Method and kit for conditioning and structurally improving damaged keratin fibers ii

The method addresses the damage caused by oxidative hair treatments by using carbodiimides or polycarbodiimides in combination with an acidic treatment to enhance the structural integrity and tensile strength of keratin fibers.

WO2025124850A1PCT designated stage expired Publication Date: 2025-06-19HENKEL KGAA
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Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/EP2024/082810
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-12-12
Filing Date
2024-11-19
Publication Date
2025-06-19

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Oxidative treatments for keratin fibers, such as hair, cause damage due to aggressive agents like oxidizing and alkalizing agents, leading to reduced hydrophobicity, damage to the fiber structure, and impaired properties like shine, softness, and elasticity.

Method used

A method involving the application of a composition containing carbodiimides or polycarbodiimides to keratin fibers, followed by an acidic treatment with an inorganic acid without rinsing, to improve the tensile strength and structural integrity of the fibers.

Benefits of technology

The method significantly improves the tensile strength and structural integrity of keratin fibers, reducing damage caused by oxidative treatments while maintaining the desired properties of the hair.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a method and a kit for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair, in particular in order to improve the structure of damaged keratin fibers.
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Description

[0001] 1 1.1 1.2024

[0002] Patent application

[0003] Process and kit for conditioning and structural improvement of damaged keratin fibers II

[0004] The present invention relates to a method and a kit for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair, in particular for improving the structure of damaged keratin fibers.

[0005] Oxidative treatments of keratin fibers, such as coloring or bleaching hair, pose the problem that the aggressive agents, especially oxidizing agents, but also alkalizing agents, can cause damage to the keratin fibers. For example, these agents reduce the natural hydrophobicity of the keratin fibers, as the coloring or lightening agents must make the keratin fibers permeable to exert their effect within the fiber. However, the water-repellent effect is, on the one hand, a natural protection of the keratin fibers, especially of the hair, and, on the other hand, closely linked to consumer-desired parameters such as shine, softness, feel, and "fall" of the keratin fibers, especially of the hair.

[0006] In addition to damage to the surface of the keratin fibers, aggressive agents, especially oxidizing agents and alkalizing agents, can also cause permanent damage to the inner fiber structure. In addition to numerous changes to the keratin fibers, the disulfide bonds present in the keratin fibers are primarily broken down. This structural damage to the keratin fibers manifests itself in reduced extensibility and elasticity of the fibers, which can be clearly demonstrated by determining the tensile elongation (Young's modulus). Structural damage to the keratin fibers also manifests itself in a reduced melting point of the keratin fibers, measured, for example, by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).

[0007] In order to eliminate or even avoid the disadvantages mentioned, various means and treatment methods are already known.

[0008] To reduce damage caused by hair treatments with aggressive agents, active ingredients with a damage-reducing effect can be added. These include, for example, organic acids, especially saturated or unsaturated dicarboxylic acids such as succinic acid and maleic acid; hydroxycarboxylic acids such as lactic acid or malic acid; or sulfonic acids such as taurine. However, such acids lower the pH of the hair treatment product, which can compromise the actual purpose of the hair treatment, such as oxidative coloring or lightening, since an alkaline pH in the range of pH 9 to approximately pH 10.5 is normally necessary for a good coloring or lightening result. Silicones and polymers, especially cationic polymers, can also improve the properties of damaged keratin fibers.However, an increasing number of consumers prefer to forgo the use of these fully synthetic chemicals in favor of more sustainable raw materials, such as non-synthetic oils and protein hydrolysates. Furthermore, these conditioning agents essentially only act on the surface of the keratin fibers, often without exerting a lasting restructuring effect.

[0009] There are also pretreatment products on the market that are supposed to protect hair from the effects of aggressive agents. However, these often weigh down the hair or impair the success of subsequent lightening or coloring; in particular, the washfastness of the color can be impaired by the pretreatment product.

[0010] Numerous aftercare products are also known that attempt to repair fiber damage caused by oxidative and / or highly alkaline hair treatments. However, all of these procedures require a multi-step application process, either before or after the coloring or lightening process. This is often perceived as annoying by consumers, as the oxidative coloring or lightening treatment itself is very time-consuming, with multiple steps and a contact time of up to 60 minutes.

[0011] The object of the present invention was to provide methods and kits for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which overcome the aforementioned disadvantages and at least partially repair damage caused by an oxidative treatment or minimize this damage without negatively influencing the desired result of the oxidative fiber treatment.

[0012] In particular, the goal was to provide procedures and kits that do not weigh down the hair. Furthermore, the achieved hair protection should be as time-consuming as possible and, if possible, be carried out in conjunction with the actual oxidative treatment. Another objective was to provide flexible procedures and kits for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers, especially for the conditioning treatment of damaged keratin fibers, and particularly for the restructuring and damage-reducing treatment of damaged keratin fibers.

[0013] The use of carbodiimides and polycarbodiimides in hair care has long been known in the prior art. EP3342395A2 discloses the use of polycarbodiimides as vehicles to covalently bind cosmetic active ingredients to keratinic surfaces, such as hair or skin. KR20160123549A discloses the use of polycarbodiimides in acidic solution as vehicles to covalently bind an acrylate or methacrylate (co)polymer to keratinic surfaces, in particular to hair, in order to thereby strengthen the hair. FR1567219A discloses the use of a post-treatment agent for oxidatively dyed hair containing a carbodiimide or a polycarbodiimide. This post-treatment improves the fastness properties of the dye to various external influences, such as shampooing.WO2022189575A1 discloses the use of polycarbodiimides in combination with an associative polymer and with a pigment or a direct dye to achieve a uniformly colored coating on the hair that exhibits good fastness properties to shampooing, brushing, or rubbing. The coloring process does not cause hair damage.

[0014] Surprisingly, it was discovered that the spectrum of action of carbodiimides and polycarbodiimides can be extended to the repair of oxidative damage and the improvement of the internal structure of keratin fibers by subjecting the keratin fibers to an acidic treatment with an inorganic acid after an alkaline treatment with a carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide, without a rinsing step between the alkaline and acidic treatments. The process according to the invention significantly improves the tensile strength of the keratin fibers compared to known treatment methods.

[0015] The present invention relates to a method for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which comprises the following method steps in the given order: a) applying a composition (CDI) which contains at least one carbodiimide or at least one polycarbodiimide in an aqueous cosmetic carrier and has a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.0, preferably 8.5 to 10.5, particularly preferably 9.0 to 10.2, in each case measured at 20°C, to the keratin fibers, b) leaving the composition (CDI) on the keratin fibers for a time of 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 1 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 5 to 30 minutes, extremely preferably 10 to 15 minutes, without rinsing out the composition (CDI), c) optionally drying the keratin fibers, d) applying an aqueous composition (A) to the keratin fibers which have been treated with the composition (CDI) and optionally dried Keratin fibers,wherein the composition (A) contains an inorganic acid and has an acidic pH, wherein the pH is preferably 0.2-6.5, more preferably 2.0-6.0, particularly preferably 3.0-5.5, extraordinarily preferably 4.0-5.0, further extraordinarily preferably 4.3-4.6, in each case measured at 20°C, and wherein the composition (A) does not contain any compounds having one or more carboxyl groups, e) allowing to act for a time of 10 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 30 minutes, particularly preferably 1 to 20 minutes, extraordinarily preferably 2 to 15 minutes, further extraordinarily preferably 5 to 10 minutes, f) rinsing the keratin fibers with water, g) optionally drying the keratin fibers.

[0016] According to the invention, "conditioning treatment" of keratin fibers means that the fibers have improved after a treatment according to the invention or preferred according to the invention with respect to at least one test parameter compared to the pre-treatment state. Suitable test parameters include, for example, extensibility, elasticity, and melting point of the keratin fibers, e.g., measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), as well as wet combability or wet combing efficiency and dry combability or dry combing efficiency.

[0017] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the at least one polycarbodiimide is selected from compounds of the structural formula (CDI-I) wherein

[0018] Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or an NH group,

[0019] R1 and R2 independently of one another represent a group selected from a hydrocarbon group, preferably from at least one alkyl group which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, further selected from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydealkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide, e.g. propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane groups and mixtures thereof;

[0020] - n is an integer in the range from 1 to 200, preferably 2 to 200, particularly preferably 3 to 150, further particularly preferably 4 to 100, further particularly preferably 4 to 50, further particularly preferably 4 to 10, extremely preferably 6 to 7; and

[0021] - A represents a divalent group selected from the substituents shown below:

[0022]

[0023] For the purposes of this application, the following definitions apply:

[0024] - “Alkyl” group means a linear or branched, saturated group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms;

[0025] - “Aminoalkyl” group means a linear or branched, saturated group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms and an -NHh group;

[0026] - “Hydroxyalkyl” group means a linear or branched, saturated group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms and one -OH group;

[0027] - “Alkylene” group stands for a divalent linear or branched, saturated C1-C4 hydrocarbon-based group, in particular methylene, ethylene, propylene, isopropylene, n-propylene, n-butylene, isobutylene or tert-butylene;

[0028] - “Cycloalkyl” group or “alicycloalkyl” group represents a saturated monocyclic or bicyclic, preferably monocyclic, hydrocarbon-based group comprising 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 15 carbon atoms, particularly preferably 5 to 13 carbon atoms, further preferably 6 to 12 carbon atoms, further preferably 7 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular a cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl or norbornyl group, particularly preferably a cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl group, where the cycloalkyl group may optionally be substituted by one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups, preferably by methyl, and / or optionally by one or more C1-C4 alkylene groups, preferably by methylene or by isopropylene; the cycloalkyl group is then particularly preferably an isobornyl group;

[0029] - “Cycloalkylene” group represents a divalent cycloalkyl group as defined above for “cycloalkyl”, with preferred cycloalkylene groups having 3 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0030] - "Aryl" group represents a monocyclic, bicyclic or bicyclic aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 12 carbon atoms; preferred aryl groups are selected from phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, particularly preferably phenyl, wherein the aryl group may optionally be substituted with one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups, preferably with methyl; particularly preferably, the aryl group is then a group selected from tolyl, xylyl and methylnaphthyl;

[0031] - “Arylene” group means a divalent aryl group as defined above for “aryl”; where “arylene” preferably means phenylene;

[0032] - “heterocyclic” group means a saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic or aromatic, monocyclic or polycyclic hydrocarbon-based group having one or more heteroatoms, preferably 1 to 5 heteroatoms, selected from O, S or N, wherein the heterocycle has 3 to 20 ring atoms, preferably 5 to 10 ring atoms, such as imidazolyl, pyrrolyl and furanyl;

[0033] - “Heterocycloalkylene” group means a divalent heterocyclic group as defined above for “heterocyclic”;

[0034] - “reactive” group means a group that is capable of forming a covalent bond with another group, whether the same or different, through a chemical reaction.

[0035] Carbodiimides and polycarbodiimides

[0036] In the methods according to the invention and preferred according to the invention for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers, in a first method step a composition (CDI) is applied to the keratin fibers which contains at least one carbodiimide or at least one polycarbodiimide and mixtures thereof in an aqueous cosmetic carrier and has a pH in the range of 8.0 to 11.0, preferably 8.5 to 10.5, particularly preferably 9.0 to 10.2, in each case measured at 20°C.

[0037] The composition (CDI) may contain at least two different carbodiimides or polycarbodiimides and mixtures thereof.

[0038] A carbodiimide is a compound that has a divalent carbodiimide group of the general structural formula -N=C=N- in the molecule.

[0039] A polycarbodiimide is a compound having two or more carbodiimide groups of the general structural formula -N=C=N- in the molecule; preferably, no more than 200 carbodiimide groups are contained in the molecule, particularly preferably no more than 150 carbodiimide groups, and extremely preferably no more than 100 carbodiimide groups.

[0040] The term "(poly)carbodiimide" encompasses carbodiimides and polycarbodiimides. According to the invention, polycarbodiimides with 2 to 200 carbodiimide groups are preferred, preferably 3 to 150 carbodiimide groups, particularly preferably 4 to 100 carbodiimide groups, extraordinarily preferably 4 to 50 carbodiimide groups, further extraordinarily preferably 4 to 10 carbodiimide groups, with 6 to 7 carbodiimide groups also being extraordinarily preferred. Carbodiimide groups are obtainable from two isocyanate groups with elimination of carbon dioxide: RN=C=O + O=C=NR RN=C=NR + CO2

[0041] Starting from diisocyanates, oligomeric compounds containing multiple carbodiimide groups and optionally isocyanate groups, especially terminal isocyanate groups, are obtainable, so-called polycarbodiimides. Any remaining isocyanate groups can be further reacted with alcohols, thiols, primary or secondary amines, for example, to form urethane, thiourethane, or urea groups. Therefore, the polycarbodiimides can contain urethane, thiourethane, or urea groups in addition to free isocyanate groups.

[0042] The production of polycarbodiimides from diisocyanates is known per se and is described, for example, in US2840589A, US2853473A, US2941966A, and EP628541A. In all common production processes, phosphorus compounds are used as catalysts (carbodiimidization catalysts), such as various phosphorene oxides, for example 1-methyl-2-phospholene-1-oxide and / or 1-methyl-3-phospholene-1-oxide, 3-methyl-2-phospholene-1-oxide and / or 3-methyl-3-phospholene-1-oxide, 1-phenyl-2-phospholene-1-oxide and / or 1-phenyl-3-phospholene-1-oxide. Polycarbodiimides can be produced particularly gently and free of byproducts by catalysis according to DE2504400A1, DE2552350A1, and EP609698A1. The carbodiimidization of diisocyanates in the presence of catalysts such as phosphoric oxide is already known in principle.It is also known that aromatic isocyanates can be converted to carbodiimides under significantly milder reaction conditions and with smaller amounts of phospholene oxide catalyst. Isocyanate compounds, such as di-4,4'-diisocyanatocyclohexylmethane or isophorone diisocyanate, which contain secondary isocyanate groups, react more slowly and require larger amounts of carbodiimidization catalysts.

[0043] The average functionality of carbodiimide units is the average number of carbodiimide units in a polycarbodiimide molecule. The average functionality can also be a fractional number. Preferred methods and kits according to the invention for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers are characterized in that the polycarbodiimide used therein has an average functionality of 1 to 10, preferably 2 to 7, particularly preferably 3 to 7. If the average functionality is higher than 10, the dispersibility of the polycarbodiimide in water is low.

[0044] Preferred methods and kits for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers according to the invention are characterized in that the polycarbodiimide used therein was obtained by polycondensation of at least one aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic diisocyanate selected from the group consisting of methylene diisocyanate, dimethylene diisocyanate, trimethylene diisocyanate, tetramethylene diisocyanate, pentamethylene diisocyanate, dipropyl ether diisocyanate, 2,2-dimethylpentane diisocyanate, 3-methoxyhexane diisocyanate, octamethylene diisocyanate, 2,2,4-trimethylpentane diisocyanate, nonamethylene diisocyanate, decamethylene diisocyanate, 3-butoxyhexane diisocyanate, 1,4-butylene glycol dipropyl ether diisocyanate, thiodihexyl diisocyanate, metaxylylene diisocyanate, paraxylylene diisocyanate, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, 4,4'- Dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate (H12MDI), isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI), hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), hydrogenated xylylene diisocyanate (H6XDI), 1,12-Diisocyanate dodecane (DDI), norbornane diisocyanate (NBDI) and 2,4-bis(8-isocyanatoctyl)-1,3-dioctylcyclobutane (OCDI).,

[0045] Diisocyanates particularly preferred for use in the invention are isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI), hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), hydrogenated xylylene diisocyanate (H6XDI), and 4,4'-dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate (H12MDI). The cycloaliphatic diisocyanate 4,4'-dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate (H12MDI) is particularly preferred.

[0046] The conversion of diisocyanate to polycarbodiimide takes place at a temperature in the range of 160 to 230 °C, preferably in the range of 180 °C to 210 °C, particularly preferably in the range of 185 °C to 205 °C.

[0047] For methods and kits preferred according to the invention, it is particularly advantageous if the polycarbodiimide used therein is reacted by further reaction with at least one hydrophilic compound which carries at least one group reactive towards isocyanate and / or carbodiimide groups, so that the resulting polycarbodiimide subsequently carries hydrophilic substituents which increase its water solubility or water dispersibility.

[0048] Typically, hydrophilicized polycarbodiimides used according to the invention and preferably according to the invention are prepared by a process comprising the following steps: a) reacting at least one aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic diisocyanate at a temperature in the range from 160 to 230 °C in the presence of 50 to 3000 ppm of carbodiimidization catalyst, based on the molar amount of diisocyanate, to form a polycarbodiimide having an average functionality of 1 to 10 carbodiimide units, wherein the reaction gases are temporarily or permanently removed from the reaction medium, b) reacting the polycarbodiimide obtained in step a) with at least one hydrophilic compound which carries at least one group which is reactive towards isocyanate and / or carbodiimide groups and which is selected from the group consisting of polyethoxymonools, polyethoxydiols, polyethoxypolypropoxymonools, polyethoxypolypropoxydiols,Polyethoxymonoamines, polyethoxydiamines, polyethoxypolypropoxymonoamines, polyethoxypolypropoxydiamines, hydroxyalkylsulfonates, aminealkylsulfonates, polyethoxymonothiols, polyethoxydithiols, polyethoxymonocarboxylic acids, polyethoxydicarboxylic acids, monohydroxycarboxylic acids, dihydroxycarboxylic acids and the salts of the aforementioned acids to form a hydrophilized polycarbodiimide, c) optionally further reacting the unreacted isocyanate groups with further compounds reactive towards isocyanate groups, such as preferably with water, at least one C1-C4 monoalcohol, in particular methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, sec-butanol and tert-butanol, thiols, amines, mineral acids and carboxylic acids.

[0049] Preferably, the reaction of the isocyanate-containing polycarbodiimide obtained in step a) according to the present invention is carried out such that 10 to 70 mol percent (mol%) of the isocyanate groups present in the polycarbodiimide are reacted with at least one hydrophilic compound as sub-step b1) of step b), wherein the hydrophilic compound is selected from the group consisting of polyethoxymonothiols, polyethoxydithiols, polyethoxymonocarboxylic acids, polyethoxydicarboxylic acids, monohydroxycarboxylic acids, dihydroxycarboxylic acids and the salts of the aforementioned acids, as well as mixtures of these compounds. In sub-step b2) of step b), 30-90 mol.-% of the remaining isocyanate groups are then reacted with at least one compound which is reactive towards isocyanate groups and which is selected from the group consisting of polyethoxymonothiols, polyethoxydithiols, polyethoxymonocarboxylic acids, polyethoxydicarboxylic acids, monohydroxycarboxylic acids, dihydroxycarboxylic acids, the salts of the aforementioned acids, water, at least one C1-C4 monoalcohol, in particular methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, sec-butanol and tert-butanol, Ci - C30 thiols, amines, mineral acids and carboxylic acids, and mixtures of these compounds.

[0050] Preferably, the reaction of the polycarbodiimides in sub-step b1) of step b) is carried out with at least one compound selected from the group of compounds corresponding to the formula (EO-I):

[0051] R 1 -O-(CH2-CH2-O)mH formula (EO-I), with

[0052] R 1= C1- to C30-alkyl, C2- to C29-acyl or an aryl group m = 4 to 60, preferably 4-20, particularly preferably 5-15, extraordinarily preferably 6-9, particularly preferably with at least one compound selected from the group corresponding to the formula (EO-I), where R 1 is a methyl group and m = 4-20, preferably 5-15, particularly preferably 6-9.

[0053] A particularly preferred compound of formula (EO-I) is monomethoxypolyethylene glycol with m = 5-15.

[0054] Preferred hydrophilic compounds which can be used for a further reaction of the isocyanate groups present in the polycarbodiimide and not fully reacted with the hydrophilic compounds in sub-step b2) of step b) are water, Ci - Cso monoalcohols and Ci - Cso diols, each with a molecular weight in the range from 32 to 500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range from 62 to 300 g / mol. Very particular preference is given to Ci-Cso-monoalcohols, in particular methanol, ethanol, propanol, 1-butanol, 1-pentanol, 1-hexanol, cyclohexanol, cyclohexylmethanol, 2-ethylhexanol, dodecanol, stearyl alcohol or oleyl alcohol, mixtures thereof with one another, and Ci-Cso-diols, such as preferably 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, cyclohexanediol, cyclohexanedimethanol, 1,8-octanediol, 1,9-nonadiol, 1,10-decanediol, 1,11-undecanediol, 1,12-dodecanediol, 1,13-tridecanediol, tricyclodecanedimethanol and mixtures thereof with one another.

[0055] The hydrophilicized polycarbodiimide obtained in process step b) is dispersed in an aqueous cosmetic carrier to form a composition (CDI) which has a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.0 or is adjusted to a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.0, in each case measured at 20°C. In this form, the composition (CDI) is used in the methods and kits according to the invention. Amine solutions, alkalis and buffer solutions can be used to adjust the pH of the composition (CDI) required or preferred according to the invention. The pH of the composition (CDI) can be adjusted by adding a base or an alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of alkali hydroxides, ammonia and tertiary amines. Examples of alkali hydroxides include lithium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Examples of tertiary amines include a trialkylamine such as triethylamine and ethanolamines.In an alternative embodiment, a buffer selected from the group consisting of phosphate buffers, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane buffers, and aminoalkylsulfonic acid buffers can be used to adjust the pH of the composition (CDI). According to the invention, the aqueous compositions (CDI) preferably contain, based on their weight, at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide in a total amount of 0.1-20 wt.%, preferably 0.5-10 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0-5.0 wt.%, and extremely preferably 2.0-4.0 wt.%.

[0056] According to a preferred embodiment of the methods and kits according to the invention, the at least one polycarbodiimide is selected from compounds of the general structural formula (XIV) shown below wherein n is an integer in the range from 3 to 50, preferably 4 to 20, particularly preferably 4 to 10, extremely preferably 6 to 7; and

[0057] R2 and R3, independently of one another, represent a radical derived from a compound selected from the group consisting of a monoalkoxypoly(ethylene glycol) according to the general formula (EO-I) with m = 4 to 60, and a radical derived from C1 to C30 alcohol or a C5 to C90 monoalkoxyethylene glycol. Preferred compounds of the general formula (XIV) independently of one another carry as R2 and R3 radicals derived from monomethoxypoly(ethylene glycol) according to the general formula (EO-I) with m = 4-20, preferably 5-15, particularly preferably 6-9, and C1 to C30 monoalkoxyethylene glycol. The particularly preferred compound of the general formula (XIV) independently of one another carries radicals R2 and R3 derived from monomethoxypoly(ethylene glycol) according to the general formula (EO-I) with m = 4-20, preferably 5-15, particularly preferably 6-9, and derived from monobutoxyethylene glycol.

[0058] According to a preferred embodiment of the methods and kits according to the invention, the at least one polycarbodiimide is selected from compounds of the general structural formula (XIII) shown below

[0059] (XIII), wherein n is an integer in the range from 3 to 50, preferably 4 to 20, particularly preferably 4 to 10, extraordinarily preferably 6 to 7; and m is an integer in the range from 1 to 10, preferably 1 to 5.

[0060] Further (poly)carbodiimide compounds preferably used according to the invention can optionally contain in their structure one or more reactive groups which are different from carbodiimide groups, wherein these reactive groups are selected from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide, e.g. propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane groups.

[0061] The reactive groups other than carbodiimide groups can be present in the (poly)carbodiimide at the terminal position or as a side chain. Preferably, the at least one reactive group other than a carbodiimide group occupies a terminal position in the (poly)carbodiimide. Carbodiimides and polycarbodiimides preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that they have at least one reactive group other than a carbodiimide group in the terminal position, which reactive group is selected from an alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide, e.g. propylepoxide or butylepoxide, or azacyclopropane group.

[0062] According to a preferred embodiment of the methods and kits according to the invention, the at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide is selected from compounds of the general structural formula (CDI-I) shown below wherein:

[0063] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or an NH group;

[0064] - R1 and R2 independently of one another represent a substituent selected from a hydrocarbon group, preferably an alkyl group, which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, further selected from an alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide, e.g. propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane group,

[0065] - n is an integer in the range from 1 to 200, preferably 2 to 200, particularly preferably 3 to 150, further particularly preferably 4 to 100, further particularly preferably 4 to 50, further particularly preferably 4 to 10, extremely preferably 6 to 7; and

[0066] - A represents a divalent group selected from the substituents shown below:

[0067]

[0068] According to a preferred embodiment of the methods and kits according to the invention, the at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide is selected from compounds of the general structural formula (Ia) shown below, wherein

[0069] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or an NH group,

[0070] - Y1 and Y2 independently represent a divalent organic group selected from a saturated, aliphatic Ci-C36 group or an aromatic Ce-C24 group, wherein the aliphatic or aromatic group may optionally be interrupted by at least one heteroatom, such as a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom or a sulfur atom;

[0071] - Z1 and Z2 independently represent a reactive end group or an inert end group;

[0072] - if Z1 and / or Z2 represent an inert end group, then:

[0073] - Z1 and / or Z2 independently of one another represent a linear, branched or cyclic C1-C50 group, each of which is saturated and aliphatic, or an aromatic C6-C18 group, wherein the aliphatic or aromatic group may optionally be interrupted by 1 to 10 heteroatoms selected from at least one nitrogen atom, one oxygen atom or one sulfur atom, and mixtures thereof; and wherein the aliphatic or aromatic group may optionally be partially or fully fluorinated;

[0074] - wherein Z1 and Z2 each have a linking group V connecting Z1 to Y1 and Z2 to Y2, wherein the linking groups V are selected from a single bond, a CC single bond, a C=C double bond, an amide group, an ester group, a carbonate group, a thioester group, an ether group, a urethane group, a thiourethane group or a urea group; - when Z1 and / or Z2 represent a reactive end group, Z1 and Z2 can independently of one another represent an alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide, e.g. propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane group;

[0075] - Q represents an organopolymer or an organooligomer having repeating units of linear, branched or cyclic groups which are saturated and aliphatic, or having repeating units of aromatic groups which are each linked to one another by carbonate, ester, ether, amide, urethane or urea groups or mixtures thereof;

[0076] - A represents a divalent organic group selected from an aliphatic or an aromatic group having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, wherein the aliphatic or aromatic group may optionally be interrupted by at least one heteroatom, such as a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom or a sulfur atom;

[0077] - r stands for zero or 1;

[0078] - m stands for an integer in the range from 0 to 200, preferably zero or 1;

[0079] - m' stands for an integer in the range from 0 to 200, preferably zero or 1;

[0080] - n is an integer in the range 0 to 200, preferably zero or 1, with (m + m' n) > 2.

[0081] Preferably used carbodiimides or polycarbodiimides are compounds of the structural formula (Ia) in which Z1 and Z2 independently of one another represent a reactive end group, particularly preferably a reactive end group selected from at least one alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide, e.g. propylepoxide or butylepoxide, or azacyclopropane group.

[0082] Such (poly)carbodiimide components are commercially available, for example from Stahl BV under the trade names Permutex, RelcaLink or Picassian XL and from Nisshinbo under the trade name Carbodilite with the serial numbers V-02, V-02-L2, SV-02, E-02, V-10, SW-12G, E-03A, E-04DG-T, E-05, V-04, V-02B, V-04PF and V-05.

[0083] According to a further preferred embodiment of the methods and kits according to the invention, the at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide is selected from compounds of the general structural formula (II) shown below:

[0084] wherein

[0085] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or an NH group,

[0086] - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon-based group which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms;

[0087] - n and z are integers in the range 1 to 20, with n+z > 2, and w is integers in the range 0 to 3;

[0088] - Li independently represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based C1-C18 group, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene group, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;

[0089] - E stands for a group selected from -OR 3 -O-, -SR 4 -S-, -R^NCR^-R^NCR^-R 5 -, wherein

[0090] - R 3 and R 4 independently represent a hydrocarbon-based group which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms;

[0091] - R 5 independently represents a covalent bond or a saturated divalent hydrocarbon-based group which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms;

[0092] - R 6 independently represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon-based group, which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms.

[0093] The term "hydrocarbon-based group" means a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched group containing 1 to 300 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 250 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 to 200 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is a saturated linear hydrocarbon group.

[0094] The hydrocarbon-based group may contain one or more cyclic groups. The hydrocarbon-based group may be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, in particular selected from O, S, or N.

[0095] The hydrocarbon-based group can be substituted with one or more cationic, anionic, or zwitterionic groups, for example, cationic ammonium groups or anionic carboxylate groups. The charge of the entire compound is neutralized by correspondingly oppositely charged anions or cations.

[0096] The term “heteroatom” means an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or a nitrogen atom, and, if the heteroatom is not incorporated into a chain, also a halogen atom, in particular Cl, F, Br and I. Preferred heteroatoms are selected from an oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atom.

[0097] Preferably, X1 and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom. Particularly preferably, X1 and X2 each represent an oxygen atom.

[0098] Preferred methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the substituents R 1 and R 2 are independently selected from dialkylamino alcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers in which the hydroxyl group is absent, and mixtures thereof.

[0099] Particularly preferred methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the substituents R 1 and R 2 are independently selected from groups (i) to (iv) as shown below:

[0100] (i) Groups according to the structural formula (III)

[0101] R 7 -OC(O)-C(R 8 )(H)- (III), wherein

[0102] R 7 represents a Ci-Cs-alkyl group and R 8represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-Cs-alkyl group; preferably R 7 for a methyl group and R 8 represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[0103] (ii) Groups according to the structural formula (IV)

[0104] R 9 -[O-CH2-CH(R 10 )] P - (IV), wherein

[0105] R 9 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group, R 10 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4-alkyl group and p represents an integer from 1 to 3; preferably R 9 represents a methyl, ethyl or butyl group, R 10 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group and p is 1;

[0106] (iii) Groups according to the structural formula (V)

[0107] (R 11 )2N-CH2-CH(R 12 )- (V), where

[0108] R 11 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group and R 12represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4-alkyl group; preferably R 11 represents a methyl, ethyl or butyl group and R 12 represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, (iv) groups according to the structural formula (VI)

[0109] R 13 -[O-CH2-CH(R 14 )] q - (VI), wherein

[0110] R 13 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group, R 14 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl group and q represents an integer from 4 to 30; preferably R 13 represents a methyl, ethyl or butyl group and R 14 represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group.

[0111] Preference is given to R 1 and R 2 independently of each other represent a group according to the structural formula (VI), wherein R 13represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group, preferably a Ci-C4 alkyl group, particularly preferably a methyl group, R 14 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom, and q is an integer from 4 to 30.

[0112] According to a further preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the substituents R 1 and R 2 are different from each other and one of the groups R 1 or R 2 for a group according to the structural formula (IV) described above and the other group R 1 or R 2 represents a group according to the structural formula (VI) described above. In this preferred embodiment of the invention, in group (IV) R 9 represents a methyl, ethyl or butyl group, R 10represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, and p is 1 . In this preferred embodiment of the invention, in the group (VI) R 13 represents a methyl, ethyl or butyl group, R 14 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group and q represents an integer from 4 to 30.

[0113] According to a further preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the substituents R 1 and R 2 are identical and represent a group according to the structural formula (VI) described above, wherein R 13 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group, preferably a Ci-C4 alkyl group, particularly preferably a methyl group, R 14 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q represents an integer from 4 to 30.

[0114] According to a further preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the index n stands for an integer in the range from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 20.

[0115] According to a further preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the index z stands for an integer in the range from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 20.

[0116] According to a further preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the index w stands for the value 1 and the sum n+z stands for an integer in the range from 4 to 10. According to a further preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the index w stands for the value 1 and the sum n+z stands for an integer in the range from 4 to 10.

[0117] According to a further preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the group Li is selected from a divalent aliphatic C1-C18 hydrocarbon-based group, in particular methylene, ethylene and propylene, further selected from a C3-C15 cycloalkylene group, such as in particular 4,4'-dicyclohexylenemethane, cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene and cyclohexylene, further selected from a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, such as imidazolene, pyrrolene and furanylene, or selected from a Ce-Ci4 arylene group, such as phen-1,3-dioctylcyclobutylene, tetramethylxylylene, isophorone, 1,5-naphthylene, 4,4'-diphenylmethylene, 4,4'- Diphenyldimethylmethylene and phenylene, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0118] According to a particularly preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the group Li is selected from a C3-C15 cycloalkylene group, a Ce-Cw arylene group, or mixtures thereof. Examples of particularly preferred ones are shown below with the structures (VII-1) to (

[0119] Li is preferably 4,4'-dicyclohexylenemethane according to the following formula (VII-7) (VII-7). According to a further preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the group E independently represents a group selected from:

[0120] - -OR 3 -O-; -SR 4 -S-; -R 5 -N(R 6 )-R 4 -N(R 6 )-R 5-; wherein

[0121] - R 3 and R 4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon-based group which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms,

[0122] - R 5 independently represents a covalent bond or a saturated divalent hydrocarbon-based group which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms; and

[0123] - R 6 independently represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon-based group, which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms.

[0124] According to a further particularly preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the groups R 3 and R 4are independently selected from a C6-C14 arylene group, preferably selected from a phenylene group, further selected from a C3-C15 cycloalkylene group, such as in particular cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, further selected from a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene group, such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0125] According to a further particularly preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the groups R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from a linear or branched Ci-Cis-alkylene group, such as methylene, butylene, propylene or ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms.

[0126] According to a further particularly preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the group R 5 does not represent a single bond, but is selected from a Ce-Ci4-arylene group, preferably selected from a phenylene group, further selected from a C3-Ci2-cycloalkylene group, such as in particular cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, further selected from a linear or branched Ci-Cis-alkylene group, such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] According to a further particularly preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the group R 6is selected from a C1-C14 arylene group, preferably selected from a phenylene group, further selected from a C3-C12 cycloalkylene group, such as in particular cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, further selected from a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene group, such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0128] According to a further particularly preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the substituent E represents a group -OR 3 -O- stands in the R 3is selected from a C1-C12-arylene group, preferably selected from a phenylene group, further selected from a C3-C12-cycloalkylene group, such as in particular cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, further selected from a linear or branched C1-C18-alkylene group, such as methylene, butylene, propylene or ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof. According to a further extremely preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that in the polycarbodiimide of the above structural formula (II) used therein, the substituent E represents a group -OR 3 -O- stands in the R 3 is selected from a linear or branched Ci-Cis-alkylene group, such as methylene, butylene, propylene or ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms.

[0129] According to a further particularly preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that the polycarbodiimide used therein was obtained by polycondensation of alpha-methylstyryl isocyanates, so that the polycarbodiimide contains alpha-methylstyrylene monomers according to the following structural formula (X):

[0130] (X), where

[0131] R independently of one another represents a group selected from a linear or branched Ci-C24 alkyl group, preferably a methyl, ethyl or butyl group, further selected from a cycloalkyl group having 3 to 24 carbon atoms and an aryl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer in the range from 2 to 100, preferably in the range from 2 to 50, particularly preferably in the range from 3 to 30 and extraordinarily preferably in the range from 5 to 10.

[0132] In this embodiment, the terms “cycloalkyl” group and “aryl” group correspond to the above definitions. According to a further particularly preferred alternative, processes and

[0133] Kits characterized in that the polycarbodiimide used therein is a tricarbodiimide according to the following structural formula (XI): (XI), wherein

[0134] R independently represents a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, ethyl or butyl group, furthermore represents a cycloalkyl group having 3 to 24 carbon atoms or an aryl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0135] In this embodiment, the terms “cycloalkyl” group and “aryl” group correspond to the above definitions.

[0136] According to a further particularly preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that the polycarbodiimide used therein is selected from at least one compound according to one of the following structural formulas (CDI-I) or (II), in which:

[0137] - X 1 and X 2 each represent an oxygen atom;

[0138] - R 1 and R 2 are independently selected from the group consisting of dialkylamino alcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids and monoalkyl ethers of polyalkylene glycol in which the hydroxyl group has been removed, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from monoalkyl ethers of polyalkylene glycol in which the hydroxyl group has been removed, particularly preferably selected from at least one component of the structural formula (VI) described above, wherein

[0139] - R 13represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group, preferably a Ci-C4 alkyl group, particularly preferably a methyl group,

[0140] - R 14 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom, and

[0141] - q is an integer in the range 1 to 30;

[0142] - n and z are integers in the range 1 to 20, with n+z > 2, and w is zero or 1;

[0143] - Li is selected from a divalent aliphatic C1-C18 hydrocarbon-based group, in particular methylene, ethylene and propylene, further selected from a C3-C15 cycloalkylene group, such as in particular 4,4'-dicyclohexylenemethane, cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene and cyclohexylene, further selected from a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, such as imidazolene, pyrrolene and furanylene, or selected from a Ce-Cw arylene group, such as phen-1,3-dioctylcyclobutylene, tetramethylxylylene, isophorone, 1,5-naphthylene, 4,4'-diphenylmethylene, 4,4'-diphenyldimethylmethylene and phenylene, and mixtures thereof, wherein Li is particularly preferably selected from a C3-Ci5-cycloalkylene group, such as in particular 4,4'-dicyclohexylenemethane, cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene and cyclohexylene,

[0144] - A is selected from a divalent aliphatic C1-C18 hydrocarbon-based group, in particular methylene, ethylene and propylene, further selected from a C3-C15 cycloalkylene group, such as in particular 4,4'-dicyclohexylenemethane, cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene and cyclohexylene, further selected from a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, such as imidazolene, pyrrolene and furanylene, or selected from a C1-C14 arylene group, such as phen-1,3-dioctylcyclobutylene, tetramethylxylylene, isophorone, 1,5-naphthylene, 4,4'-diphenylmethylene, 4,4'-diphenyldimethylmethylene and phenylene, and mixtures thereof, where L1 is particularly preferably selected from a C3-Ci5-cycloalkylene group, such as in particular 4,4'-dicyclohexylenemethane, cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene and cyclohexylene,

[0145] - E independent stands for a group selected from:

[0146] -OR 3 -O-; -SR 4 -S-; -R 5 -N(R 6)-R 4 -N(R 6 )-R 5 -; wherein

[0147] - R 3 and R 4 independently of one another represent a divalent C1-C14 arylene group, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene group, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof;

[0148] - R 5 is selected from a divalent C1-C14 arylene group, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene group, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and - R 6 is selected from a divalent C1-C14 arylene group, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene group, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0149] According to a further particularly preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that the polycarbodiimide used therein is selected from at least one compound according to the above structural formula (II), in which:

[0150] - X 1 and X 2 each represent an oxygen atom;

[0151] - R 1 and R 2 are independently selected from the group consisting of dialkylamino alcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids and monoalkyl ethers of polyalkylene glycol in which the hydroxyl group has been removed, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from monoalkyl ethers of polyalkylene glycol in which the hydroxyl group has been removed;

[0152] - n and z are integers in the range 1 to 20, with n+z > 2, and w is zero or 1;

[0153] - Li is selected from a divalent aliphatic C1-C18 hydrocarbon-based group, in particular methylene, ethylene and propylene, further selected from a C3-C15 cycloalkylene group, such as in particular 4,4'-dicyclohexylenemethane, cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene and cyclohexylene, further selected from a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, such as imidazolene, pyrrolene and furanylene, or selected from a C6-C14 arylene group, such as phen-1,3-dioctylcyclobutylene, tetramethylxylylene, isophorone, 1,5-naphthylene, 4,4'-diphenylmethylene, 4,4'-diphenyldimethylmethylene and phenylene, and mixtures thereof, wherein Li is particularly preferably selected from a C3-Ci5-cycloalkylene group, such as in particular 4,4'-dicyclohexylenemethane, cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene and cyclohexylene,

[0154] - E independent stands for a group selected from:

[0155] -OR 3 -O-; -SR 4 -S-; -R 5 -N(R6 )-R 4 -N(R 6 )-R 5 -; wherein

[0156] - R 3 and R 4 independently of one another represent a divalent C1-C14 arylene group, a divalent C3-C12 cycloalkylene group, a divalent linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof;

[0157] - R 5 is selected from a divalent C1-C14 arylene group, a divalent C3-C12 cycloalkylene group, a divalent linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and

[0158] - R 6 is selected from a divalent C1-C14 arylene group, a divalent C3-C12 cycloalkylene group, a divalent linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0159] According to a further particularly preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that the polycarbodiimide used therein is selected from at least one compound according to the above structural formula (II), in which:

[0160] - X 1 and X 2 each represent an oxygen atom; - R 1 and R 2 are independently selected from the group consisting of monoalkyl ethers of polyalkylene glycol in which the hydroxyl group has been removed;

[0161] - n and z are integers in the range 1 to 20, with n+z > 2, and w is zero or 1;

[0162] - Li represents a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene group, such as in particular 4,4'-dicyclohexylenemethane, cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene and cyclohexylene;

[0163] - E independent stands for a group selected from:

[0164] -OR 3 -O-; -SR4 -S-; -R 5 -N(R 6 )-R 4 -N(R 6 )-R 5 -; wherein

[0165] - R 3 and R 4 independently of one another represent a divalent C1-C14 arylene group, a divalent C3-C12 cycloalkylene group, a divalent linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof;

[0166] - R 5 is selected from a divalent C1-C14 arylene group, a divalent C3-C12 cycloalkylene group, a divalent linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and

[0167] - R 6is selected from a divalent C1-C14 arylene group, a divalent C3-C12 cycloalkylene group, a divalent linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0168] According to a further particularly preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that the polycarbodiimide used therein is selected from at least one compound according to the above structural formula (II), in which:

[0169] - X 1 and X 2 each represent an oxygen atom;

[0170] - R 1 and R 2 are independently selected from at least one component of the structural formula (VI),

[0171] R 13 -[O-CH2-CH(R 14 )] q - (VI), wherein

[0172] - R 13represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group, preferably a Ci-C4 alkyl group, particularly preferably a methyl group,

[0173] - R 14 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom, and

[0174] - q is an integer in the range 1 to 30;

[0175] - n and z are integers in the range 1 to 20, with n+z > 2, and w is zero or 1;

[0176] - Li represents a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene group, such as in particular 4,4'-dicyclohexylenemethane, cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene and cyclohexylene; and

[0177] - E for a group -OR 3 -O- stands, in which

[0178] R 3represents a divalent C1-C14 arylene group, a divalent C3-C12 cycloalkylene group, a divalent linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene group, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof. According to a further particularly preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that the polycarbodiimide used therein is selected from at least one compound according to the above structural formula (II), wherein:

[0179] - X 1 and X 2 each represent an oxygen atom;

[0180] - R 1 and R 2 are independently selected from at least one component of the structural formula (VI),

[0181] R 13 -[O-CH2-CH(R 14 )] q - (VI), wherein

[0182] - R 13represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group, preferably a Ci-C4 alkyl group, particularly preferably a methyl group,

[0183] - R 14 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom, and

[0184] - q is an integer in the range 1 to 30;

[0185] - n and z represent an integer in the range from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 20, with n+z in the range from 4 to 10, and w represents the number zero or 1;

[0186] - Li represents a C3-Ci5-cycloalkylene group, such as in particular 4,4'-dicyclohexylenemethane, cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene and cyclohexylene, particularly preferably; and

[0187] - E for a group -OR 3 -O- stands, in which

[0188] R 3represents a divalent linear or branched Ci-Cis-alkylene group which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, preferably methylene, propylene, butylene or ethylene.

[0189] According to a further particularly preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that the polycarbodiimide (II-pref) used therein is selected from at least one compound according to the above structural formula (II), wherein:

[0190] - X 1 and X 2 each represent an oxygen atom;

[0191] - R 1 and R 2 each represent a component of the structural formula (VI),

[0192] R 13 -[O-CH2-CH(R 14 )] q - (VI), wherein

[0193] - R 13 represents a methyl group,

[0194] - R 14 stands for a hydrogen atom, and

[0195] - q is an integer in the range 1 to 4;

[0196] - n stands for an integer in the range 4 to 7, and w stands for the number 0;

[0197] - Li stands for a 4,4'-dicyclohexylenemethane group.

[0198] According to a further particularly preferred alternative, methods and kits according to the invention are characterized in that the polycarbodiimide used therein is selected from at least one compound according to the above structural formula (XII):

[0199] wherein

[0200] - Li is 4,4'-dicyclohexylenemethane; and

[0201] - n and z are an integer in the range from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 20, with n+z in the range from 4 to 10;

[0202] - E for a group -OR 3 -O- stands, in which

[0203] R 3represents a divalent linear or branched Ci-Cis-alkylene group which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, preferably methylene, propylene, butylene or ethylene;

[0204] - r and s represent an integer in the range 4 to 30.

[0205] Methods and kits for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers preferred according to the invention are characterized in that - apart from an optional substitution of the at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide used according to the invention with at least one acrylate- or methacrylate-based monomer - no additional polymer is contained which comprises acrylic acid, acrylic acid amides, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid, methacrylic acid amides and / or methacrylic acid esters as monomer.

[0206] Compositions (CDI) preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, 11-99% by weight, preferably 30-97% by weight, particularly preferably 75-95% by weight of water.

[0207] The composition (CDI) used according to the invention, which contains at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide, can be designed in many dosage forms.

[0208] In a first preferred embodiment, the composition (CDI) used according to the invention is a flowable composition that can be applied directly to the keratin fibers. However, the flowable composition (CDI) can also first be mixed with another composition and then applied to the keratin fibers. For the two aforementioned embodiments, it is according to the invention if the composition (CDI) and also its mixture with another treatment agent for keratin fibers each have a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.0, preferably 8.5 to 10.5, particularly preferably 9.0 to 10.2, in each case measured at 20°C. Therefore, compositions (CDI) preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one alkalizing agent. Further compositions (CDI) preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, 11 - 99 wt.-%, preferably 30 - 97 wt.%, particularly preferably 75 - 95 wt.% water.

[0209] A composition (CDI) or a composition (pre-CDI) preferably used according to the invention containing at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide, furthermore at least one alkalizing agent, which further contains, based on its weight, 11-99 wt.%, preferably 30-97 wt.%, particularly preferably 75-95 wt.% water and has a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.0, preferably 8.5 to 10.5, particularly preferably 9.0 to 10.2, in each case measured at 20°C, can be used in this form as an agent for restructuring damaged keratin fibers. Such an agent for restructuring damaged keratin fibers can be sold in a kit with an aqueous composition (A) which contains an inorganic acid but no compounds having one or more carboxyl groups and has an acidic pH.Such a composition (CDI) or (pre-CDI) for restructuring damaged keratin fibers is preferably characterized in that it contains, in each case based on its weight, at least one carbodiimide or at least one polycarbodiimide in a total amount of 0.1-20 wt.%, preferably 0.5-10 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0-5.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 2.0-4.0 wt.%. Compositions (CDI) containing carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide in the lower claimed concentration range, especially in the range of 0.1-5 wt.%, are preferably applied undiluted to the keratin fibers. Since carbodiimides and polycarbodiimides are more stable in the alkaline range, especially in the pH range from 8.0 to 11.0, an alkaline tinting agent containing at least one direct dye is a suitable dosage form for an alkaline keratin treatment agent in addition to the pure restructuring agent.Further compositions (CDI) preferably used according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one direct dye. Compositions (pre-CDI) containing carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide in the upper claimed concentration range, especially in the range of > 5 - 20 wt. %, based on the weight of the composition (pre-CDI), are preferably suitable for application to the keratin fibers only after dilution. Dilution can be achieved, in particular, by adding the composition (pre-CDI) to a keratin treatment agent before the latter is applied to the keratin fibers. Suitable keratin treatment agents, which are mixed with a composition (pre-CDI) used according to the invention, usually immediately before application to the keratin fibers, include bleaching powders, coloring powders, bleaching pastes, bleaching creams, coloring creams, but also conditioners, hair treatments, and shampoos.

[0210] Bleaching powders, coloring powders, bleaching pastes, bleaching creams, and coloring creams typically have an alkaline pH value from the outset. Therefore, in another preferred embodiment of the invention, they can also contain at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide and thus represent a composition used according to the invention (CDI). To achieve the desired lightening or coloring effect, the aforementioned keratin treatment agents, i.e., bleaching powders, coloring powders, bleaching pastes, bleaching creams, or coloring creams, must be mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-containing solution immediately before or immediately after application to the keratin fibers.

[0211] Such an agent for lightening or coloring keratin fibers and simultaneously restructuring the damaged keratin fibers or preventing keratin damage can be sold as a multi-part kit and preferably comprises a composition (CDI) or (pre-CDI), furthermore an agent selected from a bleaching powder, a coloring powder, a bleaching paste, a bleaching cream and a coloring cream, furthermore an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-containing solution and furthermore - for aftertreatment - an aqueous composition (A) which contains an inorganic acid but no compounds with one or more carboxyl groups and has an acidic pH.

[0212] A further preferred subject matter of the invention is a kit K1 comprising a bleaching powder containing at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide, physically separated therefrom, an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-containing solution, and furthermore—for aftertreatment—an aqueous composition (A) which contains an inorganic acid but no compounds with one or more carboxyl groups and has an acidic pH. A further preferred subject matter of the invention is a method for lightening keratin fibers and simultaneously restructuring the damaged keratin fibers or preventing keratin damage using the aforementioned kit K1.

[0213] In a further preferred embodiment of the aforementioned kit K1 and the method, the bleaching powder contains, in addition to the at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide, at least one alkalizing agent (kit K2). Another preferred subject of the invention is a method for lightening keratin fibers and simultaneously restructuring the damaged keratin fibers or preventing keratin damage using the aforementioned kit K2.

[0214] In a further preferred embodiment of the aforementioned kit K1 and the method, the kit comprises, in addition to the bleaching powder with the at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide and the acid composition (A), physically separated therefrom, a bleaching cream which contains water and at least one alkalizing agent and has a pH in the range of 8.0 to 11.0, measured at 20°C (kit K3).

[0215] The bleaching powder of Kit K3 may contain at least one alkalizing agent (Kit 3-A). However, the bleaching powder of Kit 3 may also contain no alkalizing agent (Kit 3-B). The bleaching cream of Kit K3 may contain at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide (Kit 3-C).

[0216] A further preferred subject of the invention is a method for lightening keratin fibers and simultaneous restructuring of the damaged keratin fibers or prevention of keratin damage using one of the aforementioned kits K3-A, K3-B or K3-C.

[0217] Another preferred subject of the invention is a kit comprising a bleaching paste containing a) at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide, b) at least one persalt, c) at least one alkalizing agent, and d) at least one oil, furthermore an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-containing solution, and furthermore - for aftertreatment - an aqueous composition (A) containing an inorganic acid but no compounds with one or more carboxyl groups and having an acidic pH (Kit 4). Another preferred subject of the invention is a method for lightening keratin fibers and simultaneously restructuring the damaged keratin fibers or preventing keratin damage using the aforementioned Kit K4.A further preferred subject of the invention is a kit comprising a bleaching cream which contains a) at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide, b) at least one alkalizing agent and c) water and has a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.0, measured at 20°C, physically separated therefrom, an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-containing solution and furthermore - for aftertreatment - an aqueous composition (A) which contains an inorganic acid but no compounds with one or more carboxyl groups and has an acidic pH (Kit K5-A). As a further kit component, a bleaching powder may be present which contains at least one persalt (Kit K5-B) and optionally at least one alkalizing agent (Kit K5-C) and / or at least one (poly)carbodiimide (Kits K5-D, K5-E).A further preferred subject matter of the invention is a method for lightening keratin fibers and simultaneous restructuring of the damaged keratin fibers or prevention of keratin damage using one of the aforementioned kits K5-A to K5-E.

[0218] A further preferred subject matter of the invention is a kit comprising a coloring cream which contains a) at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide, b) at least one alkalizing agent, c) at least one dye selected from oxidation dye precursors and direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, and d) water and has a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.0, measured at 20°C, physically separated therefrom, an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-containing solution and furthermore - for aftertreatment - an aqueous composition (A) which contains an inorganic acid but no compounds with one or more carboxyl groups and has an acidic pH (kit K6). A further preferred subject matter of the invention is a method for the oxidative coloring of keratin fibers and simultaneous restructuring of the damaged keratin fibers or prevention of keratin damage using the aforementioned kit K6.

[0219] A further preferred subject matter of the invention is a kit comprising a coloring powder containing a) at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide, b) at least one alkalizing agent, and c) at least one dye selected from oxidation dye precursors and direct dyes, as well as mixtures thereof, physically separated therefrom, an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-containing solution, and furthermore—for post-treatment—an aqueous composition (A) containing an inorganic acid but no compounds with one or more carboxyl groups and having an acidic pH (Kit K7). A further preferred subject matter of the invention is a method for the oxidative coloring of keratin fibers and simultaneous restructuring of the damaged keratin fibers or prevention of keratin damage using the aforementioned Kit K7.

[0220] The time specification “immediately before” means a period of time from 1 second to a maximum of 30 minutes, preferably from 1 to 10 minutes before application to the keratin fibers.

[0221] The time specification “immediately after” means a period of time from 1 second to a maximum of 1 hour, preferably from 1 to 10 minutes after application to the keratin fibers.

[0222] A further preferred subject matter of the invention is a kit comprising a composition (CDI) or (pre-CDI) containing at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide, furthermore at least one alkalizing agent, which furthermore contains, based on its weight, 11-99% by weight, preferably 30-97% by weight, particularly preferably 75-95% by weight of water and has a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.0, preferably 8.5 to 10.5, particularly preferably 9.0 to 10.2, in each case measured at 20°C, physically separate therefrom furthermore a hair conditioner and furthermore - for aftertreatment - an aqueous composition (A) which contains an inorganic acid but no compounds having one or more carboxyl groups and has an acidic pH (kit K8).A further preferred subject of the invention is a method for conditioning keratin fibers and simultaneous restructuring of the damaged keratin fibers or prevention of keratin damage using the aforementioned kit K8.

[0223] A further preferred subject matter of the invention is a kit comprising a composition (CDI) containing at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide, furthermore at least one alkalizing agent, which furthermore contains, based on its weight, 11-99% by weight, preferably 30-97% by weight, particularly preferably 75-95% by weight of water and has a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.0, preferably 8.5 to 10.5, particularly preferably 9.0 to 10.2, in each case measured at 20°C, physically separated therefrom furthermore a shampoo and furthermore - for aftertreatment - an aqueous composition (A) which contains an inorganic acid but no compounds having one or more carboxyl groups and has an acidic pH (kit K9).A further preferred subject matter of the invention is a method for cleaning keratin fibers and simultaneously restructuring the damaged keratin fibers or preventing keratin damage using the aforementioned kit K9. A further preferred subject matter of the invention is a kit comprising a composition (pre-CDI) which, based on its weight, contains at least one carbodiimide or at least one polycarbodiimide in a total amount of 0.5-20 wt. %, preferably 1-15 wt. %, particularly preferably 3-12 wt. %, furthermore water and at least one alkalizing agent and has a pH in the range of 8.0 to 11.0, preferably 8.5 to 10.5, particularly preferably 9.0 to 10.2, in each case measured at 20°C, and, physically separate therefrom for aftertreatment, an aqueous composition (A) which contains an inorganic acid but no compounds having one or more carboxyl groups and has an acidic pH (kit K10).A further preferred subject of the invention is a method for conditioning keratin fibers and simultaneous restructuring of the damaged keratin fibers or prevention of keratin damage using the aforementioned kit K10.

[0224] A further preferred subject matter of the invention is a kit comprising a composition (pre-CDI) which, based on its weight, contains at least one carbodiimide or at least one polycarbodiimide in a total amount of 0.5-20 wt.%, preferably 1-15 wt.%, particularly preferably 3-12 wt.%, furthermore water and at least one alkalizing agent and has a pH in the range of 8.0 to 11.0, preferably 8.5 to 10.5, particularly preferably 9.0 to 10.2, in each case measured at 20°C and, physically separated therefrom, a bleaching powder or an alkalizing cream which optionally contains at least one carbodiimide or at least one polycarbodiimide, furthermore an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-containing solution and furthermore - for aftertreatment - an aqueous composition (A) which contains an inorganic acid, but no compounds having one or more carboxyl groups and has an acidic pH (kits K11-A to K11-D).A further preferred subject matter of the invention is a method for conditioning keratin fibers and simultaneous restructuring of the damaged keratin fibers or prevention of keratin damage using one of the aforementioned kits K11-A to K11-D.

[0225] A further preferred subject matter of the invention is a kit comprising a composition (pre-CDI) which, based on its weight, contains at least one carbodiimide or at least one polycarbodiimide in a total amount of 0.5-20 wt.%, preferably 1-15 wt.%, particularly preferably 3-12 wt.%, furthermore water and at least one alkalizing agent and has a pH in the range of 8.0 to 11.0, preferably 8.5 to 10.5, particularly preferably 9.0 to 10.2, in each case measured at 20°C and, physically separated therefrom, a coloring cream or a coloring powder which optionally contains at least one carbodiimide or at least one polycarbodiimide, furthermore an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-containing solution and furthermore - for aftertreatment - an aqueous composition (A) which contains an inorganic acid but no compounds having one or more carboxyl groups and has an acidic pH (kit K12).A further preferred subject matter of the invention is a method for conditioning keratin fibers and simultaneous restructuring of the damaged keratin fibers or prevention of keratin damage using the aforementioned kit K12.

[0226] The following are preferred ingredients used in methods and kits according to the invention and preferred methods and kits for conditioning treatment of keratin fibers.

[0227] Typically, oxidative color change agents have an alkaline pH value to accelerate the reaction during oxidative application, which is adjusted with alkalizing agents such as alkanolamines, ammonia or inorganic bases.

[0228] The compositions (CDI) used according to the invention also preferably contain at least one alkalizing agent. Compositions (CDI) used particularly preferably according to the invention contain at least one alkalizing agent in an amount such that the composition (CDI) has a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.0, preferably 8.5 to 10.5, particularly preferably 9.0 to 10.2, in each case measured at 20°C.

[0229] The alkalizing agents preferably suitable for adjusting the pH of the agents used in the methods and kits according to the invention are selected from ammonia, alkanolamines, alkali hydroxides, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal disilicates, alkali phosphates and dialkali monohydrogen phosphates and mixtures of these substances.

[0230] Particularly preferred alkalizing agents are selected from alkanolamines, alkali hydroxides, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal disilicates, alkali phosphates, and dialkali monohydrogen phosphates, as well as mixtures of these substances. The alkali metal ions in the aforementioned alkalizing salts are preferably lithium, sodium, or potassium, especially sodium or potassium.

[0231] The alkali hydroxides usable as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, as well as mixtures thereof. Potassium hydroxide is particularly preferred according to the invention.

[0232] The alkanolamines which can be used as alkalizing agents preferably have 2 to 9 carbon atoms in the molecule and are particularly preferably selected from primary amines having a C2-C6 alkyl parent structure which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof. Alkanolamines which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol; 2-aminoethan-1-ol is extremely preferred.However, secondary amines such as diisopropanolamine (1,1'-iminodipropan-2-ol) are also suitable alkalizing agents according to the invention. Agents used in particularly preferred methods and kits according to the invention contain 2-aminoethanol-1-ol, potassium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof as alkalizing agents.

[0233] Agents used in particularly preferred methods and kits according to the invention are characterized by containing at least one alkalizing agent in a total amount of 0.5-10 wt.%, preferably 0.7-7 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0-5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1.2-3 wt.%, based in each case on the weight of the agent. This can be the agent (CDI), synonymously the composition (CDI), or an agent for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers.

[0234] Persalts preferably used according to the invention are selected from sodium percarbonates and inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid and mixtures thereof.

[0235] Sodium percarbonates are sodium carbonate-hydrogen peroxide complexes. Commercially available sodium percarbonate has an average composition of 2 Na2CO3 • 3 H2O2. Sodium percarbonate is a white, water-soluble powder that readily decomposes into sodium carbonate and "active" oxygen, which has a bleaching and oxidizing effect.

[0236] Peroxosulfuric acids include peroxodisulfuric acid and peroxomonosulfuric acid (Caro's acid).

[0237] Preferably, the at least one inorganic salt of a peroxosulfuric acid is selected from ammonium peroxodisulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal peroxomonosulfates, and alkali metal hydrogen peroxomonosulfates. Ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, and potassium hydrogen peroxomonosulfate are particularly preferred. Furthermore, it has proven particularly preferred in the work on the present invention if the bleaching powder used according to the invention contains at least two different peroxodisulfates. Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are combinations of ammonium peroxodisulfate and potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate.

[0238] Preferred bleaching powders used according to the invention contain at least one oxidizing agent selected from sodium percarbonates and inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 5-85% by weight, preferably 10-75% by weight, particularly preferably 15-65% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 20-55% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the bleaching powder.

[0239] In a preferred embodiment, the agent preferably used according to the invention for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers contains at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type.

[0240] Oxidation dye precursors can be divided into two categories based on their reactivity, so-called developer components and coupler components.

[0241] Coupler components do not produce significant coloration on their own during oxidative dyeing, but always require the presence of developer components. Developer components can form the actual dye on their own. The developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. However, for substances containing amino groups, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, particularly in the form of hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, hydrogen sulfates, or sulfates.

[0242] Particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed by p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropan-2-ol, bis-(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 1,3-bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)propan-2-ol, N,N'-Bis-(4-amino-phenyl)-1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(1 ,2-dihydroxyethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-(diethylaminomethyl)phenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2, 4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine,the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds as well as mixtures of these developer components and developer component salts.

[0243] Very particularly preferred developer components are selected from 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, p-tolylenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, and mixtures of these compounds, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts. Exceptionally preferred are 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, p-tolylenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, and mixtures of these compounds, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0244] Preferably, at least one developer component or its salt is present in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative color-changing agent (M1) used according to the invention.

[0245] Preferably, at least one coupler component or its salt is present in a total amount of 0.001 to 4 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.1 to 1 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative color-changing agent (M1) used according to the invention.

[0246] The total amount of oxidation dye precursors or salts thereof in the agent (M1) according to the invention is preferably 0.011 to 9 wt.%, preferably 0.11 to 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.6 to 3.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative color-changing agent (M1) used according to the invention.

[0247] Coupler components within the meaning of the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This results in the formation of a covalent bond between the coupler and developer components. Couplers are preferably cyclic compounds that carry at least two groups on the cycle, selected from (i) optionally substituted amino groups and / or (ii) hydroxyl groups. If the cyclic compound is a six-membered ring (preferably aromatic), said groups are preferably located in the ortho or meta position to one another.

[0248] Preferred oxidative color-changing agents used according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type is selected from one of the following classes:

[0249] - 3-aminophenol (m-aminophenol) and / or its derivatives,

[0250] - 3-aminoaniline (m-diaminobenzene) and / or its derivatives,

[0251] - 2-aminoaniline (1,2-diaminobenzene; o-diaminobenzene) and / or its derivatives,

[0252] - 2-aminophenol (o-aminophenol) and / or its derivatives,

[0253] - naphthalene derivatives containing at least one hydroxy group,

[0254] - Di- or trihydroxybenzene and / or their derivatives,

[0255] - pyridine derivatives,

[0256] - pyrimidine derivatives,

[0257] - monohydroxyindole derivatives and / or monoaminoindole derivatives,

[0258] - monohydroxyindoline derivatives and / or monoaminoindoline derivatives,

[0259] - Pyrazolone derivatives, such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,

[0260] - Morpholine derivatives, such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine,

[0261] - Quinoxaline derivatives, such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline.

[0262] Mixtures of two or more compounds from one or more of these classes are also preferred according to the invention in this embodiment.

[0263] Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte zusätzliche Kupplerkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus 3- Aminophenol, 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, 3-Amino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 2-Hydroxy-4-aminophen- oxyethanol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-Dichlor- 3-aminophenol, 2-Aminophenol, 3-Phenylendiamin, 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1 ,3-Bis(2,4- diaminophenoxy)propan, 1-beta-Hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylendioxyanilin, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2’- hydroxyethylamino)benzol (= 2-Amino-4-Hydroxyethylaminoanisol), 1 ,3-Bis (2,4-diaminophe- nyl)propan, 2, 6-Bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1 -methylbenzol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-meth- oxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}- amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5-dimethylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-[3-Morpholin-4- ylphenyl)amino]ethanol, 3-Amino-4-(2-methoxyethoxy)-5-methylphenylamin, 1 -Amino-3-bis-(2- hydroxyethyl)aminobenzol, Resorcin, 2-Methylresorcin,4-chlororesorcinol, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline or mixtures of these compounds or the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.

[0264] Particularly preferred are 3-aminophenol, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 1-naphthol, and 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures of the aforementioned components. It may be preferable to avoid resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives.

[0265] In order to achieve a balanced and subtle nuance formation or to mattify undesirable residual color impressions caused by melanin degradation products, in particular in the reddish or bluish range, it is preferred according to the invention if further color-imparting components are contained in the oxidative color-changing agent used according to the invention.

[0266] In a further embodiment, the oxidative color-changing agents used according to the invention can therefore additionally contain at least one direct dye. In a further embodiment, non-oxidative color-changing agents used according to the invention can also additionally contain at least one direct dye. These are dyes that are absorbed directly into the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color. Direct dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, or indophenols.

[0267] Direct dyes can be anionic, cationic, or non-ionic. The direct dyes are preferably present in an amount of 0.001 to 2% by weight, based on the weight of the oxidative or non-oxidative color-changing agent used in the invention.

[0268] Preferred anionic direct dyes are the compounds known under the international names or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57:1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Bromophenol Blue and Tetrabromophenol Blue. Preferred cationic direct dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, for example Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, cationic anthraquinone dyes, such as HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B) and direct dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.The cationic direct dyes marketed under the trademark Arianor are also preferred cationic direct dyes according to the invention. Particularly suitable nonionic direct dyes are nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes. Preferred nonionic direct dyes are those known under the international designations "Arianor" and "Arianor" respectively.Handelsnamen HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1 , Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1 , HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 1 1 , HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1 1 , HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 bekannten Verbindungen, sowie 1 ,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol, 2-Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1 ,4-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)- amino-2-nitrobenzol, 3-Nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitro- phenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1 -methylbenzol, 1 -Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-5- chlor-2-nitrobenzol, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzol, 2-[(4-Amino-2- nitrophenyl)amino]-benzoesäure, 6-N itro-1 ,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin, 2-Hydroxy-1 ,4-naphthochi- non, Pikraminsäure und deren Salze, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoe- säure und 2-Chlor-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.According to the invention, at least one cationic direct dye selected from Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B), Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 and mixtures thereof is very particularly preferably contained.

[0269] A hair conditioner preferably used according to the invention contains at least one cationic component selected from cationic surfactants and cationic polymers, as well as mixtures thereof, optionally in combination with at least one fatty component selected from oils, linear, saturated fatty alcohols having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, glycerol trifatty acid esters with a melting point above 28°C, and waxes, as well as mixtures of these fatty components. These hair conditioners are usually water-containing, usually with at least 50% water by weight, but can also be anhydrous and then preferably contain at least one polyol that is liquid at 25°C, such as 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, or dipropylene glycol.

[0270] A shampoo preferably used according to the invention contains water and at least one anionic surfactant, optionally in combination with at least one nonionic surfactant and / or with at least one amphoteric surfactant.

[0271] Table 1 below lists possible kits according to the invention for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair:

[0272] Table 1

[0273] Methods and kits for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the composition (CDI), based on its weight, contains 11-99% by weight, preferably 30-97% by weight, particularly preferably 75-95% by weight of water.

[0274] In a further embodiment of the invention, preferred methods and kits for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers are characterized in that the composition (CDI) contains at least one alkalizing agent.

[0275] In a further embodiment of the invention, preferred methods and kits for the conditioning treatment of keratinic fibers are characterized in that the composition (CDI), based on its weight, contains at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide in a total amount of 0.1 - 20 wt.%, preferably 0.5 - 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 - 5.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 2.0 - 4.0 wt.%.

[0276] In a further embodiment of the invention, preferred methods and kits for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers are characterized in that the composition (CDI) has a pH in the range of 8.0 to 11.0, preferably 8.5 to 10.5, particularly preferably 9.0 to 10.2, in each case measured at 20°C.

[0277] In a further embodiment of the invention, preferred methods and kits for the conditioning treatment of keratinic fibers are characterized in that the composition (CDI) contains at least one oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen, which is preferably selected from hydrogen peroxide, persulfates, percarbamide and sodium percarbonate and mixtures thereof, with hydrogen peroxide, persulfates and hydrogen peroxide-persulfate mixtures being particularly preferred.

[0278] In another embodiment of the invention, preferred methods and kits for conditioning treatment of keratin fibers are characterized in that the composition (CDI) does not contain an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

[0279] In a further embodiment of the invention, preferred methods and kits for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers are characterized in that the composition (CDI) contains at least one direct dye.

[0280] With the method according to the invention, in which an alkaline composition (CDI) containing at least one carbodiimide or one polycarbodiimide is first applied to the keratin fibers, and the fibers thus treated with (CDI) are treated, without a rinsing step, with an acidic composition (A) containing at least one inorganic acid but no compounds containing one or more carboxyl groups, crosslinking of the keratin fibers is achieved.

[0281] It has been shown that the alkaline composition (CDI) should not be rinsed off the keratin fibers before its cross-linking is initiated on the keratin fibers by adding an inorganic acid in the absence of compounds containing one or more carboxyl groups. In alkaline media, the carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide does not bind strongly to the keratin fibers. In this uncross-linked state, the carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide does not bind as well to the keratin fibers and can therefore be easily rinsed off. It is therefore essential to the invention that the alkaline composition (CDI) is not rinsed off the keratin fibers before the acidic composition (A) is applied.

[0282] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the keratin fibers can be dried after the application of the composition (CDI) and before the application of the composition (A). Drying can be by air drying, drying with a hairdryer or a hairdryer hood, but also by patting or wringing the keratin fibers.

[0283] According to the invention, composition (A) contains an inorganic acid and has an acidic pH, wherein the pH is preferably 0.2-6.5, more preferably 2.0-6.0, particularly preferably 3.0-5.5, extraordinarily preferably 4.0-5.0, further extraordinarily preferably 4.3-4.6, in each case measured at 20°C. Furthermore, it is essential to the invention that composition (A) does not contain any compounds having one or more carboxyl groups.

[0284] In a further embodiment of the invention, preferred methods and kits for the conditioning treatment of keratinic fibers are characterized in that the inorganic acid contained in the composition (A) is selected from phosphoric acid, dihydrogen phosphate salts, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, hydrogen sulfate salts, carbonic acid, nitric acid and mixtures thereof.

[0285] In a further embodiment of the invention, preferred methods and kits for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers are characterized in that the composition (A) contains an inorganic buffer system selected from phosphoric acid / dihydrogen phosphate salt and sulfuric acid / hydrogen sulfate salt.

[0286] In a further embodiment of the invention, preferred methods and kits for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers are characterized in that the composition (CDI) contains an inorganic buffer system selected from ammonia / ammonium salt. In a further embodiment of the invention, preferred methods and kits for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers are characterized in that the composition (CDI) contains an inorganic buffer system selected from ammonia / ammonium chloride.

[0287] In a further embodiment of the invention, preferred methods and kits for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers are characterized in that an inorganic buffer system is contained in the composition (CDI) and in the composition (A), wherein the molar ratio of buffer system in (A) to buffer system in (CDI) is greater than 1 and less than 10, preferably in the range from 2 to 8, particularly preferably in the range from 5 to 7.In a further embodiment of the invention, preferred methods and kits for the conditioning treatment of keratinic fibers are characterized in that the composition (CDI) contains an inorganic buffer system selected from ammonia / ammonium salt, and the composition (A) contains an inorganic buffer system selected from phosphoric acid / dihydrogen phosphate salt, wherein the molar ratio of buffer system in (A) to buffer system in (CDI) is greater than 1 and less than 10, preferably in the range from 2 to 8, particularly preferably in the range from 5 to 7.In a further embodiment of the invention, preferred kits for the conditioning treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, are characterized in that they comprise at least the following compartments, which are physically separate from one another: i) a composition (CDI-x) which contains at least one carbodiimide or at least one polycarbodiimide in a cosmetic carrier and which is designed as described for the composition (CDI) in any one of claims 1-8, and ii) an aqueous composition (A) which contains an inorganic acid but no compounds having one or more carboxyl groups and has an acidic pH, measured at 20°C, and which is designed as described in any one of claims 1 or 9.

[0288] The subject matter of the present invention is characterized by the following points:

[0289] 1. A method for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the following process steps in the specified order: a) applying a composition (CDI) containing at least one carbodiimide or at least one polycarbodiimide in an aqueous cosmetic carrier and having a pH in the range of 8.0 to 11.0, measured at 20°C, to the keratin fibers, b) leaving the composition (CDI) on the keratin fibers for a time of 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 1 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 5 to 30 minutes, extraordinarily preferably 10 to 15 minutes, without rinsing the composition (CDI), c) optionally drying the keratin fibers, d) applying an aqueous composition (A) to the keratin fibers treated with the composition (CDI) and optionally dried, wherein the composition (A) contains an inorganic acid and has an acidic pH,wherein the pH is preferably 0.2-6.5, more preferably 2.0-6.0, particularly preferably 3.0-5.5, extraordinarily preferably 4.0-5.0, further extraordinarily preferably 4.3-4.6, in each case measured at 20°C, and wherein the composition (A) does not contain any compounds having one or more carboxyl groups, e) leaving to act for a time of 10 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 30 minutes, particularly preferably 1 to 20 minutes, extraordinarily preferably 2 to 15 minutes, further extraordinarily preferably 5 to 10 minutes, f) rinsing the keratin fibers with water, g) optionally drying the keratin fibers.

[0290] 2. Process for conditioning treatment according to point 1, characterized in that the at least one polycarbodiimide is selected from compounds of the structural formula (CDI-I) wherein

[0291] X1 and X2 independently of one another represent an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or an NH group which is selected from a hydrocarbon group, preferably from at least one alkyl group which can optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, further selected from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acryloalkylsilyl, methacryloalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydealkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acryloalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide, e.g. propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane groups and mixtures thereof;

[0292] - n is an integer in the range from 1 to 200, preferably 2 to 200, particularly preferably 3 to 150, further particularly preferably 4 to 100, further particularly preferably 4 to 50, further particularly preferably 4 to 10, extremely preferably 6 to 7; and

[0293] - A represents a divalent group selected from the substituents shown below:

[0294]

[0295] 3. Process for conditioning treatment according to point 1 or 2, characterized in that the carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide is selected from compounds of the general structural formula (II) shown below: wherein

[0296] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or an NH group, - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon-based group which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms;

[0297] - n and z are integers in the range 1 to 20, with n+z > 2, and w is integers in the range zero to 3;

[0298] - Li independently represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based C1-C18 group, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene group, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;

[0299] - E stands for a group selected from -OR 3 -O-, -SR 4 -S-, -R 5 -N(R 6 )-R 4 -N(R 6 )-R 5 -, wherein

[0300] - R 3 and R 4independently represent a hydrocarbon-based group which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms;

[0301] - R 5 independently represents a covalent bond or a saturated divalent hydrocarbon-based group which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms;

[0302] - R 6 independently represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon-based group, which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms.

[0303] 4. Process according to one of points 1 to 3, characterized in that the at least one polycarbodiimide is selected from compounds of the general structural formula (XIV) shown below wherein n is an integer in the range from 3 to 50, preferably 4 to 20, particularly preferably 4 to 10, extremely preferably 6 to 7; and

[0304] R2 and R3, independently of one another, represent one of a compound selected from the group consisting of a monoalkoxy-poly(ethylene glycol) according to the general formula (EO-I):

[0305] R 1 -O-(CH2-CH2-O)mH formula (EO-I), with

[0306] R 1 = C1- to C30-alkyl, C2- to C29-acyl or an aryl group m = 4 to 60, preferably 4-20, particularly preferably 5-15, extraordinarily preferably 6-9.

[0307] 5. Process according to one of points 1 to 4, characterized in that the at least one polycarbodiimide is selected from compounds of the general structural formula (XIV) shown below wherein n is an integer in the range from 4 to 10, preferably 6 to 7; and

[0308] R2 and R3, independently of one another, represent one of a compound selected from the group consisting of a monoalkoxy-poly(ethylene glycol) according to the general formula (EO-I):

[0309] R 1 -O-(CH2-CH2-O)mH Formula (EO-I), with

[0310] R 1= Methyl and m = 4-20, preferably 5-15, particularly preferably 6-9. Process for the conditioning treatment according to one of points 1 to 5, characterized in that the composition (CDI), based on its weight, contains 11-99 wt.%, preferably 30-97 wt.%, particularly preferably 75-95 wt.% water. Process for the conditioning treatment according to one of points 1 to 6, characterized in that the composition (CDI) contains at least one alkalizing agent. Process for the conditioning treatment according to one of points 1 to 7, characterized in that the composition (CDI), based on its weight, contains at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide in a total amount of 0.1-20 wt.%, preferably 0.5-10 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0-5.0 wt.%, extremely preferably 2.0-4.0 wt.%.Process for conditioning treatment according to one of points 1 to 8, characterized in that the composition (CDI) has a pH in the range from 8.5 to 10.5, preferably 9.0 to 10.2, in each case measured at 20°C. Process according to one of points 1 - 9, characterized in that the composition (CDI) contains at least one oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen, which is preferably selected from hydrogen peroxide, persulfates, percarbamide and sodium percarbonate and mixtures thereof, with hydrogen peroxide, persulfates and hydrogen peroxide-persulfate mixtures being particularly preferred. Process according to one of points 1 - 9, characterized in that the composition (CDI) does not contain an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen. Process according to one of points 1 - 11, characterized in that the composition (CDI) contains at least one substantive dye.A conditioning treatment method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the composition (CDI) is prepared immediately before application to the keratin fibers by mixing a composition (Pre-CDI) containing at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide according to any one of claims 1-5 and a hair treatment agent selected from a conditioner, a shampoo, a lightening agent, and a colorant. The method according to item 13, characterized in that the composition (Pre-CDI), based on its weight, further contains at least one carbodiimide or at least one polycarbodiimide in a total amount of 0.5-20 wt. %, preferably 1-15 wt. %, particularly preferably 3-12 wt. %, water and at least one alkalizing agent, and has a pH in the range of 8.0 to 11.0, preferably 8.5 to 10.5, particularly preferably 9.0 to 10.2, each measured at 20°C.Process according to one of points 1 to 14, characterized in that—apart from an optional substitution of the at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide used according to the invention with at least one acrylate- or methacrylate-based monomer—no additional polymer is present which comprises acrylic acid, acrylic acid amides, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid, methacrylic acid amides, and / or methacrylic acid esters as monomer. Process according to one of points 1 to 15, characterized in that the inorganic acid present in composition (A) is selected from phosphoric acid, dihydrogen phosphate salts, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, hydrogen sulfate salts, carbonic acid, nitric acid, and mixtures thereof.Kit for the conditioning treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, comprising at least the following compartments which are physically separate from one another: i) a composition (CDI-x) or (pre-CDI) which contains, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one carbodiimide or at least one polycarbodiimide and which is designed as described for the composition (CDI) in any one of points 1 - 15, and ii) an aqueous composition (A) which contains an inorganic acid but no compounds containing one or more carboxyl groups and has an acidic pH, measured at 20°C, and which is designed as described in any one of points 1 or 16.

[0311] 18. Kit for the conditioning treatment of keratinic fibers according to item 17, characterized in that it comprises at least one further physically separate compartment containing a hair treatment composition selected from a hydrogen peroxide-containing developer solution for oxidative hair color changers, a conditioner and a shampoo.

[0312] The examples presented below are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it thereto.

[0313] 1 . Preparation of a hydrophilized polycarbodiimide preferably used according to the invention

[0314] Raw materials:

[0315] Cycloaliphatic diisocyanate H12MDI: 4,4'-Diisocyanatodicyclohexylmethane, CAS No. 79103-62-1 : (Desmodur®-W, Bayer Materialscience AG, Leverkusen, DE)

[0316] Carbodiimidization catalyst 1, 1-MPO: technical mixture of 1-methyl-2-phospholene-1-oxide and 1-methyl-3-phospholene-1-oxide, CAS Nos. 872-45-7 and 930-38-1: (Clariant AG, Muttenz, CH) Monomethoxy-poly(ethylene glycol) 750, MPEG 750: CAS No. 9004-74-4: (Aldrich, DE) Butoxyethanol: CAS No. 111-76-2: (SysKem Chemie GmbH, Wuppertal, DE)

[0317] General procedure for the carbodiimidization reaction (step a):

[0318] Diisocyanate and carbodiimidization catalyst are placed in a heatable reaction vessel (2 L glass flask or 5 L stainless steel reactor) and heated to 180°C within 2 hours while stirring in a nitrogen stream. The nitrogen stream is then stopped, and the reaction mixture is heated to 200°C within 1 hour while stirring is continued. Optionally, a vacuum is applied at certain intervals to remove the reaction product CO2, and then pressure equalization is ensured by supplying nitrogen. The reaction progress is monitored by taking samples and subsequent titration of the NCO content (initial value for H12MDI: 32 wt%). The typical target range for the NCO content is 5.5–9.5%, corresponding to an average degree of carbodiimidization of 4–7. This means that 4 to 7 carbodiimide groups are present per polycarbodiimide molecule.

[0319] Preparation of a hydrophilized polycarbodiimide (step b) and a polycarbodiimide dispersion (step c):

[0320] 876 g of monomethoxypoly(ethylene glycol) 750 (MPEG 750) are placed in a 15 L stainless steel vessel and heated to 140°C with stirring in a nitrogen atmosphere. 2748 g of the polycarbodiimide from Example 2 (NCO content of 6.2 wt.%) are added. The reaction mixture is stirred for a further one hour at 140°C (NCO content of 3.3 wt.%). 376 g of butoxyethanol are then added and stirred for another hour (NCO content of 0 wt.%). The mixture is then cooled to 95°C, mixed with 6000 g of water, and stirred for a further one hour. A nearly transparent dispersion with a pH of 9, an average particle size of 35 nm (volume average), and a solids content of 40 wt.% is obtained.

[0321] Inventive method for reducing hair damage caused by bleaching

[0322] Table 2: Bleaching powder (quantities in wt.%)

[0323] Table 3: Oxidizing agent-containing developer (“Developer”) for the bleaching powder from Table 2

[0324] Table 4: Composition (CDI) for alkaline treatment, amounts in wt.%

[0325] Table 5: Acid composition (A) for acidic post-treatment (pH 2.8 to 3.2)

[0326] The test strands come from Alkinco (USA; Alkinco 6634, Backnang, Natural Dark European Hair A25.

[0327] Ten grams of the bleaching powder according to Table 2 were thoroughly mixed with 20 grams of developer according to Table 3 to obtain a ready-to-use bleaching agent. This ready-to-use bleaching agent was applied to dry hair strands (virgin hair) and left to work for 45 minutes.

[0328] After the contact time, the application mixture was rinsed out with water at a temperature in the range of 20–35°C, preferably 25–32°C, for 90 seconds and dried with a towel, but not blow-dried. The towel-dried hair was immersed in an alkaline polycarbodiimide-containing solution according to Table 4 (composition (CDI)) and left there for a period of 15 minutes or 10 minutes.

[0329] The hair strands were then removed from the polycarbodiimide-containing solution, drained, and dried in a standardized manner with a towel without prior rinsing.

[0330] The towel-dried hair was immersed in the acidic solution according to Table 5 (Composition (A)) and left there for a period of 5 minutes.

[0331] Finally, the hair strands were removed from the acidic solution, drained, rinsed for 20 seconds with water at a temperature in the range of 20 - 35 °C, preferably 25 - 32 °C, and blow-dried for 15 minutes at 70 °C.

[0332] In a further series of measurements, the bleached strands were immersed in the acidic solution according to Table 5 for only 5 minutes after bleaching, rinsed and blow-dried, without the treatment according to the invention with the alkaline composition (CDI) having been carried out before the acid treatment.

[0333] The melting temperature of the treated keratin fibers was then determined using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The results (median and confidence intervals (quartiles Q25 and Q75)) are summarized in Table 6:

[0334] Table 6: DSC measured values ​​(in °C)

[0335] Treatment with the acidic solution according to Table 5 alone had no effect on the melting temperature of the keratin fibers.

Claims

Patent claims 1. A method for the conditioning treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the following method steps in the specified order: a) applying a composition (CDI) which contains at least one carbodiimide or at least one polycarbodiimide in an aqueous cosmetic carrier and has a pH in the range of 8.0 to 11.0, measured at 20°C, to the keratin fibers, b) leaving the composition (CDI) on the keratin fibers for a time of 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 1 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 5 to 30 minutes, extraordinarily preferably 10 to 15 minutes, without rinsing the composition (CDI), c) optionally drying the keratin fibers, d) applying an aqueous composition (A) to the keratin fibers treated with the composition (CDI) and optionally dried, wherein the composition (A) contains an inorganic acid and has an acidic pH,wherein the pH is preferably 0.2-6.5, more preferably 2.0-6.0, particularly preferably 3.0-5.5, extraordinarily preferably 4.0-5.0, further extraordinarily preferably 4.3-4.6, in each case measured at 20°C, and wherein the composition (A) does not contain any compounds having one or more carboxyl groups, e) leaving to act for a time of 10 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 30 minutes, particularly preferably 1 to 20 minutes, extraordinarily preferably 2 to 15 minutes, further extraordinarily preferably 5 to 10 minutes, f) rinsing the keratin fibers with water, g) optionally drying the keratin fibers.

2. Process for conditioning treatment according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one polycarbodiimide is selected from compounds of the structural formula (CDI-I) wherein X1 and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or an NH group, which is selected from a hydrocarbon group, preferably from at least one alkyl group, which can optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, further selected from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydealkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide, e.g. propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane groups and mixtures thereof; - n is an integer in the range from 1 to 200, preferably 2 to 200, particularly preferably 3 to 150, further particularly preferably 4 to 100, further particularly preferably 4 to 50, further particularly preferably 4 to 10, extremely preferably 6 to 7; and - A represents a divalent group selected from the substituents shown below:

3. Process for conditioning treatment according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide is selected from compounds of the general structural formula (II) shown below: wherein - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or an NH- group, - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon-based group which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms; - n and z are integers in the range 1 to 20, with n+z > 2, and w is integers in the range zero to 3; - Li independently represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based C1-C18 group, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene group, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof; - E stands for a group selected from -OR 3 -O-, -SR 4 -S-, -R^NCR^-R^NCR^-R 5 -, wherein - R 3 and R 4 independently represent a hydrocarbon-based group which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms; - R 5 independently represents a covalent bond or a saturated divalent hydrocarbon-based group which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms; - R 6 independently represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon-based group, which may optionally be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms.

4. Process for conditioning treatment according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the composition (CDI), based on its weight, contains 11-99% by weight, preferably 30-97% by weight, particularly preferably 75-95% by weight of water.

5. Process for conditioning treatment according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the composition (CDI) contains at least one alkalizing agent.

6. Process for conditioning treatment according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the composition (CDI), based on its weight, contains at least one carbodiimide or polycarbodiimide in a total amount of 0.1 - 20 wt.%, preferably 0.2 - 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 5 wt.%.

7. Process for conditioning treatment according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the composition (CDI) has a pH in the range of 8.5 to 10.5, preferably 9.0 to 10.2, in each case measured at 20°C.

8. Process according to one of claims 1-7, characterized in that the composition (CDI) does not contain an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

9. Process according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the inorganic acid contained in the composition (A) is selected from phosphoric acid, dihydrogen phosphate salts, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, hydrogen sulfate salts, carbonic acid, nitric acid and mixtures thereof.

10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the composition (CDI) contains an inorganic buffer system selected from ammonia / ammonium salt, and the composition (A) contains an inorganic buffer system selected from phosphoric acid / dihydrogen phosphate salt, wherein the molar ratio of buffer system in (A) to buffer system in (CDI) is greater than 1 and less than 10, preferably in the range from 2 to 8, particularly preferably in the range from 5 to 7.

11. Kit for the conditioning treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, comprising at least the following compartments, which are physically separate from one another: i) a composition (CDI-x) containing at least one carbodiimide or at least one polycarbodiimide in a cosmetic carrier and which is designed as described for the composition (CDI) in any one of claims 1-8 or 10, and ii) an aqueous composition (A) containing an inorganic acid but no compounds containing one or more carboxyl groups and having an acidic pH, measured at 20°C, and which is designed as described in any one of claims 1 or 9-10.

12. Kit for the conditioning treatment of keratinic fibers according to claim 11, characterized in that it comprises at least one further physically separate compartment containing a hair treatment composition selected from a hydrogen peroxide-containing developer solution for oxidative hair color changers, a conditioner and a shampoo.

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