A transparent powder and preparation method thereof

Abstract

A kind of transparent pressed powder and preparation method thereof, relate to the field of cosmetic technology, the formula of pressed powder includes phase A, phase B and phase C, phase A includes the following components in parts by weight: 0-24.5 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 14.5-16 parts of thickener; phase B includes the following components in parts by weight: 0-2 parts of silica, 0-5 parts of vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer, 54-64 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 6-12 parts of polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer; phase C includes the following components in parts by weight: 0.5 parts of preservatives, 0.5 parts of tocopherol acetate. The pressed powder of the present invention ensures that the pressed powder has a silky skin feel and transparent makeup, and the emollient can also serve as grease while playing an emollient effect, and a large amount of volatile oils do not need to be added in the formula of the pressed powder, and there is no need to carry out a silk cloth oil absorption step when producing, so as to improve the production efficiency of the pressed powder.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular to a transparent powder foundation and a preparation method thereof. Background Art

[0002] Pressed powder is mainly used for makeup touch-ups. It is a cosmetic product made by pressing a mixture of powder and matrix. Its shape varies with the shape of the container. Pressed powder on the market is difficult to use before makeup due to its obvious powdery texture. Therefore, it is urgent to develop a pressed powder that can be used before makeup to fill the gap in the market.

[0003] Among the patents that have been published, for example, the publication number CN108542802B discloses "A kind of transparent powder for cosmetics and its preparation method", and the publication number CN111840133A discloses "A kind of transparent powder and its preparation method". They provide an invention of a transparent powder and a preparation method. Although the formulas described in these two patents are different, the skeletons of these formulas are all powder, silicone oil, and a large dose of silicone elastomer. In actual production, this type of formula may contain a large dose of silicone elastomer, which leads to poor fluidity of the formula itself, making the filling, pressing and other production processes of the formula inefficient; or in order to improve the fluidity of the formula, a large dose of volatile oil is added, which leads to the need to add a step of "absorbing oil" with pressed powder silk cloth during the process of formula pressing, which not only wastes oil and silk cloth, but also has low pressing efficiency. In short, the degree of automated production of their industrialized implementation methods is not high.

[0004] Therefore, there is room for improvement, and the present invention provides a transparent powder foundation and a method for preparing the same. Summary of the invention

[0005] In view of the deficiencies in the prior art, the present invention aims to provide a transparent powder and a preparation method thereof, and the specific scheme is as follows:

[0006] A transparent powder foundation, the formula of which comprises phase A, phase B and phase C, wherein phase A is composed of an emollient and a thickener, phase B is composed of a skin feel regulator and an emollient, and phase C is composed of a preservative and an antioxidant;

[0007] The phase A comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0-24.5 parts of isononyl isononanoate and 14.5-16 parts of a thickener;

[0008] The phase B comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0-2 parts of silica, 0-5 parts of vinyl dimethicone / dimethicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, 54-64 parts of dimethicone, and 6-12 parts of dimethicone crosspolymer;

[0009] The phase C comprises the following ingredients in parts by weight: 0.5 parts of preservatives and 0.5 parts of tocopherol acetate.

[0010] Furthermore, in the phase A, the thickener includes 8.5-9 parts of isostearic acid and 6-7 parts of glutamine thickener.

[0011] Furthermore, the glutamine thickener includes 4-4.5 parts of dibutyl lauroyl glutamine and 2-2.5 parts of dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine.

[0012] Furthermore, in the phase C, the preservative includes 0.25 parts of caprylyl glycol and 0.25 parts of ethylhexylglycerin.

[0013] A method for preparing a transparent powder, the method comprising a mixing process and a filling / pressing process;

[0014] The specific mixing process is as follows: add all the raw materials in phase A to the processing tank in sequence, heat to a constant temperature of 110-120°C, and stir to disperse and dissolve them; then add all the raw materials in phase B to the processing tank in sequence, maintain a constant temperature of 110-120°C, and stir until they are evenly dispersed; then add all the raw materials in phase C to the processing tank in sequence, maintain a constant temperature of 110-120°C, and stir until they are evenly dispersed to obtain a paste;

[0015] The filling / pressing process is as follows: the mixed paste is heated to 110-120°C to make the paste fluid at this temperature, and then the paste is degassed, and the paste is filled or pressed into a container while maintaining a constant temperature of 110-120°C, and cooled and formed to obtain a transparent powder cake.

[0016] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0017] In the powder cake of the present invention, in combination with a thickener and a preservative, polydimethylsiloxane is used as an emollient, polydimethylsiloxane cross-polymer is used as an emollient, and isononyl isononanoate is used as an emollient to impart a silky smooth skin feeling to the skin. Silica is used as a skin feeling regulator, and vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-polymer is used as a skin feeling regulator. On the basis of the emollient imparting a silky smooth skin feeling to the skin, the two skin feeling regulators can further enhance the silky smooth skin feeling, and can also absorb the oil on the skin surface to achieve an oil control effect. Tocopherol acetate is used as an antioxidant to delay the oxidation of oil on the skin and the possibility of causing yellowing of the skin.

[0018] The three emollients in the present invention are equivalent to the silicone oil in the pressed powder, the vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer is equivalent to the silicone elastomer in the pressed powder, and the silica is equivalent to the powder in the pressed powder. In the prior art, some pressed powders have too high a powder content, resulting in a heavy powder texture of the pressed powder, which is not suitable for use before makeup. Some pressed powders have a very high silicone elastomer content, resulting in poor fluidity of the formula itself, which leads to low efficiency of the filling and pressing process of the pressed powder. Compared with the prior art, it can be seen that in the present invention, the content of silicone oil is the highest, and the content of silicone elastomer and silica is relatively low. Under the premise of ensuring the silky skin feel and transparent makeup of the pressed powder, the emollient can act as an emollient while also acting as a grease. There is no need to add a large amount of volatile oils to the formula of the pressed powder, and there is no need to perform the silk cloth oil absorption step during production, thereby improving the production efficiency of the pressed powder. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0019] The present invention will be further described in detail below in conjunction with examples, but the embodiments of the present invention are not limited thereto.

[0020] The present invention provides a transparent powder cake, and the formula of the transparent powder cake is as follows:

[0021] Phase A: 0-24.5 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 8.5-9 parts of isostearic acid, 4-4.5 parts of dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, 2-2.5 parts of dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide;

[0022] Phase B: 0-2 parts of silica, 0-5 parts of vinyl dimethicone / dimethicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, 54-64 parts of dimethicone, 6-12 parts of dimethicone crosspolymer;

[0023] Phase C: 0.25 parts of caprylyl glycol, 0.25 parts of ethylhexylglycerin, 0.5 parts of tocopheryl acetate.

[0024] The weight percentages of each component in the transparent powder can also be seen in Table 1 below.

[0025] Table 1

[0026]

[0027] Correspondingly, the present invention also provides a method for preparing a transparent powder, which comprises a mixing process and a filling / pressing process;

[0028] The specific mixing process is as follows: add all the raw materials in phase A to the processing tank in sequence, heat to a constant temperature of 110-120°C, and stir to disperse and dissolve them; then add all the raw materials in phase B to the processing tank in sequence, maintain a constant temperature of 110-120°C, and stir until they are evenly dispersed; then add all the raw materials in phase C to the processing tank in sequence, maintain a constant temperature of 110-120°C, and stir until they are evenly dispersed to obtain a paste;

[0029] The filling / pressing process is as follows: the mixed paste is heated to 110-120°C to make the paste fluid at this temperature, and then the paste is degassed, and the paste is filled or pressed into a container while maintaining a constant temperature of 110-120°C, and cooled and formed to obtain a transparent powder cake.

[0030] In view of the formula and preparation method of the transparent powder foundation, the present invention also provides the following multiple embodiments, and compares the powder foundation made by the formula of the embodiments with the powder foundation on the existing market to test whether the powder foundation of the present invention is better. At the same time, multiple comparative examples are also provided, and the preparation methods of the embodiments and the comparative examples are consistent. The powder foundation made by the formula of the embodiments and the comparative examples are compared with each other to test whether the powder foundation of the present invention is better to produce.

[0031] Example 1

[0032]

[0033] Example 2

[0034]

[0035] Comparative Example 1

[0036]

[0037]

[0038] Comparative Example 2

[0039]

[0040] Comparative Example 3

[0041]

[0042]

[0043] Comparative Example 4

[0044]

[0045] Comparative Example 5

[0046]

[0047] Comparative Example 6

[0048]

[0049]

[0050] Performance Testing

[0051] 1. Product hardness test

[0052] Test method: The hardness of the product was measured using a Mecmesin texture analyzer.

[0053] Measurement conditions: Keep the sample at a constant temperature of 25° for more than 8 hours, use a 3mm probe, a probe diving speed of 2.0mm / s, a needle penetration depth of 2mm, and read the peak force as the hardness.

[0054] Sample 1- Commercially available transparent powder 1

[0055] Sample 2- Commercially available transparent powder 2

[0056] Sample 3 - Pressed powder prepared according to Example 1

[0057] Sample 4 - Pressed powder prepared according to Example 2

[0058] Table 2

[0059] Hardness / g Sample 1 76 Sample 2 86 Sample 3 85 Sample 4 96

[0060] Through the measurement of hardness, we can see from Table 2 that the hardness of Sample 3 (Example 1) is equivalent to that of Sample 2 (commercially available transparent powder 2), indicating that the two have similar touch feel. At the same time, Sample 4 (Example 2) has a higher hardness than commercially available transparent powder 1, transparent powder 2 and Sample 3, and can provide a drier and smoother application feel.

[0061] 2. Product high temperature fluidity test

[0062] Test method: Brookfield DV2TLV was used for viscosity measurement at a speed of 20 rpm.

[0063] Measurement conditions: Take the sample out of a beaker and measure the viscosity of the paste at room temperature (25°C) and high temperature (maintain heating at 110°C and 120°C).

[0064] Sample 1- Commercially available transparent powder 1

[0065] Sample 2- Commercially available transparent powder 2

[0066] Sample 3 - Pressed powder prepared according to Example 1

[0067] Sample 4 - Pressed powder prepared according to Example 2

[0068] Table 3

[0069]

[0070] Since Samples 3 and 4 are solid at room temperature, their viscosities cannot be measured.

[0071] From the viscosity data in Table 3 above, we can see that the viscosity of Samples 3 and 4 decreases under high temperature conditions, and this flow state is suitable for filling. Therefore, Samples 3 and 4 of the present invention can be automatically filled and pressed on the basis of ensuring a certain viscosity. However, the viscosity of Samples 1 and 2 does not change with the change of temperature, and this flow state is not suitable for filling. If high-pressure filling is selected, Samples 1 and 2 may cause the paste to spray out during the production process due to the high-pressure state, so they are more suitable for manual filling and then pressing processes with relatively low production efficiency.

[0072] 3. Product Preference Evaluation Test

[0073] Experimental method: 35 evaluators (18-65 years old, female) conducted the usage test. The evaluators evaluated the sample immediately after applying it on the face and evaluated it again 8 hours after use.

[0074] The following grades are used for scoring, and the average of the scores of all evaluators is calculated, and the evaluation is made according to the following grade standards. The evaluation items include: softness, makeup fit, makeup lastingness, and smoothness.

[0075] Rating evaluation standard (5-point system): 5 points for very good; 3 points for good; 1 point for relatively poor; 0 points for poor.

[0076] Sample 1- Commercially available transparent powder 1

[0077] Sample 2- Commercially available transparent powder 2

[0078] Sample 3 - Pressed powder prepared according to Example 1

[0079] Sample 4 - Pressed powder prepared according to Example 2

[0080] Table 4

[0081]

[0082]

[0083] The results are shown in Table 4. Compared with Sample 1 and Sample 2, Sample 3 and Sample 4 have similar performance in terms of softness, makeup adherence, and makeup durability, and have certain advantages; especially in terms of smoothness and the difficulty of applying subsequent makeup, Sample 3 and Sample 4 have more obvious advantages. The preference evaluation test shows that the powder formula provided by the present invention can significantly improve the consumer's experience of use.

[0084] It should be noted that, compared with Example 1, Example 2 removes isononyl isononanoate in the emollient and replaces it with silica and vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosslinked polymer in the skin feel regulator. On the basis of ensuring that all ingredients of the powder are within the protection scope of the present invention, as long as the total content of the emollient is not less than 76 parts and the total content of the skin feel regulator is not more than 7 parts, the hardness and viscosity of the prepared powder are better, and can provide the user with a smooth skin feel.

[0085] In order to further verify the rationality of the ingredients in the formula of the powder of the present invention, the powder prepared according to Comparative Examples 1-6 was also subjected to a product hardness test and a product high temperature fluidity test. The results of the product hardness test are shown in Table 5, and the results of the product high temperature fluidity test are shown in Table 6.

[0086] Table 5

[0087] Hardness / g Comparative Example 1 44 Comparative Example 2 152 Comparative Example 3 140 Comparative Example 4 53 Comparative Example 5 155 Comparative Example 6 102 Example 1 85 Example 2 96

[0088] Table 6

[0089]

[0090] Polydimethicone, polydimethicone crosspolymer, and isononyl isononanoate are all emollients, isostearic acid, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide are all thickeners, caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin are all preservatives, tocopherol acetate is an antioxidant, and silica and vinyl polydimethicone / polymethicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer are all skin feel regulators.

[0091] By measuring the hardness, Example 1 is compared with Comparative Examples 1-3. We can see from Table 5 that the hardness of Comparative Example 1 is less than that of Example 1, and the hardness of Comparative Example 1 is much less than that of Comparative Examples 2 and 3, while the hardness of Comparative Examples 2 and 3 is greater than that of Example 1.

[0092] It can be concluded that compared with Example 1, in Comparative Example 1, under the premise that the preservatives, antioxidants and skin feel regulators are consistent, with the increase of emollients (polydimethylsiloxane) and the reduction of thickeners (isostearic acid, dibutyl lauroyl glutamine, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine), the hardness of the obtained powder is too small, the texture is soft, and it is impossible to provide a dry and smooth application feeling. Compared with Example 1, in Comparative Example 2, under the premise that the preservatives, antioxidants and skin feel regulators are consistent, with the reduction of emollients (isononyl isononanoate) and the increase of thickeners (isostearic acid, dibutyl lauroyl glutamine, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine), the hardness of the obtained powder is too large, and it is inconvenient to take the powder.

[0093] Moreover, the three thickeners in Comparative Example 1 are all smaller than the protection scope of the corresponding components of the present invention, and the three thickeners in Comparative Example 2 are all larger than the protection scope of the corresponding components of the present invention. The contents of the other components except the thickeners in Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 are all within the protection scope of the present invention. Therefore, it can be proved that too little or too much total content of the thickener cannot give the powder cake a moderate hardness, and the total content of the thickener cannot be less than 14.5 parts and cannot be more than 17 parts.

[0094] In Comparative Example 3, skin feel regulator (silica, vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer) is added to Comparative Example 3 compared with Example 1, and thickener (isostearic acid, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide) is added to Comparative Example 3 relative to Example 1, and emollient (isononyl isononanoate) is reduced, and the hardness of the obtained powder is too large, which is inconvenient to take powder. Comparative Example 3 adds skin feel regulator (silica, vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer) compared with Comparative Example 2, and reduces thickener (isostearic acid, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide), which can still prove that even if a part of the powder is added to Comparative Example 3, that is, a part of the skin feel regulator replaces the thickener, the total content of the thickener is still too much to give the powder a moderate hardness.

[0095] Comparing Example 2 with Comparative Examples 4-6, we can see that the hardness of Comparative Example 4 is less than that of Example 2, and the hardness of Comparative Example 2 is much less than that of Comparative Examples 5 and 6, while the hardness of Comparative Examples 5 and 6 is greater than that of Example 2.

[0096] It can be concluded that compared with Example 2, in Comparative Example 4, under the premise of consistent preservatives and antioxidants, with the increase of emollients (polydimethylsiloxane), the decrease of thickeners (isostearic acid, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide), and the increase of skin feel regulators (silica, vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer), the prepared powder has a smaller hardness and a softer texture, and cannot provide a dry and smooth application feeling. Moreover, the polydimethylsiloxane in Comparative Example 4 is greater than the protection scope of the present invention, the three thickeners are less than the protection scope of the corresponding components of the present invention, and the two skin feel regulators are greater than the protection scope of the present invention. It can be proved that although the total content of emollients in Comparative Example 4 is greater than 76 parts, the total content of thickeners is too little and the total content of skin feel regulators is too much, and the powder cannot be given a moderate hardness.

[0097] Compared with Example 2, in Comparative Example 5, under the premise of consistent preservatives, antioxidants, and skin feel regulators, with the reduction of emollients (polydimethylsiloxane) and the increase of thickeners (isostearic acid, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide), the hardness of the obtained powder is too large, and it is inconvenient to take the powder. Moreover, the three emollients in Comparative Example 5 are all less than the protection scope of the present invention, and the three thickeners are all greater than the protection scope of the present invention. It can be proved that the total content of the emollients is less than 76 parts, and the total content of the thickeners exceeds 17 parts, and the obtained powder cannot give the powder moderate hardness.

[0098] Compared with Example 2, in Comparative Example 6, under the premise of consistent preservatives, antioxidants, and thickeners, with the reduction of emollients (polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymers) and the increase of skin feel regulators (silica, vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymers), the hardness of the obtained powder cake is slightly greater than that of Example 2, and the smooth skin feel is slightly worse. Although the total content of the emollient in Example 2 is less than 76 parts, the total content of the thickener is 17 parts, and the skin feel regulator exceeds 7 parts, polydimethylsiloxane is not within the scope of protection of the present invention, and the two skin feel regulators are also not within the scope of protection of the present invention, resulting in the viscosity of Comparative Example 2 being too large and the fluidity being poor. Therefore, even though the hardness of Comparative Example 6 is closer to that of Example 2, the flow state of the powder cake of Comparative Example 6 is not suitable for filling.

[0099] In the viscosity test, we compared the viscosity of Comparative Examples 1-6 and Examples 1-2 at 110°C and 120°C to evaluate the fluidity of each paste at high temperature. The powder cake of the present invention has a transparent texture. According to industrial experience, it is not easy to completely degas at high temperature under conditions of high viscosity (for example, a silicone elastic system greater than 10,000 cps), resulting in residual bubbles in the powder cake, causing defects in appearance.

[0100] From the data of the viscosity test in Table 6, it can be seen that the viscosity of Comparative Examples 3-6 at 110° C. and 120° C. exceeds 10,000 cps, and bubbles are easily left in the powder cake, which is not a preferred example.

[0101] The viscosity of Comparative Example 2 at 110° C. and 120° C. is close to that of Example 1. Although there are fewer residual bubbles in the powder cake, the corresponding hardness of Comparative Example 2 is poor. Overall, Comparative Example 2 is not a preferred example.

[0102] However, the viscosity of Comparative Example 1 at 110° C. and 120° C. is too low, and the fluidity is poor, which is not convenient for the filling process and is not a preferred example.

[0103] The above is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments. All technical solutions under the concept of the present invention belong to the protection scope of the present invention. It should be pointed out that for ordinary technicians in this technical field, some improvements and modifications without departing from the principle of the present invention should also be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A transparent powder, characterized in that: The formula of the powder cake consists of phase A, phase B and phase C, wherein phase A consists of an emollient and a thickener, phase B consists of a skin feel regulator and an emollient, and phase C consists of a preservative and an antioxidant; The phase A is composed of the following components in parts by weight: 0-24.5 parts of isononyl isononanoate and 14.5-16 parts of a thickener; The phase B is composed of the following components in parts by weight: 0-2 parts of silica, 0-5 parts of vinyl dimethicone / dimethicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, 54-64 parts of dimethicone, and 6-12 parts of dimethicone crosspolymer; The phase C is composed of the following ingredients in parts by weight: 0.5 parts of preservatives, 0.5 parts of tocopherol acetate; In the phase A, the thickener consists of 8.5-9 parts of isostearic acid and 6-7 parts of glutamine thickener, wherein the glutamine thickener consists of 4-4.5 parts of dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and 2-2.5 parts of dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide.

2. The transparent powder according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the phase C, the preservative consists of 0.25 parts of caprylyl glycol and 0.25 parts of ethylhexylglycerin.

3. A method for preparing the transparent powder according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that: The preparation method includes a mixing process and a filling / pressing process; The specific mixing process is as follows: add all the raw materials in phase A to the processing tank in sequence, heat to a constant temperature of 110-120°C, and stir to disperse and dissolve them; then add all the raw materials in phase B to the processing tank in sequence, maintain a constant temperature of 110-120°C, and stir until they are evenly dispersed; then add all the raw materials in phase C to the processing tank in sequence, maintain a constant temperature of 110-120°C, and stir until they are evenly dispersed to obtain a paste; The filling / pressing process is as follows: the mixed paste is heated to 110-120°C to make the paste fluid at this temperature, and then the paste is degassed, and the paste is filled or pressed into a container while maintaining a constant temperature of 110-120°C, and cooled and formed to obtain a transparent powder cake.

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