Hair conditioning composition

Abstract

Clean look and excellent conditioning is provided by a hair conditioner composition comprising: A hair conditioner composition comprising: i) 0.1 to 1.5 wt %, by weight of the total composition, of particles of boiling resistant starch, having a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns; and ii) greater than 3 wt % of a non-silicone oil; wherein, the weight ratio of starch (i) to oil (ii) is from 1:6 to 1:2; wherein i) and ii) are dispersed within: iii) a conditioning gel phase comprising a cationic surfactant and a fatty material; wherein the composition is free from silicone.

Description

[0001] P0000988 CPL

[0002] 1

[0003] HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION

[0004] Field of the Invention

[0005] The invention lies in the field of hair conditioner compositions comprising oil that deliver conditioning benefits to hair, without the inclusion of silicone.

[0006] Background of the Invention

[0007] Consumers desire hair treatments, such as shampoos and conditioners, that provide conditioning benefits, for example smoothness, ease of comb and softness to their hair.

[0008] Conditioning benefits are desired and perceived by the consumer both during and after the wash process. Thus, conditioning is evaluated both when the hair is wet and when it is dry. As such, it is desirable that rinse-off haircare products such as conditioners provide multiple benefits at different stages of use. Wet conditioning and dry conditioning are different benefits and are typically delivered in different ways.

[0009] The impact of the gel phase component of a conditioning product is most apparent when wet or damp hair is evaluated, as well as during application and distribution through the hair.

[0010] Product rheology is a key attribute to consumers. Conditioners having superior rheology, such as thickness and yield stress can provide improved conditioning benefits and are preferred by consumers.

[0011] Silicones are primarily used to provide conditioning benefits at the post drying stages. However, there is a growing demand for non-silicone containing hair products. In silicone-free conditioner formulations alternative approaches are required to provide such benefits.

[0012] Non-silicone oils have been used in hair treatment compositions to condition hair but are significantly less effective than silicone at providing friction reduction. Higher levels of oil have been used in order to compensate for the conditioning loss. However, a further disadvantage is that non-silicone oils can make hair look dirty and greasy even when the inclusion levels in the composition is low. P0000988 CPL

[0013] 2

[0014] Starches and oils have been used in hair conditioning compositions:

[0015] FR2976488 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of pumice particles (i); one or more starches (ii); one or more solid fatty alcohols (iii); and one or more fatty esters (iv) to provide durable treatment of keratin fibers that are damaged on the surface. A use for smoothing hair is disclosed. Distarch phosphate of pregelatinized hydroxypropyl maize is exemplified.

[0016] US2005069511 discloses a cosmetic composition, comprising, at least one starch, at least one carboxylic ester, water and up to 20 wt % of fatty phase relative to the total weight of composition. The use of these compositions, based on a specific ester and a starch allegedly provides hair that is easy to disentangle and is smooth from root to tip, with an improvement in the hold of the style. A pregelatinized corn distarch phosphate or Potato fecula modified with 2- chloro-ethylamidodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide are utilised in the examples on wet hair to provide wet hair that is not heavy and hair shaping is easy.

[0017] EP1927346 discloses aqueous compositions for keratin fibres comprising an oil and / or wax, a natural starch, an emulsifier and a film forming polymer.

[0018] Despite the prior art, there remains a need to provide improved non-silicone conditioning whilst keeping the hair looking clean.

[0019] It is further known that the hair fibre is susceptible to damage from oxidative processes such as bleaching, and dyeing. It is known that deposition of conditioning agents is reduced on bleached hair. Bleached hair is known to be particularly poor at retaining conditioning agents such as oils and silicones during and after application, leading to low levels of deposition and inadequate benefit to the user. The user, therefore, has to apply more product and may never reach the level of conditioning that is desired. Indeed, we have found that measured deposition levels delivered to bleached hair can be less than 20 % than that achieved for the same product used on virgin hair. One characteristic of bleaching is that the oxidation removes 18-Methyl Eicosanoic Acid (18-MEA) from the hair surface, hence the hair surface becomes significantly hydrophilic. Accordingly, deposition of benefit agents onto the surface of bleached hair is different from deposition onto non-bleached hair, which is hydrophobic. Further, interaction of a treatment with bleached hair is different from interaction with hair damaged with non-bleach chemicals. P0000988 CPL

[0020] 3

[0021] We have now found that excellent conditioning can be achieved using a high level (for example 4 %, which would normally make hair look greasy / dirty) of non-silicone oil in a hair composition, without compromising clean look, by the inclusion of a defined particulate boiling resistant starch. This is particularly relevant for bleached hair, which requires a high level of oil to achieve acceptable conditioning.

[0022] Definition of the Invention

[0023] In a first aspect, the invention provides a hair conditioner composition comprising i) 0.1 to 1.5 wt %, by weight of the total composition, of particles of boiling resistant starch, having a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns; and ii) greater than 3 wt % of a non-silicone oil, preferably coconut oil; wherein, the weight ratio of starch (i) to oil (ii) is from 1:6 to 1:2, preferably from 1:6 to 1:3; wherein i) and ii) are dispersed within: iii) a conditioning gel phase comprising a cationic surfactant and a fatty material; wherein the composition is free from silicone.

[0024] In a second aspect, there is provided a method of treating hair, comprising the step of applying to hair a composition of the first aspect. Preferably the hair is virgin or bleached, most preferably bleached.

[0025] Use is also provided of a particulate starch and non-silicone oil in a silicone free composition of the first aspect to provide clean look and conditioning benefits to the hair. Preferably the hair is virgin or bleached, most preferably bleached.

[0026] Detailed Description of the Invention

[0027] The Starch

[0028] The compositions of the invention comprise a starch, which is a particulate boiling resistant starch. Such starches are also known as “cook stable” or “Amylum Non Mucinaginosum” (ANM) starches. The starch remains particulate in the composition. Preferably, the boiling resistant starch is selected from rice starch, quinoa starch, amaranth starch and mixtures thereof. Most preferably the boiling resistant starch is rice starch. P0000988 CPL

[0029] 4

[0030] The starch for use in the invention has a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns, preferably from 2 to 10 microns, most preferably from 3 to 9 microns.

[0031] Any suitable particle size analyser, such as a Malvern Mastersizer 3000 may be used to characterize starch particles. A suitable refractive index (Rl) of starch is 1.530 (as given in Holes in Starch Granules: Confocal, SEM and Light Microscopy Studies of Starch Granule Structure, Baldwin, P.M., Adler, J., Davies, M.C., Melia, C.D., Starch / Starke 46 (1994) Nr.9, S. 341-346).

[0032] A laser diffraction technique may be employed. The sample is dispersed in water (which has a Rl of 1.330) and passed into a sample window using a recirculating cell, where any particles present scatter the light. The refractive indices for both the particles and the suspending media are used for particle size determination. The following method may suitably be used:

[0033] Starch powder (0.1 g) is suspended in 10mL of deionised water and pipetted into a Mastersizer 3000 Hydro Medium Volume cell until a 5 % obscuration limit is reached. This process is preferably repeated three times for each starch sample at a stirrer speed of 2400 rpm.

[0034] Results are reported here as ‘particle size (pm) against volume (%)’ for Dv (10), Dv (50) and Dv (90) indicating that 10%, 50% and 90% respectively, of particles are smaller than the quoted size

[0035] The starches for use in the compositions of the invention are in the form of discrete particles. The starches for use in the present invention remain in particulate form in the compositions of the invention.

[0036] The starch is not a gelatinised or “swelling” starch. Gelatinised, or gelatinisable starches do not remain as particles when incorporated in a formulation such as a hair treatment composition. Gelatinisation depends on the hydrophilic nature of the starch. In one study, Senanayake et al (International Journal of Food Science; Volume 2014, Article ID 148982; Suraji Senanayake, Anil Gunaratne, K.K.D.S. Ranaweera and Arthur Bamunuarachchi), starches substituted with hydroxypropyl groups showed significantly higher levels of swelling power and water-soluble index compared to the unmodified native starch. According to the authors, the presence of hydroxypropyl groups, which are hydrophilic, enhances the attraction of water molecules into the granular structure that causes early swelling in the granule.

[0037] A suitable type of boiling resistant starch is crosslinked. A preferred crosslinked boiling resistant starch is a di-starch phosphate. Most preferably, the boiling resistant starch is a crosslinked rice P0000988 CPL

[0038] 5 starch. Highly preferred boiling resistant rice starches may be selected from crosslinked diphosphate starches (for example Rice PO4 Natural from Agrana Starch).

[0039] Preferably, the crosslinked boiling resistant starch is selected from crosslinked rice starch, crosslinked quinoa starch, crosslinked amaranth starch and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the starch is selected from crosslinked rice starch, crosslinked quinoa starch and mixtures thereof, most preferably the boiling resistant starch is crosslinked rice starch.

[0040] The starch is present in an amount of 0.1 to 1.5 wt %, preferably 0.2 to 1.25 wt %, most preferably 0.25 to 1 wt % by weight of the total composition.

[0041] The non-silicone oil

[0042] The oils for use in the compositions of the invention are non-silicone oils.

[0043] Suitable non-silicone oils are selected from hydrocarbon oils, fatty ester oils and mixtures thereof. The non-silicone oil is preferably selected from hydrocarbon oils selected from paraffin oil, mineral oil, polyalphaolefin oil; esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols; and mixtures thereof.

[0044] The hydrocarbon oils can be natural or synthetic.

[0045] Straight chain hydrocarbon oils will preferably contain from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms. Also suitable are branched chain hydrocarbon oils, which preferably contain from about 12 to about 42 carbon atoms. Also suitable are polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as C2 to C6 alkenyl monomers.

[0046] Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon oils include paraffin oil, mineral oil, polyalphaolefin, squalane, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturated and unsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane, saturated and unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and unsaturated hexadecane, and mixtures thereof. Branched-chain isomers of these compounds, as well as of higher chain length hydrocarbons, can also be used. Another suitable material is polyisobutylene.

[0047] A preferred polyalphaolefin is commercially available as Silkflo 366 ™ (dec-1-ene) ex Ineos. Suitable fatty esters are characterised by having at least 6 carbon atoms and include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols. Monocarboxylic acid esters include P0000988 CPL

[0048] 6 esters of alcohols and / or acids of the formula R'COOR in which R' and R independently denote alkyl or alkenyl radicals and the sum of carbon atoms in R' and R is at least 10, preferably at least 20. Di- and trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids can also be used.

[0049] Natural fatty ester oils comprise fatty acid residues of a distribution of chain lengths, with at least one predominant chain length constituent. For example, coconut oil comprises predominant fatty constituents of lauric acid at about 41 %, miristic acid at about 24 % and palmitic acid at about 16.5 %. That is to say, a mixture of ester linked fatty chains is found. These constituent fatty esters are also suitable for use in the invention individually.

[0050] Particularly preferred fatty ester oils are mono-, di- and triglycerides, more specifically the mono-, di-, and tri-esters of glycerol and long chain carboxylic acids such as C1-C22 carboxylic acids and mixtures thereof. Preferred materials include cocoa butter, palm stearin, sunflower oil, soyabean oil and coconut oil, most preferably coconut oil.

[0051] The non-silicone oil is present in an amount of greater than 3 wt %, preferably greater than 3 wt % to 10 wt %, more preferably from 3.5 to 10 wt %, more preferably from 3.5 to 7 wt %, by weight of the total composition.

[0052] The weight ratio of starch (i) to oil (ii) is from 1 :6 to 1 :2, preferably from 1 :5 to 1 :3.

[0053] Silicone free

[0054] The compositions of the invention are free from silicone. In the context of the invention, by free from is meant having less than 0.4 weight %, more preferably less than 0.1 weight %, even more preferably less than 0.05 weight %, still more preferably less than 0.001 weight %, yet preferably less than 0.0001 weight %, and most preferably 0 weight % of silicone by weight of the total composition.

[0055] Preferably, the compositions of the invention are also free from silanes, whereby free from is defined as above.

[0056] The conditioning gel base

[0057] The conditioning base comprises a cationic conditioning surfactant and a fatty alcohol. P0000988 CPL

[0058] 7

[0059] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

[0060] Suitable conditioning surfactants are selected from cationic surfactants, used singly or in admixture. Examples include quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants corresponding to the following general formula:

[0061] [N(R1)(R2)(R3)(R4)]+ (X)- in which R1, R2, R3, and R^ are each independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group of from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halide, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, and alkylsulphate, for example methosulphate, radicals.

[0062] The aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The aliphatic groups, e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.

[0063] Specific examples of such quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants of the above general formula are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2 oleylammonium chloride and salts of these, where the chloride is replaced by other halide (e.g., bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, or alkylsulphate.

[0064] In a preferred class of cationic surfactant of the above general formula, R-' is a C16 to C22 saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, alkyl chain and R2, R3 and R^ are each independently selected from CH3 and CH2CH2OH, preferably CH3. P0000988 CPL

[0065] 8

[0066] Specific examples of such preferred quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC), behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC) and mixtures thereof.

[0067] Preferably, the quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant has a cation selected from cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium.

[0068] Alternatively, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines may be used in combination with an acid to provide a cationic surfactant suitable for use in the invention. The acid protonates the amine and forms an amine salt in situ in the hair care composition. The amine is therefore effectively a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudo-quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.

[0069] Suitable fatty amines of this type include amidoamines of the following general formula:

[0070] R1-C(O)-N(H)-R2-N(R3)(R4) in which R-' is a fatty acid chain containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, R2is an alkylene group containing from one to four carbon atoms, and R3and R4are each independently, an alkyl group having from one to four carbon atoms.

[0071] Specific examples of suitable materials of the above general formula are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine.stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and diethylaminoethylstearamide.

[0072] Also useful are dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, oyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-tallowpropane diamine, ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidyl behenylamine.

[0073] Particularly preferred is stearamidopropyldimethylamine. P0000988 CPL

[0074] The conditioning surfactant is present in the composition in a concentration of 0.1 to 10%, preferably at least 0.5%, more preferably at least 1 %, still more preferably at least 2%, even more preferably at least 3% or even at least 4% but typically not more than 9%, preferably not more than 8%, more preferably not more than 7%, still more preferably not more than 6%, even more preferably not more than 5% by weight of the composition.

[0075] Also preferred are branched cationic co- surfactants, selected from structure 1 , structure 2, structure 3 below and mixtures thereof:

[0076] Structure 1 Structure 2 Structure 3 wherein:

[0077] • Ri, R2, Rs and Re comprise linear alkyl chains, saturated or unsaturated, with carbon-carbon chain lengths of from C4 to C20, preferably from Ce to Cis;

[0078] • R3 and R4 comprise linear or branched alkyl chains, saturated or unsaturated, with carboncarbon chain lengths of from C6to C22; preferably from Ce to C12;

[0079] • n and m have a range of from 0 to 10, preferably selected from 0 and 1 ;

[0080] • p has a range of from 1 to 6, preferably selected from 1 and 2;

[0081] • R? comprises an alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from Ci to Cis, preferably Ci to C4; most preferably from Ci to C2

[0082] • Rs comprises a proton or an alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from Ci to Cie, preferably from Ci to C4, most preferably Ci to C2; and

[0083] • X is an organic or inorganic anion.

[0084] Also preferred are_branched cationic co- surfactants, as defined by structure 4

[0085] Structure 4 wherein: P0000988 CPL

[0086] 10

[0087] • Ri and R2 comprise linear or branched alkyl chains, that are saturated or non-saturated, with carbon-carbon chain lengths of from C2 to C32, preferably C8-C20 and that optionally comprise at least one group selected from an ester group, an amide group and an ether group;

[0088] • R3 comprises an alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from Ci to C4, preferably Ci to C2;

[0089] • R4 comprises a proton or an alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from Ci to C4, preferably Ci to C2; and

[0090] • X is an organic or inorganic anion.

[0091] Preferred examples are EQ100, EQ90, EQ75 available from Evonik, and Stepan Quat Soleil available from Stepan.

[0092] The fatty alcohol

[0093] The compositions of the invention comprise a fatty alcohol having a carbon-carbon chain length of from C8to C22.

[0094] The combined use of fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is preferred because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.

[0095] The fatty alcohol comprises from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22, most preferably C16 to C18. Fatty alcohols are typically compounds containing straight chain alkyl groups. Preferably, the alkyl groups are saturated. Examples of preferred fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions for use in the invention.

[0096] The level of fatty alcohol in conditioners for use in the invention will generally range from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 8%, more preferably from 0.2 to 7%, most preferably from 0.3 to 6% by weight of the composition.

[0097] The weight ratio of cationic-surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitably from 1 :1 to 1 :10, preferably from 1 :1.5 to 1 :8, optimally from 1:2 to 1:5. If the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is too high, this can lead to eye irritancy from the composition. If it is too low, it can make the hair feel squeaky for some consumers. P0000988 CPL

[0098] 11

[0099] A preferred conditioner comprises a conditioning gel phase having little or no vesicle content. Such conditioners and methods for making them are described in WO2014 / 016354, WO20 14 / 016353, WO2012 / 016352 and WO2014 / 016351.

[0100] Such a conditioning gel phase comprises, by total weight of the composition, i) from 0.4 to 8 wt % of fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbons, ii) from 0.1 to 2 wt % of cationic surfactant, and the composition confers a Draw Mass of from 1 to 250 g, preferably 2 to 100 g, more preferably 2 to 50 g, even more preferably 5 to 40 g and most preferably 5 to 25 g to hair treated with the composition.

[0101] Draw Mass is the mass required to draw a hair switch through a comb or brush. Thus the more tangled the hair the greater the mass required to pull the switch through the comb or brush, and the greater the level of condition of the hair, the lower the Draw Mass. The Draw Mass is the mass required to draw a hair switch, for example of weight 1 to 20 g, length 10 to 30 cm, and width 0.5 to 5 cm through a comb or brush, as measured by first placing the hair switch onto the comb or brush, such that from 5 to 20 cm of hair is left hanging at the glued end of the switch, and then adding weights to the hanging end until the switch falls through the comb or brush.

[0102] Preferably, the hair switch is of weight 1 to 20 g, more preferably 2 to 15 g, most preferably from 5 to10 g. Preferably, the hair switch has a length of from 10 to 40 cm, more preferably from 10 to 30 cm, and a width of from 0.5 to 5 cm, more preferably from 1.5 to 4 cm.

[0103] Most preferably, the Draw Mass is the mass required to draw a hair switch, for example of weight 10 g, length 20 cm, and width 3 cm through a comb or brush, as measured by first placing the hair switch onto the comb or brush, such that from 20 cm of hair is left hanging at the glued end of the switch, and then adding weights to the hanging end until the switch falls through the comb or brush.

[0104] Unless otherwise indicated, ratios, percentages, parts, and the like, referred to herein, are by weight.

[0105] Aspects of the invention will now be illustrated by the following examples. P0000988 CPL

[0106] 12

[0107] Examples

[0108] Example 1 : Preparation of Composition 1 in accordance with the invention and Comparative Compositions A- HL

[0109] Hair conditioning compositions were prepared, having ingredients as shown in table below. Examples 1 and 2 represent compositions according to the invention and Compositions A- G are comparative examples outside the scope of the claim. Table 1 : Compositions of Compositions 1 and 2 in accordance with the invention and Comparative Compositions A- H

[0110] The compositions in Table 1 were prepared as follows:

[0111] 1. Approximately half of total water was added to a suitable vessel and heated to 60 - 70 °C.

[0112] 2. Where present, the starch was added to this initial water.

[0113] 3. Surfactant and fatty materials were added to a suitable vessel and heated to above the melting point of the fatty materials to form a melt. P0000988 CPL

[0114] 13

[0115] 4. The melt was combined with the heated water phase and the resultant mixture mixed until opaque and thick.

[0116] 5. The heat was then turned off and quench / rest of the water was added.

[0117] 6. The mixture was then cooled to below 40 °C, then the oil and any other materials (for example fragrance, preservatives) were added.

[0118] 7. Finally, the formulation was mixed at high shear on a Silverson mixer.

[0119] Method of treating hair

[0120] The hair was treated using the following method:

[0121] 7 g 25 cm Dark Brown European switches were wetted under a tap. A solution of 14 wt % sodium laureth sulfate with one unit of ethoxylation was applied to the switch (at 0.1 g per gram of hair). The switch was massaged for 30 seconds and then rinsed under the tap for 30 seconds. This was repeated. The wet switches were then detangled using a comb. The conditioner composition (0.2 g per gram hair) was then applied to the hair and massaged for 1 min, before being rinsed for 1 min under a controlled flow of water. The switches were left to dry at room temperature.

[0122] Method of measuring clean look using the Movement Rig

[0123] Clean look can be measured using a suitable apparatus for measuring movement characteristics of hair, for example as described in WO 2018 / 234410. A hair switch is hung and oscillated in a pendulum movement. A camera captures frames during the switch movement and its displacement in the horizontal axis (x-amplitude) and vertical axis (y-amplitude). Image analysis is carried out by an algorithm to calculate said displacement of the switch as it is travelling in its movement. The displacement for a switch that looks clean or dirty / greasy is thus determined.

[0124] The hair movement rig included a lightbox, movement rig, still digital camera, and switch motion software.

[0125] 1. The method used was as follows; Oscillation: 1 Hz, Delay: 1 second, Motion: 7 seconds, Decay: 6 seconds.

[0126] 2. The camera was used to record a 14-second video of three hair switches under forced oscillation

[0127] 3. IDL software was then used to translate the video into various dynamic properties, and dynamic switch dimensions. The key dynamic properties obtained included the: X-amplitude, Y-amplitude, Relative Phase, and Decay Time. The X-amplitude (steady state) is an average measurement of P0000988 CPL

[0128] 14 the maximum that the switch moves in the X-axis. The Y-amplitude (steady state) is an average measurement of the maximum that the switch moves in the Y-axis.

[0129] 4. The average Y-amplitude of three switches was taken. The results are given in Table 2 below:

[0130] Table 2: Clean look and friction properties of hair treated with compositions 1 and A-H

[0131] *95 % confidence interval At 4 % oil inclusion starch is required to obtain clean look. The results show that with the composition according to the invention (Example 1) a significantly higher Y Amplitude is obtained, compared to Comp G, which also has 4 % oil. 2 and 3 % oil gives clean look but poor conditioning benefit. The invention provides a way of incorporating a high level of oil to achieve excellent conditioning whilst achieving clean looking hair.

Claims

1. P0000988 CPL15CLAIMS1. A hair conditioner composition comprising: i) 0.1 to 1 .5 wt %, by weight of the total composition, of particles of boiling resistant starch, having a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns; and ii) greater than 3 wt % of a non-silicone oil; wherein, the weight ratio of starch (i) to oil (ii) is from 1 :6 to 1 :2; wherein i) and ii) are dispersed within: iii) a conditioning gel phase comprising a cationic surfactant and a fatty material; wherein the composition is free from silicone.

2. A composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the boiling resistant starch is selected from a rice starch, a quinoa starch, a amaranth starch and mixtures thereof, preferably rice starch.

3. A composition as claimed in claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the boiling resistant starch is crosslinked.

4. A composition as claimed in claim 3, wherein the boiling resistant starch is a crosslinked di-phosphate rice starch.

5. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the starch has a Dv(50) particle size of from 3 to 9 microns.

6. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the non-silicone oil is selected from hydrocarbon oils, fatty ester oil and mixtures thereof.

7. A composition as claimed in claim 6, wherein the non-silicone oil is selected from paraffin oil, mineral oil, polyalphaolefin, esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols and mixtures thereof.

8. A composition as claimed in claim 6 or claim 7, wherein the fatty ester oils is selected from mono-, di- and triglycerides, prefreably the mono-, di-, and tri-esters of glycerol and long chain carboxylic acids such as C1-C22 carboxylic acids and mixtures thereof.P0000988 CPL169. A composition as claimed in claim 8, wherein the fatty ester oil is selected from cocoa butter, palm stearin, sunflower oil, soyabean oil and coconut oil, preferably coconut oil.

10. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim wherein the non-silicone oil is present in an amount of from 3.5 to 7 wt %, by weight of the total composition11. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the cationic conditioning surfactant is a quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.

12. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the fatty alcohol has a carboncarbon chain length of C8 to C22.

13. A method of treating hair, comprising the step of applying a composition as claimed in any preceding claim, to hair, preferably bleached hair.

14. Use of a particulate starch and non-silicone oil in a silicone free composition as defined in claims 1 to 12 to provide clean look as well as conditioning benefits to hair, preferably bleached hair.

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