Compositions and methods for treating keratin fibers
A synergistic combination of amino acids, osmolytes, and carboxylic acids in a pH-adjusted composition addresses color fading in color-treated hair, enhancing hair moisture and reducing fading from environmental and chemical stress.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/BR2024/050276
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-26
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-02
AI Technical Summary
Consumers experience color fading in color-treated hair due to chemical, environmental, and mechanical influences, and there is a need for sustainable cosmetic compositions that minimize this fading while using renewable raw materials.
A synergistic combination of amino acids, osmolytes, and carboxylic acids in a composition with a pH less than 7, applied to color-treated hair, which includes optional fatty compounds, surfactants, and thickening agents, to reduce color fading.
The composition effectively reduces color fading in hair exposed to UV exposure and harsh chemical treatments, maintaining moisture equilibrium and restoring hair strength.
Smart Images

Figure BR2024050276_02012026_PF_FP_ABST
Abstract
Description
[0001] COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS TECHNICAL FIELD
[0002] The present disclosure relates to methods for reducing color fading in color-treated keratin fibers.
[0003] BACKGROUND
[0004] There are several external influences that can damage hair. Hair fibers are subject to chemical influences, such as bleaching, dyeing, permanent waving, relaxing, straightening, and excessive washing with shampoo compositions; environmental influences such as exposure to chlorine and ultraviolet light (“UV”); and mechanical influences from heated devices like blow dryers, curling irons, and flat irons. As a result of these influences, consumers experience fading of their color- treated hair. While the washing process is one of the most significant factors in hair color removal, UV exposure also has a significant effect. Additionally, the surfactants present in shampoo formulations provide a humectant function that introduces moisture into the hair shaft, which facilitates the removal of hair dye molecules during the water rinsing process. Consumers are in need of solutions that would minimize the fading of their color-treated hair caused by such external influences.
[0005] The formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is also becoming a major goal in an effort to meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients, along with uses of such sustainable compositions, to address these environmental concerns. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good index of naturalness and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0006] The present inventors have now discovered a synergistic combination of components that is surprisingly effective for reducing color fading in color-treated hair that was exposed to chemical, environmental, and / or mechanical influences. Hair treated with compositions according to the disclosure exhibit surprisingly reduced color fading, in particular hair that has been damaged by UV exposure or harsh chemical treatments such as bleaching, dyeing, permanent waving, straightening, relaxing, etc.
[0007] SUMMARY The present disclosure relates to methods for reducing color fading in color-treated keratin fibers, e.g., human hair, that was exposed to chemical, environmental, and / or mechanical influences, for example UV exposure and / or harsh chemical compositions and processes. The compositions that can be used in the methods comprise a synergistic combination of one or more amino acids, one or more osmolytes, and one or more carboxylic acids, and the methods comprise applying a composition according to the disclosure to the color-treated keratin fibers.
[0008] In various embodiments, the compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, and (d) at least one solvent. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7 or less than about 6, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.
[0009] In some embodiments, the compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid chosen from basic amino acids, for example arginine, histidine, lysine, salts thereof, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of basic amino acids and salts thereof ranges from about 0.1 % to about 15%, preferably from about 1 % to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably still from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments the compositions comprise at least one amino acid chosen from acidic or neutral amino acids and salts thereof, for example serine. In various embodiments, the total amount of acidic and / or neutral amino acids and salts thereof ranges from about 0.01 % to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 3%, and most preferably from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In still further embodiments, the compositions comprise a mixture of basic, acidic, and / or neutral amino acids, for example the compositions may comprise arginine and serine. In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof present in the composition ranges from about 0.1 % to about 15%, preferably from about 1 % to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably still from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0010] In some preferred embodiments, compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), and combinations of two or more thereof.
[0011] In various embodiments, the compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one osmolyte chosen from carbohydrate sugars, methylsulfonium compounds, polyamines, and / or amino acid derivatives such as betaines, preferably chosen from compounds of formula (II). In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition ranges from about 0.01 % to about 10%, preferably from about 1 % to about 5%, more preferably from about 1 .25% to about 4%, more preferably still from about 1 .5% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 2% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to the total amount of osmolytes that is equal to or greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1 , preferably ranging from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1 .75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1 .75 to about 2.25.
[0012] In various embodiments, the compositions that can be used in methods of the present disclosure comprise at least one carboxylic acid chosen from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof, and preferably citric acid, lactic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof may range from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1 % to about 15%, more preferably from about 2% to about 12%, more preferably still from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof to the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof of greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1 .5.
[0013] The solvent may comprise water and / or at least one non-aqueous solvent, and in some embodiments comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent. Optionally, the compositions comprise water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, and have a total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranging from about 1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 20%, more preferably from about 5% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 8% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0014] The compositions may optionally also include at least one additional component chosen from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, direct dyes or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0015] In certain embodiments, compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise (a) at least one amino acid and / or a salt thereof, (b) at least one betaine, preferably at least one compound of formula (II), for example glycine betaine, in an amount ranging from about 1 % to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one carboxylic acid and / or a salt thereof, (d) at least one solvent, and (e) optionally at least one additional component chosen from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, direct dyes, or combinations thereof. For example, in at least some embodiments, the composition comprises arginine and the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 1 % to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof, for example arginine, serine, salts thereof, or combinations thereof, to the total amount of betaines, preferably chosen from compounds of formula (II) and salts thereof, for example glycine betaine, that is greater than or equal to about 0.5, such as greater than about 1 , preferably from about 1 .25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1 .5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1 .75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1 .75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof to the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof that is greater than about 0.5 or greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1 .5. In preferred embodiments, the compositions used in methods of the present disclosure comprise (a) at least one amino carboxylic acid or a salt thereof, preferably chosen from arginine and / or a salt thereof, (b) at least one betaine derivative, preferably chosen from glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, and / or salts thereof, (d) water. For example, the composition may comprise (a) from about 2% to about 6% of arginine and / or a salt thereof, (b) from about 0.5% to about 3.5% of glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, and / or salts thereof, (d) water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, and (e) optionally serine, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof ranges from about 2% to about 10%, and wherein all amounts are by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof to glycine betaine of greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1 , preferably from about 1 .25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1 .75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1 .75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof to the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof of greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5. In some embodiments, the compositions include at least one additional component chosen from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof. If present, the compositions comprise serine in an amount ranging from about 0.01 % to about 2%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 1 %, and most preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. When the compositions comprise serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to serine of greater than about 2, preferably ranging from about 2 to about 15, more preferably from about 4 to about 14, more preferably still from about 6 to about 13, and most preferably from about 8 to about 12. When the compositions comprise serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of glycine betaine to serine of greater than about 2, preferably ranging from about 2 to about 10, more preferably from about 3 to about 8, more preferably still from about 3.5 to about 7, and most preferably from about 4 to about 6.
[0016] The disclosure further relates to methods of treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising applying a composition according to the disclosure to the keratin fibers. The composition may be left on the hair for an optional leave-in period, and optionally rinsed from the hair.
[0017] BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0018] FIG. 1 is a photograph showing the wash out of dye from color-treated hair exposed to deionized water (swatches S1-S3) vs. hair exposed to the antifading composition of the disclosure (swatches S4-S6).
[0019] FIG. 2 are bar graphs showing the color change in color-treated hair (swatches S10-S12) vs. color-treated hair that is also treated with the antifading composition of the present disclosure swatches (S13-S15).
[0020] FIG. 3 is a graph showing the color change of permed, red-dyed hair fibers of untreated swatches (swatches S100-S102) vs. similar swatches treated with the antifading composition of the present disclosure (swatches S103-S105).
[0021] FIG. 4 shows the structures of certain exemplary osmolytes that can be included in compositions according to the disclosure.
[0022] DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0023] The disclosure relates to methods for treating hair, for example for reducing the color fading in color-treated hair. As used herein, “color-treated” hair is hair that is bleached and / or is dyed with a permanent or semi-permanent dye. Color- treated hair that is treated according to the disclosure exhibits surprisingly reduced signs of color fading, especially after exposure to external influences such as UV, water, shampooing, and chemical treatments such as perming, straightening, and the like.
[0024] I. COMPOSITIONS
[0025] The compositions that can be used in methods according to the present disclosure comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, and (d) at least one solvent. The compositions may optionally comprise one or more additional components, such as fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, direct dyes, or combinations thereof.
[0026] Amino Acids
[0027] Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid. Optionally, in various embodiments, compositions according to the disclosure can comprise one, two, or three amino acids. Amino acids that can be chosen include those that are basic, acidic, or neutral at neutral pH. In preferred embodiments, compositions include at least one basic amino acid.
[0028] As used herein, the term “amino acid” includes amino carboxylic acids and salts thereof as well as amino sulfonic acids and salts thereof. As used herein, amino acids are understood to refer to organic compounds containing a carboxylic acid group ( — COOH) (amino carboxylic acids) and / or sulfonic acid group ( — S(=O)2-OH) (amino sulfonic acids) and an amino group ( — NH2) which may be primary or secondary, or may be intra-cyclic, along with a side chain (R group) specific to each amino acid.
[0029] Amino carboxylic acids that may be chosen include, for example, alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and combinations of two or more thereof. Exemplary amino sulfonic acids include aminomethane sulfonic acid, 2-aminoethane sulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropane sulfonic acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexane sulfonic acid, aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid, aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoluene sulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic acid, amino phenol sulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic acid, amino hexyl benzene sulfonic acid, and combinations of two or more thereof.
[0030] Salts of amino acids are also included in the term “amino acid,” whether or not so stated. By way of non-limiting example, salts that may be chosen include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example the salts of alkali metals, such as the lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; the salts of alkaline earth metals, such as the magnesium or calcium salts, and the zinc salts.
[0031] Furthermore, amino acids can be in either the D-, L-, or DL- configuration. In some preferred embodiments, it is advantageous to choose amino acids in the L- configuration, for example L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine, L-lysine, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0032] In some embodiments it is particularly advantageous to choose one or more amino carboxylic acids. Thus, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids of formula (I):
[0033] COOH wherein: p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and when p = 1 , R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, it being possible for this ring to be substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1-C4)alkyl; or when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear, or branched (C1-C12)alkyl group, preferably a (C1-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH-, or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (- NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.
[0034] In some embodiments when p = 1 , R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 ring members, this ring not being substituted.
[0035] In some embodiments when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear, or branched (C1 -C4)alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring. In some embodiments p is preferably 2.
[0036] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more amino acids chosen from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least certain embodiments, the amino acid compounds in the composition consist essentially of or consist of amino acids chosen from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0037] In some embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of glycine and / or salts thereof. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or salts thereof. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of proline and / or salts thereof. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of methionine and / or salts thereof. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of serine and / or salts thereof. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or salts thereof. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of histidine and / or salts thereof. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lysine and / or salts thereof. In still further embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of basic amino acids and / or salts thereof.
[0038] In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids may range from about 0.1 % to about 15%, such as about 0.1 % to about 12%, about 0.1 % to about 10%, about 0.1 % to about 9%, about 0.1 % to about 8%, about 0.1 % to about 7%, about 0.1 % to about 6%, about 0.1 % to about 5.5%, about 0.1 % to about 5%, about 0.1 % to about 4.5%, about 0.1 % to about 4%, about 0.1 % to about 3.5%, about 0.1 % to about 3%, about 0.1 % to about 2.5%, about 0.1 % to about 2%, about 0.1 % to about 1 .5%, about 0.1 % to about 1 %, about 0.5% to about 15%, about 0.5% to about 12%, about 0.5% to about 10%, about 0.5% to about 9%, about 0.5% to about 8%, about 0.5% to about 7%, about 0.5% to about 6%, about 0.5% to about 5.5%, about 0.5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 4.5%, about 0.5% to about 4%, about 0.5% to about 3.5%, about 0.5% to about 3%, about 0.5% to about 2.5%, about 0.5% to about 2%, about 0.5% to about 1 .5%, about 0.5% to about 1 %, about 1 % to about 15%, about 1 % to about 12%, about 1 % to about 10%, about 1 % to about 9%, about 1 % to about 8%, about 1 % to about 7%, about 1 % to about 6%, about 1 % to about 5.5%, about 1 % to about 5%, about 1 % to about 4.5%, about 1 % to about 4%, about 1 % to about 3.5%, about 1 % to about 3%, about 1 % to about 2.5%, about 1 % to about 2%, about 1 % to about 1.5%, about 1.5% to about 15%, about 1 .5% to about 12%, about 1 .5% to about 10%, about 1 .5% to about 9%, about 1.5% to about 8%, about 1.5% to about 7%, about 1.5% to about 6%, about 1.5% to about 5.5%, about 1.5% to about 5%, about 1.5% to about 4.5%, about 1.5% to about 4%, about 1 .5% to about 3.5%, about 1 .5% to about 3%, about 1 .5% to about 2.5%, about 1.5% to about 2%, about 2% to about 15%, about 2% to about 12%, about 2% to about 10%, about 2% to about 9%, about 2% to about 8%, about 2% to about 7%, about 2% to about 6%, about 2% to about 5.5%, about 2% to about 5%, about 2% to about 4.5%, about 2% to about 4%, about 2% to about 3.5%, about 2% to about 3%, about 2% to about 2.5%, about 2.5% to about 15%, about 2.5% to about 12%, about 2.5% to about 10%, about 2.5% to about 9%, about 2.5% to about 8%, about 2.5% to about 7%, about 2.5% to about 6%, about 2.5% to about 5.5%, about 2.5% to about 5%, about 2.5% to about 4.5%, about 2.5% to about 4%, about 2.5% to about 3.5%, about 2.5% to about 3%, about 3% to about 15%, about 3% to about 12%, about 3% to about 10%, about 3% to about 9%, about 3% to about 8%, about 3% to about 7%, about 3% to about 6%, about 3% to about 5.5%, about 3% to about 5%, about 3% to about 4.5%, about 3% to about 4%, about 3% to about 3.5%, about 3.5% to about 15%, about 3.5% to about 12%, about 3.5% to about 10%, about 3.5% to about 9%, about 3.5% to about 8%, about 3.5% to about 7%, about 3.5% to about 6%, about 3.5% to about 5.5%, about 3.5% to about 5%, about 3.5% to about 4.5%, about 3.5% to about 4%, about 4% to about 15%, about 4% to about 12%, about 4% to about 10%, about 4% to about 9%, about 4% to about 8%, about 4% to about 7%, about 4% to about 6%, about 4% to about 5.5%, about 4% to about 5%, about 4% to about 4.5%, about 4.5% to about 15%, about 4.5% to about 12%, about 4.5% to about 10%, about 4.5% to about 9%, about 4.5% to about 8%, about 4.5% to about 7%, about 4.5% to about 6%, about 4.5% to about 5.5%, or about 4.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, about 3% to about 7%, about 3.5% to about 6.5%, about 3.75% to about 6.25%, about 4% to about 6%, about 4.25% to about 5.75%, about 4.5% to about 5.5%, about 4.75% to about 5.25%, or about 4.8% to about 5.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amino acids may be about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1 %, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4%, or about 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of basic amino acids in any of the foregoing ranges and amounts.
[0039] In one preferred embodiment, the compositions comprise arginine and / or a salt thereof. In another preferred embodiment, where more than one amino acid is present, arginine is present in the composition in an amount greater than the combined amounts of the other amino acid(s) present, for example arginine comprises greater than about 50%, such as greater than about 60%, greater than about 70%, greater than about 80%, greater than about 90%, greater than about 95%, greater than about 98%, or greater than about 99% of all amino acids present in the composition. In a further preferred embodiment, arginine is the only the basic amino acid in the composition.
[0040] In various preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine in an amount ranging from about 1 % to about 10%, such as from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, preferably from about 3% to about 7%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, more preferably from about 4% to about 6%, more preferably from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, more preferably still from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, yet more preferably from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, and most preferably from about 4.8% to about 5.2%, or may be present in an amount of about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1 %, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4%, or about 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
[0041] In another preferred embodiment, compositions according to the disclosure comprise serine and / or a salt thereof. If present, the amount of serine may range from about 0.01 % to about 2%, such as from about 0.01 % to about 1 .5%, about 0.01 % to about 1 %, about 0.01 % to about 0.5%, about 0.01 % to about 0.4%, about 0.01 % to about 0.3%, about 0.01 % to about 0.2%, about 0.01 % to about 0.1 %, about 0.05% to about 2%, about 0.05% to about 1.5%, about 0.05% to about 1 %, about 0.05% to about 0.5%, about 0.05% to about 0.4%, about 0.05% to about 0.3%, about 0.05% to about 0.2%, about 0.05% to about 0.1 %, about 0.1 % to about 2%, about 0.1 % to about 1 .5%, about 0.1 % to about 1 %, or about 0.1 % to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some preferred embodiments, the compositions may comprise serine in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 1 %, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 0.75%, and most preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, such as about 0.1 %, about 0.25%, about 0.5%, about 0.75%, or about 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
[0042] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to choose at least one basic amino acid and at least one additional amino acid chosen from acidic and / or neutral amino acids. For example, in preferred embodiments it may be advantageous to include at least one basic amino acid and serine in compositions according to the disclosure, and to choose total amounts of basic amino acids and serine such that the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine that is greater than about 2, such as greater than about 3, greater than about 4, greater than about 5, or greater than about 6. For example, the composition may have a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, such as from about 4 to about 14, from about 6 to about 13, from about 8 to about 12, or from about 9 to about 11 . In further examples, the weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine may be about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11 , or about 12. In some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises serine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11 , or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11 , or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
[0043] In still further preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise serine and arginine, and have a weight ratio of arginine to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11 , or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11 , or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
[0044] Osmolytes
[0045] Osmolytes are molecules, typically of lower molecular weight, used by cells to maintain cell volume, regulate osmotic pressure, and maintain cellular homeostasis, for example in response to environmental stressors. Organic osmolytes include amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof, carbohydrates such sugars and sugar alcohols (polyols), polyamines, betaines, methylsulfonium compounds (e.g. dimethylsulfonopropionate), and urea. For purposes of this disclosure, “osmolytes” includes derivatives of amino carboxylic acids, derivatives of amino sulfonic acids, and salts of the derivatives (referred to herein collectively as “amino acid derivatives”), but does not include amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, or salts thereof which are described above, and does not include polyols.
[0046] Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise one or more osmolytes, preferably one or more organic osmolytes. In some embodiments, the compositions comprise more than one osmolyte. Without intending to be bound by theory, it is believed that the use of osmolytes according to the disclosure permits treated hair to maintain moisture equilibrium, thus reducing potential damage to the hair, or restores moisture equilibrium to already-damaged hair, thereby allowing the treated hair to recover strength and / or reduced elasticity associated with healthy hair.
[0047] In preferred embodiments, useful osmolytes are chosen from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, amino acid derivatives such as betaines, and more preferably are chosen from compounds of formula (II) or salts thereof:
[0048] (R1 )(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)n-Y-
[0049] (H) wherein:
[0050] R1 , R2, and R3 are independently chosen from C1 -C4 alkyl groups, preferably C1 -C2 alkyl groups, more preferably methyl;
[0051] A is N or S; m and n are independently 0 or 1 ;
[0052] X is a divalent alkyl group (= an alkylene group), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (- NH2); and
[0053] Y’ is -COO- or -OSO3-; with the provisos that: when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched, and / or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), (C1 -C10) hydrocarbon chain, preferably (C1 -C6), more preferably (C1 -C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or-C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2; when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1 -C8)alkyl, preferably (C1 -C4)alkyl, group; and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, it being possible for this ring to be substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1 -C4)alkyl; and when A is N and m = 1 , then R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains) (C1 -C10) hydrocarbon chain, preferably (C1 -C6), more preferably (C1 -C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or-C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2.
[0054] Useful and non-limiting polyamine compounds may comprise primary and / or secondary and / or tertiary and / or quaternary amine functional groups. By way of example, polyamines that can be chosen include diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, and polymeric polyamines or polyimines, such as, for example, hexamethylenediamine, diethylenetetramine, diethylenetriamine, polyethyleneimine (PEI), polyvinyl amine, polyether amine, polylysine, ethylene diamine, 1 ,3- diaminopropane, cadaverine, spermidine, spermine, putrescine, tetraethylmethylenediamine, triethylenetetramine, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, useful polyamines are chosen from putrescine, spermidine, and / or spermine.
[0055] Useful and nonlimiting examples of betaines include glycine betaine, valine betaine, alanine betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, etc. Salts of betaines can also be used and are expressly included in the term “betaine” unless expressly stated otherwise. In particularly preferred embodiments, betaines are chosen from those corresponding to formula (II). Exemplary useful compounds of formula (II) include the compounds shown in FIGS. 5A-5B. As shown in FIG. 5A, in some embodiments the compounds of formula (II) are in zwitterionic form, and as shown in FIG. 5B, in some embodiments the compounds of formula (II) have a corresponding counterion, X’. The counterion is not limited, and can be any suitable counterion, for example a chloride ion, bromide ion, iodide ion, sulfate anion, sulfonate anion, methyl sulfate anion, phosphate anion, nitrate anion, etc. Thus, as used herein a “compound of formula (II)” expressly includes both the ionic form of the compound as well as salt forms, whether or not so stated.
[0056] As shown in FIG. 4A, exemplary useful compounds of formula (II) include betaine and betaine derivatives (referred to herein as “betaines”), for example valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine (trimethyl glycine), histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, alanine betaine, betaalanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, and / or dimethylsulfoniopropionate. In a preferred embodiment, the osmolyte is glycine betaine (trimethyl glycine), alone or in combination with one or more additional osmolytes, for example one or more additional compounds of formula (II).
[0057] In some preferred embodiments, compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II). In additional preferred embodiments, compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more compounds of formula (II) that is a zwitterionic amino acid derivative bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising in total from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0058] In some preferred embodiments, compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R1 = R2 = methyl; A is N; and / or Y is COO-. In some other preferred embodiments, compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R3 is methyl. In other preferred embodiments, compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one group chosen from hydroxyl or amino. In still other preferred embodiments, compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms (not substituted), such as methylene or ethylene. In other preferred embodiments, compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R4 and R5, which may be the same or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, a saturated, linear or branched (C1 -C10) alkyl group, preferably (C1 -C6)alky I , more preferably (C1 -C4) alkyl; a phenyl group; a benzyl group; an alkyl group substituted by a cyclic group (saturated or not, mono or bi-cyclic); a cyclic group (saturated or not, mono or bi-cyclic) substituted by an alkyl group; all these groups being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2; more preferably where R4 is hydrogen and / or where R5 is a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1 -C6)alkyl, more preferably (C1 -C4) alkyl; optionally substituted by one group chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -COOH, or -CONH2. In some preferred embodiments, when A is N and m = 0, R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted by one hydroxy group. In further preferred embodiments, R1 = R2 = methyl, A is N, Y is COO-, and X (if present) is a divalent alkyl group that may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms.
[0059] In one preferred embodiment, the composition that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprises at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R1 = R2 = R3 = methyl; A is N; Y is COO-; X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one group chosen from hydroxyl or amino, more preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms (not substituted), such as methylene or ethylene; R4 is hydrogen; and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted by one hydroxy group.
[0060] In preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more of the compounds shown in FIG. 4A. In more preferred embodiments, compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise trimethyl glycine (referred to interchangeably as glycine betaine), optionally in combination with at least one additional osmolyte, and in particularly preferred embodiments the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of glycine betaine optionally with at least one additional compound of formula (II). Useful and non-limiting examples of carbohydrate sugars that can be used include C3-C6 monosaccharides, for example pentoses and / or derivatives thereof, or hexoses and / or derivatives thereof. For example, the sugars may optionally be chosen from chosen from xylose, arabinose, ribose, 2-deoxy-ribose, ribulose, deoxy-ribulose, arabinose, xylulose, allose, altrose, glucose (including dextrose), glucosamine, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, tagatose, or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least some embodiments, the sugars are chosen from disaccharides, for example sucrose (also saccharose), maltose, lactose, cellobiose, trehalose, dextran, or from polysaccharides, for example maltotriose, starch, dextrins, cellulose, glycogen, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the sugars are preferably chosen from trehalose, glucose, sucrose, fructose, fructans, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0061] In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may range from about 0.01 % to about 15%, such as, for example, from about 0.1 % to about 10%, from about 0.1 % to about 9%, from about 0.1 % to about 8%, from about 0.1 % to about 7%, from about 0.1 % to about 6%, from about 0.1 % to about 5%, from about 0.1 % to about 4%, from about 0.1 % to about 3%, from about 0.1 % to about 2%, from about 0.1 % to about 1 %, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1 %, from about 1 % to about 10%, from about 1 % to about 9%, from about 1 % to about 8%, from about 1 % to about 7%, from about 1 % to about 6%, from about 1 % to about 5%, from about 1 % to about 4%, from about 1 % to about 3%, from about 1 % to about 2%, from about 1 .5% to about 10%, from about 1 .5% to about 9%, from about 1 .5% to about 8%, from about 1 .5% to about 7%, from about 1 .5% to about 6%, from about 1 .5% to about 5%, from about 1 .5% to about 4%, from about 1 .5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2.25% to about 10%, from about 2.25% to about 9%, from about 2.25% to about 8%, from about 2.25% to about 7%, from about 2.25% to about 6%, from about 2.25% to about 5%, from about 2.25% to about 4%, from about 2.25% to about 3%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2.5% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may be about 2.0%, about 2.1 %, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
[0062] In preferred embodiments the compositions that can be used comprise at least one betaine, and the total amount of betaines ranges from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example from about 1 % to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or may be about 2.0%, about 2.1 %, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
[0063] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises glycine betaine in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example about 1 % to about 5%, preferably from about 1 .25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1 .5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or the glycine betaine may be present in an amount of about 2.0%, about 2.1 %, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
[0064] It may be advantageous, in some embodiments, to choose amounts of amino acids and osmolytes to provide a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and salts thereof in the composition to the total amount of osmolytes in the composition that is greater than about 0.1 , for example greater than about 0.2, greater than about 0.5, greater than about 1 , greater than about 1 .25, greater than about 1 .5, greater than about 1 .75, or greater than about 2. In various embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and salts thereof to the total amount of osmolytes may range from about 0.1 to about 10, such as from about 0.2 to about 8, from about 0.5 to about 6, from about 1 to about 5, from about 1 .2 to about 4, or from about 1.5 to about 3.5. In other embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and salts thereof to the total amount of osmolytes may range from greater than 1 to about 4, such as from about 1 .25 to about 3.5, from about 1 .5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) in the composition to the total amount of osmolytes in the composition may be about 1.1 , about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1 , about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
[0065] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of amino acids chosen from compounds of formula (I) and a total amount of osmolytes chosen from compounds of formula (II) such that a weight ratio of compounds of formula (l):compounds of formula (II) is greater than about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1 , for example greater than about 1 .25, greater than about 1 .5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In some embodiments, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I): compounds of formula (II) in the composition may range from about 0.5 to about 6, for example from about 1 to about 4, from about 1 .25 to about 3.5, from about 1 .5 to about 3, from about 1 .75 to about 2.5, from about 1 .75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (l):compounds of formula (II) in the composition may be about 0.5, about 0.6, about 0.7, about 0.8, about 0.9, about 1 , about 1.1 , about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1 , about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
[0066] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of arginine to glycine betaine of greater than 1 , for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example ranging from greater than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1 .5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1 .75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1 .75 to about 2.25. In another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine, serine, and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of [arginine + serine] to glycine betaine of greater than 1 , for example greater than about 1 .25, greater than about 1 .5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example ranging from greater than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1 .75 to about 2.25.
[0067] Carboxylic Acids
[0068] Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure include at least one carboxylic acid. Optionally, the compositions may comprise at least two carboxylic acids, at least three carboxylic acids, etc. According to various embodiments of the disclosure, useful carboxylic acids include organic compounds that include, for example, one (mono-), two (di-), three (tri-), or more acid functional groups and at least one carbon atom.
[0069] Carboxylic acids that can be used may optionally have a molecular weight of less than about 500 g / mol, less than about 400 g / mol, less than about 300 g / mol, or less than about 200 g / mol. In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids have a molecular weight of less than about 300 g / mol, or less than about 200 g / mol.
[0070] Salts of carboxylic acids can also be used and are expressly included in the term “carboxylic acid” unless expressly stated otherwise. The salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example the salts of alkali metals, such as the lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; the salts of alkaline earth metals, such as the magnesium or calcium salts, and the zinc salts. The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred in some embodiments, and in particular the sodium salts.
[0071] In preferred embodiments, carboxylic acids comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 14 carbon atoms. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and / or a salt thereof. These (poly)acids are different from the compounds of amino acids type described above. Useful (poly)acids comprise at least one -COOH group (in acid or salified form); they can thus comprise a single -COOH group (monoacid) or can comprise more than one, for example two - COOH groups (in acid or salified form), or two or three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form) (polyacids). Useful (poly)acids also comprise at least one -OH group, such as from one to three or from two to three -OH groups, for example one, two, or three -OH groups. Preferably, the (poly)acids comprise in total from 2 to 8 or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and from two to three -OH groups, and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably saturated and linear. In some preferred embodiments, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise in total from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, from one to three -OH groups, and from two to three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form). Unless stated otherwise, as used herein the term “(poly)acid” includes both monoacids and polyacids.
[0072] Non-limiting examples of monocarboxylic acids that can be chosen include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lactic acid and / or a salt thereof.
[0073] Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids that can be chosen include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the compositions may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0074] Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1 ,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of citric acid and / or a salt thereof.
[0075] In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) may be chosen from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof. In particularly preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids are chosen from a-hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, or citric acid, and their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts. It may in some embodiments be particularly advantageous to choose citric acid, lactic acid, and / or tartaric acid and / or their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; and preferably citric acid and / or its salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.
[0076] The total amount of carboxylic acid(s) may range from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 1 % to about 15%, such as about about 1 % to about 12%, about 1 % to about 10%, about 1 % to about 9%, about 1 % to about 8%, about 1 % to about 7%, about 1 % to about 6%, about 1 % to about 5.5%, about 1 % to about 5%, about 1 % to about 4.5%, about 1 % to about 4%, about 1 % to about 3.5%, about 1 % to about 3%, about 1 % to about 2.5%, about 1 % to about 2%, about 1 % to about 1 .5%, about 1 .5% to about 15%, about 1 .5% to about 12%, about 1 .5% to about 10%, about 1 .5% to about 9%, about 1 .5% to about 8%, about 1.5% to about 7%, about 1.5% to about 6%, about 1.5% to about 5.5%, about 1.5% to about 5%, about 1.5% to about 4.5%, about 1.5% to about 4%, about 1 .5% to about 3.5%, about 1 .5% to about 3%, about 1 .5% to about 2.5%, about 1 .5% to about 2%, about 2% to about 15%, about 2% to about 12%, about 2% to about 10%, about 2% to about 9%, about 2% to about 8%, about 2% to about 7%, about 2% to about 6%, about 2% to about 5.5%, about 2% to about 5%, about 2% to about 4.5%, about 2% to about 4%, about 2% to about 3.5%, about 2% to about 3%, about 2% to about 2.5%, about 2.5% to about 15%, about 2.5% to about 12%, about 2.5% to about 10%, about 2.5% to about 9%, about 2.5% to about 8%, about 2.5% to about 7%, about 2.5% to about 6%, about 2.5% to about 5.5%, about 2.5% to about 5%, about 2.5% to about 4.5%, about 2.5% to about 4%, about 2.5% to about 3.5%, about 2.5% to about 3%, about 3% to about 15%, about 3% to about 12%, about 3% to about 10%, about 3% to about 9%, about 3% to about 8%, about 3% to about 7%, about 3% to about 6%, about 3% to about 5.5%, about 3% to about 5%, about 3% to about 4.5%, about 3% to about 4%, about 3% to about 3.5%, about 3.5% to about 15%, about 3.5% to about 12%, about 3.5% to about 10%, about 3.5% to about 9%, about 3.5% to about 8%, about 3.5% to about 7%, about 3.5% to about 6%, about 3.5% to about 5.5%, about 3.5% to about 5%, about 3.5% to about 4.5%, about 3.5% to about 4%, about 4% to about 15%, about 4% to about 12%, about 4% to about 10%, about 4% to about 9%, about 4% to about 8%, about 4% to about 7%, about 4% to about 6%, about 4% to about 5.5%, about 4% to about 5%, about 4% to about 4.5%, about 4.5% to about 15%, about 4.5% to about 12%, about 4.5% to about 10%, about 4.5% to about 9%, about 4.5% to about 8%, about 4.5% to about 7%, about 4.5% to about 6%, about 4.5% to about 5.5%, about 4.5% to about 5%, about 5% to about 15%, about 5% to about 12%, about 5% to about 10%, about 5% to about 9%, about 5% to about 8%, about 5% to about 7%, about 5% to about 6.5%, about 5% to about 6%, about 5% to about 5.5%, about 5.5% to about 15%, about 5.5% to about 12%, about 5.5% to about 10%, about 5.5% to about 9%, about 5.5% to about 8%, about 5.5% to about 7%, about 5.5% to about 6.5%, about 5.5% to about 6%, about 6% to about 15%, about 6% to about 12%, about 6% to about 10%, about 6% to about 9%, about 6% to about 8%, about 6% to about 7%, or about 6% to about 6.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0077] In preferred embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acid(s) ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, about 4.5% to about 8%, about 5% to about 7%, about 5.5% to about 6.5%, about 5.7% to about 6.3%, or about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salts thereof, or combinations thereof, and has a total amount of carboxylic acids and salts ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, preferably from about 4.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably still from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, and most preferably from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0078] It may be advantageous in some embodiments to choose amounts of amino acids and carboxylic acids such that the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to the total amount of carboxylic acids of greater than about 0.75. For example, in various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to the total amount of carboxylic acids of greater than about 0.8, such as greater than about 0.9, greater than about 1 , greater than about 1.1 , greater than about 1.2, greater than about 1.3, greater than about 1.4, or greater than about 1.5. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to the total amount of carboxylic acids ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, such as from about 0.8 to about 1.5, from about 0.8 to about 1 .35, or from about 0.8 to about 1 .2. In some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine and at least one carboxylic acid chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salts thereof, or combinations thereof, and has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof to the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, preferably from about 0.8 to about 1 .5, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1 .35, and most preferably from about 0.8 to about 1 .2.
[0079] Solvents
[0080] Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one solvent. In various embodiments, solvents may be chosen from water, non-aqueous solvents, or a combination thereof.
[0081] In preferred embodiments, the solvent includes water. In certain embodiments, the composition comprises from about 50% to about 98% of water, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the composition comprises water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 95% water by weight, such as from about 50% to about 90%, about 55% to about 90%, about 60% to about 90%, or about 60% to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0082] In further embodiments, the solvent may include at least one nonaqueous solvent. Exemplary and non-limiting non-aqueous solvents that can be used include, for example, glycerin, C1-4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, laminar lipid materials, or combinations thereof. The non-aqueous solvent may be chosen from organic solvents, for example, monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
[0083] Preferably, the compositions comprise at least one polyol. The polyols can be chosen from diols and triols. In other embodiments, the polyols can be chosen from C2-C16 polyols, such as C2-C12 polyols, C2-C8 polyols, or C3-C8 polyols. In various embodiments, the polyols that can be used are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted polyols. Thus, in various embodiments, one or more polyols can be chosen from C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8, or C3-C8 diols, or C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8, or C3-C8 triols, any of which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted. By way of non-limiting example, polyols such as isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol may be chosen. In some embodiments, the polyols are chosen from propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1 ,2,6- hexanetriol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1 ,3- hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1 ,2-hexanediol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1 ,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1 ,3- propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5- dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1 ,2-diol, 2-ethyl-1 ,3-hexanediol, 4-methyl-1 ,2- pentanediol, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the polyols are chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, and combinations of two or more thereof. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the solvent comprises at least one polyol chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, glycerin, or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least certain preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more C2-C16 diols and / or C2-C16 triols, for example C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols. In other preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more glycols, for example propylene glycol and / or dipropylene glycol, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dipropylene glycol.
[0084] If present, the total amount of the non-aqueous solvents in the composition may range from about 0.1 % to about 20%, such as from about 1 % to about 20%, from about 1 .5% to about 15%, or from about 2% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably chosen from polyols. In some embodiments, the composition comprises water and at least one nonaqueous solvent, wherein the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 0.5% to about 18%, preferably from about 1 % to about 15%, more preferably from about 1 .5% to about 12%, more preferably still from about 2% to about 11 %, and most preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally further wherein the non-aqueous solvent comprises at least one solvent chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, or mixtures of two or more thereof, preferably chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a mixture of two or more thereof.
[0085] Surfactants
[0086] Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure may optionally comprise at least one surfactant. For example, the compositions may comprise one or more cationic surfactants and / or amphoteric surfactants, and in some embodiments the compositions may comprise mixtures of surfactants having the same or different ionicities.
[0087] Although the compositions may optionally include one or more anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants, in at least some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants. For example, in some embodiments the compositions comprise less than about 3%, such as less than about 2.5%, less than about 2%, less than about 1 .75%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1.25%, less than about 1 %, less than about 0.75%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.25%, less than about 0.2%, less than about 0.1 %, less than about 0.05%, less than about 0.01 %, or less than about 0.001 % of anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants.
[0088] In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant. The term “cationic surfactant” means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the composition(s) according to the disclosure. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functions that are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure. Non-limiting examples of useful cationic surfactants include brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride (Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium POE (10) oletyl ether phosphate, diethanolammonium POE (3)oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumbentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphen bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCI, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1 , procainehydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkoniumhectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethyl propylenediamine dihydrofluoride, tallowtrimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethyl ammonium bromide, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations thereof. In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant chosen from brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0089] If present, the total amount of cationic surfactants may range up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1 %, or up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of cationic surfactants may range from about 0.001 % to about 10%, from about 0.01 % to about 8%, from about 0.1 % to about 6%, or from about 0.5% to about 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In at least some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant, and have a total amount of cationic surfactants ranging from about 0.25% to about 8%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6%, and most preferably from about 1 % to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0090] In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant. Non-limiting examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines where the aliphatic radical can be straight or branched chain and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate. Exemplary amphoteric surfactants include sodium cocam inopropionate, sodium cocam inodipropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium cornamphopropionate, sodium lauram inopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium cornamphopropionate, sodium lauriminodipropionate, ammonium cocam inopropionate, ammonium cocam inodipropionate, ammonium cocoamphoacetate, ammonium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium cocoamphopropionate, ammonium cornamphopropionate, ammonium lauram inopropionate, ammonium lauroamphoacetate, ammonium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium lauroamphopropionate, ammonium cornamphopropionate, ammonium lauriminodipropionate, triethanonlamine cocam inopropionate, triethanonlamine cocam inodipropionate, triethanonlamine cocoamphoacetate, triethanonlamine cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanonlamine cocoamphopropionate, triethanonlamine cornamphopropionate, triethanonlamine lauram inopropionate, triethanonlamine lauroamphoacetate, triethanonlamine lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanonlamine lauroamphopropionate, triethanonlamine cornamphopropionate, triethanonlamine lauriminodipropionate, cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphoadipropionate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodipriopionate, disodium cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropyl- sulfonate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium dicarboxyethylcocopropylenediamine, disodium laureth-5 carboxyamphodiacetate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium PPG-2-isodecethyl-7 carboxyamphodiacetate, lauraminopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, lauryl aminopropylglycine, and lauryl diethylenediaminoglycine.
[0091] Betaine surfactants may also be used. For example, coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl betaine, stearyl bis-(2- hydroxypropyl) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma-carboxypropyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, coco dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, stearyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl sulfoethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine, or cocam idopropyl betaine may be chosen.
[0092] If present, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may range up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1 %, or up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may range from about 0.001 % to about 6%, from about 0.01 % to about 4%, from about 0.1 % to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In at least some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of amphoteric surfactants.
[0093] In some embodiments, the surfactant does not include behentrimonium chloride. In some embodiments, the surfactant comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more alkylamidoamines, for example brassicam idopropyl dimethylamine.
[0094] Fatty Compounds
[0095] Optionally, compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure may include at least one fatty compound. In certain embodiments, the at least one fatty compound may be chosen from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids, esters of fatty alcohols, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal, silicone and non-silicone oils, silicone and non-silicone waxes, or combinations of any two or more thereof.
[0096] In some embodiments, compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound chosen from volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, which may optionally be amino functionalized. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils that can be used include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11 , phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. For example, the composition may comprise at least one silicone chosen from amodimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG- 8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-3 / 10 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-4 / 12 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG- 17 / 18 Dimethicone, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG- 10 Phosphate, or a mixture of two or more thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a silicone oil component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dimethicone, amodimethicone, or a mixture thereof.
[0097] As further examples, the silicone oil may be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyl-diphenyl)trisiloxanes, or (2-phenylethyl)trimethyl- siloxysilicates.
[0098] In some embodiments, compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound chosen from fatty alcohols. In certain embodiments, “fatty alcohol” refers to any alcohol with a carbon chain of C5 or greater, such as, for example, C8 or greater, C10 or greater, or C12 or greater, such as from 6 to 30 carbon atoms or from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated or non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.
[0099] By way of example, fatty alcohols may be chosen from arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a fatty alcohol component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
[0100] Useful and non-limiting fatty acids may be straight or branched chain acids and / or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be chosen from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, or combinations thereof.
[0101] In some embodiments, fatty acid esters or fatty alcohol esters may be chosen. For example, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1 -C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1 - C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters more particularly being greater than or equal to 10 may be used. In other embodiments, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1 -C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra-, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. As non-limiting examples, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, (iso)stearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, methyl acetyl ricinoleate, myristyl stearate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, and / or polyethylene glycol distearates may be chosen. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one fatty acid ester and / or fatty alcohol ester, for example pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.
[0102] In some embodiments, compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one wax. Non-limiting examples of waxes that can be used include beeswax, hydrogenated alkyl olive esters, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fibre wax or sugar cane wax, rice wax, rice bran wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, palm kernel glycerides / hydrogenated palm glycerides, palm butter, sumac wax, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax, theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, siliconyl candellila wax, Chinese wax, cetyl palmitate, lanolin, shellac, spermaceti, cetyl esters, hydrogenated castor wax; triglyceride esters such as tribehenin (glyceryl tribehenate); synthetic waxes such as those of the hydrocarbon type and polyethylene waxes obtained from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, polypropylene waxes, or mixtures of two or more of any of these waxes. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a wax component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl esters.
[0103] In some embodiments, the composition comprises one or more fatty compounds chosen from oils of animal, vegetable, or mineral origin (e.g. lanolin, squalene, fish oil, perhydrosqualene, mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor seed oil, jojoba seed oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, cucumber oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, calophyllum oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, candlenut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, or shea butter), linear or branched hydrocarbons (e.g. polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene, or also linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes which are optionally volatile, such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane, or isohexadecane), mono- and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols (e.g. mono- and polyesters of hydroxy acids and of fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and of fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, dipentaerythrityl C5-C9 esters, trimethylolpropane polyesters, propylene glycol polyesters, or polyesters of hydrogenated castor oil), perfluorinated and / or organofluorinated oils, fluorosilicone oils, or mixtures of two or more thereof. Nonlimiting examples of fatty acids that may be used include optionally branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid, or mixtures of two or more thereof.
[0104] If present, the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition may range from about 0.1 % to about 20%, such as from about 1 % to about 20%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, or from about 5% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one fatty compound chosen from silicone oils, fatty alcohols, waxes, or combinations thereof, where the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition ranges from about 1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 15%, more preferably from about 3% to about 12%, and most preferably from about 5% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening Agents
[0105] Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure optionally comprise at least one thickening agent. Useful thickening agents include, but are not limited to, semisynthetic polymers, such as semisynthetic cellulose derivatives, synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers, and acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates copolymer, polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEI-10), naturally occurring polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan, vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, petroleum jelly, waxes, particulate associate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide, and microcrystalline cellulose, celluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, and guars such as hydroxypropyl guar.
[0106] In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be chosen from associative thickening polymers such as anionic associative polymers, amphoteric associative polymers, cationic associative polymers, or nonionic associative polymers. A non-limiting example of an amphoteric associative polymer is acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, and non-limiting examples of anionic associative polymers include acrylates copolymer and acrylates crosspolymer-4.
[0107] If present, the total amount of thickening agents may range from about 0.01 % to about 8%, such as from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.1 % to about 4%, from about 0.2% to about 3%, or from about 0.3% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0108] Direct Dyes
[0109] Optionally, compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise one or more direct dyes. Direct dyes, which are different than oxidation dyes, diffuse superficially onto the hair fibers.
[0110] Direct dyes that can be chosen include natural and synthetic direct dyes, which may be cationic, anionic, or nonionic. Useful examples of direct dyes include azo direct dyes, (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines, and styryls, carbonyl dyes, azine dyes, nitro(hetero)aryl dyes, tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes, porphyrin dyes, phthalocyanine dyes, xanthene direct dyes, triarylmethane dyes, natural direct dyes, and combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the direct dyes are chosen from those that comprise at least one halogenated aromatic ring. In some embodiments, direct dyes are selected from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes are also called “acidic” direct dyes due to their affinity with alkaline substances. Anionic direct dyes may be selected from acid nitrate direct dyes, acid azo dyes, acid azinic dyes, acid triarylmethanic dyes, acid indoaminic dyes, acid anthraquinone dyes, indigoids, natural acid dyes, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0111] Non-limiting examples of anionic direct dyes include Acid Red 1 , Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41 , Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1 , Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3, Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1 , Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1 , Food Black 2, Food yellow 3 or sunset yellow, Acid Red 111 , Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38, or combinations of two or more thereof. As further examples, azo anionic dyes such as Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and Acid Yellow 17; anthraquinone dyes such as Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251 , Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41 , Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3, Purple EXT No. 2, and Acid Black 48; anthraquinone dyes such as Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251 , Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41 , Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3, Purple EXT No. 2, and Acid Black 48; triarylmethane dyes such as Acid Blue
[0112] 1 , Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Violet 49, Acid green 3, Acid green 5, and Acid Green 50; dyes derived from xanthene such as Acid Yellow 73, Acid Red 51 , Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, and Acid Violet 9; dyes derived from indole such as Acid Blue 74; and dyes derived from quinoline such as Acid Yellow
[0113] 2, Acid Yellow 3, and Acid Yellow 5, or combinations of two or more thereof, may be chosen.
[0114] Nonlimiting examples of cationic direct dyes, also called “basic” direct dyes, include Basic Red 51 , Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 , Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41 , Basic Blue 99, Basic Violet 1 , Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0115] Among the natural direct dyes, non-limiting mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, or combinations of two or more thereof. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts may also be used.
[0116] According to some embodiments, the ionic direct dye(s) are chosen from blue or violet dyes such as Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251 , Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43 (also called EXT violet No. 2), Acid Blue 1 , Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 9, Acid Blue 74, Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41 , Basic Blue 99, Basic Violet 1 , Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably Ext. Violet 2, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 9 and Basic Violet 2, more preferentially Ext. Violet 2, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 9, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0117] If present, the total amount of direct dyes may range from about 0.001 % to about 10%, such as from about 0.001 % to about 5%, from about 0.001 % to about 3%, from about 0.001 % to about 2%, from about 0.001 % to about 1 %, from about 0.005% to about 5%, from about 0.005% to about 3%, from about 0.005% to about 2%, from about 0.005% to about 1 %, from about 0.01 % to about 5%, from about 0.01 % to about 3%, from about 0.01 % to about 2%, or from about 0.01 % to about 1 %, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0118] Auxiliary Components
[0119] Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure may optionally include one or more auxiliary components. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, ceramides, botanical extracts, proteins, protein hydrolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescent agents, buffers, sequestering agents, and the like.
[0120] The total amount of auxiliary components, if present, typically ranges from about 0.01 % to about 10% based on the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments the individual amounts of each component or the total amount of components may range from about 0.1 % to about 10%, about 0.1 % to about 8%, about 0.1 % to about 5%, about 0.1 % to about 4%, about 0.1 % to about 3%, about 0.1 % to about 2%, about 1 % to about 10%, about 1 % to about 8%, about 1 % to about 5%, about 1 % to about 4%, about 1 % to about 3%, or about 1 % to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0121] Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure typically have a pH of less than or equal to 7, such as less than or equal to about 6, less than or equal to about 5, less than or equal to about 4.5, or less than or equal to about 4. For example, the compositions may have a pH ranging from about 1 to about 7, such as from about 2 to about 6, from about 2.5 to about 5.5, from about 2.5 to about 5, from about 2.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3 to about 4. In some embodiments, the pH of the composition may be, for example, about 3, about 3.25, about 3.5, about 3.75, or about 4, including all ranges and subranges thereof.
[0122] The compositions may be in any suitable form. For example, the compositions may be a liquid, a gel, a gel cream, a high-, medium- or low-density cream, a serum, a lotion, etc.
[0123] II. METHODS
[0124] The disclosure further relates to methods of treating keratin fibers, such as hair. Surprisingly, color-treated hair treated according to the disclosure exhibits reduced color fading after exposure to external influences. While not intending to be bound by theory, it is believed that the enhanced reduction in color fading is due to unexpectedly synergistic effects of the combination of amino acids, osmolytes, and carboxylic acids, which has not previously been known.
[0125] The methods comprise applying a composition according to the disclosure onto the hair (also called an “antifading composition”), optionally leaving the antifading composition on the hair for a period of time (“processing time” or “leaving-in period” or “resting period”), and optionally rinsing the composition from the hair.
[0126] The leave-in period may last for a period of time deemed appropriate to allow the active agents to provide benefits to the keratin fibers, such as about 30 seconds, about 1 minute, about 2 minutes, about 5 minutes, about 10 minutes, about 15 minutes, about 20 minutes, about 30 minutes, about 45 minutes, about 1 hour, about 2 hours, about 4 hours, about 6 hours, about 8 hours, about 10 hours, about 12 hours, about 16 hours, about 20 hours, about 24 hours, etc., or may range from a period of time using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits. By way of nonlimiting example, the leave-in period may range from about 2 minutes to about 4 hours, from about 5 minutes to about 2 hours, from about 10 minutes to about 1 .5 hours, from about 20 minutes to about 1 hour, from about 1 hour to about 12 hours, from about 2 hours to about 10 hours, from about 4 hours to about 8 hours, from about 8 hours to about 24 hours, from about 8 hours to about 12 hours, etc. For example, a leave-in time may be overnight, or may be until the hair is next rinsed or shampooed in the user’s ordinary course of hygiene. By way of non-limiting example, the leave-in period may alternatively range from about 30 seconds to about 60 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 45 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 30 minutes, from about
[0127] 30 seconds to about 20 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 15 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 10 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 5 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 45 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 30 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 20 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 15 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 10 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 5 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 60 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 45 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 30 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 20 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 15 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 10 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 5 minutes, etc.
[0128] Methods according to the disclosure include use of the compositions described as a standalone treatment, or as part of a routine that includes one or more additional compositions or treatments. Although not required, various treatments using compositions according to the disclosure may also include a step of heating the hair to which the composition has been applied, for example during the resting period while the composition is on the hair. For example, a blow dryer, hood dryer, etc., may be used.
[0129] By way of example, a composition according to the disclosure may be applied to hair in order to reduce color fading by applying an effective amount of the composition to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for a suitable processing time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then optionally drying and / or styling the hair according to the individual’s normal course. This type of treatment may, for example, be performed in a salon or at home on a weekly, bi-weekly, monthly, etc. basis, in order to improve the health and overall appearance of the hair.
[0130] In other exemplary embodiments, a composition according to the disclosure may be applied to hair before, during, and / or after a treatment process that includes one or more other hair compositions. For example, one such routine may include applying a composition according to the disclosure to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for a suitable processing time, and then substantially immediately thereafter (i.e. within the same hair cleansing process), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, shampooing the hair according to the individual’s normal hair cleansing routine. Another such routine may include shampooing the hair according to the individual’s normal hair cleansing routine, and substantially immediately thereafter (i.e., within the same hair cleansing process), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying a composition according to the disclosure to the hair, optionally before and / or after a conditioning composition is applied to the hair. Yet another such routine may include conditioning the hair, for example a deep conditioning treatment, and substantially immediately before and / or after (i.e. within the same hair conditioning process), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying a composition according to the disclosure to the hair, optionally with or without rinsing the hair between steps of applying a conditioning composition and a composition according to the disclosure to the hair. Thus, it is contemplated that compositions according to the disclosure may be incorporated into a hair cleansing and / or conditioning process.
[0131] In still further exemplary embodiments, a composition according to the disclosure may be applied to hair before, during, and / or after a chemical hair treatment process. For example, one such routine may include applying a composition according to the disclosure to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for a suitable processing time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then substantially immediately thereafter (i.e. within the same chemical hair treatment process), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing, or permanent waving composition to the hair. Another such routine may include applying a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing, or permanent waving composition to the hair, and substantially immediately thereafter (i.e., within the same chemical hair treatment process), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying a composition according to the disclosure to the hair, and optionally applying a composition according to the disclosure to the hair before or after one or more subsequent shampooings. Thus, it is contemplated that compositions according to the disclosure may be incorporated into a chemical hair treatment process, either before or after the process, thereby reducing or minimizing color fading to the hair that would otherwise be expected to result from subsequent external influences.
[0132] Surprisingly, color-treated hair treated with compositions and methods according to the disclosure had less color fading than color-treated hair that was not treated with compositions and methods according to the disclosure. The reduction in color-fading was particularly notable in hair that has been exposed to external influences such as harsh chemical treatments such as permanent waving, straightening, relaxing, etc., as well as due to repeated styling such as with heat or styling tools.
[0133] Having described the many embodiments of the present invention in detail, it will be apparent that modifications and variations are possible without departing from the scope of the disclosure defined in the appended claims. Furthermore, it should be appreciated that all examples in the present disclosure, while illustrating many embodiments of the disclosure, are provided as non-limiting examples and are, therefore, not to be taken as limiting the various aspects so illustrated. It is to be understood that all definitions herein are provided for the present disclosure only.
[0134] In this application, the use of the singular includes the plural unless specifically stated otherwise. The singular forms “a,” “an,” “the,” and “at least one” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations. Likewise, the term “a salt thereof” also relates to “salts thereof.” Thus, where the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof,” it indicates that that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, or a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.
[0135] The term “and / or” should be understood to include both the conjunctive and the disjunctive. For example, “amino acids and / or salts thereof’ means “amino acids and salts thereof” as well as “amino acids or salts thereof,” and expressly covers instances of either.
[0136] As used herein, the term “salts” referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is non-limiting. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, e.g., in an aqueous solution.
[0137] As used herein, the phrases “and mixtures thereof,” “and mixtures of two or more thereof,” “and a mixture thereof,” “and combinations thereof,” “and a combination thereof,” and combinations of two or more thereof,” “and a combination of two or more thereof,” “or mixtures thereof,” “or a mixture thereof,” “or combinations thereof,” “or combinations of two or more thereof,” “or a combination thereof,” and the like are used interchangeably to denote that the listing of components immediately preceding the phrase, such as “A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof” signify that the component(s) may be chosen from A, from B, from C, from D, from A+B, from A+B+C, from A+D, from A+C+D, etc., without limitation on the variations thereof. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any combination thereof.
[0138] For purposes of the present disclosure, it should be noted that to provide a more concise description, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified with the term “about.” It is understood that whether the term “about” is used explicitly or not, every quantity given herein is meant to refer to the actual given value, and it is also meant to refer to the approximation to such given value that would reasonably be inferred based on the ordinary skill in the art, including approximations due to the experimental and / or measurement conditions for such given value, unless otherwise stated.
[0139] All ranges and amounts given herein are intended to include sub-ranges and amounts using any disclosed point as an end point, and all endpoints are intended to be included unless expressly stated otherwise. Thus, a range of “1 % to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%,” is intended to encompass ranges of “1 % to 8%,” “1 % to 5%,” “2% to 10%,” and so on. All numbers, amounts, ranges, etc., are intended to be modified by the term “about,” whether or not expressly stated, unless expressly stated otherwise. Similarly, a range given of “about 1 % to 10%” is intended to have the term “about” modifying both the 1 % and the 10% endpoints. The term “about” is used herein to indicate a difference of up to + / - 10% from the stated number, such as + / - 9%, + / - 8%, + / - 7%, + / - 6%, + / - 5%, + / - 4%, + / - 3%, + / - 2%, or + / - 1 %. Unless expressly stated otherwise, “about” means + / - 5%. Likewise, all endpoints of ranges are understood to be individually disclosed, such that, for example, a range of 1 :2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose a ratio of both 1 :2 and 2:1 . As used herein, if a component is described as being present “in an amount up to” a certain amount, it is intended that such component is, in fact, present in the composition, i.e. , is present in an amount greater than 0%.
[0140] All amounts given herein are relative to the amount of active material, unless otherwise indicated.
[0141] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.
[0142] As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
[0143] In this application, the terms “keratin fibers” and “hair” are used interchangeably, without intending to be limiting. A person skilled in the art will understand that keratin fibers include hair, such as hair that grows from the scalp.
[0144] As used herein, the phrase “applying a composition onto hair” and variations thereof are intended to mean contacting the hair with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner. It may also mean contacting the hair in an effective amount. In one embodiment, an effective amount is the amount of antifading composition effective to reduce the color fading of color-treated hair, where such amount may include from about 0.01 g to about 1 g, or about 0.01 g to about 0.9 g, or about 0.01 g to about 0.8 g, or about 0.01 g to about 0.7 g, or about 0.01 g to about 0.6 g, or about 0.01 g to about 0.5 g, or about 0.01 g to about 0.4 g, or about 0.01 g to about .3 g, or about 0.01 g to about .2 g, or about 0.01 g to about 0.1 g, or about 0.1 g to about 1 g, or about 0.1 g to about 0.9 g, or about 0.1 g to about 0.8 g, or about 0.1 g to about 0.7 g, or about 0.1 g to about 0.6 g, or about 0.1 g to about 0.5 g, or about 0.1 g to about 0.4 g, or about 0.1 g to about .3 g, or about 0.1 g to about .2 g, or about 0.01 g to about 0.1 g, or about 0.2 g to about 1 g, or about 0.2 g to about 0.9 g, or about 0.2 g to about 0.8 g, or about 0.2 g to about 0.7 g, or about 0.2 g to about 0.6 g, or about 0.2 g to about 0.5 g, or about 0.2 g to about 0.4 g, or about 0.2 g to about .3 g, or about 0.3 g to about 1 g, or about 0.3 g to about 0.9 g, or about 0.3 g to about 0.8 g, or about 0.3 g to about 0.7 g, or about 0.3 g to about 0.6 g, or about 0.3 g to about 0.5 g, or about 0.3 g to about 0.4 g, or about 0.4 g to about 1 g, or about 0.4 g to about 0.9 g, or about 0.4 g to about 0.8 g, or about 0.4 g to about 0.7 g, or about 0.4 g to about 0.6 g, or about 0.4 g to about 0.5 g, or about 0.5 g to about 1 g, or about 0.5 g to about 0.9 g, or about 0.5 g to about 0.8 g, or about 0.5 g to about 0.7 g, or about 0.5 g to about 0.6 g of antifading composition per 1 g of hair.
[0145] The term “treating hair” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of hair. The term “treating hair” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting hair with the compositions of the present disclosure.
[0146] Unless otherwise defined for any specific embodiment, the term “substantially free” or “essentially free” as used herein means that there is less than about 10% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the compositions may include less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1 %, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1 %, less than about 0.01 %, less than about 0.001 %, or less than about 0.0001 % of the specified material. As such, it is contemplated that any component described herein for use in the hair treatment compositions can be present in the compositions in amounts less than about 5%, less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1 %, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1 %, less than about 0.01 %, less than about 0.001 %, or less than about 0.0001 %, and the composition will be considered “substantially free” of such material. A composition that is “free” of a component is understood to contain none of the specified component. However, it is understood that the terms “free” and “substantially free” refer to the amount of a component added to the composition, without including an amount of the component present in the composition as a minor component in a raw material. For example, a composition that is “free” of waxes may not have wax included as an intended component but may nevertheless contain a pigment that is coated with a wax, as such wax would be considered a minor component of the pigment material and would not be expected to provide benefits to the composition that would be expected by including a wax per se as an intended component.
[0147] Unless otherwise expressly stated, it is in no way intended that any method set forth herein be construed as requiring that its steps be performed in a specific order. Accordingly, where a method claim does not expressly recite an order to be followed by its steps or it is not specifically stated in the claims or descriptions that the steps are to be limited to a specific order, it not intended that any particular order be inferred. The examples that follow serve to illustrate embodiments of the present disclosure without, however, being limiting in nature. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations can be made in the compositions and methods of the invention without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Thus, it is intended that the present disclosure covers the modifications and variations that come within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents.
[0148] EXAMPLES
[0149] The following Examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory in nature only. In the Examples, amounts are expressed in percentage by weight (wt%) of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.
[0150] Example 1 - Compositions
[0151] Compositions 1A-1 C according to the disclosure were prepared as shown in Table 1 . TABLE 1
[0152] The compositions of Table 1 contained a synergistic combination of components: carboxylic acids (citric and / or lactic acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine), and amino acids (arginine and / or serine). Example 2 - Evaluation of Color Fading
[0153] In order to evaluate the ability of compositions according to the disclosure to minimize or prevent the color fading of chemically treated hair, the following studies were conducted.
[0154] Example 2A - Bleached Hair
[0155] Six swatches (S1 -S6) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleach powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1 :1.5 (bleach powderoxidizing composition) and processed at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The swatches were rinsed.
[0156] The six swatches (S1 -S6) were cleansed with a purifying shampoo by wetting the swatches, applying the shampoo to the swatches (about 0.4 g of shampoo for 1 g of hair), lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatches for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatches until all shampoo was removed. All swatches were dried at room temperature.
[0157] Swatches S1 -S3 (untreated) were then fully submerged into a beaker containing deionized water, while swatches S4-S6 (treated) were fully submerged into a separate beaker containing 13.6 wt. % of the osmolyte-acid mixture of Composition 1A in deionized water. The swatches remained in their respective beakers for about five minutes. The swatches were then removed, and as shown in FIG. 1 , the color of the water in which swatches S1 -S3 (untreated) were submerged significantly changed, but the color of the water in which swatches S4-S6 (treated) were submerged did not have a significant change. The water in the beaker containing the untreated swatches (S1 -S3) was yellow and opaque. By contrast, the water in the beaker containing the treated swatches (S4-S6) was transparent, translucent, and not yellow. This showed that the inventive composition of the present invention decreased the color fading of bleached hair.
[0158] Example 2B - Color Treated Hair
[0159] Six swatches (S10-S15) of Caucasian gray hair (90:10 gray: brunette), were dyed using a red Cor & Ton hair dye (Shade 7.44) that is commercially available from L’Oreal in accordance with the product’s instructions. The swatches were then rinsed and subjected to the following treatment routines. Swatches S10-S15 were each cleansed with a purifying shampoo by wetting each swatch, applying the shampoo to each swatch (about 0.4 g of shampoo for 1 g of hair), lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on each swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing each swatch until all shampoo was removed. The swatches were then dried at room temperature.
[0160] An image of each swatch was taken using a Colorshot spectrophotometer. The color of each swatch was then measured by the spectrophotometer in pixels according to the following axes: L (white / Black); b (Yellow / Blue); a (Red / Green); the spectrophotometer generated a numeric value for each swatch.
[0161] Immediately, Composition 1 C (Table 1 ) was applied to swatches S10- S12 (untreated) (about 0.4 g of Composition 1 C for 1 g of hair) and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatches were thoroughly rinsed with water. Composition 1 B (Table 1 ) was similarly applied to swatches S13-S15 (treated) (about 0.4 g of Composition 1 B for 1 g of hair). After five minutes, the swatches (S13-S15) were rinsed with water.
[0162] All of the swatches (S10-S15) were then exposed to UV light in a UV light chamber set at 765 watts / m2for 150 minutes.
[0163] Another image of each swatch (S10-S15) was then taken, and the data was obtained for each using the procedure above. Afterwards, the average percent of color fading of swatches was calculated based upon the differences between the numeric values generated by the spectrophotometer before and after exposure to UV light.
[0164] As shown in FIG. 2, swatches S10-S12 (untreated) experienced an 8% average color fading while swatches S13-S15 (treated) experienced only about a 1 % average color fading. This showed that the inventive composition of the present invention decreased the color fading of dyed hair by 84% when exposed to UV light, which is equivalent to about 1 week of UV daily exposure.
[0165] Example 2C - Shampooing Color Treated Hair
[0166] After the exposure to UV light as set forth in Example 2B, all of the swatches (S10 - S15) were each cleansed with a cleansing shampoo by wetting each swatch, applying the shampoo to each swatch (about 0.4 g of shampoo for 1 g of hair), lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on each swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing each swatch until all shampoo was removed. This step was repeated 15 times, and then an image of each swatch was obtained using the procedure of Example 2B.
[0167] As shown in FIG. 2, swatches S10-S12 (untreated) experienced a 12 % average fading while swatches S13-S15 (treated) experienced less than about a 1 % average color fading. This showed that the inventive composition of the present invention decreased the color fading of color-treated hair by 91 % when exposed to UV light, which is equivalent to about 1 week of UV daily exposure, followed by 15 shampoos, which is equal to about 1 to two weeks of shampooing. This also showed that the inventive composition may be applied once a week or once every two weeks to minimize the color fading of hair.
[0168] Example 3 - Prevention of Color Fading on Permed hair
[0169] In order to evaluate the ability of compositions according to the disclosure to minimize or prevent the color fading of permed hair, the following studies were conducted.
[0170] Six swatches (S106-S111 ) of Chinese white hair (1 g, 20 cm) were permed with a composition prepared by applying and distributing a first agent (Premia Wave reducing lotion available from L’Oreal Professionnel) to the swatches so that all of the hair is coated, then after 15 minutes, the hair was rinsed with water. Next, a second agent (Premia Wave neutralizer available from L’Oreal Professionnel) was similarly applied, then rinsed from the swatches. The swatches were air dried at room temperature.
[0171] Six of the swatches (S106-S111 ) were dyed using a red Majifashion hair dye (Shade 6.66) available from L’Oreal Professionnel in accordance with the product’s instructions; the dye was mixed with a 20volume developer at a 1 :1.5 colordeveloper mixing ratio. After the swatches were rinsed, each swatch was cleansed with a cleansing shampoo by wetting each swatch, applying the shampoo to each swatch (about 0.4 g of shampoo for 1 g of hair), lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on each swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing each swatch until all shampoo was removed. The swatches were then dried at room temperature.
[0172] The swatches were then measured for color in accordance with the imaging procedure in Example 2B, and then subjected to the following treatment routines. Three of the red-dyed swatches (S106 — S108) were treated with water and three of the red-dyed swatches (S109-S111 ) were treated with water then treated with Composition 1A (Table 1 ), which was applied to these swatches (about 0.4 g of Composition 1 A for 1 g of hair), distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, and allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes.
[0173] The swatches (S106-S111 ) were then washed with a cleansing shampoo (about 0.4 g of shampoo for 1 g of hair), thoroughly rinsed with water, then blow-dried. The swatches (S106-S111 ) were again washed with this shampoo (about 0.4 g of shampoo for 1 g of hair), thoroughly rinsed with water, blow-dried, and then measured for color in accordance with the imaging procedure in Example 2B. The swatches (S106-S111 ) were washed for a third time with this shampoo (about 0.4 g of shampoo for 1 g of hair), thoroughly rinsed with water, then blow-dried, and then measured for color in accordance with the imaging procedure in Example 2B. The swatches (S106- S111 ) were washed for a fourth time with this shampoo (about 0.4 g of shampoo for 1 g of hair), thoroughly rinsed with water, and then blow-dried, and then the swatches were measured for color in accordance with the imaging procedure in Example 2B.
[0174] As shown in FIG.3, permed hair dyed with red dye that was treated with the inventive composition presented less color fading than untreated, permed hair dyed with red dye as of the first wash and through at least the seventh wash.
[0175] Example 4 - Compositions
[0176] Compositions 4A-4E according to the disclosure were prepared as shown in Table 2.
[0177] TABLE 2
[0178] The compositions contained a synergistic combination of components: carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine), and amino acids (arginine).
[0179] Example 5 - Compositions
[0180] Compositions 5A-5D according to the disclosure were prepared as shown in Table 3.
[0181] TABLE 3
[0182] Compositions 5A-5D, which contained a synergistic combination of components (carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine), and amino acids (arginine)), are expected to minimize and / or prevent the color fading of color- treated hair.
[0183] Example 6 - Additional Compositions
[0184] The following compositions according to the disclosure can be prepared, and are expected to similarly minimize color fading of hair.
[0185] TABLE 4
[0186] The above examples demonstrate that the compositions and methods according to the disclosure surprisingly and unexpectedly prevent color fading of hair after exposure to external influences, including UV, water, and / or other energetic stresses, such as heat, humidity, and the like.
Claims
SET OF CLAIMS1. A method for reducing color fading in color-treated hair, comprising: a) applying an antifading composition to hair, comprising: i) at least one compound chosen from amino acids or salts thereof; ii) at least one osmolyte; and iii) at least one compound chosen from carboxylic acids or salts thereof; and b) optionally rinsing the hair.
2. The method of claim 1 , wherein the antifading composition optionally comprises a solvent, and wherein the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof is at least about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. The method of claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the total amount of osmolytes is at least about 0.5% by weight and the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof is at least about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7.
4. The method of anyone of claims 1 to 3, wherein the antifading composition comprises a) at least one amino acid chosen from compounds of formula (I) or salts thereof:COOKwherein:- p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and- when p = 1 , R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1 -C4)alkyl; or- when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear, or branched (C1 -C12)alkyl group, preferably a (C1 -C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH-, or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (- NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.
5. The method of anyone of claims 1 to 4, wherein the antifading composition comprises a) at least one amino acid chosen from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.
6. The method of any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising b) at least one osmolyte chosen from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, betaines, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably comprising at least one betaine chosen from compounds of formula (II) or salts thereof:(R1 )(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)n-Y-(H) wherein:- R1 , R2, and R3 are independently chosen from C1 -C4 alkyl groups;- A is N or S;- m and n are independently 0 or 1 ;- X is a divalent C1 -C6 alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); and- Y’ is -COO- or -OSO3-; with the provisos that: o when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), (C1 -C10) hydrocarbon chain, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), - SH, -COOH, or -CONH2; o when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear, or branched (C1 -C8)alkyl, and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1 -C4)alkyl; and o when A is N and m = 1 , then R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains) (C1 -C10) hydrocarbonchain, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), - SH, -COOH, or -CONH2.
7. The method of any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the antifading composition comprises a) at least one basic amino carboxylic acid and b) at least one betaine.
8. The method of any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the antifading composition comprises b) at least one osmolyte chosen from carbohydrate sugars, preferably from C3-C6 monosaccharides, more preferably from pentoses, hexoses, derivatives thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.
9. The method of any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the antifading composition comprises b) at least one polyamine chosen from diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, or combinations of two or more thereof.
10. The method of any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the antifading composition comprises b) at least one compound of formula (II) chosen from zwitterionic amino acid derivatives bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
11. The method of any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the antifading composition comprises b) at least one compound of formula (II) chosen from valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine, histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably comprising glycine betaine.
12. The method of any one of claims 1 to 11 , wherein the antifading composition comprises b) at least one compound of formula (II), wherein:R1 and R2 are methyl;A is N; and / orY is COO-.
13. The method of any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the antifading composition comprises c) at least one compound chosen from formic acid, acetic acid,propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1 ,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.
14. The method of any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof ranges from about 2% to about 15%, preferably from about 2.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 3.5% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the antifading composition.
15. The method of any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the total amount of osmolytes ranges from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1 % to about 8%, more preferably from about 1 % to about 5%, and most preferably from about 1 .5% to about 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the antifading composition.
16. The method of any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof ranges from about 3% to about 15%, preferably from about 3% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. The method of any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to about 6, preferably from about 2.5 to about 5, more preferably from about 2.5 to about 4.5, and most preferably from about 3 to about 4.
18. The method of any one of claims 1 to 17, wherein the solvent comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably chosen from polyols.
19. The method of any one of claims 1 to 18, wherein the antifading composition comprises: a) at least one compound chosen from arginine or salts thereof; b) glycine betaine or a salt thereof; c) at least one compound chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, or salts thereof; d) water; and e) optionally at least one compound chosen from serine or salts thereof.
19. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 17 further comprising at least one additional component chosen from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations of two or more thereof.
20. A method for reducing color fading in color-treated hair comprising:(i) applying an antifading composition to hair, comprising: a) at least one compound chosen from basic amino acids or salts thereof; b) at least one osmolyte chosen from compounds of formula (II) or salts thereof:(R1 )(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)n-Y-(H) wherein:- R1 , R2, and R3 are independently chosen from C1 -C4 alkyl groups;- A is N or S;- m and n are independently 0 or 1 ;- X is a divalent C1 -C6 alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); and- Y’ is -COO- or -OSO3-; with the provisos that: o when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), (C1 -C10) hydrocarbon chain, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, - NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, - COOH, or-CONH2; o when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear, or branched (C1 -C8)alkyl, and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocyclecomprising from 5 to 8 ring members, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1 -C4)alkyl; and o when A is N and m = 1 , then R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains) (C1 -C10) hydrocarbon chain, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, - NH-, or-C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, - COOH, or-CONH2; c) at least one compound chosen from carboxylic acids or salts thereof; and d) water and optionally at least one polyol; and(ii) optionally rinsing the hair.21 . The method of claim 20, wherein the antifading composition is left on the keratin fibers for a leave-in period of time ranging from about 30 seconds to about 60 minutes, preferably from about 30 seconds to about 30 minutes, more preferably from about 30 seconds to about 15 minutes, and most preferably from about 2 minutes to about 10 minutes, and the keratin fibers are rinsed after the leave-in period of time.
22. The method of claim 20 or claim 21 , further comprising:(iii) shampooing and / or conditioning the keratin fibers before and / or after steps (i) and / or (ii).
23. The method of any one of claims 20 to 22, which is a method of reducing color fading in color-treated hair that is exposed to at least one external influence: UV light, shampooing, water, humidity, permanent waving, relaxing, blow- drying, flat ironing, or chemical straightening.
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