Cosmetic sunscreen compositions and use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition

Abstract

The present invention is directed to cosmetic sunscreen compositions with light, fresh and watery sensation, blurring effect and improved SPF, comprising (a) a fatty compound system; (b) Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax; (c) a filler system; (d) a polymer and surfactant system; and (e) at least one organic UV filter. The invention is also related to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.

Description

[0001] COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITIONS AND USE OF A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0002] The present invention is directed to cosmetic sunscreen compositions with light, fresh and watery sensation, blurring effect and improved SPF, comprising (a) a fatty compound system; (b) Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax; (c) a filler system; (d) a polymer and surfactant system; and (e) at least one organic UV filter. The invention is also related to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.

[0003] BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0004] The photoprotection of keratinous materials, is considered of great importance in order to protect from sun-damage, sunburn, photo-aging, as well as to decrease the chances of skin cancer development caused by exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation.

[0005] Consumers are concerned with the negative effects of the sun exposition, particularly the hazardous effects of exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation. Prolonged exposure to sunlight causes damage, such as sunburn, to the skin. When skin is exposed to UV light having a wavelength of from about 290 nm to about 400 nm, longterm damage can lead to serious conditions, such as skin cancer. UV radiation also contributes to aging by causing free radicals to form in the skin. Free radicals include, for example, singlet oxygen, hydroxyl radical, the superoxide anion, nitric oxide, and hydrogen radicals. Free radicals attack DNA, membrane lipids and proteins, generating carbon radicals. These in turn react with oxygen to produce a peroxyl radical that can attack adjacent fatty acids to generate new carbon radicals. This cascade leads to a chain reaction producing lipid peroxidation products. Damage to the cell membrane results in loss of cell permeability, increased intercellular ionic concentration, and decreased ability to excrete or detoxify waste products. The end result is a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles. This process is commonly referred to as photo-aging.

[0006] In this sense, in a skincare regimen, consumers apply cosmetic sunscreen compositions to protect the skin and the feeling of the product on the skin is very important.

[0007] Consumers are, therefore, increasingly looking for cosmetic sunscreen products that provides light sensation and fit into their skincare. Moreover, consumers are also looking for cosmetic sunscreen products that comprise green technology (more biobased and biodegradable ingredients) and do not negative impact the environment.

[0008] Regarding the degree of UV protection of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, it is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters contained therein. The higher the amount of UV filters, the greater the degree of UV protection (UVA / UVB). It is a challenge to obtain a stable sunscreen cosmetic composition with high amounts of UV filters.

[0009] Particularly, cosmetic sunscreen compositions must provide good protection against the sun, a measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value. Such value is the most important property for sunscreen compositions and, providing compositions with higher SPFs values is extremally desirable. Thus, there has been a need for a sunscreen composition having improved SPFs values, in order to avoid undesired consequences of exposure to the sunlight.

[0010] However, high levels of UV filters in sunscreen products render the products less appealing for their greasy skin feel, stickiness, long drying time, and leave shiny residue on the skin after application. The filters also have the tendency to whiten the skin after application and after becoming wet with water or perspiration which is an undesirable attribute.

[0011] Therefore, a stable sunscreen composition with high SPF is desired, associated with easy application, high spreadability, short drying time, fast absorption, non-greasy sensation, less stickiness, less white film, with a blurring effect, which does not melt at high temperature on the face, has an imperceptible touch, gives the ideal balance between hydration and oil control and combines high protection with smoothness to the skin.

[0012] The inventors of the present invention have overcome the drawbacks of the state of the art and surprisingly and unexpectedly achieved a cosmetic sunscreen composition with light and watery sensation, blurring effect and improved SPF, comprising, (a) a fatty compound system; (b) Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax; (c) a filler system; (d) a polymer and surfactant system; and (e) at least one organic UV filter.

[0013] The use of the polymer and surfactant system associated with the ingredients of the composition, provides the desired properties of the invention. Particularly, the use of potato starch modified demonstrated an unexpected boosting effect providing not only a high SPF, but also increasing the sustainability properties of the composition.

[0014] The present invention aims to provide cosmetic sunscreen compositions that is light and fits into the consumer’s skincare routine, while has improved SPF values, and allows a higher photoprotection of keratinous materials, particularly the skin.

[0015] SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0016] The present invention is directed to new light and fresh cosmetic sunscreen compositions with light and watery sensation, blurring effect and improved SPF, comprising (a) a fatty compound system; (b) Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax;

[0017] (c) a filler system; (d) a polymer and surfactant system; and (e) at least one organic UV filter, which surprisingly provides a light sensorial, with less stickiness, high spreadability, fast absorption and a non-greasy sensation, with a quick break and blurring effect, as well as an increase in the SPF properties in cosmetic sunscreen compositions. The present invention is also related to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.

[0018] Other features and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the following more detailed description of the desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.

[0019] BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0020] Figures 1 A to 1 D are microscopy images and show the comparative blur effect analysis between the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 1 and the comparative composition C2.

[0021] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0022] The cosmetic sunscreen composition with light and watery sensation, blurring effect and improved SPF comprises:

[0023] (a) a fatty compound system;

[0024] (b) Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax;

[0025] (c) a filler system;

[0026] (d) a polymer and surfactant system; and

[0027] (e) at least one organic UV filter.

[0028] In a preferred embodiment, the fatty compound system is selected from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the fatty compound system is present in a concentration ranging from about 1.2% to about 35.0% by weight, preferably from about 2.0% to about 25.0% by weight, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0029] In a preferred embodiment, the isopropyl myristate is present in a range of about 0.3% by weight to about 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0030] In another preferred embodiment, the diisopropyl sebacate is present in a range of about 0.3% by weight to about 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0031] In another preferred embodiment, the dicaprylyl carbonate is present in a range of about 0.3% by weight to about 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0032] In a preferred embodiment the Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 3.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0033] In a preferred embodiment, the filler system is selected from silica, silica silylate, cellulose, and mixtures thereof.

[0034] In a preferred embodiment the filler system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.06% to about 9.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 6.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0035] In a preferred embodiment, the silica is present in a range of about 0.02% by weight to about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0036] In another preferred embodiment, the silica silylate is present in a range of about 0.02% by weight to about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0037] In another preferred embodiment, the cellulose is present in a range of about 0.02% by weight to about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0038] In a preferred embodiment, the polymer of the polymer and surfactant system is selected from acrylates / C -so alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, potato starch modified, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the surfactant of the polymer and surfactant system is selected from arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, and mixtures thereof.

[0039] In another preferred embodiment, the polymer and surfactant system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.1 % to about 7.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.3% to about 4.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0040] In a preferred embodiment, the polymer is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0041] In a preferred embodiment, the acrylates / C -so alkyl acrylate crosspolymer present in the polymer and surfactant system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0042] In a preferred embodiment, the potato starch modified present in the polymer and surfactant system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0043] In a preferred embodiment, the cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose present in the polymer and surfactant system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0044] In a preferred embodiment, the surfactant is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0045] In a preferred embodiment, the arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside present in the polymer and surfactant system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0046] In a preferred embodiment, the polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate present in the polymer and surfactant system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0047] In a preferred embodiment, the polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax present in the polymer and surfactant system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0048] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one organic UV filter is selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one organic UV filter is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.1 % to about 30.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 25.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0050] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one organic UV filter is free of octocrylene, homosalate, and ethylhexyl salicylate.

[0051] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is free of silicones.

[0052] In an embodiment, the pH of the composition ranges from about 4.0 to 6.5.

[0053] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise an amino acid.

[0054] In a preferred embodiment, the amino acid is arginine, among others.

[0055] In a preferred embodiment, the amino acid is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.001 % to about 1 .0% by weight, preferably from about 0.005% to about 0.5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.0075% to about 0.1 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0056] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise additional ingredients such as solvents, vitamins, active compounds, or preservatives.

[0057] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention shows a blurring effect and breaks instantly upon application, which creates a very watery sensation.

[0058] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention presents an improved SPF property, which provides several beneficial attributes to the product, including the protection of the skin from damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, known as UVA and UVB rays, as well as visible and infrared light, light sensation, easy application, good spreadability, less white film, less shine, which does not melt on high temperature in the face, has an imperceptible touch and combines high protection with smoothness to the skin. Also, the composition of the present invention is stable over the time and provides increased film deposition and UV absorption.

[0059] In another preferred embodiment, the present invention is related to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention for the manufacture of a product to be used as sunscreen daily product.

[0060] TERMS

[0061] As used herein, the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0062] Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about,” meaning within + / - 10% of the indicated number.

[0063] As used herein, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones.

[0064] As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present ( / .e., “consisting of”).

[0065] The terms "a," "an," and "the" are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular.

[0066] As used herein, the phrases “and mixtures thereof,” “and a mixture thereof,” “and combinations thereof,” “and a combination thereof,” “or mixtures thereof,” “or a mixture thereof,” “or combinations thereof,” and “or a combination thereof,” are used interchangeably to denote that the listing of components immediately preceding the phrase, such as “A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof” signify that the component(s) may be chosen from A, from B, from C, from D, from A+B, from A+B+C, from A+D, from A+C+D, etc., without limitation on the variations thereof. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any combination thereof.

[0067] The term “SPF”, as used herein refers to the “Sun Protection Factor”, which indicates the level of protection against UVB radiation of a product. The SPF indicates the time a person can be exposed to sunlight using sunscreen before getting sunburnt and the time they can be exposed to sunlight without getting sunburnt. The phrase “quick break effect”, as used herein, refers to the sensation perceived immediately after applying the sunscreen composition to the skin. It refers to the way the sunscreen spreads and “breaks” easily on the skin, leaving a watery sensation with a light and fast-absorbing feel, without leaving a sticky or oily residue. Essentially, it is the initial sensory experience of the product on the skin.

[0068] FATTY COMPOUND SYSTEM

[0069] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises a fatty compound system.

[0070] The fatty compound system according to the present invention provides better spreadability and solubilization of the filter.

[0071] Preferably, the fatty compound system according to the present invention is selected from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] Further to the preferential fatty compounds, the composition of the present invention may comprise diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl ether, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dibutyl adipate, isoamyl caprate-caprylate and mixtures thereof.

[0073] COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX

[0074] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises a Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax.

[0075] Carnauba wax (Copernicia cerifera wax) is a hard wax scraped from the leaves and leaf strams of carnauba palms, Copernicia cerifera. The Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax comprises esters of C18-C32 fatty acids, and C28-C34 alcohols, also containing high amounts of hydroxy acid esters and melting points around 80 °C and 86 °C.

[0076] Additionally, the Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax usually comprises from about 80% by weight to about 85% by weight of fatty esters, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of alcohols, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of hydrocarbons, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of free acids, from about 1 % by weight to about 6% by weight of resins, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of lactic components and from about 0.1 % by weight to about 2% by weight of humidity. Particularly, the Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax is a complex composition with up to 10% cinnamic acid, which is responsible for its UV absorption profile, and for providing thickness to the oil phase and stability to the formulation.

[0077] FILLER SYSTEM

[0078] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises a filler system.

[0079] The term “filler” means any colorless or white solid particles of any form that are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0080] The combination of fillers according to the present invention provides better oil control and blur effect to the cosmetic sunscreen composition.

[0081] The cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the invention include a spherical amorphous silica, silica silylate and cellulose and mixtures thereof. According to certain embodiments, the mean size of these particles of spherical amorphous silica is less than 15.0 pm and more particularly ranges from 3 to 10 pm. The particles of spherical amorphous silica useful according to the invention are colorless or white solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. The spherical amorphous silica may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent, although in certain embodiments it is free from such coatings.

[0082] The “silica silylate” according to the present invention is hydrophobic silica aerogels, as described in WO 2021 / 016680. The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example, trimethylsilyl groups. Preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface-modified by silylation, is found in U.S. Patent No. 7,470,725, incorporated herein by reference. In one embodiment, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups are desirable.

[0083] Non-limiting examples powdered fillers useful in the invention include, for example, talc, mica, magnesium aluminum silicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, perlite powders, fluorphlogopite, sericite, calcinated talc, calcinated mica, calcinated sericite, synthetic mica, lauroyl lysine, metal soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof. Powdered filters do not include powdered pigments.

[0084] POLYMER AND SURFACTANT SYSTEM

[0085] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises a polymer and surfactant system.

[0086] According to the present invention, the polymer and surfactant system have the function of helping with a quick break effect (watery sensorial) and formation of a homogeneous deposit that promotes an increase in SPF.

[0087] Preferably, the polymer according to the present invention is selected from acrylates / C -30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, potato starch modified, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] The potato starch modified is considered a biopolymer and provides a SPF booster.

[0089] Preferably, the surfactant according to the present invention is selected from arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, polyglyceryl-3- methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Additional Surfactants

[0091] Non-limiting examples of additional anionic surfactants for the embodiment of the present invention are selected from the group comprising alkyl sulfates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, sulfonates, such as alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, taurates and N-acyl N-methyltaurates, isethionates, N- acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D- galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, and salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; or the non-salified forms of all of these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all of these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. Some of these compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. Non limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants for the embodiment of the present invention are, for example, alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol, such as polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, mixtures of alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol with polyglyceryl, such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, for instance sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, especially alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) such as decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition. Mention may also be made of lecithins and derivatives (e.g. Biophilic), sugar esters and sodium stearoyl lactylate.

[0092] ORGANIC UV FILTER

[0093] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises at least one organic UV filter.

[0094] According to the present invention, UV filters are compounds that are active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic.

[0095] Organic UV Filters

[0096] Preferably, the UV filtering system according to the present invention are organic UV filters selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Additional Organic UV Filters

[0098] Additional organic UV filters can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; |3,|3-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic acid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides having an aromatic amino acid residue; and mixtures thereof.

[0099] Mention may be made, as examples of the organic UV filter(s), of those denoted below under their INCI names, and mixtures thereof. Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate. Dibenzoylmethane compounds: isopropyl dibenzoylmethane. Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl- 4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate. Salicylic compounds: glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropyleneglycol salicylate; and TEA salicylate. Camphor compounds, in particular, benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor. Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone); benzophenone-2

[0100] (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone); Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone; benzophenone-4 (hydroxy methoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid); benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); benzophenone-8; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate); and benzophenone-12, and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate. [3,[3-Diphenylacrylate compound: Etocrylene. Triazine compounds: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine. Benzotriazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in USP 5240975. Benzalmalonate compounds: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15. Benzimidazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate. Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate. Bis- benzoazolyl compounds: the derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264. Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA. Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds, such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol], 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol], and the derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071 and 5, 166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26, 184, and EP-893,119, and Drometrizole trisiloxane. Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2- ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine

[0101] It is in some embodiments desirable that the organic UV filter(s) can be selected from the group consisting of: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, l,r-(l,4- piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone 4- methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6- tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)- s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3- {1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 -[(trimethylsilyloxy]-disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4,6- tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, dineopentyl 4'- methoxybenzalmalonate, l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis[5-l (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino- 1,3,5-triazine, camphor benzylkonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0102] ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

[0103] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention may also comprise any other additional ingredient that is usually used in the field of sunscreen products, in particular sunscreen compositions.

[0104] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise additional ingredients such as solvents, vitamins, active compounds, or preservatives.

[0105] Non-limiting examples of solvents according to the present invention includes alcohols, water, propanediol, among others, and mixtures thereof.

[0106] Non-limiting examples of vitamins includes tocopherol, among others. Non-limiting examples of preservatives according to the present invention include chlorphenesin, hydroxyacetophenone, among others.

[0107] The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional ingredients so as not to adversely impact the final use of the sunscreen composition according to the present invention.

[0108] A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and / or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

[0109] The additional ingredients may represent from about 0.1 % to about 70.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0110] EMBODIMENT OF THE INVENTION

[0111] In a non-limitative embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition with light and watery sensation, blurring effect and improved SPF is as follows:

[0112] (a) from about 1.2% to about 35.0% by weight of a fatty compound system;

[0113] (b) from about 0.05% to about 5.0% by weight of Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax;

[0114] (c) from about 0.06% to about 9.0% by weight of a filler system selected from silica, silica silylate, cellulose, and mixtures thereof;

[0115] (d) from about 0.1 % to about 7.0% by weight of a polymer and surfactant system, wherein the polymer is selected from acrylates / Cw-so alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, potato starch modified, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof, wherein the surfactant is selected from arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl- 6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, and mixtures thereof; and

[0116] (e) from about 0.1 % to about 30.0% by weight of at least one organic UV filter, selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof; all weights based on the total weight of the composition. PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION

[0117] The present invention is also related to a process for manufacturing a cosmetic sunscreen composition that provides for the consumer the properties described above. The process according to the present invention comprise the steps of:

[0118] Step (a): Preparing an oily phase by mixing the UV filters, the surfactants, fatty compounds, until total homogenization;

[0119] Step (b): Preparing an aqueous phase by mixing the water, aqueous phase fillers; Step (c): Adding the aqueous phase of step (b) to the oily phase of step

[0120] (a) under mixing until complete formation of the emulsion;

[0121] Step (d): Adding the polymers after the emulsion of step (c) under mixing until total homogenization; incorporating the additional ingredients into step (d). EXAMPLES

[0122] Examples 1 to 5

[0123] Non-limiting examples of the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention are Examples 1 to 5 as shown in table 1 below.

[0124] TABLE 1

[0125] Example 6 - SPF Comparative Boosting Performance

[0126] An in vivo comparative boosting performance evaluation was carried out between Examples 1 and 2. The used methodology was according to standard method 18024444:2019 / Amd1 :2022 and AS / NZS 2604:2021 in a single-blind, clinical study with parallel control. The comparative evaluation was conducted with 10 female healthy subjects, aged from 18 to 65 years old, with phototypes II and III.

[0127] The cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 were applied on the subject's dry skin and irradiated with a controlled dose of ultraviolet radiation (product applied with small circular movements without fingercot and application time between 32 and 38 seconds). The SPF result was calculated as an arithmetical mean, with 95% confidence interval (Cl), of all individual SPF values.

[0128] The average static SPF in vivo for Example 1 , with ten valid results, was 54.6.

[0129] The average static SPF in vivo for Example 2, with ten valid results, was 68.1.

[0130] As a conclusion, the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 2 of the present invention, comprising an increased amount of potato starch modified, shows a superior SPF performance (increase of 14 points of SPF measured in vivo) in view cosmetic sunscreen composition of Example 1.

[0131] Example 7 - UVA-PF Performance

[0132] An in vivo UVA-PF performance analysis was carried out between Examples 1 and 2. The used methodology was according to standard method ISO24442. The UVA-PF performance is a simple ratio of the number of seconds or accumulated Joulles / m2of light exposure, divided by the value for the unprotected exposure seconds. The evaluation was conducted with 5 female and male healthy subjects, aged from 18 to 65 years old, with phototypes III and IV. A very accurately measured and controlled amount (2 mg / cm2) of the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 were applied to a marked-out area of the subject's dry skin (product applied with small circular movements without fingercot and application time between 33 and 38 seconds). The cosmetic sunscreen compositions are allowed to dry for 15 to 30 minutes and irradiated with a controlled dose of ultraviolet radiation. The UVA-PF result was calculated as an arithmetical mean, with 95% confidence interval (Cl), of all individual UVA-PF values.

[0133] The average UVA-PF value for Example 1 , with five valid results, was 18.3.

[0134] The average UVA-PF value for Example 2, with five valid results, was 19.9.

[0135] An efficient cosmetic sunscreen composition has a mean UVA-PF between 10.7 and 14.7. As a conclusion, the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention shows an improved UVA-PF performance.

[0136] Example 8 - Sensorial Performance

[0137] In order to evaluate the sensorial performance of the cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention, the following studies were conducted.

[0138] Example 8.1 - Expert Sensory

[0139] A comparative test between the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 3 of the present invention and a sunscreen composition C1 of the state of the art was carried out.

[0140] Comparative composition C1 had the following listing of ingredients on the package: aqua, isododecane, homosalate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ceramide NP, ceramide EOP, ceramide AP, ceramide AS, ceramide NS, Centella asiatica extract, bisabolol, bifida ferment lysate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, silica dimethyl silylate, ethylhexyl triazone, silica, methicone, caprylyl methicone, disteardimonium hectorite, propylene carbonate, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Portulaca oleracea extract, ethylhexylglycerin, tocopherol.

[0141] For this evaluation, professionals trained in the evaluation of sunscreens compared several desirable characteristics of a sunscreen composition. As a result, the experts concluded that the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 3 of the present invention shows an enhanced watery sensation, improved absorption, fewer wrinkles under the eyes, fewer lines of the dehydrated face, as well as it is less shiny and easier to apply. On the other hand, the comparative sunscreen composition C1 showed an increased oily and powdery / velvet sensation.

[0142] Example 8.2 - Sensory Panel

[0143] A sensory panel evaluated the sensation properties of the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention in comparison to the sunscreen compositions C1 and C2 of the state of the art.

[0144] The comparative composition C1 is as specified in Example 8.1. Comparative composition C2 had the following listing of ingredients on the package: Aqua (Water), Octocrylene, Propanediol, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Dimethicone, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Polysilicone-15, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, Tromethamine, Bis- Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Silica, DimethiconeA / inyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, 1 ,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 60, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum (Fragrance), Disodium EDTA, PEG-8, Tocopherol, Tropolone, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid.

[0145] For this evaluation, the panelists were asked to describe the differences between the samples and give an indication of the differences between them. The panelists concluded that the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention show fast absorption and lower residue, as well as have low greasy application and fingers, providing a pleasant sensation to the touch, in comparison to comparative compositions C1 and C2.

[0146] According to the panelists, in terms of application, C1 promotes more white film, and C2 promotes more white film, soaping effect and immediate sticky skin than the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 2.

[0147] Regarding the immediate skin finish, the panelists concluded that C1 tends to deliver more white skin, and C2 delivers shinier skin and tends to promote more slippery skin than the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 2.

[0148] In conclusion, the most appreciated attributes of the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention were its good absorption, clean skin and comfortably dry skin sensations, oil control during the day, hydration, and silky feel.

[0149] Example 8.3 - Shine Analysis

[0150] A comparative shine analysis between the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 1 of the present invention and the comparative sunscreen composition C2 was carried out. The analysis was conducted with a Glossmeter.

[0151] The results of the shine analysis are summarized in Table 2 below.

[0152] TABLE 2

[0153] The shine analysis performed shows that the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention have a less glossy finish compared to the compositions of the state of the art. This difference is related to the incorporation of the specific combination of silica, silica silylate, and cellulose into the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention, which act as mattifying agents, absorbing excess oil and sebum on the skin surface.

[0154] This result demonstrates that the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention efficiently meet the needs of consumers, who seek products with effective shine control.

[0155] Example 8.4 - Blur Effect

[0156] A comparative blur effect test between the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 1 of the present invention and the comparative sunscreen composition C2 was carried out. The results of the blur effect test are shown in Figures 1A to 1 D.

[0157] Initially, a microscopy image of the artificial skin was taken (Figures 1A and 1 C). Then, the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 1 were applied to the artificial skin and allowed to dry. After it dried, a new microscopy image was taken (Figures 1 B and 1 D).

[0158] Figures 1 B and 1 D demonstrate that the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention exhibits a matte aspect and a blurring effect when applied to the artificial skin. This superior property is related to the incorporation of the specific combination of silica, silica silylate, and cellulose into the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention. The larger cellulose particles act as fillers and disperse light, helping to fill in skin imperfections, creating a smoother and more uniform surface. Silica and silica silylate, with smaller particles, focus on absorbing oil and providing soft focus, respectively. This combined performance leads to skin with a more uniform and smooth appearance, without excessive shine.

[0159] Example 9 - In vitro SPF Performance

[0160] An in vitro study was conducted in order to evaluate the in vitro SPF values of the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Examples 4 and 5.

[0161] The in vitro SPF of the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 4 was 50.3, and the in vitro SPF of the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 5 was 50.4.

[0162] The results of in vitro SPF test demonstrate that the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention show improved SPF properties.

[0163] The Examples demonstrated that the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention provide light and watery sensation and a superior application and finish, as well as an increase in the SPF properties compared to standard cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the state of the art.

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS1. Cosmetic sunscreen composition with light and watery sensation, blurring effect and improved SPF, comprising:(a) a fatty compound system, selected from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof;(b) Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax;(c) a filler system, selected from silica, silica silylate, cellulose, and mixtures thereof;(d) a polymer and surfactant system, wherein the polymer is selected from acrylates / Cw-so alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, potato starch modified, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof, wherein the surfactant is selected from arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl- 6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, and mixtures thereof; and(e) at least one organic UV filter, selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof.

2. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the fatty compound system is present in a concentration ranging from 1.2% to 35.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

3. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax is present in a concentration ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

4. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the filler system is present in a concentration ranging from 0.06% to 9.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the polymer and surfactant system is present in a concentration ranging from 0.1 % to 7.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

6. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the polymer is present in a concentration ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

7. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the surfactant is present in a concentration ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

8. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one organic UV filter is present in a concentration ranging from 0.1 % to30.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

9. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one organic UV filter is free of octocrylene, homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate.

10. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition is free of silicones.

11. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition further comprises an amino acid.

12. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition further comprises at least one additional ingredient selected from solvents, vitamins, active compounds, or preservatives.

13. Cosmetic sunscreen composition with light and watery sensation, blurring effect and improved SPF, comprising:(a) 3.5% to 20.0% by weight of a fatty compound system;(b) 0.3% to 2.0% by weight of Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax;(c) 0.2% to 5.0% by weight of a filler system selected from silica, silica silylate, cellulose, and mixtures thereof;(d) 0.5% to 3.5% by weight of a polymer and surfactant system, wherein the polymer is selected from acrylates / Cw-so alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, potato starch modified, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof, wherein the surfactant is selected from arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl- 6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, and mixtures thereof; and(e) 0.75% to 20.0% by weight of at least one organic UV filter, selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof; wherein all weights are based on the total weight of the composition.

14. Use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising:(a) a fatty compound system;(b) Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax;(c) a filler system, selected from silica, silica silylate, cellulose, and mixtures thereof;(d) a polymer and surfactant system, wherein the polymer is selected from acrylates / Cw-so alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, potato starch modified, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof, wherein the surfactant is selected from arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl- 6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, and mixtures thereof; and(e) at least one organic UV filter, selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof, wherein it is for the manufacture of a product to be used as sunscreen daily product.

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