Process for manufacturing a low material ratio warp-knitted seamless hollow base garment

Abstract

This invention relates to a low-material-consumption warp-knitted seamless openwork base layer garment manufacturing process. In the template structure design, sleeve tubes are arranged side-by-side above the body tubes, with the lower part of the sleeve tubes connected to the body tubes to form a rectangular pattern. The shoulder of the rectangular pattern is designed with an openwork structure, and then it is knitted in one pass on a double-needle bed Jacquard warp knitting machine. This invention's rectangular template changes the original three-tube branch structure of the base layer garment to a two-tube branch structure, eliminating the waste caused by inconsistent lengths of multiple tubes. The openwork structure at the shoulder allows the sleeve tubes to rotate 180° after the base layer garment is removed from the machine, preventing pressure on the body. The rectangular template uses an openwork neckline instead of the traditional neckline structure, eliminating the waste of neckline cutting. This invention shortens the processing time for making base layers, reduces the raw materials required to knit a single base layer garment, and reduces the proportion of cutting waste in each base layer garment, reducing material loss and improving production efficiency. Furthermore, the openwork structure makes the base layer garment more aesthetically pleasing.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of knitted garment technology, specifically relating to a process method for knitting openwork base garments. Background Technology

[0002] Base layer clothing is worn close to the skin, typically made of soft and elastic fabric that stretches and conforms to the body when worn. Traditional base layer clothing is made through pattern making and sewing processes, which presents certain challenges in pattern making and size design. Furthermore, the discomfort caused by the seams in base layer clothing is greater than that of non-close-fitting garments. With the rapid development of full-form knitting technology, high-elasticity, close-fitting garments are increasingly using warp-knitted full-form knitting techniques. Jacquard weave design and density adjustment can improve the comfort of tight-fitting garments and allow for the combination of different weaves, providing certain functionalities. However, when using full-form knitting technology to weave base layer clothing, because of the curvature of the shoulders and the fact that sleeve length and garment length are usually unequal, the base layer clothing pattern has a cutting area. This results in higher material consumption during knitting, greater material waste, longer working hours, and lower economic efficiency. Summary of the Invention

[0003] This invention aims to solve the problem of excessive material consumption during the cutting and weaving of existing fully-formed base garments due to the curvature of the shoulders and the difference between sleeve length and garment length. It provides a process method for warp-knitted seamless hollow base garments with low material consumption.

[0004] This invention adopts the following technical solution: a process for making a low-material-consumption warp-knitted seamless openwork base garment, comprising the following steps:

[0005] A low-material-consumption process for warp-knitted seamless openwork base garments:

[0006] (1) Rectangular pattern template structure design; In the template structure diagram, the sleeves are arranged side by side above the body tube, and the lower part of the sleeves is connected to the body tube to form a rectangular pattern. The shoulder design and cutting of the rectangular pattern can be formed into a hollow structure.

[0007] (2) In Photoshop, the base layer of the rectangular pattern is divided into functional areas, and different Jacquard structures are designed. Different functional areas are filled with different structures.

[0008] (3) Design of organizational structure diagram: WKCAD software is used to design the organizational filling of the functional area. The composite organization in the functional area is filled with the complete pattern cycle in the organization library;

[0009] (4) The double-needle bed Jacquard warp knitting machine is used for weaving. The different structures of the functional zones are knitted. The tension density of the sleeves and the body is different, and the tightness after the machine is different.

[0010] (5) The ground comb of the double needle bed Jacquard warp knitting machine forms loops on the front needle bed to form a closed chain knitting structure. The loop extensions overlap each other. The padding yarn number of the closed chain knitting structure is 1-0-0-0 / / .

[0011] (6) After the base garment comes off the machine, cut out the hollow structure of the sleeve along the cutting area, rotate the sleeve 180° to both sides of the body, and the hollow structure forms a hollow hole on the shoulder to obtain the finished base garment.

[0012] Furthermore, the base layer is woven with nylon high-elastic yarn and uses nylon-spandex covered yarn for Jacquard combing.

[0013] Furthermore, in step (3), the sleeve tube and the body tube are separated by the openwork structure of the shoulder, the upper density of the sleeve tube is 8, and the upper density of the body tube is 7.

[0014] Furthermore, the shoulder cutout is formed by horizontal cutting, with the cutting line length being 1 / 2 of the sleeve width.

[0015] Furthermore, the functional areas are divided into the following zones in sequence: cuff tightening zone, sleeve elastic zone, neckline reinforcement zone, openwork cutting zone, cutting zone, underarm tightening zone, front chest elastic zone, front chest support zone, back elastic zone, side stretching zone, waist elastic zone, waist tightening zone, and cutting zone.

[0016] The advantages of this invention are as follows:

[0017] (1) The braiding structure of the ground comb in this invention is a closed braiding structure. Compared with the open braiding structure used in the ground comb of traditional warp-knitted garments, the extension lines of the closed braiding structure overlap each other, making the structure more solid. Even if it is cut, it will not come apart. After the subsequent cutting forms a hollow structure, it can be worn directly without binding and sewing.

[0018] (2) The present invention adopts a rectangular template structure design. The number of weaving loops in the rectangular template is less than that in the traditional flat template. The average time to weave one base layer garment with the flat template is 121.2 seconds, while the average time to weave one base layer garment with the rectangular template is 97 seconds, saving 19% of the weaving time and increasing the machine production efficiency. The cutting line length of the rectangular template is only 46.3% of that of the flat template base layer garment, and the corresponding cutting time is reduced by 53.7%. The cutting process time is reduced, and the overall production efficiency is improved. The traditional seamless base layer garment layout method is five base layers per pattern, with a waste edge of 6 cm on each side. The average waste edge ratio of each base layer garment is 0.375%. The rectangular template layout method of the present invention is 10 base layers per pattern, and the average waste edge ratio of each base layer garment is 0.1875%. The waste edge ratio is reduced to 1 / 2 of the original. The yarn utilization rate of the rectangular template is increased, waste material is reduced, raw material waste is reduced, economic benefits are improved, and it is more environmentally friendly.

[0019] (3) The base garment prepared by the process method of the present invention utilizes the characteristic of the seamless warp knitting machine to form Jacquard tissue in a specific position. Different tissue structures are designed in detail according to the needs of different parts of the human body, which fits the human body, reduces the restraint and pressure on the human body, and improves the wearing comfort. The hollow design at the shoulder position can eliminate tension and prevent pressure on the shoulder. Attached Figure Description

[0020] Figure 1 It is a flat pattern diagram of a traditional seamless base layer garment;

[0021] Figure 2 This is a structural diagram of the rectangular plate of the low-material-consumption seamless hollow base layer of the present invention;

[0022] Figure 3 This is a schematic diagram of the cutting area of ​​the base layer pattern, where (a) is a traditional seamless base layer and (b) is the low-material seamless hollow base layer of the present invention.

[0023] Figure 4 This is a functional zoning diagram of the low-material seamless hollow base layer garment of the present invention;

[0024] Figures 5(a) and 5(b) are the padding yarn diagrams of the ground comb knitting chain structure of the present invention, wherein Figure 5(a) is the ground comb open knitting chain structure of a traditional warp-knitted garment, and Figure 5(b) is the ground comb closed knitting chain structure of the base garment of the present invention.

[0025] Figure 6 This is a schematic diagram of the low-material-consumption seamless hollow base layer garment of the present invention, wherein (a) is the front of the base layer garment and (b) is the back of the base layer garment;

[0026] Figure 7 This is a schematic diagram of the stretching and wearing of the low-material seamless hollow base layer garment of the present invention, wherein (a) is a schematic diagram of each cutting line, and (b) is a schematic diagram of the sleeve stretching and flipping.

[0027] Figure 8 This is a style drawing of the low-material seamless hollow base layer garment of the present invention, wherein (a) is the front and (b) is the back.

[0028] Attached diagram labels: 1. Cuff tightening area; 2. Sleeve elastic area; 3. Neckline reinforcement area; 4. Cutout area; 5. Underarm tightening area; 6. Front chest elastic area; 7. Front chest support area; 8. Back elastic area; 9. Side stretching area; 10. Waist elastic area; 11. Waist tightening area; 12. Cutting area; 13. Detailed Implementation

[0029] To make the above-mentioned objects, features and advantages of the present invention more apparent and understandable, the specific embodiments of the present invention will be further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings.

[0030] Example 1: A process for producing a low-material-consumption warp-knitted seamless openwork base layer garment, comprising the following steps:

[0031] (1) Rectangular pattern template structure design; In the template structure diagram, the sleeves are arranged side by side above the body tube, and the lower part of the sleeves is connected to the body tube to form a rectangular pattern. The shoulder of the rectangular pattern is designed as a hollow structure.

[0032] (2) In the computer software Photoshop, the rectangular pattern of the base garment is divided into functional areas and different Jacquard structures are designed. The functional areas are divided into: cuff tightening area, sleeve elastic area, neckline reinforcement area, hollow cutting area, cutting area, underarm tightening area, front chest elastic area, front chest support area, back elastic area, side stretching area, waist elastic area, waist tightening area and cutting area. Different functional areas are filled with different organizational structures.

[0033] (3) Design diagram of the required filling structure: The software is used to design the filling structure of the functional area. The composite structure in the functional area is filled with the complete pattern cycle in the organization library.

[0034] (4) The double-needle bed Jacquard warp knitting machine is used for weaving, and the weaving is carried out according to the different structures of the functional zones. The sleeves and the body are tightly bonded differently.

[0035] (5) As shown in Figure 5(b), taking the front needle bed as an example, the padding yarn number of the closed chain knitting structure is 1-0-0-0 / / , and the extension lines of the loop overlap each other, making it more secure;

[0036] (6) After the base garment comes off the machine, the sleeves that are connected side by side are cut apart, the sleeves are rotated 180°, and the hollow structure forms a hollow hole on the shoulder. After the edge is bound, the base garment is finished.

[0037] like Figure 6 As shown, this invention features a branched tube structure, including sleeve tubes and a body tube. The sleeve tubes are arranged side-by-side above the body tube and connected to it at the bottom. When worn, the seamless perforated base layer rotates 180° downwards from the shoulder as the apex, aligning with the body tube. The shoulder area stretches to create perforations. The underarm tissue contracts, exhibiting a high elastic elongation and elastic recovery rate, allowing it to conform to the skin during movement.

[0038] The invention utilizes a shoulder cutout to eliminate the tension on the shoulder caused by the garment during sleeve rotation. The shoulder cutout is formed by a horizontal cut, with the cut line length being half the width of the sleeve. The warp-knitted jacquard fabric has the property of not unraveling, and the cutout holes have smooth edges and a soft outline, highlighting the female shoulder line.

[0039] like Figure 7As shown in (a) and (b), the present invention uses a hollowed-out neckline instead of a regular neckline. The hollowed-out neckline is formed by a change in fabric structure; specifically, it uses longitudinally continuous white fabric instead of uniformly continuous red and green fabric. The more continuous white fabric there are, the deeper the neckline. When worn, the hollowed-out holes are stretched laterally, and the fabric between the sleeve hollowed-out and neckline hollowed-out areas covers the shoulders, ensuring balanced pressure on the neckline and shoulders of the seamless hollowed-out base layer, resulting in an aesthetically pleasing appearance.

[0040] This invention relates to a warp-knitted seamless openwork undershirt woven on a double-needle bed Jacquard warp knitting machine, specifically a 24-gauge RDPJ6 / 2 type warp knitting machine with a needle count of 3312. The warp-knitted seamless openwork undershirt features different weave structures in different parts of the garment to achieve varying wearing effects. This invention uses 20dtex-50dtex nylon high-elastic yarn for the base weave, and 10dtex / 20dtex, 20dtex / 50dtex, or 40dtex / 70dtex nylon-spandex covered yarns for the Jacquard combs.

[0041] like Figure 1 The image shown is a pattern for a traditional seamless base layer garment. The total width of the floral pattern on the front and back pieces is 1280mm, the height is 606mm, and the total number of design panels is 387,840.

[0042] like Figure 2 The image shows a rectangular pattern for a low-material-consumption seamless openwork base layer garment. The total pattern width of the front and back pieces is 640mm, the pattern height is 970mm, and the total number of pattern squares is 310,400. The rectangular pattern has fewer weaving loops than the traditional flat pattern. The average time to weave one base layer garment with the flat pattern is 121.2 seconds, while the average time with the rectangular pattern is 97 seconds, resulting in a 19% reduction in weaving time and increased machine production efficiency. The RDPJ6 / 2 Jacquard warp knitting machine has a width of 3212mm. Traditional seamless base layers are laid out with five garments per pattern, with waste edges of 6mm on each side, resulting in an average waste edge ratio of 0.375% per garment. The low-material-consumption seamless openwork base layer is laid out with 10 garments per pattern, resulting in an average waste edge ratio of 0.1875% per garment, reducing the waste edge ratio to half of the original. Example 2:

[0043] like Figure 3 As shown in (a), in the flat pattern, line A is a straight cutting line with 1280 design grids; line B is a curved cutting line with 1790 design grids, for a total of 3070. Figure 3 As shown in (b), line C is the edge cutting line of the rectangular pattern, with 1280 design grids, and line D is the shoulder cutout cutting line, with 140 design grids, for a total of 1420. The comparison shows that the cutting line length of the rectangular pattern is only 46.3% of that of the flat-laid pattern for the base layer, resulting in a 53.7% reduction in cutting time. This reduction in cutting time improves overall production efficiency.

[0044] like Figure 3 As shown in (a), area E represents the main body of a traditional seamless base layer garment, and the gray area F represents the material waste area, including material waste caused by the shoulder curvature, the collar width and depth, and the unequal garment length and sleeve length. The pattern area diagram is imported into Photoshop, and different color blocks are assigned to different areas. Using the magic wand tool to select the cutting area F, the histogram tool shows that the total number of pixels in the tiled pattern is 647,537, the total number of pixels in the cutting area F is 61,805, and the material waste area accounts for 9.54%. Figure 3 As shown in (b), area G is the main body of the low-material-consumption, seamless hollow-out base layer, and the gray area H is the cutting waste area, including the material used in the gap between the two sleeves. Using Photoshop's histogram tool, it can be seen that the total number of pixels in the rectangular pattern is 546,097, and the total number of pixels in the cutting area is 10,334, with the cutting waste area accounting for only 1.90%. The rectangular pattern increases yarn utilization, reduces waste, decreases raw material waste, improves economic efficiency, and is more environmentally friendly.

[0045] like Figure 4 As shown, the warp-knitted seamless openwork base garment of the present invention contains different functional zones and is designed to be filled with different jacquard weaves. In Photoshop software, the pattern and functional zones are shown. The functional zones include cuff tightening zone 1, sleeve elastic zone 2, neckline reinforcement zone 3, openwork cutting zone 4, cutting zone 5, underarm tightening zone 6, front chest elastic zone 7, front chest support zone 8, back elastic zone 9, side stretching zone 10, waist elastic zone 11, waist tightening zone 12, and cutting zone 13.

[0046] When Jacquard combs are used to make warp padding yarns, they form a base fabric called green weave, which is represented by dark gray cells.

[0047] When the Jacquard comb moves in a chain-weaving motion, it forms a mesh on the fabric surface, represented by white cells; when the Jacquard comb moves in a warp-pile padding motion, it forms a thicker ground fabric section, called red weave, represented by light gray cells.

[0048] The design drawings of the required tissue structures were created using WKCAD software from Jiangnan University. Except for all-red and all-green tissues, which could be directly filled, composite tissues required a complete pattern loop to be drawn. The loop was selected using the rectangular marquee tool and saved to the tissue library to prepare for filling. The bmp format structural partition diagram was imported into WKCAD software, and the patterns from the tissue library were used for filling. The Jacquard design drawings for each tissue are shown in Table 1.

[0049] (1) The cuff tightening area 1 and the waist tightening area 12 are filled with red and green faux rib knit. The cuff tightening area 1 uses a faux rib knit of two red and two green, and the waist tightening area 12 uses a faux rib knit of three red and three green.

[0050] Under the same fabric density, the red tissue has better shrinkage performance than the green tissue, resulting in overall tightening of the area and increased pressure and friction between the garment and the body, thus securing the clothing. The cuffs and waist are areas with high friction; in the red-green pseudo-rib knit, the red tissue is thicker than the green tissue and has superior abrasion resistance. During wear, the red tissue is worn down first, protecting the thinner green tissue and increasing the overall abrasion resistance of the area.

[0051] (2) The elastic area 2 of the sleeve and the elastic area 11 of the waist are filled with green tissue;

[0052] The elastic band 2 in the sleeves covers the arms, shoulders, and collarbone area; the elastic band 11 in the waist covers the front waist and back. The total area is relatively large, and the use of green fabric can meet the elasticity and breathability requirements when wearing, providing a high level of elastic comfort.

[0053] (3) The neckline reinforcement area 3 is distributed at the edge of the neckline hollow hole and is filled with denser red tissue;

[0054] The neckline area experiences a lot of friction during daily wear, and red tissue has superior strength and abrasion resistance, so applying it to the neckline can extend the product's lifespan.

[0055] (4) The openwork cutting area 4 is distributed on the shoulder of the seamless openwork bodysuit and is filled with red tissue;

[0056] This area marks the boundary between the shoulder and sleeve. After finishing the garment, a horizontal cut is made in the center of this area, with the cut line length being half the width of the sleeve. This is then stretched to create a perforated opening. Red fabric forms the edge of the perforation, enhancing its abrasion resistance and extending the product's lifespan.

[0057] (5) The cutting area 5 is located between the two sleeves and is filled with green fabric;

[0058] The left and right edges of the waste area 5 are covered with front and back piece connecting structures, which naturally separate after the machine is removed without cutting. During subsequent processing, the waste material can be removed simply by cutting along the cutting area 13 at the lower edge of the waste area 5.

[0059] (6) The underarm tightening area 6 is located on the outer side of both sleeves, at the junction with the garment body. The underarm tightening area 6 is filled with dense red and white tissue;

[0060] With the same weave density, the red weave has a higher finished product density and better shrinkage performance, adapting to the folds of human underarm skin and preventing fabric bunching when worn. The white weave forms a perforated mesh, increasing the overall tensile strength of the area, and the breathability of the mesh structure is much greater than that of the red and green weaves, which is beneficial for moisture wicking and heat dissipation under the armpits, improving wearing comfort.

[0061] (7) The elastic area 7 on the front of the chest and the elastic area 9 on the back are filled with uniform red and green tissue;

[0062] The front chest elastic zone 7 is located between the sleeve elastic zone 2 and the front chest support zone 8, while the back elastic zone 9 is located between the sleeve elastic zone 2 and the waist elastic zone, mainly covering the chest and back. This area provides some protection and support for the chest, with the back elastic zone 9 having a higher proportion of red tissue than the front chest elastic zone 7.

[0063] (8) The anterior chest support area 8 is filled with uniform red and green tissue;

[0064] The anterior chest support area 8 is located between the anterior chest elastic area 7 and the waist elastic area 11, and is filled with uniform red and green tissue to provide a certain support for the female breasts.

[0065] (12) The side stretching area 10 is filled with uniform green and white tissue;

[0066] Primarily distributed on both sides of the garment body, providing significant lateral stretch. Due to the difference in bust and waist circumference among women, the side stretch areas 10 are wider at the top and narrower at the bottom, with a smaller area on the front than the back, resulting in a more fitted silhouette and improved comfort.

[0067] Table 1. Organizational Design of Functional Zones in Warp-Knitted Seamless Hollow-Out Base Layer Garment

[0068]

[0069] This invention utilizes the ability of a seamless warp knitting machine to precisely form jacquard weave, and designs different weave structures in detail according to the needs of different parts of the body. The upper surface is used for weaving; the thicker weave area under the armpits uses alternating red and green weave stripes, resulting in a higher weave density, and the stripe structure facilitates sweat wicking. The openwork areas on both sides of the body not only provide lateral elongation but also facilitate sweating and heat dissipation. The area from the upper chest to the neckline is designed with green weave, making it lightweight and breathable. A support area is added below the breasts, woven with red and green weave. The cuffs and waist incorporate imitation rib weave stripes, ensuring a close fit and preventing bunching. This further improves the comfort of the base layer and enhances its functionality. Figure 5 shows a schematic diagram of the seamless warp-knitted base layer.

[0070] This invention uses nylon filament and nylon-spandex coated yarn as raw materials. Both yarns have excellent tensile recovery properties, high breaking strength, excellent abrasion resistance and fatigue resistance, and good moisture absorption properties, thus extending product life while ensuring product comfort.

Claims

1. A process for producing a low-material-consumption warp-knitted seamless openwork base layer, characterized in that: (1) Rectangular pattern template structure design: In the template structure diagram, the sleeves are arranged side by side above the body tube, and the lower part of the sleeves is connected to the body tube to form a rectangular pattern. The shoulder design and cutting of the rectangular pattern can be formed into a hollow structure. (2) In Photoshop, the base layer of the rectangular pattern is divided into functional areas, and different Jacquard structures are designed. Different structures are used to fill the different functional areas. (3) Design of organizational structure diagram: WKCAD software is used to design the organizational filling of the functional area. The composite organization in the functional area is filled with the complete pattern cycle in the organization library; (4) The double-needle bed Jacquard warp knitting machine is used for weaving, and the weaving is carried out according to the different structures of the functional zones, among which the tension density of the sleeves and the body is different; (5) The ground comb of the double needle bed Jacquard warp knitting machine forms loops on the front needle bed to form a closed chain knitting structure. The loop extensions overlap each other. The padding yarn number of the closed chain knitting structure is 1-0-0-0 / / . (6) After the base garment comes off the machine, the sleeves are cut out with a hollow structure along the cutting area. The sleeves are rotated 180° to both sides of the body, and the hollow structure forms a hollow hole on the shoulder. The base garment is made of nylon high elastic yarn with a nylon-spandex covered yarn for Jacquard combing. The hollow hole on the shoulder is formed by horizontal cutting, and the length of the cutting line is 1 / 2 of the width of the sleeve.

2. The process for producing a low-material-consumption warp-knitted seamless openwork base layer garment according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step (3), the sleeve and the body are separated by the openwork structure at the shoulder. The fabric density of the sleeve is 8, and the fabric density of the body is 7.

3. The process for producing a low-material-consumption warp-knitted seamless openwork base layer garment according to claim 1, characterized in that: The functional areas are divided into the following zones in sequence: cuff tightening zone, sleeve elastic zone, neckline reinforcement zone, openwork cutting zone, cutting zone, underarm tightening zone, front chest elastic zone, front chest support zone, back elastic zone, side stretching zone, waist elastic zone, waist tightening zone, and cutting zone.

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