Hair thickening compositions

Abstract

Compositions containing at least one phospholipid and at least three ellagitannin-containing botanicals provide a hair thickening effect when applied to hair.

Description

[0001] HAIR THICKENING COMPOSITIONS

[0002] FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0003] The present invention pertains to hair treatment compositions, more specifically to compositions and methods that thicken the diameter of human hair fibers.

[0004] BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0005] Having a full, healthy and manageable head of hair is a common concern of men and women. Other than the number of hair fibers on a person’s head, a full head of natural, healthy, manageable hair depends on the diameter and cross- sectional area of the hair fibers, as well as various mechanical properties thereof.

[0006] For the purposes of this description, fine hair diameter is defined as less than about 65p, medium hair diameter as about 65p to about 90p, and coarse hair diameter as more than about 90p.

[0007] The outermost layer of a hair fiber is the cuticle, the surface of which is coated with a lipid substance that renders the outer surface of the hair hydrophobic. Fine hair fibers do not have the firmness, elasticity and mechanical strength of medium and coarse hair fibers. As a result, a head of fine hair is comparatively more difficult to style and control, being less manageable, more susceptible to static electric charges, and more subject to “flyaway”. Furthermore, because of the smaller fiber diameter, a head of fine hair may be perceived as “thin” or not very full.

[0008] A common way to address some of these problems is hairspray. Hairspray may be used to hold the hair in place, but hairspray is not an ideal solution from a health and waste stream point of view. Hairspray also leaves the hair sticky, heavy, and feeling unnatural.

[0009] Volumizing products that add fullness or volume to a head of hair are known. Various conventional volumizing products often achieve a volumizing effect by depositing a film on the external surface of the hair. Many such products utilize synthetic ingredients such as polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP), vinyl acetate (VA), and acrylates to form the film. However, noticeable drawbacks are associated with many of these products, including weighing the hair down, stiff and sticky hair, and poor hair styling attributes. Methods of swelling the cuticle of the hair in order to deliver actives to the interior of the hair fiber are also known. Various kinds of hair products use this approach, including products to color or style the hair. However, swelling the cuticle causes certain damage to the hair, especially if done repeatedly over time. Generally, hair treated in this fashion may be weakened and made more brittle.

[0010] Thus, there is still a need for safe and effective compositions for consumers, which significantly increase the mass and diameter of hair fibers. With such compositions, hair is rendered fuller and more manageable, and the effect should be applicable to fine, medium, and coarse hair. Additionally, a desired composition achieves a hair thickening effect without leaving a sticky residue or causing a weighed down feeling on the hair. A desired composition also should not cause any damage to the cuticle or cortex of the hair.

[0011] SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0012] Hair thickening compositions and methods for preparing the hair thickening compositions are provided herein.

[0013] The invention is directed to hair thickening compositions comprising (a) at least one phospholipid and (b) at least three ellagitannin-containing botanicals.

[0014] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0015] Definitions and Conventions

[0016] The term, "comprising" means that a list of elements is not necessarily limited to those explicitly recited.

[0017] As used herein, "hair" means mammalian hair including scalp hair, facial hair and body hair, and particularly hair of the human head.

[0018] As used herein, "cosmetically acceptable" means that compositions or components are suitable for use in contact with human keratinous tissue.

[0019] As used herein, “naturally occurring” means existing by nature and without artificial aid.

[0020] As used herein, “botanical” means a substance derived from a plant, which is cosmetically acceptable.

[0021] The term "molecular weight" refers to the weight average molecular weight, unless otherwise stated. Unless otherwise stated: all numerical amounts are understood to be modified by the word "about," all percentages are by weight of the total composition, and all ratios are weight ratios.

[0022] It should be understood that every numerical range expressly recited herein will include every narrower numerical range that falls within such broader numerical range, as if such narrower numerical ranges were all expressly recited herein.

[0023] As used herein, the singular forms “a,” “an,” and “the” include the plural reference unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. Thus, for example, a reference to “an element” is a reference to one or more elements and includes equivalents thereof known to those skilled in the art. Similarly, for another example, a reference to “a step” or “a means” is a reference to one or more steps or means and may include sub-steps and subservient means.

[0024] As used herein, a sentence reciting a string of alternates is to be interpreted as if a string of sentences were provided such that each given alternate was provided in a sentence by itself. For example, the sentence “In some embodiments, the composition comprises A, B, or C” is to be interpreted as if written as the following three separate sentences: “In some embodiments, the composition comprises A. In some embodiments, the composition comprises B. In some embodiments, the composition comprises C.” As another example, the sentence “In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least A, B, or C” is to be interpreted as if written as the following three separate sentences: “In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least A. In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least B. In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least C.”

[0025] As used herein, “and / or” means “and” or “or”. For example, “A and / or B” means “A, B, or both A and B,” and “A, B, C, and / or D” means “A, B, C, D, or a combination thereof,” and said “A, B, C, D, or a combination thereof” means any subset of A, B, C, and D, for example, a single member subset (e.g., A or B or C or D), a two-member subset (e.g., A and B; A and C; etc.), or a three-member subset (e.g., A, B, and C; or A, B, and D; etc.), or all four members (e.g., A, B, C, and D).

[0026] Hair Thickening Composition

[0027] Described herein are hair thickening compositions comprising: at least one phospholipid, and at least three ellagitannin-containing botanicals.

[0028] In the present invention, the phospholipid allows for better emulsification of the ellagitannin-containing botanicals, by breaking down the botanicals into small particles / droplets. The synergistic approach allows for the small particles / droplets to be more evenly distributed and deposited along a hair fiber, thereby increasing its diameter.

[0029] It has also surprisingly been found that a composition of at least three ellagitannin-containing botanicals with a phospholipid provides better hair thickening results compared to a composition of one ellagitannin-containing botanical with a phospholipid, where a total amount of ellagitannin-containing botanicals in both compositions is the same.

[0030] Additional optional cosmetically acceptable components not described herein may also be included in the hair thickening composition. However, in general, any additional component that hinders the emulsification and distribution of hair thickening ingredients should be used sparingly or not at all.

[0031] The hair thickening composition can be in the form of a solution or an emulsion. Additionally, the hair thickening composition can be for a leave-in application and / or a rinse-out application. In some embodiments, the hair thickening composition is a conditioner, which can be either a rinse-out conditioner or a leave-in conditioner.

[0032] Phospholipid

[0033] In the present invention, the phospholipid has an emulsification ability to break down the ellagitannin-containing botanicals into small particles / droplets, thereby allowing for even distribution along a hair fiber.

[0034] In some embodiments, the phospholipid is a compound of the following formula:

[0035] In the formula above, R1 and R2 are hydrogenated alkyl groups, and may be the same or different. R1 and R2 are preferably hydrogenated C10 - C22 alkyl groups, particularly preferably are hydrogenated C15 - C19 alkyl groups. In the formula above, X is a choline group.

[0036] The hair thickening composition may contain one or more of the compounds of the above formula. A non-limiting example of the compounds is Lecinol S-10, a hydrogenated lecithin, available from Barnet Products Corporation.

[0037] In some embodiments, the phospholipid is naturally derived. For example, the phospholipid could be selected from soybean seed extract, rapeseed extract, sunflower seed extract, flax seed extract, and wheat germ extract. A non-limiting example is Lysofix™ Liquid, a mixture of soybean seed extract & glycerin, available from Kemin Industries, Inc.

[0038] Particularly preferably, the phospholipid is hydrogenated lecithin or a soybean seed extract.

[0039] The hair thickening composition may comprise at least one phospholipid in an amount of 0.05 to 20 % by weight, preferably 0.05 to 10 % by weight, further preferably 0.05 to 5 % by weight, and particularly preferably 0.40 to 5 % by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the hair thickening composition.

[0040] Ellagitannin-Containing Botanicals

[0041] In the present invention, the ellagitannin-containing botanicals can be broken down by the phospholipid into small particles / droplets, in order to be evenly distributed along a hair fiber.

[0042] Each ellagitannin-containing botanical comprises ellagitannin in an amount of 0.1 % by weight or more, based on a dried mass of the botanical. In some preferred embodiments, the ellagitannin-containing botanical is a high ellagitannin-containing botanical which comprises ellagitannin in an amount of 1 .0% by weight or more, based on a dried mass of the botanical.

[0043] In some embodiments, the ellagitannin-containing botanicals are botanicals of a genus selected from the group consisting of Phyllanthus, Epilobium, Terminalia, Punica, Camellia, Quercus, Rubus, Fragaria, and Potentilla. Preferably, the ellagitannin-containing botanicals are botanicals of a genus selected from the group consisting of Phyllanthus, Epilobium, and Camellia. Particularly preferably, at least one of the ellagitannin-containing botanicals is a botanical of the Phyllanthus genus.

[0044] In some embodiments, the ellagitannin-containing botanicals are botanicals of a species selected from the group consisting of Epilobium angustifolium, Epilobium fleischeri, Punica granatum, Camellia sinensis, Camellia japonica, Fragaria vesca, Fragaria x ananassa, Fragaria chiloensis, Potentilla indica, and Phyllanthus emblica (Emblica officinalis). Preferably, the ellagitannin-containing botanicals are botanicals of a species selected from the group consisting of Emblica officinalis, Camellia sinensis, and Epilobium fleischeri. Particularly preferably, at least one of the ellagitannin-containing botanicals is an Emblica officinalis fruit extract.

[0045] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair thickening composition comprises an Emblica officinalis fruit extract, a Camellia sinensis leaf extract, and an Epilobium fleischeri (Flower / Leaf / Stem) extract. In this embodiment, a preferred weight ratio of the Emblica officinalis fruit extract to the Camellia sinensis leaf extract to the Epilobium fleischeri extract is 0.04 - 1 : 0.04 - 1 : 0.04 - 1 ; particularly preferably 0.05 : 0.05 : 0.04 - 0.07.

[0046] The hair thickening composition may comprise each ellagitannin-containing botanical in an amount of 0.001 to 5 % by weight, preferably 0.04 to 1 % by weight, and particularly preferably 0.04 to 0.25 % by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the hair thickening composition.

[0047] The hair thickening composition may comprise a total amount of ellagitannin- containing botanicals in an amount of 0.001 to 5 % by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1 % by weight, further preferably 0.05 to 0.25 % by weight, and particularly preferably 0.14 to 0.17 % by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the hair thickening composition.

[0048] Additionally, in the hair thickening composition, a weight ratio of the phospholipid to a total amount of the ellagitannin-containing botanicals may be in a range of 0.05 : 0.001 to 5.00 : 1 .00, preferably 0.05 : 0.001 to 1 .00 : 0.25, and particularly preferably 0.42 : 0.14 to 3.11 : 0.17.

[0049] Additional Components

[0050] In some embodiments, the hair thickening composition is an aqueous-based composition, an alcohol-based composition, or a mixture thereof. In these embodiments, the hair thickening composition comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier which is aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous-alcoholic. This cosmetically acceptable base is not particularly limited, so long as it does not hinder the hair thickening composition from evenly distributing along a hair fiber as small droplets / particles. A composition with an aqueous base may comprise incidental amounts of alcohol (i.e. less than about 1%). The hair thickening composition may comprise an aqueous carrier, alcoholic carrier, or aqueous-alcoholic carrier from about 20% to about 98% by weight, preferably from about 30% to about 96% by weight, particularly preferably from about 50% to about 95% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the hair thickening composition.

[0051] The hair thickening composition may also comprise additional optional cosmetic components. Examples of additional optional cosmetic components may include fragrance oils, antioxidants, preservatives, emulsifiers, stabilizers, and / or other active ingredients. However, any additional component that hinders the emulsification and distribution of hair thickening ingredients should be used sparingly or not at all.

[0052] Method of Making Hair Thickening Composition

[0053] The present invention is also directed to methods of making the compositions described herein.

[0054] The hair thickening composition according to the present invention may be made by adding the phospholipid to a first phase, and mixing the first phase with a second phase. The first phase and second phase are an oil phase and an aqueous phase, respectively, or vice versa. Preferably, at least one of the ellagitannin- containing botanicals is present in the oil phase.

[0055] An optional alcoholic phase may also be mixed with the aqueous phase and oil phase. The alcoholic phase can be mixed with either the aqueous phase or oil phase before the aqueous and oil phases are combined, or can be mixed in during or after the aqueous and oil phases are combined.

[0056] Additional optional cosmetically acceptable ingredients can also be included in the aqueous phase, the oil phase, the optional alcoholic phase, or can be added after the phases are combined.

[0057] In some embodiments, the first phase may be heated to activate the phospholipid, thereby allowing the phospholipid to form liposomes, or small oil / emulsifier droplets. In particular, when the phospholipid is hydrogenated lecithin, the first phase is heated to a temperature of 80 - 85 °C.

[0058] A preferred embodiment of the method involves: adding the at least one phospholipid to an aqueous phase, heating the aqueous phase to a temperature of 80 - 85 °C, and mixing the aqueous phase with an oil phase comprising at least one of the three ellagitannin-containing botanicals.

[0059] A particularly preferred embodiment of the method described above further involves combining an alcoholic phase with either the aqueous phase or the oil phase before the mixing of the aqueous phase and oil phase, or alternatively, adding the alcoholic phase after the aqueous and oil phases are mixed.

[0060] EXAMPLES

[0061] The following examples are not to be construed as limitations of the invention, as many variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

[0062] Hair Thickening Composition Examples

[0063] The following Table 1 details the ingredients of composition examples 1 - 3, with example 3 being a comparative example. All ingredient amounts are shown in their weight percentages, relative to the total weight of the corresponding composition. Table 1 : Hair Thickening Composition Examples 1 - 3

[0064] 1 2 3

[0065] Lysofix Liquid13.11

[0066] Phospholipid

[0067] Lecinol S-1020.84 0.12

[0068] Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract 0.05 0.05 0.05

[0069] Ellagitannin- Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract 0.05 0.05

[0070] Containing Botanical

[0071] Epilobium Fleischeri Flower / Leaf / Stem _n7_n7

[0072] Extract

[0073] Oleth-5 0.41 0.41

[0074] Oleth-10 Phosphate 0.21 0.21

[0075] _ Emu ilsi ffier / / S*ta kbTilizer Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylaten. .n.c

[0076] C _rosspo ,lymer 0.41 0.15

[0077] Cetrimonium Chloride 0.79

[0078] Dicetyldimonium Chloride 1 .49

[0079] Thickening Agent . Hy3droly3zed Rice Protein 0.11

[0080] Alcohol 7.18 6.53 2.13

[0081] Medium Water 87.58 90.77 83.18

[0082] Oil 0.93 0.93 12.12

[0083] 1Lysofix Liquid, available from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, is mixture of Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract and Glycerin.

[0084] 2Lecinol S-10, available from Barnet Products, is hydrogenated lecithin.

[0085] The following Table 2 details the ingredients of composition example 4. All ingredient amounts are shown in their weight percentages, relative to the total weight of the corresponding composition.

[0086] Table 2: Hair Thickening Composition Example 4

[0087] 4

[0088] Phospholipid Lysofix Liquid10.42

[0089] Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract 0.05

[0090] Ellagitannin- Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract 0.05

[0091] Containing Botanical

[0092] Epilobium Fleischeri

[0093] Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract

[0094] Hydroxypropyl Cellulose 0.42

[0095] Emulsifier / Stabilizer

[0096] Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose 0.21

[0097] Alcohol 69.11

[0098] Medium Water 28.73

[0099] Oil 0.95

[0100] 1Lysofix Liquid, available from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, is mixture of Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract and Glycerin.

[0101] The following Table 3 details the ingredients of comparative composition examples 5 - 8. All ingredient amounts are shown in their weight percentages, relative to the total weight of the corresponding composition.

[0102] Table 3: Hair Thickening Composition Examples 5 - 8

[0103] 5 6 7 8

[0104] Phospholipid Lysofix Liquid10.05 0.40 1.00 5.00

[0105] Ellagitannin- Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract 0.001 0.05 0.25 1 .00

[0106] Containing Botanical

[0107] Solvent Water 99.949 99.55 98.75 94.00

[0108] 1Lysofix Liquid, available from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, is mixture of Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract and Glycerin.

[0109] Hair Diameter Testing

[0110] Examples 1-3 and 5-8 were then used in the hair diameter testing described below.

[0111] Testing protocol for the leave in application (Examples 1 , 2, and 5-8):

[0112] 1 . Washing a virgin or bleached tress with 5% sodium lauryl sulfate and letting it equilibrate overnight at 55% relative humidity. 2. Crimping hairs using AAS-1600 auto assembly system and letting them equilibrate overnight at 55% relative humidity.

[0113] 3. Taking initial cross-sectional area readings of each hair fiber (laser scan micrometer takes 5 readings for each hair fiber) at 55% relative humidity.

[0114] 4. Submerging each hair in its corresponding solution for 30min using a rotary cassette.

[0115] 5. Setting the fibers on the rotary cassette and letting them dry overnight at 55% relative humidity.

[0116] 6. Taking dimensional readings (post treatment) at 55% relative humidity.

[0117] 7. Comparing the dimensional readings (post / initial) and taking out outliers.

[0118] Testing protocol for the rinse-out application (Example 3):

[0119] 1 . Washing a virgin or bleached tress with 5% sodium lauryl sulfate and letting it equilibrate overnight at 55% relative humidity.

[0120] 2. Crimping hairs using AAS-1600 auto assembly system and letting them equilibrate overnight at 55% relative humidity.

[0121] 3. Taking initial cross-sectional area readings of each hair fiber (laser scan micrometer takes 5 readings for each hair fiber) at 55% relative humidity.

[0122] 4. Taping the fibers together, damping them, applying excess conditioner, massaging for 30 sec (15 sec each side), and rinsing for 30 sec (15 sec each side) at a flowrate of around 10mL per sec.

[0123] 5. Setting the fibers on the rotary cassette and letting them dry overnight at 55% relative humidity.

[0124] 6. Taking dimensional readings (post treatment) at 55% relative humidity.

[0125] 7. Comparing the dimensional readings (post / initial) and taking out outliers.

[0126] Analysis

[0127] After going through each cross-sectional area data point, the before (average cross-sectional area before treatment) vs after (average cross-sectional after treatment) is compared to one another. The % increase gets calculated using ((after- before ) / before)) *100.

[0128] Statistical significance of the dimensional data was determined using a two- tailed t-test (p<0.05). The following Tables 4 - 6 show the results of several experiments done with examples 1 - 3 and 5 - 8, as described above.

[0129] Table 4: Mean strand cross-sectional area data analysis and t-Test result after 24 hours. P<0.05 is statistically significant for all formulas tested.

[0130] Table 5: Mean strand cross-sectional area data analysis and t-Test result after 4 hours. P<0.05 is statistically significant for all formulas tested. Table 6: Mean strand cross-sectional area data analysis and t-Test result after

[0131] 24 hours. P<0.05 is statistically significant for all formulas tested.

[0132] As seen from Tables 4 and 5, Examples 1-3 all resulted in a substantial % increase in the average cross-sectional area of hair fibers. Both leave-in applications (Examples 1 and 2) and rinse-out application (Example 3) show a noticeable % increase in the average cross-sectional area. Additionally, Example 1 , tested on both virgin level 4 hair and double bleached level 4 hair, shows that the hair thickening composition works on both virgin and bleached hair.

[0133] As seen from Table 6, Examples 5-8 also resulted in a % increase in the average cross-sectional area of hair fibers.

[0134] Furthermore, a comparison of Examples 1 and 2 with Example 8 provided an unexpected finding. Examples 1 and 2, which contained a lower total amount of ellagitannin-containing botanicals and lower total amount phospholipid compared to Example 8, resulted in higher % increases in the average cross-sectional area of hair fibers.

[0135] The compositions described herein have therefore been demonstrated to be useful for increasing the diameter and cross-sectional area of hair fibers. The net result is a noticeable improvement in the volume and manageability of fine hair. The benefits are achieved without the sticky residue, and without the weighed down feeling of hair spray.

[0136] Some embodiments disclosed herein increased the cross-sectional area by more than 10%, which we have observed to have noticeable and beneficial effects on the volume of a head of hair. Compositions and methods herein did not appear to cause any damage to the cuticle or cortex of the hair. The compositions and methods according to the invention are expected to provide benefits to fine, normal, and even coarse hair.

[0137] Additionally, it has been found that a composition of at least three ellagitannin- containing botanicals with a phospholipid provides better hair thickening results compared to a composition of one ellagitannin-containing botanical with a phospholipid, where a total amount of ellagitannin-containing botanicals in the at least three ellagitannin-containing botanical composition can be lower or equal to the latter composition.

[0138] While particular hair thickening compositions of the invention have been described above, those skilled in the art would understand that various modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

Claims

CLAIMS1 . A hair thickening composition, comprising: at least one phospholipid, and at least three ellagitannin-containing botanicals.

2. The hair thickening composition according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one phospholipid is at least one compound of the following formula:whereinR1 and R2 are each, individually, a hydrogenated C10 - C22 alkyl group, and X is a choline group.

3. The hair thickening composition according to claim 2, wherein R1 and R2 are each, individually, a hydrogenated C15 - C19 alkyl group.

4. The hair thickening composition according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one phospholipid is selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated lecithin and soybean seed extract.

5. The hair thickening composition according to claim 1 , comprising the at least one phospholipid in an amount of 0.05 to 10 % by weight, based on a total weight of the hair thickening composition.

6. The hair thickening composition according to claim 1 , comprising the at least one phospholipid in an amount of 0.40 to 5 % by weight, based on a total weight of the hair thickening composition.

7. The hair thickening composition according to claim 1 , wherein each of the at least three ellagitannin-containing botanicals is a botanical extract from a genus selected from the group consisting of Phyllanthus, Epilobium, Terminalia, Punica, Camellia, Quercus, Rubus, Fragaria, and Potentilla.

8. The hair thickening composition according to claim 1 , wherein the at least three ellagitannin-containing botanicals comprise a botanical extract from the Phyllanthus genus, a botanical extract from the Epilobium genus, and a botanical extract from the Camellia genus.

9. The hair thickening composition according to claim 1 , wherein the at least three ellagitannin-containing botanicals comprise an Emblica Officinalis fruit extract.

10. The hair thickening composition according to claim 1 , wherein the at least three ellagitannin-containing botanicals comprise an Emblica Officinalis fruit extract, a Camellia Sinensis leaf extract, and an Epilobium Fleischeri extract.11 . The hair thickening composition according to claim 10, comprising: the Emblica Officinalis fruit extract in an amount of 0.001 to 5 % by weight, the Camellia Sinensis leaf extract in an amount of 0.001 to 5 % by weight, and the Epilobium Fleischeri extract in an amount of 0.001 to 5 % by weight; based in each case on a total weight of the hair thickening composition.

12. The hair thickening composition according to claim 10, comprising: the Emblica Officinalis fruit extract in an amount of 0.04 to 1 % by weight, the Camellia Sinensis leaf extract in an amount of 0.04 to 1 % by weight, and the Epilobium Fleischeri extract in an amount of 0.04 to 1 % by weight; based in each case on a total weight of the hair thickening composition.

13. The hair thickening composition according to claim 10, wherein a weight ratio of the Emblica officinalis fruit extract to the Camellia sinensis leaf extract to the Epilobium fleischeri extract is 0.05 : 0.05 : 0.04 - 0.07.

14. The hair thickening composition according to claim 1 , wherein a weight ratio of the at least one phospholipid to the at least three ellagitannin-containing botanicals is in a range of 0.05 : 0.001 to 5.00 : 1.00.

15. The hair thickening composition according to claim 1 , wherein a weight ratio of the at least one phospholipid to the at least three ellagitannin-containing botanicals is in a range of 0.42 : 0.14 to 3.11 : 0.17.

Images