Dual-functional cosmetic composition having excellent potency retention and formulation stability of vitamin c and improved fragrance
A dual-functional cosmetic composition stabilizes ascorbic acid and ethyl ascorbyl ether without thickeners, achieving high retention rates and preventing discoloration, addressing the instability issues of functional ingredients in cosmetic formulations.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/KR2025/000722
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-02-01
- Filing Date
- 2025-01-13
- Publication Date
- 2025-08-07
AI Technical Summary
Functional ingredients in cosmetic compositions, such as ascorbic acid, are prone to oxidation and discoloration, leading to unstable formulations and reduced potency due to the use of thickeners or antioxidants that cause off-flavors.
A dual-functional cosmetic composition comprising ascorbic acid, ethyl ascorbyl ether, adenosine, tocopherol, ferulic acid, and polyols, without a thickener, to stabilize the active ingredients and maintain formulation stability and potency.
The composition effectively stabilizes active ingredients, maintaining their potency and preventing discoloration, with retention rates of 90% or higher for ascorbic acid and 98% or higher for ethyl ascorbyl ether at various temperatures, while avoiding off-flavors and skin irritation.
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Abstract
Description
A dual-functional cosmetic composition with excellent vitamin C activity retention rate and formulation stability and improved fragrance.
[0001] The present application relates to a dual-functional cosmetic composition.
[0002] Ascorbic acid not only has an excellent skin whitening effect by inhibiting melanin production, but also has various other benefits, such as improving wrinkles and preventing skin aging by controlling active oxygen generated by ultraviolet rays and other factors.
[0003] However, functional ingredients such as ascorbic acid have limitations in that they are easily oxidized or discolored, leading to unstable formulations and reduced potency in cosmetic compositions. Attempts to stabilize functional ingredients have been made to adjust the viscosity of cosmetic compositions or add antioxidants. However, these have been limited by issues such as reduced usability due to thickeners or the development of off-flavors due to the addition of antioxidants.
[0004] Accordingly, the present invention aims to provide a cosmetic composition that effectively stabilizes a functional active ingredient within a formulation, has an excellent usability by not using a thickener, and does not generate an off-flavor due to the addition of an antioxidant.
[0005] [Prior Art Literature]
[0006] (Patent Document) KR 10-2577421 B1
[0007] The purpose of this application is to provide a dual-functional cosmetic composition.
[0008] According to an embodiment of the present application, a dual-functional cosmetic composition is provided. The dual-functional cosmetic composition comprises a whitening functional ingredient, a wrinkle-improving functional ingredient, an antioxidant, a surfactant, and a polyol, wherein the whitening functional ingredient comprises ascorbic acid and ethyl ascorbyl ether, and the wrinkle-improving functional ingredient comprises adenosine, and may comprise purified water in an amount of 1 to 20 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0009] Additionally, the cosmetic composition may contain 3 to 30 parts by weight of the polyol relative to 1 part by weight of the purified water.
[0010] Additionally, the antioxidant may include one or more of tocopherol or ferulic acid.
[0011] Additionally, the antioxidant may not include glutathione.
[0012] Additionally, the cosmetic composition may contain 0.01 to 0.5 wt% of the tocopherol and 0.01 to 0.7 wt% of the ferulic acid based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0013] Additionally, the cosmetic composition may include octyldodeceth.
[0014] Additionally, the cosmetic composition may contain 0.01 to 4 wt% of the octyldodeceth based on the total weight of the composition.
[0015] Additionally, the polyol may include one or more of 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, glycerin, glycerol, isoprene glycol, sorbitol, xylitol, erythritol, fructose, lactose, mannitol, glucose, sucrose, maltose, or maltitol.
[0016] Additionally, the cosmetic composition may contain 55 to 86 wt% of the polyol based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0017] Additionally, the cosmetic composition may contain 0.1 to 25 wt% of the ascorbic acid based on the total weight of the composition.
[0018] Additionally, the cosmetic composition may contain 0.01 to 2 wt% of the ethyl ascorbyl ether based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0019] Additionally, the cosmetic composition may contain 0.01 to 1 wt% of the adenosine based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0020] Additionally, the cosmetic composition may not contain a thickening agent.
[0021] According to an embodiment of the present application, a cosmetic composition comprising a whitening functional ingredient, a wrinkle-improving functional ingredient, an antioxidant, a surfactant, a polyol, and purified water in specific contents, and simultaneously comprising purified water and polyol in a specific weight ratio, can effectively stabilize an active ingredient without a thickener, and can provide a cosmetic composition having excellent formulation stability and potency retention rate according to changes over time.
[0022] The effects that can be obtained in the embodiments of the present application are not limited to the effects mentioned above, and other effects not mentioned can be clearly understood by a person having ordinary skill in the technical field to which the present application belongs from the description below.
[0023] To facilitate a more thorough understanding of the drawings cited in this application, a brief description of the drawings is provided.
[0024] Figure 1 is a drawing showing the criteria for the degree of discoloration by evaluation score for evaluating the degree of discoloration of a cosmetic composition.
[0025] The structural or functional descriptions of the embodiments disclosed in this specification are merely illustrative for the purpose of explaining embodiments according to the technical concept of the present application. Furthermore, embodiments according to the technical concept of the present application may be implemented in various forms other than those disclosed herein. Furthermore, the technical concept of the present application is not limited to the embodiments described herein.
[0026] Among the properties mentioned in this specification, if the measurement temperature affects the properties, the properties are properties measured at room temperature and pressure, unless otherwise specified.
[0027] Unless otherwise specified, the properties mentioned in this specification may basically follow the SI unit system. For example, weight may use the kg unit, and length may use the m unit.
[0028] The term "room temperature" used herein refers to the natural temperature that is not heated or cooled, and may mean, for example, any temperature within the range of 10°C to 30°C, for example, a temperature that is about 15°C or higher, about 18°C or higher, about 20°C or higher, about 23°C or higher, about 27°C or lower, or 25°C. Unless specifically defined herein, the unit of temperature is Celsius (°C).
[0029] The term "relatively high temperature compared to room temperature" used in this specification means a temperature higher than the room temperature, and may mean, for example, a temperature within the range of 30°C to 50°C, for example, a temperature of about 35°C or higher, about 40°C or higher, or about 45°C or lower.
[0030] Among the properties mentioned in this specification, if the measurement pressure affects the property, the property is a property measured at atmospheric pressure unless otherwise specified. The term atmospheric pressure used in this specification refers to the natural pressure that is neither pressurized nor depressurized, and typically refers to atmospheric pressure within the range of approximately 700 mmHg to 800 mmHg.
[0031] The terms a to b used in this specification mean a and b inclusive and within the range between a and b. For example, including a to b by weight means including within the range of a to b by weight.
[0032] The terminology used in this specification is for the purpose of describing embodiments and is not intended to limit or restrict the present application. Singular expressions include plural expressions unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. Furthermore, numbers used in this specification (e.g., "first," "second," etc.) are merely identifiers used to distinguish one component from another.
[0033] In this specification, when it is said that a part includes a certain component, this does not mean that other components are excluded, but rather that other components may be included, unless specifically stated otherwise.
[0034] Furthermore, the term "or" in this application is intended to mean an inclusive "or" rather than an exclusive "or." That is, unless otherwise specified or clear from context, "X utilizes A or B" is intended to mean either of the natural inclusive permutations. That is, if X utilizes A; X utilizes B; or X utilizes both A and B, "X utilizes A or B" can apply to any of the above cases. Furthermore, the term "and / or" as used herein should be understood to refer to and encompass all possible combinations of one or more of the associated configurations listed.
[0035]
[0036] Hereinafter, exemplary embodiments according to the present application will be described in detail with reference to the contents described in the attached drawings.
[0037]
[0038] In this application, “stabilizing an active ingredient” means stabilizing an active ingredient that is prone to oxidation or discoloration within the formulation of a cosmetic composition without significantly reducing the potency of the active ingredient. In other words, a cosmetic composition in which an active ingredient is stabilized means that the active ingredient is not oxidized or discolored, and there are no problems such as precipitation or separation within the formulation of the cosmetic composition that lower stability, while the potency of the active ingredient is maintained without significant loss.
[0039]
[0040] According to an embodiment of the present application, a dual-functional cosmetic composition is provided. The dual-functional cosmetic composition may include a whitening functional ingredient, a wrinkle-improving functional ingredient, an antioxidant, a surfactant, and a polyol.
[0041] The whitening functional ingredient may include ascorbic acid and ethyl ascorbyl ether, and the wrinkle improvement functional ingredient may include adenosine.
[0042] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises ascorbic acid, ethyl ascorbyl ether, and adenosine, thereby providing a cosmetic composition having excellent formulation stability and retention rate of the active ingredient.
[0043] Specifically, the cosmetic composition may contain ascorbic acid in an amount of 0.1 wt% or more, 1 wt% or more, 10 wt% or more, or 25 wt% or less. For example, the cosmetic composition may contain ascorbic acid in an amount of 0.1 to 25 wt%, 1 to 25 wt%, or 10 to 25 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If the amount of ascorbic acid is included in an excessive amount outside the above range, the stability of the formulation may be reduced due to changes over time, such as the occurrence of haze within the formulation.
[0044] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition may contain ethyl ascorbyl ether in an amount of 0.01 wt% or more, 0.05 wt% or more, 0.1 wt% or more, or 2 wt% or less. For example, ethyl ascorbyl ether may be contained in an amount of 0.01 to 2 wt%, 0.05 to 2 wt%, or 0.1 to 2 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Ethyl ascorbyl ether is one of the derivatives of ascorbic acid and is an ingredient having a similar effect to ascorbic acid.
[0045] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition may contain adenosine in an amount of 0.01 wt% or more, 0.02 wt% or more, or 0.03 wt% or more, or 1 wt% or less, 0.5 wt% or less, or 0.1 wt% or less. For example, adenosine may be contained in an amount of 0.01 to 1 wt%, 0.02 to 0.5 wt%, or 0.03 to 0.1 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Adenosine is an ingredient that has an excellent wrinkle improvement effect and is effective in preventing skin aging and improving skin tone.
[0046] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition may contain purified water in an amount of 1 wt% or more, 2 wt% or more, or 3 wt% or more, or 20 wt% or less, 19 wt% or less, 18 wt% or less, 17 wt% or less, 16 wt% or less, or 15 wt% or less. For example, the purified water may be contained in an amount of 1 to 20 wt%, 2 to 17 wt%, or 3 to 15 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If a small amount of purified water is contained outside the above range, the formulation stability of the cosmetic composition may be reduced due to changes over time or the active ingredient may be precipitated, and if the purified water is contained in an excessive amount, the active ingredient may be oxidized within the formulation, causing the cosmetic composition to discolor.
[0047] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition may include at least one of tocopherol and ferulic acid as an antioxidant. The tocopherol may be one of alpha-tocopherol, beta-tocopherol, gamma-tocopherol, and delta-tocopherol. Meanwhile, when glutathione is included as an antioxidant, there is a limit to the occurrence of an off-flavor in the cosmetic composition, and precipitation may occur due to the low solubility of glutathione itself.
[0048] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition may contain tocopherol in an amount of 0.01 wt% or more, 0.02 wt% or more, 0.03 wt% or more, 0.04 wt% or more, 0.05 wt% or more, 0.06 wt% or more, 0.07 wt% or more, 0.08 wt% or more, 0.09 wt% or more, 0.1 wt% or more, or 0.5 wt% or less. For example, tocopherol may be contained in an amount of 0.01 to 0.5 wt%, 0.05 to 0.5 wt% or 0.1 to 0.5 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Beyond the above range, if tocopherol is contained in a small amount or not contained, the active ingredient may be oxidized within the formulation, causing discoloration of the cosmetic composition, and if tocopherol is contained in an excessive amount, the layers of the cosmetic composition may be separated or suspension may occur.
[0049] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition may contain ferulic acid in an amount of 0.01 wt% or more, 0.02 wt% or more, 0.03 wt% or more, 0.04 wt% or more, 0.05 wt% or more, 0.06 wt% or more, 0.07 wt% or more, 0.08 wt% or more, 0.09 wt% or more, 0.1 wt% or more, or 0.7 wt% or less. For example, the ferulic acid may be contained in an amount of 0.01 to 0.7 wt%, 0.05 to 0.7 wt% or 0.1 to 0.7 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Beyond the above range, if a small amount of ferulic acid is contained or no ferulic acid is contained, the active ingredient may be oxidized within the formulation, causing discoloration of the cosmetic composition, and if an excessive amount of ferulic acid is contained, the formulation stability of the cosmetic composition may be reduced, causing precipitation.
[0050] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition may contain octyldodeceth as a surfactant in an amount of 0.01 wt% or more, 0.05 wt% or more, 0.1 wt% or more, or 0.5 wt% or more, or 4 wt% or less, 3 wt% or less, or 2 wt% or less. For example, octyldodeceth may be contained in an amount of 0.01 to 4 wt%, 0.1 to 3 wt%, or 0.5 to 2 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Beyond the above range, if octyldodeceth is contained in a small amount or not contained, it is difficult to stabilize fat-soluble tocopherol in the formulation, and if octyldodeceth is contained in an excessive amount, the formulation of the cosmetic composition may be stabilized, but skin irritation due to an excessive amount of surfactant may be induced.
[0051] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition may include a polyol. The polyol may be one or more of 1,2-propanediol (propylene glycol), 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, glycerin, glycerol, isoprene glycol, sorbitol, xylitol, erythritol, fructose, lactose, mannitol, glucose, sucrose, maltose, or maltitol, and is not limited thereto as long as it is a polyol that can achieve the desired effect of the present invention.
[0052] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition may contain polyol in an amount of 55 wt% or more, 60 wt% or more, or 70 wt% or more, or 86 wt% or less, 85 wt% or less, or 84 wt% or less. For example, the polyol may be contained in an amount of 55 to 86 wt%, 60 to 85 wt%, or 70 to 84 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If the amount of polyol is included in a small amount outside the above range, the stability of the formulation may be reduced due to changes over time, such as the occurrence of haze within the formulation, and if the amount of polyol is included in an excessive amount, the active ingredient may not be stabilized and may precipitate.
[0053] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition may comprise 3 parts by weight or more, 3.1 parts by weight or more, 3.2 parts by weight or more, 3.3 parts by weight or more, 3.4 parts by weight or more, 3.5 parts by weight or more, 3.6 parts by weight or more, 3.7 parts by weight or more, 3.8 parts by weight or more, 3.9 parts by weight or more, 4.0 parts by weight or more, 4.1 parts by weight or more, 4.2 parts by weight or more, 4.3 parts by weight or more, 4.4 parts by weight or more, or 4.5 parts by weight or more, or 30 parts by weight or less, 29 parts by weight or less, or 28 parts by weight or less of the polyol, relative to 1 part by weight of purified water. For example, the cosmetic composition may comprise 3 to 30 parts by weight, 3.7 to 30 parts by weight, 4.0 to 29 parts by weight, or 4.5 to 28 parts by weight of the polyol, relative to 1 part by weight of purified water. Beyond the above range, if a small amount of polyol is included compared to purified water, the stability of the formulation may be reduced due to changes over time, such as the occurrence of haze within the formulation, and if an excessive amount of polyol is included, the active ingredient may not be stabilized and may precipitate.
[0054] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition may contain sodium citrate as an acidity regulator in an amount of 0.1 wt% or more, 0.5 wt% or more, or 1 wt% or more, or 3 wt% or less, 2.5 wt% or less, or 2 wt% or less. For example, the sodium citrate may be contained in an amount of 0.1 to 3 wt%, 0.5 to 2.5 wt%, or 1 to 2 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If the amount of sodium citrate is included in a small amount outside the above range, the pH of the cosmetic composition may be lowered, thereby deteriorating the pH stability of the cosmetic composition. If the amount of sodium citrate is included in an excessive amount, the pH of the cosmetic composition may be increased, thereby accelerating oxidation of the formulation, which may cause precipitation, etc.
[0055] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may not include a thickener to stabilize the active ingredient. Typically, cosmetic compositions increase viscosity to stabilize the active ingredient within the formulation, and thickeners are added for this purpose. However, the present invention is characterized by stabilizing the active ingredient without the addition of a thickener. However, the present invention has the limitation of exhibiting a sticky feeling when using it, even when a thickener is included.
[0056] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition may have a retention rate of ascorbic acid potency of 90% or more at room temperature (25°C) and at high temperature (40°C). Specifically, the retention rate of ascorbic acid potency at room temperature may be 95% or more, and the retention rate of ascorbic acid potency at high temperature may be 90% or more.
[0057] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition may have a retention rate of ethyl ascorbyl ether of 98% or more and a retention rate of adenosine of 100% or more at room temperature (25°C) and at high temperature (40°C).
[0058]
[0059] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition may further include additives commonly used in the art, as long as they do not impair the effects of the embodiments of the present application. For example, the cosmetic composition may further include thickeners, pH adjusters, surfactants, stabilizers, preservatives, antiseptics, bactericides, moisturizers, sunscreens, skin conditioning agents, whitening agents, colorants, organic pigments, inorganic pigments, fragrances, vitamins, natural pigments, pearls, and other functional ingredients. Here, the functional ingredients may include, for example, wrinkle-improving ingredients, whitening ingredients, antioxidant ingredients, anti-aging ingredients, plumping ingredients, exfoliating ingredients, scrubbing ingredients, moisturizing ingredients, skin barrier strengthening ingredients, skin elasticity strengthening ingredients, and the like. A person skilled in the art can easily select the blending amount of the above ingredients as long as it does not impair the purpose and effects of the present application.
[0060] In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition may be provided in a formulation conventionally manufactured in the art. For example, the cosmetic composition may be formulated as an oil-based dispersion formulation in which a powder complex is dispersed in an oil phase, an aqueous dispersion formulation in which a powder complex is dispersed in an aqueous phase, an oil-in-water (O / W), water-in-oil (W / O), water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W), and oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) emulsion formulation, a solubilized formulation, etc. However, the present invention is not limited thereto, and the cosmetic composition may also be provided in the form of a solution, suspension, emulsion, solid, gel, oil, powder, paste, or foam aerosol.
[0061] In embodiments, the cosmetic composition may be manufactured into various products. For example, it may be manufactured into sun care products such as sunscreen, sun stick, sun milk, sun lotion, and sun cushion. For example, it may be manufactured into functional cosmetics such as nourishing cream, essence, and ampoule, or basic cosmetics such as toner and lotion. In addition, it may be manufactured into soap, detergent, cleansing cream, and cleansing water, or color cosmetics such as lipstick, lip balm, mascara, blusher, shading, highlighter, makeup base, foundation, pact, concealer, and skin cover. It may also be manufactured into hair cleansing products such as shampoo, rinse, hair conditioner, and hair gel. Furthermore, it may be manufactured into products that adhere to the skin, such as packs, hydrogel slimming patches, and the like, or products that are sprayed onto the skin, such as mists and aerosols.
[0062] In an embodiment, the composition may be a composition for external application to the skin. For example, the composition for external application to the skin may have a formulation such as a solution, oil, paste, cream, gel, patch, or spray. In an embodiment, the composition for external application to the skin may appropriately blend ingredients commonly used in external applications for the skin such as cosmetics or pharmaceuticals, such as aqueous ingredients, oily ingredients, powder ingredients, alcohols, moisturizers, thickeners, sunscreens, whitening agents, preservatives, antioxidants, surfactants, fragrances, colorants, fatty substances, solubilizers, thickeners, gelling agents, softeners, foaming agents, fragrances, metal ion sequestrants, chelating agents, vitamins, various skin nutrients, or combinations thereof, as needed. The blending amount of the ingredients can be easily selected by those skilled in the art within a range that does not impair the purpose and effect of the present application.
[0063]
[0064] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described through manufacturing examples and experimental examples, but the scope of the present invention is not limited by the contents presented below.
[0065]
[0066] Manufacturing example
[0067]
[0068] (1) Manufacturing Examples 1 to 3: Manufacturing of a cosmetic composition containing an effective ingredient
[0069] According to Table 1, a cosmetic composition containing an active ingredient was prepared. The unit in Table 1 is weight%.
[0070]
[0071] Classification Manufacturing Example 1 Manufacturing Example 2 Manufacturing Example 3 Purified water 10153 Ascorbic acid 101010 Ethyl ascorbyl ether 111 Adenosine 0.04 0.04 0.04 Tocopherol 0.10.5 0.1 Ferulic acid 0.10.10.7 Octyldodeceth 0.5 10.5 1,3-propanediol 76.65 70.75 83.05 Disodium EDTA 0.01 0.01 0.01 Sodium citrate 1111,2-hexanediol 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.10.10.1
[0072] The specific manufacturing method is as follows.
[0073] The first material was prepared by mixing tocopherol and octyldodeceth-16 at about 50°C. Then, the remaining ingredients and the first material were added to 1,3-propanediol at room temperature to prepare the second material. The prepared second material was then heated to about 80°C. H ) and mix while heating to about 33℃ C ) was cooled and defoamed to prepare a cosmetic composition containing an active ingredient.
[0074]
[0075] (2) Manufacturing Examples 4 to 8: Manufacturing of cosmetic compositions according to purified water content
[0076] According to Table 2, cosmetic compositions containing active ingredients were prepared in the same manner as above, with different purified water contents. The unit in Table 2 is weight%.
[0077]
[0078] Classification Manufacturing Example 4 Manufacturing Example 5 Manufacturing Example 6 Manufacturing Example 7 Manufacturing Example 8 Purified Water 70503012 Ascorbic Acid 1010101010 Ethyl Ascorbyl Ether 11111 Adenosine 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 Tocopherol 0.10.10.10.10.1 Ferulic Acid 0.10.10.10.10.1 Octyldodeceth 0 .50.50.50.50.51,3-Propanediol16.6536.6556.6585.6584.65Disodium EDTA0.010.010.010.010.01Sodium Citrate111111,2-Hexanediol0.50.50.50.50.50.5Ethylhexylglycerin0.10.10.10.10.1
[0079] (3) Manufacturing Examples 9 to 13: Manufacturing of cosmetic compositions according to antioxidant ingredient content
[0080] According to Table 3, cosmetic compositions containing active ingredients were prepared in the same manner as above, with different contents of antioxidant components such as tocopherol, ferulic acid, and glutathione. The unit in Table 3 is weight%.
[0081]
[0082] Classification Manufacturing Example 9 Manufacturing Example 10 Manufacturing Example 11 Manufacturing Example 12 Manufacturing Example 13 Purified water 1010101010 Ascorbic acid 1010101010 Ethyl ascorbyl ether 11111 Adenosine 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 Tocopherol 0.1 0.1-0.6 0.1 Ferulic acid 0.1-0.1 0.10.8 Glutathione 0.1--- -Octyldodeceth 0.5 0.5 0.5 2 0.5 1,3-propanediol 76.5 5 76.7 5 76.7 5 74.6 5 7 5.9 5 Disodium EDTA 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 Sodium citrate 1 1 1 1,2-hexanediol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
[0083] (4) Manufacturing Examples 14 to 16: Manufacturing of cosmetic compositions according to ascorbic acid content
[0084] According to Table 4, cosmetic compositions containing active ingredients were prepared in the same manner as above, with different contents of ascorbic acid. The unit in Table 4 is weight%.
[0085]
[0086] Classification Manufacturing Example 14 Manufacturing Example 15 Manufacturing Example 16 Purified water 15 15 15 Ascorbic acid 24 25 26 Ethyl ascorbyl ether 11 1 Adenosine 0.04 0.04 0.04 Tocopherol 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ferulic acid 0.10 10.1 Octyldodeceth 11 1 1,3-propanediol 56.75 55.75 54.75 Disodium EDTA 0.01 0.01 0.01 Sodium citrate 11 1,2-hexanediol 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.10 10.1
[0087] (5) Manufacturing Examples 17 to 19: Manufacturing of cosmetic compositions according to surfactant or thickener content
[0088] According to Table 5, cosmetic compositions containing active ingredients were prepared in the same manner as above, varying the content of octyldodeceth as a surfactant or xanthan gum as a thickener. The unit in Table 5 is weight%.
[0089]
[0090] Classification Manufacturing Example 17 Manufacturing Example 18 Manufacturing Example 19 Purified water 101010 Ascorbic acid 101010 Thickener (xanthan gum)--5 Ethyl ascorbyl ether 111 Adenosine 0.04 0.04 0.04 Tocopherol 0.10.10.1 Ferulic acid 0.10.10.1 Octyldodeceth-5 0.5 1,3-propanediol 77.15 71.65 72.15 Disodium EDTA 0.01 0.01 0.01 Sodium citrate 111 1,2-hexanediol 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.10.10.1
[0091] (6) Manufacturing Examples 20 to 23: Manufacturing of cosmetic compositions according to ascorbic acid content in anhydrous formulations
[0092] According to Table 6, cosmetic compositions were prepared in the same manner as above, with different amounts of ascorbic acid in an anhydrous formulation. The unit in Table 6 is weight%.
[0093]
[0094] Classification Manufacturing Example 20 Manufacturing Example 21 Manufacturing Example 22 Manufacturing Example 23 Purified water----Ascorbic acid-1510 Ethyl ascorbyl ether 1111 Adenosine 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 Tocopherol 0.10.10.10.1 Ferulic acid 0.10.10.10.1 Octyldodeceth 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 1,3-propanediol 96.65 95.65 91.65 8 6.65 Disodium EDTA 0.01 0.01 0.01 Sodium citrate 111 1,2-hexanediol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.10 10.10.1
[0095] Experimental example
[0096]
[0097] (1) Experimental Example 1: Confirmation of formulation stability of cosmetic composition
[0098] The cosmetic composition manufactured above was checked to see whether the formulation was stably formed without layer separation or precipitation immediately after manufacture, and the results are shown in Table 7 (if the formulation was formed uniformly and stably: O, if the formulation was separated or precipitated: X).
[0099]
[0100] Classification Formulation Stability Manufacturing Example 1 Manufacturing Example 2 Manufacturing Example 3 Manufacturing Example 4 Manufacturing Example 5 Manufacturing Example 6 Manufacturing Example 7 Manufacturing Example 8 Manufacturing Example 9 Manufacturing Example 10 Manufacturing Example 11 Manufacturing Example 12 Manufacturing Example 13 Manufacturing Example 14 Manufacturing Example 15 Manufacturing Example 16 Manufacturing Example 17 X Manufacturing Example 18 X Manufacturing Example 19 X Manufacturing Example 20 X Manufacturing Example 21 X Manufacturing Example 22 X Manufacturing Example 23 X
[0101] Manufacturing Example 17, which did not contain octyldodeceth as a surfactant, showed a layer separation phenomenon because tocopherol was not stabilized.
[0102] Meanwhile, in the anhydrous formulations, Manufacturing Examples 20 to 23, there was a problem in which adenosine was not dissolved but precipitated regardless of the content of ascorbic acid.
[0103] No layer separation or precipitation was observed in other cosmetic compositions.
[0104]
[0105] (2) Experimental Example 2: Evaluation of the feel of a cosmetic composition
[0106] The use of the cosmetic composition manufactured above was evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 8.
[0107] The usability evaluation was conducted by comparing the stickiness level by applying the same amount of cosmetic composition, and a case showing a light, non-sticky feeling was evaluated as 1 point, and a maximum of 5 points was given depending on the intensity of the stickiness.
[0108]
[0109] Classification, Usage, Manufacturing Example 11, Manufacturing Example 21, Manufacturing Example 31, Manufacturing Example 44, Manufacturing Example 53.8, Manufacturing Example 63, Manufacturing Example 71, Manufacturing Example 81, Manufacturing Example 91, Manufacturing Example 101, Manufacturing Example 111, Manufacturing Example 121, Manufacturing Example 131, Manufacturing Example 141, Manufacturing Example 151, Manufacturing Example 161, Manufacturing Example 171, Manufacturing Example 184.5, Manufacturing Example 195, Manufacturing Example 201, Manufacturing Example 211, Manufacturing Example 221, Manufacturing Example 231
[0110] Manufacturing examples 4 to 6, which contained a large amount of purified water and a small amount of 1,3-propanediol, exhibited a relatively sticky feeling when used, and in particular, the stickiness tended to increase as the content of purified water increased.
[0111] Manufacturing Example 18, which contained a large amount of octyldodeceth as a surfactant, showed a sticky feeling when used, and in particular, had the problem of causing skin irritation.
[0112] Additionally, Manufacturing Example 19, which included xanthan gum as a thickener, was confirmed to have the strongest stickiness.
[0113] Other cosmetic compositions showed a light, non-sticky feel when used.
[0114]
[0115] (3) Experimental Example 3: Evaluation of formulation stability, odor change, and discoloration according to changes in cosmetic composition over time
[0116] The cosmetic composition manufactured above was stored at 40°C for about 1 month, and the changes in formulation stability, odor change, and discoloration were evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 9.
[0117] Changes in formulation stability were evaluated as follows: if layer separation, precipitation, or suspension occurred (X), if agitation occurred (△), or if stable (O).
[0118] Discoloration and odor were assessed as good, with 1 point given for good, and a maximum of 5 points were awarded depending on the severity of the discoloration and odor. However, discoloration was judged to be good up to 2 points. Figure 1 is a diagram showing the criteria for the degree of discoloration by evaluation score.
[0119]
[0120] Classification Formulation Stability Odor Discoloration Manufacturing Example 1011.5 Manufacturing Example 2012 Manufacturing Example 3011 Manufacturing Example 4015 Manufacturing Example 5015 Manufacturing Example 6013 Manufacturing Example 7X11 Manufacturing Example 8△11 Manufacturing Example 9△51 Manufacturing Example 10012.5 Manufacturing Example 11012.5 Manufacturing Example 12X11.5 Manufacturing Example 13X11.5 Manufacturing Example 14012 Manufacturing Example 15012 Manufacturing Example 16△12 Manufacturing Example 17X12 Manufacturing Example 18011.5 Manufacturing Example 19X11.5 Manufacturing Example 20X11 Manufacturing Example 21X11 Manufacturing Example 22X11 Manufacturing Example 23X11
[0121] Manufacturing Examples 1 to 3 were evaluated to have excellent formulation stability according to changes over time, and also to have good odor and color changes.
[0122] The formulation stability and odor change over time of manufacturing examples 4 to 6 containing a large amount of purified water and a small amount of 1,3-propanediol were good, but discoloration was strong, and in particular, the discoloration tended to become stronger as the content of purified water increased.
[0123] The odor and discoloration of manufacturing examples 7 and 8, which contained a small amount of purified water and a large amount of 1,3-propanediol, were good, but precipitation or haze occurred within the formulation.
[0124] Although discoloration of Preparation Example 9, which included tocopherol, ferulic acid, and glutathione as antioxidant ingredients, was satisfactory, haze occurred within the formulation, which was judged to be due to insufficient purified water content for glutathione dissolution. In addition, a strong off-flavor occurred, which was judged to be due to the inclusion of glutathione.
[0125] The formulation stability and odor change over time of manufacturing examples 10 and 11 containing only tocopherol or ferulic acid as antioxidant ingredients were good, but discoloration occurred.
[0126] Manufacturing Example 12, which contains an excessive amount of tocopherol as an antioxidant, showed layer separation and suspension within the formulation despite containing a large amount of octyldodeceth as a surfactant. However, odor and discoloration were satisfactory.
[0127] The odor and discoloration of Manufacturing Example 13, which contained an excessive amount of ferulic acid as an antioxidant, were good, but precipitation occurred within the formulation.
[0128] Manufacturing Examples 14 and 15, which contain a large amount of ascorbic acid, were excellent in formulation stability, odor change, and discoloration over time, but Manufacturing Example 16, in which ascorbic acid exceeded 25 wt%, caused haze in the formulation.
[0129] The discoloration and odor change of Manufacturing Example 17, which did not contain octyldodeceth as a surfactant, were good, but the layer separation phenomenon that occurred immediately after manufacturing because tocopherol was not stabilized continued.
[0130] Manufacturing Example 18, which contained a large amount of octyldodeceth as a surfactant, had good formulation stability, discoloration, and odor change over time, but had a problem of skin irritation due to the large amount of surfactant included.
[0131] The discoloration and odor of Manufacturing Example 19 containing a thickener were good, but gelation occurred within the formulation and the usability was deteriorated.
[0132] Meanwhile, the discoloration and odor of the anhydrous formulations of Manufacturing Examples 20 to 23 were good, but there was a problem of adenosine precipitation.
[0133]
[0134] (4) Experimental Example 4: Analysis of the activity of the active ingredient
[0135] According to Experimental Example 3, the potency of the active ingredient was analyzed for Manufacturing Examples 1 to 6, 10, 11, 14, and 15, which had relatively good formulation stability over time.
[0136] The potency of the active ingredient is the content of the active ingredient (P) in the cosmetic composition immediately after manufacturing. i ) was measured, and the content of the active ingredient (P) was measured after leaving the cosmetic composition at room temperature (25℃) and high temperature (40℃) for 2 months each. f ) was measured and evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 10 below.
[0137]
[0138] [Mathematical Formula 1]
[0139] Retention rate (%) = P f / P i ×100
[0140]
[0141] The content of the active ingredient was quantitatively measured using a high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) device, and the potency retention rate was calculated according to mathematical formula 1.
[0142]
[0143] Classification Ascorbic acid activity retention rate (%) Ethyl ascorbyl ether activity retention rate (%) Adenosine activity retention rate (%) 25℃40℃25℃40℃25℃40℃ Manufacturing example 197.195.199.098.8100101 Manufacturing example 295.193.999.298.9100.2100.9 Manufacturing example 399.997.899.098.9100.1101.2 Manufacturing example 480.740.692.090.999.197.7 Manufacturing example 590.765.696.2 Manufacturing Example 92.999.498.5 Manufacturing Example 694.776.698.796.299.5100.1 Manufacturing Example 1095.181.998.897.299.4100.1 Manufacturing Example 1193.179.998.796.999.5100 Manufacturing Example 149592.899.498.8100.1100.4 Manufacturing Example 1595.192.99998.9100100.3
[0144] Manufacturing Examples 1 to 3 were measured to have excellent potency retention rates, with the potency retention rates of the active ingredient ascorbic acid being 90% or higher at room temperature (25°C) and high temperature (40°C), and the potency retention rates of ethyl ascorbyl ether were confirmed to be 98% or higher, and the potency retention rates of adenosine were confirmed to be 100% or higher.
[0145] Manufacturing Examples 4 to 6, which contained a large amount of purified water and a small amount of 1,3-propanediol, showed a decrease in the retention rate of activity overall. In particular, the retention rate of activity of ascorbic acid decreased to less than 95% at room temperature and to less than 80% at high temperatures.
[0146] Manufacturing Example 10, which does not contain ferulic acid, and Manufacturing Example 11, which does not contain tocopherol, also showed a decrease in potency retention overall. In this case, the potency retention rate of ascorbic acid was found to be around 93-95% at room temperature, but at high temperature, it was found to be around 80%, confirming that the potency retention rate was particularly reduced at high temperatures.
[0147] Manufacturing Examples 14 and 15 containing ascorbic acid in different contents showed a good ascorbic acid titer retention rate of 95% at room temperature, and a titer retention rate of 90% or more at high temperature, showing titer retention rates similar to Manufacturing Examples 1 to 3. In addition, the titer retention rate of ethyl ascorbyl ether was confirmed to be 98% or more at room temperature and high temperature, and the titer retention rate of adenosine was confirmed to be 100% or more.
[0148]
[0149] While specific portions of the contents of this application have been described in detail above, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that these specific descriptions merely represent preferred embodiments and do not limit the scope of this application. Therefore, the substantial scope of this application is defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.
Claims
1. Contains whitening functional ingredients, wrinkle improvement functional ingredients, antioxidants, surfactants and polyols. The above whitening functional ingredients include ascorbic acid and ethyl ascorbyl ether. The above wrinkle improvement functional ingredient includes adenosine, A dual-functional cosmetic composition comprising purified water in an amount of 1 to 20 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
2. In paragraph 1, The above cosmetic composition is a dual-functional cosmetic composition containing 3 to 30 parts by weight of the polyol relative to 1 part by weight of the purified water.
3. In paragraph 1, A dual-functional cosmetic composition comprising at least one of tocopherol and ferulic acid as the antioxidant.
4. In paragraph 3, A dual-functional cosmetic composition comprising 0.01 to 0.5 wt% of the tocopherol and 0.01 to 0.7 wt% of the ferulic acid based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
5. In paragraph 1, The above cosmetic composition is a dual-functional cosmetic composition containing octyldodeceth.
6. In paragraph 5, A dual-functional cosmetic composition comprising 0.01 to 4 wt% of the octyldodeceth based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
7. In paragraph 1, The above polyol is a dual-functional cosmetic composition comprising at least one of 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, glycerin, glycerol, isoprene glycol, sorbitol, xylitol, erythrol, fructose, lactose, mannitol, glucose, sugar, maltose or maltitol.
8. In paragraph 7, A dual-functional cosmetic composition comprising 55 to 86 wt% of the polyol based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
9. In paragraph 1, A dual-functional cosmetic composition comprising 0.1 to 25 wt% of the ascorbic acid based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
10. In paragraph 1, A dual-functional cosmetic composition comprising 0.01 to 2 wt% of the ethyl ascorbyl ether based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
11. In paragraph 1, A dual-functional cosmetic composition comprising 0.01 to 1 wt% of the adenosine based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
12. In paragraph 1, A dual-functional cosmetic composition that does not contain a thickener.
Citation Information
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