Hair care composition based on plant wax and specific cationic surfactants

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, notably for haircare, comprising at least one plant wax, at least one first cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amines and at least one second cationic surfactant of the ammonium diester type. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, comprising a step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin materials.

Description

[0001] HAIR CARE COMPOSITION BASED ON PLANT WAX AND SPECIFIC CATIONIC SURFACTANTS

[0002] The present invention relates to a composition, notably for hair care, comprising at least one plant wax, at least one first cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amines and at least one second cationic surfactant of the ammonium diester type.

[0003] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials, comprising a step of applying at least one composition as defined below to said keratin materials.

[0004] Hair may be damaged or embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as the light and weathering, or by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and / or relaxing. To overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to apply haircare that can condition the hair. These haircare compositions may be conditioning shampoos or hair conditioners, which may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or creams of varying thickness.

[0005] To improve the cosmetic properties of these compositions, notably those intended for sensitized hair, it is known practice to introduce silicones therein. Specifically, silicones can be used to improve the cosmetic properties, notably disentangling, softness to the touch, and volume of the head of hair, and to preserve and reinforce the intrinsic mechanical properties of keratin fibres, such as tensile strength, breaking strength and elasticity, or their resistance to swelling in an aqueous environment.

[0006] However, the presence of silicone has several drawbacks: its environmental profile (biodegradability, water footprint) is not always optimal, the appearance of the composition is generally opaque (not aesthetic), and it quickly makes the hair greasy and often weighs it down.

[0007] In addition, repeated applications of these compositions often have the effect of giving the hair an unpleasant feel, loss of volume and liveliness of the head of hair, and occasionally lack of sheen.

[0008] Moreover, research in the field of texture has for years occupied a central role in cosmetics in the development of creams for the body, the face, the hands, etc., but still remains very sparingly developed in the hair field and notably in the haircare field. As a result, current haircare compositions do not generally have textures that are pleasant to the touch for consumers, which are notably firm and at the same time fondant.

[0009] Specifically, the current compositions generally having a thick texture are not very fondant and are difficult to spread homogeneously over keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres such as the hair.

[0010] These findings led to interest in developing a hair care composition that is advantageously silicone-free, having improved working qualities, in particular a firm and fondant texture that is easy to apply to keratin fibres, spreads easily over the fibres, and “melts” quickly upon application, and also good cosmetic properties, in particular the ability to repair hair ends and give keratin fibres a soft feel, suppleness, individualization and smoothness.

[0011] It is particularly of interest to succeed in developing a composition that has both a firm and fondant texture on application, which allows uniform deposition of the composition on keratin materials, and more preferentially on keratin fibres such as the hair.

[0012] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products designed and developed while taking account of environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges.

[0013] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus enabling these environmental challenges to be met.

[0014] In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0015] These aims are achieved with the present invention, one subject of which is notably a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, notably a hair composition, comprising:

[0016] (i) at least one plant wax,

[0017] (ii) at least one first cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amines, and

[0018] (iii) at least one second cationic surfactant of formula (A) below: in which:

[0019] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,

[0020] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) Ci- C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,

[0021] - A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and

[0022] -X" represents an anion, and wherein the total content of first and second cationic surfactants ii) and iii) is in the range from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] It has been found that the composition according to the invention has good working qualities and good cosmetic properties, notably good coating of the keratin fibres by the composition, giving them good protection against the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and weathering, or against mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving and / or relaxing, and allowing the effective elimination of the rough feel of said fibres.

[0024] The composition according to the invention also has a texture that differs from the haircare compositions usually used, with a very thick (very firm) balm texture and that is particularly fondant on application, notably on contact with keratin fibres such as the hair.

[0025] The composition according to the invention succeeds in having a firm and fondant texture on application, while at the same time affording homogeneous deposition thereof on keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres such as the hair.

[0026] The fondant nature corresponds in particular to the capacity of the product to become fluidized on contact with the hair materials during its application.

[0027] Moreover, it has been observed that the composition according to the invention repairs hair ends and makes keratin fibres soft, supple and smooth to the touch. Moreover, the Applicant has also found that the composition according to the invention can advantageously be formulated without silicone compounds, without sacrificing the abovementioned advantageous properties.

[0028] A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment process, notably for hair, comprising at least one step of applying to the keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, at least one composition as described below.

[0029] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become more apparent on reading the description and the example that follows.

[0030] In the present description, and unless otherwise stated:

[0031] - the term “at least one” is equivalent to the term “one or more” and can be replaced therewith;

[0032] - the term “between... and...” is equivalent to the term “ranging from... to...” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included;

[0033] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term “greater than” and, respectively, the term “less than” refer to an open range which is strictly greater, or, respectively, strictly less, and thus that the limits are not included;

[0034] - according to the present patent application, the term “keratin materials” more particularly denotes 1) the skin of the body and / or face (including the scalp) and / or nails, and 2) keratin fibres, and even more particularly the scalp and the hair;

[0035] - according to the present patent application, the term “keratin fibres” particularly means human keratin fibres such as head hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and bodily hair, preferentially head hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, even more preferentially head hair;

[0036] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term “the hair” means head hair. This term does not correspond to bodily hairs, the eyebrows or the eyelashes.

[0037] - according to the present patent application, the term “fatty acid” means an organic acid comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0038] - according to the present patent application, the term “fatty alcohol” means an alcohol comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is silicone-free.

[0039] The term “silicone-free” means that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any silicone, or that the silicone(s) present in the composition according to the invention are included in a total content of less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, and better still is free of silicone (0%).

[0040] The term “silicone” means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones and dimethiconols.

[0041] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of anionic surfactants.

[0042] The term “free of anionic surfactants” means that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any anionic surfactants, or that the anionic surfactant(s) present in the composition according to the invention are included in a total content of less than or equal to 0.1 % by weight, preferably less than 0.05 % relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, and better still is free of anionic surfactants (0%).

[0043] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

[0044] In the present description, a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

[0045] Plant waxes:

[0046] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one plant wax.

[0047] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystal organization.

[0048] In particular, the wax(es) that are suitable for use in the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C, and notably up to 120°C. More particularly, the wax(es) that are suitable for use in the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 °C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.

[0049] For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the crystallizable fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments. Such a measurement method is described, for example, in WO 2013 / 190 080.

[0050] In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.

[0051] The plant wax(es) may be unmodified (native) or modified (for example hydrogenated); it is preferred to use unmodified plant waxes.

[0052] For the purposes of the present invention, a plant wax is a wax obtained from plants, for example extracted from leaves, flowers, fruits, skin (for example citrus plants), seeds or stems.

[0053] Mention may notably be made of jojoba wax, rice bran wax (Oryza sativa cera), carnauba wax (Copemicia cerifera cera), candelilla wax (Candelilla cera), sunflower wax (Helianthus annuus seed cera), ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, mimosa blossom wax (Acacia decurrens flower cera), and absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by the company Bertin (France).

[0054] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of plant oils containing linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains. Among these, mention may be made notably of isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso- Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil and hydrogenated coconut kernel oil.

[0055] Use may also be made of the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim.

[0056] It is also possible to use microwaxes, notably carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders.

[0057] Preferably, the plant wax(es) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from jojoba wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from jojoba wax, rice bran wax, and mixtures thereof, and better still from rice bran wax.

[0058] Preferably, the total content of plant wax(es) is in the range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 12% by weight, better still, from 1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] Preferably, the total content of plant wax(es) chosen from jojoba wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 12% by weight, better still from 1% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 1.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] Preferably, the total content of plant wax(es) chosen from jojoba wax, rice bran wax, and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 12% by weight, better still from 1% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 1.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Fatty amine-type cationic surfactants:

[0062] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one first cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amines.

[0063] More preferentially, the fatty amine(s) are chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines (optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof and comprising at least one C6-C30, and preferably C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0064] Said cationic surfactants chosen from fatty amines are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-0 groups.

[0065] Preferably, the cationic surfactants chosen from fatty amines that may be used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.

[0066] Preferably, the cationic surfactants chosen from fatty amines that may be used according to the invention comprise at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, and more preferentially at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0067] As cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0068] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0069] The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0070] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.

[0071] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may most particularly be made of the amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2 in which:

[0072] - R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5- C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical;

[0073] - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0074] - R’ , which may be identical or different, represent a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0075] Mention may in particular be made of the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stear amidopropyldimethylamine, isostear amidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine. lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine. behenamidopropyldimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyldimethylamine. palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyldimethylamine. soyamidopropyldimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyldimethylamine. cocamidopropyldimethylamine, minkamidopropyldimethylamine. oatamidopropyldimethylamine, sesamidopropyldimethylamine. tallamidopropyldimethylamine, olivamidopropyldimethylamine. palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, stear amidoethyldiethylamine. brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not rule out the fact that they can “quaternize” in situ).

[0077] Preferably, the first cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amines are chosen from fatty amidoamines.

[0078] Preferably, the first cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amines are chosen from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof, and better still from stearamidopropyldimethylamine .

[0079] Preferably, the total content of first cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amines is within the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] Preferably, the total content of first cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines is within the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] Preferably, the total content of first cationic surfactant(s) chosen from the fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2 is within the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] Preferably, the total content of first cationic surfactant(s) chosen from stearamidopropyldimethylamine, bras sic amidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof is within the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially between 0.2% and 5% by weight, and better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] The cationic surfactants of formula (A):

[0084] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one second cationic surfactant of formula (A) below: in which:

[0085] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,

[0086] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) Ci-

[0087] C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,

[0088] - A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and

[0089] -X" represents an anion.

[0090] Preferably, Ri and R2 are linear.

[0091] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are saturated.

[0092] According to another embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are unsaturated. Preferably, Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group, and even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group.

[0093] Preferably, A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a C1-C2 alkyl group, and even more preferentially a C2 alkyl group. Preferably, A and A’ are identical.

[0094] Preferably, R3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and better still R3 represents a methyl group.

[0095] Preferably, R4 is chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, more preferentially Ci- C2 alkyl groups, better still a methyl group; b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, more preferentially C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl groups, better still the CH2CH2OH group.

[0096] The anion X" preferably represents a) a halide, in particular a chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, c) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate, d) a C1-C4 alkyl aryl sulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, j) any other ammonium-compatible anion bearing an ester function.

[0097] More preferentially, the anion X ’ represents a) a halide or b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate. Even more preferentially, the anion X ’ represents a chloride ion or a metho sulfate group.

[0098] Preferably, the second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that:

[0099] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group, and even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group, which is preferably linear, and saturated or unsaturated.

[0100] - A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4, more preferentially C1-C2 and even more preferentially C2 alkyl group; preferably, A and A' are identical;

[0101] -R3 represents a C1-C4 and more preferentially C1-C2 alkyl group, better still, R3 represents a methyl group;

[0102] - R4 represents a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, more preferentially a C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl group; or a C1-C4 and more preferentially C1-C2 alkyl group, better still a methyl group;

[0103] - X" represents a) a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, c) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate, d) a C1-C4 alkyl aryl sulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid, such as an acetate or a lactate; more preferentially, the anion X" represents a) a halide or b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate; even more preferentially, the anion X" represents a chloride ion or a metho sulfate group.

[0104] Preferentially, the second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that:

[0105] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a saturated linear C9-C21 hydrocarbon group,

[0106] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from C1-C2 alkyl groups and C2- C3 hydroxy alkyl groups,

[0107] - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a C1-C2 alkyl group; preferably, A and A' are identical; and

[0108] - X" represents an anion chosen from halides and C1-C4 alkyl sulfate groups.

[0109] According to the invention, the second cationic surfactants iii) used in the composition are different from the first cationic surfactants of fatty amine type ii) also used in the composition.

[0110] Preferably, the second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are chosen from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleylethyldimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimonium chloride, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. more preferentially from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from distearoylethyldimonium chloride.

[0111] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a second cationic surfactant of formula (A) in salt form, notably a distearoylethyldimonium chloride.

[0112] Preferably, the total content of second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 7% by weight, even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the total content of second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) chosen from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 8% by weight, better from 1.5% to 7% by weight, and even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] Preferably, the total content of second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) chosen from distearoylethyldimonium chloride is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 7% by weight, even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0114] The total content of first and second cationic surfactants ii) and iii) in the composition is in the range from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] More preferentially, total content of first and second cationic surfactants ii) and iii) in the composition is in the range from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] Additional cationic surfactants:

[0117] The composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise at least one additional cationic surfactant.

[0118] The optional additional cationic surfactant(s) are different from the first cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amines and from the second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) as described previously.

[0119] Among the additional cationic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may also be made of quaternary ammonium salts, quaternary diammonium salts, quaternary triammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0120] The additional cationic surfactants chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, quaternary diammonium salts and / or quaternary triammonium salts are different from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) and from the cationic surfactants of fatty amine type as described previously. The additional cationic surfactants other than the cationic surfactants of formula (A) and the cationic surfactants of fatty amine type as described previously are preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, quaternary diammonium salts and quaternary triammonium salts as described below, and mixtures thereof.

[0121] As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may notably be made of:

[0122] - the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la): in which: the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms notably such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens; and

[0123] X" is an anion notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

[0124] The aliphatic groups Rs to Rn may be chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxy alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2- Ce)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkyl acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0125] Mention may notably be made of tetraalkylammonium halides, notably chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group includes from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride.

[0126] Mention may also be made of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate) -ammonium halides, and notably chlorides; notably the product sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk. - the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (Ila): in which:

[0127] R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives,

[0128] R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

[0129] R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,

[0130] R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group,

[0131] X" is an anion notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

[0132] Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik.

[0133] As quaternary diammonium or quaternary triammonium salts, mention may notably be made of those of formula (Illa): in which:

[0134] - Ri6 denotes an alkyl group including from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms;

[0135] - R17 denotes hydrogen or an alkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), Ri6a, Ri7a and Ri8a, which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0136] - Ri8, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0137] - X" is an anion notably chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0138] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75), sold by the company Finetex.

[0139] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, of formula (IVa) below: in which:

[0140] - R22 is chosen from Ci-Ce alkyl groups and Ci-Ce hydroxy alkyl or dihydroxy alkyl groups,

[0141] - R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27, and a hydrogen atom,

[0142] - R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-Ce hydrocarbon groups R29, a hydrogen atom,

[0143] - R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups,

[0144] - r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6,

[0145] - rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1,

[0146] - y is an integer from 1 to 10,

[0147] - x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10,

[0148] - X" is an anion, it being understood that r2 + rl = 2r and tl + t2 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z equals 1 to 15, with the proviso that when x is 0, then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0, then R25 denotes R29.

[0149] The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0150] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

[0151] When R23 is a hydrocarbon group R27, it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or else may comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0152] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0153] Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, have a value of 0 or 1.

[0154] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0155] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, have a value of 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0156] The anion X" is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, a (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonate or a (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate or any other anion that is compatible with ammonium bearing an ester function. The anion X" is more particularly a chloride, a methyl sulfate or an ethyl sulfate.

[0157] Use is more particularly made, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (IV a) in which:

[0158] - R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

[0159] - x and y are equal to 1,

[0160] - z is equal to 0 or 1,

[0161] - r, s and t are equal to 2,

[0162] - R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, or a hydrogen atom,

[0163] - R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-, or a hydrogen atom,

[0164] - R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0165] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0166] When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional cationic surfactants of formula (la), (Ila), (Illa) and / or (IVa), they are necessarily chosen from cationic surfactants other than the cationic surfactants of formula (A) and cationic surfactants of fatty amine type as described previously. Additional fatty substances:

[0167] The composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise at least one additional fatty substance, different from the plant waxes i) described previously and the cationic surfactants ii) and iii) described previously.

[0168] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one additional fatty substance, different from the plant waxes i) described previously.

[0169] According to the invention, the additional fatty substance(s) are also different from the cationic surfactants ii) and iii) described previously.

[0170] The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0171] The additional fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0172] Preferably, the additional fatty substances optionally present are non-silicone substances, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-0 groups.

[0173] The additional fatty substances that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances and / or solid fatty substances. The term “liquid fatty substance” means a fatty substance having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa). The term “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance having a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013X105Pa).

[0174] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa). More particularly, the additional liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention may be chosen from liquid fatty acids, Ce to Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0175] It is recalled that the fatty alcohols and esters more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0176] The term “fatty acid” means a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty acids according to the invention preferentially comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.

[0177] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the composition according to the invention include at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0178] Preferably, the fatty acids include at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0179] Preferably, the fatty acids include at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, unsaturated alkyl chain comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0180] More preferentially, the fatty acids according to the invention are chosen from compounds having the structure R-C(O)OH in which R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferentially from 11 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0181] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “liquid fatty acid” means a fatty acid with a melting point below or equal to 25 °C, preferably below or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa). The liquid fatty acid(s) according to the invention may be chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferentially oleic acid.

[0182] As regards the Ce-Cie liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0183] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0184] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0185] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro- 1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "Flutec® PCI" and "Flutec® PC3" by the company BNFE Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or else bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M.

[0186] The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.

[0187] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols different from the triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoacids or poly acids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0188] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, one at least of the alcohol or the acid is branched.

[0189] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate or 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0190] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0191] Esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0192] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaery thrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0193] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C<> to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described hereinbelow.

[0194] Mention may be made, as suitable sugars, for example, of sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and derivatives thereof, in particular alkylated derivatives thereof, such as methylated derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0195] The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may notably be chosen from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0196] The esters can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0197] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo- stearate and palmito- stearate esters.

[0198] More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters and notably of mono- or dioleates, mono- or distearates, mono- or dibehenates, mono- or dioleopalmitates, mono- or dilinoleates, mono- or dilinolenates or mono- or dioleostearates of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0199] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0200] Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.

[0201] Preferably, the additional fatty substances may be chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from plant oils and liquid fatty esters, and also mixtures thereof. The additional solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acids, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, mineral or synthetic waxes other than plant wax, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0202] The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0203] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0204] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0205] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1 -hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1- docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1 -tetracos anol); ceryl alcohol (or 1 -hexacos anol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0206] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0207] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “solid fatty acid” means a fatty acid with a melting point above 25°C, preferably above or equal to 28°C, more preferentially above or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).

[0208] The solid fatty acids used in the present invention are notably chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0209] Particularly preferably, the solid fatty acid(s) are chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, cetylic acid and stearic acid. The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0210] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0211] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols may also be used.

[0212] Mention may notably be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0213] Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, particularly myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, particularly myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0214] Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol are chosen from the compounds having the INCI name cetyl esters.

[0215] Waxes other than plant waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from mineral waxes, non-silicone synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0216] Notably, mention may be made of non-plant-based microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

[0217] Mention may also be made of non-plant-based C20 to Ceo microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW. Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L Polyethylene.

[0218] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.

[0219] It is also possible to use synthetic microwaxes in the compositions of the invention, such as the products sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the name Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.

[0220] The waxes other than plant waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0221] Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0222] The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:

[0223] R1denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14- C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0224] R2denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0225] R3denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3may also denote a C15-C26 a-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 a-hydroxy acid.

[0226] The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2denotes a hydrogen atom and R3denotes a saturated linear C15 group. Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0227] Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R3denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0228] As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N- palmitoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N- behenoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N- [2-hydroxypalmitoyl] aminooctadecane- 1,3- diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1, 3, 4-triol and in particular N- stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3-diol, N- linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N- behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N- (2-hydroxy ethyl) -N- (3 -cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) amide and bis(N -hydroxyethyl-N- cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N- Oleoyldihydro sphingosine will preferably be used.

[0229] The additional solid fatty substances are advantageously chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mixtures of a cetyl alcohol and a stearyl alcohol such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, solid esters of a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or of a C9-C26 fatty alcohol, such as the compounds having the INCI name Cetyl Esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0230] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional solid fatty substances; more preferentially chosen from (a) solid C8-C30 fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol, (b) C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitates, (c) C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate, (d) C9-C26 alkylstearates, notably myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates, (e) and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from a) mixtures of solid C8-C30 fatty alcohols such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, (b) C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, (c) C9-C26 alkyl myristates, (d) C9-C26 alkyl stearates, (e) and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the total content of the additional fatty substance(s), when they are present, ranges from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight, better still from 7% to 18% by weight, and even better still from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0231] Preferably, the total content of the additional solid fatty substance(s), when they are present in the composition, ranges from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight, better still from 7% to 18% by weight, and even better still from 10% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] Preferably, the total content of additional solid fatty substances chosen from solid C6-C40 fatty alcohols, solid esters of C9-C26 carboxylic acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol, ranges from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight, better still from 7% to 18% by weight, and even better still from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0233] Preferably, the total content of the solid C6-C40 fatty alcohol(s), when present in the composition, ranges from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 3% to 20% by weight, and better still from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0234] Preferably, the weight ratio of the content of plant wax(es) (i) to the total content of fatty substance(s) in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 0.7, more preferentially from 0.03 to 0.6, even more preferentially from 0.05 to 0.5, and better still from 0.08 to 0.4. It is understood that the fatty substances according to the invention correspond to the additional fatty substances and plant waxes (i).

[0235] The polyols:

[0236] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more polyols.

[0237] For the purposes of the present invention the term “polyol” refers to an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain, preferably of C2-C30, more preferentially C3-C12, even more preferentially C3-C5, optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) borne by different carbon atoms, this compound being cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, the polyols are different from the fatty alcohols as defined previously.

[0238] More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, more preferentially from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, even more preferentially from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.

[0239] The polyol(s) are preferably chosen from diglycerol, glycerol, propylene glycol, propane- 1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane- 1,2-diol, octane- 1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars, such as glucose, and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycerol, propane- 1,3- diol and mixtures thereof.

[0240] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more polyols chosen from diglycerol, glycerol, propylene glycol, propane- 1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane - 1,2-diol, octane- 1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars, such as glucose, and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycerol, propane- 1,3-diol and mixtures thereof.

[0241] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more polyols chosen from propylene glycol, propane- 1,3-diol, glycerol and a mixture thereof, better still propylene glycol and glycerol, and even better still glycerol.

[0242] Preferably, when they are present in the composition, the polyol(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0243] Water

[0244] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises water.

[0245] Preferably, the total water content is in the range from 55% to 98% by weight, preferentially from 60% to 95% by weight, more preferentially from 65% to 92% by weight, even more preferentially from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0246] [)H

[0247] Preferably, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 9, more preferentially between 3.1 and 7, even more preferentially between 3.2 and 6, and better still between 3.5 and 5.5. The pH may be adjusted to the desired value by means of the basifying agents or acidifying agents that are customarily used.

[0248] Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for example hydrochloric acid or orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for example acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0249] Among the basifying agents, mention may be made of aqueous ammonia and mineral or organic hydroxides.

[0250] Preferably, an acidifying agent is used to adjust the pH, more preferentially lactic acid.

[0251] Additives

[0252] The composition according to the invention may also contain additives commonly used in cosmetics, for instance antifoams, thickeners other than the compounds described previously, moisturizers, clays, mineral fillers, UV filters, fragrances, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, vitamins, preserving agents, and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0253] A person skilled in the art will take care to select these optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0254] The composition according to the invention may optionally be formulated in the form of a cream.

[0255] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, notably a haircare process, for keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, preferably a process for conditioning keratin fibres, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined previously to the keratin fibres.

[0256] The application of the composition according to the invention to the keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, may be performed on dry or wet hair, preferably wet hair, and also on all types of light or dark, natural or dyed, permanent- waved, bleached or relaxed hair.

[0257] The application of the composition according to the invention to the keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, may be performed by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush, a heating bag, an applicator, a sponge or with the fingers.

[0258] The application of the composition according to the invention is preferably performed between 25°C and 40°C.

[0259] Advantageously, the application of the composition according to the invention is followed by a leave-on time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, more preferentially from 2 to 10 minutes.

[0260] Preferably, a step of rinsing with water is performed after the application of the composition according to the invention to the keratin materials and after an optional leave-on time.

[0261] Another subject of the invention is the use of the composition as described previously for hair treatment, preferably for haircare and hair conditioning.

[0262] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0263] Examples:

[0264] Example 1:

[0265] Composition A according to the invention and comparative composition B, as described in the table below, were prepared. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).

[0266] [Table 1]

[0267] (1) melting point = 50°C

[0268] (2) melting point = 35°C

[0269] Thick white creams with a smooth and shiny appearance are obtained, which can be used as rinse-out care composition for the hair (of conditioning, hair conditioner, mask type, etc.).

[0270] Application protocol for the sensory evaluation:

[0271] The above compositions are applied to locks of SA20 sensitized Caucasian hair.

[0272] The locks are first cleaned by applying a standard treatment shampoo (L'Oreal Paris - Elseve DreamLong reconstructing shampoo) at a rate of 0.3 g of shampoo per gram of hair. The locks are massaged until the shampoo has formed a lather. The locks are then rinsed with water.

[0273] Each composition A and B is applied to one of the washed locks while they are still wet, at a rate of 0.45 g of composition per gram of lock, and the locks are then left in the open air for 5 minutes. The locks are then rinsed with water for 10 seconds.

[0274] Sensory evaluation protocol and results obtained:

[0275] On application, the experts note that the fondant nature of the composition is more marked for the composition according to the invention than for the comparative composition.

[0276] After the above treatment, the locks of hair were evaluated under blind conditions by a panel of six selected individuals trained in the sensory evaluation of locks of hair.

[0277] The evaluation was performed on the coating of the compositions on wet hair.

[0278] The evaluation was performed under blind conditions, in the following manner: the expert takes a lock of hair and slides their fingers from the roots to the tips, and thus evaluates the presence and homogeneity of a deposit.

[0279] Each expert gives a score on a scale of 0 to 5, in increments of 0.5. The greater and more uniform the deposit, the better the hair is coated and the better the roughness of the hair is masked. The scores correspond to the criteria below:

[0280] 0 = very poor coating of the hair with the composition, the roughness of the hair is very strongly felt (the hair appears to be untreated)

[0281] 1 = hair very sparingly coated with the composition, the roughness of the hair is strongly felt

[0282] 2 = hair sparingly coated with the composition, the roughness of the hair is clearly felt

[0283] 3 = hair moderately coated with the composition, the roughness of the hair is moderately felt

[0284] 4 = hair well coated with the composition, the roughness of the hair is barely felt

[0285] 5 = hair very well coated with the composition (no more hair roughness is perceptible to the touch: the composition has perfectly treated the hair)

[0286] A score of 3 is awarded as reference to the comparative composition.

[0287] The results are as follows:

[0288] [Table 2]

[0289] These results show an improvement in the coating of the hair with the composition according to the invention relative to the coating obtained with the comparative composition.

[0290] Hair treated with the composition according to the invention is seen as better treated, with less roughness, and is more repaired than hair treated with the comparative composition.

[0291] Example 2:

[0292] Composition A’ according to the invention, as described in the table below, was prepared. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM). [Table 3]

[0293] Composition A’ spreads easily on the hair and has a very good fondant nature on application. It leads to very good cosmetic properties, notably in terms of uniform coating of the fibre and to a smooth feel of the head of hair. It is also noted that hair treated with composition A’ according to the invention has more body.

[0294] Example 3:

[0295] Compositions A and E according to the invention and comparative compositions C, D and F, as described in the table 4 below, were prepared. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).

[0296] [Table 4]

[0297] The above compositions are applied to locks of SA20 sensitized Caucasian hair.

[0298] The locks are first cleaned by applying a standard treatment shampoo (DOP shampoo) at a rate of 0.3 g of shampoo per gram of hair. The locks are massaged until the shampoo has formed a lather. The locks are then rinsed with water for 15 seconds.

[0299] Then, each composition A, C, D, E and F is applied to one of the washed locks while they are still wet, at a rate of 2.5g of composition for 2.4g gram of lock, and the locks are then left in the open air for 5 minutes. The locks are then rinsed 21 times with water.

[0300] The suppleness, the smoothness and the hair individualization conferred by the compositions A, C and D on wet hair, and the smoothness and the coating conferred by the compositions E and F on dry hair (dried by hairdryer), were evaluated under blind conditions by a panel of three experts / selected individuals trained in the sensory evaluation of locks of hair.

[0301] For the evaluation of smoothness, the expert takes a lock of hair at the root and slides it between their fingers along the entire length of the lock to the ends. The more uniform and consistent the hair is from root to end, the less rough it is, the less it catches on the fingers, and the better the smoothness.

[0302] For the evaluation of suppleness, the expert takes a lock of hair fully in their hands and tries to bend it. The more easily the hair can be folded or bent, the more malleable it is, and the better its suppleness.

[0303] For the coating, the greater and more uniform the deposit, the better the hair is coated.

[0304] Each expert gives a score ranging from 0 (absent) to 5 (strong), in increments of 0.5 for each parameter evaluated.

[0305] The results (means and standard deviations) are as follows:

[0306] [Table 5]

[0307] These results show better suppleness, smoothness and individualization for the wet hair treated with the composition A according to the invention than the wet hair treated with the comparative composition C or D.

[0308] [Table 6]

[0309] These results show better smoothness and coating for the dry hair treated with the composition E according to the invention than the dry hair treated with the comparative composition F.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Composition comprising:(i) at least one plant wax,(ii) at least one first cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amines,(iii) at least one second cationic surfactant of formula (A) below:in which:- Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,- R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) Ci- C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,- A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and-X" represents an anion; and wherein the total content of first and second cationic surfactants ii) and iii) is in the range from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the plant wax(es) are chosen from jojoba wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from jojoba wax, rice bran wax, and mixtures thereof, and better still from rice bran wax.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of plant wax(es) is in the range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 12% by weight, better still from 1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said first cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from fatty amidoamines; preferably from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyldimethylamine .

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the first cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amines is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially between 0.2% and 5% by weight, and better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that:- Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group and even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group;- A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group and even more preferentially a C2 alkyl group; preferably, A and A' are identical;- R3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group and more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group; better still, R3 represents a methyl group;- R4 represents a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C4 and more preferentially C1-C2 alkyl group; better still, R4 represents a methyl group;- X" represents a) a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, c) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate, d) a C1-C4 alkyl aryl sulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid, such as an acetate or a lactate; more preferentially, the anion X" represents a) a halide or b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate; even more preferentially, the anion X" represents a chloride ion or a metho sulfate group.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are chosen fromdicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleylethyldimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimonium chloride, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. more preferentially from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from distearoylethyldimonium chloride.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of second cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 7% by weight, even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of first and second cationic surfactants ii) and iii) is in the range from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional fatty substance, other than the plant waxes (i) and the cationic surfactants (ii) and (iii); preferably chosen from solid fatty substances; preferentially from (a) solid C8-C30 fatty alcohols, (b) C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, (c) C9-C26 alkyl myristates, (d) C9-C26 alkylstearates, (e) and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from a) mixtures of solid C8-C30 fatty alcohols, (b) C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, (c) C9-C26 alkyl myristates, (d) C9-C26 alkyl stearates, (e) and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the content of plant wax(es) (i) to the total content of fatty substance(s) ranges from 0.01 to 0.7, more preferentially from 0.03 to 0.6, even more preferentially from 0.05 to 0.5, and better still from 0.08 to 0.4.

12. Cosmetic treatment process, in particular a hair treatment process, for keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, preferably a process for conditioning keratin fibres, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 11.

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