Ice-cream-shaped facial cleanser capable of effectively scavenging free radicals and preparation method of ice-cream-shaped facial cleanser

Abstract

The invention provides an ice cream-shaped facial cleanser capable of effectively scavenging free radicals and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the field of cosmetics. The facial cleanser comprises the following components: glycerol, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, lauryl sulfate TEA salt, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, hydrolyzed corn starch, lactic acid, walnut shell powder, apricot seed powder, hydrated silica and the like. The facial cleanser disclosed by the invention realizes the balance of cleaning, exfoliating and skin feeling. The hydrolyzed corn starch is added, so that the facial cleanser can moisturize and diminish inflammation, and the tightening feeling after the facial cleanser is used is reduced. Meanwhile, apricot seed powder is used as an intelligent carrier, and a hydroxy acid buffer salt system and a surface hydrophobic coating layer loaded on the apricot seed powder slowly release active ingredients through friction during use, so that cutin renewal is promoted, and pores are unblocked. Excessive sebum and related oxidation products in the pores can be removed in the cleaning process.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to an ice-cream-like cleansing cream capable of effectively removing free radicals and a preparation method thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] In the field of personal skin care, facial cleansing as the first and key step is always developing with the evolution of consumer demand and technical cognition. Among them, the scrubbing cleansing product with physical exfoliation function has occupied a certain market position since its advent because it can provide instant smooth skin feel. This kind of product can achieve the instant effect of deep cleaning and improving the appearance of skin quality by incorporating insoluble fine particles into the cleansing base and using the physical friction force during artificial massage to assist in peeling off the aging keratinocytes on the surface of the skin. The core technology of traditional scrubbing cleansing product relies on physical friction mechanism, and its early form often directly uses various natural or synthetic particles as abrasives. However, with the development of skin science, the market and research focus has shifted from pursuing strong physical friction to how to achieve a delicate balance between cleaning power and skin barrier protection. This change has prompted the industry to deeply reflect the limitations of traditional formulations and actively explore new generation of cleaning solutions that are more intelligent, more mild and more synergistic by deeply engineering natural materials to surpass the simple friction paradigm.

[0003] The efficacy and experience of traditional scrubbing cleansers are largely limited by their basic design concept. Conventional formulations often regard abrasive particles as a single-function physical friction medium, and their main technical considerations focus on the basic physical parameters of particle size, hardness, etc. in order to remove keratin by mechanical action. However, this relatively one-way mechanism gradually reveals its inherent challenges in practical application. On the one hand, if immediate and significant skin feel changes are pursued, particles or combinations with higher friction coefficients may be used, which may be burdensome to some skin types or at inappropriate use frequency; on the other hand, if physical friction efficiency is excessively reduced for gentleness, it may be difficult to meet consumer expectations for "thorough cleaning" and "skin renewal" in terms of sensory and psychological expectations. More importantly, there is a lack of dynamic and adjustable coordination between traditional physical scrubbing and the physiological process of keratinocyte renewal. The healthy renewal of the stratum corneum is a complex biological process involving hydration, enzymatic degradation, and cell shedding, and simple mechanical peeling cannot match it, making it difficult to achieve an optimal solution in terms of efficiency and safety. In addition, in terms of formulation technology, how to ensure that abrasive particles remain stably dispersed, avoid agglomeration and sedimentation in a complex surfactant system, and at the same time maintain the long-term stability of active ingredients (such as chemical exfoliating agents) in an aqueous environment, is also a common technical problem faced by traditional formulations. These challenges collectively point to an industry consensus: the next generation of scrubbing cleansing technology needs to achieve a transition from "physical friction elements" to "multi-functional intelligent care units". SUMMARY

[0004] A first object of the present invention is to propose a cleansing composition comprising, calculated in parts by mass: Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, ≥ 40 parts; EMAL TD, ≥ 10 parts; Sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, ≥ 5 parts; Cocamidopropyl betaine, ≥ 5 parts; Ziga® Suf SLFB 30, ≥ 1 part; Hydrolyzed corn starch, ≥ 1 part; PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, ≥ 0.5 parts; Walnut shell powder, ≥ 0.1 parts; Apricot seed powder, ≥ 0.3 parts; The D50 of the walnut shell powder is ≤ 150 μm, and the maximum particle size is ≤ 180 μm; The D50 of the apricot seed powder is ≤ 100 μm, and the maximum particle size is ≤ 125 μm; The apricot seed powder is loaded with a hydroxy acid active ingredient, which at least partially exists in the form of a buffer salt formed by the hydroxy acid and its basic neutralizing agent; The surface of the apricot seed powder comprises a hydrophobic coating layer.

[0005] Preferably, the alkaline neutralizing agent is an amino acid.

[0006] Preferably, the preparation method of the apricot seed powder comprises the following steps: providing apricot seed raw powder meeting particle size requirements; applying a buffer solution comprising a hydroxy acid and an alkaline neutralizing agent to the apricot seed raw powder by spraying so that the buffer solution is adsorbed; and then drying the apricot seed raw powder to obtain the apricot seed powder.

[0007] The buffer solution comprises at least the following components in mass parts: lactic acid, ≥ 12 parts; alkaline neutralizing agent, ≥ 6.5 parts; water, ≥ 30 parts; propylene glycol, ≥ 15 parts.

[0008] The surface hydrophobization treatment is that the surface of the apricot seed raw powder adsorbed with lactic acid is coated with silane.

[0009] The surface hydrophobization treatment is that, after the apricot seed raw powder adsorbed with lactic acid, a silane coating solution is sprayed on the surface of the apricot seed raw powder, and the obtained product is stirred and dried. The silane coating solution is an ethanol solution of silane, and the mass percentage concentration of silane in the silane coating solution is at least 10 wt%.

[0010] A second object of the present application is to provide a cleansing milk comprising the aforementioned cleansing composition, which comprises the following components in mass parts: glycerin, ≥ 15 parts; disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, ≥ 40 parts; EMAL TD, ≥ 10 parts; sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, ≥ 5 parts; cocamidopropyl betaine, ≥ 5 parts; lauric acid, ≥ 3 parts; sodium chloride, ≥ 3 parts; propylene glycol, ≥ 2 parts; Ziga® Suf SLFB 30, ≥ 1 part; hydrolyzed corn starch, ≥ 1 part; PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, ≥ 0.5 part; phenoxyethanol, ≥ 0.5 part; sodium polyacrylate, ≥ 0.5 part; sodium hydroxide, ≥ 0.35 part; apricot seed powder, ≥ 0.3 part; hydrous silicate, ≥ 0.3 part; Walnut shell powder, ≥0.1 parts; Lactic acid, ≥0.15 parts; Complex amino acids, ≥0.1 parts; The apricot kernel powder is loaded with a hydroxy acid active ingredient, which is at least partially present in the form of a buffer salt of the hydroxy acid with its alkaline neutralizing agent; The surface of the apricot kernel powder comprises a hydrophobic coating layer.

[0011] The preparation method of the aforementioned facial cleanser, comprising the steps of: S1: mix glycerin, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl hydroxypropyl sulfonate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and water to obtain phase A; dissolve sodium hydroxide in water as phase B; take lauric acid as phase C; mix sodium polyacrylate and propylene glycol as phase D; mix cocamidopropyl betaine and lactic acid as phase E; and take the remaining ingredients as phase F; S2: heat phase A to ≥80℃, and sequentially add phase B, phase C, and phase D to stir uniformly; cool to ≥50℃, add phase E to stir uniformly; continue to cool to ≤45℃, add phase F to stir uniformly, to obtain the facial cleanser.

[0012] A third object of the present application is to provide the use of the aforementioned facial cleanser in the preparation of cosmetics, which are wash-off type cleaning cosmetics; generally facial cleansers, facial oils, makeup removers, and the like, but not excluding the use in cleaning products for body parts, such as shampoo, hand sanitizer, body wash, and the like.

[0013] The present application is a comprehensive facial cleansing solution involving mild cleaning, physical and chemical exfoliation, slow-release technology, and stability optimization. The core lies in achieving efficient cleaning and exfoliation while minimizing irritation and maintaining active stability through innovative formula design and raw material processing technology.

[0014] The present application has a dual mild cleaning system: Primary cleaning agent: sodium lauryl sulfosuccinate (mild sulfonate) and sodium lauryl hydroxypropyl sulfonate (classic mild surfactant) are used as the main cleaning agent, and cocamidopropyl betaine (amphoteric surfactant, foam booster, and irritation reducer) is used as the auxiliary cleaning agent. This combination has moderate cleaning power, low irritation to the skin and eyes, and is suitable for sensitive skin or daily use.

[0015] Auxiliary cleaning / conditioning agent: PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate is a mild non-ionic emulsifier / solubilizer that helps improve system stability and skin feel. Ziga Suf SLFB 30 (a product of GIGA FINE CHEMICAL, composed of sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate and PPG-10 sorbitol; a surfactant and foam modifier) further optimizes foam quality and after-wash feel.

[0016] Synergistic exfoliation mechanism: Physical exfoliation: Walnut shell powder and apricot seed powder are used as natural abrasives. By strictly controlling their particle size (D50 and maximum particle size), the polishing effect is ensured to be uniform and delicate, avoiding skin scratches caused by excessively large or sharp particles.

[0017] Chemical exfoliation: Apricot seed powder is loaded with hydroxy acid (such as lactic acid) buffer salt. This is one of the core innovations of the scheme, achieving the "solidification" and "slow release" of chemical exfoliation function.

[0018] One of the great advantages of the present invention is the innovative active delivery and stabilization system: The present invention loads active ingredients on porous, adsorptive apricot seed powder, achieving a transition from liquid formula to solid additive. This solves the problem of instability (easy degradation, easy irritation) of liquid acid in aqueous formula and difficulty in compatibility with other ingredients.

[0019] Silanization treatment is performed on the surface of the apricot seed powder loaded with active substances, forming a hydrophobic layer. Its core principle and advantage lies in that during storage, the hydrophobic layer can block water, preventing the loaded buffer salt from being hydrolyzed prematurely or the active ingredients from migrating into the formula matrix, greatly improving the storage stability of the active substances.

[0020] In use, through physical friction and the emulsifying effect of surfactants, the hydrophobic layer is destroyed, and the active substances are released, achieving the intelligent effect of "release only when used".

[0021] Overall, the cleansing composition of the present invention achieves a balance of cleaning, exfoliation and skin feel. The formula introduces trace amounts of walnut shell powder and apricot seed powder with strictly controlled particle size as physical abrasives to gently remove the surface of old and worn-out keratin, aiming to avoid damaging the skin barrier. The present invention adds hydrolyzed corn starch, which can moisturize and anti-inflammatory, reducing the tightness after using facial cleanser; at the same time, apricot seed powder is used as an intelligent carrier, its loaded hydroxy acid buffer salt system and surface hydrophobic coating layer ensure storage stability. In use, through friction, the active ingredients are slowly released, cooperating with physical scrubbing to promote keratinocyte turnover and unblock pores. This synergistic effect is believed to help remove excess sebum and related oxidation products in the pores during cleaning, providing more comprehensive cleaning and care for the skin. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0022] In order to better understand the present invention, the following further describes the present invention in conjunction with specific serial numbers, wherein the terms used in the serial numbers are used to describe specific specific embodiments, and do not constitute a limitation on the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0023] In the detailed description, the experimental methods used are conventional methods unless otherwise specified, and the materials, reagents, etc. used are commercially available unless otherwise specified.

[0024] Unless otherwise specified, the percentages, % and the like in the detailed description are by mass percentage.

[0025] The walnut shell powder used in the present application has an INCI name of Juglans Regia Shell Powder, a D50≤150μm, and a maximum particle size≤180μm. The apricot seed crude powder used in the present application is obtained after grinding apricot (Prunus Armeniaca) seeds, has a D50≤100μm, and a maximum particle size≤125μm.

[0026] The Ziga® Suf SLFB 30 used in the present application is a product of GIGA FINE CHEMICAL Co., Ltd., and has a composition of sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate and PPG-10 sorbitol.

[0027] The EMAL TD used in the present application is a product of Kao Corporation of Japan, and contains TEA lauryl sulfate, water, and a mixture of methyl chloroisothiazolinone and methyl isothiazolinone with magnesium chloride and magnesium nitrate; and is used as a surfactant in the present application.

[0028] The composite amino acid used in the present application is from Xi'an Selis Biological Co., Ltd., and specifically includes proline, glycine, alanine, valine, methionine, isoleucine, leucine, tyrosine, phenylalanine, lysine, histidine, arginine, aspartic acid, threonine, serine, and glutamic acid.

[0029] Example 1 Preparation of apricot seed powder-loaded The following steps are included: S1, take apricot seed crude powder, dry at 60°C for 2 hours for standby use.

[0030] S2, prepare a buffer solution according to the following mass parts, lactic acid, 12 parts; L-arginine, 6.5 parts; deionized water, 30 parts; propylene glycol, 15 parts; The preparation method of the buffer solution is as follows: add deionized water and propylene glycol in a stirring container and stir; slowly add lactic acid and stir until uniform; under continuous stirring, add the selected amino acid until completely dissolved, forming a uniform and transparent buffer salt solution.

[0031] Check the pH value within 3.5-4.2, if it is out of range, discard the solution and reconfigure.

[0032] S3, the weighed apricot seed powder is added into the fluidized bed, and the equipment is started to make the powder in a fluidized state.

[0033] The prepared buffer solution is uniformly sprayed onto the surface of the flowing powder through an atomizing nozzle.

[0034] The temperature of the inlet hot air is 60-70°C, and the temperature of the material is ≤45°C, so that the solution starts to evaporate water instantaneously upon contacting the powder, and the active ingredient is attached to the surface and pores of the powder, thereby avoiding caking.

[0035] After the spraying is completed, the fluidized drying is continued at 60-65°C for 15 minutes until the water content of the powder is less than 5%. The apricot seed powder intermediate loaded with lactic acid-amino acid buffer salt is obtained.

[0036] S4, hexadecyltrimethoxysilane is dissolved in anhydrous ethanol to prepare a coating solution with a concentration of 15wt%; The apricot seed powder intermediate is transferred to a sealed container with stirring, and the stirring is continued at 40rpm under the condition of 20-25°C. The silane ethanol solution is slowly and uniformly sprayed onto the surface of the apricot seed powder intermediate using a spraying device.

[0037] After the spraying is completed, the stirring is continued for 60 minutes to ensure that the reaction is fully carried out.

[0038] The coated powder is transferred to a drying tray and solidified and dried in an oven at 80-90°C for 1 hour to completely remove the ethanol and complete the condensation reaction of the silane to form a stable hydrophobic coating layer.

[0039] S5, the dried powder is passed through a 125μm sieve to obtain the loaded apricot seed powder.

[0040] Example 2 Preparation of lactic acid apricot seed powder The difference from Example 1 is that after step S3, step S4 is skipped and step S5 is performed; the lactic acid apricot seed powder is obtained.

[0041] Example 3 Preparation of hydrophobic apricot seed powder The difference from Example 1 is that after step S1, steps S2 and S3 are skipped, and steps S4 and S5 are performed; the difference from Example 1 is that after step S3, step S4 is skipped and step S5 is performed; the lactic acid apricot seed powder is obtained.

[0042] The apricot seed powders prepared in Examples 1-3 are subjected to water drop contact angle test by tabletting-static dropping method; the test environment is 25±1°C, and the relative humidity is 50±5%; the results are as follows: Example 1 Loaded apricot seed powder: 108° Example 2 Lactic acid apricot seed powder: the penetration speed is too fast, and the contact angle cannot be measured.

[0043] Example 3 Hydrophobic apricot seed powder: 122° Comparative apricot seed raw powder: too fast penetration, contact angle cannot be measured.

[0044] Example 4 Preparation of cleansing milk The steps include: S1. Weigh each raw material according to Table 1 below by mass fraction; S2: Warm phase A to 80°C, add B phase, C phase and D phase in turn and stir evenly; cool to 50°C, add E phase and stir evenly; continue to cool to 45°C, add F phase and stir evenly to obtain the cleansing milk.

[0045] Table 1 Raw material formula table

[0046] Table 1 (continued) Raw material formula table

[0047] Example 5 Performance test The performance of each serial number of cleansing milk prepared in Example 4 was tested, (1) Stability experiment By placing the sample at an elevated temperature, the chemical reactions that can occur in the formula (such as lactic acid migration, hydrolysis, ingredient interaction) are accelerated, so as to predict its long-term storage stability in a short time. Abnormal changes in pH value are an important signal of formula instability.

[0048] Sample preparation Sub-packing: all serial numbers of cleansing milk prepared in Example 4 were respectively packed into at least 4 small sample bottles of the same specification and good sealing.

[0049] Initial pH: immediately measure the initial pH value of all samples at room temperature (25°C) before starting the accelerated test, and record it as "day 0" data.

[0050] Cyclic accelerated test was adopted, with a cycle every 24h, -10±1°C for the first 12h and 45±1°C for the last 12h, for 28 days, and the pH value was detected on the 1st, 3rd, 7th, 14th and 28th day, with an accuracy of 0.01.

[0051] The results are as follows in Table 2: Table 2 pH value test results

[0052] As can be seen from Table 2, the apricot kernel powder used in No. 2 also carries lactic acid, but due to the lack of protection of the hydrophobic layer, the lactic acid is rapidly released, resulting in a significant decrease in pH; while other examples do not have this problem; No. 7 has a lower pH value than other numbers due to the addition of a certain amount of free lactic acid; but except for No. 2, the pH values of the cleansing creams of other numbers show a stable trend; the numerical change is within the measurement error range.

[0053] (2) Human skin patch test Take the cleansing cream prepared in Example 4 No. 1-8, respectively, take 24 volunteers as the object, place the test object 0.020-0.025 ml in the patch tester, apply the low-sensitization adhesive tape to the curved side of the forearm of the test subject, remove the test object after 24 hours, and observe the skin reaction at 0.5, 24 and 48 hours after removal, respectively. According to the skin reaction grading standard in the "Cosmetic Safety Technology Standard" (2015 edition), record the results.

[0054] The identification standard of skin irritation test is as follows: Reaction degree: score level: skin reaction -: 0: negative reaction.

[0055] ±: 1: suspicious reaction, only weak erythema.

[0056] +: 2: weak positive reaction (erythema reaction); erythema, infiltration, edema, and papules may be present.

[0057] ++: 3: strong positive reaction (vesicle reaction); erythema, infiltration, edema, papules, and vesicle reaction may exceed the test area.

[0058] +++: 4: very strong positive reaction (fusion vesicle reaction); obvious erythema, severe infiltration, edema, and fusion vesicles; the reaction exceeds the test area.

[0059] The results of the cleansing cream of the said number at all times are negative reactions.

[0060] (3) Scrubbing effect test The weight loss method is used to measure the scrubbing ability of each cleansing cream: simulate the elasticity and mechanical properties of the skin stratum corneum, and repeatedly rub the scrubbing particles on the surface of the film under specified conditions, and take the mass loss (mg) of the film before and after rubbing as the core quantitative index to objectively compare the physical exfoliation ability of different formulations.

[0061] Instruments and materials Core substrate: standard polyurethane test film, Shore A hardness 80A, thickness 0.5 mm.

[0062] Measuring instrument: analytical balance, accuracy 0.1 mg.

[0063] Friction device: Linear Reciprocating Friction Tester Friction head: Standard friction head, wrapped with standard friction cloth (cotton muslin) at the end, new cloth for each test.

[0064] Test procedure: Procedure S1 Environmental equilibration: Before testing, equilibrate the film, cleanser sample in a constant temperature and humidity environment (20+1°C, 45+5% RH) for 24 hours.

[0065] S2 Film preparation: Cut the film into a 30 mm x 80 mm rectangular test piece. Wipe the surface with anhydrous ethanol and dry.

[0066] S3 Initial weighing: Place the test piece on a balance, weigh and record the mass M0 (unit: mg).

[0067] S4 Sample application: Using a precision syringe or weighing method, evenly apply 0.100±0.005 g of the scrub cleanser to be tested in the central 20m x 40 mm area of the test piece.

[0068] S5 Installation and friction: Fix the coated sample test piece on the tester platform. Align the friction head wrapped with friction cloth vertically to the sample area. Set the parameters: Load: 200g Stroke: 30 mm Speed: 30 times / minute (one way and one return is 1 time) Cycle: 50 times.

[0069] S6 Rinse and dry: After the end of friction, immediately rinse the test piece under 25°C flowing deionized water for 10 seconds at a fixed angle and height (such as 10 cm) to remove residues. Place the test piece in a dryer to dry for 2 hours to a constant weight.

[0070] S7 Final weighing: Take out the dried test piece, weigh again, and record the mass M1 (unit: mg) S8 Calculate the wear amount: Calculate the wear amount according to ΔM = M0 - M1 (unit: mg), the results are as follows: Serial No. 1: 1.8 mg Serial No. 2: 1.9 mg Serial No. 3: 1.8 mg Serial No. 4: 1.8 mg Serial No. 5: 3.4 mg Serial No. 6: 1.1 mg Serial No. 7: 2.0 mg Serial No. 8: 2.9 mg From the results, it can be seen that the amount of sanding is only related to the addition amount of apricot seed powder and walnut shell powder; the more the addition amount of walnut shell powder, the higher the sanding amount; and it is irrelevant to whether the apricot seed powder is coated with a silane hydrophobic layer and whether it is loaded with lactic acid.

[0071] (4) Propionibacterium acnes bacteriostatic test According to WS / T 650-2019, the bacteriostatic ring test was adopted. The 24h fresh slant culture of P. acnes was washed with PBS, diluted to 5.0x10 5 CFU / mL-5.0x10 6 CFU / mL standby.

[0072] Test group: facial cleanser with serial numbers 1-8 prepared in Example 4.

[0073] Preparation of bacteriostatic discs: cut filter paper discs with a diameter of 5mm and a thickness of not more than 4mm, and immerse 4 discs in 10mL of sample solution.

[0074] Preparation of negative control sample discs: take samples of the same material and make discs (blocks) of the same size as the test group, and immerse them in sterile water.

[0075] Use a sterile cotton swab to dip 5.0x10 5 CFU / mL-5.0x10 6 CFU / mL P. acnes suspension, and evenly smear the surface of the appropriate culture medium plate 3 times. Each time, rotate the plate by 60°, and finally smear the cotton swab around the edge of the plate. Cover the plate and dry it at room temperature for 5min. Place 1 bacterized plate for each test, and place 4 test sample discs, 1 negative control sample disc, and a total of 5 discs on each plate. Use sterile tweezers to place the sample discs on the plate surface, place the negative control sample disc at the center of the plate, and place the test sample discs around the plate. After placing, use sterile tweezers to press the discs tightly against the plate surface. The centers of the discs should be separated by more than 25mm, and the discs should be separated from the edge of the plate by more than 15mm. Cover the plate and incubate it at 36℃±1℃ for 16h-18h, then observe the results. Repeat the test 3 times. Use a vernier caliper to measure the diameter of the bacteriostatic ring (including the disc) and record the results. When measuring the diameter of the bacteriostatic ring, select a uniform and completely sterile growth bacteriostatic ring, and measure the diameter with the outer edge of the bacteriostatic ring as the boundary.

[0076] The negative control sample disc should not produce a bacteriostatic ring. If the diameter of the bacteriostatic ring of the test sample is >7mm, it is considered to have bacteriostatic effect. If the diameter of the bacteriostatic ring is ≤7mm, it is considered to have no bacteriostatic effect. If the test is repeated 3 times and all have bacteriostatic effect, it is considered to be qualified. The specific results are shown in Table 3.

[0077] Table 3 Bacteriostatic test results No. Inhibition zone size / mm 1 18.6 2 18.8 3 16.5 4 15.8 5 15.6 6 19.1 7 19.2 8 17.4 From Table 3, the antibacterial results are related to the type and amount of apricot seed powder. When the apricot seed powder is loaded with lactic acid, the antibacterial effect is enhanced; when the surface of the apricot seed powder is coated with a silane hydrophobic layer, the antibacterial effect is slightly enhanced but not as high as the degree of enhancement when loaded with lactic acid. When the apricot seed powder is loaded with lactic acid, the antibacterial effect is at the same level as that of additional free lactic acid (compare No. 1 and No. 7).

[0078] (5) Acne removal ability test Test object: facial cleanser of No. 1-8 prepared in Example 4 Control: self before and after control; Test subject: 5 people in each group, aged 18-45, healthy men or women, in good general health, without important systemic diseases. There are more than 2 acne on the forehead, and more than 3 closed pores. No hormone drugs and immunosuppressants have been used in the past month.

[0079] Test area: forehead.

[0080] Instrument measuring device: skin pattern analyzer Antera 3D.

[0081] Test environment: temperature: 20-22℃, humidity: 40-60%, and real-time dynamic monitoring is carried out.

[0082] Purpose and principle of test: 40 subjects (5 in each group) are recruited to use the test sample continuously for 28 days. The improvement grade of acne lesions is evaluated by subjective evaluation and doctor evaluation. The forehead of the subjects is collected and analyzed by Antera 3D to compare the changes of each index before and after use, and to judge the acne removal effect of the product.

[0083] Preparation before test: The test site cannot use any product on the test day. Before the test, the subjects need to sit in the human efficacy evaluation room (temperature: 20-22℃, humidity: 40-60%) for 30 min, and cannot drink water and beverages during this period. The subjects remain relaxed; the subjects are given test instructions before the test, and sign the informed consent form.

[0084] Product use method: When washing the face, replace the usual facial cleansing product with an appropriate amount of test product, gently rub the face, and then wash it off; the residence time on the face is within 30-60s; once a day, for 28 consecutive days. During the test period, the subjects are prohibited from using acne-removing, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial preparations; the subjects are prohibited from applying, injecting, orally taking or other forms of ingesting preparations that affect the acne removal test; the subjects mainly engage in indoor activities, and avoid long-term exposure to outdoor light.

[0085] Measurement method: After resting for 30 minutes in the human efficacy evaluation room, the forehead area of the subject was photographed using an Antera 3D skin image analyzer, and the average volume of acne in the test area was obtained by software analysis, which was taken as the baseline value (D0). Then the product was distributed and the use method was guided. The subjects returned 28 days after using the product (D 28 ) and the same index detection was performed.

[0086] The results are shown in Table 4.

[0087] Table 4 Acne removal ability test No. [CDATA[Mean volume of D0 acne]] [CATALOGUE] D 28 Mean Acne Volume Volume reduction rate 1 6.71 2.44 63.64% 2 6.24 2.38 61.86% 3 4.89 2.67 45.40% 4 5.63 2.96 47.42% 5 4.98 2.58 48.19% 6 5.27 2.18 58.63% 7 6.02 2.71 54.98% 8 5.84 3.12 46.58% From the results of the acne removal ability test in Table 4, combined with the stability experiment (pH value change), the scrubbing effect test, and the propionibacterium acnes bacteriostatic test results, the following conclusions can be drawn: The acne removal effect of the loaded apricot seed powder in sequence No. 1 is the best, and the core reason lies in that the loaded apricot seed powder realizes precise and long-lasting release of lactic acid on the skin surface through the double structure design of "lactic acid loading-hydrophobic coating", while taking into account the synergistic effect of formula stability and bacteriostatic activity, which is particularly significant in comparison with sequence No. 7 and sequence No. 2.

[0088] Compared with sequence No. 7 (ordinary apricot seed powder + free lactic acid), sequence No. 1 uses a lactic acid-amino acid buffer salt system to pre-load lactic acid on the surface and pores of apricot seed powder, and then forms a "slow-release capsule" structure through a hydrophobic coating layer of hexadecyl trimethoxysilane. The free lactic acid in sequence No. 7 is easy to migrate and diffuse in the cleansing cream formula, and part of it is quickly lost during the washing process, and cannot fully act on the acne site; while the loaded structure of sequence No. 1 locks the lactic acid with the hydrophobic layer, which is gradually released by physical friction of the scrubbing particles when contacting the skin, prolonging the residence time of lactic acid on the skin surface, and the buffer salt system maintains the pH stability of lactic acid during action, avoiding the problem of excessive local pH fluctuation caused by free lactic acid. At the same time, the loaded apricot seed powder in sequence No. 1 retains the physical scrubbing effect of apricot seed powder itself, forming a synergy with the bacteriostatic activity of lactic acid, which can not only remove keratin and unclog pores through friction, but also allow lactic acid to continuously act on propionibacterium acnes. The ordinary apricot seed powder in sequence No. 7 has no hydrophobic coating, and lactic acid is easy to interact with other ingredients in the formula, so the bacteriostatic efficiency cannot be fully exerted, therefore the acne volume reduction rate of sequence No. 1 (63.64%) is significantly higher than that of sequence No. 7 (54.98%).

[0089] Compared with No. 2 (lactic acid apricot seed powder), the key advantage of No. 1 is the formula stability and active ingredient retention brought by the hydrophobic coating layer. The lactic acid apricot seed powder of No. 2 only loads lactic acid without hydrophobic coating, and the contact angle test shows that the powder is easy to be infiltrated by water, resulting in rapid free release of lactic acid in the cleansing cream formula. As can be seen from the stability test results, the pH value of No. 2 decreases significantly in the accelerated test, indicating that lactic acid has migrated and lost during storage, resulting in insufficient effective ingredient concentration during use; while the hydrophobic coating layer (contact angle 108°) of No. 1 effectively prevents the premature release of lactic acid in the formula, so that lactic acid remains stable during storage and can precisely act on the acne site during use. In addition, the rapid free release of lactic acid of No. 2 may also result in excessive local lactic acid concentration, although the short-term bacteriostatic effect (bacteriostatic circle 18.8 mm) is close to that of No. 1 (18.6 mm), but long-term use may affect the skin barrier function due to unstable pH, which is not conducive to acne repair; while the sustained-release structure of No. 1 ensures the continuous exertion of bacteriostatic activity and avoids the excessive release of lactic acid, which stimulates the skin, ultimately achieving a higher acne volume reduction rate (63.64% vs 61.86%).

[0090] Compared with other numbers, No. 3 (hydrophobic apricot seed powder) relies only on the hydrophobic structure to improve the dispersibility of the powder in the formula due to the lack of lactic acid loading, but lacks the bacteriostatic effect of lactic acid, and the acne-removing effect is limited (volume reduction rate 45.40%); No. 4 (ordinary apricot seed powder) has neither lactic acid loading nor hydrophobic coating, and has the weakest bacteriostatic activity (bacteriostatic circle 15.8 mm) and the worst acne-removing effect (volume reduction rate 47.42%); No. 5, 6, 8 either adjust the amount of abrasive particles added or lack the synergistic design of loading-coating in the ingredient combination, so their bacteriostatic activity and ingredient stability are not as good as No. 1, so their acne-removing effects cannot surpass No. 1. In summary, the loaded apricot seed powder of No. 1 solves the core problems of free lactic acid loss and lactic acid apricot seed powder release through the structural innovation of "loading-locking-hydrophobic sustained-release", making the three functions of physical scrubbing, sustained bacteriostasis, and stable release form an optimal synergy, and ultimately achieving the best acne-removing effect.

[0091] From the comparison of the experimental results of (4) Propionibacterium acnes bacteriostatic test and (5) acne-removing ability test, it can be seen that the bacteriostatic circle of No. 1 is smaller than that of No. 2, 6, 7, but the acne-removing effect on the human face is better; the reason is that: in vitro bacteriostasis only evaluates the instantaneous inhibition ability of a single bacterium, while skin acne removal is the result of the coupling of "sustained bacteriostasis, formula stability, physical-chemical synergy, and skin compatibility".

[0092] The lactic acid in No. 2 (lactic acid apricot kernel powder) is not bound by the hydrophobic layer, and free lactic acid exists in No. 7 (apricot kernel powder + free lactic acid), and the amount of apricot kernel powder loaded in No. 6 is twice that of No. 1. These three cases all result in more rapidly migratable lactic acid molecules diffusing into the culture medium under experimental conditions, thereby producing more significant bacteriostatic rings.

[0093] However, human acne-removing efficacy testing is a more complex process, and the results depend on the comprehensive performance of the formula under actual use conditions, not just the instantaneous bacteriostatic strength. Cleanser stays on the face for a very short time (30-60 seconds) and is then rinsed off. In this scenario, the key factor determining long-term effectiveness changes to whether the active ingredient can effectively remain at the skin action site after rinsing and maintain sufficient action time and stability.

[0094] Looking at No. 2 (lactic acid apricot kernel powder): its bacteriostatic ring (18.8 mm) is slightly larger than that of No. 1 (18.6 mm), and the core reason is that the lactic acid apricot kernel powder has no hydrophobic coating layer (contact angle test shows that the powder quickly penetrates water), and in vitro tests, the lactic acid loaded on the surface of the powder can quickly free itself into the culture medium, forming a local high-concentration lactic acid environment, and the inhibition of Propionibacterium acnes is more direct and instantaneous. The strength is higher. However, in the actual acne-removing scenario, this structural defect is exposed: the lack of hydrophobic layer protection leads to a large amount of lactic acid being released (the pH of No. 2 in the stability test decreases from 5.43 to 4.94) during the storage of the cleanser. Part of the active ingredient has been lost before use; at the same time, the lactic acid that is not locked can be easily washed away by flowing water and cannot form a sustained effective concentration on the skin surface (especially in the pores). More importantly, the local pH fluctuation caused by the rapid release of lactic acid may slightly affect the skin barrier function, which is not conducive to the repair of acne lesions, so although the in vitro bacteriostatic ring is slightly larger, the actual acne-removing effect (volume reduction rate 61.86%) is not as good as No. 1.

[0095] Reanalysis No. 6: Its inhibition zone (19.1 mm) is larger than No. 1, the core is the apricot seed powder load, which is much larger than the addition amount of No. 1 (and the total amount of abrasive particles is higher than No. 1), the total load of lactic acid is higher, the concentration of active ingredients released in vitro test is naturally higher, and the antibacterial strength is stronger. But the acne-removing effect is not simply dependent on the total amount of antibacterial ingredients, but also needs to consider skin tolerance and action accuracy: excessive load particles may cause the local friction intensity of the skin to be too small during scrubbing, which may lead to a failure to play a role, or the total amount of lactic acid release exceeds the skin tolerance range, although it does not cause obvious irritation (patch test is negative), but long-term use may slightly affect the balance of the skin microenvironment; at the same time, a higher lactic acid concentration is more likely to interact weakly with other ingredients in the formula, reducing the bioavailability of active ingredients, so its acne-removing effect (58.63%) is lower than No. 1 - this shows that "antibacterial strength" and "acne-removing effect" are not linearly positively correlated, and excessive active ingredients may reduce the actual efficacy due to tolerance or compatibility problems.

[0096] No. 7 (ordinary apricot seed powder + 0.45% free lactic acid) has the largest inhibition zone (19.2 mm), because it adds a higher concentration of free lactic acid (0.45%, No. 1 contains only 0.15% free lactic acid + 0.3% loaded lactic acid), free lactic acid can quickly diffuse into the culture medium in vitro, and has a direct and strong inhibitory effect on Propionibacterium acnes. But the inherent defects of free lactic acid make it unable to be converted into a better acne-removing effect: on the one hand, free lactic acid has poor stability in the formula, is easy to migrate, hydrolyze or be washed away, the effective time of actually acting on the skin is extremely short (similar to "instant impact" rather than "continuous inhibition"), and it cannot inhibit the continuous proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes; on the other hand, high concentration of free lactic acid leads to low pH value of the formula, although it does not cause irritation, but long-term use may affect the normal metabolism of the stratum corneum, which is not conducive to the repair after pore unblocking; in addition, ordinary apricot seed powder has no hydrophobic coating, and only removes keratin during physical scrubbing, which cannot lock lactic acid, resulting in a disconnection between "physical keratin removal" and "chemical inhibition", and lacks the synergistic effect of No. 1, and finally the acne-removing effect (54.98%) is much lower than No. 1.

[0097] The core advantage of No. 1 is that it perfectly solves the shortcomings of the first three through the "lactic acid loading-hydrophobic coating" structure, and realizes the conversion from "in vitro moderate inhibition" to "in vivo high acne-removing effect". In comparison, although No. 2, 6 and 7 exhibit higher diffusible lactic acid concentration in the in vitro model, their active ingredients are more likely to be directly removed in the washing step in actual use, making it difficult to form an effective local residual and continuous action mode. Therefore, the "instant antibacterial potential" they exhibit cannot be effectively converted into "long-term acne-removing efficacy".

[0098] The above detailed description is a specific description of one of the possible embodiments of the present application, which is not used to limit the patent scope of the present application, and any equivalent implementation or change made without departing from the present application shall be included in the scope of the technical solutions of the present application.

Claims

1. A cleansing composition characterized in that, By mass parts, the following ingredients are included: Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, ≥ 40 parts; EMAL TD, ≥ 10 parts; Sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, ≥ 5 parts; Cocamidopropyl betaine, ≥ 5 parts; Ziga® Suf SLFB 30, ≥ 1 part; Hydrolyzed corn starch, ≥ 1 part; PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, ≥ 0.5 part; Juglans regia shell powder, ≥ 0.1 part; Prunus armeniaca seed powder, ≥ 0.3 part; The D50 of the juglans regia shell powder is ≤ 150 μm, and the maximum particle size is ≤ 180 μm; The D50 of the prunus armeniaca seed powder is ≤ 100 μm, and the maximum particle size is ≤ 125 μm; The prunus armeniaca seed powder is loaded with a hydroxy acid active ingredient, which is at least partially in the form of a buffer salt formed by the hydroxy acid and its basic neutralizing agent; The surface of the prunus armeniaca seed powder comprises a hydrophobic coating layer.

2. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein The basic neutralizing agent is an amino acid.

3. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein The preparation method of the prunus armeniaca seed powder is as follows: a prunus armeniaca seed raw powder meeting the particle size requirement is prepared; a buffer solution containing a hydroxy acid and a basic neutralizing agent is sprayed onto the prunus armeniaca seed raw powder so that the buffer solution is adsorbed; and then the prunus armeniaca seed raw powder is dried and subjected to surface hydrophobization treatment to obtain the prunus armeniaca seed powder.

4. The cleansing composition according to claim 3, wherein The buffer solution contains at least the following ingredients by mass parts: Lactic acid, ≥ 12 parts; Basic neutralizing agent, ≥ 6.5 parts; Water, ≥ 30 parts; Propylene glycol, ≥ 15 parts.

5. The cleansing composition according to claim 3, wherein The surface hydrophobization treatment is that the surface of the prunus armeniaca seed raw powder adsorbed with lactic acid is coated with silane.

6. The cleansing composition according to claim 5, wherein The surface hydrophobization treatment is that, after the prunus armeniaca seed raw powder is adsorbed with lactic acid, a silane coating solution is sprayed onto the surface of the prunus armeniaca seed raw powder, and the obtained product is stirred and dried; The silane coating solution is an ethanol solution of silane, and the mass percentage concentration of silane in the silane coating solution is at least 10 wt%.

7. A cleansing cream, characterized by, By mass parts, the following ingredients are included: Glycerin, ≥ 15 parts; Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, ≥ 40 parts; EMAL TD, ≥ 10 parts; Sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, ≥ 5 parts; Cocamidopropyl betaine, ≥ 5 parts; Lauryl acid, ≥ 3 parts; Sodium chloride, ≥ 3 parts; Propylene glycol, ≥ 2 parts; Ziga® Suf SLFB 30, ≥ 1 part; Hydrolyzed corn starch, ≥ 1 part; PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, ≥ 0.5 part; Phenoxyethanol, ≥ 0.5 part; Sodium polyacrylate, ≥ 0.5 part; Sodium hydroxide, ≥ 0.35 part; Prunus armeniaca seed powder, ≥ 0.3 part; Hydrated silica, ≥ 0.3 part; Juglans regia shell powder, ≥ 0.1 part; Lactic acid, ≥ 0.15 part; Compound amino acid, ≥ 0.1 part; The prunus armeniaca seed powder is loaded with a hydroxy acid active ingredient, which is at least partially in the form of a buffer salt formed by the hydroxy acid and its basic neutralizing agent; The surface of the prunus armeniaca seed powder comprises a hydrophobic coating layer.

8. The method of preparing the cleansing foam according to claim 7, characterized by, The steps include: S1: mix glycerin, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl hydroxyethyltaurate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and water to obtain phase A; dissolve sodium hydroxide in water as phase B; lauric acid as phase C; mix sodium polyacrylate and propylene glycol as phase D; mix cocamidopropyl betaine and lactic acid as phase E; the rest of the ingredients as phase F; S2: warm phase A to ≥80℃, add phase B, C and D in turn and stir well; cool to ≥50℃, add phase E and stir well; continue to cool to ≤45℃, add phase F and stir well to obtain the facial cleanser.

9. Use of the facial cleanser composition according to any one of claims 1-6 in the manufacture of a cosmetic.

10. Use according to claim 9, characterized in that, The cosmetic is a rinse-off cleansing cosmetic.

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