Powder cosmetic
The powder cosmetic formulation with metal soap, spherical, and plate-shaped powders addresses the usability vs. finish trade-off, providing a natural, transparent finish by optimizing component contents and sizes, enhancing spreadability and transparency.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/JP2025/002132
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-02-07
- Filing Date
- 2025-01-24
- Publication Date
- 2025-08-14
AI Technical Summary
Existing powder cosmetics face a trade-off between usability and finish, with combinations of mica, talc, and silica failing to provide a natural, transparent finish without a powdery feel or white cast, and boron nitride reducing transparency.
A powder cosmetic formulation comprising metal soap, spherical powder, and plate-shaped powder, with specific content ranges and particle sizes, minimizing boron nitride content to enhance spreadability and transparency.
The formulation achieves ease of use, unity with the skin, and high transparency without white cast, ensuring a natural finish.
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Abstract
Description
Powder cosmetics
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic that combines ease of use with a transparent finish.
[0002] Recently, one trend in cosmetics is the desire for products that provide a natural finish. At the same time, there is also a desire for products that do not feel unnatural when used. For this reason, powder cosmetics such as foundations are required to have a low powdery feel when used, be easy to blend into the skin, and provide a natural finish without feeling thick or cast white while exerting sufficient coverage.
[0003] In order to meet these needs, various powder cosmetics have been investigated. In powder cosmetics, the powders typically used are mica, talc, silica, or a combination thereof, but it has been difficult for these combinations to fully meet the needs described above. For this reason, for example, it has been known to combine boron nitride to improve usability, but the combination of boron nitride tends to reduce the transparency of the finished product. For this reason, powder cosmetics often have a trade-off between usability and finish.
[0004] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2022-056556
[0005] In view of the above-mentioned problems, the present invention aims to provide a powder cosmetic that can achieve both ease of use and a good finish at a high level.
[0006] According to the present invention, the following inventions are provided. [1] A powder cosmetic comprising (A) a metal soap, (B) a spherical powder, and (C) a plate-like powder, wherein, based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic, the content of component (A) is 10% by mass or more, the content of component (B) is 15% by mass or more, and the content of component (C) is 5% by mass or more, and based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic, the total content of components (A), (B), and (C) is more than 90% by mass. [2] The powder cosmetic according to [1], wherein component (B) is silica powder or silicone powder. [3] The powder cosmetic according to [1] or [2], wherein component (C) is synthetic mica. [4] The powder cosmetic according to any of [1] to [3], wherein component (C) is hydrophobic mica. [5] The powder cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein the component (A) is selected from magnesium myristate, calcium myristate, zinc myristate, and mixtures thereof. [6] The powder cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [5], wherein the volume-based median diameters (D50) of the components (A), (B), and (C) are 10 to 40 μm, 1 to 15 μm, and 1 to 30 μm, respectively. [7] The powder cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [6], wherein, based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic, the content of the component (A) is 10 to 30 mass%, the content of the component (B) is 15 to 70 mass%, and the content of the component (C) is 5 to 75 mass%. [8] The powder cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [7], wherein the content of (X) boron nitride is 7 mass% or less, or is completely absent, based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic. [9] The powder cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [8], wherein the content of (Y) water is 5% by mass or less, or is completely absent, based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic.
[10] A powder cosmetic comprising (A) a metal soap, (B) a spherical powder, and (C) a plate-shaped powder, wherein, based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic, the content of component (A) is 10% by mass or more, the content of component (B) is 15% by mass or more, the content of component (C) is 5% by mass or more, and the content of boron nitride is 7% or less.
[0007] According to the present invention, there is provided a powder cosmetic which is easy to spread when applied to the skin, gives a feeling of unity as if it melts into the skin, has excellent usability, is free from white cast, and can achieve a finish with high transparency. Specific Description of the Invention
[0008] The powder cosmetic according to the present invention comprises: (A) a metal soap; (B) a spherical powder; and (C) a plate-like powder. Each of these components, as well as other components that can be further blended, will be described below.
[0009] (A) Metal Soap The powder cosmetic according to the present invention (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as cosmetic) comprises a metal soap (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (A)). In the present invention, component (A) is defined as a salt of a carboxyl group-containing compound, such as a fatty acid, with a divalent or higher metal. Here, the carboxyl group-containing compound constituting component (A) includes, for example, fatty acids having a linear or branched alkyl group, carboxyl-modified silicones, etc., but among these, higher fatty acids, i.e., linear or branched carboxylic acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, are preferred. Specific preferred examples of higher fatty acids include stearic acid, isostearic acid, myristic acid, and lauric acid, with myristic acid being particularly preferred.
[0010] The divalent or higher metal that constitutes component (A) is not particularly limited, but preferred examples include alkaline earth metals such as calcium, magnesium, and zinc, and trivalent metals such as aluminum.
[0011] Examples of component (A) include magnesium myristate, calcium myristate, zinc myristate, magnesium stearate, zinc stearate, aluminum stearate, aluminum distearate, aluminum oleate, aluminum palmitate, aluminum laurate, aluminum myristate, aluminum dimyristate, silicone metal soap (divalent or trivalent metal salt of organosiloxane derivative having a terminal carboxyl group), etc. Of these, magnesium myristate, calcium myristate, zinc myristate, and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
[0012] In the present invention, component (A) is blended in powder form. The particle size of component (A) can be selected arbitrarily depending on the purpose, but the volume-based median diameter (D50) is preferably 10 to 40 μm, more preferably 15 to 30 μm. Furthermore, the particles of component (A) preferably have an isotropic shape, and the shape of their projected cross section is preferably close to square. Specifically, the aspect ratio of particles of component (A) is preferably 1.0 to 2.0, more preferably 1.0 to 1.6, and particularly preferably 1.0 to 1.5. Here, the aspect ratio is the value obtained by dividing the major axis diameter by the minor axis diameter (major axis diameter / minor axis diameter) when observing the projected cross section of the particle. Having an aspect ratio within this range improves spreadability on the skin and improves usability. Furthermore, the thickness of the particles of component (A) is preferably 250 to 600 nm, more preferably 280 to 450 nm, and particularly preferably 300 to 450 nm. Having the thickness of the particles of component (A) within this range ensures excellent handleability during production and allows the effects of the present invention to be fully exerted.
[0013] (B) Spherical Powder The cosmetic according to the present invention contains a spherical powder (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as component (B)). In the present invention, component (B) can be arbitrarily selected from powders of approximately spherical shapes, including spherical and oblate spherical shapes, that are commonly used in cosmetic preparations.
[0014] Examples of component (B) that can be used in the cosmetic preparation according to the present invention include silica powder, silicone powder, and organic resin powders such as nylon, urethane, polymethyl methacrylate, polyethylene, polypropylene, etc. Of these, component (B) is preferably silica powder or silicone powder, and more preferably silica powder.
[0015] Component (B) can be selected arbitrarily depending on the purpose, but commercially available spherical silica powders such as Sunsphere L-51 (manufactured by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd.) and Silica Microbead P-1500 (manufactured by JGC Catalysts and Chemicals Co., Ltd.) can also be used. Furthermore, commercially available spherical silicone powders include KSP-100 and KSP-300 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), (dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer spherical powders such as Trefil E-506S, Trefil E-508, 9701 Cosmetic Powder, EP-9215 Cosmetic Powder, EP-9261TI Cosmetic Powder, and EP-9293 AL Cosmetic Powder (all manufactured by Dow Corning Toray Co., Ltd.), and polymethylsilsesquioxane spherical powders such as TOSPEARL 120A, TOSPEARL 145A, and TOSPEARL 2000B (all manufactured by Momentive Performance Materials, Inc.).
[0016] The particle size of component (B) can be selected arbitrarily depending on the purpose, but the volume-based median diameter (D50) is preferably 1 to 15 μm, and more preferably 3 to 10 μm.
[0017] (C) Plate-like Powder The cosmetic according to the present invention comprises a plate-like powder (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as component (C)). In the present invention, the component (C) can be a plate-like powder used in general cosmetics. A plate-like powder is a powder having an aspect ratio (average particle diameter / average thickness) greater than 1, for example, at least 5 or more. The aspect ratio is preferably 20 or more, more preferably in the range of 20 to 80, and even more preferably in the range of 25 to 60. Furthermore, the volume-based median diameter (D50) of component (C) is preferably 1 to 30 μm, and more preferably 3 to 20 μm.
[0018] The plate-like powder can be selected from various inorganic materials. Specific examples include mica, synthetic mica, synthetic phlogopite, sericite, kaolin, alumina, barium sulfate, boron nitride, zinc oxide, silica, fish scale flakes, and bismuth oxychloride. Among these, mica and synthetic mica are preferred. The mica may be natural or synthetic. Furthermore, mica with a hydrophobic surface is preferred for the cosmetic composition of the present invention. Since natural and synthetic mica generally have hydrophilic surfaces, hydrophobically treated natural or synthetic mica is also preferred. In the present invention, it is particularly preferred to use hydrophobically treated synthetic mica. In the present invention, hydrophobizing treatment refers to treating the surface of the plate-like powder with a substance such as a higher fatty acid, oil, silicone compound, fluorine compound, hydrocarbon, surfactant, or dextrin fatty acid ester.
[0019] Various types of mica are commercially available, and any one of them can be selected for use. Examples of commercially available synthetic mica include PDM-150S and PDM-1000 (manufactured by Topy Industries, Ltd.).
[0020] It is preferable not to select talc as the platy powder. Also, boron nitride (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (X)) tends to reduce the transparency of the finished cosmetic when used, so it is preferable not to select it as the platy powder. When boron nitride is used, it is preferably present in an amount of 7 mass% or less based on the total mass of the cosmetic. It is particularly preferable that the cosmetic according to the present invention does not contain any boron nitride.
[0021] The cosmetic according to the present invention contains the above-mentioned components (A), (B), and (C), and the contents of these components must be within specific ranges. Specifically, based on the total mass of the cosmetic, the content of component (A) must be 10% by mass or more, the content of component (B) must be 15% by mass or more, and the content of component (C) must be 5% by mass or more. The contents of other components must also be low, and the total content of components (A), (B), and (C) must be more than 90% by mass.
[0022] It is also effective to use silica powder as component (B), and one preferred embodiment is a powder cosmetic comprising (A) metal soap, (B) silica powder, and (C) synthetic mica powder, wherein, based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic, the content of component (A) is 10% by mass or more, the content of component (B) is 15% by mass or more, and the content of component (C) is 5% by mass or more. When silica powder is used as component (B), both usability and finish can be achieved even if the total content of components (A), (B), and (C) is 90% by mass or less.
[0023] Furthermore, as mentioned above, the boron nitride used in general powder cosmetics can have undesirable effects when attempting to improve the finish. For this reason, a low boron nitride content is preferred in the present invention, and one embodiment is a powder cosmetic comprising: (A) a metal soap; (B) a spherical powder; and (C) a plate-like powder, wherein, based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic, the content of component (A) is 10% by mass or more; the content of component (B) is 15% by mass or more; the content of component (C) is 5% by mass or more; and the boron nitride content is 7% or less.
[0024] The upper limits of the contents of components (A), (B), and (C) are not limited as long as the above conditions are met. However, based on the total mass of the cosmetic, the content of component (A) is preferably 10 to 30 mass%, more preferably 12 to 25 mass%, the content of component (B) is preferably 15 to 70 mass%, more preferably 20 to 50 mass%, and the content of component (C) is preferably 5 to 75 mass%, more preferably 10 to 60 mass%.
[0025] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain other ingredients in addition to the above-mentioned ingredients. One such ingredient is a coloring material. The coloring material is useful when the cosmetic composition is intended to color the skin, etc.
[0026] The coloring material can be selected from those generally usable in cosmetics, but pigments are preferred. Examples of pigments include the following: organic pigments (e.g., Red No. 104, Red No. 202, Red No. 226, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Blue No. 1, Black No. 401, etc.); lake pigments (e.g., Yellow No. 4 Aluminum Lake, Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lake, etc.); inorganic coloring pigments (e.g., yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, black iron oxide, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, carbon black, ultramarine, Prussian blue, manganese violet, etc.); inorganic white pigments (e.g., zinc oxide, titanium oxide (pigment grade), etc.); extender pigments (e.g., mica, sericite, etc.); other inorganic pigments (e.g., barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, etc., alumina, etc.).
[0027] The powder cosmetic according to the present invention may further contain water, oil, moisturizers, stabilizers, preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances, dyes, etc., as needed, as long as the object of the present invention is achieved. It is preferable that the cosmetic according to the present invention has a low water content (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (Y)). Specifically, it is preferable that the water content be 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the cosmetic, and it is particularly preferable that the cosmetic contain no water at all.
[0028] The powder cosmetic of the present invention may be in any product form within the category of powder cosmetics, but is preferably in the form of loose powder, such as foundation, blush, body powder, perfume powder, baby powder, face powder, etc.
[0029] The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Unless otherwise specified, the content of a component is expressed as % by mass relative to the system in which the component is blended.
[0030] [Examples 1 to 8, Comparative Examples 1 to 5] Powder cosmetics were produced according to the compositions shown in Table 1 below, and were evaluated for the following items. The results are also shown in Table 1.
[0031] Each cosmetic example was applied to the skin, and evaluated on a four-point scale from A to D to see whether it felt like it blended with the skin, for example, whether it felt like it melted into the skin without a powdery feel, or whether it disappeared after application.
[0032] Ease of Spreading When each cosmetic composition was applied to the skin, the impression of ease of spreading initially and spreading so that it blended well with the skin was evaluated on a 4-point scale from A to D.
[0033] After applying each cosmetic product to the skin, whether it was easy to spread without a squeaky feeling was evaluated on a 4-point scale from A to D.
[0034] Finish After spreading each cosmetic product on the skin, it was evaluated on a four-point scale from A to D for the presence or absence of thickness or white cast, and for the degree of transparency.
[0035] In the table: Silica powder: Sunsphere L-51S (manufactured by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd.) Silicone powder: KSP-100 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) Synthetic mica: PDM-150S (manufactured by Topy Industries, Ltd.) Boron nitride: Lonaflare Boronage SF-12 (manufactured by Merck Performance Materials)
Claims
1. A powder cosmetic comprising (A) a metal soap, (B) a spherical powder, and (C) a plate-shaped powder, wherein, based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic, the content of component (A) is 10% by mass or more, the content of component (B) is 15% by mass or more, and the content of component (C) is 5% by mass or more, and based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic, the total content of components (A), (B), and (C) is more than 90% by mass.
2. The powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein component (B) is silica powder or silicone powder.
3. A powder cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein component (C) is synthetic mica.
4. A powder cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein component (C) is hydrophobic mica.
5. A powder cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein component (A) is selected from magnesium myristate, calcium myristate, zinc myristate, and mixtures thereof.
6. A powder cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the volume-based median diameters (D50) of components (A), (B), and (C) are 10 to 40 μm, 1 to 15 μm, and 1 to 30 μm, respectively.
7. The powder cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic, the content of component (A) is 10 to 30 mass%, the content of component (B) is 15 to 70 mass%, and the content of component (C) is 5 to 75 mass%.
8. A powder cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the content of (X) boron nitride is 7% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic, or the powder cosmetic is completely free of boron nitride.
9. A powder cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the content of (Y) water is 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic, or the powder cosmetic is completely free of water.
10. A powder cosmetic comprising (A) a metal soap, (B) a spherical powder, and (C) a plate-shaped powder, wherein, based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic, the content of component (A) is 10% by mass or more, the content of component (B) is 15% by mass or more, the content of component (C) is 5% by mass or more, and the content of boron nitride is 7% or less.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
cosmetic
JP1992108716A
Make-up cosmetic
JP2005263708A