Composition comprising at least one extract of a plant of the family of the fagaceae, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid or derivatives thereof and at least one phosphonic derivative

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of at least one plant of the family of the Fagaceae, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof, and at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I) R-[O-P(O)(OH)2]n where R represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which is in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, and also the use of said composition, for treating and / or preventing oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily and / or the associated aesthetic flaws of the skin.

Description

Composition comprising at least one extract of a plant of the family of the Fagaceae, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid or derivatives thereof and at least one phosphonic derivative

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of the care of keratin materials, in particular skin care, and more particularly the care of oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily and also the aesthetic skin flaws associated with this kind of skin.

[0002] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of at least one plant of the family of the Fagaceae, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof, and at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I). The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which is in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, for treating and / or preventing oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily and / or the associated aesthetic flaws of the skin. The present invention also relates to the cosmetic, in particular non-therapeutic, use of a composition according to the invention for treating and / or preventing oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily and / or the associated aesthetic flaws of the skin.Prior art

[0003] Sebum normally constitutes a moisturizing agent for the epidermis and can be involved in the homeostasis of the epidermis, and in particular in the proliferation and / or differentiation of epidermal cells.

[0004] It is the natural product of the sebaceous gland, which constitutes an appendage of the pilosebaceous unit. It is essentially a more or less complex mixture of lipids. Conventionally, the sebaceous gland produces squalene, triglycerides, aliphatic waxes, cholesterol waxes and, possibly, free cholesterol (Stewart, M.E., Semin. Dermatol. 11, 100-105 (1992)). The action of bacterial lipases converts a variable proportion of the triglycerides formed into free fatty acids.

[0005] The sebocyte constitutes the competent cell of the sebaceous gland. The production of sebum is associated with a programme of terminal differentiation of this cell. During this differentiation, the metabolic activity of the sebocyte is essentially directed towards the biosynthesis of lipids (lipogenesis) and more precisely towards fatty acid neosynthesis.

[0006] Oily or hyperseborrhoeic skin is characterized in particular by excessive secretion and excretion of sebum. Conventionally, a sebum level greater than 200 µg / cm2measured on the forehead is considered to be characteristic of such oily skin. Such skin is often associated with dilated pores. The appearance and / or the visibility of the pores is also a characteristic of oily skin. The shininess of the skin is also associated with dilation of the pores, hence the interest in finding active agents for reducing the size of dilated pores, a manifestation perceived as skin imperfections or aesthetic flaws.

[0007] Such skin is also often associated with a thick skin grain, a modification of the surface of the skin which may be subsequent to a desquamation defect, such as a state of roughness of the skin, or an uneven relief, manifestations perceived as skin imperfections or aesthetic flaws.

[0008] To combat hyperseborrhoea, various compounds have already been proposed, which, by topical application to the skin, are capable of reducing the lipogenesis of the sebocytes and consequently of limiting the production of sebum. The treatments currently available with regard to hyperseborrhoea are not completely satisfactory, in particular from the viewpoint of the side effects which are frequently associated therewith, such as irritative side effects with certain topical agents, for instance retinoids and benzoyl peroxides.

[0009] There therefore remains a need to have available novel active agents capable of exerting a beneficial cosmetic action on oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily and / or associated aesthetic flaws of the skin, in particular a beneficial cosmetic action on the skin imperfections.Disclosure of the invention

[0010] The aim of the present invention is to solve the abovementioned technical problems.

[0011] The applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that a composition comprising an extract of at least one plant of the family of the Fagaceae, such as an extract of the buds ofFagus sylvatica, two α-hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, a β-hydroxy acid such as salicylic acid, and a phosphonic derivative such as phytic acid allows better inhibition of the production of lipids by sebocytes compared with each of the compounds taken separately or with such a composition in the absence of lactic acid. The composition according to the invention thus proves useful for preventing and / or treating, in an effective manner, oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily and / or aesthetic flaws of the skin associated, in particular, with skin imperfections.

[0012] The composition according to the invention additionally exhibits desquamating properties.

[0013] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to improve the radiance of the skin, the homogeneity of the complexion, and the softness of the skin, and to reduce the size of the pores of the skin.Summary of the invention

[0014] A first subject of the present invention is therefore a composition, in particular cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of at least one plant of the family of the Fagaceae, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof, and at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I)

[0015] (I)

[0016] where R represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10.

[0017] A second subject of the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which is in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, for treating and / or preventing oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily and / or the associated aesthetic flaws of the skin.

[0018] A third subject of the invention is the cosmetic, in particular non-therapeutic, use of a composition according to the invention for treating and / or preventing oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily and / or the associated aesthetic flaws of the skin.

[0019] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge on reading the detailed description that follows.Definitions

[0020] The term "keratin materials" is understood to mean the skin of the body or of the face, the lips, the mucous membranes, the eyelashes, the nails and the hair, of a human being.

[0021] The term "skin" is understood to mean all of the skin of the body and the scalp of a human being and preferably the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, and hands, or even more preferably still the skin of the face (in particular of the forehead, nose, cheeks, lips and chin), neckline and neck.

[0022] The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is understood to denote a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin.

[0023] As used herein, the terms "treat" and "treatment" are understood to denote the alleviation of the symptoms associated with a specific condition and / or the elimination of said symptoms and also the complete disappearance of the condition in question.

[0024] In the context of the present invention, the terms "prevent" and "prevention" denote the reduction, to a lesser degree, of the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon.

[0025] The term "topical use or application" is understood to mean the use or application on / to the surface of the keratin materials in question, preferably on / to the surface of the skin in question.Detailed descriptionComposition

[0026] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of at least one plant of the family of the Fagaceae, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof, and at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I):

[0027] (I)

[0028] where R represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10.

[0029] Extract of at least one plant of the family of the Fagaceae

[0030] The family of the Fagaceae, formerly Cupuliferae, groups together dicotyledonous plants; it comprises 7 to 9 genera, the best-known beingCastanea(chestnut),Fagus(beech), andQuercus(oak).

[0031] More particularly, the genusFagus(beech) includes around ten species of beech in Europe, Asia and America. The most widespread species in Europe isFagus sylvatica.

[0032] Advantageously, said extract is an extract of at least one plant of the genusFagus; more preferentially, said extract is an extract of at least one plant chosen from the speciesFagus crenata,Fagus engleriana,Fagus grandifolia,Fagus hayatae,Fagus japonica,Fagus longipetiolata,Fagus lucida,Fagus orientalis,Fagus sinensis, andFagus sylvatica; better still, said extract is an extract of at least one plant of the speciesFagus sylvatica, such asFagus sylvaticaL.

[0033] Advantageously, said extract of at least one plant is an extract of a plant part chosen from the bark, the leaves, the branches, and the buds, preferably the buds.

[0034] More preferentially, said extract of at least one plant is an extract of one or more buds of a plant of the speciesFagus sylvatica.

[0035] More preferentially still, said extract of at least one plant is an extract of one or more buds of a plant of the speciesFagus sylvaticaL.

[0036] Said extract may be obtained from a preliminary step of stabilization, in particular by Ultra High Frequency (UHF), of the harvested plant or plant part, preferably the buds, such as that described in European patent EP 0470017 (Gattefossé SA, corresponding to the American patent US 6270773, Pourrat et al.), having the title: Process for stabilizing vegetable plants.

[0037] This stabilization step thus makes it possible to guarantee that the composition of the final extract is the same as that of the fresh plant.

[0038] Any extraction method known to those skilled in the art may be used to prepare an extract according to the invention.

[0039] As extract suitable for the invention, mention may be made of aqueous extracts, alcoholic extracts or extracts using an organic solvent.

[0040] The term "aqueous solvent" is understood to mean any solvent constituted totally or partially of water. Mention may thus be made of water itself, aqueous-alcoholic solvents in any proportion or also solvents constituted of water and a compound such as propylene glycol in any proportion. Among the alcoholic solvents, mention may in particular be made of ethanol.

[0041] The extraction may be performed at ambient temperature, under cold conditions or by heating between 40°C and 100°C.

[0042] An extraction method suitable for the invention may comprise a first step of grinding a plant or part of a plant, such as the buds, of the family of the Fagaceae, preferably a plant or part of a plant, such as the buds, of the genusFagus, better still a plant or part of a plant, such as the buds, of the speciesFagus sylvatica, in an aqueous solution under cold conditions, followed by a second step of removing suspended particles from the aqueous solution resulting from the first step, and a third step of sterilizing the aqueous solution resulting from the second step. This aqueous solution corresponds to an extract.

[0043] The extract obtained may then be freeze-dried by any conventional freeze drying methods. A powder is thus obtained, which can be used directly or else mixed into an appropriate solvent before use.

[0044] Mention may for example be made of an extract of beech tree buds (Fagus sylvatica) such as the one sold under the name Gatuline RC SPO Bio® by Gattefossé.

[0045] Said extract of at least one plant of the family of the Fagaceae may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.00001% to 1% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.00002% to 0.5% by dry weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.00003% to 0.1% by dry weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.α-Hydroxy acids

[0046] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "at least two α-hydroxy acids" is understood to mean at least two distinct α-hydroxy acids.

[0047] Advantageously, said at least two α-hydroxy acids are chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof; preferably, said at least two α-hydroxy acids are chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof; better still, said at least two α-hydroxy acids are lactic acid and glycolic acid.

[0048] It being understood that the composition according to the invention may comprise other α-hydroxy acids in addition to said two α-hydroxy acids.

[0049] Mention may in particular be made of the glycolic acid sold under the name Glycolic Acid 70% (70% glycolic acid in water) by Guangan Chengxin Chemical.

[0050] Mention may also be made of the lactic acid sold under the name PURAC UltraPure (90% lactic acid in water) by Corbion Produtos Renováveis.

[0051] Said at least two α-hydroxy acids may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.03% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] More preferentially, when said at least two α-hydroxy acids are glycolic acid and lactic acid, then:

[0053] - glycolic acid is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 7.5% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.014% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0054] - lactic acid is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 7.5% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.016% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.β-Hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof

[0055] Advantageously, the β-hydroxy acids are chosen from salicylic acid and the salicylic acid derivatives of the following formula (II):

[0056] (II)

[0057] in which:

[0058] - the radical Ra denotes:

[0059] - a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0060] - an unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, containing one or more double bonds which may be conjugated;

[0061] - an aromatic ring bonded to the carbonyl radical directly or by means of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms;

[0062] it being possible for said groups to be substituted with one or more identical or different substituents chosen from: (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0063] - Rb is a hydroxyl group;

[0064] and also the salts thereof derived from a mineral or organic base and mixtures thereof.

[0065] According to one embodiment, the radical Ra denotes:

[0066] - a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; or

[0067] - an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds;

[0068] it being possible for said hydrocarbon-based chains to be substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from: (a) halogen atoms; (b) the trifluoromethyl group; (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0069] and also the salts thereof obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.

[0070] The compounds that are more particularly preferred are those in which the radical Ra is a C3-C11 alkyl group. Among the compounds of formula (II) that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of: 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and the corresponding salts thereof.

[0071] The salicylic acid compound is advantageously chosen from salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid. 5-n-Octanoylsalicylic acid will more particularly be used. 5-n-Octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid) is provided under the name Mexoryl SAB® by Chimex.

[0072] Examples of mineral bases that may be mentioned include alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonium hydroxide. Among the organic bases, mention may be made of amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts, for instance those described in the patent FR 2 607 498, are particularly advantageous. The compounds of formula (II) that can be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6 159 479, US 5 558 871, FR 2 581 542, FR 2 607 498, US 4 767 750, EP 378 936, US 5 267 407, US 5 667 789, US 5 580 549 and EP A-570 230.

[0073] Preferably, said at least one β-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid such as that sold under the name Salicylic Acid by JQC (Huayin) Pharmaceutical.

[0074] Said β-hydroxy acid(s) and / or the derivatives thereof may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.001% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Phosphonic derivative

[0075] An alkyl radical is understood to mean a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 7 carbon atoms.

[0076] Preferably, the alkyl radical is not substituted.

[0077] More preferentially, the alkyl radical is saturated and cyclic or linear.

[0078] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkyl radical is the cyclohexyl radical.

[0079] Preferably, n is an integer between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7. Preferably, n = 6.

[0080] Preferably, the phosphonic derivatives of formula (I) are such that R represents a saturated and cyclic or linear alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 7 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10, preferably between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7, such as 6.

[0081] Preferably, the phosphonic derivative of formula (I) is phytic acid.

[0082] By way of example, mention may be made of the compound sold by Tsuno Rice Fine Chemicals

[0083] under the name "Phytic Acid".

[0084] Said phosphonic derivative may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.0005% to 1% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Physiologically acceptable medium

[0085] In addition to the compounds indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0086] The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is understood to denote a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin.

[0087] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support onto which the composition has to be applied, and also to the appearance under which the composition has to be packaged.

[0088] The cosmetic compositions of the invention are preferably in the form of an aqueous phase and a non-emulsified fatty phase, particularly in the form of a two-phase composition.

[0089] The physiologically acceptable medium may comprise water and optionally one or more water-miscible solvents.

[0090] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least 20% by weight of water, in particular at least 40% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0091] Preferentially, the composition according to the invention has a content of water ranging from 20% to 98% by weight, better still from 40% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a content of water ranging from 75% to 98% by weight, better still from 80% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] .

[0094] Among the water-miscible (at ambient temperature - 25°C) organic solvents, mention may be made of alcohols, in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, and glycerol.

[0095] The water-miscible organic solvent(s) may be present in a concentration of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] The composition according to the invention may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one fatty substance such as one or more oils.

[0098] According to one embodiment, the composition may comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight of fatty substance, preferably oil(s), and preferably from 0.5% to 40% of fatty substance, preferably oil(s), by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0099] In a preferred embodiment, the composition may comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight of fatty substance, preferably oil(s), and preferably from 0.5% to 20% of fatty substance, preferably oil(s), by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0100] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" denotes a water-immiscible compound which is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).

[0101] The term "immiscible" is understood to mean that the mixing of the same amount of water and oil, after stirring, does not result in a stable solution comprising only a single phase, under the abovementioned temperature and pressure conditions. Observation is performed by eye or using a phase-contrast microscope, if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after sufficient stirring with a Rayneri blender to produce a vortex within the mixture (as a guide, 200 to 1000 rpm), the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at ambient temperature before observation.

[0102] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" is understood to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. A hydrocarbon-based oil thus consequently does not comprise any silicon or fluorine atoms.

[0103] The term "silicone oil" denotes an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0104] The term "fluoro oil" denotes an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0105] The term "non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil" is understood to mean a hydrocarbon-based oil comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is preferably non-aromatic (also called a hydrocarbon).

[0106] The term "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" denotes hydrocarbon-based oils mainly comprising hydrogen and carbon atoms and one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

[0107] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from volatile oils and non-volatile oils.

[0108] Volatile oils

[0109] The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0110] According to one embodiment of the invention, the volatile oils are such that the flash points are less than 120°C and the vapour pressure is less than 5 Pa; more particularly, their flash point is less than 90°C and their vapour pressure is greater than 1 Pa; even more preferentially, their flash point is less than or equal to 60°C and their vapour pressure is greater than 5 Pa; and more preferentially still, their flash point is less than 60°C and their vapour pressure is greater than 100 Pa.

[0111] The volatile oil(s) may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as:

[0112] hydrocarbon-based oils having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular:

[0113] - branched C8-C16 alkanes such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as C8-C9 Isoparaffin, C13-C16 Isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, alone or as mixtures, preferably isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), for example sold by Ineos, more preferentially isododecane;

[0114] - linear C6-C16 alkanes, alone or as mixtures, for example such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, or n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059 by Cognis, and mixtures thereof, and also mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) such as Cetiol Ultimate® from BASF;

[0115] - volatile, non-aromatic, cyclic C5-C12 alkanes;

[0116] - short-chain esters having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isobutyl acetate, for example sold by Solvay, Dow or Oxea;

[0117] - volatile carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils of structure R'1-O-C(O)-O-R'2, in which R'1 and R'2, which may be identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a linear C4-C8 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. Preferably, R'1 and R'2 denote a linear butyl alkyl radical, a pentyl group. Advantageously, the carbonate hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from dibutyl carbonate and dipentyl carbonate;

[0118] - volatile ether oils of formula R1-O-R2 in which R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a linear or branched C4-C8 alkyl group. It is preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. Linear alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a butyl group and a pentyl group. Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group and a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group.

[0119] The volatile oil(s) may be chosen from volatile silicone oils such as:

[0120] silicone oils comprising, in particular, from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicone oils optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Mention may particularly be made of dodecamethylpentasiloxane, such as the reference DM-Fluid-2cs sold by Shin-Etsu, or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, such as the reference Xiameter PMX-0246 Cyclohexasiloxane sold by Dow Chemical.

[0121] Non-volatile oils

[0122] The term "non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil having a vapour pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure which is non-zero and is less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapour pressure may be measured according to the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure of the oil (OECD 104 standard).

[0123] The non-volatile oil(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural origin.

[0124] Among the non-volatile oils, mention may be made of:

[0125] - non-volatile fluoro oils, which may in particular be chosen from among fluorinated polyethers, and also from fluorosilicone oils and fluoro silicones as described in document EP-A-847752;

[0126] - non-volatile silicone oils, which may in particular be chosen from the non-volatile silicones having the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone; and also mixtures thereof.

[0127] These products are notably sold under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane) and Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (phenyl trimethicone) by Dow Corning; diphenyl dimethicones such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d and KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A sold by Shin-Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20 sold by Wacker Chemie (trimethylsiloxy phenyl dimethicone), alone or as mixtures;

[0128] - non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, which may in particular be chosen from linear or branched compounds of mineral or synthetic origin, for instance: i) liquid paraffin, ii) squalane such as the reference Neossance Squalane sold by Amyris, or isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly C14-C30 and more particularly C15-C28 hydrocarbons, such as the mixtures having for example the following INCI names: (C15-C19)Alkane, (C18-C21)Alkane, (C21-C28)Alkane, for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by Seppic, Emogreen L15 sold by Seppic, iv) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for instance the products of the Indopol range sold by Ineos Oligomers, products having the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE; v) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, preferably hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for instance the non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by Nippon Oil Fats, vi) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for instance the non-volatile compounds of the Puresyn® range sold by ExxonMobil), vii) decene / butene copolymers, butene / isobutene copolymers, and viii) mixtures thereof;

[0129] - non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oils, which may be chosen from:

[0130] o saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, which are liquid at ambient temperature (25°C), preferably monoalcohols. Advantageously, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms; preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly such as lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof;

[0131] o triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and particularly from C18 to C36, it being possible for these oils to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; by way of example, mention may particularly be made of heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides; vegetable oils such as wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, peanut oil, coconut oil, argan oil, passionflower oil, kaya oil; the liquid fraction of shea butter; and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; and also mixtures thereof;

[0132] o linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of formula R-C(O)-OR' in which R-C(O)-O- represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, the total number of carbon atoms advantageously being at least 10. As examples of such esters, mention may for example be made of isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, coco caprylate / caprate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethylhexanoate) and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate or myristyl myristate; and mixtures thereof;

[0133] o hydroxylated esters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;

[0134] o aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyloctyl salicylate; linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;

[0135] o esters of C24-C28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols such as triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tris(2-decyltetradecanoate), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyltetradecanoate);

[0136] o polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those with the INCI name Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer or Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer; the polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and of diol dimer, such as dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate;

[0137] o synthetic ethers of formula R1-O-R2 in which R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C6-C24 alkyl group, with preference a C6-C18 alkyl group, and preferably a C8-C12 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. Linear alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group. Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, a 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group and a 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group. Cyclic alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonyl phenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures thereof. Among the non-volatile ether oils, mention may be made of dicaprylyl ether, such as the reference Cetiol OE sold by BASF;

[0138] o carbonates of formula R8-O-C(O)-O-R9, with R8 and R9, which may be identical or different, representing a linear or branched C4 to C12 and preferentially C6 to C10 alkyl chain; the carbonate oils may be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), sold under the name Cetiol CC® by BASF, bis(2-ethylhexyl) carbonate, sold under the name Tegosoft DEC® by Evonik, dipropylheptyl carbonate (Cetiol 4 AII from BASF), dibutyl carbonate; dineopentyl carbonate; dipentyl carbonate; dineoheptyl carbonate; diheptyl carbonate; diisononyl carbonate; or dinonyl carbonate, and preferably dioctyl carbonate;

[0139] o vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer (INCI name);

[0140] o higher C6-C26 fatty acids which are liquid at ambient temperature (25°C), such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; and

[0141] o mixtures thereof.

[0142] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition used in the context of the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of fatty substance in the emulsion may range from 1% to 90% by weight and preferably from 2% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] The composition may comprise at least one emulsifier. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic and non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a coemulsifier. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).

[0144] The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.01% by weight of emulsifier and / or coemulsifier, preferably less than 0.001% by weight of emulsifier and / or coemulsifier, relative to the total weight of the composition; better still, the composition according to the invention is completely free (0%) of emulsifier and / or coemulsifier.

[0146] The composition according to the invention preferably has a pH ranging from 3.0 to 7.0, more preferentially from 3.5 to 6.5, and better still from 4.0 to 5.5.Additives

[0147] A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example chosen from antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0148] Such additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] The composition according to the invention may be in any presentation form normally used in the cosmetics field.

[0150] It may particularly be in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, which is optionally gelled, a dispersion of the lotion type, which is preferably two-phase, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel, a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, particularly by means of spherules, it being possible for these spherules to be polymer particles or, better still, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or non-ionic type, or else in the form of a powder, a serum, a paste or a flexible rod or a stick. It may be of solid, pasty or more or less fluid liquid consistency. It may optionally be applied to the skin in aerosol form. It may also be in solid form, for example in stick form.

[0151] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a two-phase composition, more preferentially still in the form of a two-phase lotion.

[0152] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "two-phase composition" is understood to mean a composition constituted of two distinct phases, in particular an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are distinct and not emulsified one in the other at rest. They differ from emulsions in that, at rest, the two phases are distinct instead of being emulsified one in the other. The use of these two-phase compositions requires prior stirring in order to form an emulsion, the latter having to be of sufficient quality and stability to allow homogeneous application of the two phases to the skin or keratin material where it is applied. At rest, said phases must separate rapidly and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being better known under the term "phase separation" or "demixing".

[0153] Thus, the composition may comprise any constituent normally employed in the topical application and administration envisaged.

[0154] A composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion, particularly obtained by dispersion of an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W / O) or of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or also of multiple emulsion (W / O / W or O / W / O). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

[0155] Said composition is preferably employed, in the context of a use or a method for treatment according to the invention, topically.

[0156] The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to cosmetic supports of occlusive or non-occlusive type, intended to be applied locally to the skin. As non-limiting examples of cosmetic supports, mention may be made in particular of a patch, a wipe, a roll-on and a pen.

[0157] The composition may or may not be rinsed off after having been applied to the skin; preferably, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed off after having been applied to the skin.Use and method for treatment

[0158] The cosmetic compositions covered by the invention may be face care or body care products.

[0159] The compositions according to the invention are preferably cosmetic compositions intended for skin care.

[0160] These compositions may therefore be intended to be applied to the skin.

[0161] According to another of its subjects, the invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which is in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, for treating and / or preventing oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily and / or the associated aesthetic flaws of the skin.

[0162] A subject of the present invention is also the cosmetic, in particular non-therapeutic, use of a composition according to the invention for treating and / or preventing oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily and / or the associated aesthetic flaws of the skin.

[0163] A cosmetic use of the invention thus only addresses aesthetic flaws of the skin, and therefore does not exert any therapeutic effect.

[0164] The present invention is directed to a non-therapeutic cosmetic skin care use of an, in particular cosmetic, composition according to the invention.

[0165] The methods and uses implemented in the context of the present invention also relate to desquamation of the skin, improvement of the radiance of the skin, improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion, improvement of the softness of the skin, decrease in the roughness of the skin, decrease in skin microrelief, decrease in the size of the pores of the skin.

[0166] The term "care" is understood to mean non-therapeutic care capable of producing an aesthetic effect without, however, preventing or correcting a pathological dysfunction of the skin.

[0167] Throughout the patent application, the wording "comprising a" or "comprising an" means "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0168] Throughout the above description, unless otherwise mentioned, the term "between x and y" or "ranging from x to y" corresponds to an inclusive range, that is to say that the values x and y are included in the range.

[0169] In addition, the expression "at least one" should be understood as being synonymous with "one or more", unless otherwise specified.

[0170] The invention will be illustrated in the non-limiting examples that follow. Unless otherwise stated, % are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] The compositions are prepared according to the usual methods of formulating cosmetic compositions.

[0172] The examples that follow are presented as nonlimiting illustrations of the invention. The compounds are, depending on the case, cited as the chemical names or as the CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook) names.

[0173] The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples that follow.Examples

[0174] Example 1: Evaluation of the inhibition of the production of lipids by sebocytes

[0175] A-Compounds tested

[0176] The compounds tested alone are given in Table 1 and the mixtures in Table 2.

[0177] Compounds testedStock solutionConcentrations testedFagus sylvaticabud extract (Gatuline RC SPO Bio® Gattefossé)*10% in the test medium0.003%Salicylic acid**10% in the test medium0.002%Glycolic acid***10% in the test medium0.02%Phytic acid****10% in the test medium0.003%Lactic acid*****10% in the test medium0.018%

[0178] * extract of beech tree buds (Fagus sylvatica) sold under the name Gatuline RC SPO Bio® by Gattefossé containing 1.2% by weight active material in water (98.5%) and sorbic acid (0.1%) and benzoic acid (0.2%).

[0179] ** salicylic acid sold under the name Salicylic Acid by JQC (Huayin) Pharmaceutical containing 100% by weight active material.

[0180] *** glycolic acid sold under the name Glycolic Acid 70% by Guangan Chengxin Chemical containing 70% by weight active material in water.

[0181] **** phytic acid sold by Tsuno Rice Fine Chemicals under the name Phytic Acid containing 50% by weight active material in water.

[0182] ***** lactic acid sold under the name PURAC by Corbion Produtos Renováveis containing 90% by weight active material in water.

[0183] CombinationsMixtures testedConcentrations testedMixture 1 (outside of the invention)Fagus sylvaticabud extract (Gatuline RC SPO Bio® Gattefossé) + Salicylic acid + Glycolic acid + Phytic acid.(F. sylvaticaex. + SAc + GAc + PAc)0.003%:0.002%:0.02%:0.003%Mixture 2 (according to the invention)Fagus sylvaticabud extract (Gatuline RC SPO Bio® Gattefossé) + Salicylic acid + Glycolic acid + Phytic acid + Lactic acid.(F. sylvaticaex. + SAc + GAc + PAc + LAc)0.003%:0.002%:0.02%:0.003%:0.018%

[0184] B-Materials and Methods

[0185] The sebocytes were seeded in a 96-well plate and cultured for 24 hours in a culture medium. The medium was then replaced with a test medium containing or not containing (control) the test compounds, the combinations or the reference compound (1 μM Olumacostat glasaretil) and the cells were pre-incubated for 4 hours. Then, the inducer (lipogenic mixture containing vitamin C, vitamin D3, insulin and calcium) was added and the cells were incubated for 7 days. At the midpoint, that is to say after 3 days of incubation, half of the medium was withdrawn and the treatments were repeated (including the lipogenic mixture stimulation). A non-stimulated control condition was implemented in parallel. All of the experimental conditions were performed in n = 3.

[0186] After incubation, the cells were rinsed, fixed and permeabilized. The lipid droplets contained in the cells were labelled with the aid of a Bodipy® specific fluorescent lipid probe (Invitrogen, ref. D3922) mainly labelling neutral lipids. In parallel, the cell nuclei were stained using a Hoechst 33258 solution (bisbenzimide, Sigma, ref. B1155). Image acquisition was carried out using an INCell Analyzer™ 2200 (GE Healthcare). Ten photos were taken per well for each labelling (x20 objective lens) and the labelling was quantified by measuring the fluorescence intensity normalized to the total number of cells (integration of digital data with Developer Toolbox 1.5, GE Healthcare software).

[0187] Statistical analysis was performed using GraphPad Prism software.

[0188] C- Results

[0189] The results are presented in Tables 3 and 4 below.

[0190]

[0191]

[0192] Conclusion: Mixture no. 2 according to the invention (Fagus sylvaticabud extract + salicylic acid + glycolic acid + phytic acid + lactic acid) exhibits a more powerful inhibitory effect (69% inhibition, see Table 3) compared to each of the compounds tested alone or compared with Mixture no. 1 not comprising lactic acid. These results thus show that the composition according to the invention exhibits better performance, in particular a synergistic effect for inhibiting the production of sebum by the sebocytes, and therefore proves useful for the prevention and / or treatment of oily skin.

[0193] Example 2: Clinical evaluation of a composition according to the invention

[0194] A-Composition evaluated

[0195] The two-phase lotion-type composition according to the invention was prepared according to conventional manufacturing conditions for those skilled in the art.

[0196] Composition according to the invention – Two-phase lotiongrams per 100 grams (%)Fatty phase3Aqueous phase97

[0197] Composition of the fatty phaseINCI name / Chemical namegrams per 100 grams (%)C15-19 ALKANEq.s. 100VEGETABLE OIL10.034ANTIOXIDANT0.3SOOTHING ACTIVE INGREDIENT6.66

[0198] Composition of the aqueous phaseINCI name / Chemical namegrams per 100 grams (%)WATERq.s. 100GLYCOLS4.2pH ADJUSTERq.s. pH 4.8SALICYLIC ACID**0.206PHYTIC ACID****0.31LACTIC ACID*****1.8319GLYCOLIC ACID***2.0618ANTIOXIDANT0.21FAGUS SYLVATICA BUD EXTRACT*3.1DESQUAMATING AGENT0.0001

[0199] * extract of beech tree buds (Fagus sylvatica) sold under the name Gatuline RC SPO Bio® by Gattefossé containing 1.2% by weight active material in water (98.5%) and sorbic acid (0.1%) and benzoic acid (0.2%).

[0200] ** salicylic acid sold under the name Salicylic Acid by JQC (Huayin) Pharmaceutical containing 100% by weight active material.

[0201] *** glycolic acid sold under the name Glycolic Acid 70% by Guangan Chengxin Chemical containing 70% by weight active material in water.

[0202] **** phytic acid sold by Tsuno Rice Fine Chemicalsunder the name Phytic Acid containing 50% by weight active material in water.

[0203] ***** lactic acid sold under the name PURAC by Corbion Produtos Renováveis containing 90% by weight active material in water.

[0204] B- Results

[0205] The composition according to the invention of the two-phase lotion type was evaluated on the skin condition of 60 women of Asian origin of phototypes II to V, applied twice daily for 6 weeks (42 days) to the bare skin of the face. The evaluation is performed using clinical scoring: 10-point scale (0: none to 9: severe).

[0206] The p-values were adjusted using Bonferroni's method for 3 comparisons in order to protect against type I errors (alpha = 0.05).

[0207] i. 10-point scale at D42

[0208] D0Mean ± standard deviationD42Mean ± standard deviationD42 – D0Mean ± SDUniformity of the skin complexion (n = 61)visual(0: very even to 9: uneven)4.36 ± 0.783.80 ± 0.87-0.56 ± 0.56Adjusted p-value(Bonferroni adjustment)WilcoxonS↓P<0.0001% variation- 12.8%Softness of the skin: Texture (n=61)tactile(0: very smooth to 9: not smooth)4.72 ± 0.664.02 ± 0.67-0.70 ± 0.53Adjusted p-value(Bonferroni adjustment)WilcoxonS↓P<0.0001% variation- 14.9%Radiance of the skin (n=62)visual(0: very radiant complexion to 9: dull complexion)4.16 ± 0.713.35 ± 0.83-0.81 ± 0.70Adjusted p-value(Bonferroni adjustment)WilcoxonS↓P<0.0001% variation-19.4%Visibility of the pores (n=60)size and number(0: no visible pores to 9: very visible pores)4.22 ± 0.983.82 ± 1.27-0.40 ± 0.64Adjusted p-value(Bonferroni adjustment)WilcoxonS↓P<0.0001% variation- 9.5%

[0209] ↓: statistically significant decrease in the scores

[0210] S: statistically significant comparison with p<0.05

[0211] NS: statistically non-significant comparison with p>0.05

[0212] ii. Counting of red and brown marks, at D42

[0213] D0Mean ± standard deviationD42Mean ± standard deviationD42 – D0Mean ± SDRed and brown marks (n = 46)9.11 ± 5.407.48 ± 5.47-1.63 ± 2.74Adjusted p-value(Bonferroni adjustment)StudentS↓P = 0.0004% variation- 17.9%

[0214] ↓: statistically significant decrease in the scores

[0215] S: statistically significant comparison with p<0.05

[0216] NS: statistically non-significant comparison with p>0.05

[0217] The results of these analyses show a statistically significant improvement in the uniformity of the complexion (more homogeneous complexion), in the softness of the skin (softer skin), in the radiance of the skin (more radiant complexion), in the visibility of the pores (less visible pores), and in the presence of red and brown marks (reduced red and brown marks) at D42 compared to D0.

Claims

Composition, in particular cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of at least one plant of the family of the Fagaceae, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof, and at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I)(I)where R represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10.Composition according to Claim 1, wherein said extract is an extract of at least one plant of the genusFagus; more preferentially, said extract is an extract of at least one plant chosen from the speciesFagus crenata,Fagus engleriana,Fagus grandifolia,Fagus hayatae,Fagus japonica,Fagus longipetiolata,Fagus lucida,Fagus orientalis,Fagus sinensis, andFagus sylvatica; better still, said extract is an extract of at least one plant of the speciesFagus sylvatica, such asFagus sylvaticaL.Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein said extract of at least one plant is an extract of a plant part chosen from the bark, the leaves, the branches, and the buds; more preferentially, said extract of at least one plant is an extract of one or more buds of a plant of the speciesFagus sylvatica; more preferentially still, said extract of at least one plant is an extract of one or more buds of a plant of the speciesFagus sylvaticaL.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said extract of at least one plant of the family of the Fagaceae is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.00001% to 1% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.00002% to 0.5% by dry weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.00003% to 0.1% by dry weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one β-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said β-hydroxy acid(s) and / or derivatives thereof is (are) present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.001% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least two α-hydroxy acids are chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof; preferably, said at least two α-hydroxy acids are chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof; better still, said at least two α-hydroxy acids are lactic acid and glycolic acid.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least two α-hydroxy acids are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.03% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least two α-hydroxy acids are glycolic acid and lactic acid.Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein:i. glycolic acid is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 7.5% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.014% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; andii. lactic acid is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 7.5% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.016% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I) is such that R represents a saturated and cyclic or linear alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 7 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10, preferably between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7, such as 6.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I) is phytic acid.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said phosphonic derivative is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.0005% to 1% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which is in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, for treating and / or preventing oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily and / or the associated aesthetic flaws of the skin.Cosmetic, in particular non-therapeutic, use of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, for treating and / or preventing oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily and / or the associated aesthetic flaws of the skin.

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