20, - Specific oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0071] As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyltrimethicone (in the above formula, R1 to R 10 are methyl, p, q and n = 0, and m = 1) is preferred.
[0072] The organically modified liquid silicone may contain, among other things, polyethyleneoxy groups and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Therefore, silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and Silwet® L722 oil and L77 oil manufactured by Union Carbide can be cited.
[0073] The hydrocarbon oil can be selected from the following: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6 - C 16 lower alkanes. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, such as isoparaffin, isododecane and isodecane. - Linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and squalane.
[0074] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0075] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.
[0076] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH (wherein R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms). In at least one embodiment, R is C 12 ~C 20 alkyl group and C 12 ~C 20 alkenyl group. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0077] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0078] The fatty alcohol is preferably a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0079] Therefore, the aliphatic alcohol can be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C6-C 30 alcohols, more preferably linear or branched, saturated C 12 -C 20 alcohols.
[0080] The term "saturated aliphatic alcohol" as used herein means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. The saturated aliphatic alcohol is preferably selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6-C 30 aliphatic alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C 30 aliphatic alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C 12 -C 20 aliphatic alcohols can preferably be used. Any linear or branched saturated C 16 -C 20 aliphatic alcohols can more preferably be used. Branched C 16 -C 20 aliphatic alcohols can even more preferably be used.
[0081] Examples of saturated aliphatic alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) and behenyl alcohol can be used as the saturated aliphatic alcohol.
[0082] According to at least one embodiment, the aliphatic alcohol used in the composition according to the invention is preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0083] It is also preferable that the oil in (a-1) is selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.
[0084] Preferably, the oil in (a-1) has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g / mol and has one or more short hydrocarbon chains (C1-C 12 ) and is selected from ester oils (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated aliphatic alcohols (C 12 -C 30 ) type oils, such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils, such as dicaprylyl ether.
[0085] It is preferable that the oil in (a-1) is selected from volatile oils, non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0086] In one embodiment, the oil in (a-1) is as follows: (a-1-1) A volatile oil, preferably a volatile non-polar oil, more preferably a volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, such as isododecane and isohexadecane, (a-1-2) A non-volatile oil, preferably a non-volatile non-polar oil, more preferably a non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, such as hydrogenated polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof and may be selected from.
[0087] The amount of the oil in (a-1) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by mass or more, preferably 20% by mass or more, more preferably 25% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0088] The amount of the oil in (a-1) in the composition according to the present invention may be 45% by mass or less, preferably 40% by mass or less, more preferably 35% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0089] The amount of the (a-1) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by mass to 45% by mass, preferably 20% by mass to 40% by mass, more preferably 25% by mass to 35% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0090] In some preferred cases, the composition according to the present invention may preferably contain a limited amount of silicone oil, for example, 5% by mass or less, 3% by mass or less, and 1% or less, based on the total mass of the composition. In more preferred cases, the composition according to the present invention may not contain silicone oil.
[0091] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention lacks silicone oil. In other words, in some particularly preferred cases, the composition according to the present invention does not contain silicone oil.
[0092] (Non-polar wax) The composition according to the present invention contains at least two (a-2-1) non-polar waxes, namely, (a-2-1-1) at least one non-polar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher (hereinafter, may be referred to as a non-polar wax having a (a-2-1-1) high melting point), and (a-2-1-2) at least one non-polar wax having a melting point of less than 85°C (hereinafter, may be referred to as a non-polar wax having a (a-2-1-2) low melting point) and contains.
[0093] (a-2-1) The non-polar wax may be present in the (a) fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0094] The term "wax" as used in the present invention is understood to mean a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), has a reversible solid / liquid state change, and has a melting point of 30°C or higher.
[0095] In this specification, the melting point of the wax means the temperature at which the entire wax melts.
[0096] (a-2-1-1) It may be preferable that the nonpolar wax having a high melting point has a melting point of 85°C to 130°C, preferably 85°C to 125°C, more preferably 85°C to 120°C.
[0097] (a-2-1-2) It may be preferable that the nonpolar wax having a low melting point has a melting point of 35°C to 80°C, preferably 40°C to 75°C, more preferably 45°C to 70°C.
[0098] (a-2-1) The nonpolar wax may be crystalline, and thus, (a-2-1) the nonpolar wax can form crystals at the crystallization temperature. Therefore, the crystallization of (a-2-1) the nonpolar wax can start at the crystallization temperature. The crystallization temperature can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, a calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by Mettler.
[0099] In the context of the present invention, the term "nonpolar" wax means a wax having a solubility parameter δ at 25°C defined as follows a equal to 0 (J / cm 3 )1 / 2.
[0100] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameter in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the paper "The three-dimensional solubility parameters" by C.M. Hansen, J. Paint Technol, 39, page 105 (1967).
[0101] According to this Hansen space, - δ D characterizes the London dispersion force resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions, - δ p characterizes the Debye interaction force between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction force between an induced dipole and a permanent dipole, - δ hcharacterizes a specific interaction force (e.g., acid / base, donor / acceptor, hydrogen bond, etc.), - δ a is given by the formula: δ a =(δ p 2 +δ h 2 )1 / 2.
[0102] The parameter δ p , δ h , δ D and δ a are expressed in (J / cm 3 )1 / 2.
[0103] (a-2-1) The nonpolar wax (regardless of whether the nonpolar wax has a high melting point or a low melting point) may be of plant, mineral, animal, or synthetic origin.
[0104] (a-2-1) The nonpolar wax can be selected particularly from hydrocarbon waxes composed only of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and lacking heteroatoms such as N, O, Si, and P.
[0105] (a-2-1) Examples of the nonpolar wax include hydrocarbon waxes such as polyolefin waxes, for example, polyethylene wax and polypropylene wax, microcrystalline waxes, synthetic waxes, paraffin waxes, and ozokerite.
[0106] (a-2-1-1) The nonpolar wax having a high melting point may be selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably polyolefin waxes, more preferably polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0107] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyethylene wax. Examples of polyethylene waxes that can be mentioned include Asensa® SC 211 sold by Honeywell, Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies.
[0108] The polyethylene wax may be in powder form. Examples of such powdered waxes include polyethylene micro waxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by Micro Powders.
[0109] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one microcrystalline wax. Examples of microcrystalline waxes that can be used include Multiwax W 445® sold by Sonneborn, and Micro wax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by Paramelt.
[0110] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one synthetic wax. The synthetic wax can be obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch process. Therefore, the synthetic wax can be a Fischer-Tropsch wax. An example of the synthetic wax is CireWax 90 manufactured by DKSH Japan.
[0111] (a-2-1-2) The non-polar wax having a low melting point can be selected from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably polyolefin waxes, more preferably paraffin waxes, ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.
[0112] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one paraffin wax. Typically, the paraffin wax is a C 16 ~C 40 hydrocarbon, preferably a linear C 16 ~C 40 hydrocarbon, more preferably a linear C 20 ~C 40 hydrocarbon. The molecular weight of the paraffin wax may be 300 to 550.
[0113] Examples of ozokerite include those sold under the name Ozokerite Wax Pastilles SP 1021 P.
[0114] The amount of the non-polar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher in the composition according to the present invention is 6% by mass or more, preferably 8% by mass or more, more preferably 10% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0115] The amount of the non-polar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher in the composition according to the present invention is 17% by mass or less, preferably 16% by mass or less, more preferably 15% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0116] The amount of the non-polar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher in the composition according to the present invention is 6% by mass to 17% by mass, preferably 8% by mass to 16% by mass, more preferably 10% by mass to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0117] The amount of the non-polar wax having a melting point of less than 85°C in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, more preferably 1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0118] The amount of the nonpolar wax having a melting point of less than 85°C in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0119] The amount of the nonpolar wax having a melting point of less than 85°C in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 1% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0120] The mass ratio of the amount of the nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher in the composition according to the present invention / the total amount of the nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher, the nonpolar wax having a melting point of less than 85°C, and the polar wax (a-2-2) described below is 0.4 or more, preferably 0.5 or more, more preferably 0.6 or more.
[0121] (Polar wax) The composition according to the present invention contains (a-2-2) at least one polar wax. When two or more (a-2-2) polar waxes are used, they may be the same or different.
[0122] (a-2-2) The polar wax may be present in the (a) fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0123] The term "wax" is understood to mean, in the context of the present invention, a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), has a reversible solid / liquid state change, and has a melting point of 30°C or higher.
[0124] The melting point of the wax, as used herein, means the temperature at which the entire wax melts.
[0125] In particular, the (a-2-2) polar wax may have a melting point of 50°C to 120°C, preferably 60°C to 110°C, more preferably 70°C to 100°C.
[0126] (a-2-2) polar wax may be crystalline, and thus, (a-2-2) polar wax can form crystals at the crystallization temperature. Therefore, the crystallization of (a-2-2) polar wax can start at the crystallization temperature. The crystallization temperature can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, a calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by Mettler.
[0127] (a-2-2) polar wax may be of plant, mineral, animal or synthetic origin.
[0128] It is preferable that (a-2-2) polar wax is essentially formed of or even composed of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and has a chemical structure containing at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
[0129] In the context of the present invention, the term "polar wax" means a wax having a solubility parameter δ a at 25 °C that is other than 0 (J / cm 3 )1 / 2.
[0130] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameter in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the paper "The three-dimensional solubility parameters" by C.M. Hansen, J. Paint Technol, 39, page 105 (1967).
[0131] According to this Hansen space, - δ D characterizes the London dispersion force resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions, - δ p characterizes the Debye interaction force between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction force between an induced dipole and a permanent dipole, - δ h characterizes specific interaction forces (such as acid / base, donor / acceptor, hydrogen bonding, etc.). - δ a is defined by the formula: δ a =(δ p 2 +δ h 2 )1 / 2.
[0132] The parameter δ p , δ h , δ D and δ a are expressed in (J / cm 3 )1 / 2.
[0133] (a-2-2) The polar wax may be, inter alia, a hydrocarbon, fluorinated or silicone wax. The term "hydrocarbon wax" means a wax consisting essentially of, or even composed of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms whatsoever. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. The term "fluorinated wax" means a wax containing at least one fluorine atom, and especially at least one perfluoro group. The term "silicone wax" means a wax containing at least one silicon atom, and especially a Si-O group.
[0134] According to a preferred embodiment, the (a-2-2) polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax.
[0135] As the polar hydrocarbon wax, a wax selected from ester wax and alcohol wax is particularly preferred.
[0136] According to the present invention, the expression "ester wax" is understood to mean a wax containing at least one ester functional group.
[0137] According to the present invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax containing at least one alcohol functional group, i.e., at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
[0138] The following can be used particularly as ester waxes: - Ester waxes, for example, those selected from the following: i) A wax of the formula R1COOR2 (wherein R1 and R2 represent a linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain, the number of atoms thereof varies from 10 to 50, may contain heteroatoms such as O, N or P, and its melting point varies from 25°C to 120°C). In particular, as the ester wax, (hydroxystearyloxy)stearic acid C 20 ~C 40 alkyl (alkyl group containing 20 to 40 carbon atoms), or stearic acid C 20 ~C 40 alkyl can be used. Such waxes are sold, inter alia, by Koster Keunen under the names Kester Wax K 82 P (registered trademark), Hydroxypolyester K 82 P (registered trademark), Kester Wax K 80 P (registered trademark) or Kester Wax K82H.
[0139] Glycol montanate (octacosanoic acid) and butylene glycol, for example, the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by Clariant can also be used.
[0140] ii) Bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold by Heterene under the name Hest 2T-4S (registered trademark).
[0141] iii) General formula R 3 -(-OCO-R 4 -COO-R 5 )(wherein R 3 and R 5are the same or different, preferably the same, C4-C 30 represents an alkyl group (alkyl group containing 4 to 30 carbon atoms), and R 4 represents a linear or branched C4-C 30 aliphatic group (alkyl group containing 4 to 30 carbon atoms), which may or may not contain one or more unsaturated groups) is a diester wax of a dicarboxylic acid. Preferably, C4-C 30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.
[0142] iv) Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having a linear or branched C8-C 32 fatty chain, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated palm oil, etc. Furthermore, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol can also be mentioned, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64 (registered trademark) and 22L73 (registered trademark) by Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2 792 190. Examples of waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol include those sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57.
[0143] v) Also, bead wax, synthetic bead wax, polyglycerolized bead wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, oricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumach wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, and hydrogenated jojoba wax can also be mentioned.
[0144] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention contains polar waxes derived from plants, such as jojoba ester, sunflower seed wax, and acacia flower wax.
[0145] According to another embodiment, (a-2-2) the polar wax may be an alcohol wax.
[0146] Examples of alcohol waxes that can be mentioned include, for example, Wax Performacol 550-L Alcohol manufactured by New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol, and cetyl alcohol.
[0147] (a-2-2) The polar wax may be a silicone wax, for example, a silicone-treated bead wax. However, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention lacks any silicone wax.
[0148] In particular, (a-2-2) the polar wax can be selected from polar ester waxes, preferably polar ester waxes derived from plants, more preferably jojoba ester, sunflower seed wax, acacia flower wax, and mixtures thereof.
[0149] The amount of (a-2-2) polar wax in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0150] The amount of (a-2-2) polar wax in the composition according to the present invention is 15% by mass or less, preferably 12% by mass or less, more preferably less than 9% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0151] The amount of (a-2-2) polar wax in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% by mass to less than 15% by mass, preferably from 0.05% by mass to less than 12% by mass, more preferably from 0.1% by mass to less than 9% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0152] (Indene resin) The composition according to the present invention may contain (a-3) at least one indene resin. When two or more (a-3) indene resins are used, they may be the same or different.
[0153] (a-3) The indene resin may be present in the (a) fatty phase.
[0154] (a-3) The indene resin can function as a lipophilic thickener.
[0155] According to the present invention, the "lipophilic thickener" can increase the viscosity of the (a) fatty phase, and at room temperature (25 ° C), atmospheric pressure and a shear rate of 1 s -1 (the viscosity may be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer, etc.), and is introduced into the (a) fatty phase up to at least 20 cps, preferably up to at least 50 cps.
[0156] Preferably, the hydrocarbon resin has a number average molecular weight of 10,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 5000 g / mol, more preferably 2000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 2000 g / mol.
[0157] The number average molecular weight (Mn) is determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established using linear polystyrene standard substances, refractive index detector).
[0158] (a-3) The indene resin means at least a resin derived from indene. The (a-3) indene resin may be a homopolymer of indene or a copolymer of indene and any optional comonomer. The comonomer is preferably selected from polymerizable hydrocarbons, preferably hydrocarbons having at least one carbon-carbon double bond.
[0159] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units are derived from compounds known as monomers). This or these units are repeated at least twice, preferably at least three times.
[0160] (a-3) The indene resin can be selected from indene hydrocarbon resins.
[0161] The indene hydrocarbon resin can be derived from the polymerization of mostly indene monomers with styrene, methyl indene, and methyl styrene, and a small amount of hydrocarbon monomers selected from these and their mixtures. These resins may optionally be hydrogenated. These resins can have a molecular weight in the range of 290 to 1150 g / mol. Examples of indene resins that can be mentioned include those sold under the name Escorez 7105 by Exxon Chem., under the names Nevchem 100 and Nevex 100 by Neville Chem., under the name Norsolene S105 by Sartomer, under the name Picco 6100 by Hercules, and under the name Resinall by Resinall Corp., or hydrogenated styrene / methyl styrene / indene copolymers sold under the name "Regalite" by Eastman Chemical, particularly Regalite R1100, Regalite R1090, Regalite R7100, Regalite R1010 hydrocarbon resin, and Regalite R1125 hydrocarbon resin.
[0162] According to a preferred embodiment, the resin is selected from hydrogenated styrene / methyl styrene / indene copolymers, i.e., hydrogenated copolymers of styrene, methyl styrene, and indene.
[0163] In particular, hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers, such as those sold by Eastman Chemical under the name Regalite, such as Regalite R1100, Regalite R1090, Regalite R7100, Regalite R1010 hydrocarbon resin, and Regalite R1125 hydrocarbon resin, can be used.
[0164] The amount of the (a-3) indene resin in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0165] The amount of the (a-3) indene resin in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0166] The amount of the (a-3) indene resin in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0167] (Film-forming polymer) The composition according to the present invention may contain (a-4) at least one film-forming polymer. When two or more (a-4) film-forming polymers are used, they may be the same or different.
[0168] The (a-4) film-forming polymer is different from the (a-3) indene resin.
[0169] The (a-4) film-forming polymer may be lipophilic and may be present in the (a) fatty phase.
[0170] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units, these units being derived from compounds known as monomers. This or these units are repeated at least twice, preferably at least three times.
[0171] The term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming a film having adhesion and mechanical properties such that, by itself or in the presence of a film-forming aid, a macroscopically continuous film, preferably an adherent film, more preferably an adherent film, for example, is deposited on a support, in particular on a keratinous substance, for example, when the film is prepared by pouring it onto a non-stick surface, for example a Teflon®-coated or silicone-coated surface, the film is separable and operable in the separated state.
[0172] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-4) film-forming polymer may be selected from the group comprising: - A film-forming polymer soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular a fat-soluble polymer (this means that the polymer forms a single homogeneous phase when it is soluble or miscible in an organic medium and incorporated into the medium). - A film-forming polymer dispersible in an organic solvent medium (this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in the organic medium and maintains stability and / or compatibility when the polymer is incorporated into this medium. In particular, such polymers may be in the form of a non-aqueous dispersion of polymer particles, preferably a dispersion in a silicone-based oil or a hydrocarbon-based oil. In one embodiment, the non-aqueous dispersion of the polymer comprises polymer particles stabilized by at least one stabilizer on its surface, and these non-aqueous dispersions are often referred to as "NAD"). - A film-forming polymer in the form of an aqueous dispersion of polymer particles (this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in water, the polymer maintains stability and / or compatibility when incorporated into water, and the polymer particles may be stabilized by at least one stabilizer on their surface. These polymer particles are often referred to as "latex", and in this case, the composition must contain an aqueous phase).
[0173] Preferably, the (a-4) film-forming polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyamide-silicone block polymers, ethylenic block polymers, vinyl polymers containing at least one carboxyoxane dendrimer derivative, copolymers containing carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups, silicone resins, oil-dispersible polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, amorphous olefin copolymers and olefin copolymers with controlled moderate crystallization, hydrocarbon resins having a number average molecular weight of 10,000 g / ml or less, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from silicone resins.
[0174] (a-4) The film-forming polymer may be any silicone resin having film-forming properties.
[0175] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-4) film-forming polymer may be selected from silsesquioxanes, siloxysilicates, and resins obtained by hydroxysilylation.
[0176] The nomenclature of silicone resins is known in the art by the name of the "MDTQ" nomenclature. According to the "MDTQ" nomenclature, silicone resins are described by the various repeating siloxane monomer moieties that make up the polymer. Each of the letters in "MDTQ" corresponds to a different type of moiety.
[0177] The symbol "M" represents a monofunctional moiety (CH3)3SiO 1 / 2It corresponds to. This part is considered monofunctional because the silicon atom shares only one oxygen for chain formation. The "M" part can be represented by the following structure:
[0178] [Chemical formula]
[0179] At least one of the methyl groups may be replaced, thereby generating a part having, for example, the following formula: [R(CH3)2]SiO 1 / 2 and having a structure such as the following:
[0180] [Chemical formula]
[0181] (wherein R is other than a methyl group).
[0182] The symbol "D" corresponds to a difunctional part (CH3)SiO 2 / 2 (wherein two of the available bonds of the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain). The "D" part is an essential component of dimethicone oil and can be represented by the following formula:
[0183] [Chemical formula]
[0184] The symbol "T" corresponds to a trifunctional part (CH3)SiO 3 / 2 (wherein three of the available bonds of the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain). The "T" part can be represented by the following structure:
[0185] [Chemical formula]
[0186] In the case of the "M" moiety, in the "D" or "T", any one of the methyl groups may be replaced by an R group other than methyl.
[0187] Finally, the symbol "Q" corresponds to a tetrafunctional moiety SiO 4 / 2 (wherein all four available bonds of the silicon atom are used to bond to oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain). The "Q" moiety can be represented by the following structure:
[0188]
Chemical formula
[0189] As described above, in one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-4) film-forming polymer may be selected from siloxysilicates, silsesquioxanes, and resins obtained by hydroxysilylation. Any siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane, or resin obtained by hydroxysilylation that acts as a film-forming polymer can be used in the composition of the present invention. Preferably, the (a-4) film-forming polymer, such as a silicone resin, is crosslinked.
[0190] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-4) film-forming polymer may be selected from substituted siloxysilicates, silsesquioxanes, and resins obtained by hydroxysilylation. The substituted siloxysilicate or substituted silsesquioxane may be, for example, a siloxysilicate or silsesquioxane in which a methyl group is replaced by a longer carbon chain, such as an ethane, propane, or butane chain. The carbon chain may be saturated or unsaturated.
[0191] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-4) film-forming polymer is a siloxysilicate, for example, the following formula: [(CH3)3SiO 1 / 2 x (SiO 4 / 2 ) y (MQ moiety) It may be selected from MQ resins represented by (wherein x and y may have values in the range of 20 to 100, preferably 50 to 80).
[0192] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the siloxysilicate is all combinations of M and Q moieties, for example, [(R)3Si] x (SiO 4 / 2 ) y (wherein R is selected from a methyl group and longer carbon chains) and the like may be selected.
[0193] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the (a-4) film-forming polymer has the following formula: (CH3SiO 3 / 2 ) x (T moiety) (wherein x may have a value in the range of up to several thousand, and CH3 may be replaced by R, for example, those described above for the T moiety) and may be selected from silsesquioxanes represented by.
[0194] Most preferably, the (a-4) film-forming polymer is, for example, trimethylsiloxysilicate sold under the name SR 1000 MQ resin by Momentive Performance Materials.
[0195] The amount of the (a-4) film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by mass or more, preferably 3% by mass or more, more preferably 5% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0196] The amount of the (a-4) film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 15% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0197] The amount of the (a-4) film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 3% by mass to 15% by mass, more preferably 5% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0198] (Water) The composition according to the present invention contains (b-1) water.
[0199] (b-1) Water may be present in the (b) aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0200] The amount of (b-1) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by mass or more, preferably 10% by mass or more, more preferably 15% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0201] The amount of (b-1) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 35% by mass or less, preferably 30% by mass or less, more preferably 25% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0202] The amount of (b-1) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by mass to 35% by mass, preferably 10% by mass to 30% by mass, more preferably 15% by mass to 25% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0203] (Hydrophilic thickener) The composition according to the present invention may contain (b-2) at least one hydrophilic thickener. When two or more (b-2) hydrophilic thickeners are used, they may be the same or different.
[0204] (b-2) The hydrophilic thickener may be present in the (b) aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0205] According to the present invention, the "hydrophilic thickener" can increase the viscosity of the (b) aqueous phase, and at room temperature (25 °C), atmospheric pressure and a shear rate of 1 s -1 (The viscosity may be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer, etc.) is introduced into the (b) aqueous phase up to at least 20 cps, preferably up to at least 50 cps.
[0206] (b-2) The hydrophilic thickener is preferably selected from non-associative thickening polymers having sugar units, non-associative thickening polymers having no sugar units, associative thickening polymers, and mixtures of these compounds.
[0207] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" means an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound containing several alcohol functional groups, having or not having an aldehyde or ketone functional group, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms.
[0208] The sugar unit may optionally be modified by substitution and / or oxidation and / or dehydration.
[0209] The sugar units that may be included in the composition of the hydrophilic thickening polymer of the present invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, galactose anhydride, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, galactose anhydride sulfate, and fructose.
[0210] Examples of non-associative thickening polymers include hyaluronic acid and its salts, such as sodium hyaluronate.
[0211] Non-associative thickening polymers having sugar units that can be specifically mentioned include natural rubbers such as the following. a) Extracts of tall or low trees containing the following: - Gum arabic (a branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, and glucuronic acid); - Ghatti gum (a polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose, and glucuronic acid); - Karaya gum (a polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose, and glucuronic acid); - Tragacanth gum (or tragacanth) (a polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose, and arabinose); b) Rubber obtained from algae, including the following: - Agar (a polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - Alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - Carrageenans and furcellarans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); c) Gums derived from seeds or tubers, including the following: - Guar gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Locust bean gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Kolanut gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Tamarind gum (a polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - Konjac gum (a polymer of glucose and mannose); d) Microbial gums, including the following: - Xanthan gum (a polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvate and glucuronic acid); - Gellan gum (a polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - Scleroglucan gum (a glucose polymer); e) Plant extracts, including the following: - Cellulose (a glucose polymer); - Starch (a glucose polymer) and - Inulin.
[0212] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. Physical treatments include, in particular, raising the temperature.
[0213] Chemical treatments that can be cited include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments can result in polymers that can be, inter alia, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.
[0214] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gum, locust bean gum, starch, and cellulose.
[0215] The nonionic guar gum that can be used according to the present invention can be modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.
[0216] Among the C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, for example, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl groups can be mentioned.
[0217] These guar gums are well-known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting a corresponding alkene oxide, such as propylene oxide, with guar gum to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
[0218] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present in the guar gum.
[0219] Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, and Jaguar HP120 by Rhodia Chimie.
[0220] The origin plants of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention can be grains or tubers. Thus, the starch is selected from, for example, corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, and pea starch.
[0221] Starches can be chemically or physically modified, in particular, by one or more of the following reactions: alpha modification, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatment.
[0222] Diphosphated starch, or a compound rich in diphosphated starch, such as products sold by Avebe under the name Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava diphosphated starch), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava diphosphated starch), and Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassava diphosphated starch), or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn diphosphated starch), will be preferentially used.
[0223] According to the present invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, and these amphoteric starches contain one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic groups and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reaction site or different reaction sites of the starch molecule; preferably, they are bonded to the same reaction site. The anionic group can be of the carboxyl, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably of the carboxyl type. The cationic group can be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
[0224] The starch molecule can particularly be derived from any plant starch source such as corn, potato, wheat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or rye. It is also possible to use the hydrolyzates of the starches mentioned above. The starch is preferably derived from potato.
[0225] The non-associative thickening polymer of the present invention can be a cellulose-based polymer that does not contain a C 10 ~C 30 fatty chain.
[0226] According to the present invention, the term "cellulose-based polymer" means any polysaccharide compound having a sequence of glucose residues linked together via β-1,4 linkages in its structure, and in addition to unsubstituted cellulose, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.
[0227] Accordingly, the cellulose polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be selected from unsubstituted cellulose in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.
[0228] Among these cellulosic polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ester ethers are well known.
[0229] Among cellulose esters, there are inorganic cellulose esters (such as cellulose nitrate, sulfate, phosphate, etc.), organic cellulose esters (such as cellulose monoacetate, triacetate, amidopropionate, acetate butyrate, acetate propionate, and acetate trimellitate, etc.), and organic / inorganic mixed esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetate butyrate sulfate and cellulose acetate propionate sulfate. Among cellulose ester ethers, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalate and ethylcellulose sulfate can be mentioned.
[0230] C 10 ~C 30Among nonionic cellulose ethers that do not contain a fatty chain, i.e., are "non-associative", there are (C1-C4) alkyl celluloses such as methyl cellulose and ethyl cellulose (e.g., Ethocel standard 100 Premium manufactured by Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4) alkyl celluloses such as hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR manufactured by Aqualon) and hydroxypropyl cellulose (e.g., Klucel EF manufactured by Aqualon); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4) alkyl(C1-C4) alkyl mixed celluloses such as hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (e.g., Methocel E4M manufactured by Dow Chemical); hydroxyethyl methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose (e.g., Bermocoll E 481 FQ manufactured by Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutyl methyl cellulose.
[0231] Among anionic cellulose ethers that do not have a fatty chain, there are (poly)carboxy(C1-C4) alkyl celluloses and their salts. Examples include carboxymethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl methyl cellulose (e.g., Blanose 7M manufactured by Aqualon) and carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, as well as their sodium salts.
[0232] Among the cationic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, cationic cellulose derivatives, for example, those grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, in particular cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives as described in Patent US 4,131,576, such as, in particular, (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcellulose grafted with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salts, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcellulose, can be mentioned. Commercially available products corresponding to this definition are, more specifically, products sold under the names Celquat L 200 (registered trademark) and Celquat H 100 (registered trademark) by National Starch.
[0233] Among the non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units that may be used according to the present invention, crosslinked acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers, or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide can be mentioned, either alone or as mixtures thereof.
[0234] A first family of non-associative thickening polymers suitable for use is represented by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
[0235] Among homopolymers of this type, those crosslinked with a sugar-based allyl alcohol ether, for example, products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by Noveon, or products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3 VSA, can be mentioned. These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer.
[0236] Alternatively, the non - associative thickening polymer can be a cross - linked (meth) acrylic acid copolymer, for example, a polymer sold under the name Aqua SF1 by Noveon.
[0237] Furthermore, examples of the (b - 2) hydrophilic thickening agent include the following: Cross - linked (meth) acrylic acid or (meth) acrylate polymers, preferably cross - linked homopolymers or copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and / or (meth) acrylate, more preferably sodium polyacrylate cross - linked polymers, for example, those sold under the names Octacare X100, X110, and RM100 by Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280, and Luquasorb 1100 by BASF, those sold under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 by Grain Processing (INCI name: acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer), or Aqua Keep 10 SH NF supplied by Sumitomo Seika Chemical Co., Ltd., or Aqupec MG N40R supplied by Sumitomo Seika Chemical Co., Ltd.
[0238] The non - associative thickening polymer can be selected from cross - linked 2 - acrylamido - 2 - methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and cross - linked acrylamide copolymers thereof.
[0239] Among the partially or fully neutralized cross - linked copolymers of 2 - acrylamido - 2 - methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide, in particular, the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853 can be mentioned, and reference can be made to said document regarding these polymers.
[0240] The composition can also contain, as the non - associative thickening polymer, ammonium acrylate homopolymer or a copolymer of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide.
[0241] Among the ammonium acrylate homopolymers that can be listed, there is a product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by Hoechst. Among the copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide that can be listed, there is a product sold under the name Bozepol C Nouveau by Hoechst or product PAS 5193. For the description and preparation of such compounds, reference may be made in particular to FR 2 416 723, US 2,798,053 and US 2,923,692.
[0242] Also, an acrylic type cationic thickening polymer may be used.
[0243] Also, among the hydrophilic thickening polymers, associative polymers that are well-known to those skilled in the art, in particular, nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature, may be mentioned.
[0244] It is recalled that an associative polymer is a polymer that can reversibly associate with each other or with other molecules in an aqueous medium.
[0245] Their chemical structure more specifically includes at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.
[0246] The term "hydrophobic group" means a group or polymer having a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0247] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from an aliphatic alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. This may also indicate a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for example, polybutadiene.
[0248] Among the anionic type associative polymers that can be listed are the following: (a) Those containing at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain allyl ether unit. More specifically, those in which the hydrophilic unit is composed of an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more specifically a vinyl carboxylic acid, and most specifically acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or a mixture thereof. Among these anionic associative polymers, those particularly preferred according to the present invention are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by mass of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5% to 60% by mass of lower alkyl (meth)acrylate, 2% to 50% by mass of fatty chain allyl ether, and 0 to 1% by mass of a crosslinking agent, which are well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomers, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylene bisacrylamide. Among the latter polymers, those particularly most preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and polyethylene glycol (10OE) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10), especially those sold under the names Salcare SC80 (registered trademark) and Salcare SC90 (registered trademark) by CIBA, which are aqueous 30% emulsions of crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and Steareth 10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).
[0249] (b) (i) At least one hydrophilic unit of the unsaturated olefin carboxylic acid type and (ii) those containing at least one hydrophobic unit of (C 10 ~C 30 ) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids. The (C 10 ~C 30)The alkyl esters include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate. This type of anionic polymer is described and prepared, for example, according to US Patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949. Among this type of anionic associative polymer to be used in more detail, those composed of 95% to 60% by mass of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by mass of C 10 ~C 30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by mass of a crosslinkable monomer, or alternatively, those composed of 98% to 96% by mass of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by mass of C 10 ~C 30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by mass of a crosslinkable monomer such as the above. Among the above polymers, the particularly most preferred ones according to the present invention are products sold under the trade names Pemulen TR1 (registered trademark), Pemulen TR2 (registered trademark), Carbopol 1382 (registered trademark) by Goodrich, and more preferentially products sold under the trade name Pemulen TR1 (registered trademark), and products sold under the name Coatex SX (registered trademark) by SEPPIC. Mention may also be made of the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer sold under the name Acrylidone LM by ISP. (c) Maleic anhydride / C 30 ~C 38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, for example, products sold under the name Performa V1608 (registered trademark) by NewPhase Technologies (maleic anhydride / C 30 ~C 38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer).
[0250] (d) An acrylic terpolymer comprising the following: i) About 20% to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A], ii) About 20% to 80% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated non-surfactant monomer other than [A], iii) About 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane which is a product of the reaction of a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate with a monohydric surfactant, For example, those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109, more particularly the terpolymer described in Example 3, namely the methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / behenyl alcohol dimethyl-meth-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate ethoxylated (40 OE) terpolymer as a 25% aqueous dispersion. (e) Among these monomers, copolymers containing α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids and esters of α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids and oxyalkylated aliphatic alcohols. Preferably, these compounds also include esters of α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid esters and C1-C4 alcohols as monomers. Examples of this type of compound that can be mentioned are Aculyn 22® sold by Rohm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer; and Aculyn 88 sold by Rohm & Haas.
[0251] (f) An amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer having a sulfo group in free or partially or fully neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic moiety. These polymers may or may not be crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked. Ethylenically unsaturated monomers having a sulfo group are, in particular, vinyl sulfonic acid, styrene sulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamide(C1-C 22 )alkyl sulfonic acid, N-(C1-C 22Alkyl (meth) acrylamide (C1-C 22 ) is selected from alkyl sulfonic acids, their partially or fully neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.
[0252] (Meth) acrylamide (C1-C 22 ) alkyl sulfonic acids such as acrylamide methanesulfonic acid, acrylamide ethanesulfonic acid, acrylamide propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or fully neutralized forms are more preferably used.
[0253] 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), and also its partially or fully neutralized form are more particularly used.
[0254] This family of polymers may be particularly selected from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with C6-C 22 n-monoalkylamines or di-n-alkylamines, such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154. These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers selected from, for example, (meth) acrylic acid, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives, or their esters obtained with monohydric alcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamide, vinyl pyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0255] The preferred polymers of this family are selected from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.
[0256] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers that do not contain a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acid, its β-substituted alkyl derivatives, or its esters obtained by monohydric alcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0257] These copolymers are described, inter alia, in patent application EP-A-0 750 899, patent US 5,089,578 and the following publications by Yotaro Morishima: - Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No. 40 (2000), pp. 323-336; - Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering, Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10, pp. 3694-3704; - Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, pp. 5324-5332; - Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), pp. 220 - 221.
[0258] Among these polymers, the following can be mentioned: - Crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers containing 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS units and 40% to 85% by weight of (C8 - C 16 ) alkyl (meth)acrylamide or (C8 - C 16 ) alkyl (meth)acrylate units with respect to the polymer, for example, those described in patent application EP - A - 0 750 899; - Terpolymers containing 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C6 - C 18 ) alkylacrylamide units, for example, those described in patent US - 5,089,578.
[0259] Completely neutralized copolymers of AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, and crosslinked and non - crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n - dodecyl methacrylamide, for example, those described in the Morishima paper mentioned above can also be mentioned.
[0260] Among the cationic associative polymers, the following may be mentioned. (a) Cationic associative polyurethane; (b) A compound sold by Noveon under the name Aqua CC corresponding to the INCI name of polyacrylate - 1 cross - polymer. Polyacrylate - 1 cross - polymer is a polymerization product of a mixture of monomers containing: - Di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, - One or more C1-C 30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, - Polyethoxylated C 10 -C 30 alkyl (20-25 mol ethylene oxide units) methacrylate, - 30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether, - Hydroxy(C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and - Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
[0261] (c) Quaternized (poly)hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with a group containing at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl group containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof. The alkyl group retained by the above quaternized cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose preferably contains 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably represents a phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl group. Examples of quaternized alkyl hydroxyethyl cellulose containing a C8-C 30 fatty chain include products sold by Aqualon such as Quatrisoft LM 200 (registered trademark), Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A (registered trademark), Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B (registered trademark) (C 12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (registered trademark) (C 18 alkyl), products sold by Croda such as Crodacel QM (registered trademark), Crodacel QL (registered trademark) (C 12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (registered trademark) (C 18 alkyl), and product Softcat SL 100 (registered trademark) sold by Aqualon. (d) Cationic polyvinyl lactam polymer.
[0262] Such polymers are described, for example, in patent application WO-00 / 68282.
[0263] As the cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymer according to the present invention, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / dodecyl dimethyl methacrylamide-propylammonium tosylate terpolymer, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / cocoyl dimethyl methacrylamide-propylammonium tosylate terpolymer, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / lauryl dimethyl methacrylamide-propylammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymer are particularly used.
[0264] The amphoteric associative polymer is preferably selected from those containing at least one acyclic cationic unit. More specifically, those prepared from or containing 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 1.5 to 15 mol%, more specifically 1.5 to 6 mol% of fatty chain monomers based on the total molar number of monomers are preferred.
[0265] The amphoteric associative polymer according to the present invention is described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98 / 44012.
[0266] Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the present invention, a preferred one is acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymer.
[0267] The nonionic type associative polymer that can be used according to the present invention is preferably selected from the following: (a) Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and fatty chain hydrophobic monomers, examples of which that can be listed are as follows: - Products Antaron V216® or Ganex V216® (vinyl pyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by ISP. - Products sold by ISP, such as Antaron V220 (registered trademark) or Ganex V220 (registered trademark) (vinyl pyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer), (b) Copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylate or acrylate and an amphiphilic monomer containing at least one fatty chain, such as the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold under the name Antil 208 (registered trademark) by Goldschmidt; (c) Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylate or acrylate and a hydrophobic monomer containing at least one fatty chain, such as the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; (d) Polyurethane polyethers containing both a hydrophilic block which is usually polyoxyethylene and a hydrophobic block which can be an aliphatic sequence alone and / or a cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequence in these chains; (e) Polymers having an aminoplast ether main chain containing at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix (registered trademark) compound sold by Sud-Chemie; (f) Cellulose or its derivatives modified with a group containing at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl group or a mixture thereof, where the alkyl group is C8, in particular: * Nonionic alkyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, such as the products Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 (C 16 alkyl) sold by Aqualon; * Nonionic nonoxynyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, such as the product Amercell HM-1500 sold by Amerchol; * Nonionic alkyl cellulose, such as the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by Berol Nobel; (g) Associative guar derivatives, such as hydroxypropyl guar modified with a fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 sold by Lamberti (C 22 modified with an alkyl chain); the product Miracare XC 95-3 sold by Rhodia Chimie (C 14 modified with an alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (C 20 modified with an alkyl chain).
[0268] Preferably, the polyurethane polyether contains at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by hydrophilic blocks, and the hydrocarbon-based chains may be side chains or end chains of the hydrophilic blocks. In particular, it is possible to assume one or more side chains. In addition, the polymer can contain hydrocarbon-based chains at the end of one side or both sides of the hydrophilic block.
[0269] The polyurethane polyether can be in the form of a multi-block, especially a triblock. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (e.g., a triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block), or distributed at both ends and in the chain (e.g., a multi-block copolymer). These same polymers can also be graft polymers or star polymers.
[0270] The nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyether can be a triblock copolymer, and its hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain containing 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. The nonionic polyurethane polyether contains urethane bonds between the hydrophilic blocks, and thus is the origin of this name.
[0271] In an extended sense, what is also included among the nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers are those in which the hydrophilic block is linked to the lipophilic block via other chemical bonds.
[0272] Examples of nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the present invention include Rheolate 205 (registered trademark) having urea functional groups sold by Rheox, or Rheolate (registered trademark) 208, 204 or 212, and Acrysol RM184 (registered trademark) may also be used.
[0273] Product C manufactured by Akzo 12 ~C 14 Product Elfacos T210 (registered trademark) having an alkyl chain, and 18 Product Elfacos T212 (registered trademark) having an alkyl chain may also be mentioned.
[0274] Product C sold at a solid content of 20% in water 20 Product DW 1206B (registered trademark) manufactured by Rohm & Haas having an alkyl chain and a urethane bond may also be used.
[0275] What may further be used are solutions or dispersions of these polymers, particularly in water or aqueous-alcoholic media. Examples of such polymers that may be listed are Rheolate (registered trademark) 255, Rheolate (registered trademark) 278 and Rheolate (registered trademark) 244 sold by Rheox. Also, products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by Rohm & Haas may be used.
[0276] The polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the present invention are those particularly described in the paper by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, pages 380 - 389 (1993).
[0277] It is more preferably used a polyurethane polyether obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds including (i) at least one polyethylene glycol containing 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
[0278] Such polyurethane polyethers are sold, in particular, under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® by Rohm & Haas. [Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide at 15% by mass, stearyl alcohol, and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide at 35% by mass, decyl alcohol, and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%).]
[0279] The amount of the (b-2) hydrophilic thickener in the composition according to the invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0280] The amount of the (b-2) hydrophilic thickener in the composition according to the invention may be 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 1% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0281] The amount of the (b-2) hydrophilic thickener in the composition according to the invention may be 0.01% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0282] (Polyol) The composition according to the present invention may contain (b-3) at least one polyol. Two or more different types of (b-3) polyols may be used in combination.
[0283] As used herein, the term "polyol" means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups and does not include sugars or their derivatives. Sugar derivatives include sugar alcohols obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of sugars, and sugars or sugar alcohols in which hydrogen atoms in one or more of their hydroxy groups are replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.
[0284] The polyol used in the present invention is liquid at room temperature, for example 25°C, under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 10 5 Pa).
[0285] The polyol contains at least two hydroxy groups, preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups, and is a C2-C 24 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol.
[0286] The polyol may be a natural polyol or a synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
[0287] The polyol may be selected from glycerin, glycols, and mixtures thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, C6-C 24 polyethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, and mixtures thereof.
[0288] (b-3) The polyol is preferably selected from the group consisting of glycerin, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0289] The amount of (b-3) polyol in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by mass or more, preferably 3% by mass or more, more preferably 5% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0290] The amount of (b-3) polyol in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 15% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0291] The amount of (b-3) polyol in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 3% by mass to 15% by mass, more preferably 5% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0292] (Colorant) The composition according to the present invention may contain (c) at least one colorant. When two or more (c) colorants are used, they may be the same or different.
[0293] (c) The colorant may be present in the (a) fatty phase or the (b) aqueous phase depending on the nature of the (c) colorant.
[0294] In one embodiment, (c) the colorant can be selected from dyes, pigments, and mixtures thereof.
[0295] In the present invention, (c) the colorant may be water-soluble or water-dispersible, or oil-soluble or oil-dispersible, or may have a limited solubility in water.
[0296] In one embodiment, (c) the colorant can be selected from coloring pigments.
[0297] The term "coloring pigment" should be understood to mean any shaped inorganic or organic particles, white or colored, that are insoluble and intended to color or stain the skin or lips.
[0298] Pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic.
[0299] Among the inorganic pigments that can be used, non-limiting examples include titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, optionally surface-treated, and zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, or metal powders such as aluminum powder or copper powder. Pigments can also be selected from metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, and cerium oxide, and nano-pigments formed from mixtures thereof. The term "nano-pigment" is understood to mean a pigment having an average particle size in the range of 1 nm to 500 nm, for example a particle size in the range of 10 nm to 100 nm.
[0300] Among the organic pigments that can be used, non-limiting examples include carbon black, D&C type pigments and lakes, such as cochineal carmine-based and barium, strontium, calcium, or aluminum-based lakes. For example, Red 33 (disodium 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disulfonate) and Red 202 (calcium bis[2-(3-carboxy-2-hydroxynaphthylazo)-5-methylbenzenesulfonate]) can be used as D&C type pigments.
[0301] The organic pigment can also be a diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP) such as those described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96 / 08537.
[0302] The organic pigment may be selected from biological pigments such as BioChromaDerm® or BioChromaEyes® supplied by Biotic Phocea of France.
[0303] Preferably, the coloring pigment can be selected from metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, and chromium oxide, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, aluminum powder, copper powder, carbon black, D&C type pigments, lakes, nacreous pigments, and mixtures thereof.
[0304] The term "nacreous pigment" should be understood to mean iridescent particles of any shape, such as particles produced by certain shells within the shell or, alternatively, synthetic particles.
[0305] Pearlescent agents can be selected from white pearlescent agents such as mica coated with titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride; colored pearlescent agents such as mica coated with titanium dioxide and then coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide and then coated with ferric blue or chromium oxide, or mica coated with titanium dioxide and then coated with an organic pigment of the above type; and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent agents.
[0306] (c) It is preferred that the colorant is selected from hydrophobic pigments.
[0307] Preferably, the hydrophobic pigment is selected from hydrophobic coated pigments. The term "hydrophobic coated pigment" means any pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. The term "lipophilic compound" means any compound that is soluble or dispersible in oil. The term "hydrophobic compound" means any compound that is insoluble in water.
[0308] According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the pigments coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound are selected from inorganic and organic pigments.
[0309] The hydrophobic pigment may have at least one coating comprising at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. This lipophilic or hydrophobic coating may be present on the outermost surface of the hydrophobic pigment.
[0310] For the purposes of the present invention, "coating" of a pigment generally refers to the overall or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface treatment agent that is absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigment. Thus, the hydrophobic pigment may be a surface-treated pigment.
[0311] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared by surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature, which are well known to those skilled in the art. Commercially available products can also be used as surface-treated pigments.
[0312] The surface treatment agent can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigment by evaporation of the solvent, chemical reaction and creation of covalent bonds.
[0313] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigment.
[0314] The hydrophobic pigment may also have at least one coating comprising at least one non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic compound, for example at least one hydrophilic compound. For example, the non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic compound can be selected from metal hydroxides, such as aluminum hydroxide, and metal chlorides, such as magnesium chloride. This non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic coating may be present between the pigment itself and the lipophilic or hydrophobic coating.
[0315] The coating may occupy from 0.1% to 20% by weight, specifically from 0.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the coated pigment.
[0316] The coating can be carried out, for example, by simply mixing the particles with the surface treatment agent while stirring, optionally with heating, before incorporating the particles into the other components of the composition used for the purposes of the present invention, so as to adsorb the liquid surface treatment agent onto the surface of the solid pigment particles.
[0317] The coating can be carried out, for example, by chemically reacting the surface treatment agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles to create a covalent bond between the surface treatment agent and the particles. This method is described in particular in US-B-4,578,266.
[0318] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surface treatment agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigment in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surface treatment agent is deposited on the surface of the pigment.
[0319] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigment can be coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound selected from silicone-based surface treatment agents, fluoro surface treatment agents, fluorosilicone surface treatment agents, metal soaps, fatty acids, N-acyl amino acids or their salts, lecithin and its derivatives, monoalkyl triacyl titanates such as isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, natural plant or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes, fatty esters, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.
[0320] (c) More preferably, the colorant is selected from pigments treated with monoalkyl triacyl titanates. In a preferred embodiment, the pigments suitable for use in the present invention are treated with monoalkyl triacyl titanates, for example, coated or surrounded. Monoalkyl triacyl titanates, also referred to as monoalkyl titanates, can be represented by the formula RO-Ti-(OR')3, where R is an alkyl and R' is an acyl group, which may be the same or different.
[0321] In certain embodiments of the monoalkyl triacyl titanate, the alkyl is C 1~5 an alkyl group, specifically C 1~4 an alkyl group, and the acyl is derived from acrylic acid or an acrylic acid derivative, such as methacrylic acid, or a fatty acid. The acyl group is particularly C 6~30 a fatty acid, more specifically C 12~24 a fatty acid, even more specifically C 16~20 derived from a fatty acid. Such fatty acids may be capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, oleic acid. The acyl groups in these triacyl titanates may be the same or different. A preferred embodiment is monoisopropyl triacyl titanate, see U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 20050019284 (specifically paragraphs
[0038] -
[0052] ).
[0322] According to a preferred embodiment, the monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), isopropyl dimethacryloyl isostearoyl titanate, isopropyl dimethacryloyl isostearoyl titanate.
[0323] Preferably, the monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), which may also be referred to as isopropyl titan triisostearate.
[0324] The monoalkyl triacyl titanate-treated pigment may be an isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate-treated pigment.
[0325] The monoalkyl triacyl titanate-treated pigment is a pigment treated with at least monoalkyl triacyl titanate. The monoalkyl triacyl titanate-treated pigment may be treated with only monoalkyl triacyl titanate, or may be treated with monoalkyl triacyl titanate and at least one additional surface treatment agent, such as a fluorinated surface treatment agent or a silicone-based surface treatment agent, such as polydimethylsiloxane and triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxylethyldimethylcon.
[0326] For example, an isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate-treated pigment is a pigment treated with at least isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT). The isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate-treated pigment may be treated with only isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), or may be treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT) and at least one additional surface treatment agent, such as a fluorinated surface treatment agent or a silicone-based surface treatment agent, such as polydimethylsiloxane and triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxylethyldimethylcon.
[0327] Examples include pigments treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate sold by KOBO under the trade names BWYO-12 (iron oxide CI 77492 and isopropyl titanate triisostearate), BWRO-12 (iron oxide CI 77491 and isopropyl titanate triisostearate), BWBO-12 (iron oxide CI 77499 and isopropyl titanate triisostearate), and / or TiO2 CR-50 12 (titanium dioxide CI 77891 coated with alumina and isopropyl titanate triisostearate).
[0328] The amount of the colorant (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by mass or more, preferably 3% by mass or more, more preferably 5% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0329] The amount of the (c) colorant in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 15% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0330] The amount of the (c) colorant in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 3% by mass to 15% by mass, more preferably 5% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0331] (Additional optional components) In addition to the aforementioned components, the composition according to the present invention may contain components typically used in cosmetics, specifically fillers, cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, UV blockers, or preservatives, etc., within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.
[0332] The composition according to the present invention may contain the above optional components in an amount of 0.001% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0333] [Preparation] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential components and optional components by a conventional method.
[0334] The methods and means for mixing the above essential components and optional components are not limited. Any conventional methods and means can be used to mix the above essential components and optional components to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0335] [Form] The composition according to the present invention is of the W / O type.
[0336] In the composition according to the present invention, a plurality of (b) aqueous phases are dispersed in the (a) fatty phase. The (b) aqueous phase is the discontinuous phase, while the (a) fatty phase is the continuous phase.
[0337] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a W / O emulsion, particularly when the composition according to the present invention contains at least one emulsifier such as a surfactant.
[0338] The composition according to the present invention is preferably a composition in the form of wax / oil-in-water, more preferably a wax / oil-in-water emulsion.
[0339] The composition according to the present invention is preferably in a solid form. As used herein, the term "solid" means a non-fluid state at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa).
[0340] The composition according to the present invention preferably has a hardness of less than 8.9 g / mm, preferably less than 8.3 g / mm, more preferably less than 7.8 g / mm.
[0341] The hardness of the composition can be evaluated using the "cheese wire" method. This method requires cutting the composition in the form of a stick with a diameter of 9 mm with a metal wire at a speed of 0.16 to 0.19 cm / second at 20 °C and measuring its hardness using a force measuring machine such as Chatillon (trademark) manufactured by Ametek. The hardness obtained by this method can be expressed in grams / mm as the maximum shear force required to cut the stick under the above conditions.
[0342] The amount of the (a) fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by mass or more, preferably 35% by mass or more, more preferably 40% by mass or more based on the total mass of the composition.
[0343] The amount of the (a) fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 70% by mass or less, preferably 65% by mass or less, more preferably 60% by mass or less based on the total mass of the composition.
[0344] The amount of the (a) fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by mass to 70% by mass, preferably 35% by mass to 65% by mass, more preferably 40% by mass to 60% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.
[0345] In the composition according to the present invention, the amount of the (b) aqueous phase may be 10% by mass or more, preferably 15% by mass or more, more preferably 20% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0346] In the composition according to the present invention, the amount of the (b) aqueous phase is 40% by mass or less, preferably 35% by mass or less, more preferably 30% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0347] In the composition according to the present invention, the amount of the (b) aqueous phase may be from 10% by mass to 40% by mass, preferably from 15% by mass to 35% by mass, more preferably from 20% by mass to 30% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0348] [Cosmetic use and cosmetic method] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup composition, more preferably a lipstick.
[0349] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatment of keratin substances on the skin and mucosal surfaces, such as lips, etc., preferably for makeup.
[0350] Therefore, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratin substances such as the skin and lips, etc., which includes the step of applying the composition according to the present invention onto the keratin substance.
[0351] For example, the composition according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic method for making up keratin substances on the skin and mucosal surfaces (such as lips), etc., which includes the step of applying the composition according to the present invention onto the keratin substance.
[0352] The composition according to the present invention can impart cosmetic effects such as coloring of keratin substances, particularly makeup effects. Further, the composition according to the present invention can exhibit a long-lasting makeup effect and / or an anti-color transfer effect.
[0353] The present invention also relates to (a) (a-1) at least one oil and a continuous fatty phase containing the same, (b) (b-1) water and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases containing the same, in a composition, (a-2-1-1) at least one non-polar wax having a melting point of 85° C. or higher, (a-2-1-2) at least one non-polar wax having a melting point of less than 85° C., and (a2-2) at least one polar wax, for producing a composition having a hardness of 4.4 g / mm to 11.1 g / mm, preferably 4.4 g / mm to 10.6 g / mm, more preferably 4.4 g / mm to 8.9 g / mm, (1) The amount of the non-polar wax having a melting point of 85° C. or higher in (a-2-1-1) is 6% by mass to 17% by mass, preferably 8% by mass to 16% by mass, more preferably 10% by mass to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, (2) The mass ratio of the amount of the non-polar wax having a melting point of 85° C. or higher in (a-2-1-1) / the total amount of the non-polar wax having a melting point of 85° C. or higher in (a-2-1-1), the non-polar wax having a melting point of less than 85° C. in (a-2-1-2), and the polar wax in (a-2-2) is 0.4 or more, preferably 0.5 or more, more preferably 0.6 or more, may also relate to the use.
Examples
[0354] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The following examples are presented as non-limiting illustrations in the field of the present invention.
[0355] (Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8) [Preparation] Compositions according to Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 in the form of lipsticks were prepared by mixing the components shown in Tables 1 and 2 at high temperature, followed by shaping / cooling. The numerical values for the amounts of the components in Tables 1 and 2 are all based on "mass %" of the raw materials.
[0356]
Table 1A
[0357]
Table 1B
[0358]
Table 2A
[0359]
Table 2B
[0360] [Evaluation] (Hardness) The hardness of each composition according to Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 was measured at 20 °C using a tester (Chatillon (trademark) DFGHS2 manufactured by Ametek), where the composition was in the form of a cylinder with a diameter of 9 mm and maintained at 20 °C for a period longer than 1 day before cutting. The hardness was determined as the maximum shear force (g) / mm when cutting the composition longitudinally at a point 1 cm from the end of the cylinder using a metal wire at a speed of 0.16 to 0.19 cm / second at 20 °C.
[0361] The results are shown in the "Hardness" rows in Tables 1 and 2.
[0362] (Application amount) Each composition according to Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 was applied to the lips of 5 panelists. The mass of each composition before and after application was measured. The difference in mass between each composition before and after application was determined as the application amount and averaged.
[0363] The results are shown in the "application amount" rows in Tables 1 and 2.
[0364] (Sensory test) Each composition according to Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 was applied to the lips of 5 panelists. The slipperiness and the degree of melting feeling were evaluated by scoring on a scale of 1 to 5. The scores were averaged and classified according to the following criteria. Good: Over 4.0 Average: 2.5 - 4.0 Poor: Less than 2.5
[0365] The results are shown in the "slipperiness" and "melting feeling" rows in Tables 1 and 2.
[0366] (Makeup effect) Each composition according to Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 was applied to the lips of 5 panelists and left for 5 minutes. The uniformity of lip coloring was evaluated by scoring on a scale of 1 to 5. The scores were averaged and classified according to the following criteria. Good: Over 4.0 Average: 2.5 - 4.0 Poor: Less than 2.5
[0367] The results are shown in the "makeup effect" row in Tables 1 and 2.
[0368] (Quality of the stick) Each composition according to Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 was applied to the lips of 5 panelists. The strength of the stick during application was evaluated by scoring on a scale of 1 to 5. The scores were averaged and classified according to the following criteria. Good: Over 4.0 Average: 2.5 - 4.0 Poor: Less than 2.5
[0369] The results are shown in the "quality of the stick" row in Tables 1 and 2.
[0370] (Overview) The compositions according to Examples 1 to 5, which correspond to the composition according to the present invention, were able to provide a comfortable feel, good cosmetic effects, and good applicability.
[0371] On the other hand, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 2, which did not contain the (a-2-2) polar wax, resulted in discomfort, poor cosmetic effects, and poor applicability. Similarly, the composition according to Comparative Example 5, which did not contain the (a-2-2) polar wax, was too soft to be evaluated because it broke when applied.
[0372] The composition according to Comparative Example 4, which did not contain any non-polar wax, was too soft to be evaluated because it broke when applied.
[0373] The composition according to Comparative Example 6, which contained the non-polar wax having a high melting point (a-2-1-1) in an amount of less than 6% by mass based on the total mass of the composition, was too soft to be evaluated because it broke when applied.
[0374] The compositions according to Comparative Examples 3, 7, and 8, which contained the non-polar wax having a high melting point (a-2-1-1) such that the mass ratio of the amount of the non-polar wax having a high melting point (a-2-1-1) to the total amount of the non-polar wax having a high melting point (a-2-1-1), the non-polar wax having a low melting point (a-2-1-2), and the polar wax (a-2-2) was less than 0.4, were too soft to be evaluated because they broke when applied.
Claims
1. (a) (a-1) At least one kind of oil, and (a-2-1-1) At least one kind of nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher, (a-2-1-2) At least one kind of nonpolar wax having a melting point of less than 85°C, and (a2-2) At least one kind of polar wax comprising a continuous fatty phase, and (b) (b-1) water comprising a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, wherein (1) the amount of the nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1) is 6% to 17% by mass, preferably 8% to 16% by mass, more preferably 10% to 15% by mass based on the total mass of the composition, (2) the mass ratio of the amount of the nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1) / the total amount of the nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1), the nonpolar wax having a melting point of less than 85°C in (a-2-1-2), and the polar wax in (a-2-2) is 0.4 or more, preferably 0.5 or more, more preferably 0.6 or more, the composition.
2. (a-1) The oil is (a-1-1) a volatile oil, preferably a volatile nonpolar oil, more preferably a volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oil, (a-1-2) a non-volatile oil, preferably a non-volatile nonpolar oil, more preferably a non-volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oil, and a mixture thereof selected from, the composition according to claim 1.
3. The amount of the oil in (a-1) in the composition is 15% to 45% by mass, preferably 20% to 40% by mass, more preferably 25% to 35% by mass based on the total mass of the composition, the composition according to claim 1 or 2.
4. The nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1) is selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably polyolefin waxes, more preferably polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3.
5. (a-2-2) The polar wax is selected from polar ester waxes, preferably plant-derived polar ester waxes, more preferably sunflower seed wax, jojoba ester, acacia flower wax, and mixtures thereof, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4.
6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of the (a-2-2) polar wax in the composition is less than 15% by mass, preferably less than 12% by mass, more preferably less than 9% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.
7. (a) The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the fatty phase further comprises (a-3) at least one indene resin preferably selected from hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers.
8. The composition according to claim 7, wherein the amount of the (a-3) indene resin in the composition is 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.
9. (a) The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the fatty phase further comprises (a-4) at least one film-forming polymer.
10. The composition according to claim 9, wherein the amount of the (a-4) film-forming polymer in the composition is 1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 3% by mass to 15% by mass, more preferably 5% by mass to 10% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.
11. (b) The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the aqueous phase further comprises (b-2) at least one hydrophilic thickener.
12. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the amount of the (b-2) hydrophilic thickener in the composition is 0.01% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.
13. (c) The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, further comprising at least one colorant.
14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, which is a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup composition, more preferably a lipstick.
15. A beauty method for making up keratinous substances, comprising: applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 onto the keratinous substance The method.
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