Cosmetic composition with a gelled aqueous phase comprising a microorganism of the genus bifidobacterium species and cosmetic use thereof

Abstract

Composition comprising at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, a fraction thereof, a metabolite thereof or mixtures thereof, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form; at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers and amphiphilic acrylic polymers, hyaluronic acid and / or a derivative thereof, at least one polyol, and at least one fatty phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil; and the cosmetic use thereof.

Description

Cosmetic composition with a gelled aqueous phase comprising a microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and cosmetic use thereof

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of compositions, notably cosmetic compositions, comprising at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, to a fraction thereof, to a metabolite thereof or to mixtures thereof, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form, and dedicated more particularly to skincare.

[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.Prior art

[0003] The present invention relates to a composition, notably a cosmetic, non-therapeutic composition, notably for caring for keratin materials, comprising:

[0004] - at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, a fraction thereof, a metabolite thereof or mixtures thereof, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form;

[0005] - at least one aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers and amphiphilic acrylic polymers;

[0006] - hyaluronic acid and / or a derivative thereof;

[0007] - at least one polyol; and

[0008] - at least one fatty phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil; and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for caring for and treating keratin materials, and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up the bodily or facial skin.

[0009] It is known practice to introduce active agents into cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions with a view to combating the signs of ageing and / or improving the radiance of the complexion.

[0010] Among these active agents, microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species, a fraction thereof, a metabolite thereof or mixtures thereof, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form, are known to accelerate epidermal renewal. Due to their properties, they are thus particularly advantageous for combating the signs of skin ageing, for example for attenuating fine lines and / or wrinkles in the skin, and for improving the radiance of the complexion. Thus, it has long been sought to formulate microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species, a fraction thereof, a metabolite thereof or mixtures thereof, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form, in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, in various presentation forms, and in particular in large amounts to take maximum advantage of their properties.

[0011] One of the major drawbacks of compositions containing microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species, a fraction thereof, a metabolite thereof or mixtures thereof, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form, lies in the difficulty of reconciling good product stability over time with good sensory properties such as freshness on application, good glidance properties on application and good efficacy for attenuating fine lines and / or wrinkles in the skin and for improving the radiance of the complexion. This difficulty is further exacerbated when the cosmetic compositions also comprise moisturizing agents, for instance polyols such as glycerol. Specifically, the combined use of these starting materials in compositions for caring for keratin materials tends to deteriorate their sensory qualities, for example when they are applied to the skin. In addition, the skin finish is also impaired, resulting in stickier formulas with less glidance and less freshness on the skin.

[0012] In other words, the aim of the invention is to develop a product with an advantageous sensory aspect, notably with good spreading properties (glidant formulas), providing a soft feel and free of any undesirable sensory or visual phenomena. To achieve such a sensory aspect, it is notably known practice to use silicone compounds.

[0013] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing towards meeting the global challenges.

[0014] It thus proves essential to offer more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus making it possible to meet these environmental challenges, notably by promoting the use of renewable starting materials and / or those with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while at the same time significantly reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0015] One object of the present invention is precisely to propose a presentation formulation which enables all the above requirements to be met, and more particularly without resorting to the use of silicone compounds and / or mono-alkanols and / or polyethylene glycol (PEG).

[0016] The present invention is precisely directed towards meeting these needs.Summary of the invention

[0017] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, notably a non-therapeutic cosmetic composition, in particular for caring for keratin materials, comprising:

[0018] - at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, a fraction thereof, a metabolite thereof or mixtures thereof, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form;

[0019] - at least one aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers and amphiphilic acrylic polymers;

[0020] - hyaluronic acid and / or a derivative thereof;

[0021] - at least one polyol; and

[0022] - at least one fatty phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil.

[0023] In a particular embodiment, the microorganism(s) of the genus Bifidobacterium species are chosen from the following species:Bifidobacterium longum,Bifidobacterium bifidum,Bifidobacterium breve,Bifidobacterium animalis,Bifidobacterium lactis,Bifidobacterium infantis,Bifidobacterium adolescentis,Bifidobacterium pseudobacteriumand mixtures thereof; preferably, the microorganism isBifidobacterium longum; and the total content, expressed as active material, of the lysate of the microorganism(s) of the genus Bifidobacterium species ranges from 1% to 20% by weight of active material, more preferentially from 5% to 15% by weight, better still from 8% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] In a particular embodiment, the at least one hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer and / or amphiphilic acrylic polymer is chosen from:

[0025] i) AMPS homopolymers comprising, distributed at random:

[0026] a) from 90% to 99.9% by weight of units of general formula (I) below:

[0027] (I)

[0028] in which X+ denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion, not more than 10 mol% of the cations X+ possibly being protons H+;

[0029] b) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of crosslinking units originating from at least one monomer containing at least two olefinic double bonds, the weight proportions being defined relative to the total weight of the homopolymer, and

[0030] ii) copolymers of AMPS and polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate (optionally crosslinked). Preferably, the at least one hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer and / or amphiphilic acrylic polymer is chosen from crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and / or optionally crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate, and preferably ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate and / or crosslinked ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate polymer, and is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one other hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from non-starchy polysaccharides, preferably xanthan gum.

[0032] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises hyaluronic acid or a derivative or mixture thereof in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 2% by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight (of active material), better still ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] In a particular embodiment, the polyol(s) are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5% to 12% by weight, better still from 6% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] In a particular embodiment, the at least one non-volatile oil is chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, and preferably chosen from C15-19 alkanes, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl adipate, dicaprylyl ether, squalane and / or octyldodecanol, and preferably squalane and / or octyldodecanol, and the composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 4% by weight, preferentially less than 3%, preferentially less than 2% by weight of fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from alkylpolyglucosides.

[0036] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone compounds and / or mono-alkanols and / or polyethylene glycol (PEG).

[0037] As illustrated in the examples hereinbelow, the inventors have discovered that the combination of starting materials according to the invention makes it possible to obtain compositions with advantageous sensory properties, and in particular freshness on application, good glidance, and absence of a feeling of tackiness on the skin, while at the same time attenuating fine lines and / or wrinkles in the skin, and improving the radiance of the complexion and the radiance of the skin.

[0038] The compositions according to the present invention advantageously enable ingredients of various kinds such as cosmetic active agents, particles, polymers, fragrances, dyes or nacres to be conveyed, depending on the various benefit(s) desired.

[0039] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to these keratin materials, in particular the topical application to these keratin materials, of a composition as defined previously.

[0040] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the detailed description that follows.Detailed description

[0041] The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and / or dermatological, and is preferably cosmetic.

[0042] The term “cosmetic” refers to a composition that is compatible with the skin and the integuments. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0043] The term “keratin materials” in particular denotes the skin, the scalp, keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, head hair, bodily hair, the nails, and mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (of the body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids or lips, preferably of the body, face and lips).

[0044] The term “the skin” means all the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, the scalp, the neckline, the neck, the arms and forearms, the eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back of the knees, the hands, the wrists and the ankles, or even more preferably the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, the nose, the cheeks and the chin), the neckline and the neck.

[0045] A composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. one which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not give rise to any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. tingling, tautness or redness, that is liable to discourage the user from applying this composition.

[0046] As used herein, the terms “treat” and “treatment” are intended to denote the alleviation of the symptoms associated with a specific disorder or condition and / or the elimination of said symptoms and also the complete disappearance of the disorder or condition in question.

[0047] In the context of the present invention, the term “preventing” or “prevention” means, according to the invention, reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of ageing of a keratin material.

[0048] In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0049] Moreover, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in the present description are equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal to”, respectively.

[0050] Microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species

[0051] The composition used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species, a fraction thereof, a metabolite thereof or mixtures thereof, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form.

[0052] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “metabolite” means any substance resulting from the metabolism of the microorganism(s) of the genus Bifidobacterium species and also having effectiveness in accelerating epidermal renewal.

[0053] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fraction” means a fragment of the microorganism(s) having effectiveness in accelerating epidermal renewal, by analogy with the whole microorganism(s).

[0054] A lysate commonly denotes a material obtained after the destruction or the dissolution of biological cells by a phenomenon referred to as cell lysis, thus causing the release of the intracellular biological constituents naturally contained in the cells of the microorganism in question.

[0055] In the context of the present invention, the term “lysate” is used without preference to denote all of the lysate obtained by lysis of the microorganism in question or only a fraction thereof. The lysate used is thus formed completely or partially of the intracellular biological constituents and of the constituents of the cell walls and cell membranes. More specifically, the lysate contains the cellular cytoplasmic fraction containing enzymes, such as lactic acid dehydrogenase, phosphatases, phosphoketolases or transaldolases, and the metabolites.

[0056] By way of illustration, the constituents of the cell walls are in particular peptidoglycan, murein or mucopeptide and teichoic acid, and the constituents of the cell membranes are composed of glycerophospholipids. This cell lysis can be performed via various techniques, for example by osmotic shock, by thermal shock, by ultrasound, or under a mechanical stress, for example by centrifugation.

[0057] More particularly, this lysate may be obtained according to the technology described in patent US 4 464 362 and especially according to the following protocol. The microorganism(s) of the genus Bifidobacterium species are preferably cultured under anaerobiosis in an appropriate culture medium, for example according to the conditions described in US 4 464 362 and EP 43 128. When the stationary phase of development is reached, the culture medium can be inactivated by pasteurization, at a temperature ranging, for example, from 60 to 65°C, for 30 minutes. The microorganism(s) thus formed are subsequently collected by a conventional separation technique, such as membrane filtration or centrifugation, and are then resuspended in a sterile physiological solution of NaCl. The lysate of these microorganisms can subsequently be obtained by ultrasonic disintegration of the solution obtained above, so as to release the cytoplasmic fractions, the cell wall fragments and the products resulting from metabolism. All the components, in their natural distribution, are subsequently stabilized in a weakly acidic aqueous solution.

[0058] The total content of active material(s), present in the lysate obtained by this process, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, and better still this content is 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lysate. The lysate can be used in various forms, in particular in the form of a solution or in pulverulent form.

[0059] Preferably, the microorganism(s) of the genus Bifidobacterium species are chosen from the following species:Bifidobacterium longum,Bifidobacterium bifidum,Bifidobacterium breve,Bifidobacteriumanimalis,Bifidobacterium lactis,Bifidobacteriuminfantis,Bifidobacteriumadolescentis,Bifidobacteriumpseudobacterium, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species isBifidobacterium longum.

[0060] As lysate that may be used for the purposes of the invention, mention may notably be made of the ingredient having the INCI name: Bifida Ferment Lysate. By way of example, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name Repair Complex CLR® by K. Richter GmbH, and which is formed from an inactivated lysate of the speciesBifidobacterium longum.

[0061] The total content, expressed as active material, of the lysate of the microorganism(s) of the genus Bifidobacterium species, present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 1% to 20% by weight of active material, more preferentially from 5% to 15% by weight, better still from 8% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Hydrophilic gelling agents

[0062] According to the first aspect, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one gelling agent chosen from hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers and amphiphilic acrylic polymers.a-Hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers

[0063] According to the invention, the expression “hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers” notably means non-hydrophobic and non-amphiphilic acrylic homopolymers.

[0064] The presence of this hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer notably affords a composition with good stability properties.

[0065] According to one embodiment, the hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer comprises at least one monomer bearing a sulfonic group.

[0066] The homopolymers used in accordance with the invention are homopolymers that can be obtained from an ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, which may be in free form or in partially or totally neutralized form.

[0067] Preferentially, the homopolymers are partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for example arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are generally neutralized.

[0068] In the present invention, the term ‘“neutralized’” refers to homopolymers which are totally or virtually totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.

[0069] The homopolymers used in the composition of the invention generally have a number-average molecular mass ranging from 1000 to 20 000 000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 20 000 to 5 000 000 and even more preferentially from 100 000 to 1 500 000 g / mol.

[0070] These homopolymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. The monomers bearing a sulfonic group of the homopolymer used in the composition of the invention are notably chosen from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(C1-C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also the partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers bearing a sulfonic group are chosen from (meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for example acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid and 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also the partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®), and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, are used.

[0073] When the homopolymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization.

[0074] As crosslinking agents, mention may be made, for example, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allyl esters of phosphoric acid derivatives and / or of vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0075] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the homopolymer.

[0076] The homopolymer of monomers bearing a sulfonic group may be crosslinked with one or more crosslinking agents.

[0077] These homopolymers are generally crosslinked and neutralized, and they may be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:

[0078] (a) the monomer such as 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of tert-butanol or of water and tert-butanol;

[0079] (b) the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably aqueous ammonia, in an amount so as to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the homopolymer ranging from 90% to 100%;

[0080] (c) the crosslinked monomer(s) are added to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b);

[0081] (d) standard free radical polymerization is performed in the presence of free radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10 to 150°C; the homopolymer precipitates from the tert-butanol-based solution or dispersion.

[0082] Preferred AMPS homopolymers are generally characterized in that they comprise, distributed randomly:

[0083] a) from 90% to 99.9% by weight of units of general formula (I) below:

[0084] (I)

[0085] in which X+ denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion, not more than 10 mol% of the cations X+ possibly being protons H+;

[0086] b) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of crosslinking units originating from at least one monomer containing at least two olefinic double bonds, the weight proportions being defined relative to the total weight of the homopolymer.

[0087] The homopolymers according to the invention that are more particularly preferred comprise from 98% to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (I) and from 0.2% to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.

[0088] A homopolymer of this type that may notably be mentioned is the crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer sold by the company Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin® AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide).b- Amphiphilic acrylic polymers

[0089] Such polymers may be derived from the AMPS® products described previously.

[0090] These polymers comprise both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part comprising at least one fatty chain. They are therefore amphiphilic polymers.

[0091] A fatty chain of such a polymer may comprise from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0092] The AMPS® copolymers in accordance with the invention may have a mass-average molecular mass ranging from 50 000 to 10 000 000, in particular from 100 000 to 8 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 7 000 000.

[0093] The AMPS® copolymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0094] Among the crosslinking agents that are suitable for use, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).

[0095] The degree of crosslinking may range from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and in particular from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

[0096] An amphiphilic AMPS® polymer that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen, for example, from statistical amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154.

[0097] These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or alkyl-substituted derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with mono- or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, itaconic acid and maleic acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0098] A polymer of the invention may be chosen from amphiphilic polymers of AMPS® and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0099] The hydrophobic part may be a saturated or unsaturated linear (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl), branched (for example isostearic) or cyclic (for example cyclododecane or adamantane) alkyl radical.

[0100] An ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (1I) below:

[0101] (II)

[0102] in which:

[0103] R27 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl);

[0104] Y denotes O or NH;

[0105] R28 denotes a hydrophobic radical comprising a fatty chain containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0106] The hydrophobic radical R28 is chosen from saturated or unsaturated linear C7-C22 alkyl radicals (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl), branched alkyl radicals (for example isostearic) or cyclic alkyl radicals (for example cyclododecane or adamantane); C7-C18 alkyl­perfluoro radicals (for example the group of formula (CH2)2(CF2)9-CF3); the cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol ester, for example cholesteryl hexanoate; aromatic polycyclic groups, for example naphthalene or pyrene.

[0107] Among these radicals, linear and branched alkyl radicals are more particularly preferred.

[0108] According to one embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic radical R28 may also comprise at least one alkylene oxide unit and in particular a polyoxyalkylene chain.

[0109] A polyoxyalkylene chain may be formed from ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units and even more particularly be formed solely from ethylene oxide units.

[0110] The number of moles of oxyalkylene units may generally range from 1 to 30 mol, more particularly from 2 to 25 mol and even more particularly from 3 to 20 mol.

[0111] Among the amphiphilic AMPS® polymers that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of:

[0112] neutralized or non-neutralized, crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers comprising from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylamide units or C8-C16 alkyl (meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 750 899; terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C6 to C18)alkylacrylamide units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent US-A-5 089 578.

[0113] As amphiphilic polymers that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of polyoxyethylenated copolymers (crosslinked or non-crosslinked) of AMPS® and alkyl methacrylates, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] As amphiphilic polymers that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may also be made of copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS® and of n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl and / or n-octadecyl methacrylate, and also copolymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide, which may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0115] Mention may also be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked amphiphilic copolymers comprising or even formed from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) units of formula (III) below:

[0116] (III)

[0117] in which X may be a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or an ammonium ion;

[0118] and units of formula (IV) below:

[0119] (IV)

[0120] in which:

[0121] n and p, independently of each other, denote a number of moles and range from 0 to 30, in particular from 1 to 25 and more particularly from 3 to 20, with the proviso that n + p is less than or equal to 30, in particular less than 25 and more particularly less than 20;

[0122] R27 has the same meaning as that indicated in the preceding formula (II), and

[0123] R29 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 7 to 22 and preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0124] In formula (III), the cation X may more particularly denote sodium or ammonium. Mention may in particular be made of:

[0125] non-crosslinked polymers for which p = 0, n = 7 or 25, R27 denotes methyl and R29 represents a mixture of C12-C14 or C16-C18 alkyl, and

[0126] crosslinked polymers for which p = 0, n = 8 or 25, R27 denotes methyl and R29 represents a mixture of C16-C18 alkyl.

[0127] These polymers are described and synthesized in document EP 1 069 142.

[0128] These particular amphiphilic polymers may be obtained according to the standard processes of free-radical polymerization in the presence of one or more initiators, for instance azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, 2,2-azobis(2-amidinopropane) hydrochloride (ABAH), organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide or tert-butyl hydroperoxide, etc., mineral peroxide compounds such as potassium persulfate or ammonium persulfate, or H2O2optionally in the presence of reducing agents.

[0129] These amphiphilic polymers may be obtained by free-radical polymerization in tert-butanol medium, from which they precipitate.

[0130] By using precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol, it is possible to obtain a size distribution of the polymer particles that is particularly favourable for its uses.

[0131] The reaction may be performed at a temperature of between 0 and 150°C and preferably between 10 and 100°C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure.

[0132] The reaction may also be performed under inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen.

[0133] A polymer in accordance with the invention may be partially or totally neutralized with a mineral or organic base such as those mentioned above.

[0134] The molar percentage concentration of the units of formula (III) and of the units of formula (IV) in an amphiphilic polymer according to the invention may vary as a function of the desired cosmetic application, the nature of the emulsion (oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion) and the rheological properties of the desired formulation.

[0135] It can range between 0.1 and 99.9 mol%.

[0136] The molar proportion of units of formula (IV) in an amphiphilic polymer according to the invention may preferably range from 0.1% to 50%, more particularly from 1% to 25% and even more particularly from 3% to 10%.

[0137] The molar proportion of units of formula (IV) in an amphiphilic polymer according to the invention may preferably range from 50.1% to 99.9%, more particularly from 60% to 95% and even more particularly from 65% to 90%.

[0138] The distribution of the monomers in the polymers of the invention may be, for example, alternate, block (including multiblock) or statistical (random).

[0139] As a guide, and without this being limiting, mention may be made of the following commercial references: Aristoflex® HMS and Aristoflex® HMB sold by Clariant, these two references relating to crosslinked polymers.

[0140] Aristoflex® HMS is the name of the 80 / 20 AMPS® / cetearyl methacrylate copolymer, ethoxylated (25 EO), crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) or ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / stearate-25 methacrylate crosspolymer as the INCI name.

[0141] As the INCI name, Aristoflex® HMB is ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer.

[0142] It is also possible to use, as hydrophobic AMPS copolymer, non-crosslinked AMPS® copolymers (Aristoflex® LNC or SNC), which are also effective in terms of stabilizing emulsions.

[0143] As the INCI name, Aristoflex® LNC is ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Laureth-7 methacrylate copolymer.

[0144] As the INCI name, Aristoflex® SNC is ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer.

[0145] Among the acrylic polymers that may be combined with a combination in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of neutralized crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers.

[0146] A preferred hydrophilic gelling agent of the present invention is ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, also known under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS®, and commercially available from the supplier Clariant. It is also described as poly(acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid) (AMPS®) partially neutralized with aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked.

[0147] Other preferred hydrophilic gelling agents of the present invention are copolymers of AMPS and of polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate (optionally crosslinked), and mixtures thereof such as ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, available under the trade name Aristoflex HMS; ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, available under the trade name Aristoflex SNC; and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, available under the trade names Aristoflex AVC, Aristoflex JQD, Hostacerin SAF, all commercially available from the supplier Clariant.

[0148] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one neutralized crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer and / or at least one optionally crosslinked copolymer of AMPS and of polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate.

[0149] According to a more preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate and / or an ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer.

[0150] Advantageously, the at least one hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer and / or amphiphilic acrylic polymer may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] According to one embodiment, the at least one hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer and / or amphiphilic acrylic polymer may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0152] Gelling agent chosen from non-starchy polysaccharides

[0153] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one other hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from non-starchy polysaccharides.

[0154] The non-starchy polysaccharides may be chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, polysaccharides isolated from algae, and higher plant polysaccharides, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and derivatives thereof or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans and pectins, and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.

[0155] In particular, the non-starchy polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, acacia gums, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic derivatives thereof, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof.

[0156] More particularly, the non-starchy polysaccharides may be chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin and pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

[0157] Preferably, the non-starchy polysaccharide is xanthan gum.

[0158] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, of at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from non-starchy polysaccharides, relative to the total weight of the composition.Hyaluronic acid and / or a salt thereof

[0159] The composition according to the invention also comprises hyaluronic acid and / or a derivative thereof.

[0160] Hyaluronic acid belongs to the glycosaminoglycan (GAG) family.

[0161] GAGs are linear chains composed of a repetition of a basic diholoside always containing a hexosamine (glucosamine or galactosamine) and another saccharide (glucuronic acid, iduronic acid or galactose). Glucosamine is either N-sulfated or N-acetylated. On the other hand, galactosamine is always N-acetylated. In addition, there may be O-linked sulfates on hexosamine, uronic acid and galactose.

[0162] Hyaluronic acid or hyaluronan (HA) is the main GAG of the dermis, the latter containing half the HA of the body.

[0163] It is a polysaccharide made up of disaccharides which are themselves composed of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine linked together via alternating beta-1,4 and beta-1,3 glycoside bonds. It plays an important role in the moisturizing and elasticity of the skin.

[0164] In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof” also comprises the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, according to a sequence with alternating β(1,4) and β(1,3) glycosidic bonds, having a molecular weight (MW) which may range between 380 and 13 000 000 daltons. This molecular weight mainly depends on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or on the preparation methods.

[0165] Thus, the term “hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof” comprises all of the hyaluronic acid fractions or subunits having a molecular weight notably within the molecular weight range recalled above.

[0166] In particular, the hyaluronic acid fractions that are suitable for use in the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50 000 and 5 000 000, in particular between 100 000 and 5 000 000, notably between 400 000 and 5 000 000 Da. It is a matter in this case of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0167] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may also be suitable for the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50 000 and 400 000 Da. It is a matter in this case of intermediate molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0168] Alternatively also, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may be suitable for the application intended by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50 000 Da. It is a matter in this case of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0169] Finally, the term “hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof” also comprises esters of hyaluronic acid, in particular those in which all or some of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with oxyethylenated alkyls or alcohols comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution on the D-glucuronic acid of the hyaluronic acid varying from 0.5% to 50%.

[0170] Mention may in particular be made of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have in particular been described in D. Campocciaet al., “Semisynthetic Resorbable Materials from Hyaluronan Esterification”, Biomaterials, 19 (1998), 2101-2127.

[0171] The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for the hyaluronic acid esters.

[0172] In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is in the form of spheres. In particular, such spheres are sold by the company BASF under the name Hyaluronic Acid Spheres. This is a mixture of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, namely of MW 1.5 x 106, 400 000 and 600 000 Da.

[0173] In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof” also comprises hyaluronic acid salts and notably alkali metal salts such as the sodium salt (sodium hyaluronate) and the potassium salt (potassium hyaluronate).

[0174] Sodium hyaluronate will preferably be used according to the invention.

[0175] Hyaluronic acid may notably be sold by the company Hyactive under the trade name CPN (MW: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (MW: 1.1×106), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra HA (MW: 820 000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra AF (MW: 69 000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Oligo HA (MW: 6100 Da) or by the company Vam Farma Cosmetica under the name D Factor (MW: 380 Da).

[0176] In a preferred embodiment, hyaluronic acid or a derivative or mixture thereof is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 2% by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight (of active material), better still ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0177] Nonionicsurfactants preferably chosen fromalkylpolyglucosides

[0178] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also optionally comprise a nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from alkylpolyglucosides.

[0179] Alkylpolyglucosides (APGs) belong to the alkylpolyglycoside family and generally correspond to the following structure:

[0180] R(O)(G)x

[0181] in which the radical R is a linear or branched C12-C22alkyl radical, G is a glucose residue and x ranges from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5 and more preferentially from 1.1 to 2.

[0182] According to the invention, the term “alkylpolyglucoside” (APG) also covers polyalkyl(poly)glucosides. Alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides that are preferably used are those containing an alkyl group including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18 or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5 and notably 1, 2 or 3 glucoside units. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen, for example, from decylglucoside (alkyl-C9 / C11-polyglucoside (1.4)), for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by the company Henkel and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis or Oramix CG 110® by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by the company Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by the company Henkel; caprylylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by the company Cognis; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the APG is decyl glucoside.

[0183] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.015% to 7%, preferably from 0.01% to 5% and preferentially from 0.02% to 1% by weight of surfactants relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.Fatty phase

[0184] The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0185] The fatty phase may be constituted of all the fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields; it may in particular comprise at least one oil.

[0186] The term “oil” means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C±5°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, and of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0187] For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0188] The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapour pressure of less than 10-3mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0189] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means any oil predominantly including carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen, and free of silicon atoms. For the purposes of the invention, a hydrocarbon-based oil is thus not a silicone oil. Thus, these oils may notably contain one or more ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0190] As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may notably be made of:

[0191] (i) hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally fatty acid triesters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from C4to C24, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are notably wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil and musk rose oil; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;

[0192] (ii) synthetic ethers of formula R1-O-R2 in which R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C6-C24 alkyl group, preferably a C6-C18 alkyl group, and preferably a C8-C12 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. Linear alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group. Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, a 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group and a 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group. As cyclic alkyl groups, mention may be made of a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention may notably comprise dicaprylyl ether, such as the reference Cetiol OE sold by BASF;

[0193] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, plant or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, alkanes including from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, notably such as C15-19 alkanes, such as those sold by SEPPIC under the name Emogreen L15 or Emogreen L19, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polyisobutenes, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for instance the Parleam® products sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold by the company Amoco, Viseal 20000 sold by the company Synteal, Rewopal PIB 1000 sold by the company Witco or Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation. Among the preferred linear or branched hydrocarbons of synthetic origin, mention may be made of squalane, which is an oil derived from the hydrogenation of squalene, for instance Neossance Squalane sold by the company Givaudan, and mixtures thereof;

[0194] (iv) synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula RCOOR’ in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R’ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R + R’ ≥ 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by the company Stéarinerie Dubois, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as linear C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; acetates;

[0195] (v) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, bearing a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;

[0196] (vi) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis;

[0197] and mixtures thereof.

[0198] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from C15-19 alkanes, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl adipate, dicaprylyl ether, squalane and / or octyldodecanol, and preferably squalane and / or octyldodecanol.

[0199] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 4% by weight, preferentially less than 3% by weight and more preferentially less than 2% by weight of fatty phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0200] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 4% by weight, and preferentially from 1% to 3% by weight of fatty phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0201] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone compounds. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “free of silicone compounds” means an amount of silicone compounds of less than or equal to 1% by weight, in particular a content of less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably a content of less than or equal to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not comprise any silicone compounds.

[0202] The term “silicone compounds” (also called silicones) means any silicone compounds that are liable to be used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields, i.e. inorganic compounds consisting at least of a mixture of silicon and oxygen, notably including silicone oils, silicone surfactants, dimethylsiloxane polymers, volatile or functionalized silicones, silicone elastomers, silicone resins, phenyl silicones or amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.Aqueous phase

[0203] The aqueous phase of the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least water optionally as a mixture with one or more water-soluble or water-miscible solvents.

[0204] An aqueous phase that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.

[0205] The composition according to the invention may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound such as film-forming polymers, surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0206] Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in a composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 70% by weight, in particular from 75% to 95% by weight, and more particularly from 85% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. The amount of water may represent all or some of the aqueous phase and it is generally at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 60% by weight, better still at least 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Polyols

[0207] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase contains at least one polyol.

[0208] For the purposes of the invention, the term “polyol” means a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least two hydroxyl functions.

[0209] Preferably, the polyol(s) bear a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0210] Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12 and better still from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0211] According to one embodiment, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0212] The polyol(s) may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol, and mixtures thereof.

[0213] According to a particular embodiment, a polyol that is suitable for use in the invention is chosen from glycerol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0214] According to a particular embodiment, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount greater than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 6% by weight and even more preferentially greater than or equal to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0215] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5% to 12% by weight, better still from 6% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0216] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of compounds consisting of a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced with an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, for instance polyethylene glycols (PEG). The term “free of compounds consisting of a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced with an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl functions” is understood, for the purposes of the present invention, to mean an amount of compounds consisting of a saturated linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced with an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, of less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular a content of less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably a content of less than or equal to 0.50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not comprise any compounds comprising a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced with an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl functions.

[0217] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an amount of polyethylene glycol (PEG) of less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular a content of less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably a content of less than or equal to 0.50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not comprise any polyethylene glycol (PEG).

[0218] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of mono-alkanols. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “free of mono-alkanols” means an amount of any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound and a single hydroxyl function (OH) of less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular a content of less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably a content of less than or equal to 0.50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not comprise any mono-alkanols.

[0219] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in particular free of C1-C4 mono-alkanols, i.e. free of any saturated, linear or branched alkane compounds containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and a single hydroxyl (OH) function. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “free of C1-C4 mono-alkanols” means an amount of any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and a single hydroxyl function (OH) of less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular a content of less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably a content of less than or equal to 0.50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not comprise any C1-C4 mono-alkanols, and in particular does not contain any methanol, ethanol, propanol or isopropanol.Cosmetic active ingredients

[0220] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one additional cosmetic active agent.

[0221] In particular, the additional cosmetic active agent may be at least one hydrophilic active agent.

[0222] The term “hydrophilic active agent” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active agent which is capable of forming hydrogen bonds. As hydrophilic active agents, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizers; depigmenting agents; desquamating agents; anti-ageing agents; mattifying agents; cicatrizing agents; antibacterial agents; and mixtures thereof.

[0223] The additional active agent(s) may notably be chosen from:

[0224] - natural extracts;

[0225] - extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria;

[0226] - vitamins and derivatives thereof, such as vitamin C and derivatives thereof, notably esters thereof, or tocopherol (vitamin E) and esters thereof (for instance tocopheryl acetate);

[0227] - moisturizers such as urea and hydroxyureas;

[0228] - antioxidant compounds;

[0229] - anti-ageing active agents, such as salicylic acid compounds and derivatives thereof, adenosine;- and mixtures thereof.

[0230] A person skilled in the art can readily adjust the amount of cosmetic active principle according to the intended use of the composition according to the present invention.Additional adjuvants or additives

[0231] The composition of the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example fragrances, chelating agents (for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, disodium EDTA and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate), preserving agents (for example chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH regulators (for example triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), gelling agents, fillers, dyestuffs and mixtures thereof.

[0232] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s), and / or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisioned addition.Cosmetic composition

[0233] For topical application to keratin materials, and notably the skin, a composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of an aqueous solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type, or else emulsions of liquid consistency obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase.

[0234] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous gel or a serum.

[0235] By way of illustration and without implied limitation of a composition according to the invention, mention may notably be made of compositions whose viscosity ranges from 10 to 90 DU, preferably from 30 to 50 DU, measured with a type 2 spindle according to the protocol detailed in the Materials and Methods section hereinbelow.

[0236] The composition according to the invention may comprise any constituent usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0237] Preferably, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed off after application.

[0238] The composition according to the invention provides long-lasting moisturization, in particular moisturization over a period of 12 hours or more, to the keratin material to which it is applied, in particular facial and / or bodily skin, in particular of the face and / or neck and / or hands.Uses and processes

[0239] Finally, the invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above, for caring for keratin materials, in particular bodily and / or facial skin.

[0240] A subject of the present invention is also the use of a composition as defined above for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, in particular bodily and / or facial skin.

[0241] According to yet another of its aspects, a subject of the invention is also a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular bodily and / or facial skin, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined previously.

[0242] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the colour and / or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one cosmetic composition as defined previously.

[0243] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for moisturizing keratin materials, preferably bodily and / or facial skin, comprising the application to the surface of said keratin materials of at least one cosmetic composition as defined previously.

[0244] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, preferably bodily and / or facial skin, comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined previously.

[0245] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0246] The cosmetic use or process of the invention is performed by topically administering a composition according to the invention.

[0247] Topical administration is constituted of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques for the use of these compositions. Generally, this application may be made directly by finger, or using a woven or non-woven support on which an adjusted amount of said composition has been deposited beforehand.

[0248] The examples that follow illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope thereof.

[0249] In the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the amounts of the ingredients of the compositions are “expressed as % of starting material”, more specifically as % by weight of starting material, relative to to the total weight of the composition.ExamplesMethods and MeasurementsStarting materials

[0250] In the examples below, the compounds are identified by their INCI name:

[0251] Bifida ferment lysate is sold under the name Repair Complex CLR PE-F by the company CLR.

[0252] Sodium hyaluronate is sold under the name Genhyal by the company Givaudan.

[0253] Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate is sold under the name Hostarecin AMPS by the company Clariant.

[0254] Squalane is sold under the name Neossance Squalane by the company Givaudan.

[0255] Octyldodecanol is a product sold under the name Eutanol G / MB by the company BASF.

[0256] Decyl glucoside is sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP by the company BASF.MATERIALS AND METHODSStability measurement

[0257] The stability of the compositions may be evaluated according to the following protocol. The first controls are performed on a composition just after it has been prepared. The composition to be tested is then stored for 2 months at various temperatures: at room temperature or “RT” (about 25°C), at 4°C, at 45°C and / or at 55°C. The temperature may be regulated using an oven, for example of the Bio Concept brand from Firlabo. The properties are evaluated after 10 days, 1 month and / or 2 months of storage under the conditions described above.

[0258] The properties evaluated are:

[0259] - the pH of the composition, measured using a pH-meter;

[0260] - the viscosity of the composition, measured according to the process described below;

[0261] - the appearance of the composition, in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by observation of the composition under a light microscope between slide and coverslip, at X10 magnification;

[0262] - the colour and odour of the composition; and

[0263] phenomena associated with destabilization of the composition will also be observed, such as the appearance of creaming, leaching, coalescence, sedimentation, flocculation, the formation of a film on the surface, mottling, etc.

[0264] The closer the properties of the composition after 10 days, 1 month and / or 2 months of storage remain to those initially measured at 25°C, the more the composition may be considered as remaining stable. In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, with no signs of destabilization and with no change in colour or odour, then it is considered to be stable.Protocol for measuring the glidance:

[0265] The evaluation of the sensory effect consists in evaluating the ease with which the fingers can perform a circular movement during the application of the composition according to the invention by a panel of experts. To evaluate this parameter, 100 µL (2x50) of the composition to be tested are taken using a micropipette, then deposited on the inner face of the forearm. A tactile evaluation of the glidance is performed during the 1st, 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th and 25th rotation. The composition is then spread with the fingers, performing five rotations with the index and middle fingers.

[0266] The glidance is evaluated on a continuous scale ranging from “weak” to “strong”.Protocol for measuring the freshness:

[0267] Evaluation of the sensory aspect consists in evaluating the ability to provide a sensation of freshness on the skin after application of the composition according to the invention by a panel of experts. To evaluate this parameter, 100 µL (2x50) of the composition to be tested are collected using a micropipette, and then applied to the cheek: the sensation of freshness is evaluated during 8.5 rotations performed with the fingers on the cheek.

[0268] The freshness is evaluated on a continuous scale ranging from “weak” to “strong”.Viscosity measurement protocol:

[0269] To measure the viscosity, a Rheomat 100 PLUS viscometer is used with a measurement system comprising a type 2 spindle plus its type 2 cup and a thermostatic bath. The procedure is as follows:

[0270] Install the type 2 spindle in the viscometer and take the blank. Fill the type 2 cup with the composition and place it in the thermostatic bath, immerse the type 2 spindle in the type 2 cup and wait for it to reach a temperature of 25°C. Start the measurement when the type 2 spindle is at the correct temperature and take the reading after 10 min.Example 1: Preparation of a composition

[0271] A composition according to the invention is prepared according to the protocol described hereinbelow. The nature of the ingredients and their respective amounts are given in Table 1. The contents are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0272] Preparation of a composition according to the invention:

[0273] The starting materials of phases A1 and A2 are mixed at room temperature to obtain a transparent liquid. The compounds of phase B are then added with stirring until a smooth, homogeneous phase is obtained. The components of phases C and D are then added.

[0274] PhaseCompounds (INCI name)%A1WaterQSA1Sodium hydroxide0.0345A1Preserving agents0.8A1Glycerol5A1Active agents0.6A1Pentylene glycol3A1Chelating agents0.25A2Bifida Ferment Lysate.10BSodium hyaluronate0.45BAmmonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate0.25BXanthan gum0.1CSqualane1COctyldodecanol0.5DDecyl glucoside0.2DFragrance0.2

[0275] Example 2: Evaluation of the composition according to the invention

[0276] The composition according to the invention was prepared according to Example 1.

[0277] This composition was then tested according to the protocol previously described above in the “Methods and measurements” section.

[0278] The composition according to the invention is stable over time, and has a viscosity, measured according to the process described above, of between 35 DU (M2) and 47 DU (M2).

[0279] The composition according to the invention was also tested on a panel of 160 consumers according to the protocols described above. The results obtained show that the composition according to the invention has the following advantages:

[0280] - a satisfactory appearance, a texture that is easy to apply and spread;

[0281] - on application, the composition has satisfactory glidance. The glidance of this composition is maintained over time during application, although the composition is free of silicone compound oils such as silicone oils and organopolysiloxane elastomers;

[0282] - on application, the composition leaves a sensation of freshness, although the composition is free of monoalcohols;

[0283] - after application of the composition, the skin subjected to the composition has more radiance and a more even complexion. The size of wrinkles and fine lines is also seen to be reduced. Finally, the composition does not leave the skin greasy all day long.

Claims

Composition, notably a non-therapeutic cosmetic composition, in particular for caring for keratin materials, comprising:- at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, a fraction thereof, a metabolite thereof or mixtures thereof, the microorganism(s) being in lysate form;- at least one aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers and amphiphilic acrylic polymers;- hyaluronic acid and / or a derivative thereof;- at least one polyol; and- at least one fatty phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil.Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the microorganism(s) of the genus Bifidobacterium species are chosen from the following species:Bifidobacterium longum,Bifidobacterium bifidum,Bifidobacterium breve,Bifidobacterium animalis,Bifidobacterium lactis,Bifidobacterium infantis,Bifidobacterium adolescentis,Bifidobacterium pseudobacterium, and mixtures thereof; preferably, the microorganism isBifidobacterium longum.Composition according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content, expressed as active material, of the lysate of the microorganism(s) of the genusBifidobacterium speciesranges from 1% to 20% by weight of active material, more preferentially from 5% to 15% by weight, better still from 8% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer and / or amphiphilic acrylic polymer is chosen from:i) AMPS homopolymers comprising, distributed at random:a) from 90% to 99.9% by weight of units of general formula (I) below:(I)in which X+ denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion, not more than 10 mol% of the cations X+ possibly being protons H+;b) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of crosslinking units originating from at least one monomer containing at least two olefinic double bonds, the weight proportions being defined relative to the total weight of the homopolymer, andii) copolymers of AMPS and polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate (optionally crosslinked).Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer and / or amphiphilic acrylic polymer is chosen from crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and / or optionally crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and of polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate, and preferably ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate and / or an ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer and / or amphiphilic acrylic polymer is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one other hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from non-starchy polysaccharides, preferably xanthan gum.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that hyaluronic acid or a derivative or mixture thereof is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 2% by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight (of active material), better still ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol(s) are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5% to 12% by weight and better still from 6% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one non-volatile oil is chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, and preferably chosen from C15-19 alkanes, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl adipate, dicaprylyl ether, squalane and / or octyldodecanol, and preferably squalane and / or octyldodecanol.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 4% by weight, preferentially less than 3% by weight and more preferentially less than 2% by weight of fatty phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from alkylpolyglucosides.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free of silicone compounds and / or mono-alkanols and / or polyethylene glycol (PEG).Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up a keratin material, preferably the skin, comprising the application, to the surface of said keratin material, of at least one cosmetic composition as defined in one of Claims 1 to 13.Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 13, for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, preferably bodily and / or facial skin.Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 13, for limiting darkening of the skin and / or improving the colour and / or homogeneity of the complexion.

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