Topical skin improvement composition

Abstract

The present invention provides a topical skin care composition comprising 0.0001 wt.% to 5 wt.% PPAR activator, 0.01 to 40 wt.% complex carbohydrate comprising starch and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle selected from water, oil, water thickened with a polymer or an emulsion and a silicone system, wherein the PPAR activator is 10-hydroxystearic acid or 12-hydroxystearic acid or a combination thereof and wherein the starch is in native and ungelatinized form in the composition.

Description

[0001] TOPICAL SKIN IMPROVEMENT COMPOSITION

[0002] Field of the invention

[0003] The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions designed to improve the appearance and health of skin. The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions which provide even tone, glow, clarity and barrier benefits to the skin. More particularly, it relates to such compositions having complex carbohydrate comprising starch and PPAR activator.

[0004] Background of the invention

[0005] Skin is subject to deterioration through dermatological disorders, environmental abuse (wind, air conditioning, central heating) or through the normal aging process (chronoaging) which may be accelerated by exposure of skin to sun (photoaging). In recent years the demand for cosmetic compositions and cosmetic methods for improving the appearance and condition of skin has grown enormously.

[0006] Many people are concerned with their skin quality and appearance and want to work on it. Dermatologists are also keen to ensure that skin care products support the skin and help improve the quality of the skin. Essentially products should care for the skin and add back to the skin.

[0007] Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (abbreviated herein to PPAR) are transcription factors that control lipid metabolism. There are three isotypes PPARa, PPARp / b and PPARy, all of which have been localized in the skin according to Riviers et al, in J. Invest. Dermatol. 111 , 1116-1121 (1998). A range of specific fatty acids activates these factors, resulting in antiinflammatory action, to reduce cutaneous irritation responses, and pro-differentiation / anti- proliferation responses to normalise skin metabolism and provide additional skin-care benefits. In US-A-5981586, Pershad Singh teaches that PPAR ligands can reduce proliferation and inflammation in the skin. In PCT application WO-A-98 / 32444 Elias et al teaches that PPAR ligands can restore / prevent skin barrier dysfunction. In EP-A-888773 Malnoe et al describes the use of the PPAR activating lipid petroselinic acid in the treatment and prevention of inflammation in superficial tissues. Furthermore, in PCT application WO-A-99 / 47110, Alaluf et al teach the use of petroselinic acid or glycerides thereof to reduce skin irritation in a treatment for skin intended simultaneously to combat ageing and wrinkling, and also to provide skin lightening properties. In EP-A-709084, Laugier et al describes the use of coriander oil, rich in petroselinic acid, in a skin cosmetic composition for the moisturisation of dry skin. In US-A- 5260053, Chappell et al describe deodorant formulations containing inter alia coriander oil, to accomplish odour reduction, by reducing the population of both micrococci and diphtheroids and to mask any lingering androsterone compounds.

[0008] WO2018113636 (Unilever) discloses a combination of modified GSH block amino acid mix, comprising cystine, glutamate and glycine, with a PPAR activating fatty acid achieves a synergistic increase in skin lightening, thus counter-acting the drawback of cystine’s low solubility.

[0009] WO2001008653 (Unilever) discloses a topical composition comprising: (a) a first lipid selected from petroselinic acid and / or docosahexaenoic acid and / or derivatives thereof; (b) a second lipid which is an activator of peroxisome proliferator activated receptors sub-type alpha and / or derivatives thereof and / or mixtures thereof; and (c) a dermatologically acceptable vehicle; with the proviso that the first and second lipids are not the same lipid. The compositions are useful as cosmetic anti-ageing skin care creams and lotions.

[0010] WO12110276 (Unilever) discloses Leave-on non-solid oil-continuous skin conditioning compositions comprising 12-hydroxy stearic acid. Compositions contain 12HSA, yet have a relatively low viscosity, so are suitable for spreading on the skin, and are stable on storage and structurally reversible through temperature cycling.

[0011] WO24002647 is directed to a stable composition wash composition. The wash composition comprises a mixture of biodegradable thickeners and unsaturated zwitterionic surfactants. The wash composition has a stable viscosity and surprisingly, is free of syneresis, discoloration and malodor, even after being stored at elevated temperatures.

[0012] Hydroxystearic acid has been known for some time in the cosmetic industry. Whereas complex carbohydrates such as starch have been used in soap bar as a part of structuring system and has not been reported for any specific benefits but mostly as a filler.

[0013] Most people consider skin health and appearance as one of the key indicators of their own beauty and health. This is affected by factors like age, hormonal changes, occurrence of acne and exposure to sunlight and pollution.

[0014] Therefore, there is always a need for a composition that works to improve the appearance of skin and it is a highly desired consumer demand to include the skin benefit agents in consumables that are already a part of daily routine and does not require any extra steps towards taking care of the skin.

[0015] Therefore a topical skin composition that caters to the timeless demand of skin improvement is need of the hour that is affordable and works with the skin enhancing it with continued use.

[0016] Summary of the invention

[0017] According to a first aspect, present invention discloses a topical skin composition comprising: i. 0.0001 wt% to 5 wt.% PPAR activator; ii. 0.01 to 40 wt% complex carbohydrate comprising starch; and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle selected from water, oil, water thickened with a polymer or an emulsion (oil in water or water in oil) and a silicone system.

[0018] Second aspect of the present invention provides use of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in topical skin composition according to the first aspect, for providing glow to the skin as compared to a topical skin composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch.

[0019] Third aspect of the present invention provides use of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in topical skin composition according to the first aspect, for providing even skin tone as compared to a topical skin composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch.

[0020] Fourth aspect of the present invention provides use of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in topical skin composition according to the first aspect, for providing skin clarity to the as compared to a topical skin composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch.

[0021] Fifth aspect of the present invention provides use of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in topical skin composition according to the first aspect, for skin spot fading as compared to a topical skin composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch.

[0022] These and other aspects, features and advantages will become apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art from a reading of the following detailed description and the appended claims. For the avoidance of doubt, any feature of one aspect of the present invention may be utilized in any other aspect of the invention.

[0023] The term "comprising" is meant not to be limiting to any subsequently stated elements but rather to encompass non-specified elements of major or minor functional importance. In other words the listed steps, elements or options need not be exhaustive. Whenever the words "including" or "having" are used, these terms are meant to be equivalent to "comprising" as defined above. In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive It is noted that the examples given in the description below are intended to clarify the invention and are not intended to limit the invention to those examples per se. Similarly, all percentages are weight / weight percentages unless otherwise indicated.

[0024] Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description and claims indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and / or use are to be understood as modified by the word "about".

[0025] Numerical ranges expressed in the format "from x to y" are understood to include x and y. When for a specific feature multiple preferred ranges are described in the format "from x to y", it is understood that all ranges combining the different endpoints are also contemplated.

[0026] It should be noted that in specifying any range of concentration or amount, any particular upper concentration can be associated with any particular lower concentration or amount.

[0027] For a more complete understanding of the above and other features and advantages of the invention, reference should be made to the following detailed description of preferred embodiments.

[0028] Detailed description of the invention

[0029] The present invention relates to skin compositions suitable for topical application for the human body, such as the skin and hair. In particular, it relates to compositions that provide improved skin benefits.

[0030] PPAR activator has been known for some time in the cosmetic industry. Whereas complex carbohydrate comprising starch has been used in solid soap compositions as a part of structuring system and has not been reported for any specific benefits but mostly as a filler. The present inventors surprisingly came across a composition that when worked in a given wt% range of ingredients results in beneficial properties of the skin. The level of efficacy (as measured by relevant methodologies) obtained from the combination of these ingredients on skin benefits is higher than either of them in isolation and in fact complex carbohydrate comprising starch is not even known for such benefits. The results of the composition of the present invention showed synergistic beneficial results when the combination of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch was evaluated for skin benefits like glow, skin clarity and even skin tone. The compositions of the present invention were also found to be mild, gentle, smooth and soft.

[0031] The topical composition of the invention is meant to be used for personal care or for cosmetic use and could also be referred to as a personal care composition or a cosmetic composition. By a "personal care composition" as used herein, is meant to include a composition for topical application i.e external surfaces of the skin and / or hair of humans. Such a composition may be classified as leave-on or rinse off, and includes any product applied to a human body for improving appearance, cleansing, odour control or general aesthetics. The composition is preferably of the leave-on type. The composition of the present invention can be in the form of a liquid, lotion, cream, foam, stick, serum, essence or gel. Non-limiting examples of such compositions include leave-on gels, lotions, serum, essence or creams, preferably it is in the serum or essence form. Serums are normally considered to be high concentration / potent leave-on products with actives / skin beneficent ingredients. Essence on the other hand is a water-based composition containing active ingredients to hydrate and protect the skin. Both the formats are meant to be used for easy absorption and deep penetration of actives into skin layers.

[0032] "Skin" as used herein is meant to include skin on the face and body (e.g. neck, chest, back, arms, underarms, hands, legs and scalp) and especially to the exposed parts thereof.

[0033] Topical skin composition

[0034] The present invention provides a topical skin composition comprising: 0.0001 wt% to 5 wt.% PPAR activator; 0.01 to 40 wt% complex carbohydrate comprising starch; and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle selected from water, oil, water thickened with a polymer or an emulsion (oil in water or water in oil) and a silicone system. The composition of the present invention provides improved benefits to the skin such as like glow, skin clarity and even skin tone and was milder and perceived to give a soft after use feel by the consumers.

[0035] PPAR Activator

[0036] Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (abbreviated herein to PPAR) are transcription factors that control lipid metabolism. There are three isotypes PPARa, PPARp / b and PPARy, all of which have been localized in the skin.

[0037] It is most preferred that the PPAR activators are PPAR fatty acids such as cis-parinaric acid, cis-9-trans-11 conjugated linoleic acid, columbinic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, eicosapentanoic acid, hexadecatrienoic acid, linolenelaidic acid (isomer of linolenic acid), petroselinic acid, pinolenic acid, pinolenic acid, punicic acid, ricinoleic acid, ricinolaidic acid(isomerof ricinoleic acid), stearidonic acid, trans- 10-cis- 12 conjugated linoleic acid, 7-trans octadecanoic acid, vaccenic acid and the likes.

[0038] Potential source of hydrolysable PPAR precursors include triglycerides such as coriander seed oil for petroselinic acid, impatiens balsimina seed oil, parinarium laurinarium kernel fat or sabastiana brasilinensis seed oil for cis-parinaric acid, dehydrated castor seed oil for conjugated linoleic acids, and aquilegia vulgaris oil for columbinic acid.

[0039] Desirably, the PPAR acid contains 16 or 18 carbon atoms. Most preferred PPAR acids are olefinically unsaturated, and especially preferably, comprise mono, di or tri unsaturation. Many most desirable PPAR activating acids are not only unsaturated, but also are C16 or C18 acids. An alternative PPAR acid (xvii) comprises 12-hydroxystearic acid, sometimes abbreviated to 12-HSA which is effective for the present purpose at a concentration below that which is needed to form a gelled formulation.

[0040] The proportion of fatty acid PPAR ligands in the invention is at least the minimum proportion which demonstrates a reduction of irritancy and / or improvement in skin condition, compared with the same composition in the absence of the PPAR ligand. As would be expected, such minimum proportion will not only vary from compound to compound but also will depend on whether the acid is employed in free form or introduced via its precursor. The minimum proportion can be determined by a patch test method described subsequently herein. Peroxisome proliferator activated receptors are a known family of nuclear hormone receptors having three subtypes, a, p, y, of varying tissue distribution. Peroxisome proliferator activated receptors sub-type a (hereinafter referred to as PPAR a) are present in skin. The preferred PPAR activator for the composition of the present invention is Lipid Activators of Peroxisome Proliferator Activated Receptors of sub-type a.

[0041] The term “activator of peroxisome proliferator activated receptors of sub-type a” or “PPAR a activator” in the present application means a lipid that activates the nuclear receptor PPAR a.

[0042] Examples of lipid PPAR a activators which satisfy the reporter gene assay test (Kliewer et al. (1992) Nature, 358, 771-774) include C10-C18 saturated fatty acids which preferably are branched, or preferably derivatized (eg with hydroxy groups) if straight chain, C10-C20 monounsaturated fatty acids and C10-C22 polyunsaturated fatty acids.

[0043] The fatty acids may be straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated and may be substituted e.g. hydroxylated such as alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy derivatives. The corresponding alcohols, triglycerides and phospholipids of any of those acids are also suitable for use in the present invention. Preferable derivatives include those derived from substitution of the carboxyl group of the acid, such as esters (e.g. triglyceride esters, monoglyceride esters, diglyceride esters, phosphoesters), amides (e.g. ceramide derivatives), salts (e.g. alkali metal and alkali earth metal salts, ammonium salts). In the case of triglyceride ester derivatives, all positional isomers on the glycerol backbone are included.

[0044] Oils that are rich in fatty acid triglyceride are thus also suitable for use in the present invention. Such oils are commercially available and include coriander seed (rich in petroselinic acid), parsley seed oil (rich in petroselinic acid), evening primrose oil, (rich in gamma linolenic acid), borage seed oil (rich in gamma linolenic acid), Shea butter (rich in oleic and linoleic acid), fish oils and their concentrates (rich in DHA and EPA), cramb oil (rich in erucic acid) linseed oil (rich in alpha linolenic acid), almond oil (rich in oleic acid) and cotton seed oil (rich in linoleic acid).

[0045] Preferable PPAR a activators according to the invention are 10- hydroxy stearic acid, 12- hydroxystearic acid, cis parinaric acid, trans-7-octadecenoic acid, cis 5,8,11 ,14,17 eicosapentanoic acid, cis-4,7, 10, 13, 16, 19 docosahexenoic acid, cojugated linoleic acid (c9,t11), columbinic acid, linolenelaidic acid, ricinolaidic acid, stearidonic acid, 2- hydroxystearic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, cis-11 ,14-eicosadienoic acid, conjugated linoleic (t10,c12), conjugated linoleic acid (t9,t11), conjugated linoleic acid (50:50 mix of c9, t11 and t10 c12), coriander acids, linolelaidic acid, monopetroselinic acid, petroselinic acid, ricinoleic acid, stearolic acid, thuja extract and trans vaccenic acid.

[0046] Further suitable preferred PPAR a activators include cis-11 ,14,17 eicosatrienoic acid, cis-5 eicosenoic acid, cis-8, 11 ,14 eicosatrienoic acid, hexadecatrienoic acid, palmitoleic acid, petroselaidic acid, trans trans farnesol, cis 13, 16 docosadienoic acid, cis vaccenic acid, cis- 11 eicosenoic acid, cis-13,16,19 docosatrienoic acid, cis-13-octadecenoic acid, cis-15- octadecanoic acid, cis-7,10, 13, 16 docosatetraenoic acid, elaidic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, geranic acid, geranyl geranoic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, petroselinyl alcohol, phytanic acid, pinolenic acid, trans- 13-octadecenoic acid, tridecyl salicylic acid (TDS).

[0047] A further suitable category of PPAR a activators include plant extracts, such as biochanin A (red clover phytoestrogen), chromolaena odorata extract, pomegranate saponifiable hydrolysable extract, buglossoides (stearidonic plant extract), and zanthalene (extract from Sichuan peppercorn).

[0048] Particularly preferred lipids, due to their superior anti-ageing effects when combined with petroselinic acid and or DHA (or derivatives thereof) in accordance with the present invention, are selected from the group comprising polyunsaturated fatty acids such linoleic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, linolenic acid eicosatetraynoic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), docosahexaenoic (DHA) acid (for DHA, only where the first lipid of the inventive composition is PA or derivatives thereof), monounsaturated fatty acids such as petroselinic acid (for PA only where the first lipid of the inventive composition is DHA or derivatives thereof), elaidic acid, oleic acid, erucic acid, and dioic acids such hexadecanedioc acid.

[0049] It should also be understood that the PPAR a activator which is present in compositions according to the invention is ideally present in the “active” form; that is, it is not esterified. As such, whilst natural sources of the material such as oils are referred to above, the PPAR a activator which is used in compositions according to the invention is preferably not the raw, esterified form of the activator, but rather a raw material source which is either rich in the unesterified PPAR a activator, or one in which the esterified form has been hydrolysed to release the fatty acid.

[0050] The present invention comprises PPAR activator, more preferably the PPAR activator is PPAR a activator. It is preferable that the PPAR activator is present in the composition of the present invention in the range of 0.0001 wt% to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.001 to 4.5 wt% and most preferably 0.008 wt% to 4 wt% by weight of the topical skin composition. ic acid

[0051] Most preferred PPAR activator of the preset invention hydroxystearic acid or its derivatives. Preferably the topical skin composition of the present invention comprises hydroxystearic acid or its derivatives. Hydroxystearic acids are C18 chain fatty acids with one or more OH groups present along the hydrocarbon chain. Typically 12-HAS and 10-HAS are well known hydroxystearic acid. It is often used as an emollient in skin care products and is also a common soap ingredient due to its surfactant properties.

[0052] The present invention comprises hydroxystearic acid, more preferably the hydroxy stearic acid is 12-hydroxystearic acid and 10- hydroxy stearic acid and most preferably 12-hydroxystearic acid. It is preferable that the hydroxystearic acid is present in the topical skin composition of the present invention in the range of 0.0001 wt% to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.001 to 4.5 wt% and most preferably 0.008 wt% to 4 wt% by weight of the topical skin composition.

[0053] The soap composition of the present invention comprises an complex carbohydrate. There are two types of carbohydrates: simple and complex. Simple carbohydrates are made of one or two sugar molecules.

[0054] Complex carbohydrates include starch and fiber. It is preferred that the complex carbohydrate is a polysaccharide and most preferably comprises starch. Polysaccharides, meanwhile, have a general formula of Cx(H2O)ywhere x and y are usually large numbers between 200 and 2500. When the repeating units in the polymer backbone are six-carbon monosaccharides, as is often the case, the general formula simplifies to (CeH Os) / !, where typically 40 < n < 3000.

[0055] It is preferred that the carbohydrate comprising starch in the soap composition ranges from 1 to 45 wt%, more preferably from 3 to 40 wt% and most preferably from 5 to 35wt% by weight of the soap composition.

[0056] Starch (a polymer of glucose) is a preferably polysaccharide used as a storage polysaccharide in plants, being found in the form of both amylose and the branched amylopectin. In animals, the structurally similar glucose polymer is the more densely branched glycogen, sometimes called "animal starch". It is preferred that the starch is at least 20 wt% by weight of complex carbohydrate, preferably at least 30 wt%, 40 wt%, 50 wt%, 60wt%, 70wt%, more preferably at least 80 wt%, furthermore preferably at least 85 wt%, most preferably at least 90 wt% by weight of complex carbohydrate. In a highly preferred aspect starch is at least 95 wt% by weight of complex carbohydrate.

[0057] In another aspect of the present invention the complex carbohydrate is native starch or modified starch. It is most preferred that the starch is native starch.

[0058] Suitable starch materials include natural starch (from corn, wheat, rice, potato, tapioca and the like), pre-gelatinized starch, various physically and chemically modified starch and mixtures thereof. By the term natural starch is meant starch which has not been subject to chemical or physical modification - also known as raw or native starch.

[0059] A preferred starch is natural or native starch from maize (corn), cassava, wheat, potato, rice and other natural sources of it. Raw starch with different ratio of amylose and amylopectin: e.g. maize (25% amylose); waxy maize (0%); high amylose maize (70%); potato (23%); rice (16%); sago (27%); cassava (18%); wheat (30%) pea (35% amylose) and others. The raw starch can be used directly or modified during the process of making the liquid personal cleansing composition such that the starch becomes gelatinized. It is preferred that the starch is not modified, is either partially or ungelantinized or is pregelatinized. It is most preferred to use ungelatinized or pre-gelatinized starch. It is further preferred to use starch that is native and not modified.

[0060] Another suitable starch is pre-gelatinized, which is starch that has been gelatinized before it is added as an ingredient in the present liquid personal cleansing compositions. Various forms are available that will gel at different temperatures, e.g., cold water dispersible starch.

[0061] Gelatinized starch is the result of starch granules breaking down and dissolving in water when heated, a process known as starch gelatinization. The starch which has not undergone this process can be termed as ‘ungelatinized starch’.

[0062] It is preferred that the starch is in a suspended state in the liquid composition of the present invention and most preferably in concentrations and form in which it does not act as a thickening agent. It is further preferred that starch is used in its ungelatinized form. It is known in the industry that ungelatinized form of starch does not function as a thickening agent. It is preferred that when particle size of starch ranges between 2-70pm more preferably 4- 50pm and most preferably 5-40pm while particle shapes can be smooth oval, oblate spheroid or polygonal and preferably smooth oval / spheroid. It is most preferred that the native starch of particle size in the range of 2-70pm pm, more preferably 4-50pm, and most preferably 5-40pm is used.

[0063] Acceptable carrier

[0064] The composition of the invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable vehicle selected from water, oil, water thickened with a polymer or an emulsion (oil in water or water in oil) and a silicone system. The composition may be delivered in a lotion, cream, serum, essence or gel form, of which serum, essence or gel form. To enable this, the composition may comprises a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. The cosmetically acceptable vehicle is preferably chosen from water (which maybe thickened using polymers), or an emulsion which may be water-in- oil or an oil-in-water emulsion. Products in cream or lotion form are generally emulsions.

[0065] Products in the gel form contain predominantly water in the range of 65 to 90 wt percent, in serum in 60 to 90 wt percent and in essence in 85 to 95 wt percent of the composition.

[0066] The composition of the invention may include a humectant which is generally a polyhydric alcohol. Preferably the humectant is at least one of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,3- butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1 ,3 propanediol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,2,6- hexanetriol, glycerol, ethoxylated glycerol, and propoxylated glycerol. Preferred humectants are selected from one or more of glycerine, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1 ,3 propanediol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and sorbitol. Glycerol is the most preferred humectant. It is preferred that the amount of humectant is 1 to 10 percent, more preferably 2 to 8 percent by weight of the composition.

[0067] The composition preferably includes a skin brightening compound. Illustrative substances are placental extract, lactic acid, vitamin B3 compound preferably niacinamide, arbutin, kojic acid, ferulic acid, hydroquinone, resorcinol and derivatives including 4-substituted resorcinol (e.g. hexyl resorcinol or ethyl resorcinol), hydroxy stearic acid (HSA) preferably 12-HSA, pyridoxine hydrochloride, alpha hydroxyacid (AHA), beta hydroxyacid (BHA), polyhydroxy acid (PHA) or natural skin brightening extracts like honey or lemon extracts and combinations thereof. More preferably, such skin brightening compound is selected from one or more of vitamin B3 compound, resorcinol like ethylresorcinol or hexylresorcinol, , pyridoxine hydrochloride, AHA, BHA, PHA or natural skin brightening extracts like honey or lemon extracts. Most preferably the skin brightening compound is selected from one or more of niacinamide, 4- substituted resorcinol (e.g. 4-ethyl resorcinol or 4-hexyl resorcinol) and 12-HSA. Amounts of these skin brightening compounds may range from 0.01 to 10 percent, preferably from 0.1 to 2 percent by weight of the composition.

[0068] A preferred format for the solid form of the composition is a cream, which could be a vanishing cream base. Vanishing cream base is one which comprises 3 to 25 wt percent fatty acid. Optionally, the composition may comprise 0.1 to 10 wt percent soap. When included, the fatty acid is preferably a C10 to C22 fatty acid, more preferably a C16 to C18 fatty acid. Most preferably the fatty acids are stearic acid or palmitic acid or a mixture thereof and the soap is preferably the potassium salt of the fatty acid mixture. The fatty acid is often hystric acid which is substantially (generally about 90 to 95 percent) a mixture of 45 percent stearic acid and 55 percent palmitic acid.

[0069] Preferably, the composition comprises emollients. Examples of emollients that may be used in the leave-on composition include stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monoricinoleate, mink oil, isopropyl isostearate, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, oleyl alcohol, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, octadecan-2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, eicosanyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, din-butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, polyethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, lanolin, cocoa butter, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, rape seed oil, safflower seed oil, evening primrose oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, avocado oil, sesame seed oil, coconut oil, arachis oil, castor oil, acetylated lanolin alcohols, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, butyl myristate, isopropyl linoleate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, decyl oleate, myristyl myristate and mixtures thereof.

[0070] Preferably, the composition comprises solvents. Examples of solvents that may be used in the composition include ethyl alcohol, isopropanol, acetone, ethylene glycol mono ethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono ethyl ether and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Preferably, the composition comprises powders. Examples of powders that may be used in the composition include chalk, talc, fullers earth, kaolin, gums, colloidal silica sodium polyacrylate, tetra alkyl and / or trialkyl aryl ammonium smectites, chemically modified magnesium aluminium silicate, organically modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminium silicate, fumed silica, carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, ethylene glycol monostearate and mixtures thereof.

[0072] Preferably, the composition comprises preservatives to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Examples of ingredients that may be used as preservatives in the composition include alkyl esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid, hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. More preferably, ingredients that may be used as preservative in the composition are sodium benzoate, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, methylisothiazolinone, iodopropynylbutylcarbamate, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, ethylhexylglycerin, benzyl alcohol, alkane diols and mixtures thereof. The alkane diols that are suitable for use as preservative are C6-C12 alkanes that are vicinally substituted with hydroxy groups. Illustrative examples include 1 ,2-octane diol (caprylyl glycol), 2,3-octane diol, 1 ,2- nonane diol, 1 ,2-decane diol, 1 ,2-hexane diol, 3,4-octane diol, mixtures thereof or the like where caprylyl glycol is typically the most preferred. When present in the composition, preservatives are added preferably in an amount 0.001 to 5 wt percent, more preferably 0.01 to 3 wt percent and most preferably 0.02 to 2 wt percent, even most preferably 0.25 to 1.5 percent.

[0073] Preferably, the composition comprises a range of other optional ingredients that include antioxidants, binders, buffering agents, colorants, astringents, fragrance, opacifying agents, conditioners, exfoliating agents, pH adjusters, skin sensates, skin soothing agents, and skin healing agents.

[0074] The composition of the invention could also be incorporated in a format for cleansing topical surfaces of the human or animal body. Topical skin composition are of the so called wash-off or rinse-off format. By these formats, is meant that the composition is generally diluted with water and applied on the topical surface e.g. the skin or hair and then rinsed off with copious amounts of water after a few minutes. Topical skin composition could be in any format either in solid form or in liquid form. When in solid form it is preferably a bar which may contain soap, synthetic anionic surfactant or a combination of the two.

[0075] The soap for preparing the topical skin composition of the invention is preferably a C8-C24 soap, more preferably C10-C20 soap and most preferably C12-C18 soap. The cation of the soap can be alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium. Preferably, the cation of the soap is selected from sodium, potassium or ammonium. More preferably the cation of the soap is sodium or potassium. Fatty acids derived from other suitable oils / fats such as groundnut, soybean, tallow, palm, palm kernel, etc. may also be used in other desired proportions.

[0076] Synthetic anionic surfactants for use in wash-off compositions are preferably selected from alkyl ether sulphate, primary alkyl sulphate, secondary alkyl sulphonates, alkyl benzene sulphonates, or ethoxylated alkyl sulphates. The anionic surfactant other than soap which is preferred in the topical skin composition is an alkyl ether sulphate preferably those having between 1 and 3 ethylene oxide groups, either from natural or synthetic source and / or sulphonic acid. Especially preferred are sodium lauryl ether sulphates. Alkyl polyglucoside may also be present in the composition, preferably those having a carbon chain length between Ce and C. When present, the anionic surfactant is preferably present in an amount of 1 to 90 percent, preferably from 10 to 85 percent, more preferably 25 to 75 percent by weight of the topical skin composition. The topical skin composition is preferably in the form of a solid or semi solid form, most preferably in a solid form. Preferred solid compositions are in the shape of a soap bar.

[0077] Preferred solid topical skin compositions may include other known ingredients such as perfumes, pigments, preservatives, emollients, sunscreens, gelling agents and thickening agents. Water is a preferred carrier. When water is present, it is preferably present in at least 1 percent, more preferably at least 2 percent, further more preferably at least 5 percent by weight of the composition. When water is the carrier, a preferred topical skin composition comprises 10 to 50 percent, more preferably 12 to 40 percent, most preferably 12 to 22 percent by weight water.

[0078] The topical skin composition of the invention may also be delivered through a moisturizing bar or a moisturizing liquid composition. Moisturizing bar compositions comprising fatty acyl isethionates (e.g. cocyl isethionate) are especially preferred. Fatty acyl isethionates (e.g., cocoyl isethionates) surfactant "products" are defined as mixtures of anionic acyl isethionate surfactants and fatty acids / fatty acid soaps. They are highly desirable in personal care skin or hair cleansing products, particularly in personal care products, because they lather well, are mild to the skin and have good emollient properties. Typically, fatty acid isethionate surfactant products are produced by esterification of fatty acids or by reaction of fatty acid chloride having carbon chain length of C8 to C20 with isethionate. A typical surfactant product containing fatty acyl isethionate contains about 40 to 95 weight percent acid isethionate, and 5 to 50 weight percent, typically 10 to 40 weight percent free fatty acid, in addition to isethionate salts, typically at less than 5 percent, and trace (less than 2 weight percent) of other additives. Fatty acid soap may be included in the range of 5 to 15 wt percent. Other surfactants like betaines may be included in 1 to 5 wt percent. Water is generally included in 2 to 8 wt percent of the composition.

[0079] Wash-off composition in the form of a liquid generally comprises surfactants at low concentration and are mild on skin. The surfactant is generally included in 4 to 18 percent, preferably 6 to 12 percent by weight of the liquid topical skin composition. Surfactants for inclusion in the liquid topical skin composition of the invention may preferably be of the anionic, non-ionic, cationic or amphoteric types. A useful surfactant for inclusion in the liquid topical skin composition of the invention is sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES). The SLES for use in the present invention generally preferably has 1 to 3 Ethoxylate (EO) groups. SLES is preferably included in 3 to 8 percent by weight of the composition. The other surfactant which may be included in the present invention is cocoamide monoethanol amine (CMEA). CMEA is preferably included in 1 to 3 percent by weight of the composition. One preferred aspect of the liquid topical skin composition of the invention relates to an aspect wherein the surfactant comprises a mixture of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES) and coco amide monoethanol amine (CMEA). Another useful surfactant for inclusion in the liquid topical skin composition of the invention

[0080] Water is a preferred carrier in liquid topical skin compositions of the invention. In such compositions, water is generally present in 70 to 95 percent by weight. Preferred liquid topical skin compositions may include other known ingredients such as electrolytes, perfumes, pigments, preservatives, emollients, sunscreens, emulsifiers, gelling agents and thickening agents.

[0081] Other cosmetically acceptable carriers suitable for use in this invention may include mineral oils, silicone oils, synthetic or natural esters, and alcohols. Amounts of these materials may range from 0.1 to 50 percent, and preferably, from 0.1 to 30 percent, and most preferably, from 1 to 20 percent by weight of the composition, including all ranges subsumed therein.

[0082] Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and non-volatile variety. The term "volatile" as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, and preferably, from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Linear volatile silicone materials generally have viscosities of less than 5 centistokes at 25 degrees centigrade while cyclic materials typically have viscosities of less than 10 centistokes (measured with a Brookfield Viscometer, RV No. 3 spindle at 20 PRM, standardized to mineral oil and at 25 degrees C).

[0083] Nonvolatile silicone oils useful as carrier material include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially non-volatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes (like dimethicone, including crosspolymers and elastomers) with viscosities of from 5 to 100,000 centistokes at 25 degrees centigrade

[0084] An often-preferred silicone source is a cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol solution. Among suitable esters are:

[0085] (1) Esters of fatty acids like isononyl isonanonoate, oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate;

[0086] (2) Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols;

[0087] (3) Polyhydric alcohol esters such as ethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol polyfatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1 ,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1 ,3- butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters;

[0088] (4) Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate; and

[0089] (5) Sterol esters, of which soya sterol and cholesterol fatty acid esters are examples thereof.

[0090] Emulsifiers (or surfactants) may be present in the compositions comprising the components of the present invention. Total concentration of the emulsifier, when used, may range from 0.1 to 30 percent, and preferably, from 2 to 20 percent, and most preferably, from 1 to 9 percent by weight of the composition. The emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric components. Particularly preferred nonionic components are those with a C to C20 fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C2-C10 alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di-fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, nono- and di- C8-C20 fatty acids; and polyoxyethylene sorbitan as well as combinations thereof. Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharide fatty amides (e.g. methyl gluconamides) are also suitable nonionic emulsifiers. Preferred anionic emulsifiers include alkyl ether sulfate and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, C8-C20 acyl isethionates, C8-C20 alkyl ether phosphates, alkylethercarboxylates and combinations thereof.

[0091] Cationic emulsifiers that may be used include, for example, palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride and mixtures thereof. Useful amphoteric emulsifiers include cocoamidopropyl betaine, C12-C20 trialkyl betaines, sodium lauroamphoacetate, and sodium laurodiamphoacetate or a mixture thereof.

[0092] Other generally preferred emulsifiers include glyceryl stearate, glycol stearate, stearamide AMP, PEG-100 stearate, cetyl alcohol as well as emulsifying / thickening additives like hydroxyethylacrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurates copolymer / squalene and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Fragrances, fixatives and abrasives may optionally be used in the compositions that include the components of the present invention. Each of these substances may range from 0.05 to 5 percent, preferably between 0.1 and 3 percent by weight of the composition.

[0094] Quaternary ammonium saltsmay be used in the composition of the present invention such as di hydroxy propyl tri (C1-C3 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl) ammonium salts. These salts may be obtained in a variety of synthetic procedures, most particularly by hydrolysis of chlorohydroxypropyltri (C1-C3 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl) ammonium salts. Ordinarily the C1-C3 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl constituent on the quaternized ammonium group will be methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxymethyl and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred is a trimethyl ammonium group known through INCI nomenclature as a "trimonium" group. A most preferred species is 1 ,2-dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, wherein the C1-C3 alkyl is a methyl group. When used, the quaternary ammonium salt makes up from 0.001 to 10 percent, and preferably, from 0.1 to 6 percent, and most preferably, from 0.1 to 3 percent by weight of the skin composition.

[0095] Other preferred moisturizing agents which may be used in the topical skin compositions of the present invention, especially in conjunction with the aforementioned ammonium salts, include substituted urea like hydroxymethyl urea, hydroxyethyl urea, hydroxypropyl urea; bis(hydroxymethyl) urea; bis(hydroxyethyl) urea; bis(hydroxypropyl) urea; N,N'- dihydroxymethyl urea; N,N'-di-hydroxyethyl urea; N,N'-di-hydroxypropyl urea; N,N,N'-tri- hydroxyethyl urea; tetra(hydroxymethyl) urea; tetra(hydroxyethyl) urea; tetra(hydroxypropyl urea; N-methyl, N'-hydroxyethyl urea; N-ethyl-N'-hydroxyethyl urea; N-hydroxypropyl-N'- hydroxyethyl urea and N,N'dimethyl-N-hydroxyethyl urea. Where the term hydroypropyl appears, the meaning is generic for either 3-hydroxy-n-propyl, 2- hydroxy-n-propyl, 3-hydroxy- i-propyl or 2-hydroxy-i-propyl radicals. Most preferred is hydroxyethyl urea. Amounts of substituted urea that may be used in the topical composition of this invention range from 0.01 to 10 percent, or from 0.5 to 8 percent, or from 2 to 6 percent by weight of the composition, when used. Further moisturizing agents for use herein include petrolatum and / or various aquaporin manipulating actives and / or oat kernel flour. Even others include saccharide isomerates like Pentavitin(R) made commercially available from Royal DSM. These agents, when used, typically make up from 0.01 to 6 percent by weight of the composition.

[0096] Non-soap surfactant

[0097] The composition of the present invention may comprise non-soap surfactants and preferably when it is a cleansing, foaming or a wash off composition. It is preferred that the topical skin composition comprises 0.1 to 40 wt%, more preferably in the range of 1 to 35 wt%, further, more preferably in the range of 2 to 30wt% and most preferably in the range of 5 to 25wt% of non- soap surfactant by weight of the topical skin composition. The compositions of the present invention may contain anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants.

[0098] The synthetic anionic detergent active which may be used in the invention may be aliphatic sulfonates, such as a primary alkane (e.g., C8-C22) sulfonate, primary alkane (e.g., C8-C22) disulfonate, C8-C22 alkene sulfonate, C8-C22 hydroxyalkane sulfonate or alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonate (AGS); or aromatic sulfonates such as alkyl benzene sulfonate. The anionic may also be an alkyl sulfate (e.g., C12-C18 alkyl sulfate) or alkyl ether sulfate (including alkyl glyceryl ether sulfates. Anionics may also contain mild surfactants such as amino carboxylic acids or derivatives such as amino carboxylic acids containing sulfur / salt / esters / N-acyl derivatives with glycinate, glutamate, taurate, isothiate functionality with C12, C14 chains.

[0099] The anionic may also be alkyl sulfosuccinates (including mono- and dialkyl, e.g., C6-C22 sulfosuccinates); alkyl and acyl taurates, alkyl and acyl sarcosinates, sulfoacetates, C8-C22 alkyl phosphates and phosphates, alkyl phosphate esters and alkoxyl alkyl phosphate esters, acyl lactates, C8-C22 monoalkyl succinates and maleates, sulphoacetates, alkyl glucosides and acyl isethionates, and the like. Sulfosuccinates may be monoalkyl sulfosuccinates having the formula: R4O2CCH2CH(SO3M)CO2l\ / l; and amide-MEA sulfosuccinates of the formula;

[0100] R4CONHCH2CH2O2CCH2CH(SO3M)CO2l\ / l wherein R4ranges from C8-C22 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.

[0101] Sarcosinates are generally indicated by the formula: R1CON(CH3)CH2CO2M, wherein R1ranges from C8-C20 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.

[0102] Taurates are generally identified by formula:

[0103] R2CONR3CH2CH2SO3M wherein R2ranges from C8-C20 alkyl, R3ranges from C1-C4 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.

[0104] The inventive topical skin composition may contain Cs-Cis acyl isethionates. These esters are prepared by reaction between alkali metal isethionate with mixed aliphatic carboxylic acids having from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and an iodine value of less than 20. At least 75% of the mixed carboxylic acids have from 12 to 18 carbon atoms and up to 25% have from 6 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0105] The acyl isethionate may be an alkoxylated isethionate such as is described in llardi et al., U.S. Patent No. 5,393,466, titled “Fatty Acid Esters of Polyalkoxylated isethonic acid; issued February 28, 1995; hereby incorporated by reference. This compound has the general formula:

[0106] R C-O(O)-C(X)H-C(Y)H2-(OCH-CH2)m-SO3M+wherein R is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbons, m is an integer from 1 to 4, X and Y are hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbons and M+is a monovalent cation such as, for example, sodium, potassium or ammonium.

[0107] The most preferred anionic surfactants for the compositions of the present invention are selected from the group of sulfonic acids, their salts; alkyl ether sulfates; mixtures and combinations thereof. Most preferable anionic surfactants may include sodium lauryl ether sulfate, its derivatives such as ethylene oxide derivatives and the likes.

[0108] It is preferred that the topical skin composition comprises anionic surfactant in the range of 0.1 to 40 wt%, more preferably in the range of 1 to 35 wt%, further, more preferably in the range of 2 to 30wt% and most preferably in the range of 5 to 25wt% by weight of the composition. Preferably the cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, quarternary surfactants, these include, but are not limited to: benzalkonium chloride, alkyl betaine, alkylamidopropyl betaine, alkyl-amidopropylhydroxysultaine alkylamines, alkylimidazoles and ethoxylated amines. It is preferred that the topical skin composition comprises cationic surfactant in the range of-0.1 to 40 wt%, more preferably in the range of 1 to 35 wt%, further, more preferably in the range of 2 to 30wt% and most preferably in the range of 5 to 25wt% by weight of the composition.

[0109] Preferably the amphoteric surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, acyl I dialkylethylene diamines, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), hydroxy sultaine derived from coconut fatty acid or lauric acids, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acrylamphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acrylamphodiacetate and sodium acrylamphopropionate, N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropyl alkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate. It is preferred that the topical skin composition comprises amphoteric surfactant in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt%, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 8 wt%, further, more preferably in the range of 1 to 7wt% and most preferably in the range of 2 to 6wt% by weight of the composition.

[0110] Preferably, the compositions will comprise a combination of anionic synthetic and amphoteric Surfactant (e.g., betaine), especially when anionic comprises 50% or greater of such mixture of synthetics.

[0111] One or more nonionic surfactant(s) may be used in the topical skin composition of the present invention as a co-surfactant. Nonionic surfactants are preferably used at levels as low as 5, 7.5 or 10% by wt. and at levels as high as 20, 25 or 30% by wt. The nonionic surfactants which may be used include in particular the reaction products of compounds having a hydrophobic group and a reactive hydrogen atom, for example aliphatic alcohols, acids, amides or alkylphenols with alkylene oxides, especially ethylene oxide either alone or with propylene oxide. Specific nonionic detergent compounds are alkyl (C6-C22) phenols ethylene oxide condensates, the condensation products of aliphatic (Cs-Cis) primary or secondary linear or branched alcohols with ethylene oxide, and products made by condensation of ethylene oxide with the reaction products of propylene oxide and ethylenediamine. Other so-called nonionic detergent compounds include long chain tertiary amine oxides, long chain tertiary phosphine oxides and dialkyl sulphoxide, and the like. Preferred nonionic surfactants include alkylpolyglucosides and carboxylic acid / alcohol ethoxylates having the following structures a) HOCH2(CH2)n(CH2CH2O)xH or b) HOOC(CH2)m(CH2CH2O)yH; where m, n are independently < 18; and x, y are independently > 1 ; preferably m, n are independently 6 to 18; x, y are independently 1 to 30; c) HOOC(CH2)i-CH=CH-(CH2)k(CH2CH2O)zH; where i, k are independently 5 to 15; and z is independently 5 to 50; preferably i, k are independently 6 to 12; and z is independently 15 to 35.

[0112] The nonionic may also include a sugar amide, such as a polysaccharide amide. Specifically, the surfactant may be one of the lactobionamides described in U.S. Patent No. 5,389,279 to Au et al. titled “Compositions Comprising Nonionic Glycolipid Surfactants issued February 14, 1995; which is hereby incorporated by reference or it may be one of the sugar amides described in Patent No. 5,009,814 to Kelkenberg, titled “Use of N-Poly Hydroxyalkyl Fatty Acid Amides as Thickening Agents for Liquid Aqueous Surfactant Systems” issued April 23, 1991 ; hereby incorporated into the subject application by reference.

[0113] Preferably the non-ionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, Alkanolamides, such as Cocamide MEA DEA / MIPA, esters produced by the esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols, ethers, for example ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated poly-siloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and cocoglucoside. It is preferred that the topical skin composition comprises non-ionic surfactant in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt%, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 8 wt%, further, more preferably in the range of 1 to 7wt% and most preferably in the range of 2 to 6wt% by weight of the composition.

[0114] Suitable surfactants that may be used in the formulations disclosed herein may comprise one or more of sodium cocoyl isethionate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, sodium sulfate, sodium silicate, Cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium coco sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate. In one embodiment, the surfactant may comprise sodium cocoyl isethionate. In another embodiment, the surfactant may comprise disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate In a further embodiment, the surfactant may comprise a mixture of lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, sodium sulfate, sodium silicate, and sodium coco sulfate). In yet another embodiment, the surfactant may comprise sodium lauryl sulfate. Suitable surfactants are not limited to the ones enumerated herein and may include other surfactants that are in powder form prior to their incorporation into the formulation and are water-soluble to maximize the cleansing potential of the formulation.

[0115] Co-surfactants

[0116] For the purpose of this invention, alkoxylated nonionic surfactants, which are a class of nonionic surfactants, are defined specifically as co-surfactants. Again, for the purpose of this invention only, alkoxylated nonionic surfactants, which are co-surfactants, are differentiated from the other nonionic surfactants defined previously, in that alkoxylated nonionic surfactants, which are co-surfactants, contain at least 2 or more alkylene oxide groups. (By contrast, nonionic surfactants with EO less than 2 are considered to be surfactants as described in the paragraphs above.) Examples of alkoxylated nonionic surfactants include, but are not limited to, condensation products of linear or branched fatty chain alcohols, acids, phenols, esters, glycerides, amines and amides. The preferred co-surfactants are ethoxylated nonionic surfactants with ethylene oxide (EO) groups in the range of 2 -12 and most preferably from 2 to 6. Especially preferred nonionic surfactants are ethoxylated fatty amides with the (EO) groups in the range of 2-12, most preferably 2 to 6.

[0117] It is preferred that the present composition comprises co-surfactants in the range of 0 to 10wt%, more preferably 2 to 8 wt% and most preferably 3 to 7 wt%.

[0118] Electrolyte

[0119] The topical skin composition of the present invention may comprise an electrolyte. The electrolyte for the purposes of the present invention may include inorganic salts (e.g., sodium chloride, potassium chloride) as well as organic salts (e.g., sodium citrate). In addition to the above-mentioned chloride and citrate salts, other salts include phosphates, sulfates and other halogen ion salts. The counter ions of such salts can be sodium or other monovalent cations as well as di- and trivalent cations.

[0120] The topical skin composition may optionally comprise electrolytes. When present the electrolytes may range from 0.01 to 5 wt% more preferably from 0.1 to 4.5 wt% and most preferably from 0.1 to 4.5 wt% by weight of the topical skin composition. These wt% values are inclusive of the case when electrolytes function as rheology modifying agents.

[0121] Chelating Agent The topical skin composition of the present invention may comprise a chelating agent. It is preferred that the chelating agent in the topical skin composition is present in the range of 0.1 to 3 wt% by weight of the topical skin composition, more preferably in the range of 0.2 to 2.5 wt% by weight of the topical skin composition, and most preferably in the range of 0.2 to 1.5 wt% by weight of the topical skin composition.

[0122] It is preferred that the chelating agent in the topical skin composition is present at least 0.1 wt%, more preferably at least 0.8 wt%, and most preferably at least 1 wt% by weight of the topical skin composition.

[0123] It is preferred that the chelating agent in the topical skin composition is present at most 3 wt%, more preferably at most 2.5 wt%, further preferably at most 2 wt% and most preferably at most 1 .5 wt% by weight of the topical skin composition.

[0124] The preferred chelating agents are as follows (names followed by their abbreviation in parenthesis):

[0125] Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic acid (EDTA), Disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, Diethylene Triamine Penta Acetic acid (DTPA), Ethane-1 -hydroxy-1 ,1 -diphosphonate (EHDP), Ethylene Diamine-N,N'-Disuccinate (EDDS), Nitrilo Triacetic Acid (NTA), Sodium Imino Disuccinate (IDS), Ethylene Glycol-bis-(2-aminoethyl)-N,N,N', N'-Tetra Acetic acid (EGTA), Methyl Glycine Diacetic Acid (MGDA), N-(2-hydroxyethyl) Ethylene Diamine N,N',N'- Thacetic acid) (HEDTA), Ethylene Diamine Tetra Methylene Phosphonic acid (EDTMP), Diethylene Thamine-Penta-Methylene Phosphonic acid (DTPMP), Glutamic acid-N,N-Diacetic Acid (GLDA), Cyclohexane-1 ,2-Diamine-N,N,N',N'-Tetra-Acetic Acid (CDTA), 1 ,3- Propylenediamine Tetra-Acetic Acid (PDTA), Ethylene Diamine Triacetic Acid (EDTA), L- hydroxy Imino Disuccinic acid (L-IDS), Trisodium N-Carboxyethyl Imino Succinate (CEIS), Citric Acid, Sodium Thpolyphosphate (STP), Thethylene Tetramine Hexaacetic Acid (TTHA). Other preferred chelating agents are Trisodium Ethylene Diamine Disuccinate, Sod gluconate, Tetra-sodium-lmino disuccinate, Glutamic acid-N,N diacetic acid tetra sodium salt, 2- hydroxyethyl iminodiacetic acid, Sodium salt (disodium ethanol diglycinate), Tetrasodium 3- hydroxy-2,2 imino disuccinate, Trisodium methylglycine diacetic acid, L- Aspartate-N,N- diacetic acid tetrasodium salt. The more preferred chelating agents are salt of Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic acid (EDTA) and salt of Diethylene Thamine Penta Acetic acid (DTPA). Preferred salts of EDTA are disodium Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic acid and tetrasodium Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic acid. Preferred salt of DTPA is the pentasodium Diethylene Thamine Penta Acetic acid.

[0126] It is most preferred that the chelating agent suitable for the compositions of the present invention are selected from the group of Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic acid (EDTA), or Diethylene Triamine Penta Acetic acid (DTPA), their derivatives and combinations, mixtures thereof. The EDTA derivative is selected from tetrasodium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, disodium EDTA, and combinations thereof. The DTPA derivative is selected from tetrasodium DTPA, trisodium DTPA, disodium DTPA, and combinations thereof.

[0127] Preservative

[0128] The composition of the topical skin composition of the present invention may comprise a preservative. It is preferred that the preservative in the topical skin composition is present in the range of 0.1 to 3wt% by weight of the topical skin composition, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 2wt-by weight of the topical skin composition, and most preferably in the range of 0.1 to 1 w% by weight of the topical skin composition.

[0129] Preservatives can be incorporated into the topical skin compositions comprising the components of this invention to assist against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Suitable traditional preservatives for use in the compositions of this invention include alkyl esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid. Other preservatives include hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. Often preferred preservatives are iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, sodium benzoate and benzyl alcohol. Especially preferred additives suitable to be employed with preservatives used in this invention are 1 ,2-alkanediols (like 1 ,2-octanediol and 1 ,2 hexanediol) as well as commonly used fragrance oils (added separately or with the fragrance in the prolioid composition) like eugenol, coumarin, linalyl acetate, citronellal, iris concentrate, terpinyl acetate, pinenes (alpha and beta pinene) and citronellol.

[0130] Very useful examples of the preservatives suitable for the compositions of the present inventions, but are not limited to, chlorite components, sorbic acid components and mixtures thereof.

[0131] Other preferred preservatives include but not limited to commonly used in cosmetics, such as dibromdicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-lod-2- propinylbutylcarbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitro-propane-1 , 3-diol, imidazolidinyl hamstoff, 5-chloro- 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol.

[0132] It is particularly preferred according to the invention that the preservative is selected from Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, 3-iodo-2-propynl butyl carbamate (IPBC), DMDM hydantoin and benzyl alcohol and) or mixtures or combinations thereof.

[0133] Water

[0134] The topical skin composition of the present invention may comprise water in the range of 5 to 90 wt% water, more preferably 5 to 80 wt% and and most preferably from 10 to 70 wt% by weight of the composition. The composition of the present invention is primarily an aqueous composition.

[0135] The wt% of water can also be chosen according to the form and format of the topical skin composition. Such as if the composition is a concentrate, less of water will be present in the composition as compared to a higher wt% of water when an end use topical skin composition is made.

[0136] Rheology modifying agent

[0137] The composition of the present invention may comprise a rheology modifying agent, which means an agent that affects the rheology of the topical skin compositions. These agents may be thickening agents such as polymers and may include electrolyte salts which may function to modify the rheology of the topical skin composition. The composition of the present invention may comprise rheology modifying agent in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt%, more preferably 0.1 to 9 wt% and most preferably in the range of 1 to 8.5 wt% by weight of the topical skin composition of the present invention.

[0138] Thickening agents may optionally be included in the topical skin compositions of the present invention. Examples include natural / synthetic gums and cellulosics. Representative of the. Suitable gums include xanthan, sclerotium, pectin, karaya, Arabic, agar, guar, carrageenan, alginate and combinations thereof. Suitable cellulosics include hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, ethylcellulose and sodium carboxy methylcellulose. Synthetic polymers are yet another class of effective thickening agent. This category includes crosslinked polyacrylates such as the Carbomers, polyacrylamides such as Sepigel(R) 305 and taurate copolymers such as Simulgel EG(R) and Aristoflex(R) AVC, the copolymers being identified by respective INCI nomenclature as Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloldimethyl Taurate and Acryloyl Dimethyltaurate / Vinyl Pyrrolidone Copolymer. Another preferred synthetic polymer suitable for thickening is an acrylate-based polymer made commercially available by Seppic and sold under the name Simulgel I N 100. Polyquaternium 32 and / or 37 are also suitable for use.

[0139] Cellulose microfibrils may be used as thickening agents and these include secondary cell wall materials (e.g. wood pulp, cotton), bacterial cellulose, and primary cell wall materials. Often the source of primary cell wall material is selected from parenchymal tissue from fruits, roots, bulbs, tubers, seeds, leaves and combination thereof; more preferably is selected from citrus fruit, tomato fruit, peach fruit, pumpkin fruit, kiwi fruit, apple fruit, mango fruit, sugar beet, beet root, turnip, parsnip, maize, oat, wheat, peas and combinations thereof; and even more preferably is selected from citrus fruit, tomato fruit and combinations thereof. A most preferred source of primary cell wall material is parenchymal tissue from citrus fruit. Citrus fibers, such as those made available by Herbacel(R) as AQ Plus can also be used as source for cellulose microfibrils. The cellulose sources can be surface modified by any of the known methods including those described in Colloidal Polymer Science, Kalia et al., "Nanofibrillated cellulose: surface modification and potential applications" (2014), Vol 292, Pages 5-31.

[0140] Thickening agents may be water soluble / dispersible polymers. These polymers can be cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic types with molecular weights higher than 100,000 Dalton. They are known to increase the viscosity and stability of liquid cleanser compositions, to enhance in-use and after-use skin sensory feels, and to enhance lather creaminess and lather stability. Amount of the polymers, when present, may range from 0.01 to 10% by weight of the composition. It is preferred that the thickening polymers are present in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt%, more preferably 0.1 to 9 wt% and most preferably in the range of 1 to 8.5 wt% by weight of the topical skin composition of the present invention.

[0141] Examples of water soluble / or dispersible polymers and rheology modifiers include the carbohydrate gums such as cellulose gum, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gel, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, guar gum, gum karaya, gum tragacanth, gum arabic, gum acacia, gum agar, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof; emulsion polymers such as Aculyn® 28, cationic polymer such as modified polysaccharides including cationic guar such as Jaguar® C13S, Jaguar® C17, or Jaguar® C16; cationic modified cellulose such as LICARE® Polymer JR 30 or JR 40; N-Hance® 3000, N-Hance® 3196, N-Hance® GPX 215 or N-Hance® GPX 196 from Hercules; synthetic cationic polymer such as Merquat® 100, Merquat® 280, Merquat® 281 and Merquat® 550 sold by Nalco;; cationic galactomannans such as Galactasol® 800 series by Henkel, Inc.; Quadrosoft® LM-200; and Polyquaternium-24®. Also suitable are high molecular weight polyethylene glycols such as Polyox® WSR-205 (PEG 14M), Polyox® WSR- N-60K (PEG 45), and Polyox® WSR-301 (PEG 90M). Other cationic cellulose derivatives are cationic guar gum derivatives.

[0142] The electrolyte as mentioned supra may act as rheology modifying agents.

[0143] For the purpose of this invention, the rheology modifying agent is different than starch and more preferably different than unglatinized starch.

[0144] The topical skin composition of the present invention may comprise about 0.1 to 40 wt% of soap, more preferably 2 to 30 wt% and most preferably about 5 to 25wt% of soap by weight of the topical skin composition. It is preferable that the topical skin composition has 0.1 to 40 wt% of total fatty matter (TFM).

[0145] The term soap means salts of fatty acids in which the accompanying cation may be an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium ion, preferably an alkali metal. Preferably, the cation is sodium or potassium. The soap may be saturated or unsaturated and it depends on the nature of the corresponding fatty acid and / or oil used for saponification.

[0146] Emollients

[0147] The compositions of the present invention may comprise an emollient. The term “emollient” is defined as a substance which softens or improves the elasticity, appearance, and youthfulness of the skin (stratum corneum) by either increasing its water content, adding, or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients; or both, and keeps it soft by retarding the decrease of its water content.

[0148] Moisturizers that also are Humectants such as polyhydric alcohols, e.g. glycerin and propylene glycol, and the like; and polyols such as the polyethylene glycols such as Polyox WSR N-60K (PEG-45M) and the like are used in a preferred embodiment of the invention. Humectants are preferably used at a minimum of 0.5, 2.5 or 5 % by wt. and a maximum of 15, 20 or 25% by wt.

[0149] Hydrophobic emollients are used in a preferred embodiment of the invention. Preferred are hydrophobic emollient(s) with weight average particle sizes below either 1000 or 500 microns in diameter and are defined herein as “finely dispersed oils”. These emollients are preferably used at a minimum of 0.5, 2.5 or 5 % by wt. and a maximum of 15, 20 or 25% by wt.

[0150] Suitable hydrophobic emollients include but are not limited to the following:

[0151] (a) silicone oils and modifications thereof such as linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes; amino, alkyl, alkylaryl, and aryl silicone oils;

[0152] (b) fats and oils including natural fats and oils (triglycerides) such as jojoba, soybean, sunflower, rice bran, avocado, almond, olive, sesame, persic, castor, coconut, mink oils; cacao fat; beef tallow, lard; hardened oils obtained by hydrogenating the aforementioned oils; and synthetic mono, di and triglycerides such as myristic acid glyceride and 2- ethylhexanoic acid glyceride;

[0153] (c) waxes such as carnauba, spermaceti, beeswax, lanolin, and derivatives thereof;

[0154] (d) hydrophobic plant extracts;

[0155] (e) hydrocarbons such as petrolatum, polybutene, liquid paraffins, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, squalene, pristan and mineral oil;

[0156] (f) higher alcohols such as lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl, cholesterol and 2- hexydecanol alcohol;

[0157] (g) esters such as cetyl octanoate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate, alkyl lactate, alkyl citrate and alkyl tartrate;

[0158] (h) essential oils and extracts thereof such as mentha, jasmine, camphor, white cedar, bitter orange peel, ryu, turpentine, cinnamon, bergamot, citrus unshiu, calamus, pine, lavender, bay, clove, hiba, eucalyptus, lemon, starflower, thyme, peppermint, rose, sage, sesame, ginger, basil, juniper, lemon grass, rosemary, rosewood, avocado, grape, grapeseed, myrrh, cucumber, watercress, calendula, elder flower, geranium, linden blossom, amaranth, seaweed, ginko, ginseng, carrot, guarana, tea tree, jojoba, comfrey, oatmeal, cocoa, neroli, vanilla, green tea, penny royal, aloe vera, menthol, cineole, eugenol, citral, Citronelle, borneol, linalool, geraniol, evening primrose, camphor, thymol, spirantol, penene, limonene and terpenoid oils;

[0159] (i) mixtures of any of the foregoing components, and the like.

[0160] Benefit Agents In addition to the ingredients described earlier, preferred embodiments of the topical skin compositions may also include other optional and preferred ingredients for their known benefits. The type and content will largely depend on the nature and type of topical skin composition as well as general principles of formulation science.

[0161] Other optional compositions include one or more skin benefit agents. The term "skin benefit agent" is defined as a substance which softens or improves the elasticity, appearance, and youthfulness of the skin (stratum corneum) by either increasing its water content, adding, or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients; or both, and keeps it soft by retarding the decrease of its water content. Included among the suitable skin benefit agents are emollients, including, for example, hydrophobic emollients, hydrophilic emollients, or blends thereof. Water-soluble skin benefit agents may optionally be formulated into the liquid compositions of the invention. A variety of water-soluble skin benefit agents can be used and the level can be from 0 to 50% but preferably from 1 to 30% by weight of the composition. These materials include, but are not limited to, polyhydroxy alcohols.

[0162] Water-insoluble skin benefit agents may also be formulated into the compositions as conditioners and moisturizers. Examples include silicone oils; hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffins, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, and mineral oil; and vegetable triglycerides such as sunflower seed and cottonseed oils.

[0163] A variety of other optional materials may be formulated into the compositions. These may include: antimicrobials; scrub and exfoliating particles such as polyethylene and silica or alumina; cooling agents such as menthol; skin calming agents such as aloe vera; and colorants.

[0164] Shower gel or Body wash may contain particles that are greater than 50 pm in average diameter that help remove dry skin. Not being bound by theory, the degree of exfoliation depends on the size and morphology of the particles. Large and rough particles are usually very harsh and irritating. Very small particles may not serve as effective exfoliants. Such exfoliants used in the art include natural minerals such as silica, talc, calcite, pumice, tricalcium phosphate; seeds such as rice, apricot seeds, etc; crushed shells such as almond and walnut shells; oatmeal; polymers such as polyethylene and polypropylene beads, flower petals and leaves; microcrystalline wax beads; jojoba ester beads, and the like. These exfoliants come in a variety of particle sizes and morphology ranging from micron sized to a few mm. They also have a range of hardness. Some examples are talc, calcite, pumice, walnut shells, dolomite and polyethylene.

[0165] Advantageously, active agents other than skin conditioning agents defined above may be added to the composition. These active ingredients may be advantageously selected from bactericides, vitamins, anti-acne actives; anti-wrinkle, anti-skin atrophy and skin repair actives; skin barrier repair actives; non-steroidal cosmetic soothing actives; artificial tanning agents and accelerators; skin lightening actives; sunscreen actives; sebum stimulators; sebum inhibitors; anti-oxidants; protease inhibitors; skin tightening agents; anti-itch ingredients; hair growth inhibitors; 5-alpha reductase inhibitors; desquamating enzyme enhancers; anti-glycation agents; or mixtures thereof; and the like.

[0166] These active agents may be selected from water-soluble active agents, oil soluble active agents, pharmaceutically acceptable salts and mixtures thereof. The term "active agent" as used herein, means personal care actives which can be used to deliver a benefit to the skin and / or hair and which generally are not used to confer a skin conditioning benefit, such are delivered by emollients as defined above. The term "safe and effective amount" as used herein, means an amount of active agent high enough to modify the condition to be treated or to deliver the desired skin care benefit, but low enough to avoid serious side effects. The term "benefit," as used herein, means the therapeutic, prophylactic, and / or chronic benefits associated with treating a particular condition with one or more of the active agents described herein. What is a safe and effective amount of the active agent(s) will vary with the specific active agent, the ability of the active to penetrate through the skin, the age, health condition, and skin condition of the user, and other like factors.

[0167] A wide variety of active agent ingredients are useful for the compositions of the present inventions and include those selected from anti-acne actives, anti-wrinkle and anti-skin atrophy actives, skin barrier repair aids, cosmetic soothing aids, topical anesthetics, artificial tanning agents and accelerators, skin lightening actives, antimicrobial and antifungal actives, sunscreen actives, sebum stimulators, sebum inhibitors, anti-glycation actives and mixtures thereof and the like.

[0168] Anti-acne actives can be effective in treating acne vulgaris, a chronic disorder of the pilosebaceous follicles. Non limiting examples of useful anti-acne actives include the keratolytics such as salicylic acid (o-hydroxybenzoic acid), derivatives of salicylic acid such as 5-octanoyl salicylic acid and 4 methoxysalicylic acid, and resorcinol; retinoids such as retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, particularly their N-acetyl derivatives, mixtures thereof and the like.

[0169] Skin barrier repair actives are those skin care actives which can help repair and replenish the natural moisture barrier function of the epidermis. Non limiting examples of skin barrier repair actives include lipids such as cholesterol, ceramides, sucrose esters and pseudo-ceramides as described in European Patent Specification No. 556,957; ascorbic acid; biotin; biotin esters; phospholipids, mixtures thereof, and the like.

[0170] Artificial tanning actives can help in simulating a natural sun tan by increasing melanin in the skin or by producing the appearance of increased melanin in the skin. Non limiting examples of artificial tanning agents and accelerators include dihydroxyacetaone; tyrosine; tyrosine esters such as ethyl tyrosinate and glucose tyrosinate; mixtures thereof, and the like.

[0171] Also useful are sunscreen actives. Non limiting examples of sunscreens which are useful in the compositions of the present invention are those selected from the group consisting of octyl methoxyl cinnamate (Parsol MCX) and butyl methoxy benzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), 2- ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N,N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p- aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5sulfonic acid, oxybenzone, mixtures thereof, and the like.

[0172] Also useful are protease inhibitors. Protease inhibitors can be divided into two general classes: the proteinases and the peptidases. Proteinases act on specific interior peptide bonds of proteins and peptidases act on peptide bonds adjacent to a free amino or carboxyl group on the end of a protein and thus cleave the protein from the outside. The protease inhibitors suitable for use in the inventive personal topical skin compositions include, but are not limited to, proteinases such as serine proteases, metalloproteases, cysteine proteases, and aspartyl protease, and peptidases, such as carboxypepidases, dipeptidases and aminopepidases, mixtures thereof and the like.

[0173] Active ingredients in the inventive topical skin compositions may also include anti-itch ingredients. Suitable examples of anti-itch ingredients which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include hydrocortisone, methdilizine and trimeprazine, mixtures thereof, and the like.

[0174] Non limiting examples of hair growth inhibitors which are useful in the inventive topical skin composition include 17 beta estradiol, anti-angiogenic steroids, curcuma extract, cycloxygenase inhibitors, evening primrose oil, linoleic acid and the like. Suitable 5-alpha reductase inhibitors such as ethynylestradiol and, genistine mixtures thereof, and the like.

[0175] Advantageously cationic skin feel agent(s) or polymer(s) are used from about 0.01 , 0.1 or 0.2% by wt. to about 1 , 1 .5 or 2.0% by wt.

[0176] Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) in their Polymer JR® and LR® series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium® 10. Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium® 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200®, and quaternary ammonium compounds such as alkyldimethylammonium halogenides.

[0177] A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc in their JAGUAR® trademark series). Examples are JAGUAR® C13S, which has a low degree of substitution of the cationic groups and high viscosity, JAGUAR® C15, having a moderate degree of substitution and a low viscosity, JAGUAR® C17 (high degree of substitution, high viscosity), JAGUAR® C16, which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups, and JAGUAR® 162 which is a high transparency, medium viscosity guar having a low degree of substitution.

[0178] Particularly preferred cationic polymers are JAGUAR® C13S, JAGUAR® C15, JAGUAR® C17 and JAGUAR® C16 and JAGUAR® C162, especially JAGUAR® C13S. Other cationic skin feel agents known in the art may be used provided that they are compatible with the inventive formulation.

[0179] Other preferred cationic compounds that are useful in the present invention include amido quaternary ammonium compounds such as quaternary ammonium propionate and lactate salts, and quaternary ammonium hydrolyzates of silk or wheat protein, and the like. Many of these compounds can be obtained as the Mackine® Amido Functional Amines, Mackalene® Amido functional Tertiary Amine Salts, and Mackpro® cationic protein hydrolysates from the McIntyre Group Ltd. (University Park, III.). In embodiments having a hydrolyzed protein conditioning agent, the average molecular weight of the hydrolyzed protein is preferably about 2500. Preferably 90% of the hydrolyzed protein is between a molecular weight of about 1500 to about 3500. In a preferred embodiment, MACKPRO® WWP (i.e. wheat germ amido dimethylamine hydrolyzed wheat protein) is added at a concentration of 0.1% (as is) in the bar.

[0180] Method

[0181] The topical skin composition could be prepared by any of the known industry methods to prepare a composition according to the suitable cosmetically acceptable vehicle selected.

[0182] When the topical skin composition is a liquid cleansing composition, the method could comprise steps of: a. solubilizing non-soap surfactants and dispersing rheology modifying agents in water to form an aqueous medium, b. adding complex carbohydrate comprising starch to the aqueous medium of step (a) to obtain the liquid cleansing composition; wherein PPAR activator is added during step (a) or (b).

[0183] Optionally soap may be added in the range from 0.01 to 40 wt%.

[0184] When the topical skin composition is a solid cleansing composition, the method could comprise steps of: i) extruding the soap mass resulting from step (b) to obtain the soap bar according to the first aspect. wherein 0.01 to 5 wt% of PPAR activator by weight of the soap bar composition is added at step (i) or (ii); and wherein 0.1 to 5 wt% of an electrolyte by weight of the soap bar composition is added at step (i) or (ii).

[0185] When the topical skin composition is a skin care cream or lotion, the method could comprise emulsifying the water phase with water soluble ingredients and oil phase with oil soluble ingredients and adding emulsifying agents, stabilizers, preservatives and optionally rheology modifying agents. The rheology of the composition may be adjusted according to the desired format.

[0186] Use The present invention provides use of PPAR activator preferably hydroxy stearic acid and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in topical skin composition according to the first aspect, for providing even skin tone as compared to a topical skin composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch as measured by various methodologies compared.

[0187] The present invention provides use of PPAR activator preferably hydroxy stearic acid and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in topical skin composition according to the first aspect, for providing skin clarity and spot fading to the as compared to a topical skin composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch as measured by various methodologies compared.

[0188] The present invention provides use of PPAR activator preferably hydroxy stearic acid and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in topical skin composition according to the first aspect, for other skin health, aging, barrier and appearance benefits as measured by various methodologies compared to a topical skin composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch.

[0189] The invention will now be illustrated by means of the following non-limiting examples.

[0190] Examples

[0191] While this invention has been described with respect to particular embodiments thereof, it is apparent that numerous other forms and modifications of the invention will be obvious to those skilled in the art. The appended claims and this invention generally should be construed to cover all such obvious forms and modifications which are within the true spirit and scope of the present invention.

[0192] Example 1

[0193] Preparation of formulations

[0194] The soap manufacturing process starts primarily with the basic step of saponification of the fat charge with an alkali to produce a soap mass. The process may or may not include other excipients and additives such as but not limited to electrolytes, polyols etc. A required quantity of fatty acids & other raw materials were weighed & charged into the mixer. An aqueous solution of alkali was used for this neutralization reaction. The completion of the neutralization was checked through phenolphthalein indicator test and if required additional alkali to be added to ensure completion of the neutralization reaction. In-process quality check to be done before the soap mass is passed through further processes including but not limited to passing of soap mass through chilled rolls and then to refiner to convert into noodle form.

[0195] In the final step, the soap noodles are added to the mixer. They are crushed. Requisite amount of other formula additives including but not limited to starch, 12HSA etc are added and mixing continued. Required colourants are dissolved in water prior to addition to the mixer contents. Fragrance is added at the end and the mixing is continued to get uniform macro mixing. The resultant formula mass is then dropped & conveyed for further mechanical processes including but not limited to its extrusion from a plodder post which it is stamper into soap bars of desired shape, size and branding.

[0196] Soap compositions (E1 and E2) were prepared according to the present invention having starch levels 11 wt% and 17 wt% respectively by weight of the soap bar composition of the present invention, were prepared using the formulation as shown in Table 1 and formulation E3 was outside the scope of the present invention in which starch was absent. All the soap bar compositions had hydroxystearic acid.

[0197] The compositions E1 to E3 were evaluated for clinical dermatological assessment, gives mean CFB- change from baseline values and also consumer testing based on the scale of 1 to 5 based on the consumer perception.

[0198] GLOW & RADIANCE - COMPOSITE GLOW SCALE

[0199] Glow & Radiance is assessed based on the method as provided in (Kumari R et al. Int J Res Dermatol. 2022 Nov;8(6):593-600). A double blind randomised clinical study was performed under dermatologist supervision and evaluated by a dermatologist. This included panelists from Fitzpatrick scale 3 to 5 and with dark spots as per dermatologist discretion. Panelists were provided a wash off period to acclimatise them and the study duration extended from a minimum of 1 week to a maximum of 12 weeks. Dermatologists used in this study were trained and validated for the evaluation skills. The four visual skin attributes which mainly impact the G&R assessment were identified to be glow, clarity, evenness of skin tone and spot reduction Scale and calculations- The “multiparametric composite G&R scale” is based on the visual perception of, glow, clarity, evenness of skin tone and spot reduction. Each parameter is independently assessed between (1-5) with a provision of intermediate scoring system. The scale is inclusive of all skin colors and ethnicities. The sensitivity of the scale has been validated with various skin products on skin of colour for visual representation of the scale on skin of colour population).

[0200] Skin Tone Unevenness- The subjects reported for assessment were instructed to wash their face and forearm with water and acclimatized at the testing center. Post acclimatization the subjects are assessed by trained dermatologists using Skin Tone Evenness Scale, which is based on the assessment of skin color variation across the test area. The skin tone evenness is scaled between 1 - 5 where lower value indicates uneven skin tone and higher value indicates even skin tone. Skin tone evenness is a result of phenotypic changes that is mostly marginal and difficult to perceive and statistically significant increase in the skin tone evenness score observed post product use is an indication of significant improvement in skin tone evenness.

[0201] Skin Clarity - The subjects reported for assessment were instructed to wash their face and forearm with water and acclimatized at the testing center. Post acclimatization the subjects are assessed by trained dermatologists using Skin Clarity Scale, which is based on the reflectance / luminance assessment. The skin clarity is scaled between 1- 5 where lower value indicates unclear skin and higher value indicates clear skin. Skin clarity is a result of phenotypic changes that is mostly marginal and difficult to perceive, Statistically significant increase in the skin clarity score observed post product use is an indication of improvement in skin clarity.

[0202] Spot Fading- The subjects reported for assessment were instructed to wash their face and forearm with water and acclimatized at the testing center. Post acclimatization the subjects are assessed by trained dermatologists using Spot Reduction Scale. The spot reduction is scaled between 1- 5 where lower value indicates no change in the spot and higher value indicates perceivable reduction or fading in the spot being assessed. Spot reduction is a result of phenotypic changes that is mostly marginal and difficult to perceive, statistically significant increase in the spot reduction score observed post product use is an indication of spot fading.

[0203] Consumer Trials

[0204] Consumers of different diaspora and of different starting skin type were used with different ethnicities. Studies done on more than a 1000 consumers across geographies showed preference for products with the soap compositions E1 to E3 within 1 week of use of the products. This included parameters of glow, soft and smooth skin, Mild and gentle on skin etc . Analysis was done using industry standard statistical methods. An extract of data from a single market cluster is given in Table 1. The scale was 1 to 5, with 1 meaning disagree strongly and 5 meaning agree strongly based on the following questions: i. Is the soap mild and gentle on my skin? ii. Does the soap makes my skin soft and smooth? iii. Does the soap give a beautiful glow to my skin?

[0205] Table 2:

[0206] It is clear from the data as presented above that the compositions E1 and E2 prepared according to the present invention show synergy and significantly better results in terms of improved skin benefits such as glow and radiance of skin, evenness of skin tone, skin clarity and spot fading as opposed to E3 where only starch is absent. Further the consumer trial data also showed that the consumers preferred the soap compositions of the present invention namely E1 and E2 than the composition E3 which is a similar composition but out of the scope of the present invention.

[0207] Liquid cleansing composition:

[0208] Chelating agent was solubilized in water medium followed by addition of solid non-soap surfactants like Sodium Lauryl Sulphate and Cocamide MEA at 70-80°C until solubilized under stirring, followed further by addition of other liquid non-soap surfactants. Rheology modifying acrylate polymer was dispersed in water followed by polymer neutralization. Preservative, colourants, fragrance and other skin benefit aids were added. Starch was then added pre dispersed in glycerine slurry under rapid stirring and final adjustment of viscosity with electrolytes.

[0209] Starch was sourced from AGRANA STARKE- STARKINA NATURAL which is 100 % native potato starch, of EU-origin, typically soured from austria and the czech republic. Maize was also sourced from AGRANA STARKE- MAISITA 9040- 100 % native maize starch, of EU- origin, typically sourced from Austria, Slovakia and Hungary. Rice was sourced from AGRANA STARKE- REISITA NATURAL- 100 % native rice starch.

[0210] Examples E1 to E3 were prepared according to the methodology as given above. E1 was prepared without a rheology modifying agent and having 12-Hydroxystearic acid (12HSA) but without starch. E2 had acrylate polymer as rheology modifying agent, starch but no 12-HSA, while E3 had acrylate polymer as rheology modifying agent, 12-HSA and starch. The compositions E1 to E3 were used for clinical study for glow and radiance, skin texture, skin tone unevenness, skin clarity, skin hydration, spot lightening, anti-pigmentation and skin redness.

[0211] Table 1

[0212] Example 2: Clinical study method and protocol:

[0213] GLOW & RADIANCE - COMPOSITE GLOW SCALE

[0214] Glow & Radiance is assessed based on the method as provided in (Kumari R et al. Int J Res Dermatol. 2022 Nov;8(6):593-600). A double blind randomised clinical study was performed under dermatologist supervision and evaluated by a dermatologist. This included panellists from Fitzpatrick scale 3 to 6 and with dark spot as per dermatologist discretion. Panellists were provided a wash off period to acclimatise them, and the study duration extended from a minimum of 1 week to a maximum of 6 weeks. Dermatologists used in this study were trained and validated for the evaluation skills. The four visual skin attributes which mainly impact the G&R assessment were identified to be texture, evenness of skin tone, clarity and hydration.

[0215] Scale and calculations- The “multiparametric composite G&R scale” is based on the visual perception of, glow, clarity, evenness of skin tone and spot reduction. Each parameter is independently assessed between (1-5) with a provision of intermediate scoring system. The scale is inclusive of all skin colors and ethnicities. The sensitivity of the scale has been validated with various skin products on skin of colour for visual representation of the scale on skin of colour population).

[0216] Skin Texture - The subjects reported for assessment were instructed to wash their face and forearm with water and acclimatized at the testing centre. Post acclimatization the subjects are assessed by trained dermatologists using Skin Texture Scale, which is based on the visible assessment of skin texture variation across the test area. The skin texture is scaled between 1- 5 where lower value indicates skin roughness and higher value indicates skin smoothness. Skin texture shows a transient effect in presence of a topical application, but it may or may not be a stable change and statistically significant increase in the skin texture score observed post product use is an indication of significant improvement in skin texture. Skin Tone Unevenness- The subjects reported for assessment were instructed to wash their face and forearm with water and acclimatized at the testing centre. Post acclimatization the subjects are assessed by trained dermatologists using Skin Tone Evenness Scale, which is based on the assessment of skin color variation across the test area. The skin tone evenness is scaled between 1 - 5 where lower value indicates uneven skin tone and higher value indicates even skin tone. Skin tone evenness is a result of phenotypic changes that is mostly marginal and difficult to perceive and statistically significant increase in the skin tone evenness score observed post product use is an indication of significant improvement in skin tone evenness.

[0217] Skin Clarity - The subjects reported for assessment were instructed to wash their face and forearm with water and acclimatized at the testing center. Post acclimatization the subjects are assessed by trained dermatologists using Skin Clarity Scale, which is based on the reflectance / luminance assessment. The skin clarity is scaled between 1- 5 where lower value indicates unclear skin and higher value indicates clear skin. Skin clarity is a result of phenotypic changes that is mostly marginal and difficult to perceive, statistically significant increase in the skin clarity score observed post product use is an indication of improvement in skin clarity.

[0218] Skin Hydration - The subjects reported for assessment were instructed to wash their face and forearm with water and acclimatized at the testing centre. Post acclimatization the subjects are assessed by trained dermatologists using a Skin Hydration Scale, which is based on the visual moisturization assessment. The skin hydration is scaled between 1- 5 where lower value indicates dry skin and higher value indicates moisturized skin. Skin hydration levels are very easily differentiated as the skin shows significant results with any kind of topical treatment including water having a transient effect on the level of skin hydration. Statistically significant increase in the skin hydration score observed post product use is an indication of improvement in skin hydration.

[0219] Spot Lightening, Anti-Pigmentation and Skin Redness - The subjects reported for assessment were instructed to wash their face and forearm with water and acclimatized at the testing centre. Post acclimatization the subjects are assessed by Antera 3D image analyser for L* improvement on selected spots on face and reduction in melanin content, Haemoglobin intensity on forearm. The improvement in spot L* value indicates spot lightening or fading of spot being assessed and reduction in melanin content, haemoglobin intensity indicates reduction in skin pigmentation and redness. Statistically significant increase in the Spot L* and reduction in melanin content, haemoglobin intensity observed post product use is an indication of spot fading, anti-pigmentation and reduction in skin redness. Table 2

[0220] Compositions E1 and E3 were compared by dermatological assessment and image analysis to give a mean CFB - change from baseline value which are analyzed using appropriate statistical tools for glow and radiance, skin texture, skin clarity and skin hydration. It was observed that increase in respective parameter values are statistically significant for E3 as compared with E1 at a confidence limit of 95%. Table s

[0221] Compositions E2 and E3 were compared by dermatological assessment and image analysis to give a mean CFB - change from baseline value which are analyzed using appropriate statistical tools for glow and radiance, skin texture, skin clarity and skin hydration. It was observed that increase in respective parameter values are statistically significant for E3 as compared with E1 at a confidence limit of 95%.

Claims

Claims:1 . A topical skin care composition comprising: i. 0.0001 wt% to 5 wt.% PPAR activator; ii. 0.01 to 40 wt% complex carbohydrate comprising starch; and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle selected from water, oil, water thickened with a polymer or an emulsion and a silicone system; wherein the PPAR activator is 10- hydroxystearic acid or 12- hydroxystearic acid or combination thereof; and wherein the starch is in native and ungelatinized form in the composition.

2. A composition according to claim 1 , the topical skin composition comprises polyol in the range from 0.1 to 10 wt% by weight of the topical skin composition.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the complex carbohydrate comprises at least 50 wt% starch by weight of the complex carbohydrate.

4. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 3, wherein particle size of starch ranges between 2-70pm.

5. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 4, wherein the composition comprises 0.1 to 3 wt% chelating agent by weight of the topical skin composition.

6. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 5, wherein the composition comprises a 0.01 to 10 wt% rheology modifying agent by weight of the topical skin composition, the rheology modifying agent selected from thickening polymer and an electrolyte salt or combination of both.

7. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 6, wherein the topical skin composition comprises non-soap surfactant in the range from 0.01 to 40 wt% by weight of the topical skin composition.

8. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 7, wherein the composition comprises a preservative in the range of 0.1 to 5 wt% by weight of the topical skin composition.

9. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 8, wherein the composition comprises soap in the range of 0.01 to 40wt% by weight of the topical skin composition.

10. Use of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in topical skin composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 9, for providing glow to the skin as compared to a topical skin composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch; wherein the PPAR activator is 10- hydroxystearic acid or 12- hydroxy stearic acid or combination thereof; andwherein the starch is in native and ungelatinized form in the composition.

11. Use of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in topical skin composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 9, for providing even skin tone as compared to a topical skin composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch; wherein the PPAR activator is 10- hydroxystearic acid or 12- hydroxystearic acid or combination thereof; and wherein the starch is in native and ungelatinized form in the composition.

12. Use of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in topical skin composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 9, for providing skin clarity to the as compared to a topical skin composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch; wherein the PPAR activator is 10- hydroxystearic acid or 12- hydroxystearic acid or combination thereof; and wherein the starch is in native and ungelatinized form in the composition.

13. Use of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in topical skin composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 9, for skin spot fading as compared to a topical skin composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch; wherein the PPAR activator is 10- hydroxystearic acid or 12- hydroxystearic acid or combination thereof; and wherein the starch is in native and ungelatinized form in the composition.

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