A skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The present invention proposes a skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The composition comprises ceramide, cholesterol, borneol retinoic acid, α-tocopherol salicylate, and whitening and moisturizing factor, and the mass ratio is 5-7:3-5:10-12:5-7:3-6. The present invention prepares a skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition, which, under the coordinated action of each component, can promote the reconstruction of the skin stratum corneum and barrier function, improve the moisture retention of the skin, promote the smoothing of skin fine lines, repair of the underlying skin, inhibit the production of melanin, whiten the skin, make the skin more firm, elastic, stable, with good antioxidant properties, high safety, and will not cause allergic reactions.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular to a skin anti-wrinkle and repairing composition and a preparation method thereof. Background Art

[0002] Aging, long-term exposure to adverse environmental factors, malnutrition, fatigue, etc. can change the visual appearance, physical properties or physiological functions of the skin. The most significant and obvious changes include the formation of fine lines and wrinkles, reduced elasticity, sagging skin, reduced firmness, uneven or dull skin tone, rough skin surface texture, and the appearance of spots. Changes that occur as the skin ages or experiences long-term environmental damage include a general decrease in cell and tissue activity, a decrease in cell replication rate, reduced skin blood flow, reduced water content, accumulation of structural and functional errors, changes in skin metabolism, and a decrease in the skin's ability to rebuild and repair itself. Although these changes are less obvious, they can also be measured and evaluated by certain methods. Many changes in the skin's appearance and barrier function are mainly caused by changes in the outer epidermal layer of the skin, while other changes, such as wrinkles and sagging skin, are mainly caused by changes in the underlying dermis.

[0003] In order to prevent these phenomena and maintain healthier and more elastic skin, efforts have been made to prepare cosmetics containing various highly effective active substances to maintain the inherent functions of the skin and activate skin cells, thereby effectively slowing down skin aging. However, most of the previous cosmetic raw materials have various problems such as single efficacy, insufficient efficacy, or easy to induce skin side effects.

[0004] Currently, the efficacy of cosmetic raw materials on the market is often relatively single. Formulators need to mix multiple cosmetic raw materials together based on their experience so that the target cosmetics can have multiple functions. However, this work relies heavily on the experience of formulators, with a low success rate. In addition, it is often easy to encounter problems such as the efficacy of multiple cosmetic raw materials deteriorating or bringing certain side effects after combining them together.

[0005] Chinese patent application CN111643427A discloses an anti-aging composition, anti-aging cosmetics and preparation method thereof, which comprises the following components by mass: 0.125-0.375 parts of red ginseng extract, 1.0-4.0 parts of ginseng root water, 0.05-0.2 parts of turmeric root extract, 0.02-0.2 parts of Cistanche deserticola extract, 0.02-0.2 parts of Dendrobium officinale stem extract, 0.02-0.2 parts of Ganoderma lucidum extract, 0.02-0.2 parts of Poria cocos extract, 0.02-0.2 parts of Cornus officinalis extract, 0.02-0.2 parts of Tripterygium wilfordii extract, and 0.02-0.2 parts of Polygonum cuspidatum root extract. It has good antioxidant properties and cell activation effects, can prevent skin aging, and can effectively improve the aging condition of the skin, and has excellent anti-aging effects. However, in this patent, a mixture of plant extracts is used as the main therapeutic effect. However, the skin is exposed to DNA damage caused by ultraviolet rays, and it is difficult for the skin barrier to repair itself quickly. The anti-wrinkle effect is difficult to be stable and sustained. At the same time, the effect of repairing skin damage is not good.

[0006] Chinese patent application CN110613663A discloses a skin repair composition, skin care products and preparation methods thereof, comprising: houttuynia cordata extract, panax notoginseng extract, black ganoderma extract, polygonatum odoratum extract and American ginseng extract. The obtained skin repair composition and skin care products containing the skin repair composition have the effects of replenishing water, moisturizing, sterilizing, anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic repair, enhancing skin's own immunity and anti-aging, and the skin repair liquid product is mild, safe and non-toxic, and suitable for all skin types. However, the composition has the problem of poor stability and can only achieve epidermal repair.

[0007] Chinese patent application CN110934788A discloses a composition, cosmetics and application of plant ceramide for synergistic skin repair, which includes, by mass percentage: 0.01-1% hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, 0.1-5% hydrolyzed royal jelly protein, 0.1-5% glycolipid, 0.1-5% acetyl tetrapeptide-5, 0.1-5% acetyl hexapeptide-8, 0.1-5% milanocarpa leaf / stem extract, 74-99.09% water. The provided composition of plant ceramide for synergistic skin repair can not only achieve the effect of synergistic enhancement, but also can slow down or even remove fine lines around the eyes, crow's feet, and facial nasolabial folds, and at the same time, it can also achieve the effect of synergistic skin repair by activating cell regeneration provided by milanocarpa leaf / stem extract. However, the composition has poor transdermal performance and low bioavailability, and cannot achieve good anti-wrinkle and repair effects. Summary of the invention

[0008] The purpose of the present invention is to provide a skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition and a preparation method thereof. Under the coordinated action of various components, the composition can promote the reconstruction of the skin's stratum corneum and barrier function, improve the skin's moisturizing ability, promote the smoothing of skin fine lines, repair the underlying skin, inhibit melanin production, whiten the skin, make the skin firmer, more elastic, more stable, have good antioxidant properties, are highly safe, and will not cause allergic reactions.

[0009] The technical solution of the present invention is achieved in this way:

[0010] The present invention provides a skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition, comprising ceramide, cholesterol, borneol retinoic acid, α-tocopherol salicylate, and whitening and moisturizing factor;

[0011] The structural formula of the borneol retinoic acid is shown in Formula I:

[0012]

[0013] The structural formula of the α-tocopherol salicylate is shown in Formula II:

[0014]

[0015]

[0016] As a further improvement of the present invention, the mass ratio of ceramide, cholesterol, borneol retinoic acid, α-tocopherol salicylate, and whitening and moisturizing factor is 5-7:3-5:10-12:5-7:3-6.

[0017] As a further improvement of the present invention, the method for preparing bornyl retinoic acid is as follows: retinoic acid, natural borneol, a catalyst and a dehydrating agent are stirred for reaction to obtain bornyl retinoic acid.

[0018] As a further improvement of the present invention, the molar ratio of retinoic acid, natural borneol, catalyst and dehydrating agent is 1-1.1:1:0.05-0.1:1.2-1.3, the catalyst is selected from at least one of 3-4-dimethylaminopyridine, triethylenediamine and 1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene; and the dehydrating agent is dicyclohexylcarbodiimide.

[0019] As a further improvement of the present invention, the preparation method of α-tocopherol salicylate is as follows: α-tocopherol, salicylic acid and a catalyst are stirred for reaction to obtain α-tocopherol salicylate.

[0020] As a further improvement of the present invention, the molar ratio of α-tocopherol, salicylic acid and catalyst is 1:1-1.1:0.01-0.03, the catalyst is concentrated sulfuric acid, the reaction temperature is 150-160°C, and the reaction time is 3-5h.

[0021] As a further improvement of the present invention, the whitening and moisturizing factor includes vitamin C phosphate and panthenol in a mass ratio of 3-5:7-10, and the vitamin C phosphate is vitamin C phosphate sodium salt, vitamin C phosphate potassium salt or vitamin C phosphate magnesium salt.

[0022] The present invention further protects an anti-wrinkle and repairing cosmetic, which is prepared from the following raw materials by weight: 0.2-1 parts of emulsifier, 2-8 parts of polyol, 2-10 parts of natural oil, 1-3 parts of polypeptide, 0.1-0.5 parts of penetration enhancer, 3-5 parts of the above-mentioned skin anti-wrinkle and repairing composition, and 30-50 parts of water;

[0023] The penetration enhancer comprises a penetration enhancer compound and menthol in a mass ratio of 10-12:3-5;

[0024] The structural formula of the penetration-enhancing compound is shown in Formula III:

[0025]

[0026] As a further improvement of the present invention, the emulsifier is carbomer or Tween-80; the natural oil is selected from jojoba oil, camellia seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, sweet almond oil and lithospermum oil; the polypeptide includes acetyl hexapeptide-3 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, with a mass ratio of 5-7:3; and the polyol includes at least one of 1,2-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, propylene glycol and glycerol.

[0027] The present invention further protects a method for preparing the above-mentioned anti-wrinkle repairing cosmetic, comprising the following steps:

[0028] S1. Weigh the skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition, polyol, and natural oil in proportion, stir and mix for 20-30 minutes to obtain phase A;

[0029] S2. Add the polypeptide to water and stir for 10-15 minutes to obtain phase B;

[0030] S3. Add phase B to phase A, add emulsifier and penetration enhancer, emulsify at 10000-12000 r / min for 15-20 min, filter, and discharge to obtain anti-wrinkle repair cosmetics.

[0031] The present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0032] The borneol retinoic acid prepared by the present invention is a vitamin A derivative. After use, the wrinkles of the skin are reduced, the pigmentation is reduced, the softness and smoothness of the skin are improved, the blood circulation is promoted, the metabolism is accelerated, so the pigmentation can be reduced, and the injured dermis can be repaired, new collagen can be synthesized, the elasticity of the skin can be increased, and the aging of the skin can be slowed down. The preparation method of the borneol retinoic acid is simple, the yield is high, and the problem that the retinoic acid is unstable and easily loses its activity due to the influence of light, oxygen, heat and environment can be overcome. At the same time, the problem that the natural borneol is easy to sublimate and has certain toxic and side effects can be overcome. The borneol retinoic acid part of the prepared product can promote the absorption of the underlying skin through the skin penetration promoting effect and play a good skin repair and wrinkle-resistant effect of the vitamin A derivative, and the irritation to the skin is small.

[0033] α-Tocopherol salicylate can increase the moisture content of the skin, improve the moisturizing properties, enhance the smoothness of the skin, control the oil secretion of the skin, promote skin metabolism, help other whitening ingredients penetrate, fade dark spots, shrink pores and tighten the skin. At the same time, it can overcome the high irritation of salicylic acid and the problem of oxygen instability encountered by vitamin E. It has a high yield, a simple synthesis method, and the obtained product is highly safe. It also has the function of promoting skin microcirculation and has a good effect.

[0034] The present invention also adds whitening and moisturizing factors, including vitamin C phosphate and panthenol. Vitamin C phosphate can effectively reduce the activity of tyrosinase, thereby preventing the generation of melanocytes, has a whitening effect, has good stability, promotes skin regeneration, and accelerates metabolism; panthenol has good moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-allergic effects. Under the synergistic effect of the two, they can better promote the repair of the skin muscle base, whiten the skin, and improve the skin's moisturizing performance.

[0035] Ceramide maintains skin moisture by forming a network structure, increases the thickness of the stratum corneum, improves water retention capacity, reduces wrinkles, enhances skin elasticity, and delays skin aging; cholesterol has a smoothing and moisturizing effect, is non-irritating to the skin, does not photosensitize, has mild permeability to the skin, and can also maintain moisture on the skin surface and repair the skin.

[0036] Therefore, the present invention prepares a skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition, which, under the coordinated action of various components, can promote the reconstruction of the skin's stratum corneum and barrier function, improve the skin's moisturizing ability, promote the smoothing of skin fine lines, repair the underlying skin, inhibit melanin production, whiten the skin, make the skin firmer, more elastic, more stable, have good antioxidant properties, are highly safe, and will not cause allergic reactions.

[0037] The present invention prepares an anti-wrinkle repair cosmetic, wherein the added polypeptides include acetyl hexapeptide-3 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, wherein acetyl hexapeptide-3 has a good effect of smoothing skin fine lines, and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 can effectively promote the combination of collagen and glucosamine in skin fibroblasts, tighten the skin, balance the skin tone, and enhance the glossiness and transparency of the skin through hydration and moisturizing.

[0038] In addition, penetration enhancers are added, including penetration enhancer compounds and menthol. Menthol can play a penetration enhancer role by increasing the intracellular calcium ion concentration. The synthetically prepared penetration enhancer compound not only overcomes the problem that natural borneol is easy to sublimate and has certain toxic side effects, but also contains two molecules of natural borneol in one molecule, which improves the penetration enhancer activity of the penetration enhancer compound by improving the permeability of corneal epithelial cells. Therefore, under the synergistic effect of the two, both hydrophilic and lipophilic compounds have obvious penetration enhancer effects, which can significantly improve the anti-wrinkle, repair, anti-inflammatory, whitening, firming and other effects of the active components in the anti-wrinkle repair cosmetics on the skin, and has a synergistic effect. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0039] The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention are described clearly and completely below. Obviously, the described embodiments are only part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of them. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without creative work are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0040] Preparation Example 1 Preparation of Bornyl Retinoic Acid

[0041] Synthesis route:

[0042]

[0043] The method is as follows: 0.105 mol of retinoic acid, 0.1 mol of natural borneol, and 0.07 mol of 1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene are dissolved in 200 mL of dichloromethane in an ice-water bath, 0.125 mol of dicyclohexylcarbodiimide is added, the mixture is protected from light, the temperature is raised to room temperature under nitrogen protection, the reaction is stirred for 4 hours, an equal volume of saturated sodium bicarbonate solution is added to quench the reaction, the organic phase is collected, and the mixture is washed with saturated sodium carbonate solution and deionized water in turn, the organic phase is collected, frozen overnight, filtered, the filtrate is decompressed to remove the solvent, and retinoic acid bornyl ester is obtained by column chromatography (volume ratio of petroleum ether: ethyl acetate is 25:1). Yield: 90.24%, mp: 132-135°C; ESI-MS calculated value: C 30 H 45 O2(M+H)+437.33, found value: 437.3.

[0044] NMR results:1 H NMR (300MHz, CDCl3) δ6.51 (m, 4H), 6.23 (m, 1H), 5.77 (m, 1H), 3.89 (s, 1H), 1.97 (t, 2H), 1.71 (m, 9H), 1 .64-1.65(m, 4H), 1.57(t, 2H), 1.40-1.42(m, 3H), 1.37(t, 2H), 1.21(s, 6H), 1.17(s, 3H), 1.12(s, 6H).

[0045] Preparation Example 2 Preparation of α-tocopherol salicylate

[0046] Synthesis route:

[0047]

[0048] The method is as follows: 0.1 mol α-tocopherol and 0.105 mol salicylic acid are dissolved in 200 mL toluene, 0.02 mol concentrated sulfuric acid is added under shaking conditions, heated to 160°C, stirred for 4 hours, an equal volume of saturated sodium bicarbonate solution is added to quench the reaction, the organic phase is collected, and the organic phase is washed with saturated sodium carbonate solution and deionized water in turn, the organic phase is collected, the solvent is removed under reduced pressure, and column chromatography is performed for separation (volume ratio of petroleum ether: ethyl acetate is 10:1) to obtain α-tocopherol salicylate. Yield 88.74%, mp: 139-141°C; ESI-MS calculated value: C 36 H 55 O4(M+H)+551.40, found: 551.4.

[0049] NMR results: 1 H NMR (300MHz, CDCl3) δ7.97 (d, J=6.5Hz, 1H), 7.34 (m, 1H), 6.97 (m, 1H), 6.88 (d, J=6.1Hz, 1H), 5.0 (br, 1H), 2.55 (t, 2H), 2. 35 (s, 9H), 1.97 (t, 2H), 1.82 (m, 1H), 1.63-1.65 (t, 4H), 1.29 (s, 3H), 1.29 (m, 6H), 1.25 (m, 10H), 1.05 (m, 6H), 1.01 (d, 6H).

[0050] Preparation Example 3 Preparation of penetration enhancing compounds

[0051] Synthesis route:

[0052]

[0053] The method is as follows: 0.1 mol of terephthalic acid and 0.21 mol of natural borneol are dissolved in 200 mL of toluene, 0.5 mL of concentrated sulfuric acid is added under shaking conditions, heated to reflux, stirred and reacted for 5 hours, an equal volume of saturated sodium bicarbonate solution is added to quench the reaction, the organic phase is collected, and washed with saturated sodium carbonate solution and deionized water in turn, the organic phase is collected, the solvent is removed under reduced pressure, and column chromatography is used for separation (the volume ratio of petroleum ether: ethyl acetate is 12:1) to obtain a permeation-enhancing compound. Yield 91.57%, mp: 135-136°C; ESI-MS calculated value: C 28 H 39 O4(M+H)+439.28, found: 439.3.

[0054] NMR results: 1 H NMR (300MHz, CDCl3) δ 8.10 (m, 4H), 3.89 (t, 2H), 1.82 (m, 4H), 1.40-1.42 (m, 6H), 1.36 (t, 4H), 1.17 (s, 6H), 1.12 (s, 12H).

[0055] Test Example 1 In vitro percutaneous absorption test

[0056] 1. Preparation of transdermal absorption drugs;

[0057] Acetyl hexapeptide-3, transdermal absorption enhancer and water were mixed evenly in a mass ratio of 15:1:70 to prepare a transdermal absorption drug. An equal amount of water was used to replace the transdermal absorption enhancer in the blank group.

[0058] Among them, the transdermal absorption enhancers are the permeation enhancing compound prepared in Preparation Example 3, menthol, lauryl azone, natural borneol, and a mixture 1 of the permeation enhancing compound prepared in Preparation Example 3 and menthol in a mass ratio of 10:3, a mixture 2 in a mass ratio of 12:5, and a mixture 3 in a mass ratio of 11:4.

[0059] 2. Preparation of ex vivo skin

[0060] The mice were killed by dislocating the neck, and the abdomen of the mice was dehaired. The abdominal skin of the mice was cut, and the adipose tissue and connective tissue were peeled off without damaging the stratum corneum. The skin was rinsed with fresh saline, the water was absorbed, and stored at 4°C for later use.

[0061] 3. In vitro percutaneous absorption test

[0062] The prepared ex vivo skin was fixed between the drug administration pool and the receiving pool using a Franz diffusion device. The effective penetration area of ​​the diffusion pool was 2.8 cm 2, the stratum corneum faces the supply chamber, and the dermis faces the receiving chamber. Weigh the transdermal absorption drug, place it in the drug administration pool, and apply it evenly on the isolated mouse skin of the same size. Fix the upper and lower chambers, keep stirring at a constant temperature of 37±0.5℃, and take the receiving solution after 0.5, 1, 2, and 4 hours, respectively, and replenish the receiving solution of the same temperature and volume at the same time. Centrifuge the taken receiving solution, filter the supernatant, and use liquid chromatography to detect the concentration of acetyl hexapeptide-3, and calculate the cumulative permeation per unit area Q.

[0063] Cumulative permeability per unit area

[0064] Among them, C n is the drug concentration measured at the nth sampling point; V is the volume of the receiving pool; S is the effective diffusion area.

[0065] Cumulative permeability per unit area K = [Q / m] × 100%

[0066] Wherein, m is the amount of acetyl hexapeptide-3 in 1 g of transdermal absorption drug.

[0067] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0068] Table 1

[0069]

[0070] It can be seen from the above table that the penetration-enhancing compound prepared in Preparation Example 3 of the present invention and mixture 1-3 have a significant effect on promoting the transdermal absorption of acetyl hexapeptide-3.

[0071] Example 1

[0072] This embodiment provides a skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition, comprising the ceramide, cholesterol, borneol retinoic acid prepared in Preparation Example 1, α-tocopherol salicylate prepared in Preparation Example 2, and a whitening and moisturizing factor, with a mass ratio of 5:3:10:5:3. The whitening and moisturizing factor comprises vitamin C phosphate and panthenol, with a mass ratio of 3:7. The components are stirred and mixed evenly to obtain a skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition.

[0073] Example 2

[0074] This embodiment provides a skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition, comprising the ceramide, cholesterol, retinoic acid bornyl ester prepared in Preparation Example 1, α-tocopherol salicylate prepared in Preparation Example 2, and whitening and moisturizing factor, with a mass ratio of 7:5:12:7:6. The whitening and moisturizing factor comprises vitamin C phosphate and panthenol, with a mass ratio of 5:10. The components are stirred and mixed evenly to obtain a skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition.

[0075] Example 3

[0076] This embodiment provides a skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition, comprising the ceramide, cholesterol, retinoic acid bornyl ester prepared in Preparation Example 1, α-tocopherol salicylate prepared in Preparation Example 2, and a whitening and moisturizing factor, with a mass ratio of 6:4:11:6:5. The whitening and moisturizing factor comprises vitamin C phosphate and panthenol, with a mass ratio of 4:8.5. The components are stirred and mixed evenly to obtain a skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition.

[0077] Example 4

[0078] Compared with Example 3, the difference is that the borneol retinoic acid prepared in Preparation Example 1 is not added.

[0079] Example 5

[0080] Compared with Example 3, the difference is that the α-tocopherol salicylate prepared in Preparation Example 2 is not added.

[0081] Example 6

[0082] Compared with Example 3, the difference is that the whitening and moisturizing factor is a single vitamin C phosphate salt.

[0083] Example 7

[0084] Compared with Example 3, the difference is that the whitening and moisturizing factor is a single panthenol.

[0085] Comparative Example 1

[0086] Compared with Example 3, the difference is that the borneol retinoic acid prepared in Preparation Example 1 and the α-tocopherol salicylate prepared in Preparation Example 2 are not added.

[0087] Comparative Example 2

[0088] Compared with Example 3, the difference is that no whitening and moisturizing factor is added.

[0089] Test Example 2 Repairing the skin barrier of mice

[0090] 1. Modeling: Male SPF Kunming mice weighing 20-30 g were selected and anesthetized with 10 mL of sodium pentobarbital aqueous solution injected intraperitoneally. The mice were then fixed and the hair in a circular area with a diameter of about 3 cm in the center of their backs was cut. After disinfection, a circular skin tissue with a diameter of 1.5 cm was cut in the depilated area to establish a mouse skin damage model.

[0091] 2. Grouping and sampling:

[0092] The mice after modeling were randomly divided into a positive control group, a model group, an embodiment 1-7 group, and a comparative example 1-2 group, with 10 mice in each group. The mice were evenly coated with the medicine once every morning at 10:00 and evening at 7:00. The dosage was 0.5 g / mouse for the corresponding skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition for the embodiment 1-7 and comparative example 1-2 groups, 0.5 g / mouse for the positive control group, and 0.5 g / mouse for the Qingdejia gel produced by Smith & Nephew Medical Products International Trading (Shanghai) Co., Ltd., and the model group was given an equal amount of physiological saline. The administration method was to apply directly to the damaged skin. The administration was continued for 10 days.

[0093] The newborn skin of mice was observed with the naked eye every day, and the skin barrier score (scoring system was 100 points) and skin water loss score (scoring standard was unified as the default standard of the instrument) of the injured site were measured using the intelligent skin assessment instrument GPSkin barrier. After the administration, the wound area was measured, the wound healing area was calculated, and the wound healing effect was expressed as the wound healing rate.

[0094] Wound healing rate = wound healing area / original wound area × 100%.

[0095] The results are shown in Table 2.

[0096] Table 2

[0097]

[0098]

[0099] It can be seen from the above table that the skin anti-wrinkle and repair compositions prepared in Examples 1-3 of the present invention can significantly promote wound healing, repair skin barriers, and reduce skin moisture loss.

[0100] Example 8

[0101] This embodiment provides an anti-wrinkle repair cosmetic. The preparation method comprises the following steps:

[0102] S1. 3 parts by weight of the skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition of Example 1, 2 parts by weight of 1,2-butanediol, and 5 parts by weight of jojoba oil were stirred and mixed for 20 minutes to obtain phase A;

[0103] S2. Add 1 part by weight of the polypeptide to 30 parts by weight of water, stir and mix for 10 minutes to obtain phase B; the polypeptide includes acetyl hexapeptide-3 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, with a mass ratio of 5:3;

[0104] S3. Add phase B to phase A, add 0.2 parts by weight of Tween-80 and 0.1 parts by weight of a penetration enhancer, wherein the penetration enhancer comprises the penetration enhancer compound prepared in Preparation Example 3 and menthol, with a mass ratio of 10:3. Emulsify at 10,000 r / min for 15 min, filter, and discharge to obtain an anti-wrinkle repair cosmetic.

[0105] Example 9

[0106] This embodiment provides an anti-wrinkle repair cosmetic. The preparation method comprises the following steps:

[0107] S1. 5 parts by weight of the skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition of Example 2, 6 parts by weight of 1,4-butanediol, 2 parts by weight of propylene glycol, and 10 parts by weight of camellia oil were stirred and mixed for 30 minutes to obtain phase A;

[0108] S2. Add 3 parts by weight of the polypeptide to 50 parts by weight of water and stir for 15 minutes to obtain phase B; the polypeptide includes acetyl hexapeptide-3 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 in a mass ratio of 7:3;

[0109] S3. Add phase B to phase A, add 1 part by weight of Tween-80 and 0.5 part by weight of a penetration enhancer, wherein the penetration enhancer comprises the penetration enhancer compound prepared in Preparation Example 3 and menthol, with a mass ratio of 12:5. Emulsify at 12000 r / min for 20 min, filter, and discharge to obtain an anti-wrinkle repair cosmetic.

[0110] Example 10

[0111] This embodiment provides an anti-wrinkle repair cosmetic. The preparation method comprises the following steps:

[0112] S1. 4 parts by weight of the skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition of Example 3, 5 parts by weight of glycerin, and 7 parts by weight of jojoba oil were stirred and mixed for 25 minutes to obtain phase A;

[0113] S2. Add 2 parts by weight of the polypeptide to 40 parts by weight of water and stir for 12 minutes to obtain phase B; the polypeptide includes acetyl hexapeptide-3 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 in a mass ratio of 6:3;

[0114] S3. Add phase B to phase A, add 0.5 parts by weight of carbomer and 0.3 parts by weight of a penetration enhancer, wherein the penetration enhancer comprises the penetration enhancer compound prepared in Preparation Example 3 and menthol, with a mass ratio of 11:4. Emulsify at 11000 r / min for 17 min, filter, and discharge to obtain an anti-wrinkle repair cosmetic.

[0115] Embodiment 11

[0116] Compared with Example 10, the difference is that the penetration enhancer is a single penetration enhancer compound prepared in Preparation Example 3.

[0117] Example 12

[0118] Compared with Example 10, the difference is that the penetration enhancer is only menthol.

[0119] Embodiment 13

[0120] Compared with Example 10, the difference is that the polypeptide is a single acetyl hexapeptide-3.

[0121] Embodiment 14

[0122] Compared with Example 10, the difference is that the polypeptide is a single palmitoyl pentapeptide-3.

[0123] Examples 15-18

[0124] Compared with Example 10, the difference is that the skin anti-wrinkle and repair compositions are prepared from Examples 4-7 respectively.

[0125] Comparative Examples 3-4

[0126] Compared with Example 10, the difference is that the skin anti-wrinkle and repair compositions are prepared from Comparative Examples 1-2 respectively.

[0127] Comparative Example 5

[0128] Compared with Example 10, the difference is that no penetration enhancer is added.

[0129] The preparation method comprises the following steps:

[0130] S1. 4 parts by weight of the skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition of Example 3, 5 parts by weight of glycerin, and 7 parts by weight of jojoba oil were stirred and mixed for 25 minutes to obtain phase A;

[0131] S2. Add 2 parts by weight of the polypeptide to 40 parts by weight of water and stir for 12 minutes to obtain phase B; the polypeptide includes acetyl hexapeptide-3 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 in a mass ratio of 6:3;

[0132] S3. Add phase B to phase A, add 0.5 parts by weight of carbomer, emulsify at 11000 r / min for 17 min, filter, and discharge to obtain anti-wrinkle repairing cosmetics.

[0133] Comparative Example 6

[0134] Compared with Example 10, the difference is that no polypeptide is added.

[0135] The preparation method comprises the following steps:

[0136] S1. 4 parts by weight of the skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition of Example 3, 5 parts by weight of glycerin, and 7 parts by weight of jojoba oil were stirred and mixed for 25 minutes to obtain phase A;

[0137] S2. 40 parts by weight of water as phase B;

[0138] S3. Add phase B to phase A, add 0.5 parts by weight of carbomer and 0.3 parts by weight of a penetration enhancer, wherein the penetration enhancer comprises the penetration enhancer compound prepared in Preparation Example 3 and menthol, with a mass ratio of 11:4. Emulsify at 11000 r / min for 17 min, filter, and discharge to obtain an anti-wrinkle repair cosmetic.

[0139] Comparative Example 7

[0140] Compared with Example 10, the difference is that no skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition is added.

[0141] The preparation method comprises the following steps:

[0142] S1. 5 parts by weight of glycerol and 7 parts by weight of jojoba oil were stirred and mixed for 25 minutes to obtain phase A;

[0143] S2. Add 2 parts by weight of the polypeptide to 40 parts by weight of water and stir for 12 minutes to obtain phase B; the polypeptide includes acetyl hexapeptide-3 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 in a mass ratio of 6:3;

[0144] S3. Add phase B to phase A, add 0.5 parts by weight of carbomer and 0.3 parts by weight of a penetration enhancer, wherein the penetration enhancer comprises the penetration enhancer compound prepared in Preparation Example 3 and menthol, with a mass ratio of 11:4. Emulsify at 11000 r / min for 17 min, filter, and discharge to obtain an anti-wrinkle repair cosmetic.

[0145] Test Example 2 Anti-skin aging effect

[0146] Healthy 1-month-old nude mice were randomly divided into a normal group (normal feeding, no injection and light treatment), a model group (daily subcutaneous injection of D-galactose 1g / kg in the neck and back, and irradiation of the back skin with mixed long-wavelength 365nm and short-wavelength 254nm ultraviolet rays, with a cumulative irradiation intensity of 260J / cm 2 The cumulative irradiation intensity of short-wavelength ultraviolet rays is 6.5J / cm 2, and smeared physiological saline on the back, 0.2 mL / time, 2 times a day), positive control group (injection and light exposure were the same as the model group, and the French Sisley all-purpose lotion was applied on the back, 0.2 mL / time, 2 times a day), Example 8-18 and Comparative Example 3-7 groups (injection and light exposure were the same as the model group, and the anti-wrinkle repair cosmetics prepared by Example 8-18 and Comparative Example 3-7 were applied on the back, 0.2 g / time, 2 times a day), 10 mice in each group, treated continuously for 4 weeks, the model group showed slow movement and obvious aging signs of back wrinkles, and was killed after stopping the drug treatment for 2 days, about 1 g of back skin was taken, subcutaneous fat and connective tissue were removed, 5 mL of physiological saline was added, broken in an ice water bath, repeatedly frozen and thawed 3 times, homogenized, centrifuged, and the supernatant was taken to determine the superoxide dismutase SOD activity, malondialdehyde MDA content and hydroxyproline HYP content. The results are shown in Table 3.

[0147] Table 3

[0148]

[0149]

[0150] Note: * compared with the normal group, P < 0.05; # compared with the model group, P < 0.05.

[0151] As can be seen from the above table, the anti-wrinkle repair cosmetics prepared in Examples 8-10 of the present invention can significantly increase the skin HYP content, promote skin collagen synthesis, enhance skin elasticity, increase skin SOD activity, reduce MDA activity, and avoid oxidative damage to skin cells.

[0152] Test Example 4

[0153] Healthy female volunteers, aged 35-55 years old, with mild or above eye wrinkles around the eyes, and the exclusion conditions of volunteers meet the inclusion and exclusion criteria of the Diagnostic Criteria and Treatment Principles of Cosmetic Contact Dermatitis. After cleansing the face every morning and evening, the subjects use 1mL of anti-wrinkle repair cosmetics prepared by Examples 8-18 and Comparative Examples 3-7 and similar products on the market each time, and gently massage until absorbed. Other anti-wrinkle skin care products are discontinued during the experiment. The skin around the eyes of the test site is used in the following way: after cleansing the skin every morning and evening, take an appropriate amount of the product and apply it to the skin around the eyes of the test side, massage the skin around the eyes gently with the fingertips, and then press gently to promote product absorption. Use it twice a day, once in the morning and evening. Ensure that each group has 30 valid data. Skin adverse reactions such as skin erythema, itching, tingling, burning, etc. that occur during the test evaluation are recorded, and serious adverse reactions should be reported in time. During the test, clean the test area with water, and sit still for 30 minutes in a constant temperature and humidity environment with a temperature of 25℃±1.0℃ and a relative humidity of 55%±5%RH before data collection. The cycle is 28 days, and skin tests are performed on the 0th day and the 28th day respectively.

[0154] (1) Skin moisture content

[0155] The skin moisture content of the test and evaluation parts of the subjects was measured using a skin moisture meter for 3 times and the average value was taken. The changes in skin moisture content before and after product use and between the test side and the control side were compared.

[0156] (2) Skin elasticity

[0157] The skin elasticity of the test area of ​​the subject was measured using a skin elasticity meter for 3 times and the average value was taken. The effect of the product on skin elasticity was evaluated by comparing the changes in skin elasticity values ​​before and after product use and between the test side and the control side.

[0158] (3) Analysis of crow’s feet area

[0159] The crow's feet area of ​​the face was collected and analyzed using a facial image analyzer, and the anti-wrinkle efficacy of the product was evaluated by comparing the changes in crow's feet area before and after product use and between the test side and the control side.

[0160] Change rate = (test value on day 28 - initial value on day 0) / initial value on day 0 × 100%

[0161] The results are shown in Table 4.

[0162] Table 4

[0163]

[0164]

[0165] It can be seen from the above table that the anti-wrinkle repairing cosmetics prepared in Examples 8-10 of the present invention can significantly improve the skin's moisturizing ability, increase skin elasticity, and improve skin crow's feet.

[0166] The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention and is not intended to limit the present invention. Any modifications, equivalent substitutions, improvements, etc. made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. An anti-wrinkle repair cosmetic, characterized in that: The invention is prepared from the following raw materials by weight: 0.2-1 parts of emulsifier, 2-8 parts of polyol, 2-10 parts of natural oil, 1-3 parts of polypeptide, 0.1-0.5 parts of penetration enhancer, 3-5 parts of skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition, and 30-50 parts of water; The penetration enhancer comprises a penetration enhancer compound and menthol in a mass ratio of 10-12:3-5; The structural formula of the penetration-enhancing compound is shown in Formula III: ； Formula III; The skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition comprises ceramide, cholesterol, borneol retinoic acid, α-tocopherol salicylate, and whitening and moisturizing factor; The structural formula of the borneol retinoic acid is shown in Formula I: ； Formula I; The structural formula of the α-tocopherol salicylate is shown in Formula II: ； Formula II; The whitening and moisturizing factor comprises vitamin C phosphate salt and panthenol in a mass ratio of 3-5:7-10. The vitamin C phosphate salt is vitamin C phosphate sodium salt, vitamin C phosphate potassium salt or vitamin C phosphate magnesium salt.

2. The anti-wrinkle repair cosmetic according to claim 1, characterized in that: The mass ratio of the ceramide, cholesterol, borneol retinoic acid, α-tocopherol salicylate, and whitening and moisturizing factor is 5-7:3-5:10-12:5-7:3-6.

3. The anti-wrinkle repair cosmetic according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method of borneol retinoic acid is as follows: retinoic acid, natural borneol, a catalyst and a dehydrating agent are stirred for reaction to obtain borneol retinoic acid.

4. The anti-wrinkle repair cosmetic according to claim 3, characterized in that: The molar ratio of retinoic acid, natural borneol, catalyst and dehydrating agent is 1-1.1:1:0.05-0.1:1.2-1.3, the catalyst is selected from at least one of 3,4-dimethylaminopyridine, triethylenediamine and 1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene; the dehydrating agent is dicyclohexylcarbodiimide.

5. The anti-wrinkle repair cosmetic according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method of the α-tocopherol salicylate is as follows: α-tocopherol, salicylic acid and a catalyst are stirred for reaction to obtain the α-tocopherol salicylate.

6. The anti-wrinkle repair cosmetic according to claim 5, characterized in that: The molar ratio of α-tocopherol, salicylic acid and catalyst is 1:1-1.1:0.01-0.03, the catalyst is concentrated sulfuric acid, the reaction temperature is 150-160° C., and the reaction time is 3-5 hours.

7. The anti-wrinkle repairing cosmetic according to claim 1, characterized in that: The emulsifier is carbomer or Tween-80; the natural oil is selected from jojoba oil, camellia seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, sweet almond oil and lithospermum oil; the polypeptide includes acetyl hexapeptide-3 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, with a mass ratio of 5-7:3; the polyol includes at least one of 1,2-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, propylene glycol and glycerol.

8. A method for preparing the anti-wrinkle repairing cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: S1. Weigh the skin anti-wrinkle and repair composition, polyol, and natural oil in proportion, stir and mix for 20-30 minutes to obtain phase A; S2. Add the polypeptide to water and stir for 10-15 minutes to obtain phase B; S3. Add phase B to phase A, add emulsifier and penetration enhancer, emulsify at 10000-12000 r / min for 15-20 min, filter, and discharge to obtain anti-wrinkle repair cosmetics.

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