Cosmetic composition with a c-glycoside, niacinamide and panthenol
A cosmetic composition combining a C-glycoside, niacinamide, and panthenol addresses the inadequacies of current anti-aging products by providing enhanced anti-aging benefits, including improved skin texture and reduced signs of aging, through a synergistic effect.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/CN2023/132684
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-11-20
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-30
AI Technical Summary
Current anti-aging cosmetic products are insufficient in providing comprehensive anti-aging benefits such as a more even complexion, reduced pores, improved skin texture, and reduced wrinkles and fine lines.
A cosmetic composition combining a C-glycoside, niacinamide, and panthenol in specific amounts, which synergistically enhances anti-aging benefits by improving skin texture and reducing signs of aging.
The composition effectively provides anti-aging benefits by enhancing skin texture, reducing wrinkles and fine lines, and improving the overall appearance of the skin, demonstrating a potentiating effect of the C-glycoside when combined with niacinamide and panthenol.
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Figure PCTCN2023132684-FTAPPB-I100001 
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Figure PCTCN2023132684-FTAPPB-I100003
Abstract
Description
Cosmetic composition with a C-glycoside, niacinamide and panthenol
[0001] The present invention concerns a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one C-glycoside of formula (I) , niacinamide or one of its derivatives, and panthenol, in given amounts.
[0002] The skin is a tissue in which cells are contiguous and firmly attached to each other. Skin tissue forms an external coating comprising sebaceous or sudoriferous glands, and hair follicles. The skin, and particularly the scalp, are continuously renewed epithelia. Renewal, or desquamation, is a coordinated and finely regulated process leading to the elimination of surface cells, insensibly and invisibly.
[0003] Human skin is composed of two compartments, namely a surface compartment (the epidermis) and a deep compartment (the dermis) .
[0004] The epidermis is conventionally divided into a base layer of keratinocytes making up the germinative layer of the epidermis, a so-called spiny layer composed of several layers of polyhedral cells located on the germinative layers, one to three layers called granular layers composed of flat cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, keratohyalin grains and finally a set of upper layers called horny layers (stratum corneum) , composed of keratinocytes called corneocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation.
[0005] One of the current trends among consumers is that of wishing to appear young for as long as possible. They hence seek to tone down the signs of skin aging, for example wrinkles and fine lines, thinning of the epidermis, strengthening skin barrier function and / or the appearance of saggy and wrinkled skin, and / or seek to delay the skin aging phenomenon. Numerous products intending to keep the skin bright and wrinkle-free, the signs of young skin, for as long as possible, have therefore been developed. These products comprise one or more biological active agents having demonstrated biological efficacy in respect of skin aging.
[0006] However, the performances of these products remain to be improved.
[0007] Therefore, there is a need for products providing one or more anti-aging benefits. In particular, there is a need for products providing a more even complexion, and / or reduced / tightened pores, and / or a detiring effect, and / or reduced wrinkles and / or reduced fine lines and / or a bouncier appearance of the skin and / or a suppler skin.
[0008] The inventors have now discovered that the association of a C-glycoside of formula (I) with niacinamide and panthenol, in given amounts, satisfactorily provides one or more anti-aging benefits and solve the above problem.
[0009] The invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition: from 1%to 25%by weight of active substance of at least one C-glycoside of formula (I) , from 1%to 10%by weight of active substance of a compound chosen from niacinamide and derivatives thereof, and from 0.5%to 10%by weight of active substance of panthenol.
[0010] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method for the keratin materials, especially skin, comprising the application on the keratin materials, especially skin, of a composition according to the invention.
[0011] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition of the invention for reducing the signs of skin ageing.
[0012] The association of a C-glycoside of formula (I) with niacinamide and panthenol, in given amounts, is also called 《the complex of the invention 》.
[0013] As shown in the examples, said association is shown to have a greater or better effect, notably a potentiating effect of the C-glycoside. Indeed, the niacinamide or one of its derivatives, and panthenol, increase the action of the C-gylcoside, notably potentiate the action of the C-glycoside.
[0014] According to the invention, "potentiating effect" is intended to describe a response or an effect resulting from an implementation of a combination of elements greater than the sum of the responses or effects resulting from the separate implementation of these elements.
[0015] According to the invention, "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with the keratin materials such as skin, mucosa, nails and / or hair.
[0016] C-glycoside
[0017] The C-glycoside according to the invention has the following general formula (I) :
[0018] wherein:
[0019] - R represents:
[0020] - a saturated C1 to C20, in particular C1 to C10, or unsaturated C2 to C20, in particular C3 to C10, linear alkyl radical, or a saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C20, in particular C4 to C10, branched or cyclic alkyl radical;
[0021] - a linear saturated C1 to C20, in particular C2 to C10, or unsaturated C2 to C20, in particular C2 to C10, or branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C20, in particular C4 to C10, hydrofluoro-or perfluoro-alkyl radical;
[0022] - a phenyl or benzyl radical, the hydrocarbon chain forming said radicals optionally being, where applicable, interrupted by 1, 2, 3 or more heteroatoms chosen from:
[0023] - an oxygen,
[0024] - a sulfur,
[0025] - a nitrogen, and
[0026] - a silicon,
[0027] and optionally being substituted by at least one radical chosen from:
[0028] - -OR4,
[0029] - -SR4,
[0030] - -NR4R5,
[0031] - -COOR4,
[0032] - -CONHR4,
[0033] - -CN,
[0034] - a halogen atom,
[0035] - a C1 to C6 hydrofluoro-or perfluoro-alkyl radical, and / or
[0036] - a C3 to C8 cycloalkyl radical, and / or
[0037] - at least one C5 to C18 cycloalkyl, aryl, heterocyclic radical, optionally substituted,
[0038] where R4 and R5 can represent, independently from one another, a hydrogen atom, or a saturated C1 to C30, particularly C3 to C12, or unsaturated C2 to C30, particularly C3 to C12 linear, or saturated or unsaturated C3 to C30, particularly C4 to C12, branched or cyclic alkyl, perfluoroalkyl or hydrofluoroalkyl radical; or a C6 to C10 aryl radical,
[0039] - X represents a radical chosen from -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH2) -, and preferably a –CH (OH) -group;
[0040] - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide including up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and of L and / or D series, said mono-or poly-saccharide being optionally substituted by a mandatorily free hydroxyl group, and optionally one or more optionally protected amine function (s) , and
[0041] - the bond S-CH2-X represents a C-anomeric type bond, which can be α or β, and the physiologically acceptable salts thereof, the solvates thereof such as hydrates and the isomers thereof.
[0042] Within the scope of the present invention, "halogen" means chlorine, fluorine, bromine or iodine.
[0043] The term "aryl" denotes an aromatic ring system, such as phenyl, optionally substituted by one or more C1-C4 alkyl radicals.
[0044] The term "C3 to C8 cycloalkyl" denotes an aliphatic ring system having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, including for example cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl.
[0045] Among the alkyl groups suitable of the implementation of the invention, mention can particularly be made of the methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, and allyl groups.
[0046] A C-glycoside can comply with formula (I) for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide containing up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and L and / or D series, said mono-or polysaccharide having at least one mandatorily free hydroxyl function and / or optionally one or more mandatorily protected amine functions, X and R also retaining all of the definitions given above.
[0047] Advantageously, a monosaccharide according to the invention can be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose, L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose.
[0048] More specifically, a polysaccharide according to the invention containing up to 6 sugar units can be chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide associating a uronic acid chosen from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine chosen from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide containing at least one xylose which can be advantageously chosen from xylobiose, methyl-β-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and particularly xylobiose which is composed of two xylose molecules bound by a 1-4 bond.
[0049] More specifically, S can represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose, D-maltose and particularly D-xylose.
[0050] According to an embodiment of the invention, a C-glycoside complying with formula (I) can be used, for which R represents a saturated C1 to C20, in particular C1 to C10, or unsaturated C2 to C20, in particular C3 to C10, linear alkyl radical, or a saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C20 branched or cyclic alkyl radical; in particular C4 to C10, and optionally substituted as described above, S and X also retaining all of the definitions given above.
[0051] In particular, R can denote a C1-C4, particularly C1-C2, linear radical, optionally substituted by –OH, -COOH or –COOR” 2, R” 2 being a saturated C1-C4 linear alkyl radical, particularly methyl. In particular, R can denote a non-substituted C1-C4, particularly C1-C2, linear alkyl radical, in particular methyl.
[0052] Among the C-glycosides of formula (I) , it is particularly possible to use those for which:
[0053] - R represents a saturated C1 to C20, in particular C1 to C10, or unsaturated C2 to C20, in particular C3 to C10, linear alkyl radical, or a saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C20, in particular C4 to C10, branched or cyclic alkyl radical and optionally substituted as described above;
[0054] - S represents a monosaccharide as described above, preferably D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
[0055] - X represents a radical chosen from -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH2) -, and preferably a –CH (OH) -group.
[0056] More specifically, a C-glycoside of formula (I) is used, for which:
[0057] - R denotes a C1-C4, particularly C1-C3, linear radical, optionally substituted by –OH, -COOH or –COOR” 2, R” 2 being a saturated C1-C4 linear alkyl radical, particularly methyl;
[0058] - S represents a monosaccharide as described above, preferably D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
[0059] - X represents a radical chosen from -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH2) -, and preferably a –CH (OH) -group.
[0060] According to an embodiment, a C-glycoside of formula (I) can be used, for which:
[0061] - R denotes a non-substituted C1-C4, particularly C1-C2, linear alkyl radical, in particular methyl;
[0062] - S represents a monosaccharide as described above, preferably D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
[0063] - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH2) -, and preferably a -CH (OH) -group.
[0064] The acceptable salts for the non-therapeutic use of the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. By way of example, mention can be made of the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acids, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid, boric acid. Mention can also be made of organic acid salts, which can include one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid group (s) . They can consist of linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or indeed aromatic acids. These acids can further include one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention can particularly be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.
[0065] When the compound of formula (I) includes an acid group, the acid group (s) can be neutralized with a mineral base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca (OH) 2, NH4OH, Mg (OH) 2 or Zn (OH) 2; or by an organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine can include one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and can therefore include for example one or more alcohol functions; mention can particularly be made of amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine, dimethylamino-2-propanol, 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl) -1, 3-propanediol. Mention can further be made of lysine or 3- (dimethylamino) propylamine.
[0066] The acceptable solvates for the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional solvates such as those formed during the final preparation step of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. By way of example, mention can be made of solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol.
[0067] Among the C-glycosides of formula (I) , used according to the invention, the following are very particularly considered:
[0068] 1. C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;
[0069] 2. C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;
[0070] 3. 1- [2- (3-hydroxy-propylamino) -propyl] -C-β -D-xylopyranose;
[0071] 4. 1- [2- (3-hydroxy-propylamino) -propyl] -C-α-D-xylopyranose;
[0072] 5. C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;
[0073] 6. C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;
[0074] 7. C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-amino-propane;
[0075] 8. C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-amino-propane;
[0076] 9. C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-phenylamino-propane;
[0077] 10. C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-phenylamino-propane;
[0078] 11. 3-methyl-4- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester;
[0079] 12. 3-methyl-4- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester;
[0080] 13. 6- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;
[0081] 14. 6- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;
[0082] 15. 6- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;
[0083] 16. 6- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;
[0084] 17. 6- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;
[0085] 18. 6- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;
[0086] 19. 6- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;
[0087] 20. 6- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;
[0088] 21. 1- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -hexane-2, 6-diol;
[0089] 22. 1- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -hexane-2, 6-diol;
[0090] 23. 5- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -4-keto-pentanoic acid;
[0091] 24. 5- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -4-keto-pentanoic acid;
[0092] 25. 5- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;
[0093] 26. 5- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;
[0094] 27. 5- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid;
[0095] 28. 5- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid;
[0096] 29. 5- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -4-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;
[0097] 30. 5- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -4-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;
[0098] 31. 1- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -pentane-2, 5-diol;
[0099] 32. 1- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -pentane-2, 5-diol;
[0100] 33. 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -propane-2-one;
[0101] 34. 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -propane-2-one;
[0102] 35. 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -propane-2-one;
[0103] 36. 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -propane-2-one;
[0104] 37. 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane;
[0105] 38. 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane;
[0106] 39. 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane;
[0107] 40. 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane;
[0108] 41. 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -2-amino-propane;
[0109] 42. 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -2-amino-propane;
[0110] 43. 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -2-amino-propane;
[0111] 44. 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -2-amino-propane;
[0112] 45. 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -2-phenylamino-propane;
[0113] 46. 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -2-phenylamino-propane;
[0114] 47. 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -2-phenylamino-propane;
[0115] 48. 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -2-phenylamino-propane;
[0116] 49. 3-methyl-4- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester;
[0117] 50. 3-methyl-4- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester;
[0118] 51. 3-methyl-4- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester;
[0119] 52. 3-methyl-4- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester;
[0120] 53. 6- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;
[0121] 54. 6- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;
[0122] 55. 6- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;
[0123] 56. 6- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;
[0124] 57. 6- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;
[0125] 58. 6- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;
[0126] 59. 6- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;
[0127] 60. 6- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;
[0128] 61. 6- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;
[0129] 62. 6- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;
[0130] 63. 6- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;
[0131] 64. 6- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;
[0132] 65. 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2, 6-diol;
[0133] 66. 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2, 6-diol;
[0134] 67. 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2, 6-diol;
[0135] 68. 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2, 6-diol;
[0136] 69. 5- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -4-keto-pentanoic acid;
[0137] 70. 5- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -4-keto-pentanoic acid;
[0138] 71. 5- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2, 6-diol) -4-keto-pentanoic acid;
[0139] 72. 5- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2, 6-diol) -4-keto-pentanoic acid;
[0140] 73. 5- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;
[0141] 74. 5- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;
[0142] 75. 5- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;
[0143] 76. 5- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;
[0144] 77. 5- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid;
[0145] 78. 5- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid;
[0146] 79. 5- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid;
[0147] 80. 5- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid;
[0148] 81. 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -pentane-2, 5-diol;
[0149] 82. 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -pentane-2, 5-diol;
[0150] 83. 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -pentane-2, 5-diol;
[0151] 84. 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -pentane-2, 5-diol;
[0152] 85. 1- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxy-propane;
[0153] 86. 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxy-propane;
[0154] 87. 1- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-amino-propane;
[0155] 88. 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-amino-propane;
[0156] 89. 1- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-phenylamino-propane;
[0157] 90. 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-phenylamino-propane;
[0158] 91. 3-methyl-4- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -butyric acid ethyl ester;
[0159] 92. 3-methyl-4- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -butyric acid ethyl ester;
[0160] 93. 6- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;
[0161] 94. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;
[0162] 95. 6- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;
[0163] 96. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;
[0164] 97. 6- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;
[0165] 98. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;
[0166] 99. 6- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;
[0167] 100. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;
[0168] 101. 1- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -hexane-2, 6-diol;
[0169] 102. 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -hexane-2, 6-diol;
[0170] 103. 6- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid;
[0171] 104. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid;
[0172] 105. 6- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;
[0173] 106. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;
[0174] 107. 6- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-amino-pentanoic acid;
[0175] 108. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;
[0176] 109. 6- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;
[0177] 110. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;
[0178] 111. 1- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -pentane-2, 5-diol;
[0179] 112. 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -pentane-2, 5-diol;
[0180] 113. 1- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxy-propane;
[0181] 114. 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxy-propane;
[0182] 115. 1- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-amino-propane;
[0183] 116. 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-amino-propane;
[0184] 117. 1- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-phenylamino-propane;
[0185] 118. 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-phenylamino-propane;
[0186] 119. 3-methyl-4- (β-D-galactopyranosyl) -butyric acid ethyl ester;
[0187] 120. 3-methyl-4- (α-D-galactopyranosyl) -butyric acid ethyl ester;
[0188] 121. 6- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;
[0189] 122. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;
[0190] 123. 6- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;
[0191] 124. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;
[0192] 125. 6- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;
[0193] 126. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;
[0194] 127. 6- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) 5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;
[0195] 128. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) 5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;
[0196] 129. 1- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -hexane-2, 6-diol;
[0197] 130. 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -hexane-2, 6-diol;
[0198] 131. 6- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid;
[0199] 132. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid;
[0200] 133. 6- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;
[0201] 134. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;
[0202] 135. 6- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-amino-pentanoic acid;
[0203] 136. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-amino-pentanoic acid;
[0204] 137. 6- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;
[0205] 138. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;
[0206] 139. 1- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -pentane-2, 6-diol;
[0207] 140. 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -pentane-2, 6-diol;
[0208] 141. 1- (C-β-D-fucofuranosyl) -propane-2-one;
[0209] 142. 1- (C-α-D-fucofuranosyl) -propane-2-one;
[0210] 143. 1- (C-β-L-fucofuranosyl) -propane-2-one;
[0211] 144. 1- (C-α-L-fucofuranosyl) -propane-2-one;
[0212] 145. 3'- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -propane-2'-on;
[0213] 146. 3'- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -propane-2'-one;
[0214] 147. 1- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxyl-propane;
[0215] 148. 1- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-amino-propane;
[0216] 149. 1- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-phenylamino-propane;
[0217] 150. 1- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-phenylamino-propane;
[0218] 151. 3-methyl-4- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -butyric acid ethyl ester
[0219] 152. 3-methyl-4- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -butyric acid ethyl ester
[0220] 153. 6- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;
[0221] 154. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;
[0222] 155. 6- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;
[0223] 156. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;
[0224] 157. 6- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;
[0225] 158. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;
[0226] 159. 6- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;
[0227] 160. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;
[0228] 161. 1- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -hexane-2, 6-diol;
[0229] 162. 1- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -hexane-2, 6-diol;
[0230] 163. 6- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid;
[0231] 164. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid;
[0232] 165. 6- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;
[0233] 166. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;
[0234] 167. 6- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-amino-pentanoic acid;
[0235] 168. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-amino-pentanoic acid;
[0236] 169. 6- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;
[0237] 170. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;
[0238] 171. 1- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -pentane-2, 5-diol;
[0239] 172. 1- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -pentane-2, 5-diol.
[0240] By way of illustration and not limitation of the C-glycosides more specifically suitable for the invention, mention can particularly be made of the following compounds:
[0241] - C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,
[0242] - C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,
[0243] - C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0244] - C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0245] - 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -propane-2-one,
[0246] - 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -propane-2-one,
[0247] - 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -propane-2-one,
[0248] - 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -propane-2-one,
[0249] - 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane,
[0250] - 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane,
[0251] - 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane,
[0252] - 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane,
[0253] - 1- (C-β-D-Glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxyl-propane,
[0254] - 1- (C-α-D-Glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxyl-propane,
[0255] - 1- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxyl-propane,
[0256] - 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxyl-propane
[0257] - 1- (C-β-D-fucofuranosyl) -propane-2-one,
[0258] - 1- (C-α-D-fucofuranosyl) -propane-2-one
[0259] - 1- (C-β-L-fucofuranosyl) -propane-2-one,
[0260] - 1- (C-α-L-fucofuranosyl) -propane-2-one,
[0261] - C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,
[0262] - C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one
[0263] - C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0264] - C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, isomers thereof or mixtures thereof.
[0265] Preferably, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane is used, and more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane. Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) suitable for the invention can be advantageously C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, of which the INCI name is HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL, particularly sold under the name MEXORYL or MEXORYL by NOVEAL. Such a C-glycoside of formula (I) can also be present in concentrated form, i.e., in a hydrophilic dispersion concentrated to 70%with active substance; such a C-glycoside is marketed under the name MEXORYL by NOVEAL.
[0266] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one C-glycoside of formula (I) at a content of 1%to 25%by weight of active substance with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 5%to 18%by weight of active substance, and more specifically from 7%to 15%by weight of active substance.
[0267] Niacinamide and derivatives thereof
[0268] Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, vitamine PP or B3, has a structure according to the following formula (II) :
[0269] The term "niacinamide derivative" preferably denotes a compound wherein the amide group of the niacinamide is secondary or tertiary, preferably substituted by one or two alkyl groups independently chosen from C1-C4 alkyl groups and / or wherein at least one hydrogen atom of the pyridine group is replaced by a C1-C4 alkyl group.
[0270] Preferably, the compound chosen from niacinamide and the derivatives thereof is niacinamide.
[0271] Mention can be made for example of the product Niacinamide marketed by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS.
[0272] The composition comprises from 1%to 10%by weight of the compound chosen from niacinamide and the derivatives thereof with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0, 5%to 8%by weight, preferably from 0, 7 %to 5%by weight.
[0273] Panthenol
[0274] Panthenol (also called pantothenol) is a provitamine B5. It has a structure according to the following formula (III) :
[0275] As panthenol comprises an asymetric carbone atom, it can be present in two enantiomers, D and L. Preferably, panthenol is D-panthenol (or dexpanthenol) .
[0276] Mention can be made for example of the product D PANTHEOL marketed by BASF, D PANTHENOL marketed by DSM Nutritional Products or Hangzhou Xinfu Science &Technology.
[0277] The composition comprises from 0.5%to 10%by weight of active substance with respect to the total weight of the composition of panthenol, preferably from 0.7%to 8%by weight, preferably from 0.8%to 5%by weight.
[0278] Physiologically acceptable medium
[0279] The composition according to the invention also comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. This physiologically acceptable medium can be chosen by a person skilled in the art based on the general knowledge according to the type of composition sought.
[0280] As a general rule, this medium can be anhydrous or aqueous. It can thus comprise an aqueous phase and / or a fatty phase.
[0281] Thus, preferably, said physiologically acceptable medium comprises an aqueous phase and / or a fatty phase.
[0282] A composition considered in the invention can be formulated in the form of a solid, semi-solid or liquid emulsion.
[0283] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an aqueous composition.
[0284] "Aqueous composition" means any composition comprising at least 5%by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 5 to 95%by weight and even more preferably from 20 to 90%by weight.
[0285] Alternatively, preferably, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. "Anhydrous composition" means any composition comprising less than 5%by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition and more preferably less than 1%water, preferably less than 0.5%by weight of water, preferably any composition free from water.
[0286] A composition according to the invention can be administered topically.
[0287] For application to the skin, the composition can take the form in particular of an aqueous or oily solution; of a dispersion of the lotion or serum type; of an emulsion of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) , conversely (W / O) , or triple O / W / O or W / O / W; of a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream or aqueous or anhydrous gel type; of microcapsules or microparticles; of ionic and / or non-ionic type vesicular dispersions.
[0288] When the composition comprises an aqueous phase, it comprises water, a floral water and / or a mineral water.
[0289] Said aqueous phase can further comprise one or more organic solvents such as a C1-C8 alcohol, particularly ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, pentanol, hexanol, polyols such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, capryl / caprylic glycol, isoprene glycol, polyethylene glycol and polyol ethers.
[0290] When the composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, it can optionally further comprise a surfactant, preferably at a quantity of 0.01 to 30%by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one co-emulsifier which can be chosen from oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate, fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol, or esters of fatty acids and polyols such as glyceryl stearate.
[0291] The composition according to the invention can also comprise a fatty phase, particularly consisting of fats that are liquid at 25℃, such as oils of plant, mineral or synthetic origin, optionally volatile; fats that are solid at 25℃ such as waxes of plant, mineral or synthetic origin; pasty fats; gums; mixtures thereof.
[0292] Volatile oils are generally oils having, at 25℃, a saturation vapor pressure at least equal to 0.5 millibar (or 50 Pa) .
[0293] Among the constituents of the fatty phase, mention can be made of:
[0294] - cyclic volatile silicones having from 3 to 8 silicon atoms, preferably from 4 to 6,
[0295] - dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type cyclopolymers,
[0296] - linear volatile silicones having from 2 to 9 silicon atoms,
[0297] - volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as isoparaffins and particularly isododecane and fluorinated oils,
[0298] - polyalkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes and particularly those with trimethylsilyl terminal groups, of which mention can be made of linear polydimethylsiloxanes and alkylmethylpolysiloxanes such as cetyldimethicone (CTFA name) ,
[0299] - silicones modified by aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups,
[0300] - phenylated silicone oils,
[0301] - oils of plant or mineral origin, and particularly plant oils formed by esters of fatty acid and polyols, in particular liquid triglycerides, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, almond or avocado oils; fish oils, glycerol tricaprocaprylate, or plant oils of formula R1COOR2 wherein R1 represents the residue of a higher fatty acid including from 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, for example, Purcellin oil; paraffin oil, petroleum jelly, perhydrosqualene, wheatgerm, calophyllum, sesame, macadamia, grape seed, rapeseed, coconut, peanut, palm, castor, jojoba, olive, argan or cereal germ oil; fatty acid esters; alcohols; acetylglycerides; alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates; fatty acid triglycerides; glycerides,
[0302] - fluorinated and perfluorinated oils,
[0303] - silicone gums,
[0304] - waxes of plant, mineral or synthetic origin such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin, petrolatum, petroleum jelly, ozokerite, montan wax; beeswax, lanolin and derivatives thereof; Candelilla, Ouricury, Carnauba, Japan wax, cocoa butter, cork fiber or sugar cane waxes; hydrogenated oils that are solid at 25℃, ozokerites, fatty esters and glycerides that are solid at 25℃; polyethylene, polymethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; hydrogenated oils that are solid at 25℃; lanolins; fatty acid esters that are solid at 25℃; silicone waxes; fluorinated waxes.
[0305] The composition according to the invention can also comprise usual adjuvants in the field in question, such as hydrophilic of lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic -particularly cosmetic or pharmaceutical -active agents, preservatives, perfumes, fillers, thickening polymers, sequestering agents, pigments, nacres, UV filters, odor absorbers and dyes. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced in the fatty phase, in the aqueous phase and / or in lipid spherules.
[0306] The nature and quantity of these adjuvants can be chosen by a person skilled in the art, based on their general knowledge, so as to obtain the sought form for the composition. In any case, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, and / or the quantity thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.
[0307] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are particularly in the form of:
[0308] - a product for the care, treatment, cleansing or protection of the skin of the face or body, such as a (day, night, moisturizing) care composition for the face or body; an anti-wrinkle or anti-aging composition for the face; a mattifying composition for the face; a composition for irritated skins; a makeup removal composition; a particularly moisturizing optionally after-sun milk for the body;
[0309] - a sunscreen, artificial tanning (self-tanning) or after-sun care composition; or
[0310] - a makeup product for the skin of the face, body or lips, such as a foundation, a tinted cream, a blusher or eye shadow, a free or compact powder, an anti-dark ring stick, a concealer stick, a lipstick or a lip care product.
[0311] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method for the keratin materials, especially skin, comprising the application on the keratin materials, especially skin, of a composition according to the invention.
[0312] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition of the invention for reducing the signs of skin ageing. Preferably the signs of skin ageing are fine lines, wrinkles, thinning of the epidermis, strengthening skin barrier function and / or the appearance of saggy and wrinkled skin.
[0313] Concrete, yet non-limiting, examples, illustrating the invention, will now be provided.
[0314] In the examples, unless specified otherwise, the temperature is ambient (20℃) and expressed in degrees Celsius, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless specified otherwise.
[0315] In the examples, quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are given as a %by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition (%w / w) .
[0316] Example 1: Cosmetic composition according to the invention
[0317] The composition of the invention below is prepared according to the following protocol:
[0318] Heat the phase A at 75℃. Prepare in annex phase B: mix and heat components of phase B1 at 75℃ than add B2. Introduce B phase on phase A under shearing at 75℃ than neutralize with phase C until the emulsion is homogeneous. Start cooling and add phase D under shearing than disperse phase E below 50℃ until the emulsion is homogenous.
[0319] *a.m. = active material
[0320] Example 2: In vitro evaluation of thecomplex of theinvention
[0321] The complex of the invention has been evaluated in vitro.
[0322] For this purpose, an aqueous solution comprising 10%w / w of active material of HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL, 3%w / w of niacinamide and 1%w / w of active material of D-panthenol has been used (complex of the invention) .
[0323] An aqueous solution comprising 10%w / w of active material of HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL only has also been used as reference (C-glycoside only) .
[0324] Both solutions have been tested on a reconstructed skin (EpiKutis) and on an ex vivo model. Both mimic the effects of age in the skin, and validate the efficacy of the tested solutions. The protocols are as follows :
[0325] This test was divided into two parts: the first part was based on ex vivo skin tissue. The tightening efficacy of the sample was evaluated by detecting the changes of the elastic fiber, elastin, chondroitin sulfate and hyaluronic acid contents. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of the sample was evaluated by detecting the changes of the collagen fibers, Collagen III and Collagen XVII contents. The second part was based on 3D epidermal skin model The soothing efficacy of the sample was evaluated by detecting the changes of the inflammatory cytokines (IL-1α, IL-8) and inflammatory mediators (PGE2) contents. The repairing efficacy of the sample was evaluated by detecting the changes of the Filaggrin (FLG) content.
[0326] Test materials
[0327] Test system:
[0328] The model used in this test was reconstructed human epidermal skin model ex vivo skin tissue used in this test was provided by Guangdong Biocell Biotechnology Co. Ltd.
[0329] Main reagents:
[0330] Ex vivo culture Medium (Guangdong Biocell Biotechnology) , PBS (Solarbio) , Vitamin C (VC, Sigma) , Vitamin E (VE, Sigma) , Collagen III antibody (Abcam) , Collagen XVII antibody (Abcam) , Chondroitin sulfate antibody (Abcam) , Paraformaldehyde (Biosharp) , Masson Kit (Shaanxi Yike Biotechnology) , EpiGrowth culture medium (Guangdong Biocell Biotechnology) , IL-1ɑ ELISA Kit (Abcam) , IL-8 ELISA Kit (Abcam) , PGE2 ELISA Kit (ENZO) , FLG antibody (Abcam) .
[0331] Main equipment:
[0332] CO2 incubator (Thermo, 150I) , Ultra-clean workbench (Suzhou Antai, SW-CJ-1 F) , Microplate reader (BioTek, Epoch) , Fluorescence microscope (Leica, DM2500) , Orthography microscope (Olympus, BX53) , UVA irradiation meter (Philips) , UVB irradiation meter (Philips) .
[0333] Ex vivo skin tissue-based tests
[0334] Tissue treatment:
[0335] The obtained freshly skin tissue was immersed in 75%alcohol, washed for 30s, and then cleaned three times with sterile PBS buffer; After that, the skin tissue was cut into tissue blocks with a disposable sterile skin sampler, which had a fixed surface area size of 24±2mm. After the skin tissues were processed, they were put into the culture insert with the epidermis faced up and the dermis faced down. Then the culture insert was transferred into a 6-well plate, and 3.7mL culture solution was added to each well for further culture at 37℃ with 5%CO2, the fresh culture solution was changed everyday.
[0336] Administration:
[0337] After 2 days skin tissue culture, UV irradiation and administration were performed according to the experimental groups and corresponding treatment conditions as follows: non-treated skin, C-glycoside only and complex of the invention. Then the skin tissues were exposed to UV irradiation (30J / cm2 UVA and 50mJ / cm2 UVB) for 4 days consecutively. After each irradiation, the fresh culture medium was replaced, then the sample was applied on the skin surface. The positive control (VC+VE) group was administered under the liquid, and the sample group was administered on the surface. After 4 consecutive days of irradiation, the Ex vivo skin tissue was cultured for a further 3 days during which no irradiation was performed and only sample administration was performed.
[0338] Collagen fiber detection: The skin tissue were fixed with 4%paraformaldehyde, embedded, sectioned and stained with Victoria blue and Masson, respectively. The results were taken pictures and analyzed by Plus software.
[0339] Immunofluorescence detection: The model rings were cut out and fixed with 4%paraformaldehyde. After 24 hrs of fixation, immunohistochemical detection was performed, and pictures were taken under a microscope.
[0340] Improvement rate calculation:
[0341] Improvement rate (%) = (Sample group-Negative control group) / (Negative control group) ×100%.
[0342] Statistical analysis of results: GraphPad Prism was used to plot, and the result was expressed as Mean±SD. t-test was used for statistical analysis. Statistical analysis was two-tailed. P<0.05 was considered as significant difference, P<0.01 is considered to have extremely significant difference.
[0343] tests
[0344] Sample working solution was prepared as follows: non-treated skin, C-glycoside only and complex of the invention.
[0345] Model administration and irradiation:
[0346] 1) Model administration: According to the test group as defined above, the model was transferred to a 6-well plate, and the model was randomly divided into blank control group (BC) , negative control group (NC) , positive control group (PC; with 0.01 m / v dexamethasone) , and sample group, with three replicates per group. Each well in BC and NC groups was added with 0.9mL model medium, each well in PC group was added with 0.9mL model medium containing dexamethasone. The sample group was administered on the surface.
[0347] 2) UVB irradiation: At the end of the administration, excepted for the blank control group, the other groups were irradiated with UVB at a dose of 600mJ / cm2.
[0348] 3) Model incubation: At the end of irradiation, 6-well plates were incubated in a CO2 incubator (37℃, 5%CO2) for 24 hrs.
[0349] 4) Cleaning: At the end of incubation, the residual test objects on the surface of the model were cleaned with sterile PBS, and the residual liquid inside and outside the model was wiped with sterile cotton swabs.
[0350] ELISA detection:
[0351] After incubation for 24 hrs, the culture medium of 3D epidermal skin model was collected in a centrifuge tube. After collection, the samples for ELISA detection were stored in a refrigerator at -80℃, and the detection and analysis were performed according to the operating instructions of the ELISA kit.
[0352] Immunofluorescence detection:
[0353] The models used for detection were fixed with 4%paraformaldehyde. After 24 hrs of fixation, immunofluorescence detection was performed, and photographs were taken under a microscope.
[0354] Calculation of inhibition rate, and improvement rate
[0355] Inhibition rate (%) = (Negative control group-Sample group) / (Negative control group) ×100%.
[0356] Improvement rate (%) = (Sample group-Negative control group) / (Negative control group) ×100%.
[0357] Statistical analysis of results:
[0358] GraphPad Prism software was used to analyze the data, the result was expressed as Mean±SD. The comparisons between groups were performed using t-test statistical analysis. Statistical analysis was two-tailed. P<0.05 was considered as significant difference, P<0.01 was considered as extremely significant difference.
[0359] Test results
[0360] The results are summarized in the table below.
[0361] Increase or decrease of expression (%) of the following markers after UVB irradiation
[0362] 1 Increase or decrease of expression (%) with HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL as compared to non-treated skin
[0363] 2 Increase or decrease of expression (%) with the complex of the invention (HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL, niacinamide and D-panthenol) as compared to non-treated skin
[0364] Filaggrin is a marker of keratinocyte differentiation and good barrier function. When skin aging is induced on the model, Filaggrin expression decreases. Thanks to the C-glycoside, Filaggrin increases and with the complex of the invention it is significantly better even compared to C-glycoside only.
[0365] IL-1α, IL-8 &PGE2 are inflammatory markers. When skin aging is induced on the model, these inflammatory markers increase in the epidermis. Thanks to the C-glycoside, inflammatory markers are inhibited and with the complex of the invention it is significantly better even compared to C-glycoside only.
[0366] Collagen XVII is a marker of keratinocyte renewal and of the skin regeneration. When skin aging is induced on the model, Collagen XVII expression decreases. Thanks to the C-glycoside, Collagen XVII increases and with the complex of the invention it is significantly better even compared to C-glycoside only.
[0367] Collagen fibers are important for the structure of the dermis. When skin aging is induced on the model, Collagen fibers expression decreases. Thanks to the C-glycoside, Collagen fibers expression increases and with the complex of the invention it is significantly better even compared to C-glycoside only.
[0368] Collagen III is important for the structure of the dermis. When skin aging is induced on the model, Collagen III expression decreases. Thanks to the C-glycoside, Collagen III increases and with the complex of the invention it is significantly better even compared to C-glycoside only.
[0369] Chondroitin sulfate, a type of GAG, is an important component of the extracellular matrix of the dermis. When skin aging is induced on the model, sulfated GAG expression decreases. Thanks to the C-glycoside, sulfated GAG increases and with the complex of the invention it is significantly better even compared to C-glycoside only.
[0370] Thus, among these 8 epidermal and dermal markers, the complex of the invention shows an in vitro significant better efficacy as compared to the C-glycoside (HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL) only.
Claims
1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition:from 1%to 25%by weight of active substance of at least one C-glycoside of formula (I) ,from 1%to 10%by weight of active substance of a compound chosen from niacinamide and derivatives thereof, andfrom 0, 5%to 10%by weight of active substance of panthenol,wherein formula (I) is as follows:wherein:- R represents:- a saturated C1 to C20, in particular C1 to C10, or unsaturated C2 to C20, in particular C3 to C10, linear alkyl radical, or a saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C20, in particular C4 to C10, branched or cyclic alkyl radical;- a linear saturated C1 to C20, in particular C2 to C10, or unsaturated C2 to C20, in particular C2 to C10, or branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C20, in particular C4 to C10, hydrofluoro-or perfluoro-alkyl radical;- a phenyl or benzyl radical, the hydrocarbon chain forming said radicals optionally being, where applicable, interrupted by 1, 2, 3 or more heteroatoms chosen from:- an oxygen,- a sulfur,- a nitrogen, and- a silicon,and optionally being substituted by at least one radical chosen from:- -OR4,- -SR4,- -NR4R5,- -COOR4,- -CONHR4,- -CN,- a halogen atom,- a C1 to C6 hydrofluoro-or perfluoro-alkyl radical, and / or- a C3 to C8 cycloalkyl radical, and / or- at least one C5 to C18 cycloalkyl, aryl, heterocyclic radical, optionally substituted,where R4 and R5 can represent, independently from one another, a hydrogen atom, or a saturated C1 to C30, particularly C3 to C12, or unsaturated C2 to C30, particularly C3 to C12 linear, or saturated or unsaturated C3 to C30, particularly C4 to C12, branched or cyclic alkyl, perfluoroalkyl or hydrofluoroalkyl radical; or a C6 to C10 aryl radical,- X represents a radical chosen from -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH2) -, and preferably a –CH (OH) -group;- S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide including up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and of L and / or D series, said mono-or poly-saccharide being optionally substituted by a mandatorily free hydroxyl group, and optionally one or more optionally protected amine function (s) , and- the bond S-CH2-X represents a C-anomeric type bond, which can be α or β, or one of the physiologically acceptable salts thereof, the solvates thereof such as hydrates or the isomers thereof.2.Composition according to claim 1, wherein the C-glycoside of formula (I) is such that:- R denotes a non-substituted C1-C4, particularly C1-C2, linear alkyl radical, in particular methyl;- S represents a monosaccharide as described above, preferably D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;- X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH2) -, and preferably a -CH (OH) -group.3.Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the C-glycoside of formula (I) is chosen from:
1. C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;2. C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;3. 1- [2- (3-hydroxy-propylamino) -propyl] -C-β -D-xylopyranose;4. 1- [2- (3-hydroxy-propylamino) -propyl] -C-α-D-xylopyranose;5. C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;6. C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;7. C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-amino-propane;8. C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-amino-propane;9. C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-phenylamino-propane;10. C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-phenylamino-propane;11. 3-methyl-4- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester;12. 3-methyl-4- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester;13. 6- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;14. 6- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;15. 6- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;16. 6- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;17. 6- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;18. 6- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;19. 6- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;20. 6- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;21. 1- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -hexane-2, 6-diol;22. 1- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -hexane-2, 6-diol;23. 5- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -4-keto-pentanoic acid;24. 5- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -4-keto-pentanoic acid;25. 5- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;26. 5- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;27. 5- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid;28. 5- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid;29. 5- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -4-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;30. 5- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -4-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;31. 1- (C-β-D-xylopyranoside) -pentane-2, 5-diol;32. 1- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -pentane-2, 5-diol;33. 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -propane-2-one;34. 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -propane-2-one;35. 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -propane-2-one;36. 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -propane-2-one;37. 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane;38. 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane;39. 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane;40. 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane;41. 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -2-amino-propane;42. 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -2-amino-propane;43. 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -2-amino-propane;44. 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -2-amino-propane;45. 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -2-phenylamino-propane;46. 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -2-phenylamino-propane;47. 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -2-phenylamino-propane;48. 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -2-phenylamino-propane;49. 3-methyl-4- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester;50. 3-methyl-4- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester;51. 3-methyl-4- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester;52. 3-methyl-4- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester;53. 6- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;54. 6- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;55. 6- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;56. 6- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;57. 6- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;58. 6- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;59. 6- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;60. 6- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;61. 6- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;62. 6- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;63. 6- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;64. 6- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;65. 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2, 6-diol;66. 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2, 6-diol;67. 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2, 6-diol;68. 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2, 6-diol;69. 5- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -4-keto-pentanoic acid;70. 5- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -4-keto-pentanoic acid;71. 5- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2, 6-diol) -4-keto-pentanoic acid;72. 5- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2, 6-diol) -4-keto-pentanoic acid;73. 5- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;74. 5- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;75. 5- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;76. 5- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;77. 5- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid;78. 5- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid;79. 5- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid;80. 5- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid;81. 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -pentane-2, 5-diol;82. 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -pentane-2, 5-diol;83. 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -pentane-2, 5-diol;84. 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -pentane-2, 5-diol;85. 1- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxy-propane;86. 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxy-propane;87. 1- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-amino-propane;88. 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-amino-propane;89. 1- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-phenylamino-propane;90. 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-phenylamino-propane;91. 3-methyl-4- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -butyric acid ethyl ester;92. 3-methyl-4- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -butyric acid ethyl ester;93. 6- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;94. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;95. 6- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;96. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;97. 6- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;98. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;99. 6- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;100. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;101. 1- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -hexane-2, 6-diol;102. 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -hexane-2, 6-diol;103. 6- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid;104. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid;105. 6- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;106. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;107. 6- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-amino-pentanoic acid;108. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;109. 6- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;110. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;111. 1- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -pentane-2, 5-diol;112. 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -pentane-2, 5-diol;113. 1- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxy-propane;114. 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxy-propane;115. 1- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-amino-propane;116. 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-amino-propane;117. 1- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-phenylamino-propane;118. 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-phenylamino-propane;119. 3-methyl-4- (β-D-galactopyranosyl) -butyric acid ethyl ester;120. 3-methyl-4- (α-D-galactopyranosyl) -butyric acid ethyl ester;121. 6- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;122. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;123. 6- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;124. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;125. 6- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;126. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;127. 6- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) 5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;128. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) 5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;129. 1- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -hexane-2, 6-diol;130. 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -hexane-2, 6-diol;131. 6- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid;132. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid;133. 6- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;134. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;135. 6- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-amino-pentanoic acid;136. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-amino-pentanoic acid;137. 6- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;138. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;139. 1- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -pentane-2, 6-diol;140. 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -pentane-2, 6-diol;141. 1- (C-β-D-fucofuranosyl) -propane-2-one;142. 1- (C-α-D-fucofuranosyl) -propane-2-one;143. 1- (C-β-L-fucofuranosyl) -propane-2-one;144. 1- (C-α-L-fucofuranosyl) -propane-2-one;145. 3'- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -propane-2'-on;146. 3'- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -propane-2'-one;147. 1- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxyl-propane;148. 1- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-amino-propane;149. 1- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-phenylamino-propane;150. 1- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-phenylamino-propane;151. 3-methyl-4- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -butyric acid ethyl ester152. 3-methyl-4- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -butyric acid ethyl ester153. 6- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;154. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-hexanoic acid;155. 6- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;156. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;157. 6- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;158. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-amino-hexanoic acid;159. 6- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;160. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;161. 1- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -hexane-2, 6-diol;162. 1- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -hexane-2, 6-diol;163. 6- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid;164. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid;165. 6- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;166. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;167. 6- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-amino-pentanoic acid;168. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-amino-pentanoic acid;169. 6- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;170. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;171. 1- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -pentane-2, 5-diol; and172. 1- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -pentane-2, 5-diol, preferably the C-glycoside of formula (I) is chosen from:- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,- C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,- C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,- 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -propane-2-one,- 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -propane-2-one,- 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -propane-2-one,- 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -propane-2-one,- 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane,- 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane,- 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane,- 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane,- 1- (C-β-D-Glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxyl-propane,- 1- (C-α-D-Glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxyl-propane,- 1- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxyl-propane,- 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxyl-propane- 1- (C-β-D-fucofuranosyl) -propane-2-one,- 1- (C-α-D-fucofuranosyl) -propane-2-one- 1- (C-β-L-fucofuranosyl) -propane-2-one,- 1- (C-α-L-fucofuranosyl) -propane-2-one,- C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,- C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one- C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, and- C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane.4.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the C-glycoside of formula (I) is chosen from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane.5.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which comprises at least one C-glycoside of formula (I) at a content of 5%to 18%by weight of active substance with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 7%to 15%by weight of active substance.6.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound chosen from niacinamide and the derivatives thereof is niacinamide.7.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which comprises from 0, 5%to 8%by weight of the compound chosen from niacinamide and the derivatives thereof with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0, 7%to 5%by weight.8.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which comprises from 0, 7%to 8%by weight of active substance with respect to the total weight of the composition of panthenol, preferably from 0, 8%to 5%by weight.9.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which comprises an aqueous phase and / or a fatty phase.10.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is in the form of an aqueous or oily solution; of a dispersion of the lotion or serum type; of an emulsion of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) , conversely (W / O) , or triple O / W / O or W / O / W; of a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream or aqueous or anhydrous gel type; of microcapsules or microparticles; of ionic and / or non-ionic type vesicular dispersions.11.Composition according to claim 9, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water, a floral water and / or a mineral water ; and optionally one or more organic solvents such as a C1-C8 alcohol, particularly ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, pentanol, hexanol, polyols such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, capryl / caprylic glycol, isoprene glycol, polyethylene glycol and polyol ethers.12.Composition according to claim 9, wherein the fatty phase comprises fats that are liquid at 25℃, such as oils plant, mineral or synthetic origin, optionally volatile; fats that are solid at 25℃ such as waxes of plant, mineral or synthetic origin; pasty fats; gums; and / or mixtures thereof.13.Non-therapeutic cosmetic care method for the keratin materials, especially skin, comprising the application on the keratin materials, especially skin, of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.14.Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for reducing the signs of skin ageing.15.Cosmetic use according to claim 14, wherein the signs of skin ageing are fine lines, wrinkles, thinning of the epidermis, strengthening skin barrier function and / or the appearance of saggy and wrinkled skin.
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