Cosmetic sunscreen compositions, use of fatty compound system and use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition
The combination of organic UV filters, polymers, surfactants, and a fatty compound system in sunscreen compositions addresses the challenge of achieving high SPF with reduced UV filter use, enhancing UV absorption and film deposition for improved skin protection and feel.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-10-31
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-07
AI Technical Summary
Existing sunscreen compositions face challenges in achieving high SPF values without the undesirable side effects of greasiness, stickiness, long drying time, shiny residue, and skin whitening, while also minimizing the use of UV filters to reduce environmental impact.
A cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising organic UV filters, polymers, surfactants, and a fatty compound system, specifically hydrogenated castor oil and shea butter, which act as SPF boosters, enhancing UV absorption and film deposition without increasing UV filter amounts.
The composition provides improved SPF performance with better spreadability, reduced shine, and increased UV protection, maintaining a smooth skin feel and stability, while using less UV filters.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITIONS, USE OF FATTY COMPOUND SYSTEM AND USE OF A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0002] The present invention is directed to a cosmetic sunscreen composition with improved SPF, comprising (a) at least one organic UV filter; (b) at least one polymer; (c) at least one surfactant; and (d) a fatty compound system. The invention is also related to the use of a fatty compound system for improving the SPF on cosmetic sunscreen compositions and the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.
[0003] BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0004] The photoprotection of keratinous materials, is considered of great importance in order to protect from sun-damage, sunburn, photo-aging, as well as to decrease the chances of skin cancer development caused by exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation.
[0005] The degree of UV protection afforded by a sunscreen composition is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters contained therein. Particularly, sunscreen compositions must provide good protection against the sun, a measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value.
[0006] Such value is the most important property for sunscreen compositions and, providing compositions with higher SPFs values is extremally desirable. Thus, there has been a need for a sunscreen composition having improved SPFs values, in order to avoid undesired consequences of exposure to the sunlight.
[0007] However, high levels of UV filters in sunscreen products render the products less appealing for their greasy skin feel, stickiness, long drying time, and leave shiny residue on the skin after application. The filters also have the tendency to whiten the skin after application and after becoming wet with water or perspiration which is an undesirable attribute.
[0008] Therefore, a stable sunscreen composition with high SPF is desired, associated with easy application, good spreadability, drying time, tackiness, less white film, less shine (oily texture), which does not melt at high temperature on the face, has an imperceptible touch, gives the ideal balance between hydration and oil control and combines high protection with smoothness to the skin.
[0009] In order to increase the value of SPF while preventing the use of a significant amount of UV filters in sunscreen compositions and leading to positive costs and environmental impact, sunscreen boosters (also called "SPF boosters" or "UV boosters") have come into use.
[0010] The present invention overcame the drawbacks of the state of the art and achieved a cosmetic sunscreen composition with high / increased SPF by the association of UV filters and fatty compounds as SPF boosters without increasing the amount of UV filters.
[0011] The inventors of the present invention surprisingly and unexpectedly achieved cosmetic sunscreen compositions with improved SPF, comprising (a) at least one organic UV filter; (b) at least one polymer; (c) at least one surfactant; and (d) a fatty compound system, that are able to provide higher SPF values in comparison to the prior art compositions.
[0012] The specific fatty compound system of the present invention is a SPF booster for the organic UV filters of the composition.
[0013] Thus, the present invention aims to provide cosmetic sunscreen compositions that has improved SPF values, while allows less amounts of UV filters to be applied in cosmetic sunscreen compositions and allows a higher photoprotection of keratinous materials, particularly the skin, increased film deposition and UV absorption.
[0014] SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0015] The present invention is directed to new cosmetic sunscreens compositions with improved SPF, comprising (a) at least one organic UV filter; (b) at least one polymer; (c) at least one surfactant; and (d) a fatty compound system, which surprisingly provides increased SPF properties in cosmetic sunscreen compositions containing only oil phase organic filters. The present invention is also related to the use of a fatty compound system for improving the SPF on cosmetic sunscreen compositions and the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.
[0016] Other features and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the following more detailed description of the desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.
[0017] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0018] The cosmetic sunscreen composition with improved SPF of the present invention comprises:
[0019] (a) at least one organic UV filter;
[0020] (b) at least one polymer;
[0021] (c) at least one surfactant; and (d) a fatty compound system.
[0022] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one organic UV filter is selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof.
[0023] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one organic UV filter is present in a concentration ranging from about 2.0% to about 30.0% by weight, preferably from about 2.0% to about 15.0% by weight, more preferably from about 3.0% to about 12.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0024] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one polymer is selected from acrylates / Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0025] In a preferred embodiment the at least one polymer is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.01 % to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.05% to about 1.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 0.5% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 0.5%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0026] In a preferred embodiment, the polymer acrylates / Cw-so alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is present in a range of about 0.01 % by weight to about 2.5% by weight.
[0027] In another preferred embodiment, the polymer xanthan gum is present in a range of about 0.01 % by weight to about 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0028] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one surfactant is selected from stearic acid, glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof.
[0029] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one surfactant is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.5% to about 12.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8.0% by weight, more preferably from about 1.0% to about 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0030] In a preferred embodiment, the stearic acid is present in a range of about 0.5% by weight to about 4.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0031] In another preferred embodiment, the glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate are present in a range of about 0.5% by weight to about 4.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In another preferred embodiment, the potassium cetyl phosphate is present in a range of about 0.5% by weight to about 4.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0032] In a preferred embodiment, the fatty compound system is selected from hydrogenated castor oil and Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter.
[0033] In a preferred embodiment, the fatty compound system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.5% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably from about 2.0% to about 8.0% by weight, more preferably from about 4.0% to about 6.0% by weight, and even more preferably ranging from about 2.0% to about 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0034] In a preferred embodiment, the hydrogenated castor oil is present in a range of about 0.25% by weight to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 2% to about 4%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0035] In another preferred embodiment, the Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter is present in a range of about 0.25% by weight to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 2% to about 4%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0036] In the fatty compound system, the hydrogenated castor oil and Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter are present in a ratio of 1 :1 .
[0037] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition is free of silicones, octocrylene, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, water phase UV filters, and microplastics.
[0038] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise additional ingredients such as solvents, vitamins, active compounds, fillers, or fatty compounds other than the fatty compound system of the present invention.
[0039] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is an O / W emulsion.
[0040] In a preferred embodiment the pH of the cosmetic sunscreen composition ranges from about 4.0 to about 8.0. In a more preferred embodiment, the pH of the composition is about 7.0.
[0041] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention presents an improved SPF property, which provides several beneficial attributes to the product, including the protection of the skin from damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, known as UVA and UVB rays, as well as visible and infrared light, easy application, good spreadability, less white film, less shine, which does not melt on high temperature in the face, has an imperceptible touch and combines high protection with smoothness to the skin. Also, the composition of the present invention is stable over the time and provides increased film deposition and UV absorption.
[0042] In another preferred embodiment, the present invention is related to the use of a fatty compound system for improving the SPF of the cosmetic sunscreen compositions (SPF booster).
[0043] In another preferred embodiment, the present invention is related to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention for the manufacture of a product to be used as sunscreen daily product.
[0044] TERMS
[0045] As used herein, the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0046] Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about,” meaning within + / - 10% of the indicated number.
[0047] As used herein, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones.
[0048] As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present ( / .e., “consisting of”).
[0049] The terms "a," "an," and "the" are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular.
[0050] As used herein, the phrases “and mixtures thereof,” “and a mixture thereof,” “and combinations thereof,” “and a combination thereof,” “or mixtures thereof,” “or a mixture thereof,” “or combinations thereof,” and “or a combination thereof,” are used interchangeably to denote that the listing of components immediately preceding the phrase, such as “A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof” signify that the component(s) may be chosen from A, from B, from C, from D, from A+B, from A+B+C, from A+D, from A+C+D, etc., without limitation on the variations thereof. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any combination thereof. The term “(O / W) emulsion”, also known as “oil-in-water emulsions” as used herein refers to mixtures consisting of an oil phase dispersed in water or another aqueous liquid. (O / W) emulsions are known as direct emulsions.
[0051] The term “SPF”, as used herein refers to the “Sun Protection Factor”, which indicates the level of protection against UVB radiation of a product. The SPF indicates the time a person can be exposed to sunlight using sunscreen before getting sunburnt and the time they can be exposed to sunlight without getting sunburnt.
[0052] ORGANIC UV FILTERS
[0053] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises at least one organic UV filter.
[0054] According to the present invention, UV filters are compounds that are active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic.
[0055] Organic UV Filters
[0056] The preferably embodiment, organic UV filters according to the present invention are selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof.
[0057] Additional Organic UV Filters
[0058] Additional organic UV filters can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; |3,|3-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinicacid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides having an aromatic amino acid residue; and mixtures thereof.
[0059] Mention may be made, as examples of the organic UV filter(s), of those denoted below under their INCI names, and mixtures thereof. Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate. Dibenzoylmethane compounds: isopropyl dibenzoylmethane. Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl- 4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate. Salicylic compounds: glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropyleneglycol salicylate; and TEA salicylate. Camphor compounds, in particular, benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor. Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone); benzophenone-2
[0060] (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone); Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone; benzophenone-4 (hydroxy methoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid); benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); benzophenone-8; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate); and benzophenone-12, and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate. [3,[3-Diphenylacrylate compounds: Etocrylene. Triazine compounds: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine. Benzotriazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in USP 5240975. Benzalmalonate compounds: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups. Benzimidazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate. Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate. Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: the derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264. Paraaminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA. Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds, such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol], 2,2'- methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol], and the derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071 and 5, 166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26, 184, and EP-893,119, and Drometrizole trisiloxane. Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2- ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine It is in some embodiments desirable that the organic UV filter(s) can be selected from the group consisting of: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, l,r-(l,4- piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone 4- methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6- tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3- {1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 -[(trimethylsilyloxy]- disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4,6- tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, dineopentyl 4'- methoxybenzalmalonate, l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis[5-l (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino- 1,3,5-triazine, camphor benzylkonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0061] POLYMERS
[0062] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polymer.
[0063] Preferably, the polymers according to the present invention are selected from acrylates / C -30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0064] SURFACTANTS
[0065] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises at least one surfactant.
[0066] Preferably, the surfactants according to the present invention are selected from stearic acid, glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof.
[0067] Additional Surfactants
[0068] Non-limiting examples of additional anionic surfactants for the embodiment of the present invention are selected from the group comprising alkyl sulfates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, sulfonates, such as alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, taurates and N-acyl N-methyltaurates, isethionates, N- acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D- galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, and salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; or the non-salified forms of all of these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all of these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. Some of these compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
[0069] Non limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants for the embodiment of the present invention are, for example, alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol, such as polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, mixtures of alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol with polyglyceryl, such as polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, for instance sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, especially alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) such as decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, and also arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition. Mention may also be made of lecithins and derivatives (e.g. Biophilic), sugar esters and sodium stearoyl lactylate.
[0070] FATTY COMPOUND SYSTEM
[0071] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises a fatty compound system.
[0072] The fatty compound system according to the present invention provides a SPF booster to the cosmetic sunscreen composition. The fatty compound system also increases UV absorption.
[0073] The fatty compound system is selected from hydrogenated castor oil and Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter. Particularly, the hydrogenated castor oil is composed mainly of 12- hydroxystearic acid, a gelling of oils molecule which increases film deposition performance.
[0074] ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
[0075] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention may also comprise any other additional ingredient that is usually used in the field of sunscreen products, in particular sunscreen compositions.
[0076] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise additional ingredients such as solvents, vitamins, active compounds, fillers, SPF ingredients, or fatty compounds other than the fatty compound system of the present invention.
[0077] Non-limiting examples of solvents according to the present invention includes alcohols, water, glycerin, caprylyl glycol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, among others, and mixtures thereof.
[0078] Non-limiting examples of vitamins includes tocopherol, among others.
[0079] Non-limiting examples of active compounds according to the present invention includes triethanolamine, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, hydroxyacetophenone, among others, and mixtures thereof.
[0080] Non-limiting examples of fillers includes silica, among others.
[0081] Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds other than the fatty compound system of the present invention includes isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, among others, and mixtures thereof.
[0082] The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional ingredients so as not to adversely impact the final use of the sunscreen composition according to the present invention.
[0083] A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and / or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
[0084] The additional ingredients may represent from about 0.1 % to about 70.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0085] EMBODIMENT OF THE INVENTION
[0086] In one embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition with improved
[0087] SPF is as follows: (a) from about 2.0% to about 30.0% by weight of at least one organic UV filter, selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof;
[0088] (b) from about 0.01 % to about 5.0% by weight of at least one polymer, selected from acrylates / Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof;
[0089] (c) from about 0.5% to about 12.0% by weight of at least one surfactant, selected from stearic acid, glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof; and
[0090] (d) from about 0.5% to about 10.0% by weight of a fatty compound system, selected from hydrogenated castor oil and Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter; all weights based on the total weight of the composition.
[0091] PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION
[0092] The present invention is also related to a process for manufacturing a cosmetic sunscreen composition that provides for the consumer the properties described above. The process according to the present invention comprise the steps of:
[0093] (a) melting and mixing the oil phase comprising solvents, organic UV filters, surfactants, and the fatty compound system (hydrogenated castor oil and Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter) at a temperature ranging from about 75 °C to about 90 °C, and adding polymers after oil phase is melted completely;
[0094] (b) adding heated water phase at a temperature ranging from about 70 °C to about 85 °C to the oil phase mixture of step (a) at a temperature ranging from about 70 °C to about 85 °C;
[0095] (c) optionally, incorporating additional ingredients to the mixture of step (b) at a temperature ranging from 20 °C to 40 °C.
[0096] EXAMPLES
[0097] Examples 1 and 2
[0098] A non-limiting example of the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention is as Example 2 and the cosmetic sunscreen composition of prior art is as Example 1 as shown in table 1 below.
[0099] TABLE 1
[0100] Example 2 - Comparative SPF Boosting Performance Evaluation
[0101] A comparative boosting performance evaluation was carried out between the cosmetic sunscreen compositions of Examples 1 and 2. The used methodology was according to standard method ISO / EN24444:2019 “Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF)”, and according to Australian / New Zealand standard method AS / NZS 2604:2021 “Sunscreen Products - Evaluation and classification”. The comparative evaluation was conducted with 10 female and male healthy subjects, aged from 18 to 65 years old. The application of the cosmetic sunscreen compositions of Examples 1 and 2 was performed on defined zones (8 *5 cm) of the back in standard quantity, and the SPF results were calculated as an arithmetical mean, with 95% confidence interval (Cl), of all individual SPF values.
[0102] Particularly, the minimal erythemal dose in human skin is defined as the lowest erythemal affective radiant exposure (Her) that produces the first perceptible unambiguous erythema with defined borders appearing over more than 50% of UV exposure subsite, 16h to 24h after UV exposure to a solar simulator, with 6 increasing doses of UV (15% progression).
[0103] The average SPF for Example 1 was 29.3.
[0104] The average SPF for Example 2 was 33.8.
[0105] As a conclusion, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of Example 2 comprising the fatty compound system according to the present invention, surprisingly shows a superior SPF performance in view of Example 1 , that does not comprise such fatty compound system.
Claims
SET OF CLAIMS1. Cosmetic sunscreen composition with improved SPF, comprising:(a) at least one organic UV filter selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof;(b) at least one polymer selected from aery lates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof;(c) at least one surfactant selected from stearic acid, glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof; and(d) a fatty compound system selected from hydrogenated castor oil and Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter.
2. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one organic UV filter is present in a concentration ranging from 2.0% to 30.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
3. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one polymer is present in a concentration ranging from 0.01 % to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
4. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one surfactant is present in a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 12.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
5. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the fatty compound system is present in a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
6. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein, in the fatty compound system, the hydrogenated castor oil and Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter are present in a ratio of 1 :1 .
7. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition is free of silicones, octocrylene, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, water phase UV filters, and microplastics.
8. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein it further comprises at least one additional ingredient selected from a solvents, vitamins, active compounds, fillers, or fatty compounds other than the fatty compound system of item (d).
9. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition is an O / W emulsion.
10. Cosmetic sunscreen composition with improved SPF, comprising:(a) 2.0% to 15.0% by weight of at least one organic UV filter selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof;(b) 0.1 % to 0.5% by weight of at least one polymer selected from acrylates / Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof;(c) 1.0% to 5.0% by weight of at least one surfactant selected from stearic acid, glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof; and(d) 2.0% to 5.0% by weight of a fatty compound system selected from hydrogenated castor oil and Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter; wherein all weights are based on the total weight of the composition.
11. Use of a fatty compound system, selected from hydrogenated castor oil and Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, wherein it is for improving the SPF in cosmetic sunscreen compositions.
12. Use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising:(a) at least one organic UV filter selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof;(b) at least one polymer selected from aery lates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof;(c) at least one surfactant selected from stearic acid, glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof; and(d) a fatty compound system selected from hydrogenated castor oil and Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, wherein it is for the manufacture of a product to be used as sunscreen daily product.
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