Method for reusing cananga odorata plant waste, and cananga odorata extract

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for reusing Cananga odorata waste to obtain a Cananga odorata extract, the method comprising a first step of solid / liquid extraction carried out on the plant waste using an extraction solvent, followed by a second step of solid / liquid separation and a third step of recovering the liquid phase constituting the extract, the extraction solvent being anhydrous and non-apolar. The invention also relates to the use of the extract for the cosmetic treatment of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising the extract.

Description

[0001] Description

[0002] Title: PROCESS FOR THE VALORIZATION OF CANANGA ODORATA PLANT WASTE AND CANANGA ODORATA EXTRACT

[0003] technical field

[0004] The invention relates to a process for valorizing Cananga odorata waste to obtain a Cananga odorata extract. It also relates to a Cananga odorata extract, the use of said extract for the cosmetic treatment of the skin and / or mucous membranes, as well as a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising said extract.

[0005] Previous technique

[0006] Life on Earth follows a 24-hour rhythm largely determined by the daily oscillations of light, caused by the Earth's axial rotation. It is now well established that our bodies respond to day / night cycles known as circadian rhythms. This multi-oscillatory network allows our bodies to adapt to environmental changes and adjust our internal clocks accordingly.

[0007] The central clock that regulates the 24-hour cycle throughout our body is located in the hypothalamus in the brain. This area of ​​the brain responds to light received through the retina of the eye. The central clock communicates this synchronizing information to peripheral organs and tissues via neural and hormonal signals. Similar, so-called peripheral clocks have been discovered within the cells of almost all tissues, including skin.

[0008] Indeed, skin cells, particularly keratinocytes, melanocytes, and fibroblasts, also possess an independent circadian clock system, which consequently regulates the overall homeostasis of human skin tissue. These peripheral clocks function in the same way as the central clock, by regulating cell activity through the expression of clock genes that control and synchronize molecular and cellular mechanisms according to the day / night cycle. Thus, our skin experiences different phases in rhythm with the day / night cycle: the activation of these clock genes allows the skin to prepare for, react to, and adapt to the daily changes in the external environment.

[0009] The skin is naturally exposed to daily changes, including temperature, light, humidity, and UV rays, due to its role as an interface between the body and the external environment. The skin's circadian clock responds to daily fluctuations and adjusts the periodicity of skin functions: hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), keratinocyte proliferation rate, capillary blood flow, sebum production, temperature, surface pH, and facial wrinkles in humans.

[0010] In the skin, clock genes control and synchronize cellular activities such as DNA damage repair, cell proliferation, cell cycle, apoptosis, and metabolism.

[0011] This chronobiological phenomenon shows that during the day, most cellular energy is used to protect the skin, while at night, most of the energy is used to restore, repair, regenerate, and prepare skin cells. Cellular activity is much greater at night, with cells multiplying intensely and a higher metabolism (peak cell division around 1 a.m.).

[0012] Cellular aging processes are closely linked to an imbalance in the pro- and antioxidant balance that develops gradually with age, related to a dysfunction of the circadian clock. Several studies have shown differences in protein oxidation at different times of day, indicating altered sensitivity to oxidative stress depending on the circadian clock. The circadian clock plays a vital role in maintaining reactive oxygen species (ROS) at normal levels and protecting cells and tissues from oxidative damage. In particular, the central molecular clock protein BmaH not only regulates the circadian rhythm but also plays a role in redox homeostasis and enhancing cell survival under oxidative conditions. There is evidence of a role for BmaH in regulating ROS in several tissue types (pancreas, brain, skin).The overall suppression of BmaH produces an accelerated aging phenotype, which is a consequence of increased oxidative stress.

[0013] Given the potentially harmful effects of reactive oxygen species (ROS), antioxidants are produced to inhibit the oxidation of biological molecules and balance the oxidative state of cells. The transcription factor Nrf2 plays a major role in regulating the expression of antioxidant proteins, protecting cells against oxidative damage triggered by injury or inflammation. Under normal conditions, Nrf2 is tightly bound to Keapl in the cytoplasm and has a very short lifespan of 10 to 30 minutes (degradation by the proteasome). Under stress, as ROS levels increase, Nrf2 dissociates from Keapl and translocates to the nucleus. In the nucleus, Nrf2 binds to the antioxidant response element (ARE) and thus controls antioxidant capacity.

[0014] The Nrf2 antioxidant pathway is regulated by the circadian clock. Several studies demonstrate the direct role of BmaH in regulating Nrf2 to control antioxidant and anti-inflammatory responses. Indeed, BmaH binds to the Nrf2 / ARE promoter via the E-Box element, thereby regulating the rhythmic activation of the Nrf2 transcription factor. BmaH suppression decreases the Nrf2 response and leads to an accumulation of ROS and increased production of pro-inflammatory cytokines. The interaction of circadian components with antioxidant pathways via Nrf2 plays a crucial role in a large number of ROS-induced diseases. Conversely, cells that overexpress BmaH have shown increased levels of mRNA for the antioxidant enzymes NQO1, SOD, GPX, and Nrf2, and this expression is closely linked to a decrease in ROS.This interconnected loop between BmaH and Nrf2 has also been demonstrated in the epidermis, particularly in a culture of human keratinocytes exposed to ozone.

[0015] Thus, we have seen that day / night cycles, known as circadian rhythms, allow our bodies to adapt to environmental changes and adjust our internal clocks accordingly. These clocks are present in almost all tissues, including skin. They regulate cell activity through the expression of clock genes that control and synchronize molecular and cellular mechanisms according to the day / night cycles. During cellular aging, an imbalance in the pro- and antioxidant balance develops in relation to a dysfunction of the circadian clock. The global suppression of the central molecular clock protein BmaH reduces the response of the Nrf2 antioxidant pathway, which is a consequence of increased oxidative stress and an accelerated aging phenotype.

[0016] The skin's protective mechanisms become dysregulated during both intrinsic and extrinsic aging. These protective mechanisms are primarily activated at night, in parallel with the cell's biological clock (activation of the "night clock" genes BMAL1 and CLOCK). Thanks to the activation of these nocturnal protective mechanisms, such as the stimulation of the Nrf2 antioxidant pathway and the activation of transcription of genes encoding antioxidant enzymes, the cell is able to cope with daytime environmental stress, namely photopollution, to protect its proteome from oxidation and carbonylation. Therefore, it is important to take action both day and night for optimal skin tissue protection.

[0017] A first problem that the invention aims to solve is to provide an active ingredient that stimulates the skin's nocturnal and diurnal protection mechanisms against aggressions and skin aging.

[0018] There are many active ingredients that can protect the skin, including products derived from the Ylang-Ylang flower (Cananga odorata), which are particularly known for their beneficial effect against skin aging.

[0019] Ylang-Ylang (Cananga odorata), whose name means "flower of flowers", is a species belonging to the Annonaceae family, native to the humid forests of Southeast Asia.

[0020] It is a fast-growing tree, reaching 25 to 30 meters in height in its wild, native habitat. Its bark is gray, and its evergreen leaves are alternate, lanceolate, and without stipules, and are bright green. Its flowers, borne in the leaf axils or clustered in cymes, consist of three valved sepals and six drooping, strap-like petals. They are initially white, then turn green, and finally become yellow. Their base turns red when the flower matures, at which point it is very fragrant. Flowering occurs throughout the year, but is particularly abundant during the warm, humid season (December to April / May). The fruits, composed of ovoid mericarps, have black carpels.

[0021] Today, ylang-ylang is primarily cultivated in the islands of the Indian Ocean (Comoros, Madagascar, Mayotte) for its flowers, which contain an essential oil highly prized in the perfume, health, and cosmetic industries. Once fully ripe, the flowers are harvested by hand between dusk and dawn, when their fragrance is at its peak.

[0022] Ylang-ylang is a plant widely used throughout the world in the form of essential oil extracted from its flowers. This essential oil is obtained through hydrodistillation or, more commonly, steam distillation of freshly picked flowers. For example, documents "Cosmetic composition containing Ylang extract" and CN 106244 332 describe processes for extracting essential oil from ylang-ylang flowers. The plant residue resulting from the hydrodistillation of the flowers is called press cake and constitutes waste for the industry. Ylang-ylang essential oil is well known for its cosmetic applications. Essential oils derived from the flowers of Cananga odorata are primarily described for use on skin and hair. For example, document FR 3 110 416 describes the use of Cananga odorata absolute as an anti-aging agent.

[0023] These essential oils from Cananga odorata flowers contain more than a hundred volatile compounds belonging to several phytochemical families including sesquiterpenes such as germacrene D, beta-caryophyllene and alpha-farnesene, esters such as methyl benzoate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl acetate and geranyl acetate, monoterpenols such as linalool and phenylpropanoid compounds such as p-methylanisole.

[0024] However, a significant number of the volatile compounds in Cananga odorata essential oils are allergens. Furthermore, the negative effects of Ylang-Ylang essential oil are widely known and described in the literature as potentially causing skin irritation and hyperpigmentation.

[0025] Several compounds identified in Ylang-Ylang flower essential oil are on the list of molecules classified as "allergens" by European regulations concerning cosmetic products (Commission Regulation (EU) 2023 / 1545 of 26 July 2023 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards the labelling of allergenic perfume substances in cosmetic products).

[0026] Essential oil manufacturers report the following allergen levels: Linalool: 2 to 16%; Benzyl benzoate: 5 to 12%; Geraniol: 0.2 to 5%; Farnesol: 1.5 to 5%; Benzyl salicylate: 1 to 4%; Eugenol: 0.1 to 0.9%; Benzyl alcohol: 0.1 to 0.5%; Isoeugenol: 0.1 to 3.0%.

[0027] The total content of allergenic compounds in the essential oils of Cananga odorata flower can therefore vary between approximately 10% and 46% of the overall composition.

[0028] Document FR 3 110 416 describes a process for obtaining ylang-ylang concrete and absolute, comprising numerous steps, some of which are very energy-intensive, such as the removal of the organic solvent from the liquid phase to obtain the concrete, and the removal of waxes present in the concrete to obtain the absolute. The extraction solvents used, notably hexane and ethyl acetate, have the drawback of toxicity and environmental pollution. Finally, and most importantly, another significant issue is the presence in the resulting products of a large quantity of compounds classified as allergens, with concentrations ranging from 36% to 67%.

[0029] A second problem that the invention aims to solve is to provide an active ingredient that reduces or eliminates allergenic risks, and is therefore very low in allergenic compounds.

[0030] In addition to this issue, the applicant is particularly concerned and sensitive to the environmental challenges related to the development and creation of new products, and pays particular attention to eco-design. Eco-design is defined by ADEME (French Agency for Ecological Transition) as a preventive and innovative approach that reduces the negative environmental impacts of a product throughout its entire life cycle (LCA for Life Cycle Assessment), while maintaining its performance qualities.

[0031] The invention therefore also falls within a context of reducing the environmental footprint of industrial and consumer activities.

[0032] According to the European Union, up to 80% of the environmental impacts of a product, device, or process are linked to decisions made during the design phase. Eco-design is therefore a major challenge in reducing the negative impacts of human production and consumption on the environment.

[0033] In other words, the problem that the invention aims to solve is that of providing an effective active ingredient to stimulate the nocturnal and diurnal mechanisms of skin protection against aggressions and skin aging, while reducing or eliminating the allergenic risks associated with the use of the active ingredient, and attempting to offer a more eco-responsible solution.

[0034] Description of the invention

[0035] The applicant found, quite surprisingly, that it was possible to obtain an extract of Cananga odorata that met the needs mentioned above by valorizing a plant waste product of Cananga odorata.

[0036] According to a first aspect, the invention relates to a process for valorizing a plant waste of Cananga odorata to obtain an extract of Cananga odorata, said process comprising a first solid / liquid extraction step carried out on said plant waste using an extraction solvent, followed by a second solid / liquid separation step and a third recovery step of the liquid phase constituting the extract.

[0037] The invention is characterized in that the extraction solvent is anhydrous and nonpolar. Preferably, the extraction solvent is miscible with water. "Anhydrous" means an extraction solvent containing no added water, and only traces of water with a content of less than 1% by weight. "Nonpolar" means an extraction solvent whose resulting dipole moment is zero: either the solvent contains no polar groups, or the solvent contains polar groups whose geometry causes the dipole moment to vanish. "Miscible with water" means that the extraction solvent has the capacity to form a homogeneous mixture with water.

[0038] In another aspect, the invention relates to an extract of Cananga odorata obtained according to the process of the invention. The invention also relates to an extract of Cananga odorata characterized in that it comprises an allergenic compound content of less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract, the allergenic compounds being defined according to EU Regulation 2023 / 1545. In another aspect, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic use of the Cananga odorata extract according to the invention, or of a composition comprising it, for the cosmetic treatment of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0039] Finally, according to another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising at least the extract of Cananga odorata according to the invention.

[0040] The invention is characterized by the valorization of a plant waste product considered as an "ultimate" waste product in the extraction of molecules of interest from Cananga odorata, particularly in processes for obtaining Cananga odorata essential oil. In other words, the raw material on which the process according to the invention is carried out is not the fresh or dried Ylang-Ylang (Cananga odorata) flower, but a Cananga odorata plant waste product resulting from an extraction process, preferably an extraction process for obtaining Cananga odorata essential oil. The plant residues resulting from the hydrodistillation or steam distillation of Cananga odorata flowers to obtain Cananga odorata essential oil are called press cakes and constitute a waste product for this sector.

[0041] The term "Cananga odorata plant waste" refers to fresh or dried, whole or ground press cake obtained from fresh or dried Ylang Ylang flowers, preferably ground dry press cake obtained from fresh flowers. Cananga odorata flower press cake is preferentially the waste product from the Cananga odorata essential oil extraction process.

[0042] Against all expectations, it is by using a waste product considered "ultimate" in the manufacture of Cananga odorata essential oil that, thanks to the specific process of the invention, an effective active ingredient can be obtained to stimulate the nocturnal and diurnal mechanisms of skin protection against aggressions and skin aging, while reducing or eliminating the allergenic risks associated with the use of the active ingredient.

[0043] Advantageously, the extraction solvent comprises at least one diol comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the extraction solvent.

[0044] In a particular and preferred embodiment, the extraction solvent is either a diol comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms, or a mixture of betaine, glycerin and a diol comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms, or a mixture of sorbitol, a diol comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms and glycerin.

[0045] Preferably, the extraction solvent is either composed of propanediol and / or butanediol, or of a mixture of betaine, propanediol and / or butanediol and glycerin, or of a mixture of sorbitol, propanediol and / or butanediol and glycerin.

[0046] Preferably, the extraction solvent may consist solely of propanediol or solely of butanediol, or a mixture of the two. Preferably, the extraction solvent may consist of a mixture of betaine, glycerin, and propanediol, or a mixture of betaine, glycerin, and butanediol, or a mixture of betaine, glycerin, propanediol, and butanediol. Preferably, the extraction solvent may consist of a mixture of sorbitol, glycerin, and propanediol, or a mixture of sorbitol, glycerin, and butanediol, or a mixture of sorbitol, glycerin, propanediol, and butanediol.

[0047] Propanediol is preferably known as propane-1,3-diol or propane-1,2-diol according to the IUPAC (International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry) nomenclature, and more preferably as propane-1,3-diol. Propane-1,2-diol is also called propylene glycol. These solvents belong to the glycol family. They can be obtained from sugars of plant origin and from sugar transformation processes listed and approved by the COSMOS standard.

[0048] Butanediol is preferably butane-1,3-diol according to IUPAC nomenclature, also known as butylene glycol. Similarly, it can be obtained from sugars of plant origin and from processes for transforming these sugars listed and approved by the COSMOS standard.

[0049] Certification according to the international COSMOS standard allows for the labeling of natural or organic products by studying all aspects of the supply, manufacture, marketing and control of cosmetic products.

[0050] Betaine refers to 2-(trimethylazaniumyl)acetate according to IUPAC nomenclature (syn.: trimethylglycine, betaine glycine), which belongs to the family of quaternary ammonium compounds derived from amino acids. This betaine can be available in anhydrous or hydrated form. It is preferentially available in anhydrous form. It can be obtained from plant material and processing methods listed and approved by the COSMOS standard. It is generally extracted from sugar beets.

[0051] Sorbitol refers to (2R,3R,4R,5S)-hexane-1,2,3,4,5,6-hexol according to IUPAC nomenclature, belonging to the polyol family. It can be obtained from plant material and processing methods listed and approved by the COSMOS standard.

[0052] Glycerin refers to propane-1,2,3-triol according to IUPAC nomenclature, belonging to the glycol family. It can be obtained from plant material and transformation processes listed and approved by the COSMOS standard.

[0053] The invention thus offers the advantage, thanks to these extraction solvents, of providing an eco-design benefit because these solvents are "agro-solvents," that is, obtained from plant matter, therefore from renewable resources. Preferably, the extraction solvents are produced using a process approved by the COSMOS standard, which is environmentally friendly.

[0054] Another advantage of the extract according to the invention is that it can be used directly by the formulator for the preparation of cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions, without requiring prior removal of the extract solvent. Indeed, these extraction solvents are so-called "ingredient" solvents, meaning solvents that can be used in the composition of said cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions. They are compatible and non-toxic to humans and the environment.

[0055] Another advantage of the invention is that it provides a reduced water content extract, thus eliminating the need for additives or preservatives to stabilize its shelf life. A reduced water content extract is defined as an extract obtained by extraction from the fresh or dried plant using an anhydrous solvent, as defined above, said extract being characterized by a residual water content advantageously less than 20% by weight, and preferably less than 5%.

[0056] Furthermore, when the components of this solvent are present in certain molar ratios, the solvent possesses the properties of a NaDES (Natural Deep Eutectic Solvent), that is, a eutectic solvent composed of molecules found in nature and linked together by intermolecular interactions, particularly hydrogen bonds. The solvent is notably liquid at room temperature, which facilitates the implementation of the process leading to the extract of the invention. The extraction solvent according to the invention is preferably a NaDES solvent.

[0057] In the case where the extraction solvent consists of a mixture of betaine, glycerin and diol comprising 3 to 4 carbon atoms, for example propanediol (mixture noted in this case BGP), the molar proportions between the different substances are preferably those set out below.

[0058] The molar proportions between betaine and diol comprising 3 to 4 carbon atoms are preferentially between 1:0.5 and 1:1.4, or between 1:3.5 and 1:7, more preferentially between 1:4 and 1:6, and even more preferentially 1:5.

[0059] The molar proportions between betaine and glycerin are preferentially between 1:0.5 and 1:1.4, or between 1:3.5 and 1:7, more preferentially between 1:0.7 and 1:1.2, and even more preferentially 1:1.

[0060] The molar proportions between glycerin and diol comprising 3 to 4 carbon atoms are preferentially between 1:7 and 7:1, more preferentially between 1:5 and 5:1, and even more preferentially 1:5.

[0061] The molar proportions between betaine, glycerin, and the diol comprising 3 to 4 carbon atoms are preferentially between 1:1:3 and 1:1:7, even more preferably 1:1:4 and 1:1:6, and even more preferably about 1:1:5. In a particularly preferred mode, the extraction solvent is a NaDES betaine / glycerin / diol comprising 3 to 4 carbon atoms having these molar proportions, and particularly one having a molar ratio of 1:1:5.

[0062] In the case where the extraction solvent consists of a mixture of sorbitol, a diol comprising 3 to 4 carbon atoms, for example propanediol, and glycerin (mixture noted in this case SPG), the molar proportions between the different substances are preferably those shown below.

[0063] The molar proportions between sorbitol and diol comprising 3 to 4 carbon atoms are preferentially between 1:0.5 and 1:7, more preferentially between 1:0.7 and 1:3.5, more preferentially between 1:0.8 and 1:1.4, even more preferentially 1:1.

[0064] The molar proportions between sorbitol and glycerin are preferentially between 1:7 and 1:0.5, more preferentially between 1:6 and 1:1.5, more preferentially between 1:5.5 and 1:3.5, and even more preferentially 1:5. The molar proportions between the diol comprising 3 to 4 carbon atoms and glycerin are preferentially between 1:1 and 1:7, more preferentially between 1:4 and 1:6, and even more preferentially 1:5.

[0065] The molar proportions between sorbitol, the diol comprising 3 to 4 carbon atoms and glycerin are preferentially between 1:1:3 and 1:1:7, even more preferably 1:1:4 and 1:1:6, and even more preferably about 1:1:5. In a particularly preferred mode, the extraction solvent is a NaDES sorbitol / diol comprising 3 to 4 carbon atoms / glycerin having these molar proportions, and particularly one having a molar ratio of 1:1:5.

[0066] In practice, the solvent used can be produced by mixing either betaine, glycerin, and a diol containing 3 to 4 carbon atoms, or sorbitol, glycerin, and a diol containing 3 to 4 carbon atoms, in a stirred reactor until a homogeneous, clear, colorless liquid is obtained. This mixture can be prepared at a temperature between 2°C and 100°C for 0.5 to 6 hours, preferably at 40°C to 70°C for 1 to 2 hours.

[0067] The extraction solvent is preferably free of hexane and ethyl acetate.

[0068] The process of valorizing a plant waste of Cananga odorata to obtain an extract of Cananga odorata involves a solid / liquid extraction step.

[0069] Solid / liquid extraction can be carried out by various techniques well known to those skilled in the art, such as maceration, re-maceration, digestion, dynamic maceration, decoction, fluid bed extraction, microwave-assisted extraction, ultrasonic-assisted extraction, counter-current extraction, percolation, re-percolation, leaching, reduced-pressure extraction, diacolation.

[0070] In practice, the plant-to-solvent mass ratio used for the extraction step is between 1 / 99 and 25 / 75, advantageously between 3 / 97 and 15 / 85, and preferably between 5 / 95 and 10 / 90. The extraction step is preferably carried out at a temperature between 2°C and 100°C, and more preferably between 20°C and 80°C. The extraction step can be maintained for a period ranging from a few minutes to several days.

[0071] In order to optimize the extraction of active compounds while protecting these compounds from oxidation by atmospheric oxygen, the solid / liquid extraction step is advantageously carried out under agitation and / or under a nitrogen atmosphere.

[0072] According to the invention, the solid / liquid extraction step is followed by a solid / liquid separation step, the objective being to recover the liquid phase, also called the solid / liquid separation filtrate, containing the active material. This separation can be carried out by any technique known to those skilled in the art, in particular draining, pressing, dewatering, centrifugation, or filtration.

[0073] Optionally, the liquid / solid separation step can be followed by a concentration and / or fractionation step, which yields a concentrate or fraction in liquid or semi-solid form, depending on the concentration factor. In practice, the concentration or fractionation step can be carried out by evaporation under reduced pressure, ultrafiltration, nanofiltration, reverse osmosis, or chromatography. Preferably, the solid / liquid separation filtrate or concentrate undergoes one or more clarification steps. For this clarification step, a person skilled in the art can use any type of filtration known in the relevant field.

[0074] Finally, for packaging purposes, the process for obtaining the extract according to the invention may include sterilizing filtration. Sterilizing filtration is conventionally carried out by filtering the product through a filter having pores with a diameter of 0.22 µm. Preferably, the sterilizing filtration step is the final step of the process.

[0075] The invention also relates to an extract of Cananga odorata obtained according to the process of the invention. The process of the invention makes it possible to obtain an extract of Cananga odorata that reduces or eliminates allergenic risks, thus offering the cosmetics industry an active ingredient perfectly aligned with the expectations of this sector.

[0076] Unlike the extracts of Cananga odorata of the prior art which include large quantities of allergenic compounds, generally between 10% and 46% by weight for the essential oil, and between 36% and 67% by weight for the extracts according to document FR31 10416, the extract according to the invention includes only a very small quantity of allergenic compounds.

[0077] In another aspect, the invention relates to an extract of Cananga odorata comprising an allergenic compound content of less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract, the allergenic compounds being defined according to EU Regulation 2023 / 1545. In other words, the phytochemical composition of the Cananga odorata extract according to the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract of allergenic compounds as defined according to EU Regulation 2023 / 1545, namely 81 compounds considered allergens. The Cananga odorata extract according to the invention is non-allergenic.

[0078] Allergenic compounds are those molecules listed and classified as "allergens" by European regulations concerning cosmetic products: Commission Regulation (EU) 2023 / 1545 of 26 July 2023 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards the labelling of allergenic perfume substances in cosmetic products.

[0079] According to the invention, the extract of Cananga odorata preferably comprises a benzyl benzoate content of less than 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract, and / or a benzyl salicylate content of less than 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0080] One of the advantages of the invention lies in the fact that the Cananga odorata extract of the invention can be used directly by the formulator for the preparation of cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions, without requiring prior removal of the extraction solvent. The extraction solvent is considered an "ingredient solvent".

[0081] According to the invention, the Cananga odorata extract is preferably non-oily. It preferably has a reduced water content, that is, a water content of less than 20% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight. It is preferably non-polar. The Cananga odorata extract is most preferably non-oily and contains less than 20% water by weight, and more preferably non-oily, non-polar, and contains less than 20% water by weight. By "non-oily," it is understood that the extract contains no oil, or traces of oil with a content of less than 1% by weight.

[0082] According to another aspect, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic use of the extract of Cananga odorata according to the invention, or of a composition comprising it, for the cosmetic treatment of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0083] The Applicant has further discovered that the extract of the invention makes it possible to stimulate the nocturnal and diurnal mechanisms of skin protection against aggressions and skin aging.

[0084] The extract according to the invention has particularly interesting biological properties, especially for improving the appearance of the skin and / or mucous membranes, for improving skin resistance and / or elasticity, and / or for treating or preventing skin aging, wrinkles, or sagging skin.

[0085] The invention relates to the non-therapeutic use of the extract of Cananga odorata according to the invention, or of a composition comprising it, to combat skin aging and / or protect the skin from external aggressions.

[0086] The invention relates to the non-therapeutic use of the extract of Cananga odorata according to the invention, or of a composition comprising it, to increase skin hydration, and / or strengthen the skin barrier function, and / or improve skin microrelief, and / or improve skin radiance and tone.

[0087] The invention relates to the non-therapeutic use of the Cananga odorata extract according to the invention, or of a composition comprising it, to increase the transcriptomic expression of antioxidant enzymes and / or to stimulate the Nrf2 antioxidant pathway, and / or to increase protection against stress-induced protein carbonylation in skin tissue.

[0088] Indeed, as detailed in the experimental part, the Cananga odorata extract according to the invention has a biological efficacy on the activation of the Nrf2 antioxidant pathway and on the increase of the transcriptomic expression of antioxidant genes, in cultures of keratinocytes that are not synchronized and are synchronized in "night" mode, i.e. day and night.

[0089] The demonstrated efficiencies are as follows:

[0090] Increased expression of the transcription factor Nrf2 in the nucleus of unsynchronized and synchronized keratinocytes in "night" mode.

[0091] Increased transcriptomic expression of oxidation defense genes GPX2, GPX3, TXN, NQO1 and HMOX1 in monolayer cultures of unsynchronized keratinocytes.

[0092] Furthermore, the Cananga odorata extract according to the invention exhibits biological efficacy in protecting against oxidation and protein carbonylation in skin excipients subjected to environmental stress, specifically photopollution. The demonstrated efficacies are as follows: Reduction of the level of protein carbonylation in human skin excipients (whole skin) subjected to stress: urban particles and UVA irradiation.

[0093] Decrease in the level of protein carbonylation in the epidermal compartment of human skin expiants subjected to stress: urban particles and UVA irradiation.

[0094] Decrease in the level of protein carbonylation in the dermal compartment of human skin expiants subjected to stress: urban particles and UVA irradiation.

[0095] From this perspective, and according to another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising at least the extract of Cananga odorata according to the invention or obtained according to the process of the invention. The cosmetic and / or dermatological composition is suitable for topical application to the skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or hair and nails.

[0096] Preferably, in the composition of the invention, the extract according to the invention represents between 0.1% and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight of the composition.

[0097] The cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used for a rinsed or non-rinsed topical application, for example in anhydrous form, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, a silicone emulsion, a microemulsion, a nanoemulsion, a gel, an aqueous solution or a hydroalcoholic solution.

[0098] This composition can be more or less fluid and may be presented as a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a gel, a cleansing base, or a stick. It can be used in numerous treatments for the skin, lips, and hair, including the scalp, particularly to protect and / or treat the skin, lips, and / or hair, and / or to apply makeup to the skin and / or lips.

[0099] Cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations may contain excipients commonly used in cosmetics and dermatology, such as fats, detergent and / or conditioning surfactants, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, exfoliating agents, perfumes, fillers, hydrophilic and lipophilic sunscreens, colorants, acidic or basic neutralizing agents, penetrating agents, and polymers. These types of excipients are all well known to those skilled in the art.

[0100] In practice, the quantities of these different excipients are those classically used in the fields considered, and the sum of the excipients can represent between 0.01% and 99.99% of the total weight of the composition.

[0101] Suitable fats include mineral oils, animal oils such as lanolin, vegetable oils, synthetic oils of natural and / or petrochemical origin such as isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol, isostearyl isostearate, decyl oleate, and isopropyl palmitate, and silicone oils such as cyclomethicone and dimethicone. Fatty alcohols, fatty acids, waxes, and gums, particularly silicone elastomers, can also be used as fats.

[0102] Suitable detergent and / or conditioning surfactants include nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof, such as alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate, alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, or quaternary ammonium salts.

[0103] Suitable emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers include, for example, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, oxyethylenated fatty acid sorbitan esters, fatty alcohol PEG ethers, glycerin fatty acid esters, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl polyglucosides, alkyl polypentosides, and dimethicone copolyols.

[0104] Examples of suitable hydrophilic gelling agents include carboxyvinyl polymers, acrylic copolymers (carbomers) such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides such as xanthan gum, guar gum, natural gums such as cellulose gum and derivatives, starches and their derivatives, clays, and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane copolymers.

[0105] Examples of suitable lipophilic gelling agents include modified clays such as bentones, metallic salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica, ethylcellulose, dextrose esters, hydrogenated castor oil and its derivatives, polyurethanes, and magnesium salts.

[0106] Suitable preservatives may be cited for example benzoic, sorbic, propionic, salicylic, dehydroacetic acids and their salts, benzyl alcohol, ethylhexylglycerin, parabens, their salts and esters, triclosan, imidazolidinyl urea, phenoxyethanol, DMDM ​​hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea, chlorphenesin.

[0107] Suitable antioxidants include, for example, chelating agents such as EDTA and its salts, sodium metabisulfite, salicylic, ascorbic and citric acids and their salts, sodium tartrate, sodium gluconate, carotenoids and tocopherols.

[0108] Examples of solvents that can be used in cosmetic composition (distinct from the extraction solvent) include water, ethanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, propanediol, butylene glycol, and sorbitol.

[0109] Examples of suitable exfoliating agents include chemical exfoliants such as AHAs, and physical exfoliants such as natural or synthetic powders.

[0110] Suitable fillers include, for example, talc, kaolin, mica, serecite, magnesium carbonate, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, and organic powders such as nylon.

[0111] Suitable colorants include, for example, lipophilic colorants, hydrophilic colorants, pigments and pearlescent pigments commonly used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof. Suitable neutralizing agents include basic agents such as sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, and potassium hydroxide, and acidic agents such as citric acid and lactic acid.

[0112] Examples of suitable pro-penetrating agents include alcohols and glycols (ethanol, propylene glycol), ethoxydiglycol, alcohols and fatty acids (oleic acid), fatty acid esters, and dimethyl isosorbide.

[0113] The composition of the invention may also contain, in addition to the extract according to the invention, other active ingredients. Suitable active ingredients include, for example, free radical scavengers or, more generally, antioxidants, whitening agents, pigments, emollients, moisturizers, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-inflammatories, anti-acne agents, keratolytic and / or desquamating agents, anti-wrinkle and firming agents, draining agents, anti-irritants, soothing agents, vitamins and their mixtures, mattifying agents, anti-aging actives such as retinol, healing agents, antiseptics, and essential oils.

[0114] The process according to the invention, and the extract according to the invention thus make it possible to provide an effective active ingredient to stimulate the nocturnal and diurnal mechanisms of skin protection against aggressions and skin aging, while reducing or eliminating the allergenic risks associated with the use of the active ingredient, and offering a more eco-responsible solution.

[0115] The advantages of the invention in terms of eco-design are as follows:

[0116] The valorization of waste to extract an active ingredient of interest, exhibiting biological efficacy for skin care;

[0117] The use of agro-sourced solvents;

[0118] The non-toxicity of extraction solvents for humans and the environment;

[0119] The use of solvents called "ingredient solvents", allowing the extract to be used directly in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions;

[0120] Reducing the number of process steps with the possibility of eliminating energy-intensive solvent evaporation steps;

[0121] The possibility of avoiding the addition of additives or preservatives to stabilize the preservation of the extract;

[0122] The biodegradability of extraction solvents.

[0123] The invention and its resulting advantages will become clear from the following implementation examples.

[0124] Examples

[0125] Example 1: Preparation and characteristics of NaDES solvents

[0126] The NaDES Betaine / Glycerin / Propanediol solvents in molar proportions of 1:1:5 and

[0127] Sorbitol / propanediol / glycerin in molar proportions of 1:1:5 are obtained by mixing all the compounds for 30 minutes to 1 hour in a stirred reactor equipped with a double jacket through which a heat transfer fluid heated to 70 °C circulates. The solvents obtained are clear, colorless liquids. The propanediol used is propane-1,3-diol, and the betaine used is anhydrous.

[0128] These two solvents belong to the category of NaLTTM (Natural Low Transition Temperature Mixture) and more specifically to NaDES (Natural Deep Eutectic Solvent). The methodology applied to characterize them is that described by "Caprin B., Charton V., Rodier J.-D., et al. "Scrutiny of the supramolecular structure of bio-sourced fructose / glycerol / water ternary mixtures Towards green low transition temperature mixtures. Journal of Molecular Liquids, 2021, 337, pp. 116428."

[0129] NaDES Betaine / Glycerin / Propanediol with a molar ratio of 1:1:5 is characterized by a single, low glass transition temperature: Tg = -108°C. NaDES Sorbitol / Propanediol / Glycerin with a molar ratio of 1:1:5 is characterized by a single, low glass transition temperature: Tg = -74°C. This glass transition temperature is determined by DSC analysis using a DSC-Q20 instrument (TA Instruments) equipped with a liquid nitrogen cooling system. Samples are placed in airtight aluminum capsules under a nitrogen flow (50 mL / min) and subjected to three temperature cycles: 1) from -140°C to 70°C at 10°C / min; 2) from 70°C to -140°C at 10°C / min; 3) from -140°C to 70°C at 10°C / min. The glass transition temperature (Tg) is determined from the second heating ramp by considering the midpoint of the thermal transition.

[0130] The NaDES Betaine / Glycerin / Propanediol solution with a molar ratio of 1:1:5 (designated solvent BGP115) and the NaDES Sorbitol / Propanediol / Glycerin solution with a molar ratio of 1:1:5 (designated solvent SPG115) are characterized by the presence of intermolecular hydrogen interactions, determined by 2D NOESY NMR analysis using an AVANCE III 400 MHz spectrometer at 1 H. These intermolecular hydrogen interactions are evidenced by the presence of off-diagonal correlation spots. The supramolecular nature of the Betaine / Glycerin / Propanediol solution in 1:1:5 molar ratios and the Sorbitol / Propanediol / Glycerin solution in 1:1:5 molar ratios is demonstrated.

[0131] Example 2: Preparation of extracts from Cananga odorata flower press cake

[0132] The plant-based raw material used to prepare the extracts is a press cake obtained from the hydrodistillation of Ylang-Ylang (Cananga odorata) flowers. It corresponds to the solid residue of flowers collected at the end of the production of the complete essential oil, i.e., after approximately 14 to 18 hours of hydrodistillation.

[0133] This hydrodistillation press cake has no other use and therefore constitutes a final waste product for the essential oil manufacturing process. Its use as a plant-based raw material allows it to be transformed from waste to co-product. As such, the environmental impacts associated with its disposal are avoided by reclassifying it as a co-product.

[0134] The fresh flowers used to prepare the flower press cakes were organically grown and harvested in Mayotte in 2021. These flowers were processed by hydrodistillation on the day of harvest to extract the essential oil. The flower press cakes were then collected and dried. Finally, the dried flower press cakes were ground using a knife mill. Process 1: Propanediol - Extract 1 A (PDO solvent)

[0135] The dried and crushed flower press cakes are extracted with 1,3-propanediol (noted as Propanediol) at a plant mass ratio of 5%, under continuous mechanical agitation, at a temperature of 80°C for 4 hours. A solid / liquid separation is then performed using nylon mesh, and the resulting extract is clarified under pressure on cellulose plates and a cellulose acetate membrane until a cutoff of 0.2 µm is reached. An extract of Cananga odorata is thus obtained and designated "Extract 1 A".

[0136] Process 2: NaDES BGP1 15 - Extract 2A (Solvent BGP115)

[0137] The dried and ground flower press cakes are extracted using the NaDES BGP115 solvent obtained in Example 1, with a plant mass ratio of 5%, under continuous mechanical stirring, and at a temperature of 80°C for 4 hours. A solid / liquid separation is then performed using nylon mesh, and the resulting extract is clarified under pressure on cellulose plates and a cellulose acetate membrane until a cutoff of 0.2 µm is reached. An extract of Cananga odorata is thus obtained and designated "Extract 2A".

[0138] Process 3: NaDES SPG115 - Extract 3A (SPG115 Solvent)

[0139] The dried and ground flower press cakes are extracted using the NaDES SPG115 solvent obtained in Example 1, with a plant mass ratio of 3%, under continuous mechanical stirring, and at a temperature of 80°C for 4 hours. A solid / liquid separation is then performed using nylon mesh, and the resulting extract is clarified under pressure on cellulose plates and a cellulose acetate membrane until a cutoff of 0.2 µm is reached. An extract of Cananga odorata is thus obtained and designated "Extract 3A".

[0140] Example 3: Physico-chemical characteristics of extracts from flower cakes

[0141] The visual appearance, odor, color parameters L*a*b* and Gardner Index, and pH of extracts 1A (Solvent Pdo), 2A (Solvent BGP1 15) and 3A (Solvent SPG115) from the flower cakes obtained in Example 2 are determined according to the following methods.

[0142] The visual appearance is determined for the pure extract placed in a colorless and transparent glass tube with a diameter of 1 cm.

[0143] The odor is evaluated by an internal panel trained in olfactory evaluation methods.

[0144] The Gardner and L*a*b* color indices are measured on the pure extract in a square PMMA plastic cuvette with a 10mm optical path length, using the 10° observer and the D65 illuminant (Konica Minolta equipment).

[0145] The pH is measured on the product diluted to % (w / w) in water, with an "Inlab Science" electrode (Equipment Profession).

[0146] All the results are shown in Table 1. [Table 1]

[0147] Extracts 1A (Solvent Pdo), 2A (Solvent BGP115) and 3A (Solvent SPG115), having been made with similar extraction parameters but different solvents, exhibit different color and odor characteristics.

[0148] A number of compounds in Ylang-Ylang (Cananga odorata) essential oil, listed as allergens according to Regulation (EU) 2023 / 1545, having been identified in the state of the art, the 57 molecules classified as allergens were also sought and quantified, where applicable, in each of these extracts. The analysis was performed by GC-MS. The limit of quantification for all the compounds analyzed was 1 mg / kg.

[0149] The results are shown in Table 2 below.

[0150] [Table 2]

[0151] Only 9 out of 57 compounds were detected in extracts 1A (Pdo solvent), 2A (BGP115 solvent), and 3A (SPG115 solvent) using the method employed. The remaining compounds on the list of 57 allergenic molecules were not detected. Extracts 1A (Pdo solvent), 2A (BGP115 solvent), and 3A (SPG115 solvent) contain less than 0.1% by weight of allergenic compounds and are considered to be non-allergenic.

[0152] Of these nine compounds, two molecules are predominant in extracts 1A (PDO solvent), 2A (BGP1 15 solvent), and 3A (SPG115 solvent): benzyl benzoate and benzyl salicylate. Extracts 1A (PDO solvent) and 2A (BGP1 15 solvent) have similar concentrations of each of the quantified molecules. Extract 2A (BGP115 solvent) contains slightly fewer allergenic molecules than extract 1A (PDO solvent). Extract 3A (SPG115 solvent) has the lowest concentrations of both of these molecules.

[0153] The total concentration of allergenic molecules in these extracts (< 0.1% by weight) is significantly lower than the levels analyzed in the essential oil, as well as in the absolute described in patent FR3110416. Indeed, manufacturers of Cananga odorata flower essential oil report total allergenic compound levels ranging from 10% to 46% by weight of the essential oil. Extracts 1A (PDO solvent), 2A (BGP115 solvent), and 3A (SPG115 solvent) therefore contain allergenic compound levels approximately 140 to 600 times lower than those of the essential oil, depending on the extract. Patent FR3110416 describes a composition in compounds classified as allergens of between 36 and 67% extract, i.e. concentrations much higher than that of extracts 1A (Solvent Pdo), 2A (Solvent BGP115) and 3A (Solvent SPG115).These extracts 1A (Solvent Pdo), 2A (Solvent BGP115) and 3A (Solvent SPG115) therefore present much lower allergenic risks than those that the essential oil might present.

[0154] Example 4: Effect of extract 1A (solvent Pdo), extract 2A (solvent BGP1 15) and extract 3A (solvent SPG115) of Cananga odorata flower cakes on the transcriptomic expression of genes encoding antioxidant enzymes in normal human keratinocyte cultures.

[0155] Principle of method.

[0156] We used the qRT-PCR technique to measure the expression of the genes of interest GPX2, GPX3, TXN, NQO1 and HMOX-1 which respectively encode Glutathione Peroxidase 2, Glutathione Peroxidase 3, Thioredoxine, NAD(P)H Quinone Dehydrogenase 1 and Heme oxygenase-1, in monolayer cultures of normal human keratinocytes treated or not with extract 1A (solvent Pdo) or extract 2A (solvent BGP115) or extract 3A (solvent SPG1 15) of Cananga odorata flower cakes.

[0157] Protocol.

[0158] Normal primary human keratinocytes were treated for 24 h with extract 1A (Pdo solvent), extract 2A (BGP115 solvent), or extract 3A (SPG115 solvent) of Cananga odorata at final concentrations of 0.5% and 0.25%. Untreated (NT) cells were used as controls. Cells were washed with phosphate-buffered saline and then lysed for RNA extraction. After RNA quantification and quality validation, the relative expression of the GPX2, GPX3, TXN, NQO1, and HMOX-1 genes was assessed by RT-qPCR. The study was based on three independent experiments (n=3) for extracts 1A (Pdo solvent) and 2A (BGP115 solvent) and two independent experiments (n=2) for extract 3A (SPG115 solvent).The statistical test is a One-Way ANOVA followed by a Tukey post-test to compare the expressions of antioxidant genes in untreated normal human keratinocyte cultures versus normal human keratinocyte cultures treated with extract 1A (solvent Pdo) or extract 2A (solvent BGP115) or extract 3A (solvent SPG115) of Cananga odorata flower cakes.

[0159] Results.

[0160] We quantified the transcriptomic expression of the GPX2, GPX3, TXN, NQO1, and HMOX-1 genes in monolayer cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes treated or untreated with extract 1A (Pdo solvent), extract 2A (BGP115 solvent), or extract 3A (SPG115 solvent). Results are expressed as a percentage relative to NT cells. Values ​​are expressed as mean ± standard deviation over 2 or 3 experiments (n=2 or n=3).

[0161] The results for extract 1 A (solvent Pdo) are recorded in the following tables 3 to 7.

[0162] [Table 3]

[0163] Table 3: GPX2 gene expression (in % relative to the untreated condition) in monolayer cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes treated for 24 h with extract 1A (Pdo solvent) of Cananga odorata flower meal at 0.5% and 0.25%. [Table 4]

[0164] Table 4: GPX3 gene expression (in % relative to the untreated condition) in monolayer cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes treated for 24h with extract 1A (Pdo solvent) of Cananga odorata flower cake at 0.5% and 0.25%.

[0165] [Table 5]

[0166] Table 5: Expression of the TXN gene (in % relative to the untreated condition) in monolayer cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes treated for 24h with extract 1A (solvent Pdo) of Cananga odorata flower cakes at 0.5% and 0.25%.

[0167] [Table 6]

[0168] Table 6: NQO1 gene expression (in % relative to the untreated condition) in monolayer cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes treated for 24h with extract 1A (Pdo solvent) of Cananga odorata flower cake at 0.5% and 0.25%.

[0169] [Table 7]

[0170] Table 7: Expression of the HMOX-1 gene (in % relative to the untreated condition) in monolayer cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes treated for 24h with extract 1A (Pdo solvent) of Cananga odorata flower cake at 0.5% and 0.25%.

[0171] Extract 1A (Pdo solvent) of Cananga odorata flower cake obtained according to the invention induces a significant increase in the transcriptomic expression of the GPX2, GPX3, TXN, and NQO1 genes at 0.5% in 2D cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes. The extraction solvent alone does not induce an increase in the expression of the GPX2, GPX3, TXN, and NQO1 genes (data not shown). Extract 1A (Pdo solvent) of Cananga odorata exhibits antioxidant capacity by activating several target genes encoding antioxidant enzymes.

[0172] The results for extract 2A (solvent BGP115) are recorded in Tables 8 to 12 below. [Table 8]

[0173] Table 8: GPX2 gene expression (in % relative to the untreated condition) in monolayer cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes treated for 24h with extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower cakes at 0.5% and 0.25%.

[0174] [Table 9]

[0175] Table 9: GPX3 gene expression (in % relative to the untreated condition) in monolayer cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes treated for 24h with extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower cakes at 0.5% and 0.25%.

[0176] [Table 10]

[0177] Table 10: Expression of the TXN gene (in % relative to the untreated condition) in monolayer cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes treated for 24h with extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower cakes at 0.5% and 0.25%.

[0178] [Table 11]

[0179] Table 11: NQO1 gene expression (in % relative to the untreated condition) in monolayer cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes treated for 24h with extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower cake at 0.5% and 0.25%.

[0180] [Table 12]

[0181] Table 12: Expression of the HMOX-1 gene (in % relative to the untreated condition) in monolayer cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes treated for 24h with extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower cakes at 0.5% and 0.25%.

[0182] Extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower cake obtained according to the invention induces a significant increase in the transcriptomic expression of the GPX2, GPX3, TXN, NQO1, and HMOX-1 genes at 0.5% in 2D cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes. The extraction solvent alone does not induce an increase in the expression of the GPX2, GPX3, TXN, NQO1, and HMOX-1 genes (data not shown). Extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata exhibits antioxidant capacity by activating several target genes encoding antioxidant enzymes.

[0183] The results for extract 3A (SPG1 15 solvent) are recorded in Tables 13 to 15 below. [Table 13]

[0184] Table 13: GPX2 gene expression (in % relative to the untreated condition) in monolayer cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes treated for 24h with extract 3A (solvent SPG115) of Cananga odorata flower cakes at 0.5% and 0.25%.

[0185] [Table 14]

[0186] Table 14: NQO1 gene expression (in % relative to the untreated condition) in monolayer cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes treated for 24h with extract 3A (solvent SPG115) of Cananga odorata flower cake at 0.5% and 0.25%.

[0187] [Table 15]

[0188] Table 15: Expression of the HMOX-1 gene (in % relative to the untreated condition) in monolayer cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes treated for 24h with extract 3A (solvent SPG115) of Cananga odorata flower cakes at 0.5% and 0.25%.

[0189] Extract 3A (SPG115 solvent) of Cananga odorata flower cake obtained according to the invention induces a significant increase in the transcriptomic expression of the GPX2, NQO1, and HMOX-1 genes at 0.5% in 2D cultures of normal human primary keratinocytes. The extraction solvent alone does not induce an increase in the expression of the GPX2, NQO1, and HMOX-1 genes (data not shown). Extract 3A (SPG115 solvent) of Cananga odorata exhibits antioxidant capacity by activating several target genes encoding antioxidant enzymes.

[0190] Example 5: Effect of extract 1A (solvent Pdo) and extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower cake on the activation of the Nrf2 antioxidant pathway, and more specifically on the translocation of the Nrf2 transcription factor into the nucleus of normal, unsynchronized human keratinocytes. Principle of the method.

[0191] We used in situ immunostaining coupled with image analysis to measure the nuclear expression of the transcription factor Nrf2 in monolayer cultures of normal human keratinocytes treated or not with extract 1A (Pdo solvent) or extract 2A (BGP1 15 solvent) of Cananga odorata flower cakes. Protocol.

[0192] Normal human keratinocytes at 70–80% confluence were treated for 6 hours with either extract 1A (PDO solvent) or extract 2A (BGP1 15 solvent) of Cananga odorata at final concentrations of 0.5%, 0.25%, and 0.1%. Untreated (NT) cells were used as controls. The normal human keratinocytes were then washed with phosphate-buffered saline before being fixed (Antigenfix), permeabilized with 0.1% Triton for 5 minutes, and saturated with 1% BSA (bovine serum albumin) for 1 hour. The cells were incubated with the primary antibody (anti-Nrf2) overnight at 4°C, washed with PBS buffer, and incubated with the secondary antibody bound to the fluorochrome Alexa 594 for 1 hour. Fluorescence is read on a Cytation 5 imaging spectrophotometer (Biotek) with appropriate filters. Fluorescence measurements by image analysis are performed using common acquisition parameters.

[0193] The study is based on 3 independent experiments (n=3). The statistical test is a One-Way ANOVA followed by a Tukey post-test to compare the nuclear expression of Nrf2 in untreated normal human keratinocyte cultures versus normal human keratinocyte cultures treated with extract 1A (Pdo solvent) or extract 2A (BGP115 solvent) of Cananga odorata flower cakes.

[0194] Results.

[0195] We quantified the nuclear expression of Nrf2 in the nuclei of normal human keratinocytes treated or untreated with extract 1A (Pdo solvent) or extract 2A (BGP115 solvent) of Cananga odorata flower meal. Results are expressed as the percentage of Nrf2-translocated cells relative to the total number of cells. Values ​​are expressed as mean ± standard deviation across three independent experiments (n=3). A one-way ANOVA followed by a Tukey post-test was performed against the untreated condition.

[0196] The results are recorded in the following table 16.

[0197] [Table 16]

[0198] Table 16: Translocated Nrf2 cells (as a percentage of total cells) in monolayer cultures of normal human keratinocytes treated for 6 hours with extract 1A (Pdo solvent) of Cananga odorata flower meal at 0.5%, 0.25%, and 0.1%. One-way ANOVA followed by a Tukey post-test was performed versus the untreated condition.

[0199] Extract 1A (Pdo solvent) of Cananga odorata flower cake obtained according to the invention significantly increases the translocation of the transcription factor Nrf2 (60% of cells translocated to 0.5% vs. 12% for the untreated condition) into the nucleus of normal human keratinocytes compared to the untreated condition. The extraction solvent alone does not induce an increase in Nrf2 translocation into the nucleus of keratinocytes (data not shown). Extract 1A (Pdo solvent) activates the Nrf2 antioxidant pathway in the nucleus of unsynchronized keratinocytes.

[0200] The same experiment was performed with extract 2A (solvent BGP115). The results are recorded in Table 17 below. [Table 17]

[0201] Table 17: Translocated Nrf2 cells (as a % of total cells) in monolayer cultures of normal human keratinocytes treated for 6 h with extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower meal at 0.5%, 0.25%, and 0.1%. One-way ANOVA followed by a Tukey post-test was performed versus the untreated condition.

[0202] Extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower meal obtained according to the invention significantly increases the translocation of the transcription factor Nrf2 (54% of cells translocated to 0.5% vs. 12% for the untreated condition) into the nucleus of normal human keratinocytes compared to the untreated condition. The extraction solvent alone does not induce an increase in Nrf2 translocation into the nucleus of keratinocytes (data not shown). Extract 2A (solvent BGP115) activates the Nrf2 antioxidant pathway in the nucleus of unsynchronized keratinocytes.

[0203] Extract 1A (solvent Pdo) and extract 2A (solvent BGP1 15) of Cananga odorata flower cakes obtained according to the invention exhibit almost equivalent efficiencies on the translocation of the Nrf2 transcription factor into the nucleus of unsynchronized keratinocytes.

[0204] Example 6: Effect of extract 1A (solvent Pdo) and extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower cakes on the activation of the Nrf2 antioxidant pathway, and more specifically on the translocation of the Nrf2 transcription factor into the nucleus of synchronized normal human keratinocytes, in “night” mode.

[0205] 6.1 Study of the synchronization of normal human keratinocytes. A monolayer model of keratinocytes in "night" mode was previously developed. For this purpose, keratinocyte cultures were synchronized (treatment with 1 M dexamethasone for 2 hours) to model the circadian rhythm, i.e., the biphasic expression of the "night" (BMAL1) and "day" (PER3) clock genes. Monitoring the expression of the clock genes from T0h to T72h, with a pause every 6 hours using RT-qPCR (Polymerase Chain Reaction), allowed us to demonstrate that at T30h and T54h, the expression of the "night" gene (BMAL1) was antiphase with the expression of the "day" gene (PER3). It should be noted that the amplitude between "night" and "day" expression was greater at T30h.

[0206] For the in vitro efficacy test, on monitoring the translocation of the Nrf2 transcription factor in the nucleus of keratinocytes in "night" mode, we decided to carry out the treatments with extracts 1A (solvent Pdo) or 2A (solvent BGP1 15) of Cananga odorata flower cakes between T24h and T30h (i.e. 6h of treatment equivalent to the initial protocol), that is to say around the peak of expression of the "night" clock gene BMAL1.

[0207] 6.2 Efficacy of extracts 1A (Pdo solvent) or 2A (BGP1 15 solvent) on Nrf2 translocation in synchronized normal human keratinocyte cultures, in “night” mode.

[0208] Principle of the method.

[0209] We used the qRT-PCR (Polymerase Chain Reaction) technique to measure the expression of the BMAL1 and PER3 genes in monolayer cultures of normal human keratinocytes synchronized and treated or not with extract 1A (solvent Pdo) or extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower cakes.

[0210] We used in situ immunostaining coupled with image analysis to measure the nuclear expression of the transcription factor Nrf2 in monolayer cultures of normal human keratinocytes synchronized and treated or not with extract 1A (solvent Pdo) or extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower cakes.

[0211] Protocol.

[0212] Normal human keratinocytes with 70-80% confluence are synchronized for 2 hours with 1 pM dexamethasone. The end of dexamethasone treatment corresponds to time TOh.

[0213] To study cell synchronization, and more specifically to monitor the antiphase expression of the "day" and "night" genes (PER3 vs. BMAL1), kinetics were performed at T6h, T24h, and T30h. At each kinetic time point, the cell mats were rinsed with phosphate buffer and then lysed with a highly denaturing buffer before purification by complementary hybridization of the total RNA using the "MagMax™-96 Total RNA Isolation Kit" (Invitrogen). After quantification and validation of RNA quality, the relative expression of the "day" (PER3) and "night" (BMAL1) genes was assessed by RT-qPCR.

[0214] qRT-PCR is the most sensitive method for detecting and quantifying messenger RNA (mRNA) at the cellular level. RNA is first reverse-transcribed (RT) into complementary DNA (cDNA), which is more stable than RNA. It is the cDNA that is used to perform PCR. PCR allows for real-time monitoring of the PCR amplification process by detecting the fluorescence emitted by the newly formed PCR products. Detection was performed using SYBR Green, a fluorescent organic compound that binds to nucleic acids. The relative quantification of the newly formed transcripts is performed using the tCA calculation method by normalizing the obtained expressions against a housekeeping gene, thus allowing for comparison between two samples.

[0215] To monitor the translocation of the transcription factor Nrf2 into the nucleus of synchronized keratinocytes, cells are treated for 6 h (between T24h and T30h, at the peak expression of the "night" gene BMAL1) with extract 1A (Pdo solvent) or extract 2A (BGP115 solvent) of Cananga odorata at a final concentration of 0.5%. Untreated (NT) cells are used as controls. Normal human keratinocytes are then washed with phosphate-buffered saline before being fixed (Antigenfix), permeabilized with 0.1% Triton for 5 minutes, and saturated with 1% BSA (bovine serum albumin) for 1 hour. The cells are incubated with the primary antibody (anti-Nrf2) overnight at 4°C, washed in PBS buffer, and incubated with the secondary antibody bound to the Alexa 594 fluorochrome for 1 hour. Fluorescence is read on a Cytation 5 imaging spectrophotometer (Biotek) with appropriate filters.Fluorescence measurements by image analysis are performed on common acquisition parameters.

[0216] The study is based on 3 independent experiments (n=3). The statistical test is a One-Way ANOVA followed by a Tukey post-test to compare the nuclear expression of Nrf2 in untreated normal human keratinocyte cultures versus normal human keratinocyte cultures treated with extract 1A (Pdo solvent) or extract 2A (BGP115 solvent) of Cananga odorata flower cakes.

[0217] Results.

[0218] We quantified the transcriptomic expression of the "night" gene (BMAL1) and the "day" gene (PER3) in normal human keratinocytes, previously synchronized with dexamethasone.

[0219] The antiphase expression of the "night" gene (BMAL1) and the "day" gene (PER3) is confirmed in the T24h to T30h time window. Therefore, keratinocytes are synchronized and in "night" mode during this time window, which corresponds to the 6 hours of treatment of keratinocytes with extracts 1A (Pdo solvent) or 2A (BGP115 solvent) of Cananga odorata flower cakes.

[0220] After validating keratinocyte synchronization in "night" mode, we quantified Nrf2 nuclear expression in the nuclei of normal human keratinocytes treated or untreated with extract 1A (Pdo solvent) or extract 2A (BGP115 solvent) of Cananga odorata flower meal. Results are expressed as the percentage of Nrf2-translocated cells per total cell count. Values ​​are expressed as mean ± standard deviation across three independent experiments (n=3). A one-way ANOVA followed by a Tukey post-test was performed against the untreated condition. Results are shown in Table 18 below. [Table 18]

[0221] Table 18: Translocated Nrf2 cells (as a percentage of total cells) in overnight cultures of normal human keratinocytes in monolayer, treated for 6 hours (between T24h and T30h) with extract 1A (Pdo solvent) of Cananga odorata flower meal at 0.5%. One-way ANOVA followed by a Tukey post-test was performed versus the untreated condition.

[0222] Extract 1A (Pdo solvent) of Cananga odorata flower cake obtained according to the invention significantly increases the translocation of the transcription factor Nrf2 (52% in extract 1A at 0.5% vs. 23% for the untreated condition) into the nucleus of normal human keratinocytes, previously synchronized with dexamethasone, compared to the untreated condition. The extraction solvent alone does not induce an increase in Nrf2 translocation into the keratinocyte nucleus (data not shown). Extract 1A (Pdo solvent) activates the Nrf2 antioxidant pathway in the nucleus of synchronized keratinocytes, in a "nighttime" mode. The results are recorded in Table 19 below. [Table 19]

[0223] Table 19: Translocated Nrf2 cells (as a percentage of total cells) in monolayer cultures of normal human keratinocytes in "overnight" mode treated for 6 h (between T24h and T30h) with extract 2A (solvent BGP1 15) of 0.5% Cananga odorata flower meal. Values ​​are expressed as mean ± standard deviation over 3 independent experiments (n=3). A one-way ANOVA followed by a Tukey post-test was performed against the untreated condition.

[0224] Extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower cake obtained according to the invention significantly increases the translocation of the transcription factor Nrf2 (46% in extract 2A at 0.5% vs. 23% for the untreated condition) into the nucleus of normal human keratinocytes, previously synchronized with dexamethasone, compared to the untreated condition. The extraction solvent alone does not induce an increase in Nrf2 translocation into the keratinocyte nucleus (data not shown). Extract 2A (solvent BGP115) activates the Nrf2 antioxidant pathway in the nucleus of synchronized keratinocytes, in a "nighttime" mode.

[0225] Extract 1A (Pdo solvent) and extract 2A (BGP1 15 solvent) of Cananga odorata flower cakes obtained according to the invention retain their level of efficacy in translocating the Nrf2 transcription factor into the nucleus of synchronized keratinocytes in "night" mode. Thus, extracts 1A (Pdo solvent) and 2A (BGP1 15 solvent) function in both "day" and "night" modes.

[0226] Example 7: Effect of extract 1A (solvent Pdo) and extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower cakes on the level of oxidation, carbonylation of proteins in human skin expiants stressed by photo-pollution (exposure to urban particles followed by UVA irradiation) (Service provided by Oxiproteomics).

[0227] Principle of method.

[0228] The company Oxiproteomics used the patented "OxiProteomics® fluorescent probe" technique to visualize in situ oxidatively damaged (carbonylated) proteins on skin expiants treated with extract 1A (solvent Pdo) or extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower cakes at 0.5%, 1% and 2%, before being exposed to pollution and UVA.

[0229] Protocol.

[0230] Skin excipients were obtained with the informed consent of a 30-year-old Caucasian man (phototype II-III) who had undergone abdominal surgery. Extract 1A (solvent PDO) or extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower meal was applied topically to the skin excipients (30 µl / cm²) at concentrations of 0.5%, 1%, and 2% for 24 hours. The skin excipients were then subjected to stress conditions: a solution containing fine dust (0.375 µg / cm²; Fine Dust PM10-like; ERMCZ100 Sigma-Aldrich) was applied topically for 30 minutes before UVA irradiation (6 J / cm²) using the OxiProteomics® irradiation system.

[0231] After exposure to stress, the skin excipients are transferred to fresh culture medium for 2 hours. Untreated, unstressed skin excipients are used as controls. After 2 hours of recovery, the skin samples are transferred to a cryogenic embedding medium, OCT (Optimal Cutting Temperature compound) for cryopreservation, frozen in liquid nitrogen, and stored at -80°C until analysis.

[0232] Five-micrometer skin sections were obtained using a cryostat and then fixed. Proteins damaged by oxidation (carbonylation) were labeled using a functionalized fluorescent probe, the "OxiProteomics® fluorescent probe" (a technique patented by Oxiproteomics), designed to bind specifically to carbonyl groups and DAPI for nuclear labeling. Fluorescence images were collected using an epifluorescence microscope (EVOS M5000 Imaging System) and analyzed with ImageJ software (Schneider, 2012).

[0233] Carbonylation intensity was determined by integrating the specific fluorescence signal normalized by the evaluated area. In each image, carbonylation levels were quantified independently for the different anatomical compartments (dermis, epidermis) and for the entire tissue. Three images per condition (one image per expiry) were used to quantify carbonylation levels. The mean and standard deviation were obtained for each condition and anatomical compartment. Data processing and statistical analysis were performed using graphPad Prism.

[0234] Results.

[0235] In situ detection of protein oxidation and carbonylation levels was performed using epifluorescence microscopy. Densitometric analysis of the in situ carbonylation signal was conducted using ImageJ software. Three images per condition were analyzed. The results are presented for the whole skin and by anatomical compartment, namely the epidermis and dermis. Stress, specifically the application of urban particles to the surface of skin excipients followed by UVA irradiation, induces an increase in the level of protein carbonylation in the tissues.

[0236] The results for extract 1 A (solvent Pdo) are recorded in Tables 20 to 22 below. [Table 20]

[0237] Table 20: Quantification of the level of oxidation, protein carbonylation (%) in the epidermis and dermis of skin explants treated for 24h with extract 1 A (Pdo solvent) of Cananga odorata flower cakes at 0.5%, 1% and 2%, then stressed with the topical application of urban particles (0.375pg / cm2; Fine Dust PM10-like; ERMCZ100) followed by UVA irradiation (6J / cm2).

[0238] [Table 21]

[0239] Table 21: Quantification of the level of oxidation, protein carbonylation (%) in the epidermis of skin explants treated for 24h with extract 1 A (Pdo solvent) of Cananga odorata flower cakes at 0.5%, 1% and 2%, then stressed with the topical application of urban particles (0.375pg / cm2;

[0240] Fine Dust PM10-like; ERMCZ100) followed by UVA irradiation (6J / cm2).

[0241] [Table 22] Table 22: Quantification of the level of oxidation and protein carbonylation (%) in the dermis of skin explants treated for 24 hours with extract 1A (PDO solvent) of Cananga odorata flower meal at 0.5%, 1%, and 2%, then stressed with the topical application of urban particles (0.375 pg / cm²; Fine Dust PM10-like; ERMCZ100) followed by UVA irradiation (6 J / cm²). As expected, exposure of the skin explants to photopollution induced a significant increase in the level of oxidation and protein carbonylation in all skin compartments, including the epidermis and dermis.Treatment of skin expiants with extract 1A (lot D19587, solvent Pdo) of Cananga odorata flower cake showed significant protection against stress-induced protein carbonylation in whole skin tissue (-41% ± 4 vs stress at 0.5%, p<0.001), including the epidermis (-40% ± 6 vs stress at 0.5%, p<0.001) and the dermis (-45% ± 6 vs stress at 0.5%, p<0.001).

[0242] The results for extract 2A (solvent BGP115) are recorded in the following tables 23 to 25.

[0243] [Table 23]

[0244] Table 23: Quantification of the level of oxidation and protein carbonylation (%) in the epidermis and dermis of skin explants treated for 24 hours with extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower cake at 0.5%, 1%, and 2%, then stressed with the topical application of urban particles (0.375 pg / cm²; Fine Dust PM10-like; ERMCZ100) followed by UVA irradiation (6 J / cm²). [Table 24]

[0245] Table 24: Quantification of the level of oxidation, protein carbonylation (%) in the epidermis of skin explants treated for 24h with extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower cakes at 0.5%, 1% and 2%, then stressed with the topical application of urban particles (0.375pg / cm2; Fine Dust PM10-like; ERMCZ100) followed by UVA irradiation (6J / cm2).

[0246] [Table 25] Table 25: Quantification of the level of oxidation and protein carbonylation (%) in the dermis of skin explants treated for 24 hours with extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower meal at 0.5%, 1%, and 2%, then stressed with the topical application of urban particles (0.375 pg / cm²; Fine Dust PM10-like; ERMCZ100) followed by UVA irradiation (6 J / cm²). As expected, exposure of the skin explants to photopollution induces a significant increase in the level of oxidation and protein carbonylation in all skin compartments, including the epidermis and dermis.Treatment of skin expiants with extract 2A (solvent BGP115) of Cananga odorata flower cake showed significant protection against stress-induced protein carbonylation in whole skin tissue (-41% ± 6 vs stress at 0.5%, p<0.001), including the epidermis (-41% ± 3 vs stress at 0.5%, p<0.001) and the dermis (-45% ± 2 vs stress at 0.5%, p<0.001).

[0247] Example 8: Composition Examples

[0248] Compositions have been formulated with extracts of Cananga odorata 1A (solvent Pdo), 2A (solvent BGP115), and 3A (solvent SPG115) according to the invention. A serum composition is described in Table 26. A night cream composition is described in Table 27. A mask composition is described in Table 28.

[0249] SERUM

[0250] [Table 26] NIGHT CREAM

[0251] [Table 27]

[0252] MASK [Table 28] Extracts 1A (solvent Pdo), 2A (solvent BGP115) and 3A (solvent SPG1 15) incorporate perfectly into the compositions and provide the expected benefits as described in the previous examples.

[0253] Extracts 1A (PDO solvent), 2A (BGP115 solvent), and 3A (SPG115 solvent) have the advantage of being usable directly by the formulator for the preparation of cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions, without requiring prior solvent removal from the extract. These extraction solvents are considered "ingredient" solvents, meaning they can be used in the composition of these cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations. They are compatible and non-toxic to humans and the environment.

Claims

Demands 1. A process for valorizing Cananga odorata plant waste to obtain a Cananga odorata extract, said process comprising a first solid / liquid extraction step carried out on said plant waste using an extraction solvent, followed by a second solid / liquid separation step and a third recovery step of the liquid phase constituting the extract, characterized in that: - said Cananga odorata plant waste consists of a cake obtained from Ylang Ylang flowers; and - said extraction solvent comprises at least one diol comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms.

2. A process according to claim 1, characterized in that said cake is fresh or dry, whole or ground, obtained from fresh or dried Ylang Ylang flowers.

3. A process according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that said at least one diol comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms represents at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the extraction solvent.

4. A process according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the extraction solvent is either made up of a diol comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms, or made up of a mixture of betaine, glycerin and a diol comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms, or made up of a mixture of sorbitol, a diol comprising 3 to 4 carbon atoms and glycerin.

5. A process according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the extraction solvent consists either of a mixture of betaine, glycerin and a diol comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms in molar proportions between 1:1:3 and 1:1:7, preferably 1:1:5, or of a mixture of sorbitol, a diol comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms, and glycerin in molar proportions between 1:1:3 and 1:1:7, preferably 1:1:5, the diol comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms being preferably propanediol, the extraction solvent being preferably a NaDES solvent.

6. Extract of Cananga odorata obtained according to the process according to any one of claims 1 to 5.

7. Extract of Cananga odorata characterized in that it comprises a content of allergenic compounds less than 0.1% by weight in relation to the total weight of the extract, the allergenic compounds being defined according to Commission Regulation (EU) 2023 / 1545 of 26 July 2023 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.

8. Extract of Cananga odorata according to one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that it is non-oily and contains less than 20% by weight of water.

9. Non-therapeutic use of the Cananga odorata extract obtained according to the process of any one of claims 1 to 5, or of the extract according to any one of claims 6 to 8, or of a composition comprising it, for the cosmetic treatment of the skin and / or mucous membranes, for the improvement of appearance of the skin and / or mucous membranes, for the improvement of skin resistance and / or elasticity, and / or for the treatment or prevention of skin aging, wrinkles, or sagging skin.

10. Non-therapeutic use of the Cananga odorata extract obtained according to the process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, or of the extract according to any one of claims 6 to 8, or of a composition comprising it, to combat skin aging and / or protect the skin from external aggressions.

11. Non-therapeutic use of the Cananga odorata extract obtained according to the process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, or of the extract according to any one of claims 6 to 8, or of a composition comprising it, to increase skin hydration, and / or strengthen the skin barrier function, and / or improve skin microrelief, and / or improve skin radiance and tone.

12. Non-therapeutic use of the Cananga odorata extract obtained according to the process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, or of the extract according to any one of claims 6 to 8, or of a composition comprising it, to increase the transcriptomic expression of antioxidant enzymes and / or to stimulate the Nrf2 antioxidant pathway in skin tissue.

13. Non-therapeutic use of the Cananga odorata extract obtained according to the process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, or of the extract according to any one of claims 6 to 8, or of a composition comprising it, to increase protection against stress-induced protein carbonylation in skin tissue.

14. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising at least the extract of Cananga odorata obtained according to the process according to one of claims 1 to 5, or the extract according to one of claims 6 to 8.

15. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the extract of Cananga odorata represents between 0.1% and 10% by weight of said composition.

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