Transforming hair treatment product

Abstract

Hair treatment products in the form of an emulsion, which contain, in a water-alcohol carrier, high quantities of oil and specific thickening agents and non-ionic emulsifiers, are transformed, when rubbed between the hands, into an oil that can be distributed on the hair extremely well and has a hair-care effect.

Description

[0001] Henkel AG & Co. KGaA

[0002] “Transforming Hair Treatment”

[0003] The invention relates to hair treatment compositions in emulsion form which can be transformed into an oil immediately before or during application and which contain high amounts of oil in a water-alcohol carrier in addition to specific emulsifiers and thickeners.

[0004] The invention further relates to a method of application for the hair treatment agents and the use of the hair treatment agents for the care of hair.

[0005] Hair care plays a central role in personal hygiene. Healthy, shiny, non-greasy hair with bounce and volume is widely seen as a special sign of beauty and health. At the same time, however, the widespread modern lifestyle can take a significant toll on long hair in particular. Frequent washing and blow-drying can leave their mark, as can hard water, dry air, styling products, permanent hair treatments, or toning and coloring, resulting in hair that requires special care and / or repair.

[0006] Significant nourishing and repairing effects can be achieved with classic hair masks or treatments. These are typically applied to wet hair after cleansing with water and shampoo but before conditioning, and can penetrate the hair structure to a certain extent.

[0007] The application of traditional hair masks, treatments, or conditioners, which are usually sold as emulsions or creams, can be difficult, especially on damaged, very curly, and / or long hair, resulting in the application of too much product. This is undesirable from an ecological and economic perspective, as the negative consequences can include overconditioning and / or increased water consumption, especially with rinse-out products.

[0008] Alcohol- or oil-based hair care sprays are available commercially as alternatives to traditional emulsion products. However, consumers prefer emulsion or cream products – partly because they are associated with a higher care effect and partly because they can usually be conveniently applied in the shower after cleansing your hair.

[0009] The object of the present application was to eliminate the disadvantages of classic hair masks or hair treatments and to provide very nourishing products that are quick and easy to apply - even along potentially damaged lengths of the hair fibers - and that ideally contain a high proportion of care ingredients. Ideally, the products should also contain a high proportion of natural or naturally sourced care ingredients. This object was achieved by the formulations, methods for their application, and uses described below, with which the inventors were able to provide a novel, transformative hair mask for non-weight-bearing hair care. The term "transformative" is to be understood as meaning that the hair mask significantly changes its appearance upon contact with the palms of the hands, as described in more detail below.The term “non-weighting” should be understood to mean that no weighting effect is perceived on the hair after application.

[0010] In particular, the invention provides a hair treatment composition in emulsion or cream form which contains higher amounts of oil as well as specific thickeners and non-ionic emulsifiers in a water-alcohol carrier.

[0011] The hair treatment agents according to the invention offer the advantage that, immediately before application, they transform from a viscous cream into a fluid oil by rubbing it between the palms of the hands. This fluid oil can be distributed excellently and more easily on the hair than classic emulsion products - regardless of the length or condition of the hair.

[0012] The cream-to-oil transformation not only changes the rheology but also the tactility of the hair treatment. Transformed into an oil, the product exhibits excellent spreading properties, allowing it to reach all areas of the hair and unfold its conditioning effects. This special application method ensures that only the exact amount of conditioning product required for hair care is applied more effectively, thus avoiding overconditioning effects or product waste.

[0013] The hair treatment agents according to the invention also deposit particularly well on the hair fibers and scalp and have an excellent performance profile, particularly with regard to significantly reduced split ends, hair breakage and / or frizz as well as improved hair shine and combability.

[0014] A first subject of the invention is therefore a hair treatment composition in emulsion form which - based on its total weight - a) 5.0 - 40 wt.% of at least one oil, b) 0.1 - 1 wt.% of at least one acrylate thickener, c) 0.1 - 3 wt.% of at least one non-ionic emulsifier with an HLB value in the range of 11 - 19, d) 40 - 95 wt.% of a water-alcohol carrier, and has a viscosity in the range of 1,000 - 10,000 mPas (measured with Brookfield at 20°C; spindle 4; 20 rpm). For the purposes of the invention, the term “emulsion form” refers to liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, multiple emulsions (O / W / O or W / O / W), macroemulsions, microemulsions, PIT emulsions, nanoemulsions or Pickering emulsions.

[0015] Hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferably in emulsion form as a liquid or flowable oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion) or microemulsion.

[0016] Microemulsions in the sense of the present invention preferably have average particle diameters in the range of < 400 nm.

[0017] For an optimal transformation cream -> oil, it is advantageous if the hair treatment agents according to the invention have viscosity values ​​in a narrower range.

[0018] In a particularly preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention have a viscosity in the range of 1,000 - 9,000 mPas, more preferably 1,000 - 7,500 mPas and in particular 1,000 - 6,000 mPas (measured with Brookfield at 20°C; spindle 4; 20 rpm).

[0019] The hair treatment composition according to the invention, transformed into an oil after rubbing between the palms of the hands, exhibits excellent spreading properties and can be easily and thoroughly distributed over the hair fibers. After transformation, it preferably has a viscosity in the range of 10-300 mPas, more preferably 10-250 mPas, and especially 10-200 mPas (measured with Brookfield at 20°C; spindle 4; 20 rpm).

[0020] The hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain a water-alcohol carrier. Preferably, the carrier comprises

[0021] Water in a weight proportion of at least 50 wt.%, more preferably at least 55 wt.% and in particular at least 60 wt.% and at least one alcohol in an amount of up to 20 wt.%, more preferably up to 17.5 wt.% and in particular up to 15 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0022] For the purposes of the present invention, suitable alcohols are understood to mean ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1, hexanol, 2-hexanol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, sorbitan, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol or mixtures of these alcohols.

[0023] Preferred alcohols are ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures of these alcohols. The water-alcohol carrier particularly preferably comprises ethanol in the aforementioned amounts.

[0024] It has been found that specific amounts of ethanol as a further component of the aqueous carrier confer numerous advantages on the hair care emulsion according to the invention: in addition to increased safety against microbial instability and good skin compatibility, a specific ethanol content also leads to a faster breaking of the emulsion when rubbed between the palms of the hands, thereby promoting and accelerating the transformation into an oil.

[0025] In addition, ethanol evaporates quickly and promotes the penetration of care ingredients into the scalp and / or hair fibers through improved solubilization.

[0026] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agent according to the invention comprises a water-ethanol carrier in a weight proportion of 40 - 95 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

[0027] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agent according to the invention comprises - based on its total weight -

[0028] (i) 50 - 70 wt% water

[0029] (ii) 3 - 20 wt% ethanol, with amounts of 4 - 15 wt% and in particular 5 - 10 wt% ethanol being particularly preferred.

[0030] In addition to the previously defined carrier, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention necessarily comprise an oil a).

[0031] The transformation of the hair care emulsions according to the invention into an oil is promoted by a high proportion of oils in the hair treatment agents.

[0032] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention therefore contain at least one oil a) in a weight proportion of 10 - 40 wt.%, more preferably 15 - 40 wt.% and in particular 20 - 40 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0033] Suitable oils a) within the meaning of the present invention are preferably vegetable oils, which include both liquid vegetable oils and vegetable butters and / or waxes.

[0034] Compared to synthetic, petrochemical-based, or silicone-based oils, vegetable oils have the advantage that, in addition to triglycerides, they contain a variety of high-quality, regenerating nutrients that can also penetrate the hair fibers and hair follicles and strengthen the hair roots. Regrowing hair therefore exhibits greater shine, suppleness, softness, smoothness, and elasticity without a greasy shine or weighing down the hair. In a particularly preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention accordingly contain at least one vegetable oil a) in a proportion of 10-40% by weight, preferably 15-40% by weight, and in particular 20-40% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0035] Suitable vegetable oils a) within the meaning of the present invention can be selected from Abyssinian oil, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, bamboo oil, baobab oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, cranberry seed oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, prickly pear oil, crambe seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, mallow oil, almond oil, mango seed oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, quinoa oil, rambutan oil, rapeseed oil, rice bran oil, castor oil, safflower oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sasanquana oil, Sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tea tree oil, tea seed oil (Camellia sinensis), grape seed oil, tsubaki oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, meadowfoam oil, rosehip oil, the liquid parts of (sweet) coconut oil or mixtures thereof.

[0036] Vegetable oils can be roughly divided into three groups: drying, semi-drying, and non-drying oils. To achieve the most comprehensive hair care effect possible for a variety of different hair types, it is advantageous if the hair care products according to the invention contain mixtures of vegetable oils from all three of the aforementioned groups. It is particularly advantageous if one or more vegetable oils containing a high proportion of omega-9 and omega-6 fatty acids, such as apricot kernel oil, are used in excess as oil a).

[0037] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain apricot kernel oil in a weight proportion of 10-40 wt.%, preferably 15-40 wt.% and in particular 20-40 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0038] In another particularly preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain, as vegetable oil a) Abyssinian oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, baobab oil, almond oil, tea seed oil (Camellia sinensis), or any mixtures thereof in the aforementioned amounts. The hair care emulsions according to the invention contain specific amounts of at least one acrylate thickener b) for stabilization and / or viscosity adjustment.

[0039] In a preferred embodiment, the acrylate thickener b) is used in narrower weight proportions of 0.1 - 0.9 wt.%, more preferably of 0.1 - 0.75 wt.% and in particular of 0.1 - 0.6 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

[0040] Suitable acrylate thickeners b) for use in the hair care emulsions according to the invention can, for example, be selected from acrylamide / ammonium acrylate copolymer, acrylamides / DMAPA acrylates / methoxy PEG methacrylate copolymer, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylates copolymer, acrylates / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / acrylamide copolymer, acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / t-butylacrylamide copolymer, acrylates / C1-2 succinates / hydroxyacrylates copolymer, acrylates / lauryl acrylate / stearyl acrylate / ethylamine oxide methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / octylacrylamide copolymer, acrylates / octylacrylamide / diphenyl amodimethicone copolymer, acrylates / stearyl acrylate / ethylamine oxide methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / VA copolymer, acrylates / VP copolymer, Aminoethylacrylate Phosphate / Acrylates Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol-Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer,Aminoethylpropanediol-AMPD- Acrylates / Diacetoneacrylamide Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, AMPD- Acrylates / Diacetoneacrylamide Copolymer, AMP-Acrylates / Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer, AMP- Acrylates / C1-18 Alkyl Acrylates / C1-8 Alkyl Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP- Acrylates / Diacetoneacrylamide Copolymer, AMP-Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Ethylhexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butyl Ester of Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Calcium / Sodium PVM / MA Copolymer, Corn Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Isobutylene / MA Copolymer, Isobutylmethacrylate / Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Lauryl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Methacrylic Acid / Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer,Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylates Copolymer, Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, PEG / PPG-25 / 25 Dimethicone / Acrylates Copolymer, Polyacrylamide, Polyacrylate-6, Polyethylacrylate, Polymethacryloyl Ethyl Betaine, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Potassium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, PVM / MA Copolymer, Rosin Acrylate, Sodium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Trimethylolpropane Triacrylate, VA / Crotonates / Methacryloxybenzophenone-1 Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / Acrylates / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer, VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, VP / Vinyl Caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer oder Mischungen davon.,

[0041] In a particularly preferred embodiment, homopolyacrylic acid (polyacrylic acid; INCI: Carbomer) or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof is used as acrylate thickener b) in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in the amounts stated above. Carbomer is commercially available in various forms, for example, under the name Carbopol®.

[0042] As a further essential component for stabilization and emulsification, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain specific amounts of at least one non-ionic emulsifier which has an HLB value in the range of 11 - 19.

[0043] The hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifier c) in a narrower weight proportion of 0.25 - 3 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 - 3 wt.% and in particular 0.75 - 3 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0044] Particularly suitable emulsifiers c) for the purposes of the present invention are alkoxylated, optionally hydrogenated, vegetable oils. In addition to the aforementioned stabilizing effect, these have the additional advantage of protecting the scalp and / or hair fibers from moisture loss.

[0045] Examples of particularly suitable emulsifiers c) are addition products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide with castor oil or hydrogenated castor oil, such as PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-33 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-35 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-36 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-45 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil or any mixtures thereof.

[0046] Particularly preferably, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is used in the above-mentioned amounts as emulsifier c) in the hair care emulsions according to the invention.

[0047] A particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention is characterized in that the hair care emulsion - based on its total weight - a) 5.0 - 40 wt.% of at least one vegetable oil, b) 0.1 - 1 wt.% of at least one acrylate thickener, c) 0.1 - 3 wt.% of at least one alkoxylated, optionally hydrogenated, vegetable oil with an HLB value in the range of 11 - 19, d) 40 - 95 wt.% of a water-ethanol carrier, and has a viscosity in the range of 1,000 - 10,000 mPas (measured with Brookfield at 20°C; spindle 4; 20 rpm).

[0048] To enhance the care properties, it may also be advantageous to add at least one additional hair care active ingredient to the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion of 0-15% by weight based on the total weight of the hair treatment compositions. Amounts used are more preferred, ranging from 0.01-15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05-10% by weight, and especially from 0.1-10% by weight.

[0049] The at least one additional hair care active ingredient can preferably be selected from

[0050] (i) Protein hydrolysates

[0051] (ii) Proteolipids

[0052] (iii) Vitamins

[0053] (iv) cationic polymers

[0054] (v) or mixtures thereof.

[0055] The addition of one or more hair care substances (i) - (iv) offers the advantage that the visually and haptically perceptible external care effect of the hair fibers achieved by using the hair treatment agents according to the invention can be further enhanced. The external care effect is understood to mean, in particular, increased smoothness, shine, suppleness, and volume.

[0056] For the purposes of the present invention, protein hydrolysates (i) are understood to be degradation products of proteins produced by acidic, basic, or enzymatic reactions. Due to the production process, protein hydrolysates exhibit a molecular weight distribution.

[0057] Suitable protein hydrolysates (i) can be of plant, animal, marine or synthetic origin.

[0058] Preferred protein hydrolysates of plant origin can be selected from the group consisting of soy, almond, pea, moringa, potato, and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda), Crotein® (Croda), and Puricare® LS 9658 from Laboratoires Serobiologiques.

[0059] Preferred protein hydrolysates of animal origin can be selected from the group consisting of elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, and milk protein hydrolysates, which can also be present in the form of salts. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex), ProSina® (Croda), and Kerasol® (Croda).

[0060] Preferred protein hydrolysates of marine origin can be selected from the group consisting of collagen hydrolysates from fish or algae, protein hydrolysates from mussels, and pearl hydrolysates. Examples of pearl extracts are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG® or Crodarom® Pearl.

[0061] Particularly preferred protein hydrolysates (i) are

[0062] Hydrolyzed keratin,

[0063] Hydrolyzed collagen,

[0064] Hydrolyzed silk protein,

[0065] Hydrolyzed cashmere protein,

[0066] Hydrolyzed wheat protein,

[0067] Hydrolyzed soy protein,

[0068] Hydrolyzed pea protein,

[0069] Hydrolyzed hemp seed protein,

[0070] Hydrolyzed cottonseed protein, hydrolyzed rice protein.

[0071] Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates within the meaning of the present invention are to be counted among the protein hydrolysates (i), wherein the underlying protein hydrolysate originates from the same sources as previously stated.

[0072] The weight proportion of protein hydrolysates (i) in the total weight of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can preferably be 0 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 wt.% and in particular 0.01 to 3 wt.%.

[0073] For the purposes of the present invention, proteolipids (ii) are compounds of the general

[0074] To understand formulas (II) or (III),

[0075] R'-XR" Formula (II)

[0076] [R'-XR"] + Z- Formula (III) where

[0077] R' represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated functional hydrocarbon group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms (including mixtures of such R' groups as found, for example, in natural products such as coconut oil). R" represents a protein, a peptide, or a protein hydrolysate,

[0078] Z represents a physiologically acceptable anion

[0079] - X -C(O)O- or -N + (R2)-R iV - or -N(R" V - or -C(O)-N(R v )R Vi represents,

[0080] R represents -(CH2)X-CH3, where x is 0-22, and

[0081] R iV -CH2-CH(OH)-CH2- or -(CH2)x-, optionally substituted with one or more -OH groups, where x = 0-22;

[0082] R v and R Viindependently represent -H or -(CH2)x-CH3, where x = 0-22; with the proviso that R" represents keratin or a keratin hydrolysate when X represents -C(O)O-.

[0083] If X is -0(0)0- or -N(R )R iV - or -C(O)-N(R v )R Vi the compound is uncharged and formula (II) applies. If X -N + (R2)-R iV -, i.e., the nitrogen is quaternized, a counterion is present and formula (III) applies. The counterion is any suitable physiologically acceptable anion, such as a halide. A preferred cation is chloride.

[0084] More appropriately, the or each proteolipid has the formula (IVA): where

[0085] R', R 1 ", R" and Z are as previously defined, m = 1 to 10, and

[0086] Y stands for -H or -OH.

[0087] R" may be a protein. Alternatively, R" may be a peptide. R" may also be a protein hydrolysate. Preferably, R" is a protein hydrolysate. Such a protein hydrolysate may be keratin-based, i.e., a keratin hydrolysate. Alternatively, R" may be a plant-based hydrolysate.

[0088] Preferred examples of proteolipids (ii) include:

[0089] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl keratin,

[0090] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl collagen,

[0091] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl silk protein,

[0092] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl cashmere protein,

[0093] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl rice protein,

[0094] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl wheat protein, Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl soy protein,

[0095] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl pea protein,

[0096] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl cottonseed protein,

[0097] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl hemp seed protein,

[0098] Hydrolyzed Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Keratin, Hydrolyzed Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Collagen, Hydrolyzed Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Protein, Hydrolyzed Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Cashmere Protein, Hydrolyzed Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Pea Protein, Hydrolyzed Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Cottonseed Protein, Hydrolyzed Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hempseed Protein,

[0099] The weight proportion of proteolipids (ii) in the total weight of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can preferably be 0 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 wt.% and in particular 0.01 to 3 wt.%.

[0100] Suitable vitamins (iii) are understood to mean vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors as well as their derivatives from groups A, B, C, E, F and H. The group of substances referred to as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). Beta-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Examples of suitable vitamin A components include vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol as well as its esters such as palmitate and acetate. The vitamin A component can preferably be present in cosmetic compositions in amounts of 0.005-1% by weight, based on the total composition. The vitamin B group or vitamin B complex includes, among others, o vitamin B1 (thiamine) o vitamin B2 (riboflavin) o vitamin B3. The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often referred to under this name.Nicotinamide is preferred and can be present in cosmetic compositions preferably in amounts of 0.005 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition. o Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Within this group, panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used. Useful panthenol derivatives are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and cationic panthenol derivatives. The aforementioned compounds of the vitamin B5 type can be present in the cosmetic compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05-5% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.1-2% by weight are particularly preferred. o Vitamin B5 (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal) o Vitamin B7 - cf. Vitamin H. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid).Vitamin C can be used in cosmetic compositions preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 3 wt.%, based on the total composition. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, glucosides, or phosphates can be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols can also be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, and succinate, can be present in cosmetic compositions preferably in amounts of 0.005-1 wt.%, based on the total composition. Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" usually refers to essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H.The compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]imidazole-4-valeric acid is referred to as vitamin H, but the common name biotin has since become established. Biotin can be contained in cosmetic compositions preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

[0101] The hair treatment compositions according to the invention can particularly preferably contain vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E, and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, nicotinamide, and vitamin E acetate are particularly preferred and can be added to the hair treatment compositions according to the invention both individually and in combination in the aforementioned amounts.

[0102] Suitable cationic polymers (iv) include, for example, cationic polysaccharide polymers.

[0103] Suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers can be selected from cationic cellulose compounds and / or cationic guar derivatives. Suitable cationic cellulose compounds carry more than one permanent cationic charge in at least one side chain. Preference is given to quaternized cellulose polymers derived from hydroxy(C2-C4)alkylcelluloses, particularly preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses. Such polymers are known to the person skilled in the art and are commercially available from various companies. Particular preference is given to the cationic cellulose derivatives known under the INCI names Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67, and / or Polyquaternium-72. Very particular preference is given to Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, and / or Polyquaternium-67, and especially preferred is Polyquaternium-10.

[0104] Suitable cationic guar derivatives are cationic hydroxyalkyl guar derivatives, preferably cationic hydroxyethyltrimethylammonium guar and / or cationic hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar with average molecular weights between 100,000 and 2,000,000 Daltons. Particular preference is given to the cationic guar polymers known under the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and / or Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, having a molecular weight (weight average) between 200,000 and 1,600,000 Daltons. The cationic charge density of these guar polymers is preferably at least 0.4 meq / g, more preferably at least 0.5 meq / g, and in particular at least 0.6 meq / g. Their nitrogen content is preferably in the range from 1.1 to 1.8 wt.% (based on their total weight).

[0105] Cationic guar derivatives, known under the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, are known to those skilled in the art and are available from various suppliers, for example, under the trade names Cosmedia® Guar, N-Hance® Jaguar® and / or Polycare®.

[0106] Further suitable cationic polymers for use in the cosmetic compositions can, for example, be selected from cationic polymers with the INCI names Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39 and mixtures thereof.

[0107] Cationic polymers (iv) can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2 wt.% and in particular 0.1 to 1.5 wt.%.

[0108] It has also been found that, in addition to the hair care benefits described above, a certain repair effect on damaged hair fibers and / or an internal structural strengthening of hair fibers can also be achieved if certain active ingredients are added to the hair treatment compositions according to the invention.

[0109] A further preferred embodiment is characterized in that the hair treatment agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one active ingredient for restructuring and / or strengthening the internal structure of hair fibers in a weight proportion of 0.01 - 5 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

[0110] Among suitable active ingredients for restructuring and / or strengthening the internal structure of hair fibers, preference is given to a. compounds of the following formulas (I) or (II) b. Compounds of the following formula (III)

[0111] R 7-C(O)-CH(X)-R 8(III) c. inorganic lanthanum salts and / or d. mixtures of the active ingredients a., bc, wherein in the formulas (I), (II) and (III) o R1-R4 are independently hydrogen, a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a sulfhydryl group, an aryl group or a halogen and R5 and Re are independently hydrogen, an aliphatic hydrocarbon group, an alicyclic hydrocarbon group, an aryl group, an alkylaryl group or a heterocyclic group;and o R1 -R4' are independently hydrogen, a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a sulfhydryl group, an aryl group or a halogen and R5 and Re are independently hydrogen, an aliphatic hydrocarbon group, an alicyclic hydrocarbon group, an aryl group or a heterocyclic group, it being excluded that R5' and Re' are simultaneously hydrogen, o the aliphatic hydrocarbon group, the alicyclic hydrocarbon group, the aryl group, the alkylaryl group or the heterocyclic group is substituted by at least one hydroxyl group, o one of the radicals R; 7 or R 8represents H and the other represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 1 to 15 carbon atoms, where the carbon chain may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or amino groups, and o X represents -OH, -NH2, -Cl, -Br, -I or the following groups: -O-(CH2)n-CH3, where n represents the numbers 1, 2, 3 or 4, and -O-(CH2)m-OH, where m represents the numbers 1, 2 or 3.

[0112] Suitable compounds of formulas (I) and (II) are known as mixtures. One possible way to prepare them is disclosed, for example, in patent application US 2017 / 0007518.

[0113] Preferably, at least one compound of formula (I) and at least one compound of formula (II) can be varied in a molar ratio of 0.1:1 to 99.9:1, more preferably 1:99 to 99:1, particularly preferably 20:80 to 80:20. Most preferably, the molar ratio of compounds of formula (I) to compounds of formula (II) is 40:60 to 60:40.

[0114] Very particularly preferably, a mixture of hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate in the aforementioned molar ratios can be used in the hair care emulsions according to the invention.

[0115] Such mixtures are commercially available, for example, from Ashland under the trade name Fiberhance® bm.

[0116] In particularly suitable compounds according to formula (III), one of the radicals R 7 , R 8represents H and the other represents a saturated alkyl group having 1 to 15 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred compounds of formula (III) are those in which one of the radicals R 7 , R 8 represents H and the other represents a group - (CH2)O-CH3, where 0 represents the numbers 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

[0117] Most preferably, one of the residues R 7 or R 8 for H and the other for a butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl group, in particular a hexyl group.

[0118] Also preferred are alpha-substituted compounds according to formula (III) in which the substituent X represents a hydroxyl or an amino group.

[0119] Particularly preferably, X represents a hydroxyl group.

[0120] Particularly preferred are alpha-substituted compounds of the general formula (III) in which

[0121] • one of the residues R 7 , R 8represents H or a group -(CH2)o-CH3, where 0 represents the numbers 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and

[0122] • X represents a hydroxyl group. Very particular preference is given to alpha-substituted compounds of the general formula (III) selected from alpha-hydroxybutanal, alpha-hydroxypentanal, alpha-hydroxyhexanal, alpha-hydroxyheptanal, alpha-hydroxyoctanal, alpha-hydroxybutanone, alpha-hydroxypentanone, alpha-hydroxyhexanone, alpha-hydroxyheptanone, alpha-hydroxyoctanone or mixtures thereof.

[0123] Particularly preferred are alpha-hydroxyoctanal, alpha-hydroxyoctanone or mixtures thereof.

[0124] A particularly preferred embodiment is characterized in that the hair care emulsions according to the invention additionally contain a. a mixture of hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate or b. alpha-hydroxyoctanal or alpha-hydroxyoctanone or c. lanthanum chloride or d. any mixtures of a., b. and c.

[0125] In addition to the active ingredients described above, the hair care emulsions according to the invention may further contain one or more active ingredients from one or more of the following groups:

[0126] Dyes, comprising both dyes for coloring the compositions and dyes for coloring hair, comprising oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes, natural dyes and mixtures thereof and optionally oxidizing and alkalizing agents, UV filter substances, perfumes, further thickeners such as cellulose ethers, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglucans, polygalactomannans, pectins, agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, karaya gum, tara gum, gellan, gelatin, propylene glycol alginate, alginic acids and their salts, polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyvinyl alcohols, physically (e.g. by pregelatinization) and / or chemically modified starches, complexing agents such as EDTA

[0127] Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Pyrithione, Climbazole, Propanediol Caprylate

[0128] Amino acids, preferably alanine, arginine, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glycine, lysine, proline, serine, methionine, tyrosine and mixtures thereof Pearlescent agents and / or opacifiers Keratin-reducing agents such as mercaptans, thioglycolate salts, if necessary in combination with ammonia or amines Organic acids such as citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid

[0129] Alkalizing agent

[0130] Ceramide

[0131] Propellant

[0132] Preservatives.

[0133] Another object of the invention is a hair treatment agent as defined above, which transforms into a liquid oil when rubbed between the palms of the hands.

[0134] The transformation of the hair care emulsion according to the invention into an oil by rubbing between the palms of the hands preferably takes place within a period of 1 - 20 seconds, more preferably 2 - 15 seconds and in particular 2 - 10 seconds.

[0135] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agent as defined above is a leave-on composition.

[0136] Another object of the invention is a method of application for the previously defined hair care emulsions, comprising the steps:

[0137] (i) taking an effective amount of the hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims

[0138] (ii) optional: Rub between the palms

[0139] (iii) contacting the hair treatment composition from step (i) or (ii) with wet, damp or dry hair

[0140] (iv) optional: work in or massage in to increase contact with the hair

[0141] (v) optional: Wait for an exposure time of 5 seconds to 3 minutes

[0142] (vi) optional: rinsing the hair, preferably with an aqueous liquid and in particular with water.

[0143] In a particularly preferred embodiment, step (ii) is mandatory.

[0144] Another object of the invention is the use of the previously defined hair treatment agent for the care of hair, in particular for the prevention, improvement and / or elimination of

[0145] split ends

[0146] Shine

[0147] Hair breakage frizz

[0148] Combability of particularly damaged hair fibers.

[0149] With regard to preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention and the use according to the invention, what has been said regarding the hair treatment agent according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

[0150] Examples: a) The following hair treatment products were prepared. The quantities given are in wt.% unless otherwise stated: All hair treatment products 1-5 are leave-on hair masks in emulsion form, which have a viscosity in the range of 1,000 - 10,000 mPas (measured with Brookfield at 20°C; spindle 4; 20 rpm).

[0151] After taking a suitable amount for hair conditioning, the emulsion is either rubbed between the palms of the hands or massaged directly onto the hair fibers, transforming it into a liquid oil within 2-10 seconds. It has a viscosity in the range of 10-300 mPas (measured with Brookfield at 20°C; spindle 4; 20 rpm). The oil exhibits excellent spreading properties and can be easily and completely distributed over the hair fibers. b) Evidence of effectiveness: The transformable hair care emulsion 5 was tested as follows:

[0152] 1) Hair shine

[0153] Material:

[0154] Hair strands: Human hair strands (Kerling International, Backnang, Germany); 4 cm wide and 15 cm long; extra dense (approx. 4 g); European natural hair 7 / 0 Standard # 09 / 2020; G 126

[0155] Device: Samba Hair System (Bossa Nova Vision)

[0156] Software: Samba Hair Softare 3.0.3

[0157] Tallow: Artificial Tallow 09D, WFK Testgewebe GmbH, Brüggen-Bracht, Germany Test procedure:

[0158] For the hair care emulsion, three hair strands and three additional hair strands were used as a reference series. Measurements were taken on both sides of the hair strands (6 measurements for product / reference). a) Pretreatment

[0159] The hair strands were cleaned in an ultrasonic bath (Elmasonic S 100H, 37 kHz, 150 W) with a solution of Texapon® NSO (approx. 3% active ingredient SLES, pH 6-7) in water for 5 minutes. The strands were then rinsed with tap water and dried.

[0160] A permanent wave was then applied for 20 minutes using a commercially available permanent wave lotion without conditioning ingredients (11% thioglycolic acid, pH 9.5).

[0161] After rinsing the perm lotion with water, a neutralizer was applied for 10 minutes (2.5% H2O2, pH 2.8).

[0162] After 48 hours, artificial sebum according to Bey (artificial sebum 09D, WFK Testgewebe GmbH, Brüggen-Bracht, Germany) was worked into the hair strands. Three of these strands were used as references. b) Application of the products

[0163] 0.25 g of the commercially available Schauma 7-Herb Shampoo was applied per gram of hair to the damp strands. After 2 minutes, the strands were rinsed with lukewarm tap water for 20 seconds. The application was repeated once.

[0164] Subsequently, 0.05 g (per g of hair) of the hair care emulsion was rubbed between the palms of the hands for 10 seconds according to the described procedure, transforming it into an oil. The transformed oil was applied to three of the hair strands and left in place.

[0165] The gloss measurements of the reference strands and the strands treated with product 5 were taken after a drying time of 16 hours at room temperature. c) Test procedure

[0166] The hair strands were mounted on an 80 cm diameter cylinder and placed in the Samba system. They were then photographed and analyzed.

[0167] Calculation and statistics

[0168] The change in gloss was assessed by comparing the gloss indices L of the reference hair strands and the hair strands treated with product 5. The series of measurements were compared using the following statistical tests implemented in STATISTICA 12.0 (StatSoft Inc., USA):

[0169] - Tukey test

[0170] - Shapiro-Wilks test

[0171] - Kruskal-Wallis test

[0172] - Dwass-Steel-Critchlow-Flinger test (non-parametric post-hoc test) Results:

[0173] I. Hair shine measurements

[0174] II. % change in hair shine (LBNT) of the hair strands treated with the hair care emulsion 5 according to the invention compared to the reference hair strands (mean): 63% (*) * p<0.05

[0175] —> The hair strands treated with the hair care emulsion 5 according to the invention showed a significant increase in hair shine compared to the reference hair strands. ) Anti-frizz

[0176] Material:

[0177] Hair samples: dark, curly hair strands (International Hair Importers, Glendale, NY 11685, USA; lot # 2021, FH 1 1; length: 15 cm; weight: 1.5 g)

[0178] Devices: Bolero Hair System (Bossa Nova Technologies); climate box (80% RH); tubes with a diameter of 1 cm; Braun Satin Hair 7 deionizing brush to prevent electrostatic charging

[0179] Software: Bolero Software 4.45

[0180] Conducting the test:

[0181] Two products were tested: the hair care emulsion 5 according to the invention and a hair oil with the following composition:

[0182] For each product, 10 hair strands were used. a) Pretreatment

[0183] The hair strands were washed with a 3% SLES solution (pH 6-7) in water for 10 minutes and then rinsed with tap water for 5 minutes. Excess water was then removed. The previously combed hair strands were arranged horizontally in open tubes and dried over a warm air stream.

[0184] The dried hair strands were carefully removed from the tubes and stored at 80% rH and 21 °C for 24 hours.

[0185] The volume of the hair strands was then determined (reference measurement - see point c)). b) Application of the products

[0186] Before applying the respective product, the hair strands were soaked in water for 5 minutes and then combed. Excess water was then removed. 0.15 g (per g of hair) of the respective product was then applied to the hair and evenly distributed. After application, the hair strands were combed.

[0187] The hair strands were then placed horizontally in open tubes and dried over a warm air stream. The dried hair strands were carefully removed from the tubes and stored at 80% relative humidity and 21°C for 24 hours. The volume of the hair strands was then determined. c) Determination of hair strand volume

[0188] In the Bolero imaging system, the hair strands hung on a rotating platform in front of an LED panel. While the hair strand automatically rotated 360°, an image was captured every 10°. The projected areas were determined for all 36 images, and the 3D volume of the hair strands was calculated using the Bolero software.

[0189] The change in frizz was semi-quantitatively measured based on the average

[0190] Volume change is calculated according to the following formula (where the curvature of the

[0191] Hair fibers were not taken into account):

[0192] Volume (treated) — Volume (reference)

[0193] % Change = - — - — — - - - - x 100

[0194] Volume (reference)

[0195] Calculation and statistics:

[0196] The change in frizz was assessed by comparing volume before and after application of the respective product. The measurements were compared using the following statistical tests implemented in STATISTICA 12.0 (StatSoft Inc., USA):

[0197] - Tukey test

[0198] - Shapiro-Wilks test

[0199] - Two-sample Student's paired t-test

[0200] Results: p<0.05

[0201] -^After applying both care products, significantly less frizz was detected than in the untreated hair strands, with the reduction in frizz being greater after applying the hair care emulsion according to the invention. ) Split ends / hair breakage

[0202] Material:

[0203] Hair samples: IHIP (NY), European natural hair 6 / 0; lot # S 100; Length: 12 cm tip ends; Weight: 1 + / - 0.05 g

[0204] Combs: HERCULES Sägemann, fine-toothed hard rubber comb

[0205] Device: Custom-made machine for the automated combing of 10 strands each, containing plastic boxes to collect the broken hairs. Custom-made rotating sieves with a mesh size of 200 pm.

[0206] Satorius CP 224S

[0207] Carrying out the test: a) Pretreatment

[0208] The hair strands were cleaned with a 3% SLES solution (pH 6-7) in an ultrasonic bath for 5 minutes. The strands were then rinsed with tap water for 5 minutes while automatically combing.

[0209] Before applying the product according to the invention, the hair strands were bleached to a medium shade and stored at 25°C and 25% relative humidity for at least 48 hours. b) Application of the products

[0210] For the product according to the invention and for the reference measurements, 10 hair strands were used each.

[0211] 0.15 g of the product 5 according to the invention (per g of hair) was rubbed between the palms of the hands as described above and applied to the hair strands without subsequent rinsing.

[0212] The hair strands were stored at 25°C and 25% rH for at least 24 hours and then at 25°C and 50% rH for at least one hour.

[0213] Measurements:

[0214] The tests were conducted at constant temperature and humidity (25°C; 50% RH). The hair strands treated with the product according to the invention, as well as a control series of untreated hair strands, were combed 20,000 times (20,000 combs simulate approximately 14 to 18 combs per day for hair that is 3-4 years old).

[0215] Determination of split ends:

[0216] A section of hair was cut from each strand 1.5 cm from the tip. The hair was then transferred to a very fine sieve (200 μm mesh). Using an air stream blown from the bottom of the sieve, hair fibers with split ends were separated from hair fibers without. For each strand of hair, the amount of hair with split ends remaining at the top of the sieve was determined and compared to the total amount of hair cut. Determination of hair breakage:

[0217] For each strand of hair, the broken hairs were collected in a box under the comb (see above).

[0218] The amount of broken hair was weighed and compared to the total amount of hair cut.

[0219] Calculation:

[0220] The measurement series were compared using the following statistical tests implemented in STATISTICA 12.0 (StatSoft Inc., USA):

[0221] - Tukey test

[0222] - Shapiro-Wilks test

[0223] - Kruskal-Wallis test

[0224] - Dwass-Steel-Crtichlow-Flinger test

[0225] Results: a) Number of split ends after 20,000 combings b) Extent of hair breakage after 20,000 combings

[0226] After 20,000 combing cycles, the hair strands treated with the product according to the invention show less hair breakage and split ends compared to the medium-bleached reference strands without the product.

[0227] The measured differences are statistically significant.

Claims

Patent claims:

1. Hair treatment composition in emulsion form, containing - based on its total weight - a) 5.0 - 40 wt.% of at least one oil, b) 0.1 - 1 wt.% of at least one acrylate thickener, c) 0.1 - 3 wt.% of at least one non-ionic emulsifier with an HLB value in the range of 11 - 19, d) 40 - 95 wt.% of a water-alcohol carrier, characterized in that the hair treatment composition has a viscosity in the range of 1,000 - 10,000 mPas (measured with Brookfield at 20°C; spindle 4; 20 rpm).

2. Hair treatment composition according to claim 1, containing a water-ethanol carrier in a weight proportion of 40 - 95 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

3. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, containing as oil a) at least one vegetable oil in a weight proportion of 10 - 40 wt.%, preferably 15 - 40% by weight and in particular 20 - 40% by weight of the total weight of the hair treatment product.

4. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, containing as Acrylate thickener b) Polyacrylic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt of polyacrylic acid.

5. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, containing as non-ionic emulsifier c) at least one alkoxylated, optionally hydrogenated, vegetable oil.

6. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, containing a) 5.0 - 40 wt.% of at least one vegetable oil, b) 0.1 - 1 wt.% of at least one acrylate thickener, c) 0.1 - 3 wt.% of at least one alkoxylated, optionally hydrogenated, vegetable oil with an HLB value in the range of 11 - 19, d) 40 - 95 wt.% of a water-ethanol carrier, characterized in that the hair treatment agent has a viscosity in the range of 1,000 - 10,000 mPas (measured with Brookfield at 20°C; spindle 4; 20 rpm).

7. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, containing at least one active ingredient for restructuring and / or strengthening the internal structure of hair fibers in a weight proportion of 0.01 - 5 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

8. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it transforms into a liquid oil when rubbed between the palms of the hands.

9. A method comprising the steps of: (i) taking an effective amount of the hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims (ii) optional: Rub between the palms (iii) contacting the hair treatment composition from step (i) or (ii) with wet, damp or dry hair (iv) optional: work in or massage in to increase contact with the hair (v) optional: Wait for an exposure time of 5 seconds to 3 minutes (vi) optional: rinsing the hair, preferably with an aqueous liquid and in particular with water.

10. Use of a hair treatment agent according to one of claims 1 to 9 for the care of hair, in particular for the prevention, improvement and / or elimination of split ends Shine Hair breakage Frizz Combability of especially damaged hair fibers.

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