Liquid emulsions containing ethyl cellulose, natural resins, liquid fatty alcohols, solid esters and / or polar hydrocarbon oils, and methods of using the same

A liquid cosmetic composition with ethyl cellulose, natural resin, and fatty alcohols/solid esters/hydrocarbon oils addresses the challenge of long-lasting color retention and resistance to external factors, ensuring comfort and durability.

JP2025520766APending Publication Date: 2025-07-03LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2024575801
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2022-07-05
Filing Date
2023-07-04
Publication Date
2025-07-03

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions struggle to provide long-lasting color retention and resistance to mechanical friction, food, water, sweat, sebum, and cleansing products while maintaining comfort and using natural ingredients.

Method used

A liquid cosmetic composition comprising ethyl cellulose, natural resin, saturated or unsaturated C10-C26 fatty alcohols, and solid hydrocarbon esters or polar hydrocarbon oils in an emulsion form, which enhances durability and comfort.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves excellent color retention and resistance to external factors while being comfortable to use, using natural ingredients.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a liquefied cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, comprising: - ethyl cellulose in an amount of 4% to 25% by mass; - at least one natural resin; - at least one first non-volatile oil that is liquid at 25°C and is selected from saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 10 ~C 26 fatty alcohols; - at least one hydrocarbon-based compound having an ester group and being solid at ambient temperature; at least one second non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil that is different from the first oil and is liquid at ambient temperature and is selected from ester oils, ether oils or carbonate oils; or a mixture thereof. The present invention also relates to a method for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, particularly the skin and lips, preferably the lips, which method comprises applying the composition according to the invention.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a liquid cosmetic composition provided in the form of an emulsion, comprising ethyl cellulose, a natural resin, at least one alcohol oil, and at least one solid hydrocarbon ester compound and / or a specific polar hydrocarbon oil, and also a method for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials using the same.

Background Art

[0002] Currently, in the market for skin and / or lip care and / or makeup, many products claim to have good durability throughout the day and resistance to external factors such as water, sebum, food, and mechanical friction. Such "long-lasting" products for the lips or face that can be used at home are mainly based on film-forming synthetic polymers in the presence of organic solvents, most of which are volatile oils. For example, compositions containing silicone resins as film-forming agents, such as trimethylsiloxysilicic acid (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) resins, or compositions containing silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (INCI name: (acrylates / methacrylic acid polytrimethylsiloxy) copolymer) are known.

[0003] In recent years, consumer demands for cosmetic compositions have been on the rise, and there is a particular demand for products containing high levels of natural or natural-derived ingredients, ingredients with minimal environmental impact, and / or ingredients that are compatible with a wide range of packaging.

[0004] However, it still remains difficult to reconcile these recent trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance of the products they are already used to.

Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0005] The object of the present invention is to provide a composition in which the expected cosmetic effect is persistent, enabling particularly excellent color retention in skin and lip makeup, and which exhibits resistance to mechanical friction, food, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oil or furthermore cleansing products, especially makeup remover products, such as certain micellar waters or makeup removing wipes.

[0006] In addition, the object of the present invention is to provide a composition that combines the persistence of the expected cosmetic effect, especially the color retention of makeup, with an acceptable level of comfort.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0007] These objects and other objects are achieved by the present invention, and one of the subjects thereof is a liquid cosmetic composition in emulsion form, - ethyl cellulose in an amount of 4 to 25% by mass based on the total mass of the composition, represented as an active ingredient; - at least one natural resin; - at least one first non-volatile oil that is liquid at 25 °C, selected from saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 10 ~C 26 fatty alcohols; - at least one hydrocarbon compound having an ester group that is solid at ambient temperature; at least one second non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil that is liquid at 25 °C, different from the first oil and selected from ester oils, ether oils or carbonate oils; or a mixture thereof A cosmetic composition comprising.

[0008] Another subject of the present invention is a method of applying makeup and / or caring for human keratinous substances, especially the skin and lips, preferably the lips, which method comprises applying a composition according to the present invention.

[0009] Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent by reading the following description and examples.

Embodiments for Carrying Out the Invention

[0010] In connection with the present invention, the term "skin" means the skin of the face (cheeks, eyelids, around the eyes), the body and the hands.

[0011] The composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition. This advantageously implies that they contain a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable" means being compatible with the skin and / or lips, having a pleasant color, smell and feel, and not causing unacceptable discomfort (prickling or tightness) that would tend to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0012] The term "ambient temperature" means 25°C.

[0013] The term "atmospheric pressure" means 760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013×10 5 Pascals.

[0014] The composition according to the present invention is in the form of an emulsion that is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C).

[0015] The term "liquid" means a composition that flows under its own weight after 1 hour at ambient temperature. The viscosity can advantageously be measured according to the following procedure: The viscosity measurement is carried out at 25°C using a Rheomat RM180 viscometer fitted with an appropriate spindle (No. 1 to No. 4), and the measurement is taken 10 minutes after rotating the spindle in the composition at a shear rate of 200 revolutions per minute (rpm).

[0016] Preferably, the viscosity of the composition according to the present invention at 25°C is from 0.005 to 18 Pa·s, preferably from 0.01 to 15 Pa·s.

[0017] The composition according to the invention can be in the form of an oil-in-water normal emulsion (where the continuous phase of the emulsion is the aqueous phase) or in the form of a water-in-oil inverse emulsion (where the continuous phase is the lipophilic phase). Preferably, the composition is in the form of a normal emulsion.

[0018] The composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips according to the invention is a cosmetic composition. This advantageously implies that they contain a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable" means being compatible with the skin and / or lips, having a pleasant color and feel, and not causing unacceptable discomfort (itching or stinging) that would make the consumer hesitate to use this composition.

[0019] Ethyl cellulose As shown above, the composition according to the invention contains at least one ethyl cellulose.

[0020] Ethyl cellulose is a cellulose ethyl ether containing chains formed from β-anhydroglucose units linked via acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit contains three replaceable hydroxyl groups, and all or some of these hydroxyl groups can react according to the following reaction: RONa + C2H5Cl → ROC2H5 + NaCl (where R represents the cellulose group).

[0021] When all three hydroxyl groups of each anhydroglucose unit are substituted, the degree of substitution is 3. In other words, the content of alkoxy groups, especially ethoxy groups, is 54.88%.

[0022] The ethyl cellulose polymer used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably has a degree of substitution by ethoxy groups in the range of 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words, a polymer containing ethoxy groups in a content range of 44% to 50%.

[0023] The average molar mass of ethyl cellulose is preferably selected such that the viscosity of a 5% by mass solution in an 80 / 20 (toluene / ethanol) mixture at 25 °C is in the range of 4 to 300 mPa·s, preferably 5 to 200 mPa·s, for example 5 to 150 mPa·s (ASTM standard D 914).

[0024] The ethyl cellulose used in the composition according to the invention can be in powder form.

[0025] This is sold, for example, by Dow Chemicals under the trade name Ethocel Standard, in particular Ethocel Standard 7 FP Premium and Ethocel Standard 100 FP Premium. Other commercially available products, such as those sold by Ashland, Inc. under the names Aqualon Ethylcellulose type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably those sold under the type-N names such as N7, N100, etc., are particularly suitable for the practice of the present invention.

[0026] The ethyl cellulose used in the composition according to the invention can also be in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, such as a latex dispersion or a pseudo-latex type. Techniques for preparing these latex dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0027] A product composed of a dispersion in which ethyl cellulose is dispersed in water at a ratio of about 26.2% by mass, sold by FMC Biopolymer under the name Aquacoat ECD-30 and stabilized with sodium lauryl sulfate and cetyl alcohol, is particularly most suitable for use as an aqueous dispersion of ethyl cellulose.

[0028] According to a particular embodiment, an aqueous dispersion of ethyl cellulose, in particular the product Aquacoat ECD, can be used such that the ethyl cellulose dispersion is in a ratio of 10% to 90% by mass, in particular 15% to 60% by mass, preferably 20% to 50% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0029] According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition contains ethyl cellulose in the aqueous phase of the emulsion (especially in the form of particles dispersed in the aqueous phase), and contains ethyl cellulose in the lipophilic phase of the composition.

[0030] The content of ethyl cellulose expressed as an active substance preferably accounts for 4% to 25% by mass, more preferably 5% to 20% by mass, and even more preferably 6% to 15% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0031] Natural resin The composition according to the present invention contains at least one natural resin.

[0032] ISO standard 4618:2014 (fr) defines a resin as "a generally amorphous polymeric product having a viscosity in the range from the solid state to the liquid state". Natural resins can also be regarded as natural adhesives that inherently have the ability to polymerize consistently and predictably by themselves without using synthetic chemistry.

[0033] Natural resins are in fact limited to those derived from plants (fossils or harvests), which are the exudates of substances secreted by plants to play roles in defense, protection and communication within their ecosystems. The exception is shellac derived from animals, which is secreted by the insect Laccifer lacca (Coccus lacca).

[0034] The resin used in the present invention is preferably selected from resins derived from plants.

[0035] As used herein, the term "natural resin", particularly "vegetable resin", refers to any substance that contains terpene compounds in a minimum content, i.e., at least 30% by mass of terpene compounds based on the total mass of the subject substance (or material), as chemically defined below. The substance is obtained directly or indirectly mainly by plants (less commonly, animals) secreting and exuding substances that play roles in defense, protection, and communication within their ecosystems.

[0036] Advantageously, the natural resin according to the present invention is insoluble in water at ambient temperature.

[0037] Preferably, the number average molecular weight of the natural resin used in the composition according to the present invention is 10,000 g / mol or less. Preferably, the number average molecular weight of this resin is 10,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 - 10,000 g / mol, preferably 5,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 - 5,000 g / mol, more preferably 2,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 - 2,000 g / mol, even more preferably 1,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 - 1,000 g / mol. The number average molecular weight (Mn) is determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractive index detector).

[0038] Thermal properties Advantageously, the resin according to the present invention is characterized by having a softening point, which refers to the temperature at which it transitions from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state during heating.

[0039] Preferably, the resin of the present invention preferably has a softening point (or temperature) in the range of 20°C to 150°C, more preferably in the range of 30°C to 100°C, even more preferably in the range of 40°C to 90°C.

[0040] The softening point is the temperature at which the product reaches a specific degree of softening under standardized conditions. This refers to the temperature at which the substance transitions from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state during heating. This can be measured for resins by the ring and ball method (i.e., RBT, ring and ball temperature) in accordance with ASTM standard E284.

[0041] Some of the resins according to the present invention have a melting temperature, which is preferably less than 360 °C, preferentially less than 190 °C, and even more preferentially less than 90 °C.

[0042] According to a preferred form of the present invention, the resin does not have a melting temperature.

[0043] The melting point (or melting temperature) of a substance at a given pressure corresponds to the temperature at which the liquid and solid states of this substance can coexist in an equilibrium state.

[0044] Preferably, the resin of the present invention preferably has a glass transition temperature in the range of 0 °C to 200 °C, more preferentially in the range of 10 °C to 100 °C, even more preferentially in the range of 20 °C to 90 °C, and even more preferably in the range of 30 °C to 70 °C.

[0045] The glass transition (Tg) of a material represents the temperature range in which the material transitions from a rubbery state to a glassy solid (hard) state.

[0046] The thermal properties, particularly the Mp and Tg of the resin, can be measured by DSC (differential scanning calorimetry) using, for example, a DSC 8000 apparatus from Perkin Elmer as follows: - Procedure 1: Measurement of the melting temperature Mp and the crystallization temperature Tc: Only the starting material or dissolved / dispersed in a solvent, stainless steel pan, scanning from 5 °C to 90 °C, scanning rate 5 °C·min-1. - Procedure 2: Measurement of the glass transition temperature Tg: The measurement is carried out during the second heating. Use an aluminum pan (40 μl) containing the starting material, scan the temperature from -100 °C to 150 °C (isothermal holding is performed) to observe the glass transition temperature. Apply a heating rate of 10 °C / min to determine the glass transition temperature (2 cycles).

[0047] Botanical Definition of Resin Natural resins derived from plants or animals have been conventionally defined in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, “Resins, Synthetic” 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a23_089.pub2. Natural resins include, in particular, rosin (tall oil rosin, wood rosin or gum rosin derived from tree and plant exudates; wood extracts or paper by-products), fossil resins such as amber, extracted resins such as asphaltite, shellac produced by insect secretions, and their main derivatives.

[0048] The resin of the present invention is preferably derived from plants, particularly from plants or trees.

[0049] Fossil resins are (hard and semi-hard) resins collected from underground where ancient forests have disappeared and a long time has passed. Some fossil resins have a considerably changed chemical structure due to aging or maturation, which may take thousands of years. The changes during the transition from fossil resins to modern resins are diverse. Among them, there may be, for example, resins found in fossilized forms as well as resins harvested from living plants. Semi-fossil species are collected at the roots of the trees that produced them (Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, “Resins, Natural” 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a23_073) (Techniques de l’Ingenieur [Engineering Techniques], “Resines Naturelles” [Natural Resins], 1982 Bernard Delmond).

[0050] The harvested resins are living resins (soft). These are all harvested from living plants. These are further subdivided as follows according to their composition: - Oleoresin: A natural solution containing resin in essential oil; - Balsam: A resin characterized by a high ratio of benzoic acid, cinnamic acid and their esters; - Gum: A resin basically composed of polysaccharides; - Gum resin: A mixture of resin and hydrophilic gum; - Latex: A milky composition in which organic substances are dispersed in an aqueous medium: (Techniques de l’Ingenieur [Engineering Techniques], “Resines Naturelles” [Natural Resins], 1982 Bernard Delmond).

[0051] Among the resins of the present invention, especially living resins, resins soluble in oil and / or alcohol are more preferred than water-soluble forms such as latex or gum.

[0052] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resins of the present invention are harvested resins, which are particularly advantageous from an ecological point of view according to the present invention because they self-renew. Preferably, the resins of the present invention are living resins.

[0053] Chemical definition of resin Chemically, natural resins are a complex mixture of several types of compounds: essential oils, neutral and acidic components, and polysaccharides (present only in gums), the presence and content of which determine the class of resin (oleoresin, balsam, gum, etc.).

[0054] The components characterizing the resin are terpene compounds contained therein, preferably contained in an amount of at least 30% by mass based on the mass of the resin.

[0055] The "terpene compound" means terpenes, which are hydrocarbons formed from isoprene having the general formula (C5H8)n, and many of its derivatives containing a terpene structure (such as alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids, etc.) (Academie de Montpellier. Les resines [Resins]: https: / / tice.ac-montpellier.fr / ABCDORGA / Famille / Terpenes.html).

[0056] Among terpene hydrocarbons, there are distinctions between monoterpenes with the empirical formula C10H16 (n = 2), sesquiterpenes with the empirical formula C15H24 (n = 3), diterpenes (C20H32) (n = 4), sesterterpenes (C25H40) (n = 5), triterpenes (C30H48) (n = 6), tetraterpenes (C40H64) (n = 8), and other polyterpenes. Some have an acyclic structure, which contain a plurality of double bonds corresponding to their empirical formula: 3 in the case of C10H16; 5 in the case of C20H32; 7 in the case of C30H48. Others have one or more rings, and accordingly the number of double bonds decreases. For example, in the case of C10H16, it has one ring and two double bonds or two rings and one double bond.

[0057] Advantageously, the resin of the present invention contains at least 30% by mass of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by mass of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% by mass of terpene compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% by mass of terpene compounds, based on the total mass of the resin or resinous substances used as the resin or starting materials in the composition according to the present invention.

[0058] Most monoterpene and sesquiterpene compounds are volatile compounds, which, for example, constitute essential oils. Polyterpene compounds derived from terpenes with n of 4 or more (such as derivatives of diterpenes and triterpenes) are resinous compounds having, so to speak, solid properties.

[0059] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin contains at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by mass, preferably at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 35% by mass of a polyterpene compound, that is, a compound derived from a terpene in which n is 4 or more, based on the total mass of the resin representing 100%. Therefore, the resin preferably has a fraction that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C). Advantageously, the resin used according to the present invention is non-volatile.

[0060] Advantageously, the polyterpene compound of the resin or resinous substance used in the composition of the present invention is mainly (more than 50% by mass based on the total mass of the polyterpene) derived from diterpene and / or triterpene.

[0061] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin contains less than 70% by mass of a monoterpene-based or sesquiterpene-based compound, that is, a compound derived from a terpene in which n is less than 4, based on the total mass of the resin representing 100%; preferably, the resin contains less than 60% by mass, preferably less than 50% by mass, preferably less than 30% by mass, preferably less than 15% by mass of a monoterpene-based or sesquiterpene-based compound derived from a terpene in which n is less than 4, based on the total mass of the resin representing 100%. That is, in the composition of the present invention, it is preferable to limit the use of the resin having the lowest effect and the highest volatility in terms of the durability of the cosmetic film.

[0062] A non-exhaustive list of terpene compounds that can be contained in the natural resin of the present invention was created. This lists a series of terpene compounds subdivided based on characteristic groups (such as alcohol groups, ketone groups, acid groups, etc.) of each compound (described below).

[0063] Examples of monoterpene compounds Advantageously, the resin's monoterpene compounds are selected from α-pinene, β-pinene, 3-carene, camphene, dipentene, P-cymene, B-myrcene, α-farnesene, sabinene, α-thujene, limonene, octyl ethanoate, neryl ethanoate, bornyl ethanoate, geranyl ethanoate, α-terpineol, cineol, linalool, borneol, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0064] Examples of sesquiterpene compounds Advantageously, the resin's sesquiterpene compounds are selected from α-copaene, β-caryophyllene, β-bisabolene, β-guaiene, α-guaiene, alloaromadendrene, β-bulbonene, δ-cadinene, α-guaiene, α-elemene, β-elemene, d-elemene, α-copaene, α-selinene, β-selinene, β-bulbonene, lindestrene, furanoeudesma-1,3-diene, α-cubebene, farnesol, α-elemol, viridiflorol, t-cadinol, β-elemol, germacrone, curzerenone, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] Examples of diterpene compounds Advantageously, the resin's diterpene compounds are selected from abietic acid, pimaric acid, sandaracopimaric acid, communic acid, levopimaric acid, palustric acid, isopimaric acid, dehydroabietic acid, neoabietic acid, agathic acid, sylvane A, sylvane C, isosylvane, verticilla-4(20),7,11-triene, incensole, totarol, sandaracopimarinalol, sylvanoal, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0066] Examples of triterpene compounds Advantageously, the triterpenoid compounds of the resin are selected from 3β,20(S)-dihydroxydammar-24-ene, dammarenolic acid, dammar dienone, hydroxydammarenone (I or II), dammaren diol I (or II), dammadiol, 11-keto-β-boswellic acid (KBA), 11-keto-β-boswellic acid acetate (AKBA), β-boswellic acid, ursolic acid, mangiferonic acid, pentamic acid, ursol aldehyde, α-amyrone, α-amyrin, Β-amyrin, uvaol, oleanolic acid, oleanonic acid, moronic acid, oleanone aldehyde, acetyl lupetolic acid, lupetolic acid, lupetol, betulonal, hydroxyhopanone, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0067] According to a first embodiment of the present invention, the resin used according to the present invention preferably contains at least one diterpenoid compound derived from natural or chemically modified abietic acid.

[0068] According to a second embodiment of the present invention, instead of or in addition to the first embodiment, the resin used according to the present invention preferably contains at least one triterpenoid compound selected from the following triterpenoid compounds: α-amyrin, β-amyrin, α-amyrone, β-amyrone, dammadi enone, dammadiol, ursol aldehyde, hydroxyhopanone, oleanone aldehyde, ursolic acid, oleanonic acid, oleanolic acid and mixtures thereof. The total content of the triterpenoid compounds of the resin used according to the present invention, particularly the content of the preferred ones mentioned above, is advantageously at least 10% by mass, preferably at least 20% by mass, even more preferably at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 35% by mass, based on the total mass of the natural resin. In particular, mention may be made of frankincense resins such as Protium heptaphyllum resin or Shorea robusta resin containing such triterpenoid compounds.

[0069] The chemical composition of the resin can be analyzed by conventional techniques known to those skilled in the art, such as gas chromatography GC analysis, chromatography analysis using hydrogen flame ionization detection called GC-FID, or GC / MS analysis using a mass spectrometer coupled with a gas chromatograph, preferably by GC-FID. These general methods are described in the following paper: “Developpements methodologiques en TLC / MALDITOF MS et GC / MS pour l’analyse des composes terpenoides presents dans les resines vegetales” [Methodological developments in TLC / MALDITOF MS and GC / MS for the analysis of terpenoid compounds present in plant resins], https: / / tel.archives-ouvertes.fr / tel-01581308.

[0070] Definition of resin according to its origin: Advantageously, the natural resin according to the invention is selected from a) alkaloid resins, b) amber, c) asphalticite and gilsonite, d) Peru balsam, e) Tolu balsam, f) benzoin resin, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resins (in particular, kauri copal resin, Manila copal resin, West African copal, such as Congo, Angola or Cameroon copal, East African copal, such as Zanzibar or Madagascar copal, South African copal, such as Brazil or Colombia copal), i) dammar, j) elemi, k) frankincense, l) galbanum, m) labdanum, n) mastic, o) myrrh, p) sandarac, q) shellac, r) styrax (strrax), s) Venetian turpentine (larch, turpentine essential oil), t) rosins, in particular rosin and rosinates and tall oil, v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes and mixtures of these resins.

[0071] Preferably, the natural resin used according to the present invention is selected from frankincense resin (k) and resin (v) extracted from plant wax. It is understood that the resin of the present invention can be esterified, salt-formed, added, phenol-modified and / or dimerized, and further hydrogenated.

[0072] Frankincense resin (olibanum) Frankincense is present in the United Arab Emirates, Oman, Somalia, Ethiopia and Eastern India. Frankincense resin is a living resin and is harvested from the frankincense tree Boswellia carterii. There is also frankincense produced in the Amazon River basin. The bark is deliberately damaged to obtain a milky white extract, which is then dried and recovered. Preferably, the resin of the present invention is selected from frankincense, especially frankincense produced in the Amazon River basin.

[0073] Frankincense resin is light yellow and forms irregular circular or spherical beads. These usually contain 20% to 40% by mass (about 33%) of boswellic acid (C 32 H 52 O4). Frankincense has an acid value of 30% to 50% (indirect method) and shows moderate solubility in ethanol in a basic medium.

[0074] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the resin of the present invention is selected from frankincense, especially frankincense resin produced in the Amazon River basin sold under the names Protium heptaphyllum resin or Protium Resin or White Breu Resin and frankincense resin derived from Shorea robusta.

[0075] Advantageously, the resin is a mixture with one or more fatty substances, preferably selected from volatile or non-volatile oils, as defined below according to the present invention. For example, Shorea robusta resin containing sunflower seed oil, sold under the name Kahlresin 6720 (Shorea robusta resin, Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) seed oil, tocopherol: 50 - 75% by mass of Shorea robusta resin, 25 - 50% by mass of sunflower seed oil) and Shorea robusta resin containing octyldodecanol, sold under the name Kahlresin 6720 (Shorea robusta resin and octyldodecanol; 50 - 70% by mass of Shorea robusta resin, 30 - 50% by mass of octyldodecanol) can be mentioned.

[0076] Resin extracted from plant wax Natural plant wax itself is not regarded as resin. These are substances secreted / excreted from plants, but the resin content of natural products is very low, and the terpene content is less than 30% by mass based on the total mass of the wax. For example, carnauba wax is secreted naturally from the leaves of Copernica cerifera, a palm tree, to prevent the leaves from drying. Candelilla wax is obtained from a shrub named Euphorbia antisyphilitica native to northern Mexico. The wax protects this plant from the environment and prevents excessive evaporation. For example, candelilla wax mainly consists of hydrocarbons (about 50%, chains with 29 - 33 carbon atoms), high molecular weight esters (20% - 29%), free acids (7% - 9%) and resin (12 - 14%, mainly triterpene esters).

[0077] However, resins obtained from vegetable waxes, even those that have been pre-concentrated, isolated, or extracted from these waxes, are included in the definition of "natural resin" for the purposes of the present invention if the resinous or terpene-based component of interest contains at least the minimum content of terpenes required by the present invention (30% by mass relative to the total mass of the components). Candelilla resin sold under the name Candelilla Resin E-1 by Natural Products Japan, with an INCI name of Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract (a resin with a purity of 100%, extracted from the corresponding wax), can be cited as an example. International Application Publication No. 2013 / 147113A1 pamphlet also mentions carnauba resin, a terpene-based resin extracted from carnauba wax, which has physical properties similar to those of conventionally described natural resins, such as not showing a melting temperature at which the wax is distinguished from the resin but showing a softening temperature.

[0078] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from candelilla (Euphorbia Cerifera) wax extract, Protium heptaphyllum resin, Shorea robusta resin, and mixtures thereof, preferably from candelilla (Euphorbia Cerifera) wax extract, Shorea robusta resin, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] Advantageously, the resin is present in the composition according to the present invention in a content in the range of 0.5% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 10% by mass, and even more preferably 0.5% to 8% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0080] The first oil As shown above, the composition according to the present invention contains, as a first non-volatile oil that is liquid at 25°C, a saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched C 10 ~C 26 fatty alcohol, preferably a monoalcohol.

[0081] Advantageously, C 10 ~C 26 The alcohol is a fatty alcohol, and when these contain at least 16 carbon atoms, it is preferably branched. Preferably, the fatty alcohol contains 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Specific examples of fatty alcohols that can be preferably used include, in particular, lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof. According to an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the alcohol is selected from octyldodecanol.

[0082] More specifically, according to a first embodiment of the present invention, the content of the first oil ranges from 0.5% by mass to less than 20% by mass, more specifically from 2% by mass to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0083] More specifically, according to a second embodiment of the present invention, the content of the first oil ranges from 20% by mass to 60% by mass, more specifically from 20% by mass to 40% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0084] The second oil The composition according to the present invention can optionally contain at least one specific second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil that is liquid under atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa) at 25°C.

[0085] The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil whose vapor pressure at atmospheric pressure at 25°C is not zero and is less than 2.66 Pa, more specifically less than 0.13 Pa. As an example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to a static method or by an effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetric analysis according to the vapor pressure of the oil (OCDE standard 104).

[0086] The composition according to the present invention contains at least one oil selected from the following as the second oil: * an ether of formula ROR' or a carbonate of formula RO(CO)OR' (wherein the R and R' groups, which may be the same or different, are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based groups containing up to 16 carbon atoms, preferably C3-C 16 groups); * hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils; * an optionally hydroxylated ester oil containing 1 to 4 ester groups, at least one of the ester groups being linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic and containing at least 10 carbon atoms, an optionally hydroxylated ester oil; * a liquid polyester obtained from the reaction of a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated dimer acid, the fatty acid containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms, a liquid polyester; and - mixtures thereof.

[0087] Preferably, the second oil is selected from: - dicaprylyl ether; - dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate and dialkyl carbonates (C14, 15); - castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, croton seed oil, pentaclethra macrophylla seed oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, shea oil, almond oil, macadamia oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, sesame oil, pumpkin oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, croton tiglium seed oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, linseed oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, asparagus oil, musk rose oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter and mixtures thereof; - 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-Octyldecyl palmitate, Octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-Octyldodecyl stearate, Butyl stearate, 2-Octyldodecyl erucate, Alkyl (C12-15) benzoate, 2-Octyldodecyl benzoate, Isocetyl isostearate, Isostearyl isostearate, Isononyl isononanoate, Isopropyl palmitate, Hexyl laurate, 2-Hexyldecyl laurate, Isopropyl myristate, 2-Octyldodecyl myristate, Diisostearyl malate, Neopentyl glycol dicaprate, Glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate), Glyceryl tri(caprylic / capric acid), Glyceryl tri-fatty acid (C18-36), Glyceryl triheptanoate, Glyceryl trioctanoate, Glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate), Triisostearyl citrate, Tridecyl stearate, Tridecyl trimellitate, Pentaerythrityl tetra pelargonate, Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, Pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, Pentaerythrityl tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate); Isostearyl lactate, Octyl hydroxystearate, Octyldodecyl hydroxystearate; - Polyesters having the following INCI names: (Dilinoleic acid / butanediol) copolymer, (Dilinoleic acid / propanediol) copolymer, Dimer dilinoleic acid dilinoleyl; and - Mixtures thereof.

[0088] Preferably, the second oil is selected from dicaprylyl ether; dicaprylyl carbonate; non-hydroxylated vegetable oils such as olive oil; castor oil and the like; glyceryl tri(caprylic / capric acid), isocetyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, tridecyl stearate, pentaerythrityl ester, especially pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and the like, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] When the composition contains a second oil, its content ranges from 2% to 35% by mass, more specifically from 5% to 30% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0090] Solid hydrocarbon compounds having an ester group The composition according to the present invention can also optionally contain at least one hydrocarbon compound containing an ester group, which is solid at ambient temperature. For the purposes of the present invention, this means that the compound contains at least one ester group (-COOR).

[0091] The term "hydrocarbon compound" conventionally refers to a compound basically formed of or consisting of carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, and containing no other heteroatoms such as silicon, fluorine, and phosphorus. Advantageously, the solid hydrocarbon compounds used according to the present invention contain only carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms, and oxygen atoms.

[0092] The solid compound can be selected from waxes.

[0093] More specifically, the wax is a lipophilic compound that is solid at a temperature above 22°C, preferably above 25°C, has a reversible solid / liquid state change, and a melting point of particularly 30°C or higher, more specifically 45°C or higher. Advantageously, the melting point is 90°C or lower, more specifically 80°C or lower, preferably 70°C or lower.

[0094] The melting point of the solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, a calorimeter sold by TA Instruments under the name DSC Q100, equipped with TA Universal Analysis software.

[0095] The measurement procedure is as follows: About 5 mg of a sample of the solid fatty substance is placed in a "hermetic aluminum capsule" crucible.

[0096] The sample is subjected to the first temperature increase from 20°C to 120°C, heated to 80°C at a heating rate of 2°C / min, then isothermally held at 100°C for 20 minutes, cooled from 120°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 2°C / min, and finally the second temperature increase from 0°C to 20°C is carried out at a heating rate of 2°C / min.

[0097] The value of the melting point of the solid fatty substance is the value at the apex of the maximum endothermic peak observed in the melting curve representing the change in the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0098] The solid compound can be selected from the paste-like compounds.

[0099] The term "paste-like compound" regarding the object of the present invention means a lipophilic compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change and containing a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 20°C. That is, the paste-like compound may have a melting start point of less than 20°C. Furthermore, the paste-like compound may have an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state. The melting point of the paste-like fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as detailed above for wax.

[0100] However, the measurement procedure for the case of the paste-like compound is shown below: 5 mg of a sample of the paste-like fatty substance is placed in a crucible, the first temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C is carried out at a heating rate of 10°C / min, then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / min, and finally the second temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C is carried out at a heating rate of 5°C / min.

[0101] The melting point of the paste-like fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the apex of the peak of the curve representing the change in the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0102] It should be noted that the mass ratio of the liquid in the paste-like fatty substance at ambient temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at ambient temperature to the heat of fusion of the paste-like fatty substance.

[0103] The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the heat consumed by the substance to transition from the solid state to the liquid state. A pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in the crystalline solid form. A pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in the liquid form.

[0104] The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to change the pasty fatty substance from the solid state to the liquid state. This is expressed in units of J / g. The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the obtained thermal analysis curve.

[0105] Among the solid hydrocarbon-based compounds that can be used in connection with the present invention, the following can be particularly mentioned: * Vegetable butter, * Vegetable oil that is fully or partially hydrogenated, * Vegetable wax, * Beeswax, synthetic beeswax, lanolin wax, * Hydrogenated castor oil and C 16 ~C 22 esters with fatty acids, * Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, C 12 ~C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 18 optionally hydrogenated fatty acid triglycerides, * Fatty alcohols, especially waxes obtained by hydrogenation of vegetable oils esterified with lauryl, stearyl, cetyl or behenyl alcohol, etc., * Esters of the formula R1COOR2 (wherein R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains having 10 to 50 carbon atoms and may contain heteroatoms, especially oxygen), * Linear or branched C6~C 10 dicarboxylic acid, and esters of diglycerol and optionally hydroxylated linear or branched C6~C 20 monocarboxylic acid, and polyesters obtained from the condensation of the esters, *A polyester obtained from a dimer acid that is unsaturated and contains 16 to 24 carbon atoms and at least one alcohol or polyol, *Mixtures thereof.

[0106] Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon-based compounds are selected from the following: *Vegetable butters such as mango butter, e.g., a product sold under the reference name Lipex® 203 by Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, particularly a product with the INCI name shea butter, e.g., a product sold under the reference name Sheasoft® by Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuaçu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; babassu butter, e.g., a product sold under the reference name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, in addition to orange wax, e.g., a product sold under the reference name Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen, *Fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils such as hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils (e.g., a mixture of hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated palm oil, and hydrogenated rapeseed oil, e.g., a mixture sold under the reference name Akogel® by AarhusKarlshamn (INCI name: hydrogenated vegetable oil), trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold under the reference name Iso-Jojoba-50® by Desert Whale, partially hydrogenated olive oil, e.g., a compound sold under the reference name Beurrolive by Soliance, *Waxes of animal or plant origin such as sunflower wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto wax, berry wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, montan wax, orange and lemon wax, laurel wax, and mixtures thereof, *Beeswax, synthetic beeswax, lanolin wax, *Hydrogenated castor oil and C 16 ~C 22 esters with fatty acids, especially isostearic acid, such as compounds with the INCI name hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, such as Salacos HCIS(V-L) sold by Nisshin Oil, *Saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched, optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, optionally hydrogenated, especially C 12 ~C 30 fatty acid triglycerides. Examples thereof include: optionally (fully or partially) hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched, optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, preferably C 12 ~C 18 triglycerides of fatty acids; for example, saturated C 12 ~C 18 glycerides of fatty acids (INCI name: hydrogenated coco-glyceryl); saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C 16 ~C 30 triglycerides of carboxylic acids; examples thereof include trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), and tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), either alone or as a mixture. Among the suitable compounds, mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid or hydrogenated castor oil, such as Thixcin R and Thixcin E sold by Elementis Specialties, *Waxes obtained by hydrogenating vegetable oils esterified with fatty alcohols, especially lauryl, stearyl, cetyl or behenyl alcohol. For example, waxes obtained by hydrogenating castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64 (registered trademark) and 22L73 (registered trademark) by Sophim. Such waxes are described in French Patent Application Publication No. A-2792190. Waxes obtained by hydrogenating olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as those sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57, are also equally suitable, *Esters of the formula R1COOR2, where R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains with 10 to 50 carbon atoms and may contain heteroatoms, especially oxygen. In particular, as ester waxes, (hydroxystearyloxy)stearic acid C 20 ~C 40 alkyl esters (the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms) or stearic acid C 20 ~C 40 alkyl esters can be used. Such waxes are sold, in particular, by Koster Keunen under the names Kester Wax K 82 P (registered trademark), Hydroxypolyester K 82 P (registered trademark), Kester Wax K 80 P (registered trademark) or Kester Wax K82H. C 14 ~C 18Mixtures of esters of carboxylic acids and alcohols, for example Cetyl Ester Wax 814 from Koster Keunen, SP Crodamol MS MBAL or Crodamol MS PA from Croda or Miraceti from Laserson can also be used. Glycols and butylene glycol montanates (octacosanoates), for example Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate), a wax sold by Clariant, can also be used. *(C2 - C4) oxyalkylene units can range from 2 to 100, and the number of glycerol units can range from 1 to 20. Natural or synthetic polyalkylenated or polyglycerolized hydrocarbon waxes of animal or plant origin. Examples include polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG - 6 beeswax or PEG - 8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba wax, such as PEG - 12 carnauba; polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated, hydrogenated or non - hydrogenated lanolin wax, such as PEG - 30 lanolin or PEG - 75 lanolin; PPG - 5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolized beeswax, especially polyglyceryl - 3 beeswax, (acacia wax / jojoba wax / sunflower seed wax) polyglyceryl - 3 esters mixture, polyglycerolized plant waxes, such as sage, jojoba or sunflower wax and mixtures thereof (acacia wax / jojoba wax / sunflower seed wax) polyglyceryl - 3 esters can be mentioned. *Linear or branched C6 - C 10 Dicarboxylic acids are condensed with esters of diglycerol and optionally hydroxylated linear or branched C6 - C 20 Polyesters obtained by condensing with monocarboxylic acids, especially those having the INCI name of bis - diglyceryl polyacyl adipate - 2. Adipic acid and C6 - C such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12 - hydroxystearic acid 20esters obtained by condensing with a mixture of diglycerol esters of a mixture of fatty acids, such compounds are sold, inter alia, by Cremer Oleo under the reference name Softisan® 649, * polyesters obtained from a dimer acid that is unsaturated and contains 16 to 24 carbon atoms and at least one alcohol or polyol, for example, - an ester of a diol dimer (e.g., dilinoleyl alcohol) and dilinoleic acid, the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified with a mixture of phytosterol, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example, the ester sold by Nippon Seika Kabushiki Kaisha under the name Plandool G (INCI name: Dimer dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl bis(behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl)); - an ester of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example, the esters sold by Nippon Seika Kabushiki Kaisha under the name Plandool H or Plandool S (INCI name: Dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl)); - an ester of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid, for example, those sold by Koso Alcohol Kogyo Kabushiki Kaisha under the name Risocast-DA-L or Risocast-DA-H (INCI name: Dimer dilinoleic acid hydrogenated castor oil).

[0107] Preferably, the solid hydrocarbon-based compound is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched, optionally mono-hydroxylated or poly-hydroxylated, optionally hydrogenated, preferably C 12 ~C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 18 fatty acid triglycerides selected from, for example, hydrogenated coco glycerides.

[0108] Advantageously, according to the first embodiment, when a hydrocarbon-based compound that is solid at ambient temperature is present, its content is at least 15% by mass, more specifically at least 20% by mass, preferably 20% by mass to 60% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0109] Advantageously, according to the second variant, when a hydrocarbon-based compound that is solid at room temperature is present, its content is less than 15% by mass, 0 (including the lower limit) to less than 15% by mass, preferably 0 to 10% by mass (including the boundary values), based on the total mass of the composition.

[0110] Additional oil Volatile hydrocarbon-based oil or silicone oil The composition according to the invention can optionally contain at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil or silicone oil or a mixture thereof.

[0111] The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil having a vapor pressure at ambient temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure of 2.66 Pa or more, particularly in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40000 Pa, particularly up to 13000 Pa, preferably up to 1300 Pa.

[0112] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is preferably selected from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils.

[0113] The term "non-polar" is understood to mean a hydrocarbon-based oil (hydrocarbon-type compound) composed of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms.

[0114] The term "silicone oil" is understood to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom.

[0115] Regarding the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, these are more specifically selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular, - Branched C8 - C 16 Alkanes, such as C8 - C 16Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane and oils sold under the trade names such as Isopar or Permethyl, - Linear alkanes, either alone or as a mixture, such as C 11 ~C 16 alkanes, and - Mixtures thereof are selected from.

[0116] Examples of volatile silicone oils include, in particular, dimethicone, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof having viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt.

[0117] When the composition contains a volatile hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil, its content is preferably 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition, and advantageously, the composition does not contain a volatile oil.

[0118] Non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil According to other specific embodiments, the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0119] Examples thereof include non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be selected from liquid paraffin, squalane, isoeicosane, non-volatile mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutene, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecene, decene / butene copolymer, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymer and mixtures thereof.

[0120] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention contains a non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil in an amount of 0% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not contain a non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0121] Silicone oil The composition according to the present invention can optionally contain at least one non-volatile silicone oil.

[0122] Among non-volatile silicone oils, in particular, in addition to dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, diphenyldimethylsilicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethylsilicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, mixtures thereof (INCI names) can be mentioned.

[0123] According to one embodiment of the present invention, when such an oil is present, its content is 10% by mass or less, more preferably 4% by mass or less, more specifically 2% by mass or less, and advantageously 1% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition. Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention does not contain silicone oil.

[0124] Aqueous phase The composition according to the present invention contains water.

[0125] More specifically, the composition according to the present invention contains at least 15% by mass, particularly 20% to 60% by mass, and particularly 25% to 50% by mass of water, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0126] This composition may preferably also contain at least one monohydric alcohol containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably saturated, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0127] When the composition contains monohydric alcohol, their contents are in the range of 0% to 10% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0128] The composition may optionally further comprise at least one polyol which is liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa).

[0129] The term "polyol" refers to an organic molecule containing at least two hydroxyl groups (or free hydroxyl groups).

[0130] More specifically, the liquid polyol contains at least two hydroxyl groups, preferably 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, and is selected from saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C2-C8, more specifically C2-C6 hydrocarbon compounds. Advantageously, the liquid polyol can be selected, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isopentyldiol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, ethylhexylglycerol, diglycerol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, dibutylene glycol, diglycerol and mixtures thereof; more advantageously it is glycerol.

[0131] Preferably, when the composition contains at least one liquid polyol as defined above, its content ranges from 0% to 20% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0132] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an aqueous phase (water + C1-C5 monoalcohol + liquid polyol) of at least 20% by mass, in particular from 20% to 60% by mass, in particular from 25% to 50% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0133] Surfactant The composition according to the invention can optionally contain at least one non-ionic or anionic, preferably hydrocarbon-based surfactant.

[0134] A person skilled in the art can determine whether the use of one or more surfactants is necessary by using their general knowledge.

[0135] As a guideline, when the composition contains a surfactant, its content accounts for 0.01% to 6% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0136] Non-ionic surfactant The selection of the surfactant depends on the properties of the desired emulsion.

[0137] In particular, when an oil-in-water emulsion is assumed, the surfactant is preferably selected from non-ionic hydrocarbon-based or silicone surfactants having an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value of 8 or more within the range defined by Griffin in J.Soc.Cosm.Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256, preferably at least from hydrocarbon-based surfactants.

[0138] Furthermore, when a water-in-oil emulsion is assumed, the surfactant is preferably selected from non-ionic hydrocarbon-based or silicone surfactants having an HLB value (defined above) of less than 8 or a mixture thereof.

[0139] Nonionic surfactants can be selected, in particular, from (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols, (poly)oxyalkylenated ethers, (poly)oxyalkylenated esters, (poly)oxyalkylenated or non-(poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitan esters, (poly)oxyalkylenated or non-(poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitan ethers, alkyl (poly)glucosides, sugar esters, (poly)oxyalkylenated or non-(poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol esters, (poly)oxyalkylenated or non-(poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers, and mixtures thereof. The term “(poly)oxyalkylenated” refers to oxyethylene units and / or oxypropylene units, and the number of units ranges from 1 to 200.

[0140] Among (poly)oxyethylenated alcohols, the following can be mentioned: * Polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of the R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH type (where R represents an alkyl group having 8 to C 30 alkyl groups and o represents an average integer in the range of 2 to 50), in particular, ceteth-2, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-10, ceteth-15, ceteth-20, ceteth-23, ceteth-25, ceteth-40, isoceteth-20, laureth-2, laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-12, laureth-23, oleth-2, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-20, oleth-25, oleth-50, deceth-3, deceth-5, beheneth-10, beheneth100, steareth-2, steareth-6, steareth-10, steareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-40, steareth-100, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-30, ceteareth-33, pareth-3, pareth-23, (C12-15) pareth-3, (C12,13) pareth-4, (C12,13) pareth-23, coceth-7, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7, trideceth-10, trideceth-12, phytosterol 30EO, and those selected from mixtures thereof; *R-(O-C(CH3)H-CH2)o-(O-CH2-CH2)p-OH type (R represents a C4 - C 30 alkyl group, and o and p independently represent average integers in the range of 1 - 50) of polyoxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alcohols. Preferably, Compound Y is selected from compounds having the following INCI names: PPG-26 Buteth-26, PPG-12 Buteth-16, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] Among (poly)oxyethylenated esters, in particular, esters of polyethylene glycol and acids of the following types are suitable: R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2) n -OH, or R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)q-O-CO-R, or R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)q-O-R, or R-O-(CH(CH3)-(CH2))p-(O-CH2-CH2)q-O-CO-R (wherein R may be the same or different and represents a saturated or unsaturated C2 - C 20 hydrocarbon-based group; n, p, q may be the same or different and are average integers in the range of 2 - 50).

[0142] These can be selected from, in particular, isostearic acid PEG-6, stearic acid PEG-6, coconut oil fatty acid PEG-7, lauric acid PEG-8, stearic acid PEG-8, isostearic acid PEG-8, oleic acid PEG-8, coconut oil fatty acid PEG-9, oleic acid PEG-10, lauric acid PEG-20, stearic acid PEG-20, stearic acid PEG-30, stearic acid PEG-32, lauric acid PEG-40, stearic acid PEG-40, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, stearic acid PEG-75, stearic acid PEG-100, distearic acid PEG-8, distearic acid PEG-150, myristic acid myreth-3, olive fatty acid PEG-4, PG ceteth-3 acetate, dipolyhydroxystearic acid PEG-30, and mixtures thereof.

[0143] Among (poly)oxyalkylenated or non-(poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitan esters, preferably those in which the number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranges from 0 to 100, and more particularly those in which the oxyethylenated units are from 2 to 50, polysorbates can also be used.

[0144] Regarding sorbitan esters, mention may be made of sorbitan mono- or polyesters containing at least one saturated or unsaturated C 12 ~C 24 groups, preferably mono-, di- or triesters. Among suitable sorbitan esters, for example, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate or sorbitan palmitate, and mixtures thereof, preferably sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan trioleate or sorbitan palmitate and mixtures thereof can be mentioned.

[0145] Among polysorbates (INCI name), in particular, compounds having the following INCI names can be mentioned: polysorbate 20, polysorbate 21, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 61, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85, and mixtures thereof. Regarding esters, PEG-40 sorbitan oleate can be mentioned.

[0146] Regarding alkyl (poly)glucosides, those containing an alkyl group preferably having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing glucoside groups, preferably 1 to 5, particularly 1, 2 or 3 glucoside units, can be used. Alkyl polyglucosides are, for example, decyl glucoside (alkyl-C9 / C 11 -polyglucoside (1.4)), for example, products sold under the name Mydol 10 (registered trademark) by Kao Chemicals or products sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP (registered trademark) by Henkel and products sold under the name Oramix NS 10 (registered trademark) by SEPPIC; (caprylyl / capryl) glucoside, for example, products sold under the name Plantacare KE 3711 (registered trademark) by Cognis or products sold under the name Oramix CG 110 (registered trademark) by SEPPIC; lauryl glucoside, for example, products sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP (registered trademark) by Henkel or products sold under the name Plantaren 1200N (registered trademark) by Henkel; coconut oil alkyl glucoside, for example, products sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP (registered trademark) by Henkel; caprylyl glucoside, for example, products sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP (registered trademark) by Cognis; and mixtures thereof.

[0147] Examples of sugar esters include, for example, glucose derivatives such as polyoxyethylenated alkyl glucose, for example, compounds defined by the following INCI names: methyl gluceth-10 (methyl gluceth-10), methyl gluceth-20. Polyoxyethylenated sugar esters, for example, compounds having the following INCI names: PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate and mixtures thereof are also suitable. Sucrose esters, for example, those selected from sucrose coconut fatty acid, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose oleate, sucrose behenate or sucrose tristearate, either alone or as a mixture, can also be mentioned. Preferably, the sucrose ester is selected from sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate or mixtures thereof.

[0148] Examples of (poly)glycerol esters include the following: * glycerol and a carboxylic acid or C6 - C 40 , more specifically C8 - C 30is an ester with a polymer of an optionally hydroxylated carboxylic acid or a vegetable oil derivative, said ester being polyoxyethylenated and containing from 2 to 200 oxyethylene units, more preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene units, and even more particularly from 2 to 80 oxyethylene units. These compounds are more particularly present in the form of mono-, di- or triglycerides, alone or as a mixture. Examples of such esters include PEG-6 (caprylic / capric) glycerides, PEG-60 almond fatty acid glyceryl, olive fatty acid PEG-10 glycerides, palm kernel oil fatty acid PEG-45 glycerides, coconut oil fatty acid PEG-7 glyceryl, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, stearic acid PEG-30 glyceryl, stearic acid PEG-200 glyceryl, triisostearic acid PEG-20 glyceryl, PEG-70 mango seed oil glycerides, (hydrogenated palm oil / hydrogenated palm kernel oil) PEG-6 esters, hydrogenated palm oil fatty acid PEG-200 glyceryl, coconut oil fatty acid PEG-7 glyceryl, polyoxyethylenated palm glycerides (200 EO) and polyoxyethylenated coconut kernel fatty acid glycerides (7 EO), and mixtures thereof can be mentioned in addition to these mixtures. A polyglycerol containing 2 to 20 glycerol units, an ester of a saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid or carboxylic acid polymer containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or a polyglycerol ester which is a derivative of vegetable oil and contains 2 to 20 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, compound Y is selected from non-ionic polyglycerolized esters or derivatives of vegetable oils and mixtures thereof, which contain 2 to 20 glycerol units and a saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The carboxylic acid can also contain 1 to 3 carboxyl groups and is preferably a monocarboxylic acid. The polyglycerol compound is more particularly a mono-, di- or tri-ester. More particularly, compound Y is selected from an ester of a polyglycerol containing 2 to 20 glycerol units and a saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid or carboxylic acid polymer containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or a polyglycerol ester derived from vegetable oil and containing 2 to 20 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, compound Y is selected from non-ionic esters of a polyglycerol containing 2 to 20 glycerol units and a saturated or saturated carboxylic acid containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or derivatives thereof from vegetable oils and mixtures thereof. The carboxylic acid can also contain 1 to 3 carboxyl groups and is preferably a monocarboxylic acid. The polyglycerol compound is more particularly a mono-, di- or tri-ester.Examples of Compound Y include the following compounds, shown by their INCI names: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Di(citric / stearic) Acid, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 (caprylic / capric) Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Trilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, and polyglycerolized mango kernel oil esters containing 3 to 10 glycerol units, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0149] As alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol, preferably those having the number of ethylene oxide (EO) units in the range of 0 to 100 and the number of glycerol units in the range of 1 to 30 can be used. Examples thereof include Nikkol Batyl Alcohol 100 and Nikkol Kimil Alcohol 100.

[0150] More specifically, the surfactant is selected from sucrose esters, sorbitan esters, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic hydrocarbon surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0151] Anionic surfactant The composition according to the present invention can optionally contain at least one additional anionic, more specifically hydrocarbon-based surfactant.

[0152] Anionic surfactants can be selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides or metal salts of C 10 ~C 30 ~C fatty acids. More specifically, these compounds are in the form of salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium or primary or secondary, especially C2-C4 amines or alkanolamines. These compounds generally contain 10 to 30 carbon atoms, especially 10 to 20 carbon atoms, in their longest hydrocarbon chain and are saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic. They can further contain up to 20 oxyalkylene units, preferably up to 15 units (especially oxyethylene units).

[0153] Colorant According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one colorant selected in particular from synthetic and natural colorants or colorants of natural origin.

[0154] The colorant can be selected from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.

[0155] Pigment The term "pigment" means white or colored inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in the medium of the composition and are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or coating.

[0156] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used are selected from inorganic pigments.

[0157] The term "inorganic pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments in Ullmann’s encyclopaedia. Among the inorganic pigments useful in the present invention, in addition to zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide (black iron oxide, yellow iron oxide or red iron oxide) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydroxide and ferric blue, titanium dioxide and metallic powders (for example, aluminium powder and copper powder) can be mentioned. The following inorganic pigments: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS can also be used.

[0158] The diameter of the pigments useful in connection with the present invention can generally exceed 100 nm and range up to 10 μm, preferably in the range of 200 nm to 5 μm, more preferably in the range of 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0159] According to a particular form of the present invention, the diameter of the pigment is characterized in that D

[50] exceeds 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably in the range of 200 nm to 5 μm, more preferably in the range of 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0160] This diameter is measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyser commercially available from Malvern and it is possible to determine the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range extending from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. The data are processed based on standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is most suitable for determining particle size distributions in the submicron to several micron range; it is possible to determine the "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described, inter alia, in the publication Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0161] D

[50] represents the maximum value of the diameter possessed by 50 volume % of the particles.

[0162] The inorganic pigments related to the present invention are, more specifically, iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. As an example, more specifically, for example, titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate sold under the reference name of NAI (registered trademark) by Mitsuwa Kasei Co., Ltd. can be mentioned.

[0163] As the inorganic pigment used in the present invention, nacreous pigments can also be mentioned.

[0164] The term "nacreous pigment" may or may not have an iridescent color, and in particular, it should be understood to mean particles produced by certain mollusks in their shells or, alternatively, synthetic particles, which are synthetic particles having any shape that exhibits a color effect due to light interference.

[0165] Nacreous pigments can be selected from pearl pigments, for example, titanium-coated mica coated with iron oxide, titanium-coated mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium-coated mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium-coated mica coated with organic dyes, and in addition, pearl pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. These can also be mica particles with at least two layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants continuously layered on the surface.

[0166] Examples of nacreous pigments can also include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments or bismuth oxychloride.

[0167] More specifically, nacreous pigments can exhibit or have the hues of yellow, peach, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper.

[0168] Among the pigments used according to the present invention, those showing optical effects different from the conventional simple color effects, that is, the uniform and unchanging effects generated by conventional colorants such as single-color pigments, can also be mentioned. The term "unchanging" regarding the object of the present invention means having no effect in which the color varies diversely with the observation angle or in response to temperature changes.

[0169] For example, this material can be selected from fibers, especially optical interference fibers, in addition to particles having a metallic color, gonichromatic colorants, photorefractive pigments, thermochromic agents, and optical brighteners. Needless to say, these various materials can exhibit two effects simultaneously and can be combined to exhibit a novel effect according to the present invention.

[0170] According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention contains at least one uncoated pigment.

[0171] According to another specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention contains at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0172] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. If treated with a hydrophobic compound, the affinity for the oil phase becomes dominant, and in that case, the oil phase can carry them.

[0173] The coating may also contain at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0174] Regarding the object of the present invention, the "coating" of the pigment according to the present invention generally refers to surface-treating all or part of the pigment with a surface treatment agent that is absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto the surface of the pigment.

[0175] The surface-treated pigment can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques having chemical, electrical, mechanochemical, or mechanical properties known to those skilled in the art. Commercially available products can also be used.

[0176] The surface treatment agent can be absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto the pigment surface by evaporation of the solvent, chemical reaction, and formation of covalent bonds.

[0177] According to a variant, the surface treatment includes coating the pigment.

[0178] The coating can account for 0.1% to 20% by mass, particularly 0.5% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the coated pigment.

[0179] The coating can be prepared by adsorbing the surface treatment agent onto the particle surface by, for example, simply mixing while optionally heating, with stirring, a solid particle and a liquid surface treatment agent, before adding the particles to the other components of the makeup or care composition.

[0180] The coating can be prepared, for example, by chemically reacting a surface treatment agent with the surface of solid pigment particles to form a covalent bond between the surface treatment agent and the particles. This method is described, inter alia, in US Patent No. 4,578,266.

[0181] The chemical surface treatment can include diluting the surface treatment agent with a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigment in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent to adhere the surface treatment agent to the surface of the pigment.

[0182] When the pigment includes a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, this is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0183] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigment can be coated with at least one compound selected from silicone-based surface treatment agents; fluorine-based surface treatment agents; fluorosilicone-based surface treatment agents; metal soaps; N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyltitanium triisostearate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty acid esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof according to the invention.

[0184] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigment can be coated with a hydrophobic compound.

[0185] According to other particular embodiments, the colorant is a synthetic, natural or natural-derived organic pigment.

[0186] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann’s Encyclopaedia. Organic pigments can be selected, in particular, from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

[0187] Organic pigments include, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments classified in the Color Index under the reference numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments classified in the Color Index under the reference numbers CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments classified in the Color Index under the reference numbers CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments classified in the Color Index under the reference numbers CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, red pigments classified in the Color Index under the reference numbers CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives described in French Patent No. 2679771.

[0188] This pigment can also be in the form of a composite pigment as described in European Patent No. 1184426. This composite pigment can in particular be composed of particles containing a core of an inorganic substance at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the core substance.

[0189] The pigment can also be a lake. The term "lake" means a substance obtained by adsorbing a dye onto insoluble particles to render it insoluble, and the aggregate thus obtained remains insoluble during use.

[0190] Inorganic substrates for adsorbing the dye are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium / sodium borosilicate, calcium / aluminum borosilicate or aluminum.

[0191] Among organic dyes, cochineal carmine can be mentioned. Products known by the following names can also be mentioned: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).

[0192] Examples of lakes can include products known by the name of D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0193] The pigment is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly at least 1% by weight, and even more particularly at least 2% by weight, based on the weight of the composition in question. More particularly, the content of the colorant is less than 50% by weight, more particularly from 0.05% to 30% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0194] Water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the colorant is a water-soluble dye or a fat-soluble dye.

[0195] The term "water-soluble colorant" for the purposes of the present invention means any natural or synthetic, usually organic, compound that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and is capable of imparting color.

[0196] The term "fat-soluble colorant" for the purposes of the present invention means any natural or synthetic, usually organic, compound that is soluble in an oily phase or a solvent showing miscibility with an oily phase and is capable of imparting color.

[0197] Suitable water-soluble dyes for use in the present invention include, in particular, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5 and FDC Blue 1.

[0198] Among the natural water-soluble dyes, anthocyanins can be mentioned.

[0199] As fat-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, in particular, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red and Sudan Brown which are fat-soluble dyes can be mentioned.

[0200] Examples of natural fat-soluble dyes include, in particular, carotenoids such as β-carotene, α-carotene and lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, anteraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No.6, CI 61565, 1,4-di-p-toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No.202, quinazine green SS) and chlorophyll.

[0201] The water-soluble or fat-soluble dye is preferably present in the composition according to the present invention in a content of less than 4% by mass, more preferably less than 2% by mass, still more preferably in the range of 0.01% to 2% by mass, and even better in the range of 0.02% to 1.5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0202] Thickener The composition according to the present invention can contain at least one aqueous phase thickener and / or at least one lipophilic phase thickener.

[0203] Aqueous phase thickener Examples of aqueous phase thickening polymers can be more specifically mentioned as follows: *Acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or salts and esters thereof, in particular products sold under the names Versicol F or Versicol K by Allied Colloid, under the name Ultrahold 8 by BASF, and polyacrylic acid and salts of polyacrylic acid of the Synthalen K type, in particular the sodium salt (corresponding to Acrylates Copolymer Na in INCI), more particularly sodium cross-linked polyacrylate sold under the name Luvigel EM by BASF (corresponding to Acrylates Copolymer Na(and)Glyceryl Tri(caprylate / caprate) in INCI), *Copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of its sodium salt under the name Reten by Hercules, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name Darvan No. 7 by Vanderbilt, and sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen F by Henkel, *Polyacrylic acid / acrylic acid alkyl copolymers, preferably modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, in particular, Acrylate / C 10 ~C 30 -alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: (Acrylates / Acrylic Acid Alkyl (C10 - 30)) Crosspolymer), for example, products sold under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol EDT 2020 by Lubrizol, and more preferentially products sold under the trade name Pemulen TR - 2, *Highly cross-linked polyacrylamide methylpropanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with aqueous ammonia, sold by Clariant, *Acrylamide propanesulfonic acid / acrylamide copolymers of the Sepigel or Simulgel type sold by SEPPIC, * The polyoxyethylenated acrylamide propane sulfonic acid / methacrylic acid alkyl copolymer (crosslinked or non-crosslinked) of the Aristoflex HMS type sold by Clariant, * The copolymer of hydroxyalkyl acrylic acid or its salt and acryloyldimethyltaurine salt monomer, for example, Sepinov EMT 10, a product sold by SEPPIC, and * These mixtures.

[0204] Examples of other aqueous phase thickening polymers can include the following: * Anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic chitin or chitosan polymers; * Cellulose polymers, for example, in addition to alkyl celluloses such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, ethylhydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, etc., quaternized cellulose derivatives; * Vinyl polymers, for example, polyvinylpyrrolidone, the copolymer of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, the copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; the copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; * Optionally modified natural-derived polymers, for example, galactomannan and its derivatives, for example, konjac gum, gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methyl carboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride, xanthan gum and its derivatives; * Alginates and carrageenans; and * These mixtures.

[0205] When the composition contains any aqueous phase thickener, its content ranges from 0.01% to 3% by mass, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by mass, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0206] Hydrophobic phase thickener Examples of hydrophobic phase thickeners include, most particularly, hydrophobic mineral-based thickeners such as modified clays, modified silicas or mixtures thereof.

[0207] Hydrophobically modified clay Clay is a silicate containing cations selected from calcium cations, magnesium cations, aluminum cations, sodium cations, potassium cations, lithium cations or mixtures thereof.

[0208] Examples of this type of product include vermiculite-based, stevensite-based or vermiculite-based clays in addition to smectite-based clays. These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0209] Preferably, organophilic clays, more particularly modified clays such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite or sepiolite and mixtures thereof are used. The clay is preferably bentonite or hectorite.

[0210] These clays are modified with compounds selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylaryl sulfonates or amine oxides and mixtures thereof.

[0211] Thus, quaternary amines, more specifically C 10 ~C 22Hectorite modified by fatty acid ammonium halides, such as chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium halide, preferably hectorite modified with chloride (CTFA name: distearyldimonium hectorite), such as those sold by Elementis under the names Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG or Bentone EW CE or stearalkonium hectorite, especially the Bentone 27 V product, etc. can be mentioned.

[0212] Quaternium-18 bentonite, such as those sold by Elementis under the name Bentone 34 in particular, by United Catalyst under the names Claytone 40, Tixogel VP, and by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonite, such as those sold by United Catalyst under the name Tixogel LG and by Southern Clay under the names Claytone AF and Claytone APA; or quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite, such as that sold by Southern Clay under the name Claytone HT can also be mentioned.

[0213] According to a preferred embodiment, the thickener is selected from organically modified clays, in particular organically modified hectorites, in particular those modified with benzyl dimethyl ammonium stearate or distearyldimethylammonium halide, especially those modified with chloride.

[0214] Modified silica Fumed silica with a hydrophobized surface can also be mentioned, and the particle size is preferably less than 1 μm. In fact, it becomes possible to chemically modify the silica surface by a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups present on the silica surface. In particular, the silanol groups can be replaced with hydrophobic groups, thereby obtaining hydrophobic silica. Next, hydrophobic silica is obtained. The hydrophobic groups can be the following: * Trimethylsilyl groups, especially those obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. The silica thus treated is known as silylated silica according to CTFA (6th Edition, 1995). These are sold, for example, under the reference names Aerosil R812 (registered trademark) by Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-530 (registered trademark) by Cabot. * Dimethylsilyloxy groups or polydimethylsiloxane groups, especially those obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane, such as hexamethyldisiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. The silica thus treated is known as dimethylsilylated silica according to CTFA (6th Edition, 1995). These are sold, for example, under the reference names Aerosil R972 (registered trademark) and Aerosil R974 (registered trademark) by Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-610 (registered trademark) and Cab-O-Sil TS-720 (registered trademark) by Cabot.

[0215] The particle size of the hydrophobic fumed silica can be especially in the nanometer scale to micrometer scale, for example, in the range of about 5 to 200 nm.

[0216] The composition according to the present invention may also contain at least silica aerogel particles.

[0217] Silica aerogel is a porous material obtained by replacing (drying) the liquid component of silica gel with air.

[0218] These are generally synthesized by the sol-gel method in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid. The most commonly used supercritical fluid is supercritical CO2. Performing this type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores of the material. The sol-gel method and various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J., and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

[0219] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles suitable for the implementation of the present invention have a specific surface area (S M ) per unit mass in the range of 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably in the range of 600 to 1200 m 2 / g, more preferably in the range of 600 to 800 m 2 / g. The diameter (D[0.5]) expressed as the volume median diameter is in the range of 1 to 1500 μm, more preferably in the range of 1 to 1000 μm, preferably 1 to 100 μm, particularly 1 to 30 μm, more preferably 5 to 25 μm, more preferably 5 to 20 μm, and even more preferably 5 to 15 μm.

[0220] According to an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the specific surface area (S M ) per unit mass of the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention is in the range of 600 to 800 m 2 / g, and the diameter (D[0.5]) expressed as the volume median diameter is in the range of 5 to 20 μm, even more preferably in the range of 5 to 15 μm.

[0221] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, which is described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the specific surface area of the entire particles of interest.

[0222] The diameter of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a particle size analyzer commercially available from Malvern, such as the MasterSizer 2000 apparatus. The data is processed based on the Mie scattering theory. This theory is accurate for isotropic particles and can determine the "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in the publication Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0223] According to a preferred embodiment, the specific surface area S per unit volume of the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention V is in the range of 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3 preferably in the range of 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 more preferably in the range of 15 to 40 m 2 / cm 3 of the range.

[0224] The aerogel used according to the present invention is a hydrophobic silica aerogel, preferably an aerogel of silylated silica (INCI name: silylated silica).

[0225] For the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference can be made to U.S. Patent No. 7,470,725.

[0226] Preferably, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a surface modified with trimethylsilyl groups will be used.

[0227] Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the present invention include, for example, an aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: silylated silica) by Dow Corning. These particles have an average diameter of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass in the range of 600 to 800 m 2 / g.

[0228] Aerogels sold under the reference names Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200 by Cabot can also be mentioned.

[0229] Preferably, an aerogel sold by Dow Corning under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silanized Silica), having an average particle diameter in the range of 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass in the range of 600 to 800 m 2 / g, will be used.

[0230] Preferably, the mineral thickener is selected from organophilic clays, especially modified hectorite; hydrophobized fumed silica; hydrophobic silica aerogel or mixtures thereof, and more particularly is selected from at least one organophilic modified clay or at least one hydrophobic modified silica, especially an organophilic modified clay.

[0231] More particularly, when the composition contains a hydrophobic phase thickener, its content expressed as an active substance occupies 0.2% to 2.5% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 2% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0232] Throughout this specification including the claims, the expression "comprising" should be understood to be synonymous with "comprising at least one" unless otherwise specified.

[0233] The expressions "... to..." and "in the range of... to..." should be understood to mean including the boundary values unless otherwise specified.

[0234] Furthermore, the sum of the amounts of the components of the composition represents 100% by mass of the composition.

[0235] The present invention will be described in more detail by the following examples.

[0236] Unless otherwise specified, the amounts shown here are expressed as mass percentages of the starting materials.

[0237] The starting materials are referred to by their chemical names or their INCI names.

Example

[0238] Example 1 In the following table, the amounts of each compound are shown as percentages / mass of the composition (the percentages are expressed as the mass of the starting materials unless otherwise specified).

[0239]

Table 1

[0240] Procedure Perform the following steps. 1. Mix Softisan 100 and octyldodecanol at 60°C, then pour this mixture into an aqueous dispersion of ethyl cellulose while stirring at 1200 rpm using a Rayneri disperser, and stir for 10 minutes. 2. Add xanthan and continue stirring for 30 minutes. 3. Then, introduce or spray the dye solubilized in water (Composition 1) into the mixture (Composition A), and continue stirring for 15 minutes. 4. Further, mix the liquid ester (Lipovol MOS-70) and candelilla resin, and heat the resulting mixture to 85°C. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, add cetyl alcohol and stir. 5. When the preparation becomes homogeneous, cool it to 55°C and pour it onto the mixture obtained as a result of Step 3. After emulsifying the entire mixture for 15 minutes, allow it to cool to ambient temperature while stirring (1200 rpm). Then, package the mixture in a bottle for gross (a bottle with a flocked applicator attached - reference name 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0241] Procedure for evaluating durability and transfer resistance: 1. Preparation of samples On the inner forearm in a 2 cm × 2 cm area, apply the composition in 4 layers without re - immersing the applicator in the bottle to make up. This operation is reproduced to have 4 constituent samples (a control sample and 3 samples to be tested: water, oil, transfer). Leave the product for 30 minutes to dry.

[0242] 2. Evaluate water resistance by passing a piece of absorbent cotton soaked in 1 ml of water once over the surface of the first sample. Compare the color of the deposit thus treated with the color of the control deposit.

[0243] 3. Evaluate oil resistance by passing a piece of absorbent cotton soaked in 0.5 ml of olive oil once over the surface of the second sample (with the same force as in the case of water resistance). Compare the color of the deposit thus treated with the color of the control deposit.

[0244] 4. Evaluate transfer resistance by pressing a tissue paper against the third sample and observing the amount of lipstick adhering to the tissue.

[0245] Evaluation of the composition: In any case, a stable and homogeneous liquid composition is obtained.

[0246] The composition is easily applied to the lips as a fine - grained and fresh - looking deposit, with very little stickiness and no bleeding.

[0247] It is recognized that the composition according to the present invention has better covering power and color vividness.

[0248] The composition does not transfer color.

[0249] On the other hand, it is recognized that the water resistance and oil resistance of the composition according to the present invention are significantly improved compared to the comparative composition.

[0250] Example 2 In the following table, the amounts of each compound are shown as percentages / mass of the composition (the percentages are expressed as the mass of the starting materials, unless otherwise specified).

[0251]

Table 2

[0252] Procedure Carry out the following steps. 1. Mix Softisan 100 and octyldodecanol at 60 °C, then pour this mixture into an aqueous dispersion of ethyl cellulose while stirring at 1200 rpm using a Rayneri disperser and stir for 10 minutes. 2. Add xanthan and continue stirring for 30 minutes. 3. Then introduce the dye solubilized in water and continue stirring for 15 minutes. 4. Further, mix neopentyl dicaprate and candelilla resin or myristoyl pullulan and heat the resulting mixture to 85 °C. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, add cetyl alcohol and stir. 5. When the preparation becomes homogeneous, cool it to 55 °C and pour it onto the mixture obtained as a result of Step 3. After emulsifying the whole mixture for 15 minutes, allow it to cool to ambient temperature while stirring. Then package the mixture in a bottle for gloss (a bottle with a flocked applicator attached - reference name 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0253] Evaluation of the composition: The resulting composition is liquid, homogeneous and stable.

[0254] All the compositions are easily applied to the lips as fine and fresh adherends, with very little stickiness and no bleeding. The adherends are vivid and have good covering power.

[0255] The composition according to the present invention, unlike the comparative composition, does not undergo color transfer (procedure defined in Example 1).

[0256] It is also recognized that the durability of the composition according to the present invention against water and oil is significantly improved (procedure defined in Example 1).

[0257] Example 3 In the following table, the amounts of each compound are shown as percentages / mass of the composition (percentages are expressed as the mass of the starting materials, unless otherwise specified).

[0258] [Table 3]

[0259] Procedure Perform the following steps. 1. Mix octyldodecanol and candelilla resin or carnauba resin at 85 °C with stirring. Once the mixture is homogeneous, add the (VP / eicosene) copolymer while maintaining stirring, and then Softisan 100. Once the mixture is homogeneous, cool it to 55 °C and then add it to the ethyl cellulose dispersion. 2. Then introduce the dye solubilized in water and continue stirring for 15 minutes. 3. Further, mix neopentyl dicaprate and candelilla resin or carnauba resin and heat the resulting mixture to 85 °C. Once the mixture is homogeneous, add cetyl alcohol and stir. 4. Once the preparation is homogeneous, cool it to 55 °C and pour it over the mixture obtained as a result of Step 3. After emulsifying the entire mixture for 15 minutes, allow it to cool to ambient temperature with stirring. Then package the mixture in a bottle for gloss (a bottle with a flocked applicator attached - reference name 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0260] Evaluation of the composition: The resulting composition is liquid, homogeneous and stable.

[0261] These are easily applied to the lips. The deposit has a fine texture, a fresh feel when applied, very little stickiness, and does not bleed.

[0262] The adhered matter does not transfer color and has very excellent water resistance and oil resistance (procedure defined in Example 1).

[0263] Example 4 In the following table, the amounts of each compound are shown as percentages / mass of the composition (the percentages are expressed as the mass of the starting materials unless otherwise specified).

[0264] [Table 4]

[0265] Procedure Perform the following steps. 1. Mix octyldodecanol and candelilla resin at 85 °C with stirring. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, add Softisan 100 while maintaining stirring, and then add the (VP / eicosene) copolymer. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, cool it to 55 °C and then add it to the ethyl cellulose dispersion and heat to 55 °C. 3. Add polysorbate 80, then emulsify the whole mixture for 15 minutes, and then allow it to cool to ambient temperature with stirring. 4. Then introduce the dye solubilized in water and continue stirring for 15 minutes. Then package the mixture in a bottle for gloss (a bottle with a flocked applicator attached - reference name 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0266] Evaluation of the composition: Compositions C and 5 are homogeneous and stable liquid compositions, but phase separation occurs in Composition D and the composition cannot be applied.

[0267] Compositions C and 5 are easily applied to the lips as a fine and fresh adhered matter, with very little stickiness and no bleeding. The adhered matter does not transfer color (procedure defined in Example 1).

[0268] Composition 5 according to the present invention has significantly improved water resistance and oil resistance compared to Comparative Composition C (procedure defined in Example 1).

[0269] Example 5 In the following table, the amounts of each compound are shown as percentages / mass of the composition (the percentages are expressed as the mass of the starting materials, unless otherwise specified).

[0270]

Table 5

[0271] Procedure Perform the following steps. 1. Mix Softisan 100 and octyldodecanol at 60 °C, then pour this mixture into an aqueous dispersion of ethyl cellulose while stirring at 1200 rpm using a Rayneri disperser and stir for 10 minutes. 2. Add xanthan and continue stirring for 30 minutes. 3. Then introduce the dye solubilized in water and continue stirring for 15 minutes. 4. Further, mix neopentyl dicaprate and candelilla resin and heat the resulting mixture to 85 °C. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, add cetyl alcohol and stir. 5. When the preparation becomes homogeneous, cool it to 55 °C and pour it onto the mixture obtained as a result of step 3. After emulsifying the whole mixture for 15 minutes, allow it to cool to ambient temperature while stirring. Then package the mixture in a bottle for gloss (a bottle with a flocked applicator attached - reference name 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0272] Evaluation of the composition: A stable and homogeneous liquid composition is obtained.

[0273] The composition is easily applied to the lips as a fine and fresh deposit, has very little stickiness, does not bleed, and does not transfer color (procedure of Example 1).

[0274] It is found that the composition is very excellent in covering power, color vividness, and water and oil resistance (procedure of Example 1).

[0275] Example 6 In the following table, the amounts of each compound are shown as percentages / mass of the composition (the percentages are expressed as the mass of the starting materials, unless otherwise specified).

[0276]

Table 6

[0277] Procedure The following steps are carried out. 1. Mix Softisan 100 and octyldodecanol at 60 °C, then pour this mixture into an aqueous dispersion of ethyl cellulose while stirring at 1200 rpm using a Rayneri disperser and stir for 10 minutes. 2. Add gellan gum and continue stirring for 30 minutes. 3. Then introduce the dye solubilized in water and continue stirring for 15 minutes. 4. Further, mix neopentyl dicaprate and candelilla resin and heat the resulting mixture to 85 °C. When the mixture has become homogeneous, add cetyl alcohol and stir. 5. When the preparation has become homogeneous, cool it to 55 °C and pour it over the mixture obtained as a result of step 3. After emulsifying the entire mixture for 15 minutes, allow it to cool to ambient temperature while stirring. Then package the mixture in a bottle for gloss (a bottle with a flocked applicator attached - reference name 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0278] Evaluation of the composition: A stable and homogeneous liquid composition is obtained.

[0279] The composition is easily applied to the lips as a fine and fresh - looking coating, has very little stickiness, does not bleed, and does not transfer color (procedure of Example 1).

[0280] It is found that the composition is very excellent in covering power, color vividness, and water and oil resistance (procedure of Example 1).

[0281] Example 7 In the following table, the amounts of the respective compounds are shown as percentages / mass of the composition (the percentages represent the mass of the starting materials, unless otherwise specified).

[0282]

Table 7

[0283] Procedure Perform the following steps. 1. Mix Softisan 100 and octyldodecanol at 60 °C, then pour this mixture into an aqueous dispersion of ethyl cellulose while stirring at 1200 rpm using a Rayneri disperser and stir for 10 minutes. 2. Add gellan gum and continue stirring for 30 minutes. 3. Then introduce the water-soluble dye and continue stirring for 15 minutes. 4. Further, mix dicaprylyl ether and candelilla resin and heat the resulting mixture to 85 °C. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, add cetyl alcohol and stir. 5. When the preparation becomes homogeneous, cool it to 55 °C and pour it onto the mixture obtained as a result of Step 3. After emulsifying the entire mixture for 15 minutes, allow it to cool to ambient temperature while stirring. Then package the mixture in a bottle for gloss (a bottle with a flocked applicator attached - reference name 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0284] Evaluation of the composition: A stable and homogeneous liquid composition is obtained.

[0285] The composition is easily applied to the lips as a fine and fresh coating, has very little stickiness, does not bleed, and does not transfer color (procedure of Example 1).

[0286] It is found that the covering power, color vividness, and water and oil resistance are very excellent (procedure of Example 1).

[0287] Comparative Example 8 In the following table, the amounts of each compound are shown as percentages / mass of the composition (percentages are expressed as the mass of the starting materials, unless otherwise specified).

[0288]

Table 8

[0289] Procedure Carry out the following steps. 1. Mix the (VP / eicosene) copolymer and octyldodecanol at 60 °C, then pour this mixture into an aqueous dispersion of ethyl cellulose while stirring at 1200 rpm using a Rayneri disperser and stir for 10 minutes. 2. Add gellan gum and continue stirring for 30 minutes. 3. Then introduce the dye solubilized in water and continue stirring for 15 minutes. 4. Further, mix neopentyl glycol and candelilla resin and heat the resulting mixture to 85 °C. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, add cetyl alcohol and stir. 5. When the preparation becomes homogeneous, cool it to 55 °C and pour it onto the mixture obtained as a result of step 3. After emulsifying the whole mixture for 15 minutes, allow it to cool to ambient temperature while stirring. Then package the mixture in a bottle for gloss (bottle - reference name 14030, Geka GmbH, with a flocked applicator attached).

[0290] Evaluation of the composition: The resulting composition is homogeneous, but lacks sufficient viscosity for uniform application.

[0291] Example 9 In the following table, the amounts of each compound are shown as percentages / mass of the composition (percentages are expressed as the mass of the starting materials, unless otherwise specified).

[0292]

Table 9

[0293] Procedure Perform the following steps. 1. Mix Softisan 100 and octyldodecanol at 60 °C, then pour this mixture into an aqueous dispersion of ethyl cellulose while stirring at 1200 rpm using a Rayneri stirrer, and stir for 10 minutes. 2. Add gellan gum and continue stirring for 30 minutes. 3. Then introduce the dye solubilized in water and continue stirring for 15 minutes. 4. Further, mix dicaprylyl ether and candelilla resin and heat the resulting mixture to 85 °C. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, add cetyl alcohol and stir. In the case of the comparative composition, add trimethylsiloxysilicate. 5. When the preparation becomes homogeneous, cool it to 55 °C and pour it onto the mixture obtained as a result of Step 3. After emulsifying the whole mixture for 15 minutes, allow it to cool to ambient temperature while stirring. Then package the mixture in a bottle for gloss (bottle - reference name 14030, Geka GmbH, with a flocked applicator attached).

[0294] Evaluation of the composition: In any case, a stable and homogeneous liquid composition is obtained.

[0295] Each composition can be easily applied to the lips as a coating with a fine and fresh texture, has very little stickiness, does not bleed, and does not transfer color (procedure of Example 1).

[0296] However, it is recognized that the composition according to the present invention is significantly superior in terms of covering power and color vividness.

[0297] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention is significantly superior in terms of water resistance and oil resistance (procedure of Example 1).

[0298] Example 10 In the following table, the amounts of each compound are shown as percentages / mass of the composition (the percentages represent the mass of the starting materials unless otherwise specified).

[0299]

Table 10

[0300] Procedure On the one hand, tricaprylin / capric glycerin, Softisan 100, and a part of octyldodecanol are mixed while stirring at 55°C, and then the mixture is added to Aquacoat ECD while stirring at 55°C. Add gellan gum and continue stirring for 30 minutes. Finally, add sucrose laurate and continue stirring for 45 minutes. On the other hand, the remaining octyldodecanol is mixed with N7 ethylcellulose at 55°C and stirred until a gel is obtained. When the composition contains candelilla resin, the remaining octyldodecanol and N7 ethylcellulose are mixed while stirring at 90°C, then candelilla resin is introduced while stirring, and stirring is continued until a homogeneous product is obtained. Cool this mixture to 60°C. Add the obtained gel to the mixture obtained above while stirring and stir at 55°C for 30 minutes (1300 rpm). Then introduce the dye while stirring at 45°C, and then introduce the preservative. Then the mixture is packaged in a gloss bottle (a bottle with a flocked applicator attached - reference name 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0301] Evaluation of the composition: In any case, a homogeneous and stable liquid composition is obtained.

[0302] In any composition, the texture is fine, and the fresh and moist adherend can be easily applied to the lips, does not bleed, and has very little stickiness.

[0303] The composition does not transfer color.

[0304] Furthermore, it is recognized that the water resistance and oil resistance of Composition 10 according to the present invention are significantly improved as compared with Comparative Composition G.

[0305] Example 11 In the following table, the amounts of each compound are shown as percentages / mass of the composition (the percentages are expressed as the mass of the starting materials, unless otherwise specified).

[0306]

Table 11

[0307] Procedure Neopentyl glycol dicaprate, octyldodecanol, cetyl alcohol, and candelilla wax are mixed while stirring at 80 °C, then the mixture is cooled to 55 °C and added to Aquacoat ECD while stirring at 55 °C. Gellan gum is added and stirring is continued for 30 minutes. Then the dye is introduced while stirring. After cooling the mixture to 30 °C, the preservative is added. Then the mixture is allowed to cool and is packaged in a gloss bottle (a bottle with a flocked applicator attached - reference symbol 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0308] Evaluation of the composition: A homogeneous and stable liquid composition is obtained.

[0309] The fine and fresh - looking deposit adheres easily to the lips, with very little stickiness. The deposit does not bleed.

[0310] It is also confirmed that this deposit does not transfer color and that the water resistance and oil resistance of the composition are very good (procedure of Example 1).

[0311] Example 12 In the following table, the amounts of each compound are shown as percentages / mass of the composition (the percentages are expressed as the mass of the starting materials, unless otherwise specified).

[0312]

Table 12

[0313] Procedure On the one hand, tricaprylin / capric glycerin, Softisan 100, and a part of octyldodecanol are mixed while stirring at 55°C, and then the mixture is added to Aquacoat ECD while stirring at 55°C. Xanthan gum is added and stirring is continued for 30 minutes. Finally, sucrose laurate is added and stirring is continued for 45 minutes. The remainder of octyldodecanol and N7 ethylcellulose are mixed at 90°C while stirring, then candelilla resin is introduced while stirring, and stirring is continued until a homogeneous product is obtained. This mixture is cooled to 60°C. The gel obtained above is added to the mixture obtained above while stirring, and stirred at 55°C for 30 minutes (1300 rpm). Then the dye is introduced while stirring at 45°C, and then the preservative is introduced. Then the mixture is allowed to cool and packaged in a gloss bottle (a bottle with a flocked applicator attached - reference name 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0314] Evaluation of the composition: A homogeneous and stable liquid composition is obtained.

[0315] The composition with fine and fresh texture adheres easily to the lips, with very little stickiness. The adherent does not bleed.

[0316] It is also recognized that the adherent does not transfer color, and the water resistance and oil resistance of the composition are very good (procedure of Example 1).

Claims

1. A liquid cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, comprising: - ethyl cellulose in an amount of 4% to 25% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, represented as an active substance; - at least one natural resin; - at least one first non-volatile oil that is liquid at 25 °C and is selected from saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched C 10 ~C 26 fatty alcohols; - at least one hydrocarbon-based compound having an ester group, which is solid at ambient temperature; at least one second non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil which is liquid at ambient temperature and is different from the first oil and is selected from ester oils, ether oils or carbonate oils; or a mixture thereof A liquid cosmetic composition containing the same.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of ethyl cellulose represented as an active substance is 5% to 20% by mass, more preferably 6% to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

3. The at least one resin is selected from a) alkaloid resins, b) amber, c) asphalticite and gilsonite, d) Peru balsam, e) Tolu balsam, f) benzoin resin, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resin, i) dammar, j) elemi, k) frankincense, l) galbanum, m) labdanum, n) mastic, o) myrrh, p) sandarac, q) shellac, r) styrax, s) Venetian turpentine, t) rosins, especially rosin and rosinates and tall oil, v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes and mixtures of said resins; preferably, the natural resin is selected from frankincense resin and resins extracted from vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof; the resin can be esterified, salt-formed, added, phenol-modified, dimerized and / or hydrogenated. The composition according to claim 1 or 2.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising at least one resin, wherein the INCI name of the at least one resin comprises at least one of the following terms: Euphorbia Cerifera wax extract, candelilla wax extract, Protium heptaphyllum resin, Shorea Robusta resin and mixtures thereof.

5. The resin contains at least 30% terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by mass of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% of terpene compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% by mass of terpene compounds, based on the total mass of the resin, and is characterized in that the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4.

6. The resin contains at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by mass, preferably at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 35% by mass of polyterpene compounds, based on the total mass of the resin, and is characterized in that the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5.

7. The resin contains less than 70% by mass of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, preferably less than 60% by mass, preferably less than 50% by mass, preferably less than 30% by mass, preferably less than 15% by mass of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, based on the total mass of the resin representing 100%, and is characterized in that the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6.

8. The resin has a number average molecular weight in the range of 10,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably 5,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 5,000 g / mol, even more preferably 2,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 2,000 g / mol, and even more preferably 1,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 1,000 g / mol, and is characterized in that the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7.

9. The resin preferably has a glass transition temperature in the range of 0°C to 200°C, more preferably in the range of 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably in the range of 20°C to 90°C, and even more preferably in the range of 30°C to 70°C, and is characterized in that the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.

10. The resin preferably has a softening point in the range of 20°C to 150°C, more preferably in the range of 30°C to 100°C, and even more preferably in the range of 40°C to 90°C, and is characterized in that the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.

11. The content of the natural resin accounts for 0.5% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 10% by mass, and even more preferably 0.5% to 8% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, and is characterized in that the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

12. The first oil is selected from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof; preferably, the first oil is octyldodecanol, and the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 is characterized thereby.

13. The content of the first oil ranges from 0.5% by mass to less than 20% by mass, more specifically from 2% by mass to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, and the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 is characterized thereby.

14. The content of the first oil ranges from 20 to 60% by mass, more specifically from 20 to 40% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, and the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 is characterized thereby.

15. The at least one hydrocarbon-based second oil that is liquid at ambient temperature is * An ether of the formula ROR' or a carbonate of the formula RO(CO)OR' (wherein the R groups and R' groups, which may be the same or different, are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based groups containing up to 16 carbon atoms, preferably C 3 -C 16 groups); * a hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oil; * an optionally hydroxylated ester oil containing 1 to 4 ester groups, wherein at least one of the ester groups is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic and contains at least 10 carbon atoms, the optionally hydroxylated ester oil; * a liquid polyester obtained from the reaction of a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated dimer acid, wherein the fatty acid contains 16 to 22 carbon atoms, the liquid polyester; and * mixtures thereof and is selected from the group consisting of, and the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 is characterized thereby.

16. When the composition contains any second oil, the content of the second oil ranges from 2% by mass to 35% by mass, more specifically from 5% by mass to 30% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, and the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 is characterized thereby.

17. The hydrocarbon-based compound having an ester group that is solid at ambient temperature is * vegetable butter, * a completely or partially hydrogenated vegetable oil, * vegetable wax, * beeswax, synthetic beeswax, lanolin wax, * Hydrogenated castor oil and C 16 ~ C 22 esters with fatty acids, * Saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched, optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, optionally hydrogenated, preferably C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglycerides, * a wax obtained by hydrogenating a vegetable oil esterified with a fatty alcohol, particularly lauryl, stearyl, cetyl or behenyl alcohol, etc. * Formula R 1 COOR 2 (In the formula, R 1 and R 2 represent a linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain having 10 to 50 carbon atoms and may contain heteroatoms, particularly oxygen), an ester *(C 2 ~C 4 ) The number of oxyalkylene units can range from 2 to 100, and the number of glycerol units can range from 1 to 20. A natural or synthetic polyalkylenated or polyglycerolized hydrocarbon wax derived from animals or plants, * Linear or branched C 6 ~C 10 dicarboxylic acid, diglycerol, and optionally a linear or branched C that has been hydroxylated 6 ~C 20 polyester obtained from the condensation of an ester with a monocarboxylic acid * a polyester obtained from a dimer acid that is unsaturated and contains 16 to 24 carbon atoms and, for example, at least one alcohol or polyol; * these mixtures The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it is selected from.

18. The hydrocarbon compound that is solid at ambient temperature is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched, optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, optionally hydrogenated, preferably C 12 -C 18 The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that it is selected from fatty acid triglycerides.

19. The content of the hydrocarbon-based compound that is solid at ambient temperature is at least 15% by mass, more specifically at least 20% by mass, preferably 20% by mass to 60% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 or 15 to 18, characterized in that.

20. The content of the hydrocarbon compound that is solid at ambient temperature, when the composition contains them, the content of the hydrocarbon compound that is solid at room temperature is less than 0 to 15% by mass, preferably 0 to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 or 14 to 18, characterized in that.

21. The water content is in the range of 20% by mass to 60% by mass, more specifically 25% by mass to 50% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, characterized in that.

22. At least one C 1 to C 5 of preferably saturated monoalcohols, more specifically optionally contained in a content of 0% by mass to 10% by mass based on the total mass of the composition, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21.

23. At least two hydroxyl groups, preferably containing 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 2 to C 8 , more particularly C 3 to C 6 At least one polyol selected from hydrocarbon compounds that is liquid at 15 ° C and atmospheric pressure, more particularly optionally contained in an amount of 0% to 20% by mass based on the total mass of the composition, The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 22, characterized in that.

24. When the composition contains any non-volatile silicone oil, it has a content of non-volatile silicone oil of 10% by mass or less, more specifically 4% by mass or less, more specifically 2% by mass or less, advantageously 1% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition, and is advantageously free of non-volatile silicone oil, The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23, characterized in that.

25. When the composition contains any volatile hydrocarbon-based oil or silicone oil, it has a content of volatile hydrocarbon-based oil or silicone oil of 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition, The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 24, characterized in that.

26. When the composition contains any non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, it has a content of non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of 0% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, and is advantageously free of non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 25, characterized in that.

27. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 26, characterized in that it contains at least one colorant selected in particular from pigments, dyes and mixtures thereof.

28. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 27, characterized in that it is in the form of a positive (oil-in-water) emulsion.

29. A method of making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, preferably the lips, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 28.

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