Cosmetic composition comprising cationic inulins and specific amphoteric and anionic surfactants, and cosmetic treatment process

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising cationic inulins, anionic surfactants of olefin sulfonate type, and amphoteric surfactants of alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaine type. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment, preferably cleansing and / or washing, of keratin materials, notably the hair, comprising a step of applying such a composition to said keratin materials.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising cationic inulins and specific amphoteric and anionic surfactants, and cosmetic treatment process

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising specific cationic polymers, in combination with specific amphoteric surfactants and anionic surfactants. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment, notably washing, of keratin materials, notably the hair, using said composition.

[0002] For cleansing and / or washing the hair, it is known practice to use liquid detergent hair compositions (or shampoos), based essentially on conventional surfactants, which are notably anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric, but generally anionic. These compositions are applied to wet hair and the foam generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the diverse types of soiling initially present on the hair.

[0003] Among the anionic surfactants that may be used, mention may notably be made of sulfate-based surfactants, such as alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate salts. These surfactants are known to generate abundant foam, making it possible to easily remove soiling by dispersing it in water, ultimately leading to a feeling of cleanliness.

[0004] In order to preserve natural resources, and notably water, it is advantageous to propose compositions that make it possible to reduce the amount of water needed, notably during use of the product, in particular for rinsing out said product.

[0005] In addition, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say products of which the design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major concern for contributing towards meeting global challenges.

[0006] It therefore proves essential to propose compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients that allow these environmental issues to be met. In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0007] There is therefore a real need to propose cosmetic compositions that are easy to rinse out, notably in order to save water during rinsing, while retaining both good use properties, such as a good intrinsic washing power and good foam quality (abundance notably), and excellent cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of suppleness, disentangling and smoothness to the touch, while retaining a natural feel of the hair.

[0008] It is possible to solve these problems and achieve these aims by virtue of the present invention, one subject of which is notably a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising:

[0009] - one or more cationic inulin polymers,

[0010] - one or more anionic surfactants of olefin sulfonate type, and

[0011] - one or more amphoteric surfactants of alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaine type.

[0012] The composition according to the invention is particularly easy and quick to rinse out, and makes it possible to substantially reduce the environmental impact thereof in comparison with a conventional washing composition based on sulfate-based surfactants, notably in terms of saving water.

[0013] It has better rinsability in comparison with customary compositions, while retaining good use properties; notably, it makes it possible to generate an adequate amount of good quality foam, in particular having a pleasant creaminess (creamy foam).

[0014] In addition, it makes it possible to give good cosmetic properties to the treated hair; the hair is particularly supple, easy to disentangle and smooth to the touch, while maintaining a clean and unladen feel (natural feel).

[0015] In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0016] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be replaced therewith;

[0017] - the expression “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included;

[0018] - the term “keratin materials” denotes keratin fibres, and in particular the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes or the scalp;

[0019] - according to the present application, the term “keratin fibres” denotes human keratin fibres and more particularly the hair.Cationic inulin

[0020] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more inulin base polymers, functionalized with one or more cationic groups; these polymers may be referred to in the remainder of the present description as “cationic inulins” or “cationic inulin polymers”.

[0021] Inulins are polysaccharides (simple sugars of fructose type linked together) and can be produced naturally by many types of plants.

[0022] Inulins are polymers composed mainly of a chain of fructoses ending in a (2→1) bond linking an α-D-glucose to this chain. The fructose units in inulins are joined by a β(2→1) glycosidic bond.

[0023] Inulin can be represented by the following formula:

[0024] in which n generally ranges from 2 to 60.

[0025] The cationic group(s) borne by the inulin polymer may be cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to give cationic groups; advantageously, this or these groups are of quaternary ammonium type.

[0026] The cationic inulins according to the invention do not comprise any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to give anionic groups. In addition, they are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any Si-O units).

[0027] The cationic inulin according to the invention therefore bears one or more cationic groups, preferably of quaternary ammonium type, generally connected to the inulin polymer by one of its pendent oxygen atoms.

[0028] The cationic groups of quaternary ammonium type are advantageously of formula -O-X-N+R1R2R3, A-, in which:

[0029] O represents a pendent oxygen atom of the inulin polymer,

[0030] X is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of alkylene type, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group,

[0031] R1, R2, R3, which may be identical or different, are linear or branched hydrocarbon radicals comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; and

[0032] A is a cosmetically acceptable counterion.

[0033] Preferentially, R1 = R2 = R3 = methyl.

[0034] Preferentially, A is a halide, in particular a chloride.

[0035] Preferentially, X is a divalent hydroxyl radical, in particular a divalent hydroxypropyl (hydroxypropylene) radical, which is preferably linear.

[0036] The preferred cationic inulins according to the invention may be chosen from inulin polymers bearing quaternary ammonium cationic functions of formula: -O-X-N+(CH3)3, A-in which:

[0037] O represents a pendent oxygen atom of the inulin polymer,

[0038] X is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of alkylene type, comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, and

[0039] A is a halide, in particular a chloride.

[0040] A particularly preferred cationic inulin is represented by the following formula:

[0041] in which n generally ranges from 2 to 60.

[0042] Mention will most particularly be made of the cationic inulins chosen from the polymers bearing the INCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin.

[0043] Preferably, the cationic inulins according to the invention have a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) that may range from 500 to 30 000 daltons, better still ranging from 1000 to 15 000 daltons, even better still from 2000 to 8000 daltons.

[0044] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the cationic inulin(s) in a total content ranging from 0.02% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Specific anionic surfactants

[0045] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from olefin sulfonates, preferably from α-olefin sulfonates, even better still from linear α-olefin sulfonates, preferably comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 18 carbon atoms. Salified forms (salts thereof) are also included.

[0046] Olefin sulfonates are known compounds and are notably described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry or else in patent US8211850. These compounds are generally obtained by sulfonation of long-chain α-olefins.

[0047] The linear α-olefin sulfonates according to the invention generally comprise, in a known manner, a mixture of linear alkene sulfonates, notably of formula (A), optionally as a mixture with linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates, notably of formula (B).

[0048] The linear alkene sulfonates therefore correspond to formula (A):

[0049] R-CH2-CH=CH-(CH2)n-SO3M

[0050] in which:

[0051] - R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, even better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms;

[0052] - n is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4 and even better still n = 1;

[0053] - M being a cosmetically acceptable cation, notably chosen from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals; andnotably Na+or K+.

[0054] Preferably, R represents a linear alkyl radical comprising 8 to 14 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0055] Preferably, M is derived from an alkali metal, notably Na+or K+.

[0056] Preferably, the linear alkene sulfonates according to the invention are of formula:

[0057] in which:

[0058] - R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;

[0059] - M being a cosmetically acceptable cation, notably chosen from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals, and notably Na+or K+.

[0060] The linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates may be of formula (B):

[0061] R'-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-(CH2)n'-SO3M'

[0062] in which:

[0063] - R' is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, even better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms;

[0064] - n' is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, and even better still n' = 1;

[0065] - M' being a cosmetically acceptable cation, notably chosen from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals, and notably Na+or K+.

[0066] Preferably, R' represents a linear alkyl radical comprising 8 to 14 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0067] Preferably, M' is derived from an alkali metal, notably Na+or K+.

[0068] Preferably, the linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates are of formula:

[0069] in which:

[0070] - R' is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;

[0071] - M' being a cosmetically acceptable cation, notably chosen from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals, and notably Na+or K+.

[0072] Preferably, R and R' are identical.

[0073] Preferably, M and M' are identical.

[0074] Preferably, the olefin sulfonates according to the invention are chosen from linear α-olefin sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular the alkali metal salts thereof, notably the sodium salts thereof.

[0075] Commercial products that may notably be mentioned include those sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40A or Bio-Terge AS-40HA by the company Stepan, or Calsoft AOS-40 by the company Pilot Chemical, or else Nansa LSS38 / AV by the company Huntsman.

[0076] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the anionic surfactant(s) chosen from olefin sulfonates in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise the anionic surfactant(s) chosen from linear α-olefin sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably in the form of salts, notably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts,

[0078] in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Additional anionic surfactants

[0079] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additional anionic surfactants, different from the above olefin sulfonates.

[0080] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional anionic surfactants, notably one or more sulfate (or sulfate-based) anionic surfactants.

[0081] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

[0082] In the present description, a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to give a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

[0083] In a manner knownper se, anionic surfactants may comprise sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) groups (or functions), alone or as a mixture.

[0084] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “sulfate anionic surfactant” means an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3-), but not comprising a carboxylate function or a sulfonate function.

[0085] The sulfate anionic surfactants may thus be chosen, alone or as mixtures, from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be (poly)oxyalkylenated, notably (poly)oxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 20, or even from 1 to 10, ethylene oxide units.

[0086] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts.

[0087] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts,2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0088] Use is preferably made of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0089] Preferably, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0090] - alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl sulfates, and also the salts thereof;

[0091] - C6-C30alkyl ether sulfates, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and also the salts thereof;

[0092] said salts being chosen in particular from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.

[0093] Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl sulfates, and also the salts thereof, notably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts; even better still from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl sulfates; advantageously C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl sulfates; and notably alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of lauryl sulfate, such as sodium lauryl sulfate.

[0094] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more anionic surfactants chosen from sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) anionic surfactants. A mixture of these anionic surfactants may of course be used.

[0095] It is understood in the present description that:

[0096] - the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-), and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0097] - the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3–), and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions.

[0098] The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-).

[0099] They may be chosen from the following compounds: acyl glycinates, acyl lactylates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, acyl alaninates, acyl isethionates, alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-C30aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0100] Use may also be made of C6-C24alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and the salts thereof.

[0101] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may most particularly be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and the salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the AKYPO names.

[0102] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):

[0103] R1–(OC2H4)n–OCH2COOA (1)

[0104] in which:

[0105] - R1represents a linear or branched C6-C24alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C8-C9)alkylphenyl radical or an R2CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2denoting a linear or branched C9-C21alkyl or alkenyl radical;

[0106] preferably, R1is a C8-C20, preferably C8-C18, alkyl radical and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,

[0107] - n is an integer or decimal number (mean value) ranging from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10,

[0108] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

[0109] Use may also be made of mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds having different groups R1.

[0110] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:

[0111] - R1denotes a C12-C14alkyl, cocoyl, lauroyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,

[0112] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0113] - n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

[0114] Even more preferentially, use is made of compounds of formula (1) in which R1denotes a C12alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.

[0115] Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0116] - acyl glutamates, notably C6-C24, or even C12-C20, acyl glutamates, such as stearoyl glutamates and cocoyl glutamates, and in particular disodium cocoyl glutamate and disodium stearoyl glutamate;

[0117] - acyl alaninates, notably C6-C24, or even C12-C20, acyl alaninates, such as cocoyl alaninates, and in particular sodium cocoyl alaninate;

[0118] - acyl sarcosinates, notably C6-C24, or even C12-C20, acyl sarcosinates, such as palmitoyl sarcosinates, lauroyl sarcosinates and cocoyl sarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate;

[0119] - acyl lactylates, notably C12-C28, or even C14-C24, acyl lactylates, such as behenoyl lactylates and lauroyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate;

[0120] - C6-C24, or even C12-C20, acyl glycinates, such as cocoyl and lauroyl glycinates, and in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate and sodium lauroyl glycinate;

[0121] - (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, and notably (C12-C20)alkyl ether carboxylates;

[0122] - polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0123] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.

[0124] The additional sulfonate anionic surfactants, different from the above olefin sulfonates, that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3–).

[0125] They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, N-acyl taurates, acyl isethionates; alkyl sulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0126] Preferentially, the additional sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C6-C24)acyl isethionates, preferably (C12-C20)acyl isethionates, such as cocoyl and lauroyl isethionates, and in particular sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauroyl isethionate; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.

[0127] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention may range from 5% to 25% by weight, preferentially from 8% to 20% by weight, even better still from 10% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of additional anionic surfactants (different from olefin sulfonates) in the composition according to the invention may range from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 8% to 20% by weight, even better still from 10% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of sulfate anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention may range from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 8% to 20% by weight, even better still from 10% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0130] Even better still, the total content of sulfate anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0131] - alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl sulfates, and also the salts thereof;

[0132] - C6-C30alkyl ether sulfates, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and also the salts thereof;

[0133] said salts being chosen in particular from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts; in the composition according to the invention may range from 5% to 25% by weight, preferentially from 8% to 20% by weight, even better still from 10% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Amphoteric surfactants

[0134] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen from alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaines.

[0135] The term “alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaines” means alkylbetaines and alkylamidoalkylbetaines, and also mixtures thereof.

[0136] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any amphoteric surfactant other than those chosen from alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaines.

[0137] This or these surfactants may thus notably be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines.

[0138] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C10-C18)alkylbetaines and (C10-C18)alkylamido(C3-C6)alkylbetaines; better still chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C10-C16)alkylbetaines and (C10-C16)alkylamido(C3-C5)alkylbetaines; even better still chosen from cocobetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C10-C16)alkylamido(C3-C5)alkylbetaines, preferentially cocamidopropylbetaine.

[0140] Preferably, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) of alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaine type, in the composition according to the invention, may range from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] Preferably, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) chosen from (C10-C16)alkylamido(C3-C5)alkylbetaines, in the composition according to the invention, may range from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Nonionic surfactants

[0142] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more nonionic surfactants, notably such as those described in “Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178.

[0143] As examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

[0144] - oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols;

[0145] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C40alcohols, preferably comprising one or two C8-C30fatty chains;

[0146] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8-C30fatty acid amides;

[0147] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of polyethylene glycols;

[0148] - preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of sorbitol;

[0149] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of (poly)glycerol;

[0150] - C8-C30fatty acid esters of sucrose;

[0151] - (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides, (C8-C30)alkenyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated and which comprise from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucoside esters;

[0152] - saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils;

[0153] - condensates of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide.

[0154] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units. The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide ranges preferably from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100, better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges notably from 1 to 50, better still from 1 to 10.

[0155] Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise any oxypropylene units.

[0156] Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, notably from 2 to 100, better still from 2 to 50.

[0157] As examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants, use is preferably made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40alcohols, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.

[0158] Mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

[0159] Among the glycerolated alcohols, preference is more particularly given to using the C8to C10alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C10to C12alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.

[0160] As examples of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of (poly)glycerol, use is preferably made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated esters of C8-C30, better still C10-C24, acids comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.

[0161] The nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type may advantageously correspond to the formula R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:

[0162] - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical, the linear or branched alkyl radical of which comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0163] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0164] - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably glucose, fructose or galactose, even better still glucose;

[0165] - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, better still from 0 to 3, even better still 0;

[0166] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4, the mean degree of polymerization (v) more particularly being between 1 and 2.

[0167] The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of 1-4 type.

[0168] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.

[0169] The nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0170] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8to C40alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, notably at least one C8-C20, notably C10-C18, alkyl chain;

[0171] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of (poly)glycerol, notably monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate and / or glyceryl oleate;

[0172] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8to C30acids and of sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylenated, and

[0173] - (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.

[0174] Preferentially, the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0175] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of (poly)glycerol and

[0176] - (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.

[0177] Very preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of (poly)glycerol; better still from monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate and / or monoglyceryl oleate; even better still monoglyceryl oleate.

[0178] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the nonionic surfactant(s), when they are present, in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0179] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the nonionic surfactant(s) chosen, alone or as a mixture, from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of (poly)glycerol; better still from monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate and / or monoglyceryl oleate; even better still monoglyceryl oleate, when they are present, in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Cationic surfactants

[0180] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0181] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof, and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C8-C30, hydrocarbon chain. Said cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-O groups.

[0182] Preferably, the fatty amines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0183] As fatty amines, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0184] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0185] The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0186] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0187] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may most particularly be made of the amidoamines of formula RCONHR''N(R')2in which:

[0188] - Rrepresents a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;

[0189] - R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0190] - R', which may be identical or different, represent a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0191] Mention may in particular be made of the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0192] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0193] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not rule out the fact that they may quaternize in situ).

[0194] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0195] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0196] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from the amidoamines of formula RCONHR''N(R')2, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Other ingredients

[0197] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water or a mixture of water and of one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0198] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water, notably in a total content between 60% and 98% by weight, preferably between 65% and 95% by weight, preferentially between 70% and 90% by weight, even better still between 75% and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0199] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6, preferentially from 4 to 5.5.

[0200] Another subject of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment, preferably cleansing and / or washing, of keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising a step of applying a composition as defined previously to said keratin materials.

[0201] Preferably, a step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, is performed after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0202] A step of drying the keratin materials may be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, notably using a heating means such as a hairdryer.

[0203] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts are expressed as grams of active material (AM), unless otherwise mentioned.Example 1

[0204] A cosmetic composition A according to the invention and a comparative cosmetic composition B are prepared using the ingredients indicated in the table below.

[0205] CompositionA(invention)B(comparative)Sodium laureth sulfate13.513.5SODIUM C14-16 OLEFIN SULFONATE1.21.2COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE0.9-COCAMIDOPROPYL HYDROXYSULTAINE-0.9Hydroxypropyltrimonium inulin0.250.25Glyceryl oleate0.40.4BRASSICAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE0.30.3Glutamic acid0.10.1Sodium chloride0.10.1Preserving agents, fragrancesqsqsWaterqs 100qs 100

[0206] Compositions are obtained that may be used as a rinse-out shampoo, for washing the hair.A / Evaluation of the cosmetic performance

[0207] The cosmetic performance in terms of smoothness to the touch, suppleness and disentangling provided by compositions A and B is evaluated.

[0208] Each of compositions A and B was applied to locks of wet hair (5.4 g locks, AS20 sensitized) in a proportion of 0.3 g of composition per gram of lock. The locks were rinsed without any leave-on time. Evaluation on wet hair is then carried out.

[0209] The smoothness to the touch was evaluated as follows: touch evaluation of the uniformity of the hair from root to tip, by holding a lock of hair at the root and sliding it through the fingers as far as the tip; the more the feeling is uniform, the better the smoothness to the touch.

[0210] The suppleness was evaluated as follows: the evaluator takes handfuls of the hair and tries to fold it. The more easily the hair can be folded or bent, the more pliable it is, the better the suppleness.

[0211] The disentangling was evaluated as follows: the disentangling is evaluated using a comb that the evaluator slides from the root to the tip. The more easily the comb slides, the better the disentangling.

[0212] The smoothness to the touch, the suppleness and the disentangling are considered to be better when the score is positive, and to be worse when the score is negative.

[0213] A score of 0 was awarded to locks treated with comparative composition B, and a score ranging from -3 to +3 in increments of 0.5 was awarded to the locks treated with composition A. The comparative evaluation was carried out blind by 3 experts.

[0214] Each whole score corresponds to the following elements:

[0215] + / - 3: very large difference

[0216] + / - 2: large difference

[0217] + / - 1: moderate difference

[0218] 0: equivalent (no difference).

[0219] The following results are obtained (mean of 3 scores):

[0220] A(smooth)A(suppleness)A(disentangling)B(comparative)Expert 111.510Expert 20.5110Expert 31110Mean0.81.210Standard deviation0.30.300

[0221] It is found that composition A according to the invention leads to hair having better cosmetic properties, notably a greater smoothness to the touch, greater suppleness and easier disentangling, in comparison with comparative composition B.B / Evaluation of the rinsability performance

[0222] In order to evaluate the rinsability performance, three drops of artificial sebum were applied using a pipette to locks of hair (5.4 g, AS20 sensitized) and distributed over the whole length of the lock. The locks were then wetted and then wrung out.

[0223] 0.25 g of composition to be tested was then applied to the lock. The lock was then rinsed until the feeling when touching the lock no longer changed, that is to say when there was no more sebum on the lock.

[0224] The time required for rinsing each lock was compared to that obtained with a reference shampoo (Garnier Fructis Aloe Hydrabomb). The shorter the rinsing time, the easier the rinsing.

[0225] Each expert (3 experts) awarded a score corresponding to the rinsing times, ranging from -3 to +3, with an increment of 0.5, to the locks to be evaluated, using the same scoring scale as described previously. A score of 0 is awarded to the reference composition.

[0226] The score is positive if the rinsing time is shorter, the score is negative if the rinsing time is longer.

[0227] The following results are obtained (mean of 3 scores):

[0228] RinsabilityA (invention)B (comparative)ReferenceExpert 1+1-30Expert 2+1-2.50Expert 3+1.5-2.50Mean+1.2-2.70Standard deviation0.30.30

[0229] It is found that composition A according to the invention is much easier to rinse out than the comparative composition and the reference composition.

Claims

Cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising:- one or more cationic inulin polymers,- one or more anionic surfactants of olefin sulfonate type, and- one or more amphoteric surfactants of alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaine type.Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the cationic inulin bears one or more cationic groups of quaternary ammonium type, advantageously of formula -O-X-N+R1R2R3, A-, in which:O represents a pendent oxygen atom of the inulin polymer,X is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of alkylene type, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group,R1, R2, R3, which may be identical or different, are linear or branched hydrocarbon radicals comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; andA is a cosmetically acceptable counterion;in particular of formula -O-X-N+(CH3)3, A-in which:O represents a pendent oxygen atom of the inulin polymer,X is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of alkylene type, comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, andA is a halide, in particular a chloride.Composition according to either of the preceding claims, in which the cationic inulin is chosen from the polymers having the INCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the cationic inulin(s) in a total content ranging from 0.02% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the olefin sulfonate(s) are chosen from α-olefin sulfonates, better still from linear α-olefin sulfonates, preferably comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular the alkali metal salts thereof, notably the sodium salts thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the anionic surfactant(s) chosen from olefin sulfonates in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, also comprising one or more sulfate anionic surfactants; preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl sulfates, and also the salts thereof; C6-C30alkyl ether sulfates, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and also the salts thereof; said salts being chosen in particular from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts;preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl sulfates, and also the salts thereof, notably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts; even better still from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl sulfates; advantageously C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl sulfates; and notably alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of lauryl sulfate, such as sodium lauryl sulfate.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of anionic surfactants ranges from 5% to 25% by weight, preferentially from 8% to 20% by weight, even better still from 10% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaine(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines; better still, alone or as a mixture, from (C10-C18)alkylbetaines and (C10-C18)alkylamido(C3-C6)alkylbetaines; even better still, alone or as a mixture, from (C10-C16)alkylbetaines and (C10-C16)alkylamido(C3-C5)alkylbetaines; even better still from cocobetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of amphoteric surfactants of alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaine type ranges from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more nonionic surfactants, notably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8to C40alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, notably at least one C8-C20, notably C10-C18, alkyl chain;- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of (poly)glycerol, notably monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate and / or glyceryl oleate;- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8to C30acids and of sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylenated, and- (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; advantageously from amidoamines of formula RCONHR''N(R')2in which:- Rrepresents a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;- R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still 3 carbon atoms; and- R', which may be identical or different, represent a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water, notably in a total content between 60% and 98% by weight, preferably between 65% and 95% by weight, preferentially between 70% and 90% by weight, even better still between 75% and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Process for the cosmetic treatment, preferably cleansing and / or washing, of keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13 to said keratin materials.Process according to Claim 14, comprising a step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, after the step of applying the composition.

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