Washing and foaming composition for keratin fibres comprising at least one glucamide, a particular mixture of surfactants and at least one cationic polysaccharide
A sulfate-free hair washing composition using acyl isethionates, amino acid derivatives, and cationic polysaccharides addresses foaming and conditioning issues, achieving clean, soft, and supple hair with reduced environmental impact.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2025-10-17
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-23
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair washing compositions based on anionic surfactants and silicones suffer from inadequate foaming initiation, quality, and texture, leading to greasy hair, loss of volume, and lack of sheen, while also contributing to environmental concerns due to petrochemical use.
A composition comprising acyl isethionates, amino acid derivatives, glucamide compounds, and cationic polysaccharides, along with amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, to enhance foaming and conditioning properties, while being sulfate-free and environmentally friendly.
The composition provides excellent washing power, generating rich, creamy foam, leaving hair clean, soft, supple, and manageable, with improved cosmetic properties and reduced environmental impact.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] WASHING AND FOAMING COMPOSITION FOR KERATIN FIBRES COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE GLUCAMIDE, A PARTICULAR MIXTURE OF SURFACTANTS AND AT LEAST ONE CATIONIC POLYSACCHARIDE
[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, notably a hair composition, in particular a foaming composition for washing keratin materials comprising several anionic surfactants, at least one glucamide compound, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant and at least one cationic polysaccharide.
[0003] The invention also relates to the process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, comprising the application of the composition according to the invention to said keratin materials.
[0004] It is common practice to use detergent compositions (such as shampoos) based essentially on surfactants, for cleansing and / or washing keratin fibres such as the hair. These compositions are applied to wet hair and the foam generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the various types of dirt initially present on the hair or the skin.
[0005] In addition, it is known practice to propose shampoos, in particular for hair that is sensitized or embrittled to various degrees following the action of atmospheric agents or repeated mechanical or chemical treatments, containing conditioning agents such as silicones, in order to confer conditioning properties on the keratin fibres, for example a better feel, greater suppleness, or easy disentangling.
[0006] However, these washing compositions based on anionic surfactants, generally of sulfate type, and on silicones, have several drawbacks. In particular, the initiation of foaming, the amount of foam generated and more particularly the quality and texture of the foam are deemed to be insufficient.
[0007] In addition, repeated applications of these silicone-based compositions often have the effect of giving the hair an unpleasant feel (hair gets greasy again quickly), loss of volume (lank hair) and of bounce of the head of hair, and occasionally lack of sheen.
[0008] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e., products designed and developed while taking account of environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges.
[0009] It is thus proving essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby making it possible to respond to these environmental issues. In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0010] Hence the interest in developing a composition which is intended for the treatment of keratin fibres, which is advantageously free of anionic surfactants of sulfate type (sulfate-free), which has good cosmetic properties and improved working qualities, and which is capable of washing keratin fibres without making them lank, so as to give the keratin fibres good conditioning properties.
[0011] There is therefore a real need to develop compositions which are more environmentally friendly, and preferably sulfate-free, which make it possible to obtain excellent washing and working properties, in particular in terms of the initiation of foaming, quality and amount of foam generated, and more particularly the texture of the foam, notably providing good creaminess.
[0012] It is also advantageous for these compositions to confer good conditioning properties on the keratin fibres, in particular in terms of suppleness, smoothness to the touch, disentangling and coating of the keratin fibres.
[0013] These aims are achieved with the present invention, one subject of which is notably a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising:
[0014] (i) at least one first anionic surfactant chosen from acyl isethionates,
[0015] (ii) at least one second anionic surfactant chosen from amino acid derivatives,
[0016] (iii) from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one glucamide compound,
[0017] (iv) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, and
[0018] (v) at least one cationic polysaccharide.
[0019] It has been found that the composition according to the invention has excellent keratin fibre-washing power. In particular, the hair treated with the composition according to the invention is particularly clean and has good cosmetic properties. It makes it possible to remove dirt effectively and obtain a clean visual effect of the keratin fibres.
[0020] It has also been noted that the hair thus treated is particularly light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to disentangle and more manageable. The composition according to the invention coats the hair without however making it lank. In addition, it has been observed that the composition according to the invention has good working qualities, notably a good start of foaming and good foam quality and amount. It has very particularly been noted that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to generate a large amount of foam. The foam generated by the composition according to the invention is rich, creamy, firm and generous, which is particularly appreciated by users.
[0021] A subject of the invention is also a process for treating, in particular cosmetically treating, keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin fibres.
[0022] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become more apparent on reading the description and the example that follows.
[0023] In the present description, and unless otherwise stated:
[0024] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be substituted for the latter expression;
[0025] - the expression “between ... and ...” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from ... to ...” and can be substituted for the latter expression, and implies that the limits are included;
[0026] - for the purposes of the present invention, the expression “greater than” and the expression “less than” mean an open-ended range that is respectively strictly greater or strictly less, and hence that the limits are not included.
[0027] - According to the present patent application, “keratin materials” more particularly denotes 1) the skin of the body and / or face (including the scalp) and / or the nails, and 2) keratin fibres; and even more particularly the scalp and the hair.
[0028] - According to the present patent application, “keratin fibres” particularly means human keratin fibres such as head hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferentially head hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, even more preferentially head hair.
[0029] - For the purposes of the present invention, “hair” is understood as meaning head hair. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows or eyelashes.
[0030] - According to the present patent application, “fatty acid” means an organic acid comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. - According to the present patent application, “fatty alcohol” means an alcohol comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0031] - For the purposes of the present invention, “(poly)oxyalkylenated compound” means a compound comprising one or more ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide groups; preferably, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups may range from 1 to 150; more preferentially, the (poly)oxyalkylenated compound does not comprise any glycerol groups;
[0032] - For the purposes of the present invention, “(poly)glycerolated compound” means a compound comprising one or more glycerol groups; preferably, the number of glycerol groups may range from 0 to 30;
[0033] - “An anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. In the present description, a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
[0034] - The expression “a sulfate anionic surfactant” means an anionic surfactant which comprises at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3 ), and which can optionally also comprise one or more other functions derived from acids, such as carboxylic acid or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO'), sulfonate functions (-SO3H or -SO3 ) and / or phosphate functions.
[0035] By way of example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, and also the salts of these compounds, are sulfate anionic surfactants. The alkyl groups of these compounds, mentioned by way of example, comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and the aryl group may be a phenyl or benzyl group. These compounds, mentioned by way of example, may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxy ethylenated, and may comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
[0036] - For the purposes of the invention, “non-sulfate anionic surfactant” means a surfactant which does not come under the definition of “sulfate anionic surfactant” as defined above.
[0037] - It is also understood according to the invention that: * the carboxylic anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO'), but do not comprise any sulfonic or sulfonate functions (-SO3H or -SO3'), or any sulfate functions (-OSO3H or -OSO3 );
[0038] * the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3 ), and may optionally also comprise one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO') and / or phosphate functions, but do not comprise any sulfate functions (-OSO3H or -OSO3 );
[0039] * the phosphate anionic surfactants comprise at least one phosphoric or phosphate function (-OPO3H2 or -OPO32), but do not comprise any carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO'), or any sulfonic or sulfonate functions (-SO3H or -SOs' ), or any sulfate functions (OSO3H or -OSO3 ).
[0040] In other words:
[0041] - an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3 ), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO'), is considered, for the purposes of the invention and unless otherwise stated, to be a sulfate anionic surfactant;
[0042] - an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3 ), and at least one sulfonic or sulfonate function (SO3H or -SO3 ), is considered, for the purposes of the invention and unless otherwise stated, to be a sulfate anionic surfactant;
[0043] - an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfonic or sulfonate function (SO3H or -SO3 ), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO'), is considered, for the purposes of the invention and unless otherwise stated, to be a nonsulfate sulfonate anionic surfactant;
[0044] - an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3 ), and at least one sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3 ), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO'), is considered, for the purposes of the invention and unless otherwise stated, to be a sulfate anionic surfactant.
[0045] Acyl isethionates:
[0046] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one first anionic surfactant chosen from acyl isethionates. According to the invention, the acyl isethionates encompass acyl methyl isethionates.
[0047] Preferably, the acyl isethionate(s) are chosen from those of formula (II) below: in which:
[0048] - R represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0049] - R’ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; and
[0050] - M+is a cosmetically acceptable cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0051] Preferably, the radical R in formula (II) represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 5 to 24, more preferentially from 6 to 20, more preferentially still from 8 to 18, better still from 10 to 16, carbon atoms.
[0052] Preferentially, the first anionic surfactant(s) (i) are chosen from a) cocoyl methyl isethionate salts, in particular sodium cocoyl methyl isethionate, b) lauroyl methyl isethionate salts, in particular sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, c) cocoyl isethionate salts, in particular sodium cocoyl isethionate, d) lauroyl isethionate salts, in particular sodium lauroyl isethionate, e) and mixtures thereof.
[0053] More preferentially, the first anionic surfactant (i) according to the invention is a cocoyl isethionate salt; and more particularly sodium cocoyl isethionate.
[0054] Preferably, the acyl isethionates of formula (II) are in the form of an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salt; more preferentially in the form of an alkali metal salt, and more particularly in the form of a sodium salt. The acyl isethionates according to the invention may optionally be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0055] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) (i) chosen from acyl isethionates present in the composition is within the range of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0056] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) (i) of formula (II) present in the composition is within the range of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0057] Amino acid derivatives:
[0058] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one second anionic surfactant chosen from amino acid derivatives.
[0059] A “surfactant derived from an amino acid” means a surfactant formed by the combination of at least one hydrophobic group, preferably a hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, with at least one amino acid.
[0060] The anionic surfactants derived from amino acids are derived from amino acids such as (methyl)taurine, glutamic acid, (methyl)alanine, (methyl)glycine or aspartic acid.
[0061] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant(s) derived from amino acids are chosen from those of formula (III) below: in which:
[0062] - Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms; - R.2 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;
[0063] - R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a -CJ COO’ M+group or
[0064] -COO' M+group, with M+as described below;
[0065] - n represents an integer equal to 0, 1 or 2;
[0066] - X' represents a -COO' or -SOs' group; and
[0067] - M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NHZ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0068] Preferably, the radical Ri in formula (III) above represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 5 to 24, more preferentially from 6 to 20, more preferentially still from 8 to 18, carbon atoms.
[0069] More preferentially, the anionic surfactants derived from amino acids are chosen from N-acyl taurates, N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl alaninates, N-acyl P- alaninates, N-acyl glycinates, N-acyl sarcosinates, N-acyl aspartates, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl sarcosinates, and mixtures thereof; better still from N-acyl sarcosinates.
[0070] The N-acyl taurates are preferably chosen from those of formula (Illa) below: in which:
[0071] - Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0072] - R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; and
[0073] - M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NHZ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium. Preferably, the radical Ri in formula (Illa) above represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 5 to 24, more preferentially from 6 to 20, more preferentially still from 8 to 18, carbon atoms.
[0074] Mention may in particular be made, as examples of anionic surfactants of N- acyl taurate type, of: potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium caproyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium methyl palmitoyl taurate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0075] More preferentially, the N-acyl taurates are chosen from potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium caproyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0076] The N-acyl glutamates are preferably chosen from those of formula (Illb) below: in which:
[0077] - Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms; and
[0078] - M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0079] Preferably, the radical Ri in formula (Illb) above represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 5 to 24, more preferentially from 6 to 20, more preferentially still from 8 to 18, carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made, as examples of anionic surfactants of N- acyl glutamate type, of: dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof.
[0080] More preferentially, the N-acyl glutamates are chosen from disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof.
[0081] The N-acyl alaninates or the N-acyl P-alaninates are preferably chosen from those of formula (IIIc) or (Hid) below: in which: - Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0082] - R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; and
[0083] - M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0084] Preferably, the radical Ri in formulae (IIIc) and (Hid) above represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 5 to 24, more preferentially from 6 to 20, more preferentially still from 8 to 18, carbon atoms.
[0085] More preferentially, the N-acyl alaninates and the N-acyl P-alaninates are chosen from potassium cocoyl methyl P-alaninate, potassium lauroyl P-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl P-alaninate, potassium myristoyl P-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl P-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methyl P- alaninate, sodium myristoyl methyl P-alaninate, and mixtures thereof.
[0086] The N-acyl glycinates are preferably chosen from those of formula (Ille) below: in which:
[0087] - Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms; and
[0088] - M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0089] Preferably, the radical Ri in formula (Ille) above represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 5 to 24, more preferentially from 6 to 20, more preferentially still from 8 to 18, carbon atoms.
[0090] More preferentially, the N-acyl glycinates are chosen from sodium palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, and mixtures thereof.
[0091] The N-acyl sarcosinates are preferably chosen from those of formula (Illf) below:
[0092] O
[0093] R^^N^^COO’ M+
[0094] CH3
[0095] (Illf) in which:
[0096] - Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms; and
[0097] - M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0098] Preferably, the radical Ri in formula (Illf) above represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 5 to 24, more preferentially from 6 to 20, more preferentially still from 8 to 18, carbon atoms.
[0099] Mention may in particular be made, as examples of anionic surfactants of N- acyl sarcosinate type, of: potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, and mixtures thereof.
[0100] More preferentially, the N-acyl sarcosinate anionic surfactants are chosen from potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and mixtures thereof; and better still sodium cocoyl sarcosinate.
[0101] The N-acyl aspartates are preferably chosen from those of formula (Illg) below: in which:
[0102] - Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms; and
[0103] - M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0104] Preferably, the radical Ri in formula (Illg) above represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 5 to 24, more preferentially from 6 to 20, more preferentially still from 8 to 18, carbon atoms.
[0105] Mention may in particular be made, as examples of anionic surfactants of N- acyl aspartate type, of: sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.
[0106] More preferentially, the N-acyl aspartates are chosen from sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.
[0107] Formulae (III) and (Illa) to (Illg) above encompass the acid form of the surfactants (i.e. M+represents a hydrogen atom).
[0108] Even more preferentially, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one second anionic surfactant chosen from N-acyl glutamates, N- acyl sarcosinates, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially still from the N-acyl glutamates of formula (Illb), the N-acyl sarcosinates of formula (Illf) as described above, and mixtures thereof; better still from the N-acyl sarcosinates of formula (Illf) as described above; even better still from lauroyl sarcosinates, cocoyl sarcosinates, and mixtures thereof; even better still from potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and mixtures thereof; or even from sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and mixtures thereof; and most preferentially, the composition according to the present invention also comprises sodium cocoyl sarcosinate as second anionic surfactant.
[0109] Preferably, when they are present in the composition, the total content of second anionic surfactant(s) chosen from amino acid derivatives present in the composition is within the range of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0110] Preferably, when they are present in the composition, the total content of second anionic surfactant(s) of formula (III) above present in the composition is within the range of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0111] Preferably, when they are present in the composition, the total content of second anionic surfactant(s) chosen from those of formula (Illb) and (II If) above present in the composition is within the range of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0112] Preferably, when they are present in the composition, the total content of second anionic surfactant(s) of formula (Ulf) above present in the composition is within the range of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0113] Glucamide compounds:
[0114] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one glucamide compound, in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0115] The glucamide compounds which can be used according to the invention are notably described in patent applications WO 92 06154, US 5194639 and DE 44 43 645.
[0116] Preferably, the glucamide compounds are chosen from acyl glucamides, more preferentially those having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms (counting the carbon atom of the -C(O)- carbonyl group), preferentially from 6 to 22, better still from 6 to 20 and even better still from 6 to 14.
[0117] More preferentially, the glucamide compounds are chosen from those of general formula (A) below: in which:
[0118] - the Gl-N group represents a glucamine, in which N is the nitrogen atom of the glucamine,
[0119] - Ri represents a C1-C2 alkyl radical, preferably a methyl,
[0120] - R2 represents a linear or branched C3-C29, preferably C5-C21, more preferentially C7- C19, alkyl or alkenyl radical which is optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl -OH groups.
[0121] More preferentially still:
[0122] - the Gl-N group represents a glucamine, in which N is the nitrogen atom of the glucamine,
[0123] - Ri represents a methyl, and
[0124] - R2 represents a linear C3-C29, preferably C5-C21, more preferentially C7-C19, better still C7-C17, even better still C9-C15 , even better still C10-C13, better still again C11-C13, alkyl radical which is optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl -OH groups.
[0125] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least two glucamide compounds. For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “glucamide” and “glucamine” encompass all of the respective isomers thereof.
[0126] Moreover, the glucamide compounds according to the invention are also characterized as being nonionic surfactants.
[0127] Among the glucamide compounds that may be used according to the invention, mention may notably be made, alone or as a mixture, of:
[0128] - myristoyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, nonanoyl methyl glucamide, oleyl methyl glucamide and sunfloweroyl methyl glucamide,
[0129] - oleoyl methyl glucamide oleate, stearoyl methyl glucamide stearate, tocopheryl methyl glucamide succinate.
[0130] Preference is given very particularly to the glucamide compounds chosen, alone or as a mixture, from myristoyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, nonanoyl methyl glucamide, oleyl methyl glucamide and sunfloweroyl methylglucamide.
[0131] Among the mixtures of glucamide compounds, mention may be made of lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide and capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide which are particularly preferred.
[0132] More preferentially still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least capryloyl methyl glucamide, caproyl methyl glucamide, myristoyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, the lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide mixture and / or the capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide mixture.
[0133] Preferably, the total content of glucamide compound(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.8% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0134] Preferably, the total content of acyl glucamide compound(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.8% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0135] Preferably, the total content of acyl glucamide compound(s), the hydrocarbon chain of which comprises between 4 and 30 carbon atoms, present in the composition, ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.8% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0136] Preferably, the total content of glucamide compound(s) of formula (A) present in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.8% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0137] Preferably, the total content of lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide mixture in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.8% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0138] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants:
[0139] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.
[0140] In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention may notably be derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0141] Mention may in particular be made of (Cs-C2o)alkyl betaines, (Cs-C2o)alkyl sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkyl betaines and (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci- Ce)alkyl sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.
[0142] Among the derivatives of optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective structures (III) and (IV) below: Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X’ (III) in which formula (III):
[0143] - Rarepresents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut kernel oil; preferably, Rarepresents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
[0144] - Rb represents a P-hydroxyethyl group;
[0145] - Re represents a carboxymethyl group;
[0146] - M+represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and - X' represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+and X' are absent;
[0147] Ra’-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (IV) in which formula (IV):
[0148] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';
[0149] - B’ represents the group -(CH2)ZY’, with z = 1 or 2;
[0150] - X’ represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2- COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;
[0151] - Y’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’;
[0152] - Z’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
[0153] - Ra’ represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, preferably Ra’ is an alkyl group, notably a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
[0154] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodi acetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0155] By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
[0156] Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (V): Ra”-NHCH(Y’ ’)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n -N(Rd)(Re) (V) in which formula (V):
[0157] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ” or -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z”;
[0158] - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a Ci to C4 alkyl or hydroxy alkyl radical;
[0159] - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
[0160] - Ra” represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra”-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil; and
[0161] - n and n’ denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
[0162] Among the compounds of formula (V), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
[0163] These compounds may be used alone or as mixtures.
[0164] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is advantageously made of (Cs-C2o)alkyl betaines, such as coco betaine, (Cs- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, (Cs-C2o)alkyl amphoacetates, (Cs-C2o)alkyl amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof.
[0165] More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (Cs-C2o)alkyl betaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.
[0166] Better still, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (Cs- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines and most particularly cocamidopropyl betaine.
[0167] Preferably, the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) in the composition is within the range of from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0168] Preferably, the total content of (C8-C2o)alkyl betaine(s) and (Cs- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaine(s) in the composition is within the range of from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0169] Preferably, the total content of (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaine(s) in the composition is within the range of from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0170] Cationic polysaccharides:
[0171] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide. According to the invention, the cationic polysaccharide(s) that can be used in the composition are different from the ingredients described above.
[0172] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cationic polysaccharide” denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer of polysaccharide type, containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0173] The cationic polysaccharides are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any Si-0 units).
[0174] Among the cationic polysaccharides according to the invention, mention may be made of cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0175] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0176] The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxy ethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group, for instance Polyquaternium- 10.
[0177] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are notably described in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt, for instance Polyquatemium-4. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
[0178] Among the cationic cellulose derivatives, use may also be made of cationic associative celluloses, which may be chosen from quatemized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
[0179] Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
[0180] Preferentially, mention may be made of the hydroxy ethylcelluloses of formula in which:
[0181] - R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q’ in which Ra, Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q’ represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide;
[0182] - R’ represents an ammonium group R’aR’bR’cN+-, Q’’ in which R’a, R’b and R’c, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q’’ represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b or R’c represents a linear or branched Cs to C30 alkyl;
[0183] - n, x and y, which may be identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10 000.
[0184] Preferably, in formula (lb), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b or R’c represents a linear or branched Cs to C30, better still C10 to C24 or even C10 to C14 alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, notably methyl. Preferably, in formula (lb), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b or R’c represents a linear or branched Cs to C30, better still C10 to C24 or even C10 to C14 alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched Ci to C4 alkyl, notably methyl.
[0185] Even better still, R may be a group chosen from -N+(CHs)3, Q " and -N+(Ci2H2s)(CH3)2, Q”, preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q’-.
[0186] Even better still, R' may be a group -N+(Ci2H2s)(CH3)2, Q1'.
[0187] The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
[0188] Mention may notably be made of the polymers having the following INCI names:
[0189] - Polyquatemium-24, such as the product Quatrisoft LM 200®, sold by the company Amerchol / Dow Chemical;
[0190] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product Crodacel QM®,
[0191] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product Crodacel QL® and
[0192] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (Cis alkyl), such as the product Crodacel QS®, sold by the company CRODA.
[0193] Mention may also be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (lb) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferentially R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH3)3N+-, CT and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2(Ci2H2s)N+-, CT. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquatemium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of the Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from the company Amerchol / Dow Chemical.
[0194] More particularly, the polymers of formula (lb) are, for example, those for which the viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive, preferentially between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs. Use may also be made of Softcat Polymer SX-1300X with a viscosity of between 1000 and 2000 cPs.
[0195] Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US3589578 and US4031307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic tri alkyl ammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride). Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17, Jaguar Cl 62 or Jaguar Excel by the company Rhodia. Such compounds have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0196] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from associative or non- associative cationic polysaccharides; more preferentially from non-associative cationic polysaccharides.
[0197] More preferentially, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof.
[0198] Even more preferentially, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cationic galactomannan gums.
[0199] Most particularly preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cationic guar gums.
[0200] Preferably, the total content of cationic polysaccharide(s) (v) in the composition according to the invention is within the range of from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.08% to 3% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0201] Preferably, the total content of cationic galactomannan gum(s) in the composition according to the invention is within the range of from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.08% to 3% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alpha-olefin sulfonates:
[0202] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one third anionic surfactant chosen from a-olefin sulfonates.
[0203] For the purposes of the invention, the third anionic surfactants chosen from a- olefin sulfonates are different from said first and second anionic surfactants (i) and (ii) described above.
[0204] Preferably, the third anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from linear a-olefin sulfonates.
[0205] Preferably, the third anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from a-olefin sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and very particularly from 14 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0206] The alpha-olefin sulfonates according to the invention may optionally be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0207] Olefin sulfonates are known compounds and are described notably in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry or else in patent US 8211850. These compounds are generally obtained by sulfonation of long-chain a-olefins.
[0208] The linear a-olefin sulfonates according to the invention generally comprise, in a known manner, a mixture of linear alkene sulfonates, notably of formula (A), optionally as a mixture with linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates, notably of formula (B).
[0209] Preferably, the linear alkene sulfonates are of formula (A): in which:
[0210] - R represents a saturated linear alkyl group comprising from 5 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0211] - n is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, better still equal to 1 or 2 and even better still equal to 2; and
[0212] - M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NFLC or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine. Preferably, the radical R in formula (A) represents a saturated linear alkyl group comprising from 7 to 21, more preferentially from 9 to 19, more preferentially still from 11 to 15, carbon atoms.
[0213] Preferably, the linear alkene sulfonates of formula (A) are in the form of an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salt; more preferentially in the form of an alkali metal salt, and more particularly in the form of a sodium salt.
[0214] More preferentially, the linear alkene sulfonates according to the invention are of formula (A’):
[0215] O
[0216] R— CHj — CH=CH — CHg- S-0 M+
[0217] O (A’) in which:
[0218] - R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;
[0219] - M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0220] More preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one third anionic surfactant chosen from the linear alkene sulfonates of formula (A) above.
[0221] Even more preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one third anionic surfactant chosen from the linear alkene sulfonates of formula (A’) above.
[0222] Preferably, the linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates are of formula (B): R’-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-(CH2)n -SO3- M’+(B) in which:
[0223] - R’ is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, even better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms;
[0224] - n’ is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, better still equal to 1 or 2 and even better still equal to 2; and
[0225] - M’+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0226] More preferentially, the linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates are of formula (B’): in which:
[0227] - R’ is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;
[0228] - M’+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0229] Preferably, R and R’ are identical.
[0230] Preferably, M and M’ are identical.
[0231] Very preferentially, the third anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from linear a- olefin sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, better still again from 14 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular in the form of an alkali metal salt, and more particularly in the form of a sodium salt.
[0232] Commercial products that may notably be mentioned include those offered under the name Bio-Terge AS-40A or Bio-Terge AS-40HA by the company Stepan, or Calsoft AOS-40 by the company Pilot Chemical, or alternatively Nansa LSS38 / AV by the company Huntsman.
[0233] Preferably, when present, the total content of third anionic surfactant(s) chosen from the a-olefin sulfonates present in the composition is within the range of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 15% by weight, even better still from 5% to 12% by weight, or even from 7% to 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0234] Preferably, when present, the total content of third anionic surfactant(s) chosen from the linear a-olefin sulfonates present in the composition is within the range of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 15% by weight, even better still from 5% to 12% by weight, or even from 7% to 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0235] Preferably, when present, the total content of linear alkene sulfonate(s) of formula (A) present in the composition is within the range of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 15% by weight, even better still from 5% to 12% by weight, or even from 7% to 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0236] Preferably, when present, the total content of linear alkene sulfonate(s) of formula (A’) present in the composition is within the range of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 15% by weight, even better still from 5% to 12% by weight, or even from 7% to 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0237] Preferably, when present, the weight ratio of the total content of third anionic surfactant(s) chosen from a-olefin sulfonates to the total content of anionic surfactant(s) (i) chosen from acyl isethionates is within the range of from 0.1 to 20, more preferentially from 1 to 10, even more preferentially from 1.5 to 8, better still from 2 to 5.
[0238] Preferably, when present, the weight ratio of the total content of third anionic surfactant(s) chosen from linear a-olefin sulfonates to the total content of anionic surfactant(s) (i) chosen from acyl isethionates of formula (II) is within the range of from 0.1 to 20, more preferentially from 1 to 10, even more preferentially from 1.5 to 8, better still from 2 to 5.
[0239] Preferably, when present, the weight ratio of the total content of third anionic surfactant(s) chosen from linear alkene sulfonates of formula (A) to the total content of anionic surfactant(s) (i) chosen from acyl isethionates of formula (II) is within the range of from 0.1 to 20, more preferentially from 1 to 10, even more preferentially from 1.5 to 8, better still from 2 to 5.
[0240] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of sulfate anionic surfactant.
[0241] The expression “free of sulfate anionic surfactant” means that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any sulfate anionic surfactants (0% by weight), or that the sulfate anionic surfactant(s) present in the composition according to the invention are included in a total content of less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferentially less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. More preferentially still, the composition according to the invention is free of sulfate anionic surfactants (0% by weight).
[0242] Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactants present in the composition is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 10% by weight and better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0243] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactants present in the composition ranges from 5% to 45% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 30% by weight, even more preferentially from 12% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0244] Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 10% by weight and better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0245] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from 5% to 45% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 30% by weight, even more preferentially from 12% to 25% by weight and better still from 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0246] The total content of anionic surfactants mentioned in the above four paragraphs denotes the total content of all the anionic surfactants that may be present in the composition, in particular the total content of first and second anionic surfactants (i) and (ii) and optionally of third anionic surfactants, when they are present in the composition.
[0247] Aminosilicones:
[0248] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise at least one aminosilicone.
[0249] The term “silicone” means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic, and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained, for example, by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and constituted essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O- Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, aminosilicones and dimethiconols.
[0250] The term “aminosilicone” denotes any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
[0251] The weight-average molecular masses of these aminosilicones can be measured by gel-permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C), as polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are p styragel columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 pl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is by refractometry and UV spectrometry.
[0252] Preferably, the aminosilicone(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from: in which x’ and y’ are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately; b) the aminosilicones corresponding to formula (B): R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2-b)m-O-SiG3-a-R'a (B) in which:
[0253] - G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH or Ci-C8alkyl group, for example methyl, or a Ci-Cs alkoxy group, for example methoxy,
[0254] - a, which may be identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0,
[0255] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,
[0256] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;
[0257] - R1, which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula - CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quatemized amine group chosen from the following groups:
[0258] -N(R")2; -N+(R")3A’; -NR"-Q-N(R")2and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3A; in which R", which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula CrH2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A" represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0259] More preferentially, the aminosilicones are chosen from the aminosilicones of formula (B). More preferentially still, the aminosilicones of formula (B) are chosen from the aminosilicones corresponding to the formulae (C), (D), (E), (F) and / or (G) below.
[0260] According to a first embodiment, the aminosilicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones known as “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” corresponding to formula (C): in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10.
[0261] According to a second embodiment, the aminosilicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (D) below: in which:
[0262] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;
[0263] - Ri, R2, R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical.
[0264] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0265] The hydroxy / alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1 and preferably from 0.25: 1 to 0.35: 1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3: 1. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.
[0266] According to a third embodiment, the aminosilicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (E) below: in which:
[0267] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;
[0268] - Ri, R2, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical.
[0269] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0270] The hydroxy / alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1 :0.8 to 1 : 1.1 and preferably from 1 :0.9 to 1 :1 and more particularly is equal to 1 :0.95.
[0271] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000, even more particularly from 5000 to 100 000 and more particularly from 10 000 to 50 000.
[0272] The commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other aminosilicones, the structure of which is different from formula (D) or (E).
[0273] A product containing aminosilicones of structure (D) is offered by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652. A product containing aminosilicones of structure (E) is offered by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.
[0274] When these aminosilicones are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, notably as aminosilicones of formula (E), use is made of microemulsions with a mean particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, use may be made according to the invention of the microemulsions of aminosilicone of formula (E) which are offered under the name Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by Wacker.
[0275] According to a fourth embodiment, the aminosilicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (F) below: in which:
[0276] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999, and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and notably from 1 to 10;
[0277] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
[0278] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.
[0279] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Coming. According to a fifth embodiment, the aminosilicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of following formula (G): in which:
[0280] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999, and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and notably from 1 to 10;
[0281] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
[0282] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200 000.
[0283] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning. c) the aminosilicones corresponding to formula (H): in which:
[0284] - Rs represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
[0285] - Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical connected to the Si by an SiC bond;
[0286] - Q’ is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;
[0287] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;
[0288] - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.
[0289] Such aminosilicones are notably described in patent US 4 185 087. d) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I): in which:
[0290] - R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
[0291] - Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical connected to the Si by an SiC bond;
[0292] - Rs, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical, an -Re-NHCOR? radical;
[0293] - X' is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;
[0294] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.
[0295] These silicones are described, for example, in patent EP-A-0530974. e) the aminosilicones of formula (J): in which:
[0296] - Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - Rs denotes a Ci-C4alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
[0297] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
[0298] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
[0299] - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g. f) multiblock polyoxyalkylene aminosilicones, of the type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block including at least one amine group.
[0300] Said silicones f) are preferably constituted of repeating units having the following general formulae:
[0301] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2- R -N(R")- R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -R'-N(H)-R-] or
[0302] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2- R -N(R")- R' - O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -] in which:
[0303] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
[0304] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;
[0305] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;
[0306] - R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;
[0307] - R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-Ci2hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R denotes a -CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical;
[0308] - R1, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-Ci2hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R1denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R1denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.
[0309] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%. The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
[0310] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 and more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000.
[0311] Mention may notably be made of the silicones sold under the name Sil soft A- 843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive. g) and mixtures thereof.
[0312] Preferably, the aminosilicones are chosen from the above aminosilicones of formula (B); preferentially from the above aminosilicones of formula (C), (E), (F) or (G), and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from the above aminosilicones of formula (C) or (F), and mixtures thereof.
[0313] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of aminosilicone(s) present in the composition is within the range of from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 2% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.08% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0314] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of aminosilicone(s) chosen from the aminosilicones of formula (C), (E), (F) and / or (G), more preferentially from the aminosilicones of formula (C) and / or (F), present in the composition is within the range of from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 2% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.08% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0315] Fatty amines:
[0316] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention also comprises at least one cationic surfactant, in particular chosen from fatty amines.
[0317] Preferably, the fatty amine(s) are chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines (optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof and comprising at least one C6-C30 and preferably C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0318] Said cationic surfactants chosen from fatty amines are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-0 groups.
[0319] Preferably, the cationic surfactants chosen from fatty amines which can be used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.
[0320] Preferably, the cationic surfactants chosen from fatty amines that may be used according to the invention comprise at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, and more preferentially at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0321] As cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.
[0322] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
[0323] The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not quaternized.
[0324] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.
[0325] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may most particularly be made of the amidoamines of formula RC0NHR”N(R’)2 in which:
[0326] - R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical;
[0327] - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and
[0328] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.
[0329] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not rule out the fact that they may “quatemize” in situ).
[0330] More preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) (v) of fatty amine type are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
[0331] Even more preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) (v) of fatty amine type are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0332] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amines is within the range of from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0333] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines is within the range of from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2 is within the range of from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0334] Other cationic polymers
[0335] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise at least one additional cationic polymer P, different from the cationic polysaccharides (v) described above.
[0336] According to the invention, the cationic polymer(s) P that can be used in the composition are different from the ingredients described above, and notably from the cationic polysaccharides (v) described above.
[0337] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cationic polymer” means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) P are hydrophilic or amphiphilic.
[0338] The cationic polymers P are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any Si- O units).
[0339] The preferred cationic polymers P are chosen from those that contain units including primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
[0340] Preferably, the cationic polymers P do not comprise any anionic groups or any groups that can be ionized to anionic groups.
[0341] The cationic polymers P that can be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5* 106approximately and preferably between 103and 3* 106approximately.
[0342] Preferably, the cationic polymers P have a charge density of less than 4 meq / g, better still less than 3.5 meq / g, even more preferentially from 1 to 3.4 meq / g.
[0343] The charge density may be determined according to the Kjeldahl method. It is measured in general at a pH of the order of 3 to 9.
[0344] Among the cationic polymers P, mention may be made more particularly of: (1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formulae: in which formulae:
[0345] - Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
[0346] - R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
[0347] - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0348] - R4, Rs and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
[0349] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic acids or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
[0350] Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
[0351] - copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name Hercofloc by Hercules,
[0352] - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride such as those sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by Ciba Geigy,
[0353] - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate such as that sold under the name Reten by Hercules,
[0354] - quaternized or non-quatemized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755 or the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2077143 and 2393573,
[0355] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by ISP,
[0356] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP;
[0357] - vinylpyrrolidone / quatemized dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,
[0358] - preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyl tri(Ci- C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil may more particularly be used. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba. (3) Polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.
[0359] (4) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis- azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.
[0360] (5) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
[0361] (6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer. (7) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers including, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (VII) or (VIII): in which formulae (VII) and (VIII):
[0362] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + 1 being equal to 1;
[0363] - R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
[0364] - Rio and Rn, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, or a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or Rw and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; Rw and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and
[0365] - Y’ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
[0366] Mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymer, such as polyquaternium-6, sold, for example, under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and homologues thereof of low weight-average molar masses) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, such as polyquatemium-7, notably sold under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat 7SPR.
[0367] (8) Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula in which formula (IX):
[0368] - R13, R14, R15 and Rw, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or else R13, R14, R15 and Ri6, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than the nitrogen, or else R13, R14, R15 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Ci to Ce alkyl radical which is substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group in which R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
[0369] - Ai and Bi represent polymethylene divalent groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino or alkylamino groups, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester, and
[0370] - X' denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Ai, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also denote a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)n- group in which D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2- CH2-O)X-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or alternatively the divalent radical- CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-; or d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-C0-NH-.
[0371] Preferably, X' is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
[0372] Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which are constituted of repeating units corresponding to formula (X): in which formula (X), Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X' is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
[0373] A compound of formula (X) that is particularly preferred is the one for which Ri, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.
[0374] (9) Polyquatemary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (XI): in which formula (XI):
[0375] - Ris, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, P-hydroxyethyl, P-hydroxypropyl or CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)POH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
[0376] - r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
[0377] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
[0378] - X~ denotes an anion such as a halide, and
[0379] - A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
[0380] Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® ADI, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
[0381] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
[0382] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
[0383] (12) Polymers including in their structure:
[0384] (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (XII) below:
[0385] (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (XIII) below:
[0386] In other words, these polymers may notably be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
[0387] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (XII) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (XIII), preferentially from 10 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (XII) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (XIII).
[0388] These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
[0389] The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g / mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g / mol.
[0390] The cationic charge density of these polymers may range from 2 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq / g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq / g.
[0391] The polymers including units of formula (XII) and optionally units of formula (XIII) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF; for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products offered under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
[0392] Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) P are chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides of family (1) as described above, cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium of family (7) as described above, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the cationic polymer(s) P are chosen from cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium of family (7) as described above; better still from homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (VII) or (VIII) and mixtures thereof; and even better still polyquatemium-7. Advantageously, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of cationic polymer(s) P present in the composition according to the invention is preferably within the range of from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.08% to 3% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0393] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of cationic polymer(s) P chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides of family (1) as described above, cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium of family (7) as described above, and mixtures thereof, is preferably within the range of from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.08% to 3% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0394] Nacreous agents:
[0395] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise at least one nacreous agent.
[0396] The term “nacreous agent” means any compound that is capable of giving the composition according to the invention an irisated, iridescent, moire or metallized appearance or effect.
[0397] When the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nacreous agent, it is understood that this is different from the compounds (i) to (v), from the a-olefin sulfonates, from the cationic surfactants of fatty amine type and from the cationic polymers described above.
[0398] Preferably, the nacreous agent(s) may be chosen from: a) esters of polyols containing at least two carbon atoms and of long-chain fatty acids, which are preferentially C10-C30 and even more preferentially C16-C22; such as monoesters or diesters of polyols and of fatty acids; preferably, the polyols are ethylene glycol and polyalkylene glycols containing from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units; b) esters of long-chain (C10-C30) monoalcohols, such as cetyl palmitate; c) ethers of long-chain fatty alcohols that are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to about 30°C and at atmospheric pressure, for instance the dialkyl ethers of formula (I’):
[0399] R-O-R’ (I’) in which R and R’, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical including from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, R and R’ being chosen such that the compound of formula (I’) is solid at a temperature below or equal to 30°C and at atmospheric pressure. More particularly, R and R’ denote a stearyl radical. These compounds may notably be prepared according to the process described in patent application DE 41 27 230. A distearyl ether that can be used in the context of the present invention is sold under the name Cutina STE by the company HENKEL; d) long-chain (C10-C30) esters of long-chain (C10-C30) alkanolamides, such as stearamide diethanolamide distearate or stearamide monoethanolamide stearate; e) single-chain fatty alcohols containing at least 20 carbon atoms, such as behenyl alcohol; and f) compounds containing from 27 to 48 carbon atoms and including one or two ether and / or thioether or sulfoxide groups, and more particularly corresponding to formula (IF):
[0400] Ra-X[C2H3(OH)]-CH2-Y-Rb(IF) in which Ra and Rb denote, independently of each other, linear C12 to C24 groups;
[0401] X denotes an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, a sulfoxide or methylene group;
[0402] Y denotes an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, a sulfoxide or methylene group;
[0403] Ra and Rb have a value ranging from 24 to 44 and preferably from 28 to 40 inclusive; when X or Y denotes a sulfoxide group, X or Y does not denote a sulfur atom.
[0404] The compounds of formula (IF) that are preferably used in accordance with the invention are those for which X denotes an oxygen atom, Y denotes a methylene group and Ra and Rb denote radicals containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms; these compounds being able to be prepared according to patent EP457688; and g) coated or uncoated titanium oxides, micas and titanium micas; h) cyclodextrins and in particular P-cyclodextrin.
[0405] Preferably, the nacreous agent(s) are chosen from esters of polyols containing at least two carbon atoms and of long-chain fatty acids, which are preferentially C10- C30 and even more preferentially C16-C22; such as monoesters or diesters of polyols and of fatty acids, and mixtures thereof; better still, the polyols are ethylene glycol and polyalkylene glycols containing from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0406] Very particularly preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises glycol distearate as nacreous agent.
[0407] Preferably, when the nacreous agent(s) are present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of nacreous agent(s) is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially between 1% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0408] Preferably, when it is present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of glycol di stearate is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0409] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise at least one inorganic salt.
[0410] For the purposes of the present application, the inorganic salt(s) are different from the anionic surfactants (i) and from the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (ii), from the particles, and more particularly from all the ingredients described above.
[0411] Preferably, the inorganic salt(s) are chosen from inorganic salts of alkali metals or of alkaline-earth metals.
[0412] More preferentially, the inorganic salt(s) are chosen from alkali metal salts of a halide, alkaline-earth metal salts of a halide, and mixtures thereof; and better still from alkali metal salts of a halide.
[0413] More preferentially, the inorganic salt(s) are chosen from alkali metal salts of the chloride ion, alkaline-earth metal salts of the chloride ion, and mixtures thereof; and better still from alkali metal salts of the chloride ion, such as sodium chloride.
[0414] Preferably, the total content of inorganic salt(s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the total content of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salt(s) of a halide present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0415] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises water, that is to say that the medium of the composition is advantageously aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
[0416] More preferentially, the total content of water in the composition according to the invention is between 50% and 95% by weight, more preferentially between 55% and 90% by weight, even more preferentially between 60% and 85% by weight, better still between 65% and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0417] The composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise at least one organic solvent.
[0418] For the purposes of the invention, it is understood that the organic solvents are liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0419] By way of examples of organic solvent, use may particularly be made of those which are water-soluble, such as C1-C7 alcohols, and in particular C1-C7 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C3-C7 polyols and C3-C7 polyol ethers, which can be used alone or as a mixture with water. Advantageously, the organic solvent(s) may be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol and glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
[0420] Preferably, when the organic solvent(s) are present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of C2-C7 organic solvent(s) is between 0.01% and 5% by weight, more preferentially between 0.05% and 2% by weight, and even more preferentially between 0.1% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0421] Preferably, the pH of the composition is between 3.0 and 9.0, more preferentially between 4.0 and 8.0, even more preferentially between 4.5 and 6.5, even better still between 5.0 and 6.0.
[0422] The pH of the composition according to the invention may be adjusted to the desired value with the aid of alkalinizing agents (such as monoethanolamine) and / or acidifying agents (such as citric acid). The composition according to the invention may optionally also contain one or more additives used in cosmetics, such as fragrances, thickeners, dyes, preserving agents, silicones other than the aminosilicones described above, nonionic surfactants other than those described above.
[0423] These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0424] A person skilled in the art will take care to select these optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
[0425] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably cosmetic composition, comprises:
[0426] (i) at least one first anionic surfactant chosen from acyl isethionates of formula (II),
[0427] (ii) at least one second anionic surfactant chosen from amino acid derivatives, preferably chosen from N-acyl taurates, N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl alaninates, N-acyl P-alaninates, N-acyl glycinates, N-acyl sarcosinates, N-acyl aspartates, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl sarcosinates, and mixtures thereof; better still from N-acyl sarcosinates, in particular of formula (I Ilf) described above,
[0428] (iii) from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one glucamide compound chosen from acyl glucamides having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms,
[0429] (iv) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, preferably chosen from (Cs- C2o)alkyl betaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines, (C8-C2o)alkyl amphoacetates, (C8-C2o)alkyl amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from (C8-C2o)alkyl betaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines and mixtures thereof; better still from (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines,
[0430] (v) at least one cationic polysaccharide chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; preferably from cationic galactomannan gums; more preferentially chosen from cationic guar gums.
[0431] More preferentially, according to this embodiment, the composition does not comprise any sulfate anionic surfactants. According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably cosmetic composition, comprises:
[0432] (i) at least one first anionic surfactant chosen from acyl isethionates of formula (II),
[0433] (ii) at least one second anionic surfactant chosen from amino acid derivatives, preferably chosen from N-acyl taurates, N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl alaninates, N-acyl P-alaninates, N-acyl glycinates, N-acyl sarcosinates, N-acyl aspartates, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl sarcosinates, and mixtures thereof; better still from N-acyl sarcosinates,
[0434] (iii) from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one glucamide compound chosen from acyl glucamides having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms,
[0435] (iv) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, preferably chosen from (Cs- C2o)alkyl betaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines, (C8-C2o)alkyl amphoacetates, (C8-C2o)alkyl amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from (C8-C2o)alkyl betaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines and mixtures thereof; better still from (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines,
[0436] (v) at least one cationic polysaccharide chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; preferably from cationic galactomannan gums; more preferentially chosen from cationic guar gums,
[0437] (vi) at least one aminosilicone, preferably chosen from aminosilicones of formula (B) as described above; preferentially from the aminosilicones of formula (C), (E), (F), and / or (G) as described above; more preferentially from the aminosilicones of formula (C) and / or (F) as described above, and
[0438] (vii) at least one cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amines; preferably chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain; more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
[0439] More preferentially, according to this embodiment, the composition does not comprise any sulfate anionic surfactants.
[0440] According to yet another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably cosmetic composition, comprises:
[0441] (i) at least one first anionic surfactant chosen from acyl isethionates of formula (II),
[0442] (ii) at least one second anionic surfactant chosen from amino acid derivatives, preferably chosen from N-acyl taurates, N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl alaninates, N-acyl P-alaninates, N-acyl glycinates, N-acyl sarcosinates, N-acyl aspartates, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl sarcosinates, and mixtures thereof; better still from N-acyl sarcosinates,
[0443] (iii) from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one glucamide compound chosen from acyl glucamides having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms,
[0444] (iv) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, preferably chosen from (Cs- C2o)alkyl betaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines, (C8-C2o)alkyl amphoacetates, (C8-C2o)alkyl amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from (C8-C2o)alkyl betaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines and mixtures thereof; better still from (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines,
[0445] (v) at least one cationic polysaccharide chosen from cationic galactomannan gums; more preferentially chosen from cationic guar gums,
[0446] (vi) at least one third anionic surfactant, different from said first and second anionic surfactants, chosen from a-olefin sulfonates, preferably from linear alkene sulfonates of formula (A),
[0447] (vii) at least one aminosilicone, preferably chosen from aminosilicones of formula (B) as described above; preferentially from the aminosilicones of formula (C), (E), (F), and / or (G) as described above; more preferentially from the aminosilicones of formula (C) and / or (F) as described above, and (viii) at least one cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amines; preferably chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain; more preferentially chosen from oleami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, stearami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
[0448] More preferentially, according to this embodiment, the composition does not comprise any sulfate anionic surfactants.
[0449] The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a shampoo.
[0450] A subject of the invention is also a process for treating, in particular cosmetically treating, keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined above to said keratin materials.
[0451] Preferably, the process according to the invention is a process for washing and / or conditioning keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, better still a process for washing, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined above to said human keratin materials.
[0452] Advantageously, a step of rinsing the keratin materials is carried out after a step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin materials; more preferentially less than 30 minutes after the application step, more preferentially still less than 10 minutes after, better still less than 5 minutes after. A step of drying the keratin materials may be envisaged in the process according to the invention, preferably after said rinsing step; for example using a heating means such as a hair dryer, a straightening iron, a steam iron or a heating hood; the heating means possibly heating to a temperature ranging from 35°C to 230°C, preferably from 50°C to 120°C.
[0453] A subject of the invention is also the use of the composition according to the invention as described above, for treating keratin materials such as the hair, preferably for washing and / or conditioning, better still for washing, keratin materials such as the hair.
[0454] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention, but without being limiting in nature.
[0455] Examples:
[0456] Composition A according to the invention and comparative composition B are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).
[0457] [Table 1] The compositions may be used as shampoos.
[0458] Composition A according to the invention rapidly generates an abundant foam of good quality with a pleasant (creamy) texture.
[0459] A sensory evaluation of the hair treated with compositions A and B was carried out.
[0460] Compositions A and B were respectively applied to locks of moderately sensitized (AS20) Caucasian hair weighing 5.4 g, in a ratio of 0.28 gram of composition / gram of hair. The locks of hair were then massaged, and then rinsed with water.
[0461] A sensory evaluation of the conditioning properties of each treated lock when wet was carried out blind by 3 experts. For this purpose, each expert compared, blind, the lock treated with comparative composition B with the lock of hair treated with composition A according to the invention.
[0462] Each expert then graded, blind, the lock of hair treated / washed using comparative composition B, according to the following scores:
[0463] +1 : significantly better than with composition A according to the invention, +0.5: slightly better than with composition A according to the invention, 0: similar to the lock treated with composition A according to the invention, -0.5: slightly worse than with composition A according to the invention, -1 : significantly worse than with composition A according to the invention.
[0464] The lock treated with composition A according to the invention was given the score 0.
[0465] Evaluation of smoothness to the touch:
[0466] Definition: The lock of hair does not have any rough patches.
[0467] Handling: the expert holds the lock in one hand; they place the thumb of the other hand on the front of the lock and the index and middle fingers on the back. They slide these three fingers over the lock from root to tip, 3 times.
[0468] Evaluation o f coating:
[0469] Definition: Sensation of product remaining on the lock of hair (presence of a residual film). Handling: the expert holds the lock in one hand; they place the thumb of the other hand on the front of the lock and the index and middle fingers on the back. They slide these three fingers over the lock from root to tip, 3 times. The results are collated in the table below.
[0470] [Table 2]
[0471] [Table 3] Hair treated with composition A according to the invention was found to be significantly smoother and better coated than hair treated with comparative composition B.
Claims
CLAIMS1. Composition comprising:(i) at least one first anionic surfactant chosen from acyl isethionates,(ii) at least one second anionic surfactant chosen from amino acid derivatives,(iii) from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one glucamide compound,(iv) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, and(v) at least one cationic polysaccharide.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the first anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from acyl isethionates of formula (II) below:in which:- R represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms;- R’ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; and- M+is a cosmetically acceptable cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NHZ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium; preferably, the radical R in formula (II) represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 5 to 24, more preferentially from 6 to 20, more preferentially still from 8 to 18, better still from 10 to 16, carbon atoms.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of anionic surfactant(s) (i) chosen from acyl isethionates is within the range of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second anionic surfactant(s) (ii) are chosen from N-acyl taurates, N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl alaninates, N-acyl P-alaninates, N-acyl glycinates, N-acyl sarcosinates, N-acyl aspartates, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl sarcosinates, and mixtures thereof; better still from N-acyl sarcosinates.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of anionic surfactant(s) (ii) chosen from amino acid derivatives is within the range of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glucamide compound(s) (iii) are chosen from acyl glucamides, preferably from acyl glucamides having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferentially from 6 to 22, better still from 6 to 20 and even better still from 6 to 14 carbon atoms.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of glucamide compound(s) (iii) ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.8% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (Cs-C2o)alkyl betaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines, (C8-C2o)alkyl amphoacetates, (Cs- C2o)alkyl amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from (Cs- C2o)alkyl betaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines and mixtures thereof; better still from (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polysaccharide(s) (v) are chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; preferably from cationic galactomannan gums; more preferentially chosen from cationic guar gums.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic polysaccharide(s) (v) is within the range of from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.08% to 3% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one third anionic surfactant, different from said first and second anionic surfactant(s) (i) and (ii), chosen from alpha-olefin sulfonates; preferably from linear alkene sulfonates of formula (A) below:in which:- R represents a saturated linear alkyl group comprising from 5 to 30 carbon atoms;- n is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, better still equal to 1 or 2 and even better still equal to 2; and- M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine; more preferentially, the radical R of formula (A) represents a saturated linear alkyl group comprising from 7 to 21, even more preferentially from 9 to 19 and better still from 11 to 15 carbon atoms.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one aminosilicone; preferably chosen from the aminosilicones corresponding to the formula (B):R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2-b)m-O-SiG3-a-R'a (B) in which:- G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH or Ci-C8alkyl group, for example methyl, or a Ci-Cs alkoxy group, for example methoxy,- a, which may be identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0,- b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;- R1, which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula - CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quatemized amine group chosen from the following groups: -N(R")2 ; -N+(R")3A‘; -NR"-Q-N(R")2 and-NR"-Q-N+(R")3A-, in which R", which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula CrH2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A" represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide; more preferentially, the aminosilicone(s) are chosen from the aminosilicones corresponding to the formulae (C), (E), (F), or (G) below, and mixtures thereof:* the aminosilicones known as “trimethyl silyl amodimethicone” of formula (C):in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;* the aminosilicones of formula (E):in which:- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;- Ri, R2, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical;* the aminosilicones of formula (F):in which:- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999, and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and notably from 1 to 10;- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably 4 carbon atoms;* the aminosilicones of formula (G):in which:- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999, and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and notably from 1 to 10;- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably 4 carbon atoms; better still, the aminosilicones are chosen from the aminosilicones corresponding to the formulae (C) or (F), and mixtures thereof.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of anionic surfactant(s) ranges from 5% to 45% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 12% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amines; preferably from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain; even more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine,stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, laurami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, myristami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ri cinol eami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine asnd mixtures thereof; better still from ol eami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; even better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free of sulfate anionic surfactant.
16. Process for treating keratin materials, preferably keratin fibres, and more preferentially for washing keratin fibres, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 15 to said keratin materials.
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