Process for keratin fibers

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for treating, preferably cosmetically treating, and more preferably conditioning keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the step of: applying onto the keratin fibers at least one composition comprising (a) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof; (b) at least one fatty amine; and (c) propandiol, wherein the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (d) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. The process according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with good conditioning effects such as good suppleness and good coated feeling, although the composition does not comprise a substantial amount of silicone.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION

[0003] PROCESS FOR KERATIN FIBERS

[0004] TECHNICAL FIELD

[0005] The present invention relates to a process for treating, preferably cosmetically treating, and more preferably conditioning keratin fibers such as hair.

[0006] BACKGROUND ART

[0007] In the field of hair cosmetics, hair conditioning effects are very important properties. A variety of leave-on type and rinse-off type hair care cosmetic products has been used for conditioning hair.

[0008] In order to enhance the above conditioning effects, it is known to add silicones. Silicones, in particular aminosilicones, can repair hair damage effectively, and therefore, they can provide hair conditioning effects.

[0009] On the other hand, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is becoming a major goal in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0010] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0011] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable or sustainable raw materials and / or materials with a good index of naturalness and / or materials of natural origin.

[0012] Thus, in order to develop more sustainable conditioners, it is preferable to limit the use of silicones.

[0013] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

[0014] There is a need for cosmetic processes for keratin fibers such as hair without the aid of silicones which may be difficult to be decomposed in environments.

[0015] An objective of the present invention is to provide a process for treating keratin fibers such as hair which can provide the keratin fibers with good cosmetic effects, preferably conditioning effects such as good suppleness and good coated feeling, wherein the process is substantially free from using silicones.

[0016] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a process for treating, preferably cosmetically treating, and more preferably conditioning keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the step of: applying onto the keratin fibers at least one composition comprising

[0017] (a) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof; (b) at least one fatty amine; and

[0018] (c) propanediol, wherein the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (d) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The (a) ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, may be selected from the esters of the following general formula (I):

[0020] R3-OCO-Ri(-COO-R2-OCO-Ri)n-COO-R3 (I) in which:

[0021] CORi CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

[0022] OR2O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue,

[0023] OR3 represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, or the following general formula (II): in which: n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15,

[0024] COR'iCO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

[0025] ORhO represents a diglyceryl residue of the following general formula (III): in which: 3 represents H or OR'3 represents a fatty acid residue, or the following general formula (IV):

[0026] HO-Ri'-(-OCO-R2"-COO-Ri"-)h-OH (IV) in which:

[0027] ORi 'O represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of a dimerdilinoleic acid, COR2"CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue, and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9. The (a) ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, may be selected from the group consisting of the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, and a mixture thereof.

[0028] The amount of the (a) ester(s) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof, in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] The (b) fatty amine may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, and preferably from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and a mixture thereof.

[0030] The amount of the (b) fatty amine(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] It is preferable that the (c) propanediol be 1,3 -propanediol.

[0032] The amount of the (c) propanediol in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] The composition used for the process according to the present invention may further comprise

[0034] (e) at least one fatty alcohol.

[0035] The (e) fatty alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

[0036] The amount of the (e) fatty alcohol(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] The composition used for the process according to the present invention may further comprise

[0038] (f) at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or a salt thereof.

[0039] The (f) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups may be selected from aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups, preferably from saturated aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups, more preferably from saturated aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups and two carboxyl groups, and even more preferably the (f) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups is tartaric acid.

[0040] The amount of the (f) hydroxycarboxylic acid(s) having two or more hydroxyl groups or salt(s) thereof in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] The process according to the present invention may further comprise the step of rinsing off the composition from the keratin fibers.

[0042] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

[0043] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a process for treating keratin fibers such as hair which can provide the keratin fibers with good cosmetic effects, preferably conditioning effects such as good suppleness and good coated feeling, wherein the process is substantially free from using silicones.

[0044] Thus, the process according to the present invention comprises the step of: applying onto the keratin fibers at least one composition comprising

[0045] (a) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof;

[0046] (b) at least one fatty amine; and

[0047] (c) propanediol, wherein the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (d) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] The (d) silicone(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention is optional. Thus, the composition used for the process according to the present invention may or may not comprise the (d) silicone(s).

[0049] If the composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises the (d) silicone(s), the amount of the (d) silicone(s) is limited such that the amount of the (d) silicone(s) in the composition is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] It is preferable that the composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises no (d) silicone.

[0051] The process according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with good cosmetic effects, preferably conditioning effects such as good suppleness and good coated feeling, although the composition used for the process does not comprise a substantial amount of silicone.

[0052] For example, the process according to the present invention can provide dry keratin fibers such as hair with good suppleness. Also, the process according to the present invention can provide wet keratin fibers such as hair with sufficiently coated feeling.

[0053] The process according to the present invention is environmentally friendly, because the composition used for the process does not comprise a substantial amount of silicone.

[0054] Hereafter, the present invention will be described in a detailed manner.

[0055] [Process] The process according to the present invention comprises the step of: applying onto the keratin fibers at least one composition comprising

[0056] (a) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof; (b) at least one fatty amine; and

[0057] (c) propanediol, wherein the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (d) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] {Composition}

[0059] The composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises: (a) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof;

[0060] (b) at least one fatty amine; and

[0061] (c) propanediol, wherein the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (d) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] (Ester of Polyol(s) and of Fatty Diacid Dimer or Ester Thereof) The composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof. If two or more esters of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof are used, they may be the same or different. In the expression "ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof', the term "or an ester thereof means one of the derivatives of these esters and of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer obtained either by reaction of alcohol function(s) of the polyol, not engaged in bonds of ester type with acid functions of the diacid dimer, with one or more carboxylic functions of acid molecules other than the diacid dimer, or alternatively by reaction of acid function(s) of the diacid dimer, not engaged in bonds of ester type with alcohol functions of the polyol, with alcohol functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol.

[0063] Advantageously, the esters of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, which are suitable for use in the present invention may have a viscosity, measured at about 25°C of greater than or equal to about 1,500 mPa.s.

[0064] The viscosity of an ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, according to the present invention may be measured according to any process known to those skilled in the art, and for example according to the conventional process described hereinbelow.

[0065] The viscosity may be measured using a cone / plate or parallel plate viscometer of Ares type (TA-Instrument) operating in kinetic sweep mode over a shear range of about 1-1,000 s'1to induce a flow tension of about 1 ,000 Pa. The cone / plate or parallel plates may consist of a material selected from the group consisting of stainless steel, acrylic resins or polyphenylene sulfide (PPS resin).

[0066] The cone / plate diameter may be 25 mm (cone angle 0.10 radians).

[0067] The measurement is performed at about 25°C.

[0068] Before any measurement, the stability of the sample is checked by means of the dynamic sweep period test, which makes it possible to determine if the sample is stable per se.

[0069] The shear viscosity is determined using the ETA value in the plateau region according to the flow.

[0070] The dynamic sweep period is determined at a frequency of 1.0 Hz over a period of 600 seconds.

[0071] The measurements at constant sweep rate are performed with a rate ranging from 1.0 to 1,000 s"1and for example from 1.0 to 100 s’1.

[0072] The viscosity of an ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, suitable for use in the present invention may range from about 1,500 mPa.s to about 150,000 mPa.s, or for example from about 2,000 mPa.s to about 150,000 mPa.s, or for example from about 15,000 mPa.s to about 100,000 mPa.s or for example from about 30,000 mPa.s to about 80,000 mPa.s.

[0073] According to one embodiment, a polyol that is suitable for use in the present invention may be a diol dimer.

[0074] The esters of diol dimer and of fatty diacid dimer that may be used in the context of the present invention are commercially available or may be prepared in a conventional manner. They may be of plant origin and may be obtained by esterification of diacid dimers with diol dimers.

[0075] In an esterification reaction with a diacid dimer, a polyol dicarboxylate is obtained, which may have a weight-average molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), ranging from 2,000 to 25,000 g / mol or for example between 2,000 and 4,000 g / mol.

[0076] Diacid Dimer:

[0077] The fatty diacid dimers, or diacid dimers, may be conventionally obtained by polymerization reaction, for example by intermolecular dimerization, of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.

[0078] They may contain at least two carboxylic acid groups.

[0079] As indicated previously, the carboxylic functions of the fatty diacid dimer not engaged in the ester bond with the polyol residue(s) may be engaged in other ester bonds with other alcohol functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol(s).

[0080] These alcohol molecules or residues may be monoalcohols or polyols.

[0081] As examples of alcohol residues that are suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of hydrocarbon-based compounds comprising a hydroxyl function and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, or for example from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, or for example from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, or for example from 16 to 28 carbon atoms, or for example from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0082] As examples of monoalcohols that are suitable for the present invention, mention may be made, in a non- limiting manner, of butanol, pentanol, propanol, hexanol, heptanol, octanol, decanol, dodecanol, hexadecanol, octadecanol, eicosadecanol, phytosterol, isostearol, stearol, cetol, behenol, etc.

[0083] The fatty diacid dimers may be derived for example from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, for example of Cs to C34, or for example of C12 to C22, in particular of Ci6 to C20 and for example of Cis.

[0084] As examples of these unsaturated fatty acids, mention may be made for example of undecenoic acid, linderic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidinic acid, gadolenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid and arachidonic acid, and a mixture thereof.

[0085] According to one embodiment variant, it may be the diacid dimer from which the diol dimer to be esterified may also be derived. It may be its hydrogenated form.

[0086] The hydrogenated form of the diacid dimer may be partial or total, and may correspond, for example, to the saturated form, which is more stable towards oxidation.

[0087] According to another embodiment variant, it may be the diacid dimer derived from the dimerization of linoleic acid.

[0088] According to one embodiment, the diacid dimer may be a commercial product consisting of a dicarboxylic acid containing about 36 carbon atoms. This product may also contain a trimeric acid and a monomeric acid, in proportions that depend on the degree of purity of the product.

[0089] Products whose diacid dimer content may be greater than 70% and others whose diacid dimer content has been adjusted to 90% or more are conventionally found commercially.

[0090] Diacid dimers, and for example dilinoleic diacids whose stability towards oxidation has been improved by hydrogenation of the double bonds remaining after the dimerization reaction, may also be found commercially.

[0091] In the present invention, any diacid dimer that is currently commercially available may be used.

[0092] In an esterification reaction with a diacid dimer, the average degree of esterification and the average molecular weight of the ester obtained may be adjusted by varying the ratio of the diol dimer to the diacid dimer.

[0093] Polyols:

[0094] The term "polyol" is intended to denote any hydrocarbon-based compound comprising at least two hydroxyl functions and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, or for example from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, or for example from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, or for example from 16 to 28 carbon atoms and for example from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0095] The hydrocarbon-based chains may be interrupted, where appropriate, by the presence of at least one heteroatom, and for example an oxygen atom.

[0096] A polyol or a polyol ester that is suitable for use in the present invention may comprise, for example, from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, or for example from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, or for example from 4 to 6 hydroxyl functions.

[0097] Where appropriate, the hydroxyl functions, other than those already employed in an ester bond with the diacid dimer, may also be employed, wholly or partly in other ester bonds via reaction with acid molecules other than the diacid dimer.

[0098] The polyol or an ester thereof that is suitable for use in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of linear, branched, cyclic or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated alcohols.

[0099] Thus, the polyol may be selected, for example, from the group consisting of a diol, a triol, a tetraol, or a pentaol, or an ester thereof.

[0100] The polyol may be a diol, or an ester thereof, selected for example from the group consisting of a fatty alcohol dimer, a monoglycerol or polyglycerol, a C2-C4 monoalkylene or polyalkylene glycol, 1 ,4-butanediol and pentaerythritol.

[0101] As examples of diols that are also suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made, in a non-exhaustive manner, of butanediol, pentanediol, propanediol, hexanediol, hexylene glycol, heptanediol, octanediol, nonanediol, decanediol, 1 -decanediol, dodecanediol, tridecanediol, tetradecanediol, pentadecanediol, hexadecanediol, nonadecanediol, octadecanediol, cyclohexanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, ethylene glycol and xylene glycol, and isomers thereof.

[0102] According to one variant, as an example of diols that are suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of diol dimers.

[0103] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "diol dimer" is intended to mean saturated diols derived from the hydrogenation of the corresponding diacid dimers, a diacid dimer being as defined above, and for example a diacid dimer of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.

[0104] In regard to the industrially manufactured diol dimer, it also generally contains other components, for example a triol trimer, a monoalcohol and compounds of ether type, according to the degree of purification of the acid dimer and / or of the lower alcohol ester thereof, used as starting material.

[0105] Generally, products whose diol dimer content is greater than 70% may be used in the present invention. However, one may use a diol dimer of high purity, such as a compound whose diol dimer content is greater than 90%.

[0106] Thus, a diol dimer may be produced by hydrogenation, for example catalytic hydrogenation, of a diacid dimer, which is itself obtained by dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.

[0107] A suitable fatty acid may be such as those mentioned previously, and for example of Cg to C34, or for example of C 12 to C22, or for example of Ci6 to C20 and more particularly of Cig.

[0108] According to one embodiment, the diol dimer may be derived from the hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid.

[0109] A diol dimer may be, for example, dilinoleol.

[0110] The diol dimer may generally be in a saturated form.

[0111] As another example of a diol dimer that is suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made for example of diglycerol.

[0112] This compound is a glycerol dimer resulting from the condensation of two molecules of glycerol, with the loss of a water molecule.

[0113] The term "diglycerol" denotes any isomer combination that can result from such a condensation, for instance linear isomers, branched isomers and, where appropriate, cyclic isomers resulting from an intramolecular dehydration of a diglycerol molecule.

[0114] The diglycerol may be obtained via any process known to those skilled in the art and especially those described in patent EP 0 750 848.

[0115] As examples of acid molecules that can interact with one or more hydroxyl functions of the polyol, not engaged in the ester bond with the diacid dimer, mention may be made, in a nonlimiting manner, of molecules derived from isostearic acid, behenic acid, phytostearic acid, stearic acid or cetylic acid.

[0116] An ester that is suitable for use in the present invention may be obtained by reacting a polyol or an ester thereof with a diacid dimer, and for example a dimerdilinoleic acid, in a molar ratio of about 1.0:0.2-1.

[0117] An ester that may be suitable for use in the present invention may be obtained by reacting a dimerdilinoleic acid with a dilinoleol and, where appropriate, at least one additional monoalcohol selected for example from the group consisting of behenol, isostearol, phytosterol, stearol and cetol, and a mixture thereof.

[0118] Thus, an ester used in the context of the present invention may be used in the form of a mixture of various esters, for example.

[0119] An ester that is suitable for use in the present invention may be obtained, for example, by reacting a glycerol, an isostearic acid and a dimerdilinoleic acid, for example in a molar ratio of 1.0:0.2-1.0:0.5-0.9.

[0120] As examples of esters of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s), or an ester thereof, suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of the esters described in patent applications JP- A-2003-226609, JP-A-2004-256515 and JP-A-2005-179377. An ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, suitable for use in the present invention may have a molecular weight ranging from about 2,000 to about 25,000 g / mol, for example from about 4,000 to about 20,000 g / mol, for example from about 5,000 to about 20,000 g / mol, for example from about 7,000 to about 15,000 g / mol and for example from about 8,000 to about 10,000 g / mol.

[0121] According to one embodiment, an ester in accordance with the present invention may comprise an alternating sequence of diacid dimer residue(s) and of residue(s) related to the said polyol(s), and for example to the said diol(s), the said polyols or diols being, for example, as defined above.

[0122] Thus, in such a configuration, each of the two ends of the said sequence may bear, respectively, a unit OR' and OR" with R' and R" representing, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or' and OR" representing, independently of each other, a C2 to C36, for example Cg to C24, for example C12 to C20 and for example C16 to Cis hydrocarbon based monoalcohol residue.

[0123] According to one embodiment, R' and R" may both represent a hydrogen atom.

[0124] According to one embodiment, OR' and OR" may both represent an identical or different hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue.

[0125] As examples of hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residues OR' and OR" that may be suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of fatty alcohol residues.

[0126] An ester that is suitable for use in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of esters of general formula (I), (II) or (IV) described below, or a mixture thereof.

[0127] According to one embodiment, an ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, that may be suitable for use in the present invention may have the general formula (I) below:

[0128] R3-OCO-R1 (-COO-R2-OCO-Ri)n-COO-R3(I) in which:

[0129] CORiCO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

[0130] OR2O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue,

[0131] OR3represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, for example from 2 to 10 or for example from 5 to 7.

[0132] According to one embodiment variant, CORiCO may represent a dimerdilinoleate residue.

[0133] According to one embodiment variant, OR2O may represent a dimerdilinoleyl residue.

[0134] Moreover, OR3may represent a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue selected, for example, from the group consisting of behenyl, isostearyl and phytosteryl residues, and a mixture thereof.

[0135] According to another embodiment, the ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, that may be suitable for use in the present invention may for example have the general formula (II) below: in which: n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, for example from 2 to 10 and in particular from 5 to 7, COR' i CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

[0136] ORbO represents a diglyceryl residue of general formula (III) below: in which:

[0137] R'3 represents H or OR'3 represents a fatty acid residue.

[0138] According to one embodiment variant, COR' 1 CO may represent a dimerdilinoleate residue.

[0139] According to one embodiment variant, the fatty acid residue featured by OR'3 may be an isostearyl residue.

[0140] According to one embodiment, an ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, which may be suitable for use in the present invention, may be of formula (IV) below:

[0141] HO-Ri'-(-OCO-R2"-COO-Ri"-)h-OH (IV) in which: a) ORr 0 represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of a dimerdilinoleic acid, b) COR2"CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue, and c) h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, for example from 2 to 8 and for example from 4 to 6.

[0142] According to one embodiment, CCW'CO may represent a dimerdilinoleate residue.

[0143] An ester that is suitable for the present invention may be selected for example from the group consisting of the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate and a mixture thereof.

[0144] Such compounds may be obtained, for example, under the reference Hailucent ISDA (sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd.) and Plandool-G, Plandool-G7, Lusplan DD-DA5, Lusplan DD-DA7, PHY / IS-DA and Lusplan DD-DAS (sold by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.). For example, Lusplan DD-DA5 and Lusplan DD-DA7 are described in patent application FR 03 / 02809.

[0145] The amount of the (a) ester(s) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof, in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0146] The amount of the (a) ester(s) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof, in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] The amount of the (a) ester(s) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof, in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0148] (Fatty Amine)

[0149] The composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one fatty amine. Two or more fatty amines may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty amine or a combination of different types of fatty amines may be used.

[0150] The term “fatty amines” is understood to mean primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or salts thereof. The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not quaternized. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0151] Preferably, the composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one fatty amine comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0152] Preferably, the composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one fatty amine chosen from tertiary fatty amines.

[0153] More preferentially, the composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises one or more tertiary fatty amines chosen from fatty amidoamines.

[0154] The (b) fatty amine that may be used in the context of the present invention may be chosen from fatty amines having the formula (IV) below:

[0155] RN(R’)2(IV) wherein:

[0156] R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, alkyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C6-C30, better still C8-C24, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, alkenyl radical; and R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0157] The (b) fatty amine corresponding to the above formula (IV) may be chosen, for example, from dimethyllauramine, dimethylbehenamine, dimethylcocamine, dimethylmyristamine, dimethylpalmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyltallowamine, dimethylsoyamine, and a mixture thereof.

[0158] The (b) fatty amine that may be used in the context of the present invention may also be chosen from fatty amidoamines, preferably fatty amidoamines having the formula (V) below:

[0159] R-C0-N(H)-R”-N(R’)2 (V) wherein:

[0160] R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C5-C29, better still C5-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;

[0161] R”, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms; and

[0162] R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0163] The (b) fatty amine corresponding to the above formula (V) may be chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine sold by the company Inolex under the name Lexamine SI 3, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and a mixture thereof.

[0164] Preferably, the (b) fatty amine may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, preferentially from fatty amidoamines of the above formula (V).

[0165] It is preferable that the (b) fatty amine be selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and a mixture thereof.

[0166] The chemical structure of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine can be represented by the formula (VI) below: wherein

[0167] R denotes a C17 alkyl group for stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0168] Thus, it is preferable that the composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one fatty amine selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and a mixture thereof.

[0169] The amount of the (b) fatty amine(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] The amount of the (b) fatty amine(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] Thus, the amount of the (b) fatty amine(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] (Propanediol)

[0173] The composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises (c) propanediol.

[0174] The (c) propanediol may be 1,2 -propanediol (propyleneglycol) or 1,3 -propanediol, and is preferably 1,3 -propanediol.

[0175] The (c) propanediol may function as a humectant.

[0176] It is preferable that the (c) propanediol be prepared from materials derived from plants. For example, it is preferable that the (c) propanediol be prepared by fermentation of glycerin or glucose derived from plants.

[0177] As the (c) propanediol, mention may be made of, for example, Zemea® Propanediol sold by Covation.

[0178] The amount of the (c) propanediol in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0179] The amount of the (c) propanediol in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thus, the amount of the (c) propanediol in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0180] (Silicone)

[0181] When the composition contains (d) silicone(s), one, two or more silicones may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of silicone or a combination of different types of silicones may be used.

[0182] In the context of the present invention, the term "silicone" used herein is understood to mean, in conformity with the generally accepted definition, all organosilicon polymers or oligomers having a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of appropriately functionalized silanes, and comprising in essence a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are joined to one another by oxygen atoms (siloxane link =Si-O-Si=), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being linked directly via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular Ci-Cio alkyl radicals and especially methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, and aryl radicals and especially phenyl.

[0183] The (d) silicone(s), if present in the composition used for the process according to the present invention, may be volatile silicone, non-volatile silicone, or combinations thereof.

[0184] The (d) silicone(s) may be selected from, but is not limited to, organopolysiloxanes, such as polydialkylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, aminomodified silicones, polyether-modified silicones, carboxyl-modified silicones, fatty acid- modified silicones, alcohol-modified silicones, aliphatic alcohol-modified silicones, epoxymodified silicones, fluorine-modified silicones, cyclic silicones, amino polyether-modified silicones, and mixtures thereof. The (d) silicone(s) may be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxane, and amino-modified silicones, and in particular selected from amino-modified silicones.

[0185] In one embodiment, the (d) silicone may be selected from organopolysiloxanes, amino- modified silicones (amino silicones), and mixtures thereof, preferably from aminosilicones.

[0186] The organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in the book by Walter Noll “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press. Among polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of linear polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, and polydimethylsiloxanes with hydroxydimethylsilyl end groups, for instance. Among polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of linear and branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes, for instance.

[0187] According to the present invention, the term “amino-modified silicone”, or aminosilicone, denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium, and more particularly at least one primary amine.

[0188] The amount of the (d) silicone(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is preferable that the composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises no silicone.

[0189] (Fatty Alcohol)

[0190] The composition used for the process according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one fatty alcohol. Two or more different types of (e) fatty alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (e) fatty alcohol or a combination of different types of (e) fatty alcohols may be used.

[0191] The term “fatty” here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0192] The (e) fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is chosen from C12-C24 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl groups. R may be or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0193] Non-limiting examples of the (e) fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

[0194] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

[0195] The (e) fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.

[0196] According to at least one embodiment, the (e) fatty alcohol used in the composition used for the process according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

[0197] It may be preferable that the (e) fatty alcohol be selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

[0198] The amount of the (e) faty alcohol(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0199] The amount of the (e) fatty alcohol(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0200] Thus, the amount of the (e) fatty alcohol(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0201] (Hydroxycarboxylic Acid)

[0202] The composition used for the process according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or a salt thereof. If two or more such hydroxyl carboxylic acids or salts thereof are used, they may be the same or different.

[0203] The term “hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups” here means an . organic compound which has at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxy groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the (f) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and two carboxyl groups are more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the (f) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups is also not limited, but 2 to 6 are preferable, and 2 to 4 are more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the (f) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups is not limited, but 3 to 8 are preferable, and 4 to 6 are more preferable.

[0204] The above organic compound may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the (f) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups may be selected from aliphatic or aromatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups. It is preferable that the (f) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups is selected from aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups, more preferably from saturated aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups, and even more preferably from saturated aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups and two carboxyl groups.

[0205] Examples of the (f) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups include, dihydroxy propanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxy butanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxy pentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid, and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxy hexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid, and talonic acid; hexahydroxy heptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid, and a mixture thereof.

[0206] It is preferable that the (f) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups be tartaric acid.

[0207] The type of the salt is not limited. Examples of the salt include alkaline metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as mono ethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. Sodium salt is preferable. If two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.

[0208] The amount of the (f) hydroxycarboxylic acid(s) having two or more hydroxyl groups or salt(s) thereof in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] The amount of the (f) hydroxycarboxylic acid(s) having two or more hydroxyl groups or salt(s) thereof in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0210] The amount of the (f) hydroxycarboxylic acid(s) having two or more hydroxyl groups or salt(s) thereof in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0211] (Water)

[0212] The composition used for the process according to the present invention may further comprise (g) water.

[0213] The amount of the (g) water in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 55% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0214] The amount of the (g) water in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0215] The amount of the (g) water in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 55% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0216] (pH)

[0217] The composition used for the process according to the present invention may have a pH of less than 7, preferably less than 6, and more preferably less than 5. The pH of the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be adjusted to be, for example, from 3 to less than 7, preferably from 3 to less than 6, and more preferably from 3 to less than 5, such as 4±0.5. The pH of the composition used for the process according to the present invention can be determined by measuring the pH of the aqueous phase of the composition.

[0218] In other words, it is preferable that the composition used for the process according to the present invention be acidic.

[0219] The pH of the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be controlled by adding at least one pH adjuster to the composition.

[0220] The pH adjuster may be selected from organic or inorganic bases and organic or inorganic acids, as well as salts thereof.

[0221] Examples of the organic base include primary, secondary and tertiary (poly) amines, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine and 1,3- propanediamine. Examples of the inorganic base include ammonia, ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and sodium carbonate.

[0222] Examples of the organic acid include carboxylic acid such as lactic acid. Examples of the inorganic acid include hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, orthophosphoric acid and sulphonic acid. Examples of the salt includes sodium phosphate and trisodium phosphate.

[0223] The pH adjuster(s) may be present in the composition used for the process according to the present invention in an amount sufficient to adjust the pH of the composition to the desired value, for example, ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0224] (Optional Components)

[0225] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned components, optional components typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants; oils; dyes; fillers; polyols such as glycols other than propanediol and glycerol; hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables, preservatives, and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.

[0226] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may comprise the above optional component(s) in an amount of from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0227] (Embodiments)

[0228] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 0.01% to 10% by weight of (a) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof; from 0.01% to 15% by weight of (b) at least one fatty amine; from 0.01% to 15% by weight of (c) propanediol; and less than 1% by weight of (d) at least one silicone.

[0229] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 0.05% to 5% by weight of (a’) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof, wherein the ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof is selected from the esters of the general formula (II) : in which: n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15,

[0230] COR' i CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

[0231] OR2O represents a diglyceryl residue of the following general formula (III): in which:

[0232] R'3 represents H or ORb represents a fatty acid residue; from 0.1% to 10% by weight of (b’) at least one fatty amidoamine; from 0.05% to 10% by weight of (c) propanediol; and less than 0.1% by weight of (c) at least one silicone.

[0233] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 0.1% to 1% by weight of (a”) polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimerdilinoleate copolymer; from 1% to 5% by weight of (b”) at least one selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and a mixture thereof; from 0.1% to 5% by weight of (c) propanediol; and less than 0.01% by weight of (d) at least one silicone.

[0234] (Preparation)

[0235] The composition used for the process according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0236] The composition used for the process according to the present invention can be in the form of a fluid, preferably a liquid or a paste, and more preferably a liquid.

[0237] {Treatment Step}

[0238] The process according to the present invention is intended for treating, preferably cosmetically treating, and more preferably conditioning keratin fibers such as hair.

[0239] The process according to the present invention comprises the step of applying the composition explained above onto keratin fibers.

[0240] The manner of applying the above composition onto the keratin fibers is not limited. For example, the above composition may be applied to the keratin fibers with fingers or hands. In another embodiment, the above composition may be applied onto the keratin fibers by spraying. In another embodiment, the above composition may be applied onto the keratin fibers by use of an applicator or device, such as a brush.

[0241] The above composition may be removed from the keratin fibers after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers. Thus, it is possible to perform, if necessary, a step of rinsing off the composition from the keratin fibers after the step of applying the above composition onto the keratin fibers. The step of rising may be performed by using water. After the step of rinsing, a step of drying the keratin fibers may be performed.

[0242] On the other hand, the above composition may be maintained on the keratin fibers after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers. Thus, after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers, a step of drying the keratin fibers may be performed.

[0243] The process according to the present invention is not a permanent reshaping process such as permanent waving or straightening for keratin fibers.

[0244] The keratin fibers to which the above compositions have been applied can be left for an appropriate time which is required to treat the keratin fibers. The time length for each treatment is not limited, but it may be from 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably from 1 minute to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 10 minutes. Thus, for example, the total time for the process according to the present invention may be from 3 to 60 minutes, preferably from 3 to 40 minutes, and more preferably from 3 minutes to 20 minutes.

[0245] The keratin fibers may be treated at room temperature. Alternatively, the keratin fibers may be heated at 25°C to 65°C, preferably 30°C to 60°C, more preferably 35°C to 55°C, and even more preferably 40°C to 50°C, before and / or during and / or after the step of applying the above composition onto the keratin fibers.

[0246] If necessary, the process according to the present invention may comprise the step of cleaning or cleansing keratin fibers, before applying the composition explained above onto the keratin fibers. This cleaning or cleansing step may be performed by shampooing and rinsing the keratin fibers with a shampoo and water. After the step of cleaning or cleansing, a step of drying the keratin fibers may be performed, before applying the composition explained above onto the keratin fibers.

[0247] The process according to the present invention has cosmetic purposes for keratin fibers. For example, the process according to the present invention is for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, other than permanent reshaping the keratin fibers, preferably for caring for keratin fibers, and more preferably for conditioning keratin fibers.

[0248] The process according to the present invention can enhance or improve the smoothness of keratin fibers such as hair.

[0249] The process according to the present invention can enhance or improve the suppleness of keratin fibers, preferably dry keratin fibers, and more preferably wet hair.

[0250] The process according to the present invention can enhance or improve the amount of coating of keratin fibers, preferably wet keratin fibers, and more preferably dry hair.

[0251] (Applications)

[0252] The composition according to the present invention can be used for treating, e.g., caring for or conditioning, keratin fibers. The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-off type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a rinse-off type hair cosmetic composition.

[0253] For example, the composition according to the present invention may be used in hair care cosmetic products such as shampoos, conditioners and the like.

[0254] [Use]

[0255] The present invention may also relate to a use of (c) propanediol in a composition for treating keratin fibers, comprising:

[0256] (a) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof; and

[0257] (b) at least one fatty amine, wherein the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (d) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, in order to enhance or improve the suppleness of keratin fibers, preferably dry keratin fibers, and more preferably dry hair, when the composition is applied onto the keratin fibers.

[0258] The present invention may also relate to a use of (c) propanediol in a composition for treating keratin fibers, comprising:

[0259] (a) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof; and

[0260] (b) at least one fatty amine, wherein the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (d) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, in order to enhance or improve the amount of coating of keratin fibers, preferably wet keratin fibers, and more preferably wet hair, when the composition is applied onto the keratin fibers.

[0261] The above explanations for the ingredients (a) to (d), as well as other optional ingredients, for the composition used for the process according to the present invention can apply to those for the use according to the present invention.

[0262] EXAMPLES

[0263] The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0264] Example 1 and Comparative Example 1

[0265] [Preparation]

[0266] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 (Ex. 1) and Comparative Example 1 (Comp. Ex. 1) was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition. Table 1

[0267] [Evaluation]

[0268] Hair swatches (2.7 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each evaluation. Each of the hair swatches was washed with a clarifying shampoo once. After shampooing, the hair swatch was rinsed with water. Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was applied onto each wet hair swatch at a rate of 0.45g of the composition / g of the hair.

[0269] After leaving the hair swatch for 5 minutes, the hair swatch was rinsed off under running water for 10 seconds to obtain a wet hair swatch. Then, the wet hair swatch was dried with a hair drier to obtain a dry hair swatch. The suppleness of the dry hair swatch was assessed by 5 panelists and scored from 0 (very poor) to 10 (very good). The scores were averaged.

[0270] The results are shown in the lines of “Dry Hair” in Table 1.

[0271] (Results)

[0272] The composition according to Example 1 which included (a) ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof (polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer), (b) fatty amine (stearamidopropyl dimethylamine) and (c) propanediol can provide keratin fibers with enhanced or improved dry keratin fibers with enhanced or improved suppleness.

[0273] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 which did not include (c) propanediol could not provide dry keratin fibers with suppleness comparable to the composition according to Example 1.

[0274] Example 2 and Comparative Example 2

[0275] [Preparation]

[0276] Each of the compositions according to Example 2 (Ex. 2) and Comparative Example 2 (Comp. Ex. 2) was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 2. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Table 2 are all based on “% by weight” as active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0277] Table 2

[0278] [Evaluation]

[0279] Hair swatches (2.7 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each evaluation. Each of the hair swatches was washed with a clarifying shampoo once. After shampooing, the hair swatch was rinsed with water. Each of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 was applied onto each wet hair swatch at a rate of 0.45g of the composition / g of the hair.

[0280] After leaving the hair swatch for 5 minutes, the hair swatch was rinsed off under running water for 10 seconds to obtain a wet hair swatch. The amount of coating of the wet hair swatch was assessed by 5 panelists and scored from 0 (very poor) to 10 (very good). The scores were averaged. The results are shown in the lines of “Wet Hair” in Table 2.

[0281] (Results)

[0282] The composition according to Example 2 which includes (a) ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof (polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer), (b) fatty amine (stearamidopropyl dimethylamine) and (c) propanediol can provide wet keratin fibers with enhanced or improved amount of coating on the keratin fibers.

[0283] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 2 which did not include (c) propandiol, but included butyleneglycol could not provide wet keratin fibers with sufficiently coated feeling comparable to the composition according to Example 2.

Claims

CLAIMS1. A process for treating, preferably cosmetically treating, and more preferably conditioning keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the step of: applying onto the keratin fibers at least one composition comprising(a) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof;(b) at least one fatty amine; and(c) propanediol, wherein the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (d) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The process according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, is selected from the esters of the following general formula (I):R3-OCO-Ri(-COO-R2-OCO-Ri)n-COO-R3(I) in which:CORi CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,OR2O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue,OR3 represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, or the following general formula (II):in which: n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15,COR'iCO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,O 2O represents a diglyceryl residue of the following general formula (III):in which:Rh represents H or OR'3 represents a fatty acid residue, or the following general formula (IV):HO-Rr-(-OCO-R2"-COO-Ri"-)h-OH (IV)in which:ORr'O represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of a dimerdilinoleic acid,COR2"CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue, and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9.

3. The process according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, is selected from the group consisting of the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, and a mixture thereof.

4. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the (a) ester(s) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof, in the composition is from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) fatty amine is chosen from fatty amidoamines, and preferably from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and a mixture thereof.

6. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of the (b) fatty amine(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the (c) propanediol is 1,3 -propanediol.

8. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of the (c) propanediol in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one fatty alcohol.

10. The process according to Claim 9, wherein the (e) fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

11. The process according to Claim 9 or 10, wherein the amount of the (e) fatty alcohol(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the composition further comprises (I) at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxylgroups or a salt thereof.

13. The process according to Claim 12, wherein the (f) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups is selected from aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups, preferably from saturated aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups, more preferably from saturated aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups and two carboxyl groups, and even more preferably the (f) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups is tartaric acid.

14. The process according to Claim 12 or 13, wherein the amount of the (f) hydroxycarboxylic acid(s) having two or more hydroxyl groups or salt(s) thereof in the composition is from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, wherein the process further comprises the step of rinsing off the composition from the keratin fibers.

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