A composition for reducing the irritation of surfactant and its application

By using non-ionic emulsifiers, emulsification stabilizers, water-soluble oils and small molecule potent compositions in cleansing products, synergistically reduces the irritation of anionic surfactants, solving the problem of irritation of surfactants on the skin in the prior art, and achieving more effective skin protection and cleaning effects.

CN116492237BActive Publication Date: 2025-04-08HUNAN YUJIA COSMETICS MFG CO LTD
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202310684957.1
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Patents(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2023-06-09
Publication Date
2025-04-08
Estimated Expiration
2043-06-09

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Due to its amphiphilic molecular structure, the anionic surfactants used in existing facial cleansing products will cause irritation and damage to the skin for a long time, making it difficult to effectively reduce their adverse effects on the skin.

Method used

A composition is adopted that includes a nonionic emulsifier, an emulsification stabilizer, a water-soluble oil and a small molecule potency, through synergistically reducing the critical micelle concentration of anionic surfactant, reducing the degree of freedom of free surfactant, reducing its adsorption of skin keratin, and reducing irritation and inflammation of skin living cells.

Benefits of technology

It effectively reduces the irritation and harm of surfactants on the skin in cleansing products, especially the irritation effect of commonly used anionic surfactants on the skin, providing better irritating relief.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention provides a composition for reducing the irritation of surfactants, comprising: 0.5 to 5 parts by weight of nonionic emulsifier; 0.1 to 1 part by weight of emulsifying stabilizer; 0.1 to 1 part by weight of water-soluble oil; and 0.01 to 1 part by weight of small molecule functional substance. Compared with the prior art, the present invention reduces the irritation and damage of surfactants in cleansing products to the skin in four dimensions, namely, reducing the critical micelle concentration of anions, reducing the degree of freedom of free anionic surfactants below the micelle concentration, reducing the amount of anions adsorbed on skin keratin, and reducing the irritation and inflammation of skin living cells by surfactants through the synergistic effect of various components, and solves the problem that the reduction effect of a single aspect is not obvious, especially effectively reducing the irritation of commonly used anionic surfactants to the skin.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular relates to a composition for reducing the irritation of a surfactant and an application thereof. Background Art

[0002] With the improvement of people's living standards and awareness, it has become more and more common for consumers to use cleansing products to clean the skin surface. The frequency of use of cleansing products is getting higher and higher, and many consumers use them in the morning and evening. The most commonly used anionic surfactants in cleansing products are alkyl sulfates, carboxylates, phosphates, etc. In recent years, amino acid surfactants have become the main surfactants used in more and more commercial products because they are milder than other surfactants.

[0003] However, due to their amphiphilic molecular structure, anionic surfactants can cause varying degrees of irritation and damage to the skin if used for a long time. The damage to the skin caused by surfactants can be divided into three stages: first, the interaction with the keratin on the surface of the stratum corneum causes protein denaturation and swelling, which reduces the moisture content of the skin; second, the interaction with the lipids in the stratum corneum dissolves and washes out the lipids, destroys the order of the lipids, and then destroys the skin barrier, making it easier for chemical components to enter the skin; third, the interaction with the living cells of the skin. After the skin barrier is destroyed, the surfactants interact with the deep cells of the skin, causing skin inflammation and even contact dermatitis. Therefore, for daily cleansing products, it is necessary to reduce the adverse effects of surfactants on the skin as much as possible.

[0004] In daily cleansing, surfactants generally adsorb to the skin and then have an impact. Studies have shown that the strongest adsorption of surfactants on the skin occurs before the critical micelle concentration (CMC) is reached, that is, the surfactant is in the form of a monomer in the solution. The overall CMC of different cleansing products is different, so reducing the CMC of the overall system can reduce the skin barrier problems caused by cleansing products.

[0005] The Chinese patent with publication number CN106068158A provides a method and surfactant composition for significantly reducing the critical micelle concentration of currently used anionic surfactants and inhibiting their usage by using anionic biosurfactants cyclic lipopeptides. Compared with the case where anionic surfactants are used alone as surfactants, the surfactant composition significantly reduces the overall CMC and inhibits the usage of anionic surfactants. However, the cyclic lipopeptide surfactants used in it have high biosynthesis costs and low yields, and are not suitable for large-scale addition to cleansing products;

[0006] The Chinese patent with publication number CN112545911A provides a composition for reducing skin irritation, which comprises ectoine and a cosmetic external preparation, wherein the cosmetic external preparation contains an anionic surfactant. The composition provided by the patent can reduce the damage to the skin barrier caused by the anionic surfactant, and its effect is better than directly adding ectoine to a cleaning product containing anionic surfactants, especially for weakly acidic cleaning products.

[0007] However, the above methods are only from a single perspective, such as reducing the critical micelle concentration to reduce the concentration of free surfactants to reduce the interaction between surfactants and skin; or strengthening the skin's resistance to resist the stimulation of surfactants. A single method cannot significantly reduce the impact of the overall cleansing product on the skin. Summary of the invention

[0008] In view of this, the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a composition for reducing the irritation of surfactants and its application.

[0009] The present invention provides a composition for reducing the irritation of a surfactant, comprising:

[0010]

[0011] Preferably, the nonionic emulsifier is selected from one or more of polyglyceryl-10-laurate, PEG-80 sorbitan laurate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil; preferably polyglyceryl-10-laurate.

[0012] Preferably, the emulsion stabilizer is selected from one or more of inulin lauryl carbamate, acrylic acid (ester) copolymers and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate; preferably inulin lauryl carbamate.

[0013] Preferably, the water-soluble oil is selected from one or more of PPG-30-butanol polyether-30, PPG-10 methyl glucose ether, jojoba wax PEG-120 esters and caprylic / capric glycerides polyglycerol-10 esters; preferably PPG-30-butanol polyether-30.

[0014] Preferably, the small molecule efficacy substance is selected from one or more of amino acids, carnosine, small molecule sodium hyaluronate and tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid; preferably small molecule sodium hyaluronate; the molecular weight of the small molecule sodium hyaluronate is 400 to 800 Daltons.

[0015] The present invention also provides a facial cleansing product, comprising the above-mentioned composition for reducing the irritation of surfactant and an anionic surfactant.

[0016] Preferably, the mass of the composition for reducing surfactant irritation is 0.71% to 8% of the mass of the cleansing product.

[0017] Preferably, the mass of the anionic surfactant is 5% to 35% of the mass of the cleansing product.

[0018] Preferably, it also includes a moisturizing component; the mass of the moisturizing component is 5% to 50% of the mass of the cleansing product; and one or more of the glycerin, butylene glycol, sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate and trehalose.

[0019] Preferably, a pH regulator is also included; the mass of the pH regulator is 0.01% to 2% of the mass of the cleansing product.

[0020] The present invention provides a composition for reducing the irritation of surfactants, comprising: 0.5 to 5 parts by weight of nonionic emulsifier; 0.1 to 1 part by weight of emulsifying stabilizer; 0.1 to 1 part by weight of water-soluble oil; and 0.01 to 1 part by weight of small molecule functional substance. Compared with the prior art, the present invention reduces the irritation and damage of surfactants in cleansing products to the skin in four dimensions, namely, reducing the critical micelle concentration of anions, reducing the degree of freedom of free anionic surfactants below the micelle concentration, reducing the amount of anions adsorbed on skin keratin, and reducing the irritation and inflammation of skin living cells by surfactants through the synergistic effect of various components, and solves the problem that the reduction effect of a single aspect is not obvious, especially effectively reducing the irritation of commonly used anionic surfactants to the skin. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0021] Figure 1 This is a trend chart of skin moisture reduction rate in the transepidermal water loss test of the cleansing product and the blank formula in Example 6 of the present invention;

[0022] Figure 2 This is a graph showing the cleaning power test results of the facial cleanser product and a blank formula in Example 6 of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0023] The following will be combined with the embodiments of the present invention to clearly and completely describe the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of the embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without making creative work are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0024] The present invention provides a composition for reducing the irritation of a surfactant, comprising:

[0025]

[0026] The biggest factor affecting the adsorption of surfactants to the skin is the concentration of free surfactant monomers. The present invention reduces the critical micelle concentration (CMC) of surfactants by using nonionic emulsifiers, so that more surfactants exist in the form of micelles, and the concentration of free surfactants is reduced. For the free surfactants, the hydrophobic polymer as an emulsion stabilizer further adsorbs the free surfactants to limit their adsorption to the skin. The combination of these two aspects can minimize the adsorption of surfactants to the skin.

[0027] In the composition provided by the present invention, the content of the nonionic emulsifier is preferably 0.5 to 3 parts by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 2 parts by weight; the nonionic emulsifier is preferably one or more of polyglycerol-10-laurate, PEG-80 sorbitan laurate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, more preferably polyglycerol-10-laurate; polyglycerol fatty acid ester is a type of safe, efficient and multifunctional nonionic emulsifier, which is widely used in the fields of food, cosmetics, medicine, etc. The fatty acid residue part in its molecular structure serves as a lipophilic group, and the free hydroxyl group on the polyglycerol skeleton serves as a hydrophilic group. It has excellent surface activity, can significantly reduce the surface tension of the aqueous solution, and can be mixed with a surfactant to reduce the critical micelle concentration of the surfactant, thereby reducing the irritation of the surfactant.

[0028] In the composition provided by the present invention, the content of the emulsion stabilizer is preferably 0.1 to 0.8 parts by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5 parts by weight; the emulsion stabilizer is a hydrophobic polymer, and in the present invention, it is preferably one or more of inulin lauryl carbamate, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, more preferably inulin lauryl carbamate; inulin lauryl carbamate is a naturally derived high-molecular-weight long-chain polymer, and its curled molecular chain is dispersed in the system, and the lipophilic group of the surfactant is adsorbed in its molecular chain, and its activity is restricted through the steric hindrance effect, and the concentration of free monomer surfactant is reduced, thereby reducing the concentration of surfactant that acts on the skin.

[0029] In the composition provided by the present invention, the content of the water-soluble oil is preferably 0.1 to 0.8 parts by weight, and more preferably 0.5 parts by weight; by using a water-soluble oil with high affinity to the skin, it can bind to the keratin of the skin during cleansing, thereby further reducing the interaction and binding between free surfactants and keratin, and further reducing the adsorption of surfactants to the skin; in the present invention, the water-soluble oil is preferably one or more of PPG-30-butanol polyether-30, PPG-10 methyl glucose ether, jojoba wax PEG-120 esters and caprylic / capric glycerides polyglycerol-10 esters, and more preferably PPG-30-butanol polyether-30.

[0030] In the composition provided by the present invention, the content of the small molecule efficacy is preferably 0.05 to 1 part by weight; in the composition provided by the present invention, the content of the small molecule efficacy in the composition is preferably 0.05 part by weight, 1 part by weight or 0.1 part by weight; in the present invention, the small molecule efficacy is preferably one or more of amino acids, carnosine, small molecule sodium hyaluronate and tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, more preferably small molecule sodium hyaluronate; for surfactants entering the skin, small molecule efficacy, especially ultra-small molecule hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, has good permeability, can protect the active epidermis, inhibit the generation of inflammatory factors, reduce the oxidative stress of cells, and for the stimulation of surfactants, can protect the integrity of cell morphology, provide cell activity, and reduce the stimulation of adsorbed surfactants to the skin. The molecular weight of the small molecule sodium hyaluronate is preferably 400 to 800 Daltons; ultra-small molecule hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, especially small molecule hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight as low as 400 Daltons, reduces the inflammation of surfactants to damaged living cells, provides cell activity, and antagonizes the oxidative stress damage caused by surfactants to cells.

[0031] The present invention uses the synergistic effect of various components to reduce the critical micelle concentration of anions, reduce the freedom of free anionic surfactants below the micelle concentration, reduce the amount of anions adsorbed on skin keratin, and reduce the irritation and inflammation of surfactants on skin living cells from four dimensions, thereby comprehensively reducing the irritation and damage to the skin caused by surfactants in cleansing products, solving the problem of insignificant reduction effect in a single aspect, especially effectively reducing the irritation of commonly used anionic surfactants to the skin.

[0032] The present invention also provides a facial cleansing product, comprising the above-mentioned composition for reducing the irritation of surfactant and an anionic surfactant.

[0033] The mass ratio of the composition for reducing surfactant irritation to the anionic surfactant is preferably (0.5-5):1, more preferably (0.75-4.5):5; in the embodiments provided by the present invention, the mass ratio of the composition for reducing surfactant irritation to the anionic surfactant is specifically 0.75:5, 4.5:5 or 3:5.

[0034] According to the present invention, the mass of the composition for reducing surfactant irritation is preferably 0.71% to 0.8% of the mass of the cleansing product, more preferably 0.75% to 8%, further preferably 0.75% to 0.5%, and most preferably 0.75% to 3.1%; in the embodiments provided by the present invention, the mass of the composition for reducing surfactant irritation is specifically 0.75%, 4.5% or 3.1% of the mass of the cleansing product.

[0035] According to the present invention, the mass of the anionic surfactant is preferably 5% to 35% of the mass of the cleansing product, more preferably 5% to 30%, more preferably 5% to 20%, and most preferably 5% to 15%; the anionic surfactant can be an anionic surfactant well known to those skilled in the art, without any special restrictions, and preferably includes but is not limited to one or more of sodium laureth sulfate, TEA cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.

[0036] According to the present invention, the facial cleanser preferably also includes a moisturizing ingredient; the mass of the moisturizing ingredient is preferably 5% to 50% of the mass of the facial cleanser, more preferably 10% to 50%, more preferably 20% to 45%, more preferably 30% to 40%, and most preferably 35%; the moisturizing ingredient can be a moisturizing ingredient well known to those skilled in the art, without any special restrictions, and preferably includes but is not limited to one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate and trehalose in the present invention.

[0037] According to the present invention, a pH adjuster can be added to the cleansing product as needed; in the present invention, the pH adjuster is preferably added to make the pH value of the cleansing product 5-7; the mass of the pH adjuster is preferably 0.01%-2% of the mass of the cleansing product, and its specific amount can be adjusted according to the actual pH value of the cleansing system; the pH adjuster can be a pH adjuster well known to those skilled in the art, and there is no special limitation, and preferably includes but is not limited to citric acid in the present invention.

[0038] The facial cleansing product provided by the invention has a good irritation alleviating effect.

[0039] To further illustrate the present invention, a composition for reducing the irritation of surfactants and its application are described in detail below in conjunction with examples.

[0040] The reagents used in the following examples are all commercially available; the concentration of the PBS buffer used in the examples is 0.01 mol / L and the pH value is 7.

[0041] Example 1: Screening of raw materials for reducing surface irritation

[0042] 1.1 Zein test

[0043] 1) Test principle: Zein is almost completely insoluble in water, but if it interacts with a surfactant, its water solubility will increase. The amount of change in water solubility depends on the strength of the interaction between zein and the surfactant. Strongly irritating surfactants are more likely to dissolve zein than weakly irritating surfactants. Therefore, based on the change in nitrogen content before and after the action of the surfactant in the aqueous solution, the solubility of zein after the action of the surfactant can be determined, and the change in solubility reflects the strength of the interaction between the surfactant and zein. This method characterizes the result of the interaction between the surfactant and the protein, so it is possible to understand the irritation of the surfactant to the skin keratin.

[0044] 2) Test method: The surfactant or product to be tested is prepared into an aqueous solution with an active content of 1.75%, and the pH is adjusted to 7 with citric acid, and stirred evenly for use to obtain a surfactant solution or a product solution; 100 g of the prepared surfactant solution or product solution is taken, 4 g of zein is added, and magnetic stirring is carried out at room temperature for 2 h, and the solution is left to stand for 1.5 h. The undissolved zein is obtained by suction filtration, and then placed in a 40°C oven for drying for 3 days; after complete drying, the amount of dried zein is weighed (value a).

[0045] 3) Test results and analysis: The amount of dissolved zein was calculated using the following formula: Zein value (g / g) = (4-a) / 1.75 (the irritation of the test substance is determined based on the size of the Zein value; the smaller the Zein value, the less irritating the test substance is).

[0046] 1.2 Sheep red blood cell test

[0047] 1) Test principle

[0048] Irritating chemicals cause damage to the red blood cell membrane, leading to hemoglobin leakage and denaturation. Therefore, the oxygenated hemoglobin content can be quantified by detecting hemolysis and protein denaturation, thereby quantifying the irritation of the test substance (determine the damage to the cell membrane by chemicals and the resulting changes in cell membrane permeability, and evaluate the degree of cell membrane damage by measuring the amount of hemoglobin leaked from red blood cells. The degree of damage is directly correlated to the irritation of the product).

[0049] 2) Test methods

[0050] Hemolysis assay:

[0051] Control group: Dilute potassium cocoyl glycinate with PBS to prepare a 3% solution, take 6.67 ml each time to prepare a 0.004g / ml solution in a 50ml volumetric flask, take 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70μl into 1.5ml plastic centrifuge tubes in sequence, fill each tube to 600μl with PBS solution, quickly add 400μl of red blood cell suspension (4%) into a 1.5ml plastic centrifuge tube, and prepare a positive control (600μl of pure water and 400μl of red blood cell suspension) and a negative control (600μl of PBS buffer and 400μl of red blood cell suspension) to finally determine, and carry out the experiment with 60μl of 0.004g / ml potassium cocoyl glycinate solution as the control group.

[0052] Experimental group: To explore the effect of various raw materials on the hemolysis rate of red blood cells, a certain amount of surfactant and test substance were added to 25 ml of solution, 60 μl of the mixed liquid was taken into a 1.5 ml plastic centrifuge tube, 400 μl of red blood cell suspension (4%) was quickly added, and incubated with shaking at 28-32°C for 15 minutes; then centrifuged at 8000 r / min and 10°C for 3 minutes; after centrifugation, 200 μl of supernatant was immediately aspirated into the ELISA plate with a pipette, the absorbance was tested at 560 nm, the value was recorded, and the hemolysis rate was calculated.

[0053] 1.3 Surface tension method

[0054] Test principle: In a very dilute surfactant solution, the surface of the solution is enriched with surfactant molecules, and the hydrophobic groups of the surfactants covering the surface of the solution face outward, which is equivalent to forming a surface layer composed of hydrocarbon chains, thus greatly changing the surface properties (reduced surface tension), and the magnitude of the reduction in surface tension is related to the concentration of the surfactant. When the surface adsorption tends to saturation, the solution has the lowest surface tension. At this time, if the concentration of the surfactant is continued to increase, it will not significantly increase the concentration of single molecules or ions on the surface of the solution, but can only form micelles in the solution. Due to the formation of micelles, the properties of the surfactant solution have changed significantly. Therefore, the logarithm of the surface tension and the concentration can be plotted. When the surface adsorption reaches saturation, the curve has a turning point, and the concentration at this point is the critical micelle concentration.

[0055] Test method: Accurately prepare a series of surfactant solutions to be tested from high to low concentrations. Stir evenly, take out a small amount of the prepared solution respectively, and put them into different numbered test tubes for testing in turn. Test with a fully automatic surface tension meter, place the sample to be tested in a beaker, and then place the beaker on a lifting platform. Slightly burn the cleaned platinum ring, place the burned platinum ring on the hook, keep the platinum ring stable, and click the force reset button until the force value is zero, test and record the data. Plot the logarithm of surface tension and concentration. When the surface adsorption reaches saturation, the curve has a turning point. The concentration at this point is the critical micelle concentration. The surface tension of the surfactant aqueous solution initially decreases sharply with the increase of the solution concentration, and changes slowly or no longer changes after reaching a certain concentration (ie CMC).

[0056] 1.4 Raw material screening to reduce micelle concentration

[0057] The investigation found that some plant extracts, polyols, nonionic surfactants and other raw materials all reduce the critical micelle concentration of surfactants, thereby reducing the irritation of surfactants. Therefore, some raw material screening was done, taking 10g of surfactants and 1g of CMC raw materials that reduce surfactants, dissolving them in 89g of water, making a mixed solution, and diluting the mixed solution to multiple concentration gradients to measure the final CMC concentration point. The results are shown in Tables 1 to 3.

[0058] Based on the experiments on reducing CMC and zein, it was found that polyglyceryl-10 laurate had the best effect.

[0059] Table 1 Results of raw material screening to reduce micelle concentration

[0060]

[0061] Table 2 Test results of raw material zein protein with reduced micelle concentration

[0062]

[0063]

[0064] Table 3 Test results of raw red blood cells by reducing micelle concentration (to 50ml)

[0065]

[0066] 1.5 Raw material screening to reduce free surfactant concentration

[0067] Polymers: Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

[0068] The investigation found that acrylic acid (ester), cellulose, cationic polyquaternary ammonium salts and the like can reduce the free monomer surfactant concentration of surfactants, thereby reducing the irritation of surfactants, so some raw materials were screened and tested according to the above method, and the results are shown in Table 4 and Table 5. It was found that inulin lauryl carbamate had the best effect.

[0069] Table 4 Test results of raw material zein protein in reducing free surfactant concentration

[0070]

[0071] Table 5 Test results of raw material red blood cells in the dimension of reducing free surfactant concentration

[0072]

[0073] 1.6 Raw material screening from the perspective of reducing surfactant skin adsorption

[0074] Oils and fats: PPG-30-butanol polyether-30

[0075] The investigation found that oily substances can preferentially bind to the skin, thereby reducing the adsorption of surfactants on skin keratin, reducing the damage of surfactants to skin keratin, and thus reducing the irritation of surfactants. Therefore, some raw materials were screened and tested according to the above method, and the results are shown in Tables 6 and 7. It was found that PPG-30-butanol polyether-30 had the best effect.

[0076] Table 6 Results of testing and screening of raw material zein for reducing surfactant skin adsorption

[0077]

[0078] Table 7 Surfactant skin adsorption dimension raw material red blood cell test results

[0079]

[0080]

[0081] 1.7 Raw material screening from the perspective of reducing stimulation and inflammation of skin living cells

[0082] Live Cell Protection: Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate 400

[0083] The investigation found that some small molecule functional substances such as amino acids, carnosine, small molecule sodium hyaluronate, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, and some macromolecular substances can play a role in cell protection, thereby reducing the stimulation of surfactants on cells. Therefore, some raw materials were screened and tested according to the above method. The results are shown in Table 8. It was found that the patented raw material independently developed by the company (Chinese patent application number 202210309547.4) hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate 400 has the best effect.

[0084] Table 8 Results of raw material screening from the perspective of reducing stimulation and inflammation of skin living cells

[0085]

[0086] 1.8 Mechanism of action and target of each component

[0087] 1) Anionic surfactants: Anionic surfactants used in cleansing products generally include sodium laureth sulfate, TEA salt of cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, etc.; compared with other surfactants, cleaning products containing anionic surfactants have rich foam, strong cleaning ability, and are easy to rinse, and are widely used in modern cleansing products.

[0088] 2) Polyglycerol-10-laurate: Polyglycerol-10 laurate is a powerful solubilizer and emulsifier. Its raw materials are 100% plant-based, do not contain EO structure, are mild and non-irritating, and have obtained EU REACH certification and are widely used in the cosmetics and daily chemical industries. It feels refreshing and moisturizing on the skin, and has excellent moisturizing effects. The fatty acid residues in its molecular structure serve as lipophilic groups, and the free hydroxyl groups on the polyglycerol skeleton serve as hydrophilic groups. It has excellent surface activity and a very low critical micelle concentration. It can significantly reduce the surface tension of aqueous solutions. When combined with anionic surfactants, it can significantly reduce the critical micelle concentration (CMC) of the overall surfactant, thereby reducing the irritation of the surfactant.

[0089] The performance advantages of polyglyceryl-10 laurate: 1. Excellent emulsifying properties, compared with non-ionic polyoxyethylene ether surfactants, it can show better oxidation stability and acid and alkali stability; 2. Excellent detergency and foaming properties; 3. Due to its polyhydroxy hydrophilic structure, it has good water-locking function and moisturizing effect; 4. It does not contain epoxy groups, the raw materials are all plant-based, green and safe, non-irritating to the skin, and suitable for the production of baby care products; 5. It has certain antibacterial properties.

[0090] 3) Inulin lauryl carbamate: Inulin lauryl carbamate is a polymer derived from the natural polysaccharide inulin. Inulin is a linear polysaccharide compound composed of fructose monomers. It is a polymer obtained by grafting a hydrophobic face onto the polysaccharide of inulin. Its molecular structure contains a hydrophobic structure. In an aqueous solution of surfactant, its hydrophobic group and the hydrophobic group of the surfactant can adsorb, thereby combining the surfactant monomer to its own inulin polysaccharide chain. Due to the steric hindrance effect of the inulin chain, the activity of the monomer surfactant is prevented, thereby reducing the content of free monomer surfactant in the system and reducing the irritation of the system.

[0091] 4) PPG-30-Butyl Polyether-30: A water-soluble oil with a relatively high molecular weight, high adhesion, and good affinity with the skin. In the surfactant system, it can be adsorbed on the skin surface, thereby reducing the adsorption of surfactants on skin keratin, reducing the damage of surfactants to skin keratin, and thus reducing irritation.

[0092] 5) Ultra-small molecule hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate: The ultra-fine sodium hyaluronate of the present invention is the patented raw material Micro Four Hundred Hyaluronic Acid (202210309547.4) commercialized by our company. Hyaluronic acid (HA), also known as hyaluronic acid, has a molecular formula of (C14H21NO11)n, which is a disaccharide unit glycosaminoglycan composed of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine. Hyaluronic acid has high viscoelasticity, plasticity, super strong water retention, permeability and good biological absorbability. It is widely used in cosmetics, medicine, food and other fields. The biological activity and use effect of HA are directly related to its relative molecular weight, so it exhibits different effects and functions according to the difference in its molecular weight. For example, high molecular weight (Mr>2×106) HA (HMWHA) has good viscoelasticity, moisturizing, and inhibition of inflammatory response; while the molecular weight of 1~2×10 6 HA has good moisturizing, lubricating and drug sustained-release effects; low molecular weight HA (LMWHA) has functions such as anti-tumor, promoting wound healing, promoting bone and angiogenesis, and immune regulation. The molecular weight of the ultrafine sodium hyaluronate described in the present invention is less than 2000, and it has the characteristics of high permeability, can provide cell activity, reduce the expression of inflammatory factors such as IL-1α after cells are damaged by surfactant stimulation, and significantly antagonize the oxidative stress damage to cells caused by surfactants.

[0093] Examples 2 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5

[0094] The composition and test results of the composition for reducing surfactant irritation are shown in Table 9.

[0095] Table 9 Composition and test results of the composition for reducing surfactant irritation

[0096]

[0097] Example 6: Cleansing product

[0098] Cleansing products were prepared according to the formulas in Tables 10 and 11 below, and the irritation of the finished products was compared and verified with blank samples and popular products on the market.

[0099] Table 10 Blank formula

[0100]

[0101]

[0102] Table 11 Cleansing product formula

[0103] Components Ratio water 79.39 TEA Cocoyl Glutamate 6 Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate 3 Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 2 Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.5 glycerin 5 p-Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 1,2-Hexanediol 0.5 Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate 2 Citric Acid 0.01 Inulin Lauryl Carbamate 0.5 PPG-30-Butyl Polyether-30 0.5 Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate (400) 0.1

[0104] Sheep Red Blood Cell Finished Product Testing

[0105] Test method: Take 0.01 g of the cleansing product (the cleansing product in Example 6 or the blank formula) and put it into a 50 mL volumetric flask, take 100 μL, 300 μL, and 500 μL into 1.5 mL plastic centrifuge tubes respectively, fill each tube to 500 μL with PBS solution, quickly put 500 μL of red blood cell suspension (4%) into the 1.5 mL plastic centrifuge tube, shake and incubate at 28-32°C for 15 minutes; then centrifuge at 8000 r / min and 10°C for 3 minutes; after centrifugation, immediately use a pipette to aspirate 200 μL of the supernatant into the ELISA plate, test the absorbance at 560 nm, and obtain the test results as shown in Table 12.

[0106] Table 12 Sheep red blood cell finished product test results

[0107]

[0108] Transepidermal water loss test

[0109] 1) Test principle: FICK diffusion law: dm / dt=DAdp / dx. Two sets of temperature and humidity sensors are used to measure the water vapor pressure gradient formed by the water loss from the stratum corneum near the epidermis (within about 1 cm) at different bright spots, and directly measure the amount of water dissipated through the skin. The TEWL value is an important indicator of the quality of the skin barrier. The lower the TEWL value of the skin, the better the moisturizing effect, and vice versa.

[0110] 2) Test methods

[0111] Test environment: The test environment temperature is 22±1℃, the humidity is 50±5%, and real-time dynamic detection is performed.

[0112] Test volunteers: At least 30 valid volunteers, aged between 16-65 years old (except pregnant or lactating women); no serious systemic diseases, immunodeficiency or autoimmune diseases; no history of severe allergies to skin care cosmetics; no use of hormone drugs and immunosuppressants in the past month; no participation in other clinical trials; use of test drugs as required and complete information; all volunteers should fill out an informed consent form before testing.

[0113] Test steps:

[0114] Preparation before the test: No products (cosmetics or topical drugs) should be used on the test area 2-3 days before the test. Before the test, the subject needs to agree to clean the inner forearms of both hands and let them air dry naturally. After cleaning, the subject should mark the measurement area on the inner forearms of both hands. Before the formal test, the subject should sit quietly in a standard room for at least 30 minutes, without drinking water, with the forearms exposed and placed in the test state, and remain relaxed.

[0115] Testing process: During the experiment, the inner sides of the left and right arms were marked with 3*3cm 2 In the test area, multiple areas can be marked on the same arm, with an interval of 1cm between the areas. The test samples and controls are randomly distributed on the left and right arms. Use the probe Tewameter TM300 to measure the skin moisture loss in the test area. Each area is measured 15 times in parallel. First measure the blank value of each test area, use equal amounts of experimental samples and control samples in the test area of ​​the subject, rub the same number of circles, and then rinse and air-dry before measuring the moisture loss of the three areas. Test once every 20 minutes and continue to evaluate for 100 minutes. The test of the same volunteer is completed by the same measurement personnel.

[0116] Test data: According to the experimental design, the skin moisture loss in each time period was measured, and the reduction in skin moisture loss at each time point was calculated. The greater the reduction in skin moisture loss, the less damage the sample causes to the skin barrier and the lower the irritation.

[0117] 3) Test results and analysis:

[0118] The calculation formula for the reduction rate of skin water loss is: W% = (W 2 -W 1 ) / W 1 *100%

[0119] Note: W is the reduction rate of skin water loss, %; W 2 W is the skin moisture loss value after using the sample; 1 It is the skin moisture loss value before using the sample.

[0120] The experimental test results are shown in Table 13. Figure 1 shown. Figure 1 This is a trend chart of skin moisture reduction rate.

[0121] Table 13 Transdermal water loss test results

[0122] Sample name <![CDATA[W 2 ]]> <![CDATA[W 1 ]]> W% Blank formula 15.8 18.4 17.6 Example 6 Cleansing product 15.3 16.8 16

[0123] Cleaning power test

[0124] 1) Test principle

[0125] In recent years, the methods for evaluating the cleaning ability of products have become increasingly diverse. The subjective evaluation method is consumer questionnaires and sensory evaluation by professionals. The objective evaluation method is to evaluate the skin color difference or L* value difference under different conditions based on instruments such as colorimeter, and then quantitatively evaluate the cleaning ability of the product. In order to make the test results more objective, a kind of skin bionic dirt truly simulates common facial dirt and is dyed. By comparing the changes in skin color difference before and after cleaning, the decontamination ability of the cleansing product is quantitatively reflected. The closer the skin state after cleaning is to the initial state of the skin before use, that is, the smaller the △E, the cleaner the skin is, that is, the stronger the cleaning ability of the cleaning product.

[0126] 2) Test methods

[0127] Experimental steps:

[0128] Preparation of skin bionic dirt raw materials: Use C10-18 fatty acid triglycerides, hexadecanoic acid cetyl ester, oleic acid, squalane, ceramide, phytosteryl isostearate, hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol and other materials to prepare skin bionic dirt raw materials.

[0129] Test process: Before the test, volunteers should wash the inner forearms with clean water at about 35℃, sit and rest for 20 minutes in the test environment, and then start the test after drying naturally. Select two hairless and symmetrical areas on the inner forearms of the volunteers' left and right arms, and use positioning card paper to mark the boundaries of the test area. Randomly number A and B, according to 3mg / cm 2 The amount of dirt was applied to the test area of ​​the volunteer's arm, and the product was applied evenly and dried naturally. The volunteers were divided into two different areas, A and B, and the test products were applied respectively. Except for the different samples, the test areas were cleaned with a fixed technique, and then rinsed with clean water at a fixed water flow rate of 3L / min and about 35℃ for 20s. After the volunteer's test area was dried naturally, each test area was photographed with a dermatoscope, and microscopic pictures of the skin after the test area was cleaned with the sample were saved.

[0130] 3) Test results and analysis: Obtain the skin micrographs of the volunteers before applying dirt, after applying dirt and after using the sample for cleaning, respectively use IPP software to analyze the L value, a value and b* value of the picture, calculate the color difference after applying dirt compared with the volunteers before applying dirt, recorded as ΔE (after applying); the larger the L value, the more white it tends to be, and vice versa, the more black it tends to be; the a value represents the balance from green to red, the larger the a value, the more red the skin tends to be, and vice versa, the more green it tends to be; the b value represents the balance from blue to yellow, the larger the b value, the more yellow it tends to be, and vice versa, the more blue it tends to be. The color difference can be calculated by the difference in L value, a value and b value, which is consistent with the eye feeling. ΔE can reflect the three-dimensional change of chromaticity, the larger the ΔE value, the more obvious the color difference, the smaller the ΔE value, the closer the color, the product cleaning ability is calculated by the ΔE value, and the cleaning rate calculation formula is:

[0131]

[0132]

[0133] The test results are shown in Table 14 and Figure 2 shown.

[0134] Table 14 Cleaning power test results

[0135] Cleanser name Cleaning rate (%) Example 6 Cleansing Product Formula 0.9143 Blank formula 0.9067

Claims

1. A composition for reducing the irritation of a surfactant, characterized in that: include: The nonionic emulsifier is selected from polyglycerol-10-laurate; The emulsion stabilizer is selected from inulin lauryl carbamate; The water-soluble oil is selected from PPG-30-butanol polyether-30; The small molecule efficacy substance is selected from small molecule sodium hyaluronate; the molecular weight of the small molecule sodium hyaluronate is 400 to 800 Daltons.

2. A facial cleansing product, characterized in that: The composition comprises the composition for reducing the irritation of surfactant according to claim 1 and an anionic surfactant.

3. The facial cleansing product according to claim 2, characterized in that: The mass of the composition for reducing the irritation of surfactant is 0.71% to 8% of the mass of the facial cleanser product.

4. The facial cleansing product according to claim 2, characterized in that: The mass of the anionic surfactant is 5% to 35% of the mass of the cleansing product.

5. The facial cleansing product according to claim 2, characterized in that: It also includes moisturizing ingredients; the mass of the moisturizing ingredients is 5% to 50% of the mass of the cleansing product; the moisturizing ingredients are selected from one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate and trehalose.

6. The facial cleansing product according to claim 2, characterized in that: It also includes a pH value regulator; the mass of the pH value regulator is 0.01% to 2% of the mass of the cleansing product.

Citation Information

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