Cosmetic compositions, use thereof, and methods for using such compositions

Abstract

5 The present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition for hair and / or skin care comprising estolide esters and at least one vegetable oil. It also relates to the use of said composition and process for preparing a cosmetic composition for hair and / or skin care.

Description

[0001] COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS, USE THEREOF, AND METHODS FOR USING SUCH COMPOSITIONS

[0002] TECHNICAL FIELD

[0003] The present invention relates a cosmetic composition for hair and / or skin care comprising estolide ester and at least one vegetable oil, a hair care composition comprising said cosmetic composition, and a skin care composition comprising said cosmetic composition. The present invention also relates to the use of said cosmetic composition in hair care composition, a hair shampoo and / or conditioning composition and a method of treating the hair and / or skin.

[0004] TECHNICAL BACKGROUND

[0005] Human hair contains approximately 97% of the protein keratin, which needs to be protected against environmental influences to preserve hair's strength and natural look. Therefore, suitable cleaning and conditioning compositions for hair are needed. The use of simple curd soap would lead to a degeneration of the natural protective layer of the hair. Furthermore, typical hair treatments such as straightening, dyeing, permanent wave, or using hair spray can lead to damaged hair. Some results may be split ends, toneless, dry and / or dull hair. For these reasons, improved hair care compositions are required.

[0006] Shampoo compositions are designed to provide certain benefits, including cleaning. These are usually aqueous compositions. Conditioning compositions are designed to provide some further treatment of hair. Some compositions are designed to provide both cleaning and treatment benefits. These are often referred to as 2-in- 1 (cleaning and conditioning) shampoos. Some shampoo compositions are designed to provide benefits on virgin hair and / or on damaged hair.

[0007] Various compositions have been disclosed in literature and / or have been made available to consumers. Shampoos typically comprise surfactants, usually anionic surfactants, in the form of micellar aqueous solutions. Using silicones in shampoo compositions is known. Using cationic polymers in shampoos is also known. It is believed that some silicone oil deposits onto hair to provide hair treatment. It is believed that cationic polymers can assist the deposition of silicone oil. For example, shampoo compositions based essentially on conventional surface-active agents of, in particular, anionic, non-ionic and / or amphoteric type, are used for washing the hair.

[0008] These compositions are applied to wet hair and the foam generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove dirt initially present on the hair.

[0009] Although having good washing power, these base compositions possess cosmetic properties that remain fairly weak, in particular as the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleansing treatment can result, in the long term, in more or less marked damage to the hair, damage related in particular to the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins present in or at the surface of the hair.

[0010] This is the reason why most of the hair care compositions further comprise additional cosmetic agents known as conditioners or conditioning agents, which are intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects brought about by the various treatments or attacks to which keratinous materials are more or less repeatedly subjected. These conditioners can also improve the cosmetic behavior of the keratinous materials.

[0011] The most commonly used conditioning agents, especially in hair care formulations, are cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones and / or silicone derivatives.

[0012] In recent times, there is an increasing demand for hair care compositions with higher cosmetic performance, allowing “one shot” washing and conditioning of the hair and including safe, environment friendly and / or natural ingredients.

[0013] Several formulations have been tested in the literature, but it remains a challenge to find a formulation providing cosmetic performance, notably in terms of softness, detanglability, shine, spreadability, along with cleansing, while being stable over time (no separation of phases).

[0014] Generally speaking, the presence of relatively high amounts of cleansing agents in the hair conditioning formulations has the adverse effect causing phase separation. Viscosity can also be affected in those cases.

[0015] This is the reason one of the major challenges when incorporating relative high amounts of cleansing agents into a hair conditioning composition is to benefit from the cleansing and conditioning properties while maintaining satisfactory softness, detanglability, shine, spreadability, along with cleansing properties and without negatively impacting viscosity and / or stability of the overall composition.

[0016] There still is a great need for improved cosmetic compositions, in particular for hair treatment, and for new hair care compositions which, based on easily available components, protect against UV light, pollution and other negative influences of the environment. Particularly in cities with higher air pollution, the hair needs to be protected over a longer period of time. The hair should remain easy to comb and should keep a good level of gloss, even for long hair, over a longer period of time. Furthermore, there is a need for providing components for cosmetic compositions that are based on natural and renewable materials or derived therefrom. Indeed, consumers are, in present times, highly conscious as to the source of the components used in such composition and these consumers feel much more comfortable using components that are derived from natural and renewable materials and are biodegradable.

[0017] General hair treatment compositions for hair care are known, however there is still a need for compositions designed for hair care, which are based on easily available components. These compositions can improve combing and gloss properties for several hair types.

[0018] Many current skin care products such as lotions and cosmetics are waterbased. Such products are normally formulated with anti-bacterial components or preservatives to prevent the formation of bacteria which could cause infection on the skin.

[0019] Estolides are long-chain esters of the same or different (hydroxy) fatty acids or unsaturated fatty acids, made by esterification of said fatty acids through an auto catalysed or catalysed reaction.

[0020] One objective of the present invention is therefore to provide a stable cosmetic composition for hair and skin care products comprising components based on preferably renewable starting materials, more preferably natural renewable and biodegradable starting materials.

[0021] A further objective for the present invention is to provide more stable components for cosmetic compositions so that the compositions have a longer shelf life, as well as providing components that provide excellent performance in hard water areas. It now was found that specific types of estolide ester compounds combined with vegetable oils are excellent components for cosmetic compositions, in particular for hair and skin treatment, with a synergic effect.

[0022] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0023] In particular, a cosmetic composition for hair and / or skin care comprising estolide esters with vegetable oils according to the invention, a process for preparing a cosmetic composition and the method of treating the hair will be described in detail, it is to be understood that this invention is not limited to specific process conditions described herein, since such conditions may, of course, vary.

[0024] It is also to be understood that the terminology used herein is not intended to be limiting, since the scope of the present invention will be limited only by the appended claims.

[0025] As used herein, the singular forms "a", "an", and "the" include both singular and plural referents unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. By way of example, "a compound" means one compound or more than one compound.

[0026] The terms "containing", "contains" and "contained of as used herein are synonymous with "including", "includes" or " comprising", "comprises", and are inclusive or open-ended and do not exclude additional, non-recited members, elements or process steps. It will be appreciated that the terms “containing”, “contains”, "comprising", "comprises" and "comprised of as used herein comprise the terms "consisting of, "consisting essentially of, "consists" and "consists of .

[0027] Throughout this application, the term "about" is used to indicate that a value includes the standard deviation of error for the device or method being employed to determine the value.

[0028] As used herein, the term “average” refers to number average unless indicated otherwise.

[0029] As used herein, the terms “% by weight”, “wt.-%”, “wt%”, “weight percentage”, or “percentage by weight” are used interchangeably. The same applies to the terms “% by volume”, “vol.- %”, “vol. percentage”, or “percentage by volume”, or “% by mol”, “mol- %”, “mol percentage”, or “percentage by mol”.

[0030] The terms "cosmetic," "cosmetic composition," and "cosmetic formulation," unless otherwise stated, shall mean any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body, including the epidermis, hair system, nails, and lips. "Cosmetics" may be placed with the intended purpose of cleaning, perfuming, beautifying, changing appearance and / or correcting odors and / or protecting or keeping the contacted portions of the human body in good condition.

[0031] The recitation of numerical ranges by endpoints includes all integer numbers and, where appropriate, fractions subsumed within that range (e.g. 1 to 5 can include 1, 2, 3, 4 when referring to, for example, a number of elements, and can also include 1.5, 2, 2.75 and 3.80, when referring to, for example, measurements). The recitation of end points also includes the end point values themselves (e.g. from 1.0 to 5.0 includes both 1.0 and 5.0). Any numerical range recited herein is intended to include all sub-ranges subsumed therein.

[0032] All references cited in the present specification are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety. In particular, the teachings of all references herein specifically referred to are incorporated by reference.

[0033] Unless otherwise defined, all terms used in disclosing the invention, including technical and scientific terms, have the meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. By means of further guidance, term definitions are included to better appreciate the teaching of the present invention.

[0034] In the following passages, different alternatives, embodiments and variants of the invention are defined in more detail. Each alternative and embodiment so defined may be combined with any other alternative and embodiment, and this for each variant unless clearly indicated to the contrary or clearly incompatible when the value range of a same parameter is disjoined. In particular, any feature indicated as being preferred or advantageous may be combined with any other feature or features indicated as being preferred or advantageous.

[0035] Furthermore, the particular features, structures or characteristics described in present description may be combined in any suitable manner, as would be apparent to a person skilled in the art from this disclosure, in one or more embodiments. Furthermore, while some embodiments described herein include some but not other features included in other embodiments, combinations of features of different embodiments are meant to be within the scope of the invention, and from different embodiments, as would be understood by those in the art. In a first embodiment the invention relates to a cosmetic composition (AB) for hair and / or skin care comprising:

[0036] A) 0.001 to 20 wt.-% of at least one component selected from at least one estolide ester compound Al) of formula (I): wherein Ri is selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl or C2-Ci2-alkenyl, nl and n2 are independently between 1 and 12, ml is between 1 and 10, or

[0037] A2) of formula (II): wherein R2 is selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl or C2-Ci2-alkenyl, n3 and n5 are independently between 1 and 13, ml is between 1 and 10, or

[0038] B) 0.001 to 20 wt.-% of an estolide ester of formula (III):

[0039] wherein R2 is selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl or C2-Ci2-alkenyl, n3 and n5 are independently between 1 and 10, ml is between 1 and 12,

[0040] Xi can be a single bond, or a double bond

[0041] X2 can be a single bond, or a double bond, with Xi different from X2, preferably wherein in case X2 is a double bond, R2 is selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl, and

[0042] C) 80 to 99.999 wt.-% of at least one vegetable oil selected from the group consisting of Coriander seed oil, Groundnut oil, Rice bran wax, Evening primrose oil, Apricot kernel oil, Grapeseed oil, Rice bran oil, Linseed oil, Mongongo oil, Hibiscus oil, Babassu seed oil, Hazelnut oil, Wheatgerm oil, Baobab oil, Rose flower oil, Corngerm oil, Walnut seed oil, Canola (Rapeseed) oil, Brazil nut oil, Baobab seed oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Camelina sativa seed oil, Babassu nut oil, Camellia oil, Macadamia Integrifolia S. Oil, Crambe oil, Manila oil, Sesame seed oil, Macadamia Temifolia S. Oil, Soybean oil, Avocado oil, Jojoba seed oil, Safflower oil, Shea butter, Argan oil, Guar oil, Coconut oil, Mango oil, Pracaxi Oil, Pumpkin Seed Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Pequi Oil, Passion Fruit Oil, Amaranthus oil, Kokum oil, Cassia oil, and Sunflower oil.

[0043] The vegetable oil(s) can comprise(s) one or more of monoglycerides, diglycerides, triglycerides, mixtures of mono- di- and triglycerides, and / or liquid esters.

[0044] Accordingly, the above vegetable oils can be used as a mixture of monoglycerides, diglycerides, triglycerides, mixtures of mono- di- and triglycerides. Many vegetable oils comprise a major content of triglycerides. It is also possible to chemically modify the triglyceride content and to increase the diglyceride content by means of the method described in the Experimental section below. Hence, the vegetable oils can be used as supplied or after modification by means of glycerolysis as described below in the Examples Section.

[0045] The amounts of A) to B) from 0.001 to 20 wt.-% of an estolide ester and of C) from 80 to 99.999 wt.-% of at least one vegetable oil, are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The amounts of A) to C) sum up to 100 wt.-%.

[0046] As used herein, the term "estolide ester" means an oligomeric fatty acid ester, wherein the monomers are joined by ester linkages. The term "estolide ester" is a term known in the art (see e.g. W02013 / 009471). In other words, the estolide ester is the ester bond with the arrow as shown below:

[0047] According to the invention, Ri and R2 are selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl or C2-Ci2-alkenyl, preferably selected from branched or linear Ci-8-alkyl, more preferably from branched or linear Ci-3-alkyl.

[0048] Examples of alkyl and alkenyl groups include, but are not limited to, methyl; ethyls such as ethanyl, ethenyl, and ethynyl; propyls such as propan-l-yl, propan-2- yl, prop-l-en-l-yl, prop-l-en-2-yl, prop-2-en-l-yl (allyl), prop”-l-yn-l-yl, prop-2-yn- 1 -yl, etc. ; butyls such as butan-l-yl, butan-2-yl, 2-methyl-propan-l-yl, 2-methyl- propan-2-yl, but-l-en-l-yl, but-l-en-2-yl, 2-methyl-prop-l-en-l-yl, but-2-en-l-yl, but- 2-en-2-yl, 3-methylbutan-l-ol, buta-l,3-dien-l-yl, buta-l,3-dien-2-yl, but-l-yn-l-yl, but-l-yn-3-yl, but-3-yn-l-yl, 2-ethyl-l -hexyl, etc.; and the like.

[0049] Preferably, Ri or R2 are ethyl, 2-ethyl-l -hexyl or 3-methylbutan-l-ol.

[0050] Component A) or B) (estolide ester) may be present in the composition in an amount of from 0.1 to 10 % by weight, preferably of from 0.1 to 8 % by weight, even more preferably of from 0.2 to 5 % by weight, in particular of from 0.2 to 3 % by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0051] According to the invention, in the estolide esters as defined above, ml is from 1 to 9, preferably from 1 to 8, even more preferably from 1 to 7, even more preferably from 1 to 6. Most preferably, the ml value is a trimer (ml = 3), pentamer (ml = 4), a hexamer (ml = 5), a heptamer (ml = 6), or mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the compounds described herein may comprise a mixture of two or more estolide ester compounds of formula I, II, and III. It is possible to characterize the chemical makeup of an estolide ester, a mixture of estolide esters, or a composition comprising estolide esters, by using the compound's, mixture's, or composition's measured estolide number (EN) of compound or composition which is ml in the above formula.

[0052] The EN represents the total average number of fatty acids in the molecule:

[0053] EN = ml+1 wherein ml is the number of secondary (P) fatty acids. Accordingly, a single estolide ester compound will have an EN that is a whole number, for example for dimers, trimers, and tetramers: dimer EN = 2, trimer EN = 3, tetramer EN = 4.

[0054] However, a composition comprising two or more estolide ester compounds may have an EN that is a whole number or a fraction of a whole number. For example, a composition having a 1 : 1 molar ratio of dimer and trimer would have an EN of 2.5, while a composition having a 1 : 1 molar ratio of tetramer and trimer would have an EN of 3.5.

[0055] In some embodiments, the compositions may comprise a mixture of two or more estolide esters having an EN that is an integer or fraction of an integer that is greater than 4.5, or even 5.0. In some embodiments, the EN may be an integer or fraction of an integer selected from 1.0 to 9.0.

[0056] In some embodiments, the estolide number is an integer or fraction of an integer selected from 1.2 to about 4.5. In some embodiments, the estolide number is selected from a value greater than 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0, 2.2, 2.4, 2.6, 2.8, 3.0,

[0057] 3.2, 3.4, 3.6, 3.8, 4.0, 4.2, 4.4, 4.6, 4.8, 5.0, 5.2, 5.4, 5.6 and 5.8. In some embodiments, the estolide number is selected from a value less than 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0, 2.2, 2.4, 2.6, 2.8, 3.0, 3.2, 3.4, 3.6, 3.8, 4.0, 4.2, 4.4, 4.6, 4.8, and 5.0, 5.2, 5.4, 5.6, 5.8, and 6.0. In some embodiments, the estolide number is selected from 1,

[0058] 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0, 2.2, 2.4, 2.6, 2.8, 3.0, 3.2, 3.4, 3.6, 3.8, 4.0, 4.2, 4.4, 4.6, 4.8, 5.0, 5.2, 5.4, 5.6, 5.8, and 6.0.

[0059] Since R1 and R2 cannot be hydrogen, then the estolide esters are not a carboxylic acid. Acids are not desired since they have the disadvantage of being prone to instability issues such as self- catalyzed hydrolysis over time. The present estolide esters in contrast provides excellent stability over time e.g. in storage. Furthermore, carboxylic acids are able to complex calcium in hard water causing them to precipitate out of solution. The present estolide ester is an ester and provides excellent performance in hard water areas. Furthermore, due to the COO' group in negligible amount, carboxylic acids repel other negatively charged material such as keratin fibres. Consequently, the present selection of R1 and R2 provides excellent performance in a cosmetic composition suitable for application onto hair and skin since they are not repelled by the negative charges on keratin fibres.

[0060] Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises as compound C), from 80 to 99.999 wt.-% of at least one vegetable oil, more preferably from 89.0 to 99.999 wt.- % of at least one vegetable oil, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0061] Preferably, the total of Xi or X2 referring to a double bond is at least 1 :1 to 10: 1 when Xi or X2 is a single bond. Thus, the ratio of XI or X2 as a double bond to Xi or X2 as a single bond is at least 1 : 1 and can go up to 10: 1.

[0062] The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising vegetable oils. As commonly known, vegetable oils, also referred to as vegetable fats, are oils extracted from seeds or from other parts of fruits. Like animal fats, vegetable fats are mixtures of triglycerides. Soybean oil, grape seed oil, and cocoa butter are examples of seed oils, or fats from seeds. Olive oil, palm oil, and rice bran oil are examples of fats from other parts of fruits. In common usage, vegetable oil may sometimes refer to vegetable fats which are liquid at room temperature. Many vegetable oils are edible. The vegetable oil of the present invention can be a synthetic or naturally occurring vegetable oil. In particular, the vegetable oil according to the invention can be one or more vegetable oils. A vegetable oil used in the composition of the invention may also comprise a certain amount of another vegetable oil, depending on the content specific case and the purity.

[0063] In one or more embodiments, the vegetable oil comprises one or more vegetable oil, selected from the group consisting of Coriander seed oil, Groundnut oil, Rice bran wax, Evening primrose oil, Apricot kernel oil, Grapeseed oil, Rice bran oil, Linseed oil, Mongongo oil, Hibiscus oil, Babassu seed oil, Hazelnut oil, Wheatgerm oil, Baobab oil, Rose flower oil, Corngerm oil, Walnut seed oil, Canola (Rapeseed) oil, Brazil nut oil, Baobab seed oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Camelina sativa seed oil, Babassu nut oil, Camellia oil, Macadamia Integrifolia S. Oil, Crambe oil, Manila oil, Sesame seed oil, Macadamia Ternifolia S. Oil, Soybean oil, Avocado oil, Jojoba seed oil (Jojoba oil), Safflower oil, Shea butter, Argan oil, Coconut oil, Guar oil, Mango oil, Pracaxi Oil, Pumpkin Seed Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Pequi Oil, Passion Fruit Oil, Amaranthus oil, Kokum oil, Cassia oil, and Sunflower oil. In some embodiments, the vegetable oil according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of Coriander seed oil, Groundnut oil, Rice bran wax, Evening primrose oil, Apricot kernel oil, Grapeseed oil, Rice bran oil, Linseed oil, Mongongo oil, Hibiscus oil, Babassu seed oil, Hazelnut oil, Wheatgerm oil, Baobab oil, Rose flower oil, Comgerm oil, Walnut seed oil, Canola (Rapeseed) oil, Brazil nut oil, Baobab seed oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Camelina sativa seed oil, Babassu nut oil, Camellia oil, Macadamia Integrifolia S. Oil, Crambe oil, Manila oil, Sesame seed oil, Macadamia Ternifolia S. Oil, Soybean oil, Avocado oil, Safflower oil, Shea butter, Argan oil, Coconut oil, Guar oil, Mango oil, Pracaxi Oil, Pumpkin Seed Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Pequi Oil, Passion Fruit Oil, Amaranthus oil, Kokum oil, Cassia oil, and Sunflower oil.

[0064] Preferably, in the cosmetic composition for hair and / or skin care according to the invention, the at least one vegetable oil is selected from the group consisting of Avocado oil, Baobab oil, Guar oil, Amaranthus oil, Jojoba oil, Cassia oil, Argan oil, Coconut oil, Rice Bran oil, and Crambe Oil. The at least one vegetable oil can also be selected from the group consisting of Avocado oil, Baobab oil, Guar oil, Amaranthus oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Cassia oil, Argan oil, Coconut oil, Rice Bran oil, and Crambe Oil. More preferably, the at least one vegetable oil is selected from the group consisting of Avocado oil, Baobab oil, Guar oil, Amaranthus oil, Cassia oil, Argan oil, Coconut oil, Rice Bran oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil and Crambe Oil.

[0065] Preferably, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the compound A2) is wherein R2 is selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl or C2-Ci2-alkenyl, n is between 1 and 13. In a preferred embodiment, R2 is ethyl, 2- ethyl-1 -hexyl or 3-methylbutan-l-ol.

[0066] Preferably, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the compound Al) is wherein Ri is selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl or C2-Ci2-alkenyl, n is between 1 and 12. In a preferred embodiment, Ri is ethyl, 2- ethyl-1 -hexyl or 3-methylbutan-l-ol.

[0067] Preferably, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the compound B) is wherein R2 is selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl or C2-Ci2-alkenyl n is between 1 and 12,

[0068] Xi can be a single bond, or a double bond

[0069] X2 can be a single bond, or a double bond, with Xi different from X2, preferably wherein in case X2 is a double bond, R2 is selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl. More preferably, R2 is ethyl, 2-ethyl-l- hexyl or 3-methylbutan-l-ol.

[0070] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, R1 and / or R2 is ethyl 2-ethyl-l- hexyl or 3-methylbutan-l-ol. In another aspect, the invention relates to a hair care composition comprising the cosmetic composition as defined above, that can be a hair shampoo and / or conditioning composition.

[0071] In another aspect, the invention relates to a skin care composition comprising the cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0072] In another embodiment of the invention is directed to the use of the cosmetic composition in hair care compositions, preferably in hair conditioning compositions. More preferably, the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention in hair conditioning compositions is for increasing hair hydrophobicity.

[0073] In a further embodiment, the invention is directed to a hair shampoo and / or conditioning composition, wherein the air shampoo and / or conditioning composition comprises:

[0074] D) 0.01 to 1 wt.-% of the inventive cosmetic composition (AB and C),

[0075] E) 0.01 to 2.5 wt.-% of surfactant (such as Rhodapex ESB 70 NAT, Sodium Laureth Sulfate)

[0076] F) 0.01 to 2.5 wt.-% of foaming agent (such as Rhodapon LS94 RPB, Sodium Lauryl Sulphate)

[0077] G) 0.01 to 2.5 wt.-% of thickener (such as Jaguar® C162)

[0078] H) 0.00 to 2.5 wt.-% of guar gum

[0079] I) 0.00 to 2.5 wt.-% of amphoteric surfactant (such as Mirataine® CBS 50G, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine)

[0080] J) 0.00 to 2.5 wt.-% of anionic surfactant

[0081] K) 0.00 to 2.5 wt.-% of preservative (such as Microcare SB)

[0082] L) foam stabilizer (such as Cocamide MIPA)

[0083] M) rheology modifier (such as Alkamuls S6000PEG-150 Distearate)

[0084] N) acid (such as citric acid)

[0085] O) 0.0001 to 95 wt.-% of water

[0086] P) 0.01 to 5 wt.-% of solubilizer (such as Alkamuls PEG 16 CO, PEG-18 Castor Oil Dioleate) wherein the total of D) to P) is 100 %.

[0087] The hair shampoo and / or conditioning compositions of the invention may contain one or more silicone oils, or can be silicone oil free compositions. Preferably, the hair shampoo and / or conditioning compositions of the invention are free of silicone oil. In terms of the invention, silicone oil free compositions contain less than 0,001% by weight of silicone oil, based on the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the compositions contain less than 0,0005%, less than 0,0001%, less than 0,00005%, less than 0,00001%, less than 0,000005%, or less than 0,000001% or silicone oil, based on the total mass of the composition. Preferably the compositions contain less than 5 ppm, less than 1 ppm, less than 0,05 ppm, less than 0,01 ppm, or less than 0,001 ppm of silicone oil, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0088] The cosmetic compositions of the invention can be comprised and used in different cosmetic applications, in particular in haircare compositions and skincare compositions.

[0089] For example, the compositions of the present invention are useful for skincare applications, such as emollient compositions, skin moisturizing compositions and other skincare applications.

[0090] For example, the cosmetic composition of the invention may be a topical composition which can be formulated as a suspension (e.g., a liposomal suspension), emulsion, nano-emulsion, hydrogel, multiphase solution, liposomal dispersion, lotion, cream, gel, essence, foam, liquid, cake, ointment, paste, serum, spray, aerosol, conditioner, shampoo, mask, cleanser, tonic, makeup (e.g., lipstick, foundation, bronzer, rouge, eyeshadow), patch, pencil, powder, towelette, soap, cleanser, stick, mousse, elixir, concentrate and / or after-shave.

[0091] A cosmetic skincare composition can be formulated within a wide range of pH levels. In one embodiment, the pH of the topical composition ranges from 1.0 to 13.0. In some embodiments, the pH of the topical composition ranges from 2.0 to 12.0. Other pH ranges suitable for the subject composition include from 3.5 to 7.0, or from 7.0 to 10.5. Suitable pH adjusters such as sodium hydroxide, citric acid and triethanolamine may be added to bring the pH within the desired range.

[0092] Preferably, a cosmetic skincare composition may comprise additional cosmetic ingredients. These components may be considered active ingredients or inactive ingredients, and can be categorized by the benefit they provide or by their postulated mode of action; however, it is to be understood that the additional components can in some instances provide more than one benefit or operate via more than one mode of action. Therefore, classifications herein are made for the sake of convenience and are not intended to limit the agent to that particular application or applications listed.

[0093] Examples of such cosmetic ingredient classes include: organic solvents, silicones, pH adjusters, chelating agents, gelling agents, proteins, vitamins, emollients, oils, hydroxy acids, exfoliants, retinoids, viscosity modifiers, polymers, minerals, insect repellents, lubricants, preservatives, botanicals, clarifying agents, humectants, non-biological surfactants, antioxidants, thickeners, softeners, sunscreens, moisturizers, dyes, colorants, fragrances, abrasives, absorbents, aesthetic components such as essential oils, skin sensates, astringents, anti-acne agents, anti-caking agents, antifoaming agents, antimicrobial agents, depigmenting agents, anti-inflammatory agents, advanced glycation end-product (AGE) inhibitors, steroids, binders, biological additives, buffering agents, bulking agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, denaturants, external analgesics, keratolytic agents, desquamating agents, keratinocyte proliferation enhancers, collagenase inhibitors, elastase inhibitors, film formers or materials, opacifying agents, propellants, reducing agents, enzymes, sequestrants, skin bleaching and lightening agents, skin-conditioning agents, skin soothing and / or healing agents, thickeners, minerals, vitamins and derivatives thereof.

[0094] Details with respect to these and other suitable cosmetic ingredients can be found in the “International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook,” 10th Edition (2004), published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA), at pp. 2177-2299, which is herein incorporated by reference in its entirety.

[0095] For example, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention can be used in personal care products. For example, the cosmetic compositions can be used by applying the cosmetic composition to an area of skin on a body; washing the area of skin on the body; and rinsing the area of skin on the body.

[0096] For example, a topical cosmetic composition can be formulated as, for example, a suspension, emulsion, nanoemulsion, hydrogel, multiphase solution, liposomal dispersion, lotion, cream, gel, foam, ointment, paste, spray, conditioner, shampoo, mask, cleanser, micellar water, tonic, makeup (e.g., lipstick, foundation, bronzer, rouge, eyeshadow), and / or after-shave.

[0097] For example, the cosmetic composition of the invention can be used for improving the health and / or appearance of skin wherein a topical cosmetic composition according to embodiments of the present invention is applied directly to an area of the subject’s skin in need thereof.

[0098] Moreover, the cosmetic compositions of the invention are preferably used in hair conditioning compositions, preferably wherein said use is for increasing hair hydrophobicity.

[0099] As explained above, the cosmetic compositions of the invention are effective in haircare. For example, the cosmetic compositions are effective in hydrophobizing the hair. For example, the cosmetic composition of the invention is useful in haircare products such as shampoo or conditioning products. Namely, using cosmetic compositions of the invention, hair fibers treated with the mixtures become more hydrophobic in comparison with the fibers treated with individual components. There are also indications that the deposition of oil on the fibers is facilitated by the presence of co-active. This effect of the two actives with respect to their surface properties (more pronounced hydrophobicity) correlated with improved performance in sensorial tests. Also, it is possible to use the haircare compositions provided by the invention for improved surface properties. The mixture of a vegetable oil and a co-active substance can also be used as silicone oil free alternatives for hair conditioners in hair care products.

[0100] Preferably, the cosmetic compositions described herein may further comprise one or more hydrocarbons. More preferably, said hydrocarbons are liquid or solid hydrocarbons, oils or waxes, can be selected from one or more C6-C90 straight or branched hydrocarbons. For example, the hydrocarbons can be selected from straight or branched Ce-Ceo hydrocarbons. Further examples for hydrocarbons are one or more of decane, dodecane, tetradecane, distillates (Fischer-Tropsch): heavy, Cis-Cso-branched, cyclic and linear, CAS: 1262661-88-0, isooctane and squalene.

[0101] Another embodiment of the invention is directed to a process for preparing the cosmetic composition for hair and / or skin care comprising; the step of mixing at least one estolide ester of formula (I), (II) or (III) with at least one at least one vegetable oil from C) and water and at least one further component ofE) to N).

[0102] Another embodiment of the invention is directed to a method of treating the hair and / or skin, comprising the steps of applying a hair shampoo and / or conditioning composition onto wet hair, lathering and removing said shampoo and / or conditioning composition from the hair, characterised in that the hair shampoo and / or conditioning composition comprises at least one estolide ester of formula (I), (II) or (III) with at least one vegetable oil, optionally component E), with the proviso that the shampoo and / or conditioning composition contains at least one component E) or at least one component D).

[0103] Preferred is a method of treating the hair, comprising the following steps: a) applying a hair shampoo composition onto the hair; b) washing the hair with the hair shampoo composition; c) removing the hair shampoo composition from the hair; d) applying a conditioning composition onto wet hair; e) rinsing said conditioning composition from the hair, wherein the shampoo and / or conditioning composition comprises as one component at least one estolide ester of formula (I), (II) or (III) and at least one vegetable oil as described above.

[0104] The hair shampoo and / or conditioning composition of the present invention can comprise water in an amount of from 0.0001 to 95 wt.-% water, preferably from 5 to 90 % by weight relative to the total weight of the hair shampoo and / or conditioning composition.

[0105] It may comprise for instance at least 25 %, for instance at least 50 %, for instance at least 60 % of water, relative to the total weight of the hair shampoo and / or conditioning composition.

[0106] In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium can be composed solely of water. For example, the hair care and / or skin care composition of the invention may further comprise at least one water-miscible organic solvent.

[0107] Preferably, the cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium can be composed of a mixture of water and of a cosmetically acceptable solvent, such as a lower C1-C4 alcohols or such as alkylene glycols. The lower C1-C4 alcohols are preferably chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, and n-butanol. The alkylene glycols are preferably chosen from propylene glycol and glycol ethers.

[0108] The hair care and / or skin carecomposition of the invention may further comprise additional optional ingredients which may bring specific benefits for the intended use. Such optional ingredients may include colorants, pearlescent agents, hydrating agents, preservatives and pH adjusters. The skilled person is able to select according to general knowledge in the art of formulating cosmetic compositions, such as creams, ointments, hair shampoos and conditioners, appropriate such optional ingredients for application purposes.

[0109] Preferably, the hair care and / or skin care composition of the present invention comprises a benefit agent selected from insoluble or partially insoluble ingredients such as conditioners, hair coloring agents, anti-UV agents, fragrances or essential oils, anti-dandruff agents, and provides enhanced deposition of such benefit agent on the hair.

[0110] Preferably, the personal care composition of the present invention further comprises from about 0.1 to about 50 % by weight, more typically from about 0.3 to about 25 % by weight, and still more typically from about 0.5 to 10 % by weight, of one or more benefit agents.

[0111] In general, hair care compositions may optionally comprise, based on 100 % by weight of the personal care composition and independently for each such ingredient, up to about 10%, preferably from 0.5 % to about 5.0 %, of such other ingredients, depending on the desired properties of the hair care composition.

[0112] Preferably, the hair care and / or skin care composition according to the present invention further comprises a fragrance material or perfume.

[0113] Preferably, a “fragrance material or perfume” means any organic substance or composition which has a desired olfactory property and is essentially non-toxic. Such substances or compositions include all fragrance material and perfumes that are commonly used in perfumery or personal care compositions. The compounds involved may be natural, semi-synthetic or synthetic in origin. For example, the composition may comprise from 0.01 to 10 % by weight of the fragrance material or perfume based on the total weight of the composition. In another example, the composition may comprise from 0.1 to 5 % by weight of the fragrance material or perfume based on the total weight of the composition. In still another embodiment, the composition comprises from 0.2 to 2 % by weight of the fragrance material or perfume based on the total weight of the composition.

[0114] A hair care composition provided by the present invention is used in a manner known in the art, for example by application of the composition to the hair and optionally rinsing the composition of the hair with water.

[0115] Preferably, the hair care and / or skin care composition of the invention may have a pH comprised between 4 and 11, for instance between 4 and 6. Preferably, the hair care and / or skin care composition of the invention may be prepared using a concentrated flowable composition.

[0116] The invention is also directed toward concentrates that are suitable to prepare an hair care and / or skin care composition of the invention.

[0117] Concentrates including a mixture of surfactants and / or conditioning agents and / or solubilizer are advantageous as their use would reduce the need to transport a plurality of individual components.

[0118] Personal care compositions are usually prepared by mixing individual surfactants, solubilizers and conditioning agents. These components may be supplied as concentrated solutions which are diluted and / or and combined at appropriate ratios by the formulator. The invention covers any concentrate to be used as component ingredient to prepare a hair care and / or skin care composition of the invention, and especially to concentrates containing limited levels of water (more advantageous from a cost and environmental perspective).

[0119] Furthermore, the present invention also covers any concentrate that can be used to prepare a hair care and / or skin care composition of the invention.

[0120] The viscosity of the hair care and / or skin care composition of the invention is satisfactory per se.

[0121] Furthermore, a composition of the invention may further comprise a thickener. Moreover, the hair care and / or skin care composition of the invention may comprise less than 5 % by weight of an additional thickener.

[0122] In particular, a hair care and / or skin care composition of the invention may comprise less than 5 % by weight of polymeric thickener(s), relative to the total weight of composition, for instance less than 3 % by weight, for instance less than 2 % by weight, for instance less than 1 % by weight.

[0123] Further, a hair care and / or skin care composition of the invention may comprise substantially no polymeric thickener, i.e. from 0 to less than 0.1 % by weight of polymeric thickener per 100 % by weight of the composition, for instance no polymeric thickener, i.e. 0 % by weight of polymeric thickener per 100 % by weight of the composition. A particularly preferable formulation as a basis for a hair care composition according to the invention comprises the following:

[0124] A further example for a hair care formulation in the form of an emulsion is as follows:

[0125] MATERIALS AND METHODS

[0126] The current section is structured in the following manner. Section 1 presents information on the components used in the examples. That includes the actives of interest (with potential conditioning action) and the surfactants or other components employed in the surfactant chassis of a particular active. In section 2 the experimental protocols are described, employed to prepare the formulations, perform the in vitro (wet and dry combing) and in vivo evaluations. 1. Materials.

[0127] Table 2 presents the hair care composition of surfactant chassis of the formulation used in the examples. Table 1. Components, used to prepare the formulations. Table 2. Composition of surfactant chassis of the formulation, oil-infused shampoo.

[0128] 2. Methods The current section is organized in the following manner. Section 2.1 presents the protocols for the preparation of the studied formulation. Section 2.2 explains the protocol for production of home bleached tresses, starting from virgin tresses. In sections 2.3-2.5 the protocols for characterization of the formulation are described: transmittance, viscosity and stability, respectively. In sections 2.6 and 2.7, the procedure for evaluation of the systems in combing test - wet and dry mode, respectively is described. Section 2.8 presents the procedure, used for evaluation of the humidity of the tresses. In 2.8, the protocol for measurement of contact angle of water on hair fibers is described, and section 2.10 explains how the deposit of active on the hair fiber is quantified. Finally, in section 2.11, it is explained how the products are evaluated in sensorial panels.

[0129] 2.1. Protocol for preparation of the formulation.

[0130] The procedure for the preparation of shampoo formulation is as follows.

[0131] The 2 blends (Oil blend and Surfactant thickening blend) were prepared during the main formulation stirring time and added to the main formulation accordingly.

[0132] Oil blend

[0133] • In a beaker, mix pure oil, antioxidant (Tocopherol) and solubilizer (Alkamuls

[0134] PEG 16CO), and ensure a transparent premix. Heat the premix if needed, then cool down under gentle stirring.

[0135] Surfactant thickening blend

[0136] • In another beaker at 65 °C, heat Cocamide MIPA (Mackamide CPA) with water under stirring for 5 to 10 minutes, until homogeneous.

[0137] • Add Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (Rhodapon LS94 RPB) and then PEG- 150

[0138] Distearate (Alkamuls S6000), ensuring homogeneity after each addition. When homogeneous, stop heating and let the mixture stir until it comes back to 25-30 °C.

[0139] • Add the required amount of water to fill the water loss during the heating step and re-homogenize.

[0140] Main Formulation

[0141] • In the main tank, disperse guar (Jaguar® Cl 62) in water at a high stirring speed of 300 rpm and add 0.05 parts of 50% citric acid solution.

[0142] • Add Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine (Mackam CBS 50G) and mix for 15 minutes at 100 rpm.

[0143] • Add Sodium Laureth Sulfate (Rhodapex ESB) and mix for 30 minutes.

[0144] • Add the oil blend under high stirring of 300 rpm for 10 minutes, then reduce the speed to 100 rpm and continue mixing for 15 minutes.

[0145] • Add preservatives (Microcare SB) and mix for 20 minutes.

[0146] • Add the surfactant thickening blend and stir for 50 minutes at 100 rpm.

[0147] • Adjust the pH to 5 with citric acid solution. • Add a minimal amount of salt (NaCl) if needed, to achieve a higher / targeted viscosity.

[0148] • Lastly, add the remaining parts with water and a final check / adjustment of pH

[0149] 4.9 to 5.

[0150] 2.2. Preparation of bleached tresses.

[0151] In the majority of the in vitro experiments, Caucasian tresses are used, Damaged, Level 2. These tresses are mass produced and suitable for experiments like wet combing. However, for the evaluation of the effect of the actives on the wettability of the hair fibers, home bleached tress is needed. Preliminary tests show that the variation of the results (contact angle) with home bleached tresses is significantly lower compared to commercially available tresses. The procedure for bleaching of virgin hair tresses is described below.

[0152] Tresses: 25 of 4 g virgin medium brown DA 450 163 8300

[0153] Commercial products for bleaching:

[0154] ■ « Oxydant creme 30% volume », L’Oreal Professionnel Paris lot 44H304

[0155] ■ « Poudre decol orante Plastifiz Precision », L’Oreal Professionnel Paris lot 44J200

[0156] Equipement:

[0157] 1 Beak in PET capacity 600 ml

[0158] 1 Tripour beak capacity 400 ml

[0159] 1 Small Plastic spatule

[0160] 1 Special hair bleached brush

[0161] 2 Aluminium sheets

[0162] 1 red bulk filled up hot water

[0163] 2 sinks available to rinse Protocol:

[0164] 1. Prepare the mixture based on following: mMixTURE ( / g of hair)=4.75g weigh first powder with a premix with a spatule and use mask and add oxidant cream the mixer when adding water on top in a 600ml beak slowly in 4 minutes.

[0165] 2. Drop half of the mixture on aluminium sheet and spread with the special hair bleached-brush

[0166] 3. Start the timer

[0167] 4. Deposit the tresses and put the last part of mixture on tresses and spread with the brush

[0168] 5. First step: mass fast each tress with the mixture (15s / tress). Insist on roots and tips.

[0169] 6. Second step: mass again each strand more deeply (25s / tress from the top to the bottom). The application time must not exceed 20 min to stay significantly lower than the exposition time.

[0170] 7. Let them stand until 180 minutes elapsed well covered by a aluminum sheet.

[0171] 8. Stop oxidation: remove a big part of bleaching cream and dip all the tresses in the same bulk of water to remove at least all of the bleaching product (less than one minute)

[0172] 9. Rinsing step. 2.3. Measurement of the optical transmittance of the studied systems.

[0173] The transmittance of the formulations and the oils was measured via the following procedure.

[0174] (1) Fill % of the cuvette (over the line) with a formulation sample.

[0175] (2) Ensure the formulation does not contain any air bubbles and remove any dust on the cuvette, for an accurate measurement. If the sample is viscous and air bubbles are present, allow the formulation to rest in the cuvette for at least 6 hours or overnight before measurement.

[0176] (3) Select the wavelength programmed - Lambda 40Bio Shampoo Transparency at 600 nm.

[0177] (4) Calibrate the spectrophotometer’ s transparency of 99 to 100% with DI water as the reference.

[0178] (5) Place the sample cuvette into the spectrometer, with the clear sides of the cuvette parallel to the light source / monochromator and detector.

[0179] (6) Close the lid and run the transmittance measurement.

[0180] 2.4. Measurement of the viscosity of the studied systems.

[0181] The viscosity of the formulations was measured via the following procedure.

[0182] • Formulation is filled (90%) into a 100 mL glass bottle.

[0183] • Attach the selected spindle to the Brookfield instrument and place the spindle into the glass bottle of formulation.

[0184] • Run the selected program for 1 minute for viscosity measurement.

[0185] • For high accuracy / effective measurement:

[0186] - Keep the spindle in the center of the bottle

[0187] - Ensure the spindle does not touch the bottom and the wall of the bottle

[0188] The midline of the spindle is fully submerged in the formulation

[0189] - Ensure that the selected spindle and speed (rpm) provides a good range of viscosity (e.g.: spindle 4 and 10 rpm read a max of 20 000 cP)

[0190] Torque percentage between 10 and 100%

[0191] The viscosity of the vegetable oils was measured via the following procedure.

[0192] • Pure oil is filled (60%) into a 400 mL plastic beaker. • Attach spindle 1 to the Brookfield machine and place the spindle into the plastic beaker of oil.

[0193] • Run the program of spindle 1 at 5 rpm for 1 minute.

[0194] • For high accuracy / effective measurement:

[0195] - Keep the spindle in the center of the bottle

[0196] - Ensure the spindle does not touch the bottom and the wall of the bottle

[0197] The midline of the spindle is fully submerged in the formulation

[0198] - Ensure selected spindle and speed (rpm) provides a good range of viscosity (eg: Spindle 4 and 10 rpm read a max of 20 000 cP) Torque percentage between 10 and 100%

[0199] 2.5. Tests of the storage stability of the formulation.

[0200] The samples were put into glass bottles of 100 ml and stored at three different temperatures: 4 °C, room temperature, 40 °C. On a monthly basis the samples, stored at 4 / 40 °C, were taken out of the fridge / climate chamber, thermo stated for 24 hours and their transmittance, pH and viscosity are measured.

[0201] 2.6. Procedure for wet combing and data interpretation.

[0202] The wet combing was performed via a combing instrument, produced by Diastron. Tresses of Caucasian hair were used, damaged level 2, 4 grams, length 17 mm.

[0203] The hair of the tress is held together by a plastic part, which is attached to the (force) sensor of the instrument. The comb moves down the tress with a constant speed (300 mm / min). The comb has relatively wide teeth (6.9 teeth per centimeter). During this movement the instrument records the force exerted on the sensor. Typical result (force vs. distance) is presented in Figure 1.

[0204] The results presented in Figure 1 can be processed to quantify the softness of the tress, and therefore the effectiveness of the active as a conditioning agent. The following parameters can be utilized:

[0205] • Force in the plateau, Fp.

[0206] • Thermodynamic work for combing in the plateau, PFp.

[0207] • Thermodynamic work for combing for the entire pass of the comb, W.

[0208] • Maximum force, FM.

[0209] The force and the work for combing are a function of the following properties / parameters (at the same speed): • Distance between the teeth of the comb. The narrower the teeth are the greater the resistance is to the motion of the comb. When comparing a range of systems one needs to use the same comb.

[0210] • Inherent softness of the tress, all of the experiments were performed with the same type of tress (Caucasian hair, damaged level 2, 4 g). The quality and properties of these tresses is to a significant extend standardized. However, the inherent softness of the tresses (before treatment with shampoo) can vary significantly.

[0211] • Effectiveness of the conditioning active, deposited on the tress. The conditioning active deposited on the hair can change the softness, which results in lower resistance of the tress to the combing.

[0212] One of the ways to compare the softness of different systems is to compare the total work for combing, W. The lower this value is, the more efficient the respective active is in bringing conditioning to the hair. However, W does not account for the inherent softness of the tress. The efficiency of the active should be judged by the change in the softness of the tress (before and after treatment with the active), and not by the absolute value of the thermodynamic work. That is why in the current description, the parameter W is scaled in the following manner:

[0213] WDL = [(PFBEFORE-PFAFTER) / PFBEFORE] X 100 (1)

[0214] The parameters in the equation above have the following meaning:

[0215] • PFBEFORE - work for combing of the tress after pretreatment (see text below for explanation).

[0216] • PFAFTER - work for combing of the tress after treatment with formulation (see text below for explanation).

[0217] • PPDL - reduction of the work for combing, as a result of the treatment with shampoo, scaled with the initial work for combing. The multiplication by 100 is done in order to present the results in percent.

[0218] In this representation the higher the value of PPDL is, the more efficient the respective active is. It is also possible to use the difference (PFAFTER - PPBEFORE), which by default is negative. In this case, the lower this number is, the more efficient the active is. The practical procedure on how to perform the wet combing test is presented below.

[0219] The procedure consists of three steps: (1) Tress pre-treatment; (2) Treatment of the tress with shampoo; (3) Combing test. Below each of these steps are described. Pretreatment of the tress.

[0220] • Wash for 1 minute the tress with water with temperature 36-37 °C (water temperature is automatically regulated). Water volume rate 60-70 ml / second.

[0221] • Add 2 ml solution of 14 wt. % SLES to the tress.

[0222] • Massage for 1 minute.

[0223] • Rinse for 1 minute.

[0224] • Add solution 2 ml of 14 wt. % SLES to the tress.

[0225] • Massage for 1 minute.

[0226] • Rinse for 1 minute.

[0227] (2) Treatment of tress with shampoo.

[0228] • Homogenize the formulation via an overhead stirrer (20 min, 300 rpm).

[0229] • Pretreat the tress.

[0230] • Weight out 0.8 grams of shampoo (0.2 g of shampoo per one gram of hair tress).

[0231] • Massage for 45 seconds.

[0232] • Rinse for 30 seconds. Water volume rate 60-70 ml / second.

[0233] • Re-apply shampoo once.

[0234] (3) Combing test.

[0235] • Dip in the water.

[0236] • Comb, speed of combing 300 mm / min.

[0237] • With two fingers, remove the excess water.

[0238] • Comb, speed of combing 300 mm / min.

[0239] • Perform combing test.

[0240] • Repeat the step 15 times.

[0241] 2.7. Procedure for dry combing and data interpretation.

[0242] In order to evaluate the conditioning performance of the studied actives the following procedure was used:

[0243] 1. The hair tresses were washed with solution of SLES (concentration 14 %; pH = 6).

[0244] 2. The tresses were dried in climatic room at controlled conditions: relative humidity = 57 %; Temperature = 20 °C. 3. The tresses were subjected to a coming test (speed of combing 300 mm / min) via a comb with narrow teeth (11 teeth per centimeter). At least 10 passes were applied. The average initial total work for combing is calculated (JTBEFORE).

[0245] 4. The tress was than treated with shampoo formulation, as described in the previous section.

[0246] 5. The tress again dried at the same conditions (relative humidity = 57 %; Temperature = 20 °C).

[0247] 6. The tresses were subjected to a coming test (speed of combing 300 mm / min) via a comb with narrow teeth (11 teeth per centimeter). At least 10 passes were applied. The average total work for combing is calculated (JTAFTER).

[0248] 7. The dimensionless work reduction was calculated, PFDL, via equation

[0249] (1).

[0250] 8. The water content of the tress is measured via the procedure described in the next section.

[0251] 2.8. Measurement of the water content in hair tresses.

[0252] Information on the water content of the hair tresses is of essential importance for the interpretation of the experimental results. That is why it is measured via the following procedure.

[0253] (1) 2 g grams of hair fibers was taken from the bottom part of the tress.

[0254] (2) The hair fibers were put in a thermo gravimetric balance (producer: Mettler Toledo; model: HX204). This equipment allows real-time measurement of the mass of a sample during heating.

[0255] (3) The sample was heated at 105°C for a period of time, which is automatically determined by the equipment. The heating is stopped when there is no measurable change in the humidity.

[0256] (4) From the information of the initial and final mass of the tresses, the initial water content of the tress is calculated.

[0257] 2.9. Measurement of the contact angle on hair fiber.

[0258] In the following the principle of the measurement of contact angle on hair fiber is described. The measurement protocol is described in detail in Appendix A. The contact angle on treated hair fibers was measured via tensiometer Kruss K14. The tresses used in this case are home bleached. As shown in ref. 6 the home bleached tresses allow for better reproducibility and therefore clearer evaluation of the experimental trends. The fiber is cut 5 cm from the root. The radius of the fiber is measured via a micrometer. The fiber is dipped in water container with the cuticles directed toward the end of the tip of the fiber placed in the container.

[0259] The instrument measures the downward force, F, exerted on the fiber via a sensitive force sensor, and calculates the contact angle from the following expression: = Z Y COS(9A) (2)

[0260] Here F is the force exerted by the capillary force on the fiber; L is the perimeter of the wetted hair fiber, calculated form the radius R of the hair fiber; 0A is advancing contact angle. This measurement is performed for 10 hair fibers. The outliers of the measurement are removed via the following procedure in Microsoft Excel:

[0261] 1. The values of the first, QI and third, Q3 quartiles of the data are calculated.

[0262] 2. After that the interquartile value is calculated IQV = Q3-Q1.

[0263] 3. The lower and upper acceptable values are calculated via the following formulas:

[0264] LAV = Q1-1.5*IQV

[0265] UAV = Q1+1.5*IQV

[0266] If a specific value of the contact angle is outside the range LAV-UAV, it is discarded.

[0267] Quartile is a type of quantile which divides the number of data points into four parts, or quarters, of more-or-less equal size. The data must be ordered from smallest to largest to compute quartiles; as such, quartiles are a form of order statistic. The three main quartiles are as follows: The first quartile (QI) is defined as the middle number between the smallest number (minimum) and the value that falls between the 25th and 75th percentiles of the sample (which cuts off the first quarter of all the samples). It is also known as the lower quartile, as 25% of the data is below this point. The second quartile (Q2) is the median of a data set; thus 50% of the data lies below this point. The third quartile (Q3) is the middle value between the value that cuts off the last quarter of samples and the highest value (maximum) of the data set. It is known as the upper quartile, as 75% of the data lies below this point.

[0268] 2.10. Measurement of the deposition of actives on hair fibers. The fraction of the deposited actives (oil or estolide ester) on the tresses was measured. The actives were extracted from the treated tresses via organic solvent. After that the obtained solution was analyzed via liquid chromatography (triglyceride) or gas chromatography (estolide ester). The concentration of the respective active in the solution was calculated with the help of a calibration curve for the respective active, build prior to the experiment. This information was then used to calculate the mass fraction of the active deposited on the tress; more precisely the fraction of total active, present in the formulation, which remained on the tress. The procedure is described in detail in Appendix B.

[0269] 2.11. Sensorial panels in hairdresser’s saloon (shampoo formulations).

[0270] The sensorial tests of the shampoo formulations were performed via the following procedure.

[0271] (1) The hair of the model is washed for 1 min.

[0272] (2) The shampoo is applied on the hair for 1.5 minutes. The system of interest is applied to the left, while the benchmark is applied to the right, 6 grams of product each. In some cases more shampoo was applied (10 g), this is done for longer and / or thicker hairs. During this process the properties of foam is assessed in terms of:

[0273] • Flash foam (ease of foam generation).

[0274] • Foam amount.

[0275] • Feeling of the foam.

[0276] • Appearance (brightness) of the foam.

[0277] • Appearance of the bubbles (size, size distribution).

[0278] (3) The shampoo is rinsed off from the hair in the following sequence: (1) 30 seconds, right side; (2) 30 seconds, left side; (3) 45 seconds, right side; (4) 45 seconds, left side. During this step, the sensorial perception of the hair is evaluated with respect to the following parameters:

[0279] • Ease of rinsing.

[0280] • Sensorial perception of the hair.

[0281] (4) The hair is combed and the time for combing of each side is measured.

[0282] (5) The sensorial properties of the hair in wet state is evaluated, namely:

[0283] • Ease of detangling.

[0284] • Softness (roots and lengths).

[0285] • Softness (tips).

[0286] • Cleanliness. • Lightness.

[0287] (6) The hair is dried, and the time for drying is measured.

[0288] (7) The sensorial properties of the hair in dry state is evaluated, namely:

[0289] • Speed of drying.

[0290] • Manageability.

[0291] • Cleanliness.

[0292] • Shine.

[0293] • Softness (roots and lengths).

[0294] • Softness (tips).

[0295] • Homogeneity of treatment.

[0296] • Anti-electrostatic.

[0297] • Hair vitality.

[0298] • Untied effect.

[0299] • Lightness.

[0300] In the end of the panel the hairdresser makes a preference regarding the product with better performance, and explains the rationale of her / his choice. In these tests models with Caucasian hair with damaged hair level 3-5 were employed.

[0301] Appendix A

[0302] Protocol for the measurement of the contact angle of hair fibers:

[0303] Hair treatment

[0304] Materials:

[0305] - Tresses

[0306] - Pre-treatment solution 14% pH: 6

[0307] - Gloves

[0308] - Syringe 2 ml

[0309] - Comb

[0310] - Stopwatch

[0311] - Thermometer

[0312] - Metronome

[0313] - Test tube 21

[0314] Pre-treatment:

[0315] - Leave the wicks to soak for 15 minutes in the water.

[0316] - Check the flow rate (1100ml + / - 40ml for 10s), the water temperature (36.5°C + / - 1°C) and the water hardness if not done (set point: Ix / week). - Remove the wick from the soaking tank and hang it on the rack. Wring out the wick roughly.

[0317] - Use the syringe to withdraw 2ml of washing solution for one wick. Apply the solution to the entire length of the wick.

[0318] - Massage for 1 minute (30s per side) at a metronome pace (108 bips / min).

[0319] - Rinse for 1 minute under water (30s per side) with fingertips, following the metronome rhythm (58 bips / min).

[0320] - Comb through until you get an easy comb through (wide gap).

[0321] Repeat all these steps a second time.

[0322] Treatment of the tresses:

[0323] - Draw up 0.8 ml of shampoo with the syringe. Apply the solution to the entire length of the strand.

[0324] - Massage for 45 seconds at a metronome pace (108bips / min).

[0325] - Rinse for 30 seconds under water (15s per side) with fingertips, respecting the metronome rhythm (58bips / min).

[0326] - Wring out the strand in 1 pass

[0327] - Comb through until the comb passes easily (wide gap).

[0328] Repeat all these steps a second time

[0329] Contact angle measurement

[0330] Materials:

[0331] - Scissors

[0332] - Pliers

[0333] - Aluminum foil

[0334] - Crystallizer (25ml)

[0335] - Micrometer

[0336] To measure the contact angle of the hair fibres it is important to always measure the surface tension of the water in which the fibres will be soaked. This step is very important in order to verify that the water is completely free of impurities which could distort the results.

[0337] - Measurement of the surface tension of (distilled) water

[0338] Clean the crystallizer with DECON90 and rinse with tap water and distilled water. Allow to dry on a clean surface.

[0339] - Fill the crystallizer with distilled water.

[0340] - Place the crystallizer on the balance platform.

[0341] - Then hang the rod on the scale. - Close the scale doors and turn on the scale.

[0342] - To measure the surface tension of the water you will then need the platinum blade and a small hook

[0343] - Heat the platinum blade twice with the Bunsen burner.

[0344] - Hang the hook, then the turntable blade on the hook and raise the platform using the knob on the right of the scale until the water level is flush with the blade without touching it.

[0345] Surface and Interfacial Tension was measured using the KRUSS Laboratory Desktop 3.2 application.

[0346] - Measure as many times as necessary to obtain a tension of 72.5 mN / m. If the tension is too low, either the crystallizer is not clean or the water temperature is above 20°C.

[0347] Hair selection

[0348] - Select a fiber and place it on paper: root to top of the stem

[0349] - Using a ruler, cut about 5 cm from the root and 5 cm from the tip

[0350] - Measure the diameter of the fiber: using the pliers, grab the fiber and position it in the micrometer.

[0351] - Place the fibre on the small sticky tip and cut so that 3 / 4 mm of hair remains above the tip

[0352] - Check that the fibre is positioned straight

[0353] Measurement of the hair contact angle

[0354] Place the small tip where the hair is attached on the rod and place the rod on the scale

[0355] - Raise the platform until the water level is flush with the hair

[0356] - Make sure that the hair is straight, if not, straighten it without damaging it with the small pliers

[0357] Appendix B

[0358] Protocol of the measurement with LC / MS (Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry), GC (Gas chromatography)

[0359] SAMPLE PREPARATION:

[0360] - Remove approximately 400 mg of hair from a 16-ml falcon tube and pack the hair into the bottom of the falcon.

[0361] - Add approx. 4.5ml extraction solvent (CH2C12-MeOH 50 / 50)

[0362] - Vortex for lh30. - Remove the liquid part and perform a second extraction 4.5ml extraction solvent then vortex for lh30

[0363] - Melt the liquid fractions and evaporate to dryness on a GreenHouse Blowdown Evaporator (Radleys). - Perform L / L extraction by adding 3 mL H2O and 3 mL CH2C12

[0364] - Remove the aqueous phase

[0365] - Evaporate again to dryness with the evaporator

[0366] - Resume in 5g BuOH to make the assay solutions

[0367] - Filter the solution obtained

[0368]

[0369] Examples

[0370] Example 1 : 1) Synthesis of fatty based estolide (ricinoleic acid)

[0371] The reaction was conducted under an inert argon atmosphere. In a IL three-necked round reactor equipped with a magnetic stirrer, a heater, a condenser, a temperature probe and an dropping funnel, 300g (1.005 mol) of ricinoleic acid and 7.14 g (0. lOlmol) (0.1% molar) of paratoluene sulfonic acid were introduced. The mixture was heated to 95 °C, under 140 mbar for 7 hours. The mixture was then allowed to cool down to room temperature.

[0372] The conversion of alcohol groups into esters (82 %) was determined by 1H NMR.

[0373] The free ricinoleic acid (1.7 wt%) was determined by HPLC.

[0374] 2) Esterification of fatty acid based estolide (ricinoleic acid) with end-capping agent (ethanol) The reaction was conducted under an inert argon atmosphere. In a IL three-necked round reactor equipped with a magnetic stirrer, a heater, a condenser, a temperature probe and an dropping funnel, 150g of estolide, 5.45 of ethanol and 15g of paratoluene sulfonic acid were introduced. The mixture was heated to 95 °C for 2 hours. Then a reduced pressure of 140 mbar was applied for one hour to eliminate water and unreacted ethanol. Then, 2.23 g of ethanol was introduced to the mixture at atmospheric pressure and the mixture was maintained at 95 °C under stirring for 2 hours. Then a reduced pressure of 140 mbar was applied for one hour to eliminate water and unreacted ethanol. The addition of the same amount of ethanol was repeated once.

[0375] The conversion of alcohol groups into esters (> 95 %) was determined by 1HNMR. The free ricinoleic acid (0.4 wt%) was determined by HPLC.

[0376] Example 2 - Synthesis of Diglvcerides

[0377] Two different compositions can be achieved using different methods to obtain higher levels of diglycerides from triglycerides using enzymes as catalysts. It is possible to obtain a mixture of diglycerides, monoglycerides and fatty acids removed from the triglyceride structure through the enzymatic hydrolysis procedure, or monoglycerides and diglycerides without the presence of free fatty acid, by glycerolysis reaction also using lipases as catalysts in the process.

[0378] 1) Enzymatic Hydrolysis

[0379] In this process, diglycerides are obtained in greater content and the fatty acids remain free in the mixture of final components.

[0380] Raw Material List:

[0381] 1) Vegetable oil with triglyceride content, e.g. Coconut Oil, Babassu Oil, Crambe Oil, Pequi Oil, Mango Oil, Grape Oil, Maracuja Oil, Pumpkin Seed Oil or Pracaxi Oil.

[0382] 2) Vegetable Glycerin

[0383] 3) Lipase, e.g. NZ 435 or Lipura Flex enzyme (lipase B from Candida Antarctica), supplied by Novozymes

[0384] Synthesis Method

[0385] - The triglyceride water and lipase are loaded in a glass reactor;

[0386] - The reactor is heating using water to 65-70°C of temperature;

[0387] - Mechanical agitation is adopted for homogenization; - The hydrolysis procedure continues until the acid index is equivalent to 1 / 3 of the oil's saponification index.

[0388] Exemplary reaction scheme (generalized structures):

[0389] Other examples:

[0390] Partial hydrolysis of Mango Oil, Babassu Oil and Crambe Oil for high diglyceride content using lipases as hydrolysis catalysts.

[0391] Raw Material: Triglycerides (Mango, Babassu or Crambe Oil), Lipase CALB - lipase B, Candida antarctica. TL100 L - lipase originating from Thermomyces lanuginosus Novozymes supplier, water.

[0392] Protocol: The triglyceride, water and enzyme mixture are loaded into a glass reactor, heated to 65-70°C, mechanical stirring. The acid value is monitored until it represents the equivalent of the diglyceride content predicted by the oil's Saponification Index. The agitation is stopped, the aqueous phase is drained and the mixture of diglycerides and fatty acids is dried at 120°C under vacuum. An average reaction time can be 6-12 hours.

[0393] Typical Composition for mango oil:

[0394] Palmitic Acid (C16:0) 6 - 13%

[0395] Stearic Acid (Cl 8:0) 37 - 42%

[0396] Oleic Acid (Cl 8: 1) 38 - 45%

[0397] Linoleic Acid (Cl 8:2) 5 - 8% Linolenic Acid (C18:3) 0,3 - 5% Gadoleic acid (C20:l) 0 - 2,5% Behenic Acid (C22:0) 0,3 - 1,3% Oil Saponification Index 190 mg KOH / g

[0398] Technical specification of Mango Diester: Acidity Index 55 - 75 mg KOH / g Saponification Index 180 - 215 mg KOH / g Hydroxyl Index 40 - 60 mg KOH / g

[0399] Typical Composition for Babassu Oil Caprylic Acid (C8:0) 2,6 - 7,3% Capric Acid (Cl 0:0) 1,2 - 7,6% Lauric Acid (C12:0) 40,0 - 55,0 % Myristic Acid (C14:0) 11,0 - 27,0% Palmitic Acid (C16:0) 5,2 - 11,0% Stearic Acid (Cl 8:0) 1,8 - 7,4% Oleic Acid (C18:l) 9,0 - 20,0% Linoleic Acid (Cl 8:2) 1,4 - 6,6%

[0400] Oil Saponification Index 251,0mg KOH / g

[0401] Technical Specification of Babassu Diester: Acidity Index 75 - 105 mg KOH / g Saponification Index 240 - 260 mg KOH / g Hydroxyl Index 80 - 110 mg KOH / g

[0402] Typical Composition for Crambe Oil Palmitic Acid (Cl 6:0) 3,4% Stearic Acid (Cl 8:0) 11% Oleic Acid (Cl 8:1) 17,8% Linoleic Acid (C18:2) 6,1% Linolenic Acid (C18:3) 2,8%

[0403] Arachi die Acid (C20): 1,7%

[0404] Eicosenoic Acid (C20:l) 6,7% Behenic Acid (C22): 3,7 % Erucic Acid (C22:l) 56,7% Oil Saponification Index 171 mg KOH / g

[0405] Technical Specification of Crambe Diester Acidity Index 55 - 95 mg KOH / g

[0406] Saponification Index 150 - 190 mg KOH / g

[0407] Hydroxyl Index 25 - 65 mg KOH / g

[0408] 2) Enzymatic Glycerolysis

[0409] This procedure consists of obtaining a high content of diglycerides from the reaction of triglyceride with glycerin, using lipases as catalysts, the fatty acids removed from the triglyceride structure will be esterified with glycerin, generating the final product with a low acidity index. An average reaction time can be 6-12 hours.

[0410] Raw Material List:

[0411] 1) Vegetable oil with triglyceride content, e.g. Coconut Oil, Babassu Oil, Crambe Oil, Pequi Oil, Mango Oil, Grape Oil, Maracuja Oil, Pumpkin Seed Oil or Pracaxi Oil.

[0412] 2) Lipases (e.g. NZ 435, Lipura Flex, supplied by Novozymes)

[0413] 3) vegetable glycerin

[0414] Synthesis Method

[0415] The triglyceride, 1 / 4-1 / 2 part of glycerin by mole, and the lipase is loaded in a glass reactor, homogenized using mechanical agitation. The amount of glycerin is divided into 4 parts which is added consecutively to the reaction. The temperature increases to 65-70°C, and mechanical stirring is performed for homogenization and reaction. The remainder of the glycerin is added every 12 hours. Once the addition of glycerin is complete, the acid number is analyzed and the reaction continues until the Acid Number is below 1.0 mg KOH / g.

[0416] Generic representation: formulas represent an oleic acid triglyceride (generic oil), tri glyceryl oleate.

[0417] Further example:

[0418] Glycerolysis of Mango Oil to greater yield of diglyceride, low fatty acid free content using lipase NZ435 as a catalyst.

[0419] Mango Oil typical composition:

[0420] Palmitic Acid (C16:0) 6 - 13%

[0421] Stearic Acid (Cl 8:0) 37 - 42%

[0422] Oleic Acid (Cl 8:1) 38 - 45% Linoleic Acid (C18:2) 5 - 8%

[0423] Linolenic Acid (C18:3) 0,3 - 5%

[0424] Gadoleic acid (C20:l) 0 - 2,5%

[0425] Behenic Acid (C22:0) 0,3 - 1,3%

[0426] Analysis results obtained after complete glycerolysis procedure: Acid Index (IA) 0,28 mg KOH / g, Alcohol Index (IOH) 154,68 mg KOH / g, Monoglycerides 20,6%, Diglycerides 79%, Free Glycerol 1,16%, Peroxides 3,9%.

Claims

C L A I M S1. A cosmetic composition (AB) for hair and / or skin care comprising:A) 0.001 to 20 wt.-% of at least one component selected from at least one estolide ester compoundAl) of formula (I)wherein Ri is selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl or C2-Ci2-alkenyl, nl and n2 are independently between 1 and 12, ml is between 1 and 10, orA2) of formula (II)wherein R2 is selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl or C2-Ci2-alkenyl, n3 and n5 are independently between 1 and 13, ml is between 1 and 10, orB) 0.001 to 20 wt.-% of an estolide ester of formula (III):wherein R2 is selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl or C2-Ci2-alkenyl, n3 and n5 are independently between 1 and 10, ml is between 1 and 12,Xi can be a single bond, or a double bondX2 can be a single bond, or a double bond, with Xi different from X2, preferably wherein in case X2 is a double bond, R2 is selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl, andC) 80 to 99.999 wt.-% of at least one vegetable oil selected from the group, consisting of Coriander seed oil, Groundnut oil, Rice bran wax, Evening primrose oil, Apricot kernel oil, Grapeseed oil, Rice bran oil, Linseed oil, Mongongo oil, Hibiscus oil, Babassu seed oil, Hazelnut oil, Wheatgerm oil, Baobab oil, Rose flower oil, Corngerm oil, Walnut seed oil, Canola (Rapeseed) oil, Brazil nut oil, Baobab seed oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Camelina sativa seed oil, Babassu nut oil, Camellia oil, Macadamia Integrifolia S. Oil, Crambe oil, Manila oil, Sesame seed oil, Macadamia Temifolia S. Oil, Soybean oil, Avocado oil, Jojoba seed oil, Safflower oil, Shea butter, Argan oil, Guar oil, Coconut oil, Mango oil, Pracaxi Oil, Pumpkin Seed Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Pequi Oil, Passion Fruit Oil, Amaranthus oil, Kokum oil, Cassia oil, and Sunflower oil.

2. The cosmetic composition for hair and / or skin care according to claim 1, wherein the at least one vegetable oil is selected from the group consisting of Avocado oil, Baobab oil, Guar oil, Amaranthus oil, Jojoba oil, Cassia oil, Argan oil, Coconut oil, Rice Bran oil, and Crambe Oil.

3. The cosmetic composition for hair and / or skin care according to claim 1 or 2, wherein compound A2) iswherein R2 is selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl or C2-Ci2-alkenyl, n is between 1 and 13.

4. The cosmetic composition for hair and / or skin care according to any one of the claims 1 to 3, wherein compound Al) iswherein Ri is selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl or C2-Ci2-alkenyl, n is between 1 and 12.

5. The cosmetic composition for hair and / or skin care according to any one of the claims 1 to 4, wherein compound B) iswherein R2 is selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl or C2-Ci2-alkenyln is between 1 and 12,Xi can be a single bond, or a double bondX2 can be a single bond, or a double bond, with Xi different from X2, preferably wherein in case X2 is a double bond, R2 is selected from the group of branched or linear Ci-Ci2-alkyl.

6. The cosmetic composition for hair and / or skin care according to any one of the claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition comprises one or more hydrocarbons, preferably said hydrocarbons being liquid or solid hydrocarbons, oils or waxes, are selected from one or more C6-C90 straight or branched hydrocarbons, more preferably selected from straight or branched Ce-Ceo hydrocarbons.

7. The cosmetic composition for hair and / or skin care according to any one of the claims 1 to 6, wherein Ri and / or R2 are ethyl, 2-ethyl-l -hexyl or 3-methylbutan- l-ol.

8. A hair care composition comprising the cosmetic composition according to any one of the claims 1 to 7, said hair composition being a hair shampoo and / or conditioning composition.

9. A skin care composition comprising the cosmetic composition according to any one of the claims 1 to 7.

10. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in hair care compositions, preferably in hair conditioning compositions, preferably wherein said use is for increasing hair hydrophobicity.

11. A hair shampoo and / or conditioning composition, wherein air shampoo and / or conditioning composition comprises:D) 0.01 to 1 wt.-% the inventive cosmetic composition (AB and C) as described in claims 1 to 7,E) 0.01 to 2.5 wt.-% surfactantF) 0.01 to 2.5 wt.-% foaming agentG) 0.01 to 2.5 wt.-% thickenerH) 0.00 to 2.5 wt.-% guar gumI) 0.00 to 2.5 wt.-% amphoteric surfactantJ) 0.00 to 2.5 wt.-% anionic surfactantK) 0.00 to 2.5 wt.-% preservativeL) foam stabilizer)M) rheology modifierN) acidO) 0.0001 to 95 wt.-% waterP) 0.01 to 5 wt.-% solubilizer wherein the total of D) to P) is 100 %.

12. A process for preparing a cosmetic composition for hair and / or skin care according to claims 1 to 7 comprising: the step of mixing at least one estolide ester of formula (I), (II) or (III) with at least one at least one vegetable oil from C) according to claims 1 to 7 and water and at least one further component of E) to N) as described in claim 11.

13. A method of treating the hair and / or skin, comprising the steps of applying a hair shampoo and / or conditioning composition onto wet hair, lathering and removing said shampoo and / or conditioning composition from the hair, characterised in that the hair shampoo and / or conditioning composition comprises at least one estolide ester of formula (I), (II) or (III) with at least one vegetable oil as described in any of claims 1 to 7, optionally component E), with the proviso that the shampoo and / or conditioning composition contains at least one component E) or at least one component D).

14. A method of treating the hair according to claim 13, comprising the following steps: a) applying a hair shampoo composition onto the hair; b) washing the hair with the hair shampoo composition; c) removing the hair shampoo composition from the hair; d) applying a conditioning composition onto wet hair; e) rinsing said conditioning composition from the hair, wherein the shampoo and / or conditioning composition comprises as one component at least one estolide ester of formula (I), (II) or (III) with at least one vegetable oil.

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