Manufacturing methods for watch parts
The method of using a structured insert with a patterned template and molding resin allows for the production of watch and jewelry components with complex and varied textures, addressing the limitations of existing methods by enhancing accuracy and versatility.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- ROLEX SA
- Filing Date
- 2026-05-01
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-29
AI Technical Summary
Existing methods for manufacturing watch and jewelry components, particularly bracelet chains, lack versatility, accuracy, and complexity in producing textured surfaces, making them unsuitable for small batch production and unable to replicate complex or varied patterns.
A method involving the use of a structured insert manufactured from a template element with a patterned surface, coated with a molding resin that replicates the pattern, allowing for the creation of a structured insert which is then used in a mold to produce watch or jewelry components with precise, complex, and varied textures.
Enables the production of watch and jewelry components with predetermined functionalities, such as hydrophilic or hydrophobic properties, and complex shapes, suitable for small batch production, with high accuracy and versatility in pattern replication.
Smart Images

Figure 2026123210000001_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a structured insert for a mold for manufacturing watch or jewelry parts. The present invention also relates to a method for manufacturing watch or jewelry parts using the structured insert. The present invention also relates to a watch part itself obtained by using the method, particularly a bracelet chain, specifically an elastomer bracelet chain.
Background Art
[0002] In horology, forming a bracelet chain from an elastomer material is a common practice. It is desirable that the surface of such a bracelet chain can be formed into a selected, particularly attractive appearance.
[0003] To achieve such a result, it is known to manufacture a bracelet chain using a steel mold, the shape of which directly forms a predetermined texture on the bracelet chain. Such an approach has a first drawback of lack of versatility because the mold needs to be changed to change the appearance of the bracelet. For this reason, such a solution is not suitable for small batch production. Such a solution also has a second drawback that it does not enable the production of all textures or at least enables production only with insufficient accuracy. Finally, manufacturing a textured surface on the mold is often complex and delicate, and such a surface cannot be repaired in case of modification, which is the third drawback of the solution.
[0004] Another, additional solution consists of changing the appearance of the surface of the bracelet chain after leaving the mold using one or more additional finishing steps, for example a calendaring finishing step. The approach makes the method more complex by adding one or more additional steps. Furthermore, the approach does not enable the formation of all types of textures.
Prior Art Documents
Patent Documents
[0005] [Patent Document 1] European Patent Application Publication No. 2783592 [Overview of the project] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]
[0006] The object of the present invention is to improve known methods for manufacturing watch or jewelry components, and in particular to achieve all or part of the following objectives.
[0007] A first object of the present invention is to enable the manufacture of watch or jewelry components having predetermined technical functionality, in particular hydrophilic or hydrophobic properties, and / or an attractive aesthetic appearance, in particular a structured surface with a selected pattern.
[0008] A second object of the present invention is to enable the manufacture of watch or jewelry components that include an elastomer-based structured surface.
[0009] A third object of the present invention is to enable the manufacture of watch or jewelry components that include structured surfaces with complex shapes.
[0010] A fourth object of the present invention is to enable the manufacture of watch or jewelry components that include a structured surface suitable for small production lots, particularly for the purpose of easily changing the pattern of the structured surface of the watch component being manufactured. [Means for solving the problem]
[0011] Therefore, the present invention relates to a method for manufacturing structured inserts for molds used in the manufacture of watch or jewelry components, particularly for the manufacture of bracelet chains, wherein the method is Provides a template element (or model element) that includes a structured surface having a pattern to be replicated on the surface of a watch component. The structured surface of the template element is coated with a molding resin capable of replicating the negative pattern of the pattern on the structured surface, and the molding resin is solidified to obtain a structured insert. The structured insert is separated from the template element, and the structured insert includes a surface containing the negative pattern. Optionally, cut the structured insert into the format corresponding to at least a portion of the watch components to be manufactured. Based on a method for manufacturing structured inserts, including steps.
[0012] The present invention also, - At least one relief, measured perpendicular to the structured surface, with a height in the range of 1 nm to 2 mm, or 1 nm to 500 μm, or 1 nm to 10 μm, or 1 nm to 10 nm, and / or - Multiple intersecting reliefs, and / or - At least one cavity including the lower section, the opening of which is narrower than its maximum width or has a larger area than other parallel sections located above the lower section parallel to the structured surface, Including all or some of the features of, including structured surfaces, including single and optionally integrally molded parts, Regarding watch components made of elastomer material, particularly bracelet chains.
[0013] The present invention also relates to an assembly comprising a template element and such a watch component, wherein the watch component includes a structured surface that replicates the structured surface of the template element with a resolution of 1 μm or less, or 100 nm or less, or 10 nm or less, or 1 nm or less.
[0014] The present invention is defined more specifically by the claims.
[0015] The objects, features, and advantages of the present invention will be described in detail in the following description of specific embodiments provided as non-limiting examples, with reference to the accompanying drawings.
Brief Description of the Drawings
[0016] [Figure 1] FIG. 1 is a diagram schematically showing the steps of a method for manufacturing a structured insert according to an embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 2] FIGS. 2a to 2d are cross-sectional views of cavities formed on the surface of a template element according to an embodiment of the method of the present invention. [Figure 3] FIGS. 3a to 3c are diagrams schematically showing the steps of a method for manufacturing a watch part according to an embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 4] FIG. 4 shows a template element used in the method according to an embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 5] FIG. 5 is an exploded assembly view of the structured surface of the template element of FIG. 4. [Figure 6] FIG. 6 is a top perspective view of a bracelet chain manufactured according to an embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 7] FIG. 7 is an exploded assembly view of the structured surface of the bracelet chain of FIG. 6. [Figure 8] FIG. 8 shows a template element according to another example and the corresponding bracelet chain as a result of the manufacturing method of the present invention. [Figure 9] FIG. 9 shows a template element according to another embodiment of the manufacturing method of the present invention.
Modes for Carrying Out the Invention
[0017] The present invention achieves the intended purpose by using an intermediate manufacturing of a structured insert that is intended to be inserted into a mold for manufacturing a watch or jewelry part in order to form a structured surface of a watch part manufactured by a mold.
[0018] Embodiments of the present invention will be described in the context of the manufacture of elastomer bracelets. Of course, the present invention can be used in the manufacture of watch or jewelry components other than elastomers.
[0019] The method for manufacturing watch components includes a first phase in which a structured insert is manufactured for a mold used to manufacture watch components, as schematically shown in Figure 1.
[0020] The method includes a first step E1, which involves providing a template element 50 having a structured surface 51 having a pattern to be replicated. The pattern on the structured surface of the template element is called the “master pattern.” The master pattern is an existing pattern that is to be replicated on the surface of a bracelet chain with a very high degree of accuracy and in the same manner. The template element may also be called the “master.”
[0021] A structured surface is understood to be a surface having positive and / or negative reliefs, i.e., protruding or recessed relative to the surface. These reliefs form a master pattern of the structured surface. Furthermore, the structured surface may or may not be flat, and may be curved, for example. As will become apparent in the following description, the method according to the present invention advantageously allows for the replication of a wide variety of master patterns, including complex patterns and / or very small dimensions, particularly patterns with micrometer or nanometer dimensions. Of course, the present invention does not relate to the master pattern itself, which can be any pattern.
[0022] For example, the master pattern may be a natural pattern, such as a pattern present on the surface of animal hides, leather, crocodile skin, tree bark, leaves, microcrystals, particularly silicon carbide crystals or ruthenium crystals. Alternatively, the master pattern may be unnatural or artificial, manufactured on a natural or unnatural substrate using known techniques such as traditional machining or leather etching. For example, the master pattern may be formed from a textured metal by abrasion, particularly the formation of other shapes with a sunray or satin finish, traditional etching, laser, or electrochemistry, or from a wafer with electroformed decoration obtained by depositing metal into a cavity of a photopolymerizable photosensitive resin, or from the surface of a silicon wafer or a textile fabric. More generally, if the master pattern is unnatural or artificial, it can be obtained using any known technique. The master pattern can also be manufactured on a substrate, where the master pattern and the substrate form a template element. Alternatively, the master pattern can also be obtained when manufacturing the template element. For example, the template element and / or master pattern can be obtained by additive manufacturing or 3D printing. Such methods for manufacturing template elements and / or master patterns have the advantage of producing diverse and complex designs quickly and in a highly versatile manner.
[0023] As described above, the master pattern may be complex. For example, the master pattern may include a hollow portion that forms a cavity of a complex shape, particularly having an opening narrower than its width, or more broadly, a lower region parallel to the structured surface, which has a larger surface area than other parallel regions located on that lower region, i.e., a cavity having a shape that has a bottleneck when the cavity is demolded.
[0024] Figures 2a to 2d show examples of complex cavities, shown as cross-sections, in a plane perpendicular to the structured surface 51 of a template element, the structured surface 51 containing at least one such complex cavity 52, or multiple identical or different complex cavities. Such a complex cavity 52 includes an opening 53 that opens into the structured surface 51 and extends in the depth direction of the template element. The complex cavity 52, as shown in these drawings, includes at least one region, the maximum width L of the region in a plane parallel to the structured surface 51 being greater than the width I of the opening 53. More generally, the complex cavity may include a first region parallel to the structured surface 51 of the template element, having a larger area than a second superimposed parallel region located above the first parallel region, i.e., closer to the opening 53. The specific features of such cavity shapes stem from the fact that they introduce complexity in the demolding step of an injection molding method, which involves injecting material into the cavity. This is because the cavity contains a narrow area that forms a bottleneck in removing the solidified injection-molded material.
[0025] The complexity may also stem from a great many juxtaposed or intersecting, protruding, and / or recessed reliefs.
[0026] Finally, complexity may stem from the resolution of the master pattern, which can involve very small dimensions. For example, the structured surface 51 of the template element may include at least one relief, where the height H of the relief, measured perpendicular to the structured surface 51, is in the range of 1 nm to 2 mm, or 1 nm to 500 μm, or 1 nm to 10 μm, or 1 nm to 10 nm. Thus, the structured surface 51 of the template element may include at least one millimeter relief, or at least one micrometer relief, or at least one nanometer relief, or a combination of millimeter relief and / or micrometer relief and / or nanometer relief.
[0027] The present invention has the advantage of enabling the replication of complex patterns and being compatible with the replication of a wide variety of textures. Of course, the present invention is compatible with any texture other than those exemplified and can also be implemented for the replication of simple textures.
[0028] The method then includes a second step E2, which involves, after the molding resin has solidified, covering the structured surface of the template element 50 with a molding resin capable of replicating the negative pattern of the master pattern of the template element, in order to obtain a structured insert 10.
[0029] Advantageously, the molding resin has a pressure range of 0.5 to 70,000 Pa.s. -1 Between, or from 0.5 to 30,000 Pa.s -1 Between, or 0.5 to 1,000 Pa.s -1 It has a pre-solidification viscosity at room temperature and ambient pressure in the range of [value]. Such a selection facilitates the penetration of the molding resin into the cavities of the structured surface of the template element 50, including complex cavities. As a result, the molding resin penetrates even the smallest corners of the structured surface of the template element 50 to replicate the shape of the structured surface with great accuracy. As it solidifies, all the details of the surface to which the molding resin has been applied are replicated with great accuracy. The accuracy of the replication may be on the order of micrometers or nanometers.
[0030] For example, the molding resin includes polyurethane, latex, acrylic resin, fluoroelastomers such as FKM, PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane), epoxy resin, or two-component silicones, particularly vinyl polydimethylsiloxanes, or especially vinyl, silicic acid, and agglomerating materials, particularly two-component addition-type vulcanized silicones. The molding resin may also contain one or more additives selected from additives, agglomerating materials, and colorants.
[0031] Alternatively, more viscous resins, pastes, or solid materials such as raw fluororubber (FKM) can also be used. In this case, it is advantageous that high pressure is applied to the resin to allow it to penetrate all reliefs of the template element, especially into the cavities. A compromise is sought to define the pressure to be applied in order to accurately replicate the master pattern without damaging the template element.
[0032] After solidification, the molding resin forms a resin-structured insert 10. Preferably, the structured insert 10 is flexible. In particular, the flexibility is adapted to allow release from the template element 50, especially when the template element contains a complex cavity pattern. Advantageously, the molding resin exhibits little to no shrinkage in order to faithfully replicate and maintain the characteristics of the pattern to be replicated. For example, the shrinkage is 2‰ or less, or 1‰ or less. After solidification, the molding resin is selected to achieve flexibility compatible with the extracted stress, calculated using the following formula.
[0033]
number
[0034] The higher the extraction stress, the more flexible and elastic the molding resin needs to be so that the resulting structured insert can be removed without degradation while maintaining the integrity of the reproduced texture. In other words, the molding resin is selected to form a structured insert 10 that can be separated from the template element without damaging the template element or the structured insert.
[0035] Preferably, the solidification of the molding resin is considered to be the process by which the pattern of the master pattern is produced, and corresponds to the polymerization of the molding resin. Solidification involves two steps: the resin is set, then the resin feels dry to the touch, and then the resin is cured, achieving the final mechanical properties of the resin.
[0036] The polymerization reaction rate of molding resins used to solidify patterns is generally fast. In particular, the polymerization time at room temperature is in the range of 1 to 30 minutes, preferably 1 to 15 minutes. For example, especially when using two-component silicone, the solidification time at room temperature (20°C) is in the range of 15 to 90 seconds. The curing time is between 1 and 10 minutes. For this reason, selecting this silicone as a molding resin is particularly advantageous. Its solidification time is short, and it can be implemented with very simple introduction.
[0037] The method further includes a third step E3, which involves separating the structured insert 10 from the template element 50, wherein the structured insert 10 includes a structured surface 11 that replicates a negative master pattern.
[0038] As described above, the solidified molding resin maintains a level of flexibility that allows for easy demolding from the template element 50 without damaging the pattern of the structured surface 11. For this reason, the structured insert 10 includes a structured surface 11 that corresponds as a negative to an identical replica of the structured surface 51 of the template element 50.
[0039] Preferably, before the application of the molding resin, the template element is cleaned to have a receiving surface that is completely free of contamination when the molding resin is applied, including the structured surface to be replicated. Optionally, the surface may also be coated with a release agent. Thus, separation of the structured insert 10 from the template element 50 is easy because the structured insert can be easily demolded without adhering to the template element. As a result, the molding resin leaves no residue on the surface of the template element and maintains an intact, undamaged structured surface that completely replicates the structured surface of the template element.
[0040] Advantageously, structured inserts have compression durability while maintaining sufficient flexibility, resulting in hardness in the range of 20 to 90 Shore A, 20 to 40 Shore A, 50 to 70 Shore A, or 80 to 90 Shore A. As mentioned above, this durability, combined with the flexibility of the insert, is suitable for the template element in which it is used.
[0041] In addition, the resulting structured insert 10 has sufficient flexibility to conform to any non-planar shape of the mold surface where the insert is intended to be positioned, as described below. Therefore, the apparent coefficient of 100% deformation of the structured insert 10 is advantageously less than 300 MPa, or less than 50 MPa, or less than 10 MPa. Furthermore, the seamless tear resistance of the structured insert 10 according to ISO standard 34-1 B(a) is preferably 5 or greater, or greater than 10.
[0042] According to an advantageous embodiment, the structured insert 10 is obtained directly after the demolding step of the molded resin. Optionally, the method includes an additional step of cutting the molded resin separated from the template element in order to form the structured insert into its final format.
[0043] Furthermore, the method may include any additional steps of depositing a release agent film onto the structured insert 10, particularly by coating, by chemical vapor deposition (CVD) or physical vapor deposition (PVD), by electron layer growth (ALD), by sol-gel deposition, or by self-assembled film (SAM) deposition, or by depositing a fluorinated film onto the structured insert, for example, from a material selected from polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), fluorinated ethylene propylene (FEP), or perfluoroalkoxy (PFA).
[0044] Subsequently, the method for manufacturing the watch component includes a second phase for manufacturing such a watch component, as shown in Figures 3a to 3c, and the method uses a structured insert 10 manufactured by the above-described method for manufacturing structured inserts, which forms the first phase of the method for manufacturing the watch component.
[0045] The method includes a fourth step E4, as shown in Figure 3a, which involves positioning the structured insert 10 into a mold 1 for manufacturing watch components, particularly into a metal mold made of, for example, steel. Advantageously, this positioning simply involves inserting the structured insert 10 into a housing provided in the mold for this purpose, in a manner that is sufficiently secure to hold it in place. Thus, the insert is held in place in the mold, advantageously without gluing or fixing. The mold housing is a cavity, and its shape and thickness correspond to the shape and thickness of the structured insert.
[0046] The structured insert 10 can take on any shape and can occupy all or part of the mold surface. Furthermore, the structured insert is flexible enough to perfectly conform to the shape of the housing provided to receive it without any gaps. The material of the structured insert also means that it does not adhere to the mold. For this reason, the structured insert can be easily removed from the mold without the need to add a release agent to the mold surface.
[0047] Of course, according to an advantageous embodiment, the structured insert 10 may be manufactured in the first phase as a resting shape (corresponding to the shape of the template element) corresponding to the shape of the mold housing, so as to fit perfectly into the housing without (or with little) need for deformation.
[0048] The method then includes step E5, as shown in Figure 3b, which involves filling the manufacturing mold 1 containing the structured insert 10 with part material, which fills the negative mold pattern of the structured surface of the structured insert 10, and then solidifying the part material to obtain a blank 20 of a watch part containing a structured surface containing an identical replica of the master pattern of the template element.
[0049] Advantageously, the component material is an elastomer or based on an elastomer, i.e., it contains at least 50% by weight of elastomer. In particular, the elastomer may be a fluoroelastomer (FKM, FFKM, or FEPM), or a natural (NR) or synthetic (SBR, HNBR, EPDM) rubber, or vinyl methyl silicone (VMQ) or fluorosilicone (FVMQ). Alternatively, the component material is a thermoplastic or thermosetting polymer, provided that the shape of the structure allows the insert to be separated from the component without degrading the component. The component material is selected to suit the specific, more or less complex shape of the watch component to be manufactured, where the most complex shape requires the use of a component material with the most efficient mechanical properties.
[0050] Therefore, watch components are advantageously flexible. Furthermore, watch components may have a non-planar resting shape derived from the shape of the manufacturing mold. This shape is advantageously curved or arcuate, particularly convex or concave. Therefore, watch components are advantageously curved or arcuate, particularly convex or concave. Watch components may be rigid at rest, that is, they may maintain a predetermined resting shape, which may be advantageously corrected by elastic deformation due to the flexible material used, particularly in the case of bracelets.
[0051] It should be noted that the resin used for molding the structured insert is, of course, selected to be compatible with the conditions for filling the mold 1 with the part material. In particular, the structured insert must withstand the vulcanization conditions of the elastomer forming the watch part. For this purpose, the structured insert must withstand temperatures of 160°C, or up to 180°C, or up to 250°C, for at least 15 minutes, and preferably several hours. At these temperatures, the structured insert can also withstand pressures in the range of 80 bar to 150 bar, or 80 bar to 90 bar, without deformation. In addition, the structured insert can advantageously withstand several elastomer vulcanization cycles, for example, 5 to 15 minutes each.
[0052] Therefore, step E5, which involves filling the manufacturing mold, advantageously includes casting or injection molding of the component material, enabling the formation of a watch component as a single unit, including a structured surface.
[0053] The method then includes step E6, which involves removing the watch component blank 20 from the mold.
[0054] Advantageously, in the removal step, the structured inserts 10 remain fixed to the blank 20 because they are arranged alternately on the structured surface as shown in Figure 3c, and because the structured inserts do not adhere to the manufacturing mold. In this case, the structured inserts 10 perform a second function of protecting the structured surface of the watch part blank 20. The blank 20 can undergo one or more further optional steps E7 involving finishing the part, such as deburring, sandblasting, engraving, and / or decoration, during which the structured surface remains completely intact due to the protection of the structured inserts 10. The method then includes step E8, which involves separating the watch part blank 20 from the structured inserts 10 in order to obtain the watch part.
[0055] Alternatively, the structured insert 10 may be separated from the blank 20 in step E6, which involves removing the blank 20 from the mold 1. The structured insert 10 can then be reused in the mold to manufacture a new blank and other identical watch components.
[0056] Thus, the present invention achieves its intended purpose and, more generally, has the following advantages. - The manufacturing method is simple and inexpensive to implement. For example, it does not require forming complex and less durable textures on the surface of the steel mold. - Allows you to obtain watch parts, including highly accurate replicas of template element patterns. - Structured inserts are easy to manufacture, and it is possible to introduce structured inserts with different patterns within the same manufacturing mold, making the method compatible with small-batch production.
[0057] The present invention also relates to a structured insert for a mold used to manufacture watch parts, which is made of resin and features a structured surface including a negative pattern of a pattern to be replicated on the watch part.
[0058] Such structured inserts are characterized in that their negative pattern has all or some of the following features. - At least one raised relief, measured perpendicular to the structured surface of the template element, in the range of 1 nm to 2 mm, or 1 nm to 500 μm, or 1 nm to 10 μm, or 1 nm to 10 nm, and / or - Multiple intersecting reliefs, and / or - At least one cavity, including a lower section whose opening is narrower than its width, or which has a larger area than other sections located above the lower section.
[0059] The structured insert may be flexible, and the apparent coefficient of deformation at 100% is 300 MPa or less, or 50 MPa or less, or 10 MPa or less.
[0060] The structured insert exhibits a hardness in the range of 20 to 90 Shore A, or 20 to 40 Shore A, or 50 to 70 Shore A, or 80 to 90 Shore A. The cleavage-free tear resistance of the structured insert 10 is preferably 5 or higher, or 10 or higher.
[0061] The structured insert can withstand temperatures of 160°C, 180°C, or 250°C for at least 15 minutes, or at least 1 or 2 hours. At these temperatures, the structured insert can withstand maximum pressures ranging from 80 bar to 150 bar without deformation.
[0062] Structured inserts can be used for a single application or for manufacturing small quantities of watch parts, such as up to 50 watch parts.
[0063] The present invention also relates to a watch or jewelry component itself obtained using the method according to the present invention. As described above, such a watch component may be a bracelet. In an alternative embodiment, the watch component may be any external component of a small watch bracelet, such as a small watch bezel or case.
[0064] Such watch components have a structured surface that defines a potentially complex pattern. The pattern may include, for example, at least one cavity, which includes a lower section having an opening narrower than its width or a larger area than other sections located above the lower section. The watch component may include at least one relief, measured perpendicular to the structured surface, with a height in the range of 1 nm to 2 mm, 1 nm to 500 μm, 1 nm to 10 μm, or 1 nm to 10 nm. The watch component may be formed in whole or in part as a single unit, or as a standalone unit. The watch component may include one or more inserts, such as reinforcing strips, as disclosed in Patent Document 1. The structured surface may include a plurality of intersecting reliefs.
[0065] The present invention also relates to a small watch bracelet comprising at least one of the aforementioned watch components.
[0066] The present invention also relates to an assembly comprising a template element and a watch component, wherein the assembly includes a structured surface that replicates the structured surface of the template element with a resolution of 1 μm or less, or 100 nm or less, or 10 nm or less.
[0067] To illustrate the results, various embodiments of the manufacturing of bracelets using the method according to the present invention are presented.
[0068] According to the first embodiment, the selected “master” pattern, as shown in Figure 4, is formed from silicon carbide crystals, for example, from the top surface of a silicon carbide disc, and represents the selected template element. Figure 5 shows an exploded view of the top surface showing the texture. The structured surface under consideration extends on a plane. The structured surface is cleaned, degreased, and then dried. A two-component silicon containing vinyl, silicic acid, and an agglomerating material is used to manufacture the structured insert. This material may be known by the trade names Plastiform® F50 or Plastiform® F85. The two components of the silicon are mixed in an injection gun, thereby allowing the mixture to be deposited on a portion of the structured surface of the template element, i.e., on the top surface of the silicon carbide disc. The resin is deposited on the surface as a layer with a thickness of 0.5 mm. Once the two components are mixed, the silicon polymerizes in 2 minutes at room temperature. The silicon is highly fluid, but after application it feels very dry to the touch. The setting time for the silicone is approximately 20 seconds. Once the silicone has hardened, it is removed from the disc and cut to the dimensions of the central part of the miniature watch bracelet to form a flexible structured insert. More specifically, the structured insert does not have a fixed shape when at rest and is flexible enough to conform to the shape of the support on which it rests. Advantageously, the structured insert has a maximum thickness in the range of 0.2 mm to 2 mm, or between 0.2 mm and 1 mm. The insert is then positioned in the bracelet chain injection mold. The insert fits perfectly into a curved housing provided in the mold to receive it.
[0069] An elastomer material, preferably a fluoroelastomer (FKM), is then injected into a mold at a pressure of 80 bar and a temperature of 80°C. Vulcanization is then carried out at 180°C for 15 minutes, after which the mold is cooled, opened, and the blank obtained by the injection is removed. A structured insert is retained on the structured surface of the bracelet chain blank to serve as protection for subsequent manufacturing steps, particularly deburring or sandblasting.
[0070] Upon completion of the method, a bracelet chain for a miniature watch bracelet is formed, which includes a structured surface that faithfully replicates the master pattern on the upper surface of the silicon carbide disc. Note that such a pattern cannot be obtained using conventional mold machining. Figure 6 shows a perspective top view of the manufactured bracelet chain, whose structured surface perfectly replicates the pattern on a portion of the upper surface of the silicon carbide disc. Figure 7 shows an exploded view of the structured surface of the bracelet, making its pattern clearly identifiable.
[0071] According to a second embodiment of the present invention, the template element is crocodile leather, making it possible to obtain a bracelet chain made of elastomer material, as shown in Figure 8.
[0072] According to a third embodiment of the present invention, the template element is a metal plate having an engraved surface, as shown in Figure 9.
[0073] It should be noted that patterns with a depth of 500 μm or less cannot be obtained from molds machined using conventional techniques. In fact, applying the machining required to obtain very fine patterns on the surface of watch components to the curved surface inside a mold is far too complex. [Explanation of Symbols]
[0074] 10 Structured Inserts 20 Blank 50 template elements 51 Structured Surface
Claims
1. A method for manufacturing a resin-structured insert (10) for the manufacture of watch or jewelry components, A template element (50) is provided which includes a structured surface (51) having a pattern to be replicated on the surface of a watch component (E1). The structured surface (51) of the template element (50) is coated with a molding resin capable of replicating the negative pattern of the pattern on the structured surface (E2), and the molding resin is solidified to obtain a resin structured insert (10). The resin structured insert (10) is separated from the template element (50) (E3), where the resin structured insert (10) includes a surface containing the negative pattern. Includes steps, The pattern to be replicated from the template element (50) includes at least one cavity on the structured surface whose opening is narrower than the maximum width. The molding resin is selected to be a flexible material so that it can be separated from the template element without damaging the resin structured insert (10). A method for manufacturing a structured insert (10).
2. The molding resin is selected such that, after solidification, it achieves flexibility compatible with the extracted stress calculated using the following formula: [Math 1] A method for manufacturing a structured insert according to claim 1.
3. The pattern to be replicated from the template element (50) includes at least one raised relief measured perpendicular to the structured surface of the template element, ranging from 1 nm to 2 mm, or from 1 nm to 500 μm, or from 1 nm to 10 μm, or from 1 nm to 10 nm. A method for manufacturing a structured insert according to claim 1 or 2.
4. The structured surface of the template element (50) is animal hides, leather, or Artificial patterns, A method for manufacturing a structured insert according to any one of claims 1 to 3, including
5. The molding resin is 0.5 to 70,000 Pa.s -1 Between, or from 0.5 to 30,000 Pa.s -1 Between, or 0.5 to 1,000 Pa.s -1 Having a pre-solidification viscosity in the range between room temperature and ambient pressure, A method for manufacturing a structured insert according to any one of claims 1 to 4.
6. The molding resin includes polyurethane, latex, acrylic resin, fluoroelastomer such as FKM, epoxy resin, or two-component silicone. A method for manufacturing a structured insert according to any one of claims 1 to 5.
7. The molding resin is solidified in a flat position or solidified from a non-planar template element. A method for manufacturing a structured insert according to any one of claims 1 to 6.
8. The resin-structured insert (10) has a maximum thickness in the range of 0.2 mm to 2 mm, or 0.2 mm to 1 mm. A method for manufacturing a structured insert according to any one of claims 1 to 7.
9. The solidification of the molding resin includes a step of polymerization at room temperature for a period of time ranging from 1 to 30 minutes, or from 1 to 15 minutes. A method for manufacturing a structured insert according to any one of claims 1 to 8.
10. The hardness of the resin-structured insert (10) is in the range of 20 to 90 Shore A, or 20 to 40 Shore A, or 50 to 70 Shore A, or 80 to 90 Shore A. A method for manufacturing a structured insert according to any one of claims 1 to 9.
11. The method includes an additional step of depositing a release agent film onto the resin-structured insert (10). A method for manufacturing a structured insert according to any one of claims 1 to 10.
12. A method for manufacturing watch or jewelry components, comprising: a first phase of manufacturing a resin-structured insert (10) according to any one of claims 1 to 11; and a second phase of manufacturing a watch component, wherein the second phase is The resin structured insert (10) is positioned (E4) within the housing of the mold (1) for manufacturing watch parts. The manufacturing mold including the resin structured insert is filled with component material (E5), the filling of which includes filling the negative pattern of the resin structured insert, and the component material is then solidified to obtain a blank (20) of the watch component including a structured surface with the pattern of the template element. The blank (20) of the watch component is removed from the manufacturing mold (1) (E6). Steps including A method for manufacturing watch parts.
13. Step (E6), which involves removing the blank (20) of the watch component from the manufacturing mold (1), includes removing the blank (20) of the watch component and the resin structured insert (10) fixed to the blank (20) of the watch component, and includes Step (E8), which involves separating the watch component from the resin structured insert (10). The method for manufacturing a watch component according to claim 12.
14. The step (E5), which involves filling the manufacturing mold, includes casting or injection molding of the component material, enabling the formation of a watch component including an integrally molded structured surface. A method for manufacturing watch components according to claim 12 or 13.
15. The aforementioned clock component is flexible and has a non-planar resting shape. A method for manufacturing watch components according to any one of claims 12 to 14.
16. The aforementioned component material is an elastomer-based material. A method for manufacturing watch components according to any one of claims 12 to 15.