Glossy non-transfer composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose, (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected in particular from among C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, and (iv) at least one fatty-phase structuring agent.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE: Glossy, non-transfer composition

[0003] FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0004] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates in particular to shiny, non-transferable solid anhydrous compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular of the skin or lips.

[0005] STATE OF THE ART

[0006] Prior art is known of care and / or makeup products made of keratin materials with shine and hold, but which have poor resistance to transfer to pressure or friction, that is to say they tend to be deposited on a support (skin, clothing, etc.) with which they are brought into contact (these products are said to transfer to touch or friction). In the world of lipsticks in particular, the recurring demand from consumers is a very shiny lip product with very long hold or even no transfer. And in particular solid lip products in the form of stick or poured products.

[0007] However, to the Applicant's knowledge, there are currently no such solid products on the market in stick or cast form which offer very long-lasting hold with non-transfer properties and easy makeup removal.

[0008] Solid products (sticks) have the particularity of providing an intense color with a longer hold than glosses, but are not transfer-proof, and have less shine than a gloss; sticks called "long-lasting" but not "transfer-proof" generally have satiny rather than shiny films and "transfer-proof" sticks are matte and are less comfortable, even drying for the lips.

[0009] Some products claim to have both a shine and long-lasting effect, but they generally have a sticky feeling, possibly some tightness, transfer when pressed and / or rubbed and sometimes make-up removal difficult. Other suggestions exist to obtain a deposit that is both shiny and transfer-proof, but generally come in the form of products to be applied in 2 steps (so-called 'double-step' products): a 1 èrelong-lasting, non-transfer, but non-shiny colored layer in contact with the lips and a 2 ème ultra-glossy transparent layer applied over the first ('top coat') which provides shine and non-stickiness, and which can transfer without leaving any colored traces.

[0010] Likewise for other applications (blush, eyeshadow, etc.), there are no solid anhydrous products (in solid form or poured into a pot / pan), with a satin to glossy finish and no transfer.

[0011] We are therefore looking for new solid anhydrous compositions, particularly in stick form or poured into a pot / cup, for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials (skin, lips), in a single step, with very good shine properties and improved non-transfer properties. And we are advantageously looking for care and / or makeup compositions not containing silicone compounds, in particular silicone oils with a high shine index with very good shine properties and improved non-transfer properties.

[0012] The Applicant tested several film-forming polymers and selected the best candidates, taking into account their film drying speed and their compatibility with a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent. The Applicant thus identified a specific combination of ingredients consisting of at least one polyurethane-type polymer and one alkylcellulose-type polymer, making it possible to obtain an ultra-glossy film with very long wear and non-transfer properties, in a solid anhydrous composition comprising at least one fatty phase structuring agent, a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent and optionally, in addition, one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0013] The solid anhydrous composition of the invention has excellent shine properties and a non-transfer result that is unprecedented for this type of shine composition, even with high levels of non-volatile oils (for example, a total content greater than 5%, or even a content ranging from 20% to 65% of non-volatile oils relative to the total weight of the composition). The composition of the invention also allows easy makeup removal. PRESENTATION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] The present invention therefore relates to a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0015] (i) at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose,

[0016] (ii) at least one polyurethane film-forming polymer,

[0017] (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent chosen in particular from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from the group consisting of optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, and

[0018] (iv) at least one fatty phase structuring agent.

[0019] Another subject relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined according to the invention.

[0020] By "cosmetic composition" we mean any composition for cosmetic purposes, i.e. aesthetic purposes, which may come into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratin materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.

[0021] By "physiologically acceptable medium" we mean any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratin materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0022] By "keratin materials" according to the invention is meant the skin and / or its appendages, in particular the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, lips, and more particularly human skin and / or lips.

[0023] By "anhydrous" is meant in particular that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is completely free of water. For the purposes of the present invention, "solid" means a composition which does not flow under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), as opposed to so-called liquid compositions.

[0024] The hardness of the sticks can also be measured at 20°C by the so-called "butter wire cutting" method, which consists of cutting a stick of product, preferably cylindrical of revolution, transversely using a rigid metal wire with a diameter of 250 μm by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples is expressed in Gram force (Gf) and can be measured using a texturometer of the Texturometer TAXT Plus type. Preferably, the value obtained should be between 6060 and 120, in particular between 80 and 100.

[0025] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0026] A first object therefore concerns a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0027] (i) at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose,

[0028] (ii) at least one polyurethane film-forming polymer,

[0029] (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent chosen in particular from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from the group consisting of optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, and

[0030] (iv) at least one fatty phase structuring agent.

[0031] Alkylcellulose

[0032] The composition of the invention therefore comprises at least one alkylcellulose.

[0033] Among the alkylcelluloses, mention may be made of methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses, and their mixtures, preferably ethylcelluloses.

[0034] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises ethylcellulose as alkylcellulose.

[0035] The term 'ethylcellulose film-forming polymer', 'ethylcellulose polymer' or 'ethylcellulose' will be used interchangeably throughout the description. 'Film-forming polymer' means a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent (plasticizer), a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on the skin and / or lips.

[0036] By 'ethylcellulose polymer' according to the invention is meant a cellulose derivative in which some of the hydroxyl groups on the repeating glucose units are converted to ethyl ether groups.

[0037] Ethylcellulose is an ethyl ether of cellulose, comprising a chain consisting of β-anhydroglucose units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three hydroxyl groups which can be substituted by ethoxy groups. The number of ethyl ether groups can vary and is characterized by the percentage of ethoxylated substitution. The ethoxylated substitution (also called "ethyl ether content") is generally from 10 to 55%. According to a particular embodiment, the ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups, ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising an ethoxy group content ranging from 44% to 55%.

[0038] Reference may in particular be made to the ethylcellulose polymer described in Dow Chemical's application WO 2018 / 057381.

[0039] We can cite in particular the ethylcellulose polymers with the INCI name: ETHYLCELLULOSE, marketed under the following names:

[0040] ETHOCEL™ references manufactured by DUPONT and distributed by CHEMPOINT, including, for example, ETHOCEL™ Standard 4, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7 FP Premium, ETHOCEL™ Standard 10, ETHOCEL™ Standard 20, ETHOCEL™ Standard 45, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100 FP Premium, with an ethoxylated substitution content of 48.0 to 49.5 AQUALON™ ETHYLCELLULOSE references of K-type, N-type and T-type, preferably N-type such as N7, N100, available from Ashland, Inc; and ANTARON™ ECO references available from Ashland, Inc. This alkylcellulose polymer may be used as is, or pre-solubilized in a non-aqueous polar solvent such as those described below, to facilitate its dispersion in the composition. This non-aqueous polar solvent may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0041] According to a first method, the alkylcellulose polymer is used as is (in powder form).

[0042] For a formulation in an anhydrous composition according to the invention, the alkylcellulose polymer may advantageously be mixed with at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil (iv) chosen from liquid, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid, esters of fatty alcohol and C8-C18 fatty acid, esters of C8-C10 fatty acids and propylene glycol, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, and homogenized, before incorporation into the rest of the composition.

[0043] As liquid fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, C10-C26, octyldodecanol may preferably be mentioned.

[0044] As esters of fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid, we can cite in particular the ester of isodecanol and neopentanoic acid, otherwise known as isodecyl neopentanoate such as that marketed under the name DUB VCI by Stearinerie Dubois.

[0045] Examples of esters of fatty alcohols and C8-C18 fatty acids include Coco-Caprylate / Caprate, such as Cetiol® C5C from BASF.

[0046] As esters of C8-C10 fatty acids and propylene glycol, mention may be made in particular of the ester of saturated caprylic and capric fatty acids derived from coconut / palm kernel oil and propylene glycol, with the INCI name Caprylic / Capric TriglyceridesTriglyceride, such as the product marketed under the name MIGLYOL® 840.

[0047] Examples of triglycerides include triheptanoin, a triglyceride consisting of a glycerol residue esterified by three heptanoic acid residues, such as the product MIGLYOL® TC7.

[0048] According to another embodiment, the alkylcellulose polymer is pre-solubilized in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from the group consisting of C1-C5 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol, optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, before incorporation into the rest of the composition.

[0049] The content of alkylcellulose, in particular ethylcellulose, in the composition of the invention will generally range from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 10%, more preferably from 1.5 to 8%, or even from 1.5 to 5% by weight of dry matter (active) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Preferably, a content greater than or equal to 1.5% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, relative to the total weight of the composition will be used.

[0051] According to a particular embodiment, the alkylcellulose content, preferably ethylcellulose, will range from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises ethylcellulose in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 10%, more preferably from 1.5 to 8% by weight of dry matter (active) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] The composition also comprises at least one polyurethane film-forming polymer.

[0054] The polyurethane can be prepared according to polycondensation methods well known to those skilled in the art.

[0055] According to a particular embodiment, the polyurethane present in the composition according to the invention is capable of being obtained, or is obtained, by a multi-step process comprising: i) the formation of a prepolymer resulting from the reaction of isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) with a mixture of polytetrahydrofurans (also known as polybutylene glycols or polytetramethylene glycols), said polytetrahydrofurans advantageously comprising an average number of 14 moles of butylene glycol for one and an average number of 28 moles of butylene glycol for the other), then ii) the reaction of said prepolymer with 4,4'-methylenebis(cyclohexylamine) then reaction of the residual isocyanate groups with ethanol.According to a particular embodiment, the polyurethane polymer according to the invention is pre-solubilized in a non-aqueous polar solvent such as those described below, and in particular a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent chosen from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol.

[0056] According to a particular method, the product marketed under the name Baycusan® C 2000 with the INCI name: Polyurethane-64, by the company Covestro, will be used.

[0057] The molecular weight of the polyurethane polymer used according to the invention will generally range from 5000 to 100,000 Da, better still from 8000 to 60,000 Da.

[0058] The raw material containing the polyurethane polymer pre-solubilized in the non-aqueous polar solvent may be more or less concentrated; the person skilled in the art may thus adjust the quantity of raw material to be used with regard to its polymer concentration and / or its molecular weight.

[0059] It may also use several polyurethane polymers of different molecular weight and / or different concentrations of polyurethane polymers to optimize the desired result in terms of film adhesion and non-transfer.

[0060] Baycusan® C 2000 is already known in ethanol-based sunscreens and hair styling products, but has never been used until now, to the Applicant's knowledge, in skin and / or lip care and / or makeup compositions, probably due to its high ethanol content which may cause discomfort and / or tightness on the skin and lips.

[0061] The total content of film-forming polyurethane polymer(s) in the composition of the invention will generally range from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 8% to 30% by weight, or even from 10% to 25% by weight of active or dry material (polyurethane) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of film-forming polyurethane polymer(s) will be greater than or equal to 10% by weight of active or dry matter (of polyurethane) relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the total content of film-forming polyurethane polymer(s) will range from 10 to 25% by weight, in particular from 10 to 20% by weight of active or dry matter (of polyurethane) relative to the total weight of the composition. Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the solid anhydrous composition of the invention comprises:

[0063] (i) at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose, in a total content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0064] (ii) at least one polyurethane polymer, in a total content ranging from 5% to 35%, preferably 10% to 25% by weight of active or dry material (of polymer) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] More preferably, the solid anhydrous composition of the invention comprises:

[0066] (i) ethylcellulose, in a total content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0067] (ii) at least one polyurethane polymer, in a total content ranging from 5% to 35%, preferably 10% to 25% by weight of active or dry material (of polymer) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] The polyurethane polymer will advantageously be pre-solubilized in a non-aqueous polar solvent to facilitate its dispersion in the composition, preferably a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent for rapid drying of the film after application.

[0069] According to a particular embodiment, a polyurethane polymer pre-solubilized in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) such as those described below and preferably chosen from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol, will be used, in particular a polyurethane polymer with the INCI name: Polyurethane-64, such as that marketed under the name Baycusan® C 2000 by the company Covestro.

[0070] The ethylcellulose polymer may advantageously be pre-solubilized in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) such as those described below and preferably lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol and volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from the group consisting of optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] According to another embodiment, the ethylcellulose polymer may be pre-solubilized in a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil (iv) as described below and preferably chosen from liquid, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, C10-C26 fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol, or esters of fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid, esters of fatty alcohol and C8-C18 fatty acid, esters of C8-C10 fatty acids and propylene glycol, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] Non-aqueous volatile polar solvent

[0073] The composition will further comprise (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent. The non-aqueous polar volatile solvent(s) will advantageously serve to pre-solubilize at least one of the above-described film-forming polymers, or even both of the above-described polymers, in order to facilitate its (their) incorporation into the composition, and will also participate in the establishment and adhesion of the film to the keratin materials after application and evaporation.

[0074] According to a particular embodiment, at least the polyurethane polymer is pre-solubilized in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) as defined below.

[0075] By 'volatile solvent or oil', according to the invention, is meant a liquid having lost more than 20% by mass of its mass at 60 minutes, according to the protocol below. Volatile solvents participate in the formation of the film applied to the keratin materials during application, and after evaporation, allow the film to adhere to the keratin materials, with a sensation of bare skin, without material effect.

[0076] METHODOLOGY: 20 mg of the liquid (solvent) to be studied is weighed onto a 5cm x 5cm PMMA plate using a micropipette and a precision balance. This liquid is spread with a finger over the entire plate. Then, the plate is placed in a ventilated chamber thermostatically controlled at 33°C and 50% humidity. For each liquid, the test is carried out 3 times. The mass loss during drying is measured after 60 minutes. The mass lost is expressed according to the following calculation:

[0077] % mtïss't 1 lost 100

[0078] With m tx corresponding to the remaining mass at the measured time (tôOmin) and m t o corresponding to the mass initially applied.

[0079] According to the invention, the term "non-volatile solvent or liquid" means a solvent or liquid that does not meet the definition of volatile solvent described above. The term "polar solvent" means a solvent comprising at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; they may in particular be alcohol, ester, ether or carboxylic acid groups.

[0080] As a “non-aqueous polar volatile solvent” which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from the group consisting of optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the non-aqueous volatile polar solvent (iii) is chosen from lower C1-C5 mono-alcohols, preferably ethanol.

[0082] Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the polyurethane polymer is (pre)solubilized in a non-aqueous volatile polar solvent chosen from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol.

[0083] According to another embodiment, the non-aqueous volatile polar solvent (iii) is a volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from: optionally hydroxylated esters, preferably comprising between 5 and 12 carbon atoms in total, preferably monoesters, and in particular optionally hydroxylated esters of C2-C6 monoalcohol and C3-C6 monocarboxylic acid, comprising between 5 and 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as isopropyl hexanoate or ethyl lactate; ethers (in particular monoethers), having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms in total, for example such as dipentyl ether; dialkoxymethanes having from 3 to 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as dimethoxy methane, diethoxy methane, or dibutoxymethane.Such compounds are notably marketed respectively under the names methylal, ethylal and butylal by the company Lambiotte; carbonates having from 3 to 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as 15 dimethyl carbonate, diethylcarbonate, dipropylcarbonate, or dipentylcarbonate;.

[0084] - and their mixtures.

[0085] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the alkylcellulose polymer, in particular ethylcellulose, is (pre)solubilized in a non-aqueous volatile polar solvent (iii) chosen from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol, volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from the group consisting of optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] The total content of non-aqueous volatile polar solvent(s) in the composition of the invention will range in particular from 8% to 65% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 12% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] According to a particular embodiment, the content of non-aqueous polar volatile solvent, in particular C1-C5 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol in the composition of the invention will range in particular from 8% to 65% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 12% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] Structured fatty phase

[0089] The composition of the invention comprises a fatty phase.

[0090] The “fatty phase” of the composition comprises in particular oils and one or more gelling agents and / or fatty phase structuring agents chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fatty substances, waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0091] Oils

[0092] The term "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. The oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and their mixtures.

[0093] According to the invention, the term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms, in particular not being silicone-based or fluorinated.

[0094] According to the invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0095] Examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and polydimethylsiloxanes containing at least one C2-24 alkyl or alkoxy group, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain. Preferably, hydrocarbon oils will be used.

[0096] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more additional hydrocarbon oils, volatile or non-volatile, polar or non-polar, distinct from the volatile polar solvents described above, in particular one or more additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils (vi) chosen from saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, C10-C26, ester oils, oils of vegetable origin, esters of fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid, esters of fatty alcohols and C8-C18 fatty acids, esters of C8-C10 fatty acids and propylene glycol, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Examples of oils of plant origin include: sunflower oil, jojoba oil, castor oil and their mixtures.

[0098] The additional polar and non-volatile oils can provide comfort and hydration properties to the keratin materials to which the compositions of the invention are applied.

[0099] According to a particular embodiment, the ethylcellulose polymer according to the invention is pre-solubilized in a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil as described below.

[0100] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, notably chosen from the group consisting of:

[0101] - liquid fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, C10-C26;

[0102] - ester oils;

[0103] - and their mixtures.

[0104] Among the ester oils, we can notably cite:

[0105] - esters of fatty alcohols and C8-C18 fatty acids, in particular coco-caprylate caprate which is an ester of fatty alcohol of natural origin (e.g. coconut), caprylic acid and capric acid,

[0106] - fatty acid esters, in particular with 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0107] - synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R? represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched one, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1+R2 is >16, such as for example isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethyl-succinate hexyl;

[0108] - linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70;

[0109] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaisostearate, Polyglyceryl 10 Nonaisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0110] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

[0111] - esters of fatty alcohols or branched C24-C28 fatty acids;

[0112] - oligomeric polyesters of dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimeric fatty acid; we can cite in particular dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (e.g.: Lusplan™);

[0113] - esters of amino acid derivatives; we can cite in particular Di (phytosteryl octyldodecyl) N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (e.g. Eldew®); - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated;

[0114] - and their mixtures.

[0115] Those skilled in the art will be able to adjust the percentage of additional oil(s) according to the percentages of polymers used to obtain the desired performance.

[0116] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil chosen from liquid, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, C10-C26 fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid, esters of fatty alcohol and C8-C18 fatty acid, esters of C8-C10 fatty acids and propylene glycol, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C10-C26 fatty alcohol such as octyldodecanol.

[0117] Indeed, according to a particular embodiment, the alkylcellulose polymer, preferably ethylcellulose, is pre-solubilized in a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil (vi) chosen from liquid, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, C10-C26, preferably octyldodecanol, before incorporation into the rest of the composition.

[0118] Advantageously, the liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms.

[0119] Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0120] As particular examples of liquid fatty alcohols which can be used preferably in the composition of the invention, mention may in particular be made of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0121] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol.

[0122] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise at least octyldodecanol.

[0123] The total content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils in the composition of the invention will generally range from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 15% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 65% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohol, preferably octyldodecanol in a content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 15% to 70%, more preferably from 20% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition will comprise a total content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils ranging from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 15% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 65% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0126] Indeed, the Applicant has shown that the anhydrous solid composition comprising alkylcellulose, a polyurethane, a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent according to the invention made it possible to obtain unexpected non-transfer performances for compositions further comprising non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils in contents ranging from 20 to 65% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, whereas the non-transfer anhydrous solid compositions known until then do not contain non-volatile oils which are likely to impact non-transfer.

[0127] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises:

[0128] (i) at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose,

[0129] (ii) at least one polyurethane film-forming polymer, in particular a polyurethane polymer with INCI name polyurethane-64,

[0130] (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from C1-C5 lower mono-alcohols, preferably ethanol, and

[0131] (iv) at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from the group consisting of saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, C10-C26, ester oils, oils of vegetable origin, esters of fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid, esters of fatty alcohol and C8-C18 fatty acid, esters of C8-C10 fatty acids and propylene glycol, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.

[0132] According to a particular embodiment, the polyurethane film-forming polymer is pre-solubilized in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) chosen from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol, to facilitate its dispersion in the composition.

[0133] And preferably, the alkylcellulose polymer is mixed with (vi) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from the group consisting of saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, C10-C26, preferably octyldodecanol, before incorporation into the rest of the composition.

[0134] Fatty phase structuring agents

[0135] The fatty phase structuring agents used according to the invention are solid fatty substances or those comprising a solid fraction at 25°C.

[0136] These structuring agents are chosen in particular from fatty esters, fatty alcohols, waxes, organic lipophilic gelling agents, and their mixtures. They will generally have a melting point ranging from 55 to 85°C, in particular from 65 to 80°C.

[0137] The melting point generally determines the temperature at which a fat (fatty substance here) passes from the solid (or frozen) state to the liquid (or soft) state.

[0138] Examples of fatty esters include Behenyl Behenate, Cetyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Behenate / eicosadioate, Jojoba Esters, Stearyl Behenate, Myristyl Myristate, and mixtures thereof. These compounds generally have a melting point ranging from 65 to 75 °C.

[0139] The total fatty ester content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] Fatty alcohols suitable for the invention include, in particular, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. These fatty alcohols generally have a melting point ranging from 55°C to 75°C.

[0141] The total fatty alcohol content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] As waxes, vegetable waxes such as sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice wax, and their mixtures are preferably used. These waxes generally have melting points ranging from 60°C to 80°C, particularly from 65°C to 75°C.

[0143] The total wax content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] As organic lipophilic gelling agents which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may in particular be made of Octyldodecanol and Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide (AJK OD-2046).

[0145] The total content of organic lipophilic gelling agents will generally range from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 2 to 40% by weight, and in particular from 3 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0146] Advantageously, a person skilled in the art may combine several texturizing agents to improve the texture and / or sensory properties of the composition upon application. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise one or more fatty esters.

[0147] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise one or more fatty esters and one or more waxes, advantageously vegetable waxes.

[0148] The total content of fatty phase structuring agents will generally range from 5 to 50% by weight, in particular from 8 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] The person skilled in the art will know how to adapt the % according to the nature of the structuring agents and the hardness sought for the composition.

[0150] Other ingredients

[0151] The composition of the invention may further comprise at least one additional ingredient chosen from additional polymers other than the aforementioned ethylcellulose and polyurethane polymer, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, coloring materials, and mixtures thereof.

[0152] The term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support, from a solution, dispersion or suspension of this film-forming polymer, applied to said support.

[0153] These additional film-forming polymers can be natural or synthetic.

[0154] Preferably, fat-soluble polymers will be used.

[0155] Mention may in particular be made of: copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as copolymers of VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / styrene, polyolefins, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of alkenes comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes, copolymers of styrene and indene, such as the compound with the INCI name hydrogenated styrene / methyl styrene / indene copolymer (Regalite R1100 CG), sugar esters, in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), branched dextrin esters, such as dextrin isostearate, vegetable resins, such as resin of candelilla, silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate polymers, polyalkylsilsesquioxanes comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0156] The total content of additional film-forming polymers, when present, will generally range from 1 to 15% by weight, in particular from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0157] Coloring matters

[0158] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in particular for makeup compositions, the composition comprises at least one coloring material.

[0159] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “coloring material” means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in an appropriate cosmetic medium.

[0160] A coloring matter may be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring matters, materials with an optical effect such as mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the oily phase of the invention.

[0161] According to a particular method, the coloring material(s) are chosen in particular from pigments, pearlescent agents, fat-soluble coloring agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0162] “Pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0163] Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), optionally surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue. For compositions intended for lips, examples of titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet may be mentioned.

[0164] Examples of "organic pigments" include D & C Red No. 19; D & C Red No. 9; D & C Red No. 22; D & C Red No. 21; D & C Red No. 28; D & C Yellow No. 6;

[0165] D&C Orange No. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D&C Red No. 27; D&C Red No. 13; D&C Red No. 7;

[0166] D&C Red No. 6; D & C Yellow No. 5; D&C Red No. 36; D&C Red No. 33; D&C Orange No. 10;

[0167] D & C Yellow No. 6; D & C Red No. 30; D & C Red No. 3; D & C Blue 1; Carbon Black and Lakes.

[0168] In particular, the coloring matter(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0169] According to a particular method, the total coloring matter content will range from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0170] GALENIC

[0171] The composition of the invention is a solid anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, preferably the skin of the eyelids and / or cheeks, and / or lips.

[0172] According to a particular mode, the solid composition is in the form of a stick, a foundation stick, an eyeshadow, a blush or blush, a concealer, in particular for skin makeup (e.g. eyelids, cheeks), or a lip balm or a lip stick.

[0173] In particular, it will be a lip stick.

[0174] In another way, it will be an eye shadow or a blush.

[0175] The different embodiments of the compositions according to the invention are described above.

[0176] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a solid anhydrous composition for makeup of the skin or lips comprising: (i) at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose,

[0177] (ii) at least one polyurethane film-forming polymer, in particular a polyurethane polymer with INCI name polyurethane-64,

[0178] (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol,

[0179] (iv) at least one fatty phase structuring agent chosen from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, and mixtures thereof,

[0180] (v) at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from the group consisting of saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, C10-C26, ester oils, oils of vegetable origin, esters of fatty alcohols and neopentanoic acid, esters of fatty alcohols and C8-C18 fatty acids, esters of C8-C10 fatty acids and propylene glycol, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol, and

[0181] (vi) at least one coloring matter.

[0182] According to a particular embodiment, the polyurethane film-forming polymer is pre-solubilized in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) chosen from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol, to facilitate its dispersion in the composition.

[0183] And preferably, the alkylcellulose polymer is mixed with (iv) at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from the group consisting of saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, C10-C26 fatty alcohol esters of neopentanoic acid, C8-C18 fatty alcohol esters of fatty acids, C8-C10 fatty acid esters of propylene glycol, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol, before incorporation into the remainder of the composition.

[0184] METHOD FOR PREPARING THE COMPOSITION

[0185] Those skilled in the art will adapt the process for preparing the composition according to the film-forming polymers used, advantageously pre-solubilized in suitable solvents (iii) or (vi) such as those described above.

[0186] According to a particular embodiment, a polyurethane polymer pre-solubilized in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) chosen from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol, is used to facilitate its implementation in the composition. Such a polyurethane polymer is in particular polyurethane-64 from the company Covestro with the INCI name: polyurethane-64.

[0187] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is prepared according to the following process:

[0188] 1) the ethylcellulose polymer and the non-volatile polar oil (e.g. octyldodecanol) are mixed hot (e.g. 95°C) until homogenized (e.g. duration 1 hour and rotation speed of 700 rpm);

[0189] 2) the pigments, when present, are ground in a non-volatile polar oil (e.g. octyldodecanol or other esters among those listed previously) and the pigment paste is then added and homogenized until the mixture cools to room temperature;

[0190] 3) the polyurethane-64 polymer, pre-solubilized in ethanol, is then added at room temperature (to avoid evaporation of the alcohol, whose flash point is very low: 13°C) and everything is homogenized; and

[0191] 4) the final composition is packaged in a sealed container to prevent the alcohol from evaporating.

[0192] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention is prepared according to the following process:

[0193] 1) the ethylcellulose polymer is pre-solubilized in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (iii) chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from the group consisting of optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, until homogenization;

[0194] 2) the pigments, when present, are ground in a non-volatile polar oil (e.g. octyldodecanol or other esters among those listed previously) and the pigment paste is then added and homogenized until the mixture cools to room temperature;

[0195] 3) the polyurethane-64 polymer, pre-solubilized in ethanol, is then added at room temperature (to avoid evaporation of the alcohol, whose flash point is very low: 13°C) and everything is homogenized; and

[0196] 4) the final composition is packaged in a sealed container to prevent the alcohol from evaporating.

[0197] The person skilled in the art will adapt the duration, temperature and rotation speed according to the oil (iii) chosen. COSMETIC PROCESS

[0198] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

[0199] Applied to the skin (e.g. eyelids and / or cheeks) or lips, the compositions of the invention form a shiny, non-transfer film.

[0200] The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. The % are expressed by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

[0201] EXAMPLES

[0202] Example 1: Synergistic effect between ethylcellulose and polyurethane polymer

[0203] Several lipstick compositions were prepared and evaluated according to the criteria of shine, non-transfer, film adhesion / stay and makeup removal.

[0204] [Table 1]

[0205] The compositions are prepared according to the following process: In a beaker in a water bath (95°C), the ethylcellulose polymer and octyldodecanol are mixed for 1 hour at a rotation speed of 700 rpm. The preparation is then de-bubbled by reducing the stirring.

[0206] The pigments are ground in octyldodecanol and the pigment paste is then added and homogenized until the mixture cools to room temperature.

[0207] The polyurethane-64 polymer is added at room temperature (to avoid evaporation of the alcohol, which has a very low flash point of 13°C) and homogenized.

[0208] The final composition is packaged in a sealed container to prevent the alcohol from evaporating.

[0209] The properties of the compositions according to the invention and respectively comparative compositions (without ethylcellulose polymer or without polyurethane-64) are evaluated on a panel of experts as follows: the composition is applied to the hand and to the lips and different properties are evaluated:

[0210] Gloss: The gloss of the film is assessed once dry; the ratings given are as follows:

[0211] +++: very bright;

[0212] ++: shiny;

[0213] +: not very shiny;

[0214] Non-transfer: The non-transfer properties are assessed by touching the film with a finger or kissing the hand (pressure non-transfer assessment), or by rubbing the film with a finger or rubbing the lips on the hand (friction non-transfer assessment); the ratings given are as follows: +++: very good pressure and friction non-transfer;

[0215] ++: good non-transfer to pressure and friction;

[0216] +: no transfer under pressure but less resistance to friction;

[0217] - : transfer to pressure and friction;

[0218] - Film adhesion / stay: Film adhesion / stay is assessed by wearing the product on the lips for at least 4 hours; the ratings given are as follows:

[0219] +++: very good film adhesion / hold;

[0220] ++: good film adhesion / hold;

[0221] - : no film adhesion / hold; the film is peelable or comes off. Makeup removal: makeup removal is assessed by removing makeup with cotton wool while wiping the lips (for the test with ethylcellulose alone, which is very difficult to remove, a two-phase makeup remover is necessary to facilitate removal). The ratings are as follows:

[0222] +++: very easy to remove makeup -: does not remove makeup.

[0223] The results are presented in the following table: [Table 2]

[0224] These results show that ethylcellulose alone provides a glossy, non-transfer film but that it is very difficult to remove makeup; polyurethane alone provides a glossy film and total non-transfer properties (with a volatile solvent) but poor film adhesion / hold, with a film that peels off easily. On the other hand, the combination of ethylcellulose and polyurethane in the compositions of the invention makes it possible to have improved film adhesion properties, while retaining good pressure-relief properties and good gloss properties, with easy makeup removal. And this result is particularly surprising with such high non-volatile oil contents (here, octyldodecanol at contents ranging from 68 to 70% in the examples illustrated above).

[0225] The Applicant confirmed the effect of the combination according to the invention in solid compositions, compared to compositions comprising only one of the two ingredients of the combination:

[0226] [Table 3] TJ

[0227] Formula 'invention 1' is prepared as follows:

[0228] Ethylcellulose gel (ethylcellulose mixed with a portion of octyldodecanol) is prepared in advance;

[0229] The ethylcellulose gel, octyldodecanol, structuring agents and pigments are homogenized at 85°C for 20 minutes;

[0230] The polyurethane is then incorporated and left to homogenize for a few minutes;

[0231] The formula is then poured at 85°C.

[0232] The 'comparative 1' formula (without ethylcellulose) is prepared as follows:

[0233] The structuring agents (increased content to compensate for the absence of ethylcellulose) and part of the octydodecanol are heated with moderate stirring until the solid raw materials have completely melted;

[0234] Red 7 and the remaining octyldodecanol are added and left to homogenize for 5 minutes;

[0235] The temperature is lowered to 85°C to integrate the polyurethane and the formula is left to homogenize for a few minutes;

[0236] The formula is poured at 85°C.

[0237] The formula 'invention 2' is prepared according to the following protocol:

[0238] The ethylcellulose gel is prepared in advance: the ethylcellulose is sprinkled into cold octyldodecanol; under emulsifier 900-1000 rpm, then heated with stirring for 1 hour in a water bath at 95°C, then left for 20 minutes without stirring to de-bubble;

[0239] The ethylcellulose gel, a part of the octyldodecanol, the structuring agents and the pigments are mixed in a water bath at 98°C (melting point of polyethylene wax: 93°C) and homogenized under Rayneri 600rpm for 35min;

[0240] The temperature is lowered to 86°C to integrate the polyurethane and homogenized for 2 min at 800rpm;

[0241] The formula is poured into a back fill and left for 10 minutes at 5°C.

[0242] The 'comparative 2' formula is produced according to the protocol described for invention 2, with the integration of the film-forming polymer Crodabond CSA (replacing the polyurethane) at the same time as the structuring agents and pigments.

[0243] The gloss and non-transfer properties under pressure of these 4 formulas are evaluated on a panel of experts in the laboratory, according to the protocol and ratings described above. The results are presented in Table 3 above and confirm that the combination of ethylcellulose and a polyurethane according to the invention in a solid anhydrous composition makes it possible to obtain the desired gloss and non-transfer properties, compared to compositions which contain only one of the two ingredients of said combination.

[0244] Example 2: Effect of combining polyurethane with a non-aqueous volatile polar solvent compared to an aqueous polyurethane dispersion

[0245] [Table 4]

[0246] The formulations are prepared according to the following protocol, in a water bath at 95°C:

[0247] - Ethylcellulose is mixed with octyldodecanol, under emulsifier, for 1 hour at 800 rpm; then the agitation is reduced to de-bubble; - The pigments and structuring agents are added and homogenized for 35 minutes at 500 rpm;

[0248] - The formulation is then brought to 85°C and the polyurethane polymer is added and left to homogenize for 2 minutes at 700rpm;

[0249] - The formulation is packaged in airtight containers to prevent the alcohol from evaporating and left to cool for 10 minutes at -20°C.

[0250] Gloss and transfer resistance properties are assessed by a panel of experts in the laboratory.

[0251] Gloss: The film's gloss is rated once dry; an OK rating means the film is very glossy to satin. A KO rating means the film is matte.

[0252] Non-transfer: Non-transfer properties are assessed by touching the film with a finger or kissing the hand (pressure non-transfer assessment), or by rubbing the film with a finger or rubbing the lips on the hand (friction non-transfer assessment); the ratings given are as follows:

[0253] OK: no transfer to pressure and friction;

[0254] KO: transfer to pressure and friction.

[0255] MEDIUM: Improved non-transfer but not total non-transfer

[0256] These results show that the combination of a polyurethane with a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent (ethanol in the examples) in a solid anhydrous composition (<5% water content) makes it possible to obtain the desired gloss and non-transfer properties.

[0257] Example 3: Selection of polyurethane polymer compared to other holding agents

[0258] The Applicant tested several compounds known to promote hold, in a solid anhydrous composition comprising ethylcellulose.

[0259] [Table 5]

[0260] Gloss and transfer resistance properties are evaluated by a panel of experts in the laboratory. Gloss: The film's gloss is evaluated once dry; an OK rating means very glossy.

[0261] Non-transfer: Non-transfer properties are assessed by touching the film with a finger or kissing the hand (pressure non-transfer assessment), or by rubbing the film with a finger or rubbing the lips on the hand (friction non-transfer assessment); the ratings given are as follows:

[0262] OK: no transfer to pressure and friction;

[0263] KO: transfer under pressure and friction. These results show that polyurethane polymer, compared to other holding agents, is the only one that achieves non-transfer results. Other holding agents, taken alone, provide good gloss but not the desired non-transfer performance.

[0264] Example 4: Selection of polyurethane polymer compared to other film-forming polymers

[0265] The Applicant tested several film-forming polymers held in a solid anhydrous composition comprising ethylcellulose.

[0266] [Table 6]

[0267] The formulations are prepared according to the following protocol, in a water bath at 95°C:

[0268] - Ethylcellulose is mixed with octyldodecanol, under emulsifier, for 1 hour at 800 rpm; then the agitation is reduced to de-bubble;

[0269] - The pigments, the additional film-forming agent and the structuring agents are added and homogenized for 35 minutes at 500 rpm; - The formulation is then brought to 85 °C and the Ethanol is added and homogenized for 2 minutes at 700 rpm;

[0270] - The formulation is packaged in airtight containers to prevent the alcohol from evaporating and left to cool for 10 minutes at -20°C.

[0271] Gloss and transfer resistance properties are evaluated on a panel of experts in the laboratory, according to the protocol and ratings described in example 2 above.

[0272] The results show that only polyurethane in association with ethanol allows obtaining the desired gloss and non-transfer properties, compared to other film-forming polymers which do not allow obtaining the non-transfer property, even in the presence of ethanol.

[0273] Example 5: Formulations with various structuring agents

[0274] [Table 7]

[0275] The formulations are prepared according to the following protocol, in a water bath at 95°C:

[0276] Ethylcellulose is mixed with octyldodecanol, under emulsifier, for 1 hour at 800 rpm; then the agitation is reduced to de-bubble;

[0277] The pigments and structuring agents are added and homogenized for 35 minutes at 500 rpm; The formulation is then brought to 85°C and the polyurethane polymer is added and homogenized for 2 minutes at 700 rpm;

[0278] The formulation is packaged in airtight containers to prevent the alcohol from evaporating and left to cool for 10 minutes at -20°C.

[0279] Applied to the lips, the above-described compositions allow you to obtain a very shiny, non-transfer film.

[0280] Example 6: Other makeup compositions

[0281] The blush and eyeshadow compositions below are prepared according to the following protocol, in a water bath at 95°C:

[0282] Ethylcellulose is mixed with octyldodecanol, under emulsifier, 1 hour at 800 rpm; then the agitation is reduced to de-bubble; The pigments are dispersed in a fraction of the octyldodecanol, The pearlescent agents, the structuring agents the remaining quantity of octyldodecanol are added to the pigment dispersion and homogenized for 35 minutes at 500 rpm;

[0283] The preparation thus obtained is then heated to 85°C and the polyurethane polymer is added and left to homogenize for 2 minutes at 700rpm;

[0284] The composition is poured into airtight containers (e.g. small glass jars) to prevent the alcohol from evaporating and left to cool for 10 minutes at -20°C.

[0285] Blush

[0286] [Table 8]

[0287] Applied to the upper cheeks, this blush creates a shiny, transfer-proof finish. Eyeshadow

[0288] [Table 9]

[0289] Applied to the eyelids, this eyeshadow creates a shiny, non-transfer film.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose, (ii) at least one polyurethane film-forming polymer, (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent chosen in particular from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from the group consisting of optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethanes, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, and (iv) at least one fatty phase structuring agent.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises (v) one or more coloring materials chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, liposoluble coloring agents, and mixtures thereof.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the structuring agents are solid fatty substances chosen from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, organic lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

4. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it further comprises (vi) one or more additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils chosen from saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, C10-C26, esters of fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid, esters of fatty alcohol and C8-C18 fatty acid, esters of C8-C10 fatty acids and propylene glycol, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, ester oils, oils of plant origin, and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the total content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils in the composition of the invention will generally range from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 15% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 65% relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the alkylcellulose(s), preferably ethylcellulose, is (are) present in the composition in a total content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 10% by weight, more preferably 1.5% to 8% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the film-forming polyurethane polymer(s) is (are) present in the composition in a total dry matter content ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 8% to 30% by weight, or even from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the non-aqueous polar volatile solvent(s) is (are) chosen from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the total content of non-aqueous polar volatile solvent(s) in the composition ranges from 8% to 65% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 12% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it comprises: (i) at least ethylcellulose, (ii) at least one polyurethane film-forming polymer, in particular with an INCI name comprising polyurethane-64, (iii) at least one non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol, (iv) at least one structuring agent chosen from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, and mixtures thereof, and (v) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from the group consisting of saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, C10-C26, preferably ocyldodecanol.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it further comprises one or more additional ingredient(s) chosen from additional polymers other than ethylcellulose and polyurethane polymer, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, coloring agents, and their mixtures.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and in particular a foundation stick, an eyeshadow, a blush or blush, a concealer, a lip balm or a lipstick stick.

13. Cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12.

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