Compositions comprising an extract of fucus SPP., methods and uses thereof

A synergistic composition of Fucus spp. extracts and seed oils addresses the industry's need for effective, natural cosmetics with improved antioxidant and sun protection, reducing environmental impact while providing anti-inflammatory and anti-blemishing benefits.

WO2025215622A1PCT designated stage Publication Date: 2025-10-16ISS ÍNCLITA SEAWEED SOLUTIONS LDA
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Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/IB2025/053907
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2024-05-24
Filing Date
2025-04-14
Publication Date
2025-10-16

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

The cosmetics industry faces a need for highly efficacious, safe, and natural compositions with improved antioxidant, sun protection, and anti-wrinkle properties, as existing natural ingredients like Camellia sinensis extracts have high environmental impacts and carbon footprints.

Method used

A composition comprising a mixture of an alcoholic extract of Fucus spp. and a vegetable seed oil, specifically Fucus serratus, Fucus spiralis, or Fucus vesiculosus with oils like linseed, almond, or castor oil, demonstrating synergistic enhancement in antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibition assays, providing improved UVA protection and anti-inflammatory properties.

Benefits of technology

The Fucus spp. and seed oil combination achieves enhanced antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-blemishing effects, with lower environmental impact compared to Camellia sinensis, suitable for sensitive skin and offering UVA protection and anti-wrinkle benefits.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present disclosure relates to a composition comprising 10-40 % (w / w) of an alcoholic extract of Fucus spp. and 60-90 % (w / w) of a seed oil; wherein the species of Fucus spp. is selected from the list consisting of: Fucus serratus, Fucus spiralis, Fucus distichus, Fucus vesiculosus, or mixtures thereof; and wherein the seed oil is selected from the list consisting of: almond oil, argan oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, or mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the present disclosure relates to topical compositions and ingestible products comprising said composition. The present disclosure also relates to the cosmetic use of said composition and to a method to obtain the extract of Fucus spp.
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Description

COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING AN EXTRACT OF FUCUS SPP., METHODS AND USES THEREOFTECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present disclosure relates to a composition comprising a mixture of an alcoholic extract of Fucus spp. and a vegetable oil, in particular a seed oil, exhibiting improved antioxidant, sun protection, and anti-wrinkle properties. The present disclosure also relates to topical compositions and uses thereof.BACKGROUND

[0002] Environmental awareness has changed the demands on the cosmetics industry, both directly in the market (as in the case of ecolabels and environmental certifications of products) and politically, as in the case of the EU Green Deal, which aims to harness the significant market potential of low-emission technologies, sustainable goods, and services to achieve climate neutrality by 2050.

[0003] The cosmetics industry is evolving from formulations based on chemical and mineral principles to natural ingredients with bioactive properties. As in many other sectors, the terms "natural" and "organic" are in trend.

[0004] The global market value for natural cosmetics and personal care is expected to increase from almost 35 billion dollars in 2021 to roughly 59 billion dollars expected for the year 2031 (Petruzzi D., 2022). These data are proof of the growing importance of the natural and organic beauty market. In fact, consumers' awareness of the type of products purchased is growing over time, particularly when it comes to personal consumer goods. In the specific case of cosmetics, a bigger share of consumers tends to purchase natural and / or organic cosmetics. Cosmetics are considered natural concerning two important dimensions: ingredients and processing (Petruzzi D., 2022).

[0005] There are some market standards used in cosmetics to produce products with antioxidant features. Among them are ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and Camellia sinensis L. (green tea) extract.

[0006] Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is often used in skin care products alone or in combination with other active substances. Although this component can be found in natural extracts (e.g., orange) in the cosmetics industry, it is mainly found in its pure form, chemically synthesised, or produced by microbial fermentation.

[0007] Camellia sinensis L. (green tea) extract is the most commonly used solution to meet the cosmetic market's need for natural ingredients. The Camellia sinensis plant constitutes a centuries-old tradition for medicinal uses, and the use of its extracts plays an important role in the cosmetics market, mainly due to its antioxidant properties and phenolic compound content. Nonetheless, the carbon footprint associated is high. Experts estimate that producing 1 tonne Camellia sinensis (green tea) emits 3.45 t CO2, and 1 kg of Camellia sinensis consumes 0.96 kWh of electricity and 1.68 kg of coal, with a carbon emission of 4.5 kg (He ate al. 2023). Also, Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) analyses proved that it has a highly associated impact on sustainability. Cultivation of the Camellia sinensis plant is the subsystem with the highest impact in all impact categories: 80-100%, especially in stratospheric ozone depletion (SOD), freshwater eutrophication (FE), marine eutrophication (ME), freshwater ecotoxicity (FET), land use (LU), mineral resource scarcity (MRS), and water consumption (WC) (Pagels et al, 2022). The environmental burdens of the Camellia sinensis production stage result from background activities associated with cultivation and harvesting, i.e., fertilisation, machinery, organic waste, and freshwater consumption (Mila et al. 2021).

[0008] Despite the efforts made in the prior art to obtain compositions comprising natural ingredients, there remains a need for improved highly efficacious, safe and natural compositions with improved bioactive properties.

[0009] These facts are disclosed in order to illustrate the technical problem addressed by the present disclosure.GENERAL DESCRIPTION

[0010] The present disclosure relates to a composition comprising a mixture of an alcoholic extract of Fucus spp. and a vegetable oil, in particular a seed oil, exhibiting improved antioxidant, sun protection, and anti-wrinkle properties.

[0011] An aspect of the present disclosure relates to a composition comprising: 10-40 % (w / w) of an alcoholic extract of Fucus spp. and 60-90 % (w / w) of a seed oil; wherein the species of Fucus spp. is selected from the list consisting of: Fucus serratus, Fucus spiralis, Fucus distichus, Fucus vesiculosus, or mixtures thereof; and wherein the seed oil is selected from the list consisting of: almond oil, argan oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, or mixtures thereof.

[0012] It was surprisingly found that the composition of the present disclosure, combining Fucus algae extracts— specifically F. vesiculosus, F. serratus, and F. spiralis— with seed oils such as linseed, almond, and castor oil results in a synergistic enhancement of biological activity, particularly in antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibition assays, wherein the combination consistently produced significantly lower IC50values across ABTS, NO, O2scavenging, and tyrosinase inhibition assays. These results confirm that the Fucus extracts and seed oils interact synergistically, showing its ability to develop highly effective multifunctional cosmetic or nutraceutical formulations.

[0013] The composition of the present disclosure showed improved antioxidant properties, anti-inflammatory properties, as well an UVA protection factor (UVA-PF). It also showed to be safe and non-irritant for skin, in particular for sensitive skin.

[0014] The composition of the present also showed improved results as anti-blemishing and in reducing skin brown spots.

[0001] In an embodiment for better results, the alcoholic extract is of a species of Fucus spp. selected from the list consisting of: Fucus serratus, Fucus spiralis, Fucus vesiculosus; preferably Fucus vesiculosus.

[0002] In an embodiment for better results, the seed oil is selected from the list consisting of: almond oil, castor oil, or linseed oil, or mixtures thereof. In an embodiment for better results, the seed oil is castor oil, linseed oil, or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the seed oil is linseed oil.

[0015] In an embodiment for better results, the species of Fucus spp. is Fucus vesiculosus and the seed oil is linseed oil; or the species of Fucus spp. is Fucus vesiculosus and the seed oil is almond oil; or the species of Fucus spp. is Fucus vesiculosus and the seed oil is castor oil; or the species of Fucus spp. is Fucus spiralis and the seed oil is linseed oil; or the species of Fucus spp. is Fucus spiralis and the seed oil is almond oil; or the species ofFucus spp. is Fucus spiralis and the seed oil is castor oil; or the species of Fucus spp. is Fucus serratus and the seed oil is linseed oil; or the species of Fucus spp. is Fucus serratus and the seed oil is almond oil; or the species of Fucus spp. is Fucus serratus and the seed oil is castor oil.

[0003] In an embodiment for better results, the extract of Fucus spp. is an extract obtained from the thalus of Fucus spp. seaweed; preferably from the stipe of Fucus spp. seaweed (stipe is a stem-like portion of the thallus).

[0004] In an embodiment for better results, the extract of Fucus spp. is an ethanolic extract.

[0005] In an embodiment, the composition comprises 20-30 % (w / w) of extract of Fucus spp; more preferably 20-25 % (w / w).

[0006] In an embodiment, the composition comprises 70-85 % (w / w) of a seed oil; preferably 70-80 % (w / w); more preferably 75-80 % (w / w).

[0016] In an embodiment, the ratio between extract of Fucus spp: seed oil ranges from 1:1.5 to 1:9; preferably 1:3 to 1:5; more preferably 1:3 to 1:4.

[0017] In an embodiment for better results, the composition comprises 20-25 % (w / w) of an extract of Fucus vesiculosus and 75-80 % (w / w) of linseed oil.

[0018] In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is a cosmetic ingredient.

[0019] In an embodiment, the UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of the composition is at least 3; preferably at least 4 (measured according to ISO 24443:2021 Cosmetics - Determination of sunscreen UVA photoprotection in vitro).

[0020] In an embodiment, the UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of the composition ranges from 3-6 (measured according to ISO 24443:2021 Cosmetics - Determination of sunscreen UVA photoprotection in vitro).

[0021] In an embodiment, the sun protection factor (SPF) of the composition is at least 0.5; preferably at least 1.

[0022] In an embodiment, the sun protection factor (SPF) of the composition ranges from 0.5-2.

[0023] In an embodiment, the extract of Fucus spp. of the composition comprises70-80 % (w / w) of lipidic compounds; preferably 73-77 % (w / w);0.1-1 % (w / w) of carotenoids; preferably 0.2-0.5 % (w / w);1-10 % (w / w) of phenolic compounds preferably 1-5 % (w / w).

[0024] In an embodiment, the lipidic compounds comprises a mixture of at least two lipid compounds selected from a- linolenic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid; preferably the lipid compounds comprise a mixture of a- linolenic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid.

[0025] In an embodiment, the lipid compounds comprise:30-50 % (w / w) of a- linolenic acid;5-20 % (w / w) of linoleic acid;5-20 % (w / w) of oleic acid.

[0026] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to a method for obtaining the composition herein described, comprising the steps of: obtaining dried seaweeds of Fucus spp.; preferably dried thalus of seaweeds of Fucus spp.; more preferably dried stipe of seaweeds of Fucus spp; milling the dried seaweeds of Fucus spp. (to obtain particles having a particle size below 2 mm); mixing the milled dried seaweeds with an alcoholic extraction solvent (extraction solvent) to form a mixture comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction; stirring the mixture; separating the liquid fraction and the solid fraction of the mixture; concentrating the liquid fraction to obtain an extract; drying the extract to obtain a dry extract; mixing the dry extract with a seed oil to obtain a composition comprising a mixture of an organic extract of Fucus spp and a seed oil.

[0027] In an embodiment for better results, the alcoholic solvent is an ethanolic solvent; preferably ethanol.

[0028] In an embodiment for better results, the ratio milled dried seaweeds: extraction solvent ranges from 1:20 (m / V) to 1:80 (m / V); preferably 1:25 (m / V).

[0029] In an embodiment for better results, the extraction (mixing the milled dried seaweed with an alcoholic solvent to form a mixture comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction) time ranges from 0.5 -2 h, preferably 0.5-1 h.

[0030] In an embodiment for better results, the extraction temperature ranges from 15°C -30°C, preferably 25°C.

[0031] In an embodiment for better results, the extract of Fucus spp. is an extract obtained from the thalus of Fucus spp. seaweed; preferably from the stipe of Fucus spp. seaweed (stipe is a stem-like portion of the thallus).

[0032] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to a topical composition comprising the composition herein described. Preferably, the topical composition comprises 0.5-10% (w / w) of the composition herein described. More preferably, the topical composition comprises 1 -7% (w / w) of the composition herein described; even more preferably 1-3% (w / w).

[0033] In an embodiment, the topical composition is selected from a list consisting of: solution, serum, cream, lotion, gel, hydrogel, oil, soap, shampoo, stick- or bar-shaped solid, spray, ointment, paste, mousse or body wash; preferably a cream.

[0034] In an embodiment, the topical composition further comprises a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable ingredient selected from the list consisting of: preservatives, emollients, emulsifying agents, surfactants, moisturizers, thickening agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, stabilizing agents, anti-oxidants, anti-inflammatory / skin calming agents, texturizing agents, gloss agents, mattifying agents, solubilizers, pigments, dyes, fragrances, sunscreens, or mixtures thereof.

[0035] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to the composition or the topical composition herein described for use in medicine or veterinary; preferably for use in the prevention or treatment of cancer; preferably skin cancer.

[0036] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to the composition or the topical composition herein described for use as an ultraviolet radiation blocking agent.

[0037] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to the composition or the topical composition herein described for use as an anti-inflammatory agent.

[0038] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to the use of the composition or the topical composition herein described for the manufacture of a medicament for the prevention or treatment of cancer; preferably skin cancer.

[0039] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to a method for treating or preventing skin cancer in a subject, the method comprising administering the composition or the topical composition herein described to the subject.

[0040] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to the use (cosmetic use) of the composition or the topical composition herein described as an antioxidant agent.

[0041] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to the use (cosmetic use) of the composition or the topical composition herein described as an anti- pigmentation spot agent.

[0042] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to the use (cosmetic use) of the composition or the topical composition herein described as an anti-wrinkle agent.

[0043] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to the use (cosmetic use) of the composition or the topical composition herein described as a hydration agent and / or anti-blemishing agent.

[0044] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to the use of the composition or topical composition as described herein for the treatment and / or prevention of skin irritation, preferably skin irritation caused by external agents such as allergens, chemical or physical irritants, mechanical friction, or environmental stressors. In particular, the composition may be used therapeutically as a skin-calming agent for the reduction of skin irritation, including conditions such as dermatitis.

[0045] Cosmetic compositions of the present invention may include cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable ingredients known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, at least one ingredient selected from the group consisting of preservatives, emollients, emulsifying agents, surfactants, moisturizers, thickening agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, stabilizing agents, anti-oxidants, skin calming agents, texturizing agents, gloss agents, mattifying agents, solubilizers, pigments, dyes, fragrances and sunscreens.

[0046] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to the use of the composition herein described as a food stabilizer or as a food preservative.

[0047] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to an ingestible product comprising the composition herein described. In an embodiment, the ingestible product is a food product, a nutraceutical product, a veterinary product, a pharmaceutical product or a dietary supplement.BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0048] The following figures provide preferred embodiments for illustrating the disclosure and should not be seen as limiting the scope of invention.

[0049] Figure 1: Flowchart of the method for obtaining the composition of the present disclosure comprising a mixture of an extract of Fucus spp. and a seed oil. Fucus spp. seaweeds (1) are extracted with an organic solvent in an extraction ratio ranging from 1:20 (m / V) to 1:80 (m / V), preferably 1:25 (m / V) (2). The liquid and solid phases of the mixture are then separated (3), and the supernatant is submitted to a full evaporation step to eliminate the organic solvent (4). The originated powder is then incorporated in a seed oil, in a percentage between 10-40 % (w / w) (6), originating the composition of the present disclosure.DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0050] The present disclosure relates to a composition comprising 10-40 % (w / w) of an alcoholic extract of Fucus spp. and 60-90 % (w / w) of a seed oil; wherein the species of Fucus spp. is selected from the list consisting of: Fucus serratus, Fucus spiralis, Fucus distichus, Fucus vesiculosus, or mixtures thereof; and wherein the seed oil is selected from the list consisting of: almond oil, argan oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, or mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the present disclosure relates to topical compositions and ingestible products comprising said composition. The present disclosure also relates to the use of said composition in cosmetic and medicine, and to a method to obtain the extract of Fucus spp.

[0051] Fucus spp. is an abundant and widely distributed genus of brown, perennial and edible seaweeds. This genus is present in the cold-temperate waters from the littoral and sublittoral regions along the rocky shorelines of the northern hemisphere.

[0052] Fucus vesiculosus is the most well-known species from Fucus genus, often dominating shallow macroalgae communities. It grows on the mid-tide zone of high salinity waters forming large belts that have an important role in the structure of the habitats that harbor species-rich epiphytic and epibenthic communities. Other important species from this genus include F. spiralis and F. serratus.

[0053] Linseed oil is an edible and industrial seed oil made from the seeds of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum).

[0054] Sweet Almond Oil is also known as almond oil or Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil. It is better identified by CAS no. 8007-69-0 / 90320-37-9 or EC no. (European Community number) 291-063-5.

[0055] Linseed oil is identified by CAS# no. 8001-26-1 or EC no. 232-278-6.

[0056] Castor oil is identified by CAS# no. 8001-79-4 or EC no. 232-293-8.

[0057] Argan oil is also known as Argania spinosa oil and identified by CAS# no. 223747- 87-3.

[0058] Sunflower oil is identified by CAS# no. 8001-21-6 or EC no. 232-273-9.

[0059] The composition of the present disclosure is a dark green composition with a characteristic odour obtained from an organic extraction from Fucus spp, preferably Fucus vesiculosus, and seed oil, preferably linseed oil.

[0060] The composition of the present disclosure may be incorporated in a cosmetic composition. In an embodiment for better results, the incorporation of 0.5-10% (w / w) of the composition of the present disclosure in a cosmetic composition provides to the final cosmetic product a very characteristic range of Kakhi colouration.

[0061] The composition of the present disclosure comprises about 75 % lipids (from which 30-50 % a- linolenic acid; 5-20 % linoleic acid 5-20 % oleic acid), 0.2 - 0.5 % carotenoids, 1 - 5 % Phenolic compounds, namely phlorotannins.

[0062] The composition of the present disclosure comprises a high content of phenolic compounds, namely phlorotannin's, carotenoids (fucoxanthin, zeaxanthin, -carotene), and omega-3 lipids (a —linolenic acid). A Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) methodology proved the environmental impact assessment of the composition of the present disclosure and its comparative profile with the most used antioxidants in cosmetics: ascorbic acid (Vit C) and green tea extracts. Considering an equivalent formulation in antioxidant content, the results showed that the composition of the present disclosure has:- an environmental load 97% lower than green tea extracts;- a similar to a higher order of magnitude bioactivity than common sources (natural or synthetic) like ascorbic acid and green tea;- an innovative combination of seaweed extract and a plant-based oil. This combination induces a synergetic effect in the bioactivity;- a capability to be used either in aqueous or lipidic final product formulations;- a multifunctional behaviour: the composition of the present disclosure has antioxidant, SPF and UVA protection, anti-blemishing and anti-inflammatory potential, as well as the ability to promote hydration and contribute to maintaining skin elasticity and integrity, among other properties.

[0063] The clean label potential is a natural composition / ingredient with several bioactivities / claims associated.

[0064] The composition of the present disclosure provides a sustainable solution with cosmetic, nutricosmetic and nutraceutical applications due to its antioxidant, SPF and UVA protection factor, anti-blemishing and anti-inflammatory bioactivities, among others. For cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical application, it has been tested and approved as a non-irritant for all skin types. It can also be used in daily skin care products, e.g., antiageing, skin lightening / brightening and skin calming products.

[0065] The composition of the present disclosure provides a practical solution for the sustainable scenario that the natural cosmetics sector aims to achieve. Its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-ageing, and whitening capabilities, together with cosmetic characteristics such as moisturising and stabilising agents, made the present composition an improved ingredient to be incorporated in cosmetic compositions.

[0066] In terms of sustainability, the use of harvested seaweed has several advantages over that of terrestrial plants: a) it does not need terrestrial cultivable fertilisers or freshwater inputs; b) it requires minimal human intervention; c) it has a much higher growth rate and biomass yield.

[0067] Moreover, seaweed extracts have a similar or even lower environmental load, considering both functional units, compared to ascorbic acid. Furthermore, LCA analysis, when assessing the impact of the minimum antioxidant concentration, shows that seaweeds still have an advantage in key categories such as marine eutrophication (ME) and water consumption (WC) (Pagels et al. 2022). Furthermore, the use and disposal of seaweed waste are fundamental to preserving the marine environment and the conscious use of organic matter, contributing to the concept of a circular economy rather than the linear model of manufacture, use, and waste. Also, a biorefinery concept can be proposed to use these wastes in new products, for cosmetics (as a second extract), fertiliser (as a bio stimulant and biopesticide), or biogas production till zero waste production.

[0068] The composition of the present disclosure is a natural, organic, and environmentally sustainable seaweed-based composition that can replace the not-so- wanted synthetic ones, such as ascorbic acid, and other natural sources that are not so environmentally sustainable, such as Camellia sinensis extract. The composition of the present disclosure is 97% more environmentally sustainable.

[0069] In a preferred embodiment for better results, the composition of the preset disclosure comprises a mixture of brown Fucus vesiculosus extract and linseed oil.

[0070] The composition of the present disclosure provides the following improved biological results:- in vitro assay (ABTS) result that supports the evidence that it has 30% higher antioxidant capacity than an equivalent Camellia sinensis extract proven by an in vitro;- other in vitro assay results that show other cosmetical features: such as antiblemishing (62% higher than Kojic acid), a UVA protection factor (4.5), a SPF (1) and an anti-inflammatory potential;- in vivo Patch assay results support the non-irritant and safe use of the composition of the present disclosure, even for sensitive skin;- in vivo determination on reduction of skin brown spots indicates that 8 / 10 volunteers noticed a reduction in their brown spots after 12 weeks of use of a gel containing 3% (w / w) of the composition of the present disclosure.EXAMPLESExample 1 - Obtention of a composition comprising a mixture of an extract of Fucus spp and a seed oil

[0071] According to the scheme in Figure 1, in example 1, 25 g of dried stipe of seaweeds of Fucus vesiculosus (1) were ground with a mill to a particle size of less than 2 mm and then extracted with lOOOmL of an organic solvent (ethanol, purity of 98%) at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure, under stirring (200 revolutions per minute (rpm), in an extraction ratio (seaweeds of Fucus vesiculosus: extraction solvent:) of 1:25 (g / mL) (2), during 0.5 hours. After the extraction period, the liquid and solid phases of the mixture were then separated (3) through centrifugation (5000 g for 15 minutes), and the supernatant obtained submitted to a full evaporation step to eliminate the organic solvent (4). The powder extract obtained (extract 1) comprise a mixture of components as depicted in Table 1. The originated powder was then incorporated in linseed oil, in a percentage of 20% (w / w) (of extract in linseed oil) (6), originating the composition of example 1 (composition 1).

[0072] Table 1. Composition of the extract of Fucus vesiculosus obtained in example 1 (extract 1).

[0073] The following results were obtained considering the extract and the composition obtained according to example 1.

[0074] Table 2. In vitro Assay - Antioxidantn.d.- ICsofor linseed oil not determined due to its low antioxidant activity.

[0075] Table 3 In vitro Assay - SPF and UVA protection factor*FP: final product, poly-methyl methacrylate HD6 - Helioplate with 3 % \N / \N of composition 1 of the present disclosure.

[0076] Table 4. In vitro Assay - anti-blemishingn.d.- 1 Cso for linseed oil not determined due to its negligible tyrosinase inhibition activity

[0077] Table 5. In vivo Patch Assay - SafetyIn vivo assay -Determination on reduction of skin brown spots

[0078] In a study conducted over a 12-week period with 10 volunteers, 80% of the participating volunteers (8 in 10) reported a visible reduction in the appearance of brown spots following the topical application of the composition 1 of the present disclosure. This result supports the bioactivity of the composition of the present disclosure in successfully reducing skin brown spots upon topical use.

[0079] Table 6. In vitro Assay - Anti-inflammatoryEXAMPLE 2

[0080] According to the scheme in Figure 1, in example 2, 25 g of dried stipe of seaweeds of Fucus spp. (1) (Fucus vesiculosus, Fucus spiralis or Fucus serratus) were ground with a mill to a particle size of less than 2 mm and then extracted with 1000 ml of an organic solvent (ethanol, purity of 98%) at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure, under stirring (200 revolutions per minute (rpm), in an extraction ratio (seaweeds of Fucus spp.: extraction solvent) of 1:25 (g / mL) (2) during 0.5 hours. After the extraction period, the liquid and solid phases of the mixture were then separated (3) through centrifugation (5000 g for 15 minutes), and the supernatant obtained fully evaporated step to eliminate the organic solvent (4). The originated powder was then incorporated in a seed oil (linseed oil, almond oil or castor oil) in a percentage of 20% (w / w) (of extract in seed oil ) (6), originating compositions 2-9 of the present disclosure

[0081] The following results were obtained with compositions 2-10 of the present disclosure.

[0082] Table 7. Results obtained with compositions 2-10 of the present disclosure.ABTS: (Diammonium 2,2'-azinobis[3-ethyl-2,3-dihydrobenzothiazole-6-sulphonate])NO assay: Nitric Oxide Radical («NO) Scavenging CapacityO2: Superoxide Radical (O2«-) Scavenging Capacity*in hibition percentage, IC50 was not possible to be calculated.

[0083] The data presented in Table 7 clearly demonstrates a synergistic effect resulting from the combination of Fucus algae extracts with different seed oils (linseed oil, almond oil, and castor oil).

[0084] Individually, the Fucus extracts showed antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory activity, as evidenced by relatively low IC50values across the ABTS, NO, O2, and tyrosinase inhibition assays. In contrast, the seed oils alone exhibited significantly higher IC50values (very low activity), indicating weak standalone efficacy. However, when combining the Fucus extracts with the seed oils at 1 mg / mL (1 mg of extract in 1 mL of seed oil), the mixtures consistently yielded significant lower IC50values than either component alone in most assays. For instance, the ABTS IC50of F. vesiculosus extract dropped from 0.359 mg / mL to 0.061-0.081 mg / mL when combined with the different seed oils, indicating a strong enhancement. Similarly, F. serratus extract combined with the different seed oils reduced ABTC IC50from 0.340 (F. serratus extract alone) to 0.016-0.050 mg / mL.

[0085] In relation to the tyrosinase inhibition assay, while the Fucus extracts alone— particularly F. serratus (IC50= 0.020 mg / mL) and F. vesiculosus (IC50= 0.047 mg / mL) — demonstrated tyrosinase inhibitory activity, the seed oils individually showed poor performance, with high IC50values. However, when combining the Fucus extracts with the seed oils at 1 mg / mL, enhanced inhibition is obtained, surpassing the efficacy of either component alone. For instance, F. serratus + castor oil achieved an IC50of 0.015 ± 0.001 mg / mL— significantly lower than either the extract or oil alone. Similarly, the combination of F. vesiculosus with almond oil improved the IC50from 0.047 to 0.032 mg / mL. These reductions in IC50values clearly indicate a synergistic interaction, where the presence of seed oils enhances the bioactivity of Fucus extracts beyond an additive effect.

[0086] These results confirm that the Fucus extracts and seed oils interact synergistically, showing its ability to develop highly effective multifunctional cosmetic or nutraceutical formulations.MATERIALS AND METHODSIn vitro Assay - ABTS

[0087] The antioxidant capacity is evaluated via the ABTS*+assay and performed in triplicate in a 96-well plate. The ingredient / extract is diluted in a range of concentrations from 1 to 0.05 mg.mL1in triplicate to calculate the ICso- For that, 63 pL of each concentration is added to 180 pL of ABTS reagent and gently shaken. All assays were performed in triplicate. The reaction occurs in the dark for 6 min, and the plate is read at 734 nm (Pagels et al., 2022).In vitro Assay - SPF and UVA protection factor

[0088] The in vitro sun protector factor (SPF) was determined according to Rohr et al. (2010). Briefly, the absorbance of 2 mL of each extract / ingredient (in a concentration range from 200 to 1000 pg mL-1) was measured in a spectrophotometer (290 to 320 nm, 5 in 5 nm). The SPF was calculated using the formula proposed by Mansur et. Al (1986):where EE(X) is the erythemal effect spectrum, I (X) is the solar intensity spectrum, Abs(X) is the absorbance of extract, and CF is the correction factor (28) determined using a commercial sunscreen with a known SFP value of 30.

[0089] The UVA Protection Factor (FPUVA) was determined using the protocol based on the ISO 24443:2021 Cosmetics - Determination of sunscreen UVA photoprotection in vitro standard.In vitro Assay - anti-blemishing

[0090] Tyrosinase inhibition assay was determined, as reported by Adhikari et al. (2008). First, ten pL of extract / ingredient dilutions (31.2 to 1000.0 pg mL-1) plus 20 pL of tyrosinase (50 U mL-1) and 70 pL of phosphate buffer (50 mM, pH 6.5) were added to a 96-well plate and kept at 25 °C during 5 min. The reaction was started by adding 70 pL of the substrate (L-DOPA, 2.5 mM). Kojic acid was used as the positive control. The absorbance was measured at 0 and 15 min at 475 nm. The enzymatic inhibition was calculated based on the values of 100% activity (using DMSO 10% instead of the extract) and 0% activity (using buffer instead of the enzyme). The assay was performed in triplicate.In vivo Patch Assay - Safety

[0091] Patch test assessment of skin tolerance of a cosmetic product and involves a single application during 48 hours occlusive patch test. Negative controls are used to facilitate evaluation. Treatment sites are assessed before the first application of the test material (baseline), after treatment at 30 minutes, upon patch removal and at 24 and 48 hours after patch removal. The patch is applied on the skin for 48 hours. Skin reactions are scored throughout the test by the same experienced assessor, a dermatologist, who made the baseline assessment and under the same lighting source, following a predefined scoring scale. The quantification of the skin irritation is given through a numeric scale (erythema, oedema, dryness / desquamation, vesicles). The average irritant score of the product tested is calculated from the average of the reactions obtained for each volunteer, allowing to rank the product from "non-irritant" to "very irritant".In vivo assay -Determination on reduction of skin brown spotsThe study was conducted by suitably trained and experienced personnel in accordance with the Efficacy Evaluation Guidelines published by COLIPA - May 2008. Hence, a gel formulation including 3% w / w of the composition was applied on the face of 10 healthy female volunteers. Before product application skin's brown spots were measured on target areas on the face (reference measurements). Prior to any measurement, the volunteers stayed seated in a room at a controlled environment for twenty minutes (20 min acclimatization at 22 °C). Measurements were taken prior to the application, 6 and 12 weeks after products' application. The volunteers were also instructed to use daily a complementary sunscreen after product's application. The volunteers were asked to complete a target questionnaire after 12 weeks of using the product. The study was conducted under the supervision of a dermatologist.In vitro Assay - Anti-inflammatory potentialSuperoxide Radical (Ch*-) Scavenging Capacity

[0092] Superoxide Radical (O2*-) Scavenging Capacity was determined for the Fucus spp. extracts as reported by Ferreres et al. 2012. For that the extract was re-suspended in phosphate buffer (100 mM, pH 7.4) with 20% dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO). A dilution series was generated, in triplicate, ranging from 9.8 pg-mL-1to 10 mg-mL-1, and tested in a 96- well plate. The superoxide radical induced by reduction of NBT was monitored spectrophotometrically, in kinetic function, at 562 nm.Nitric Oxide Radical (*NO) Scavenging Capacity

[0093] Nitric Oxide Radical (*NO) Scavenging Capacity was determined for the Fucus spp. extracts as reported by Ferreres et al. 2012. For that the extract was re-suspended in phosphate buffer with 20% DMSO, and diluted in a range series from 4.9 pg-mL-1to 2.5 mg-mL-1. Samples (in triplicate) were then incubated with sodium nitroprusside, for 60 min at room temperature, in the light. Griess reagent was added afterwards, and the chromophore reaction was undertaken in the dark for 10 min, with absorbance being read at 562 nm.

[0094] The term "comprising" whenever used in this document is intended to indicate the presence of stated features, integers, steps, components, but not to preclude thepresence or addition of one or more other features, integers, steps, components or groups thereof.

[0095] The disclosure should not be seen in any way restricted to the embodiments described and a person with ordinary skill in the art will foresee many possibilities to modifications thereof. The above-described embodiments are combinable.

[0096] The following dependent claims further set out particular embodiments of the disclosure.ReferencesAdhikari A., Devkota H.P., Takano A., Masuda K., Nakane T., Basnet P., Skalko-Basnet N. Screening of Nepalese Crude Drugs Traditionally Used to Treat Hyperpigmentation: In Vitro Tyrosinase Inhibition. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2008;30:353-360. doi: 10.1111 / j.l468- 2494.2008.00463.x.Ferreres, F.; Gil-Izquierdo, A.; Vinholes, J.; Silva, S.T.; Valentao, P.; Andrade, P.B. Bauhinia forficata link authenticity using flavonoids profile: Relation with their biological properties. Food Chem. 2012, 134, 894-904.Gaspar, R.; Pereira, L.; Sousa-Pinto, I. The Seaweed Resources of Portugal. Bot. Mar. 2019, 62, 499-525He Ming-Bao, Zong Shi-Xiang, Li Ying-Chun, Ma Ming-Ming, Ma Xin, Li Kuo, Han Xue, Zhao Ming-Yue, Guo Li-Ping, Xu Yin-Long. Carbon footprint and carbon neutrality pathway of green tea in China. Advances in Climate Change Research. 2022, 13 443-453. https: / / doi.Or / 10.1016 / i.accre.2022.04.001.Mansur J.S., Breder M.N.R., Mansur M.C.A., Azulay R.D. Determina^ao do fator de prote^ao solar por espectrofotometria. An. Bras. Derm. 1986;61:121-124.Mila, G.; Primasari, B.; Aziz, R. Application of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) On Green Tea Product (Case Study in the X Company). IOP Conf. Ser. Mater. Sci. Eng. 2021, 1041, 012025.Pagels F, Almeida C, Vasconcelos V, Guedes AC. Cosmetic Potential of Pigments Extracts from the Marine Cyanobacterium Cyanobium sp. Mar Drugs. 2022 Jul 27;20(8):481. doi: 10.3390 / md20080481. PMID: 36005483; PMCID: PMC9409843.Pagels, F.; Arias, A.; Guerreiro, A.; Guedes, A.C.; Moreira, M.T. Seaweed Cosmetics under the Spotlight of Sustainability. Phycology 2022, 2, 374-383. https: / / doi.org / 10.3390 / phvcology2040021Petruzzi, Dominique. Market value for natural and organic beauty worldwide 2020-2031.16 Nov 2022 https: / / www.statista.com / statistics / 673641 / global-market-value-for- natural-cosmetics / Rohr M., Klette E., Ruppert S., Bimzcok R., Klebon B., Heinrich U., Zastrow L. In vitro Sun Protection Factor: Still a Challenge with No Final Answer. Ski. Pharmacol. Physiol. 2010;23:201-212. doi: 10.1159 / 000292777.

Claims

C L A I M S1. Composition comprising:10-40 % (w / w) of an alcoholic extract of Fucus spp.; and60-90 % (w / w) of a seed oil; wherein the species of Fucus spp. is selected from the list consisting of: Fucus serratus, Fucus spiralis, Fucus distichus, Fucus vesiculosus, or mixtures thereof; wherein the seed oil is selected from the list consisting of: almond oil, argan oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, or mixtures thereof.

2. Composition according to the previous claim wherein the alcoholic extract is of a species of Fucus spp. selected from the list consisting of: Fucus serratus, Fucus spiralis, Fucus vesiculosus, or mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to the previous claim wherein the alcoholic extract is of Fucus vesiculosus.

4. Composition according to any of the previous claims wherein the seed oil is selected from the list consisting of: almond oil, castor oil, or linseed oil, or mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to the previous claims wherein the seed oil is castor oil, linseed oil, or mixtures thereof; preferably the seed oil is linseed oil.

6. Composition according to any of the previous claims wherein: the species of Fucus spp. is Fucus vesiculosus and the seed oil is linseed oil; or the species of Fucus spp. is Fucus vesiculosus and the seed oil is almond oil; or the species of Fucus spp. is Fucus vesiculosus and the seed oil is castor oil; or the species of Fucus spp. is Fucus spiralis and the seed oil is linseed oil; or the species of Fucus spp. is Fucus spiralis and the seed oil is almond oil; or the species of Fucus spp. is Fucus spiralis and the seed oil is castor oil; or the species of Fucus spp. is Fucus serratus and the seed oil is linseed oil; or the species of Fucus spp. is Fucus serratus and the seed oil is almond oil; orthe species of Fucus spp. is Fucus serratus and the seed oil is castor oil.

7. Composition according to any of the previous claims wherein the extract of Fucus spp is an extract obtained from the thalus of Fucus spp seaweed; preferably from the stipe of Fucus spp seaweed.

8. Composition according to any of the previous claims wherein the extract of Fucus spp. is an ethanolic extract.

9. Composition according to any of the previous claims comprising 20-30 % (w / w) of extract of Fucus spp.; preferably 20-25 % (w / w).

10. Composition according to any of the previous claims comprising 70-85 % (w / w) of seed oil; preferably 70-80 % (w / w); more preferably 75-80 % (w / w).

11. Composition according to any of the previous claims wherein the ratio between extract of Fucus spp.: seed oil ranges from 1:1.5 to 1:9; preferably 1:3 to 1:5; more preferably 1:3 to 1:4.

12. Composition according to any of the previous claims having a UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of at least 3 and / or having a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 0.5.

13. Composition according to any of the previous claims wherein the extract comprises: 70-80 % (w / w) of lipidic compounds; preferably 73-77 % (w / w);0.1-1 % (w / w) of carotenoids; preferably 0.2-0.5 % (w / w);1-10 % (w / w) of phenolic compounds; preferably 1-5 % (w / w).

14. Composition according to the previous claims 1-13 for use in the treatment of the reduction of a skin irritation; preferably for a skin irritation caused by external agents such as allergens, irritants, mechanical friction, or environmental stressors.

15. Topical composition comprising the composition according to any of the previous claims; preferably comprising 0.5-10% (w / w) of the composition according to any of the previous claims; more preferably 1 -7% (w / w); even more preferably 1-3% (w / w).

16. Use of the composition according to any of the previous claims 1-14 as an antioxidant agent, hydration agent, anti- pigmentation spot agent, anti-blemishing agent and / or anti-wrinkle agent and / or as a skin calming agent; namely in a cosmetic composition.

17. Method for obtaining the composition according to any of the previous claims 1-14 comprising the steps of: obtaining dried seaweeds of Fucus spp.; milling the dried seaweeds of Fucus spp; mixing the milled dried seaweeds with an alcoholic solvent (extraction solvent) to form a mixture comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction; stirring the mixture; separating the liquid fraction and the solid fraction of the mixture; concentrating the liquid fraction to obtain an extract; drying the extract to obtain a dry extract; mixing the dry extract with a seed oil.

18. Method according to the previous claim wherein the extraction solvent is an ethanolic solvent; preferably ethanol.

19. Method according to any of the previous claims 17-18 wherein the extraction (mixing the milled dried seaweed with an alcoholic solvent to form a mixture comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction) time ranges from 0.5-1 h, preferably 0.5-1 h.

20. Method according to any of the previous claims 17-19 wherein the extraction temperature ranges from 15°C -30°C, preferably 25°C.

21. Method according to any of the previous claims 17-20 wherein the extract of Fucus spp. is an extract obtained from the thalus of Fucus spp. seaweed; preferably from the stipe of Fucus spp. seaweed.

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