Wool knit vestigial suit and method of making same

Abstract

The present application provides a wool knitted suit without lining and a manufacturing method thereof, comprising: using wool knitted fabric with elasticity and shrinkage after steam ironing as raw material, using internal structure without lining, without chest lining, without shoulder pad, and without sleeve cotton; first, adjusting the pattern according to the stretching property of the fabric on the pattern to make the finished product achieve the desired effect of design; second, adjusting the details of the pattern when using the internal structure without lining, without chest lining, without shoulder pad, and without sleeve cotton; third, calculating the shrinkage of steam iron; at the same time, controlling the sewing size according to the stretching property of the fabric; finally, solving the problem that some wool knitted fabrics are easy to break when using machine needle; finally, achieving the effect of finished garment with size stability, flat and beautiful appearance, comfortable wearing, environmental protection and commuting.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of garment processing technology, specifically to wool knitted unlined suits and their manufacturing methods. Background Technology

[0002] In existing technology, the main raw material for making suits is woven fabric. Woven fabrics generally have little or no elasticity, and their shrinkage rate is relatively small after being steam-ironed. During the garment-making process, heavy and complex internal structures such as chest pads, shoulder pads, and sleeve wadding are used for support.

[0003] The technical problem to be solved by this invention is to overcome the characteristics of wool knitted fabrics, such as elasticity, shrinkage when steam ironed, easy damage when machine-stitched, and lack of chest pad support, by using innovative patterns, processes and sewing methods. In this way, the invention achieves the effect of garments with stable dimensions, flat and beautiful appearance, comfortable wear, and environmental protection for commuting. Summary of the Invention

[0004] To address the shortcomings of existing technologies, the purpose of this invention is to provide a wool knitted unlined suit and its manufacturing method.

[0005] A method for manufacturing a wool knitted unlined suit according to the present invention includes:

[0006] Step S1: Select wool knitted fabric as the raw material for making the suit;

[0007] Step S2: Adjust the pattern according to the stretch properties of the fabric so that the finished garment achieves the preset design effect;

[0008] Step S3: When using an internal structure without lining, chest padding, shoulder pads, or sleeve wainscoting, adjust the pattern including the front panel, raw edges, shoulder seams, and facing body pocket fabric.

[0009] Step S4: Based on the shrinkage rate of steam ironing, control the sewing size according to the fabric stretchability to ensure that the garment size matches the pattern size;

[0010] Step S5: Select elastic thread as the top thread and blind stitch, and make the garment by hand using dot stitching;

[0011] Step S6: Arrange the garments by methods including garment ironing, garment quality inspection, and garment size verification.

[0012] Preferably, step S2 involves reducing the dimensions of the pattern, including shoulder width, chest circumference, waist circumference, front chest width, back width, hem, sleeve width, and cuff, according to preset requirements based on the fabric's stretchability.

[0013] Preferably, step S3 involves: when using an internal structure without lining, chest padding, shoulder pads, or sleeve wainscoting, removing excess excess fabric by using a dart transfer method on the front panel pattern to ensure the front panel is flat and three-dimensional.

[0014] Preferably, step S3 involves: when using an internal structure without lining, chest padding, shoulder pads, or sleeve wainscoting, selecting a method of sewing or burying seams to hide the raw edges of the fabric, so that even without lining, the reverse side of the garment can still be aesthetically pleasing.

[0015] Preferably, step S3 involves: when using an internal structure without lining, chest padding, shoulder pads, or sleeve wainscoting, the straight yarn webbing is concealed at the shoulder seam of the front piece; the straight yarn webbing is an organic cotton straight yarn webbing, a straight yarn webbing made of non-elastic fabric, or a thin cotton straight yarn webbing.

[0016] Preferably, step S3 involves: when using an internal structure without lining, chest padding, shoulder pads, or sleeve wainscoting, manually prying and fixing a section of the main body pocket fabric, and then crisscrossing and concealing the side slits.

[0017] Preferably, the ironing shrinkage rate in step S4 includes: cutting a square piece of fabric, drawing a square frame in the center, and sewing a circle of stitches along the drawn line using a sewing machine; ironing the fabric on a steam ironing board for a preset time to fully pre-shrink the fabric, and then letting the fabric sit for a preset time after pre-shrinking; after the fabric cools down, repeating the above operation twice, and then letting the fabric sit for a preset time before measuring the side length of the sewn square. The side length shrinkage rate is the steam ironing shrinkage rate of the fabric.

[0018] Preferably, the interfacing size is cut according to the pattern size. The interfacing areas include: upper left pocket lip, hem, cuffs, sleeve vents, back vents, pocket flap, pocket opening seam, pocket opening position, upper collar, upper collar lining, lower collar, lower collar lining, inner pocket welt, facing, and front placket. The material is elastic woven interfacing. The drawstring material is a type of interfacing, but the size is selected as 1CM straight grain. The areas include: placket, lapel seam, shoulder seam, collar, facing neckline, chest pocket opening, back vent edge, and sleeve vent edge. The drawstring material is a type of interfacing, but the size is selected as 0.5CM straight grain. The areas include: armhole and back collar. When operating the sewing machine, the fabric should be placed naturally without stretching. While sewing, measure the length of each seam and the width of each part to ensure that the garment size matches the pattern size.

[0019] Preferably, step S5 includes: first using a flatbed sewing machine to tread the stitches that meet the preset requirements, then manually dotting the stitches according to the stitches, and finally removing the sewn stitches.

[0020] For pinholes in the sewing area, use an iron to spray steam to burn them off; when the pinholes are severe and meet the preset requirements, before using an iron to spray steam to burn them off, spray a small amount of water, which meets the preset requirements, on the corresponding location.

[0021] The present invention provides a wool knitted unlined suit, characterized in that it is made using the aforementioned method for manufacturing wool knitted unlined suits.

[0022] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0023] 1. This invention uses innovative patterns, processes and sewing methods to overcome the characteristics of wool knitted fabrics, such as elasticity, shrinkage when steam ironed, easy damage when machine-stitched, and lack of chest pad support. As a result, it achieves the effect of garments with stable dimensions, flat and beautiful appearance, comfortable wear, and environmental protection for commuting.

[0024] 2. This invention solves the problem of knitted fabrics being easily stretched during operation by reducing the size of various parts of the pattern, thereby achieving the desired garment wearing effect as designed.

[0025] 3. This invention achieves a beautiful and clean appearance of the internal structure of clothing by using a sewing process that involves concealing or removing seams.

[0026] 4. This invention achieves the technical effect of stabilizing shoulder dimensions by fixing a 1cm wide and 16cm long organic cotton straight filament strap inside the shoulder seam.

[0027] 5. This invention achieves the technical effect of stable garment dimensions by testing the shrinkage rate of fabrics during steam ironing.

[0028] 6. By using elastic thread and elastic lining, this invention achieves the technical effect of smooth sewing process and flat sewn product.

[0029] 7. This invention achieves a beautiful and fast method of making hand-stitched fabric by first using a flatbed sewing machine to create sparse stitches, then making hand-stitched stitches according to the stitches, and finally removing the sewing machine stitches.

[0030] 8. The present invention uses a hidden pry needle method to fix the overlapping part of the bag fabric and the outer fabric, thereby achieving the technical feature of stable internal structure in the absence of lining fabric.

[0031] 9. The present invention achieves a smooth and aesthetically pleasing back vent of the garment by using the technical feature of fixing the side vents of the suit with concealed seams. Attached Figure Description

[0032] Other features, objects, and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent from the following detailed description of non-limiting embodiments with reference to the accompanying drawings:

[0033] Figure 1 Flowchart of the process for making a wool knitted unlined suit.

[0034] Figure 2 A diagram showing the design adjustments for the main body pattern.

[0035] Figure 3 This is a diagram showing the adjustment scheme for the sleeve pattern.

[0036] Figure 4 This is a graph showing the reduction ratio.

[0037] Figure 5 It is the reverse side structure of an unlined suit.

[0038] Figure 6 This is a diagram showing the dotting points. Detailed Implementation

[0039] The present invention will now be described in detail with reference to specific embodiments. These embodiments will help those skilled in the art to further understand the present invention, but do not limit the invention in any way. It should be noted that those skilled in the art can make several changes and improvements without departing from the concept of the present invention. These all fall within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0040] Example 1

[0041] In the description of this invention, all descriptions with angles and values ​​are preferred for achieving an aesthetically pleasing profile in this embodiment. In actual operation, the angles and values ​​can be adjusted according to commercial costs.

[0042] The main purpose of this invention is to overcome the limitations of wool knitted fabrics, such as elasticity, shrinkage during steam ironing, easy damage when machine-stitched, and lack of chest padding support, by using innovative patterns, processes, and sewing methods. This results in garments that are dimensionally stable, have a neat and beautiful appearance, and are comfortable, environmentally friendly, and suitable for commuting.

[0043] A method for manufacturing an unlined wool knitted suit according to the present invention, such as Figure 1-6 As shown, it includes:

[0044] Step S1: Select wool knitted fabric as the raw material for making the suit;

[0045] Step S2: Adjust the pattern according to the stretch properties of the fabric so that the finished garment achieves the preset design effect;

[0046] Step S3: When using an internal structure without lining, chest padding, shoulder pads, or sleeve wainscoting, adjust the pattern including the front panel, raw edges, shoulder seams, and facing body pocket fabric.

[0047] Step S4: Based on the shrinkage rate of steam ironing, control the sewing size according to the fabric stretchability to ensure that the garment size matches the pattern size;

[0048] Step S5: Select elastic thread as the top thread and blind stitch, and make the garment by hand using dot stitching;

[0049] Step S6: Arrange the garments by methods including garment ironing, garment quality inspection, and garment size verification.

[0050] Specifically, step S1 includes: fabric selection: 96% wool 4% polyurethane, weight 395g / m2; pocket lining selection: washed organic cotton with a 45° twill.

[0051] Specifically, step S2 includes: First, since the knitted fabric is elastic, in order to achieve the design effect, the dimensions of the pattern, such as shoulder width, chest circumference, waist circumference, front chest width / back width, hem, and sleeve width, need to be reduced. For shoulder width 101, each shoulder is reduced by 0.5 cm, for a total reduction of 1 cm; for chest circumference / hem 102, the half circle is reduced by 1 cm, and the full circle is reduced by 2 cm; for waist circumference 103, the half circle is reduced by 1.5 cm, and the full circle is reduced by 3 cm; for front chest width / back width 104, each side is reduced by 0.3 cm, for a total reduction of 0.6 cm; for sleeve width 201, the half circle is reduced by 0.4 cm, and the full circle is reduced by 0.8 cm; for cuff 202, the half circle is reduced by 0.2 cm, and the full circle is reduced by 0.4 cm. Secondly, since the front chest pad and shoulder pads are removed, the excess weight of the front body pattern is removed using the dart transfer method to ensure that the front piece is flat and three-dimensional. The excess weight treated for this fabric is 0.7CM, and the excess weight at the shoulder seam is 0.3CM.

[0052] In this embodiment, the pattern adjustment values ​​are applicable to most conventional knitted suit fabrics, but the data can be adjusted appropriately for other fabrics of special thickness.

[0053] Specifically, step S3 employs the following sewing details: This invention focuses on selecting appropriate seams based on the stretchability of wool knitted fabrics. The width of the seam 401 on the reverse side of the garment is 0.7 cm, or a concealed seam is used. The width of the concealed seam 402 on the reverse side of the garment is also 0.7 cm, to conceal the raw edges of the fabric, achieving a beautiful reverse side even without lining. To prevent the shoulder seam from being stretched, a 1 cm wide and 16 cm long organic cotton straight yarn webbing is cut and concealed at the front shoulder seam (see Figure 405). A section 403 is manually concealed and fixed at the front body pocket fabric, and the side vents are cross-sewn with concealed seams 404. In this embodiment, the optimal width for the seam and concealed seam is 0.7 cm. Other widths are also applicable if design effects require, but adjustments should be made based on fabric properties. In this invention, the optimal size for the organic cotton webbing is 1 cm wide and 16 cm long. The width can be between 0.8 cm and 1 cm, and the length can be adjusted according to the width of the small shoulder. Besides organic cotton, you can also choose other non-elastic fabrics or thin cotton webbing.

[0054] Specifically, step S4 involves: testing the fabric shrinkage rate using steam ironing; cutting a square piece of fabric 301 measuring 80cm x 80cm, and drawing a 50cm x 50cm square frame 302 in the center; then sewing a 50cm x 50cm stitch around the drawn line using a flatbed sewing machine. The fabric is then ironed on a steam ironing board for 10 minutes to fully pre-shrink it. After pre-shrinking, the fabric is left to rest for 1 hour. After the fabric cools, the above operation is repeated twice, and the fabric is left to rest for 24 hours. The side length of the square is then measured; the side length shrinkage rate is the fabric's steam shrinkage rate, which is added to the dimensions of the pattern. In this embodiment, the size of the square can be adjusted according to actual needs, and the steam ironing and cooling time can be longer than the above-mentioned values.

[0055] Specifically, step S5 uses the following: wool knitted fabric is elastic, so elastic thread is selected for the surface thread and the blind seam thread.

[0056] The interfacing is cut to size according to the pattern. The interfacing areas are as follows: upper left pocket lip, hem, cuffs, sleeve vents, back vent, pocket flap, pocket seam, pocket opening, upper collar, upper collar lining, lower collar, lower collar lining, inner pocket welt, facing, and front placket. The material is elastic woven interfacing. The drawstring material is a type of interfacing, but with a 1cm straight grain. The areas are as follows: placket / lapel seam / shoulder seam / neckline / facing neckline / inner chest pocket / back vent edge / inner sleeve vent edge. The drawstring material is also a type of interfacing, but with a 0.5cm straight grain. The areas are as follows: armhole / back neckline. When operating the sewing machine, the fabric should be laid naturally without stretching. Measure the length of each seam and the width of each part while sewing to ensure the finished garment size matches the pattern size.

[0057] Garment dotting stitching; dotting stitching includes: collar edge dotting stitching 501, placket edge dotting stitching 502, handkerchief pocket opening dotting stitching 503, and pocket flap opening dotting stitching 504. The width of the dotting stitch is 0.2 cm, as shown in 505; the distance between two dotting stitches is 0.5 cm, as shown in 506; and the distance from the dotting stitch line to the placket edge is 0.6 cm, as shown in 507. Since machine dotting stitching can damage some knitted fabrics, this invention creates a beautiful and quick method for hand dotting stitching: first, use a flatbed sewing machine to create sparse stitches, then follow the stitches to do hand dotting stitching, and finally remove the sewing stitches. Because there may be needle holes in some sewing areas, it is necessary to use an iron to spray steam to remove the needle holes. If the needle holes are severe, a small amount of water should be sprayed first, and then the needle holes should be removed by steam. In this embodiment, it is best to choose a thinner long thread for the sewing before hand dotting stitching, which is not only smooth but also easy to remove.

[0058] Specifically, step S6 includes: garment finishing; garment finishing includes: garment ironing, garment quality inspection, and garment size verification.

[0059] Specific embodiments of the present invention have been described above. It should be understood that the present invention is not limited to the specific embodiments described above, and those skilled in the art can make various changes or modifications within the scope of the claims, which do not affect the essence of the present invention. Unless otherwise specified, the embodiments and features described in this application can be arbitrarily combined with each other.

Claims

1. A method for manufacturing a wool knitted unlined suit, characterized in that, include: Step S1: Select wool knitted fabric as the raw material for making the suit; Step S2: Adjust the pattern according to the stretch properties of the fabric so that the finished garment achieves the preset design effect; Step S3: When using an internal structure without lining, chest padding, shoulder pads, or sleeve wainscoting, adjust the pattern including the front panel, raw edges, shoulder seams, and facing body pocket fabric. Step S4: Based on the shrinkage rate of steam ironing, control the sewing size according to the fabric stretchability to ensure that the garment size matches the pattern size; Step S5: Select elastic thread as the top thread and blind stitch, and make the garment by hand using dot stitching; Step S6: Arrange the garments by methods including garment ironing, garment quality inspection, and garment size verification; Step S2 involves reducing the dimensions of the pattern, including shoulder width, chest circumference, waist circumference, front chest width, back width, hem, sleeve width, and cuff, according to preset requirements based on the fabric's stretchability. The shoulder width is reduced by 0.5cm on each side, for a total reduction of 1cm. The chest / hem circumference is reduced by 1cm in half a circle and 2cm in a full circle. The waist circumference is reduced by 1.5cm in half a circle and 3cm in a full circle. The front chest / back width is reduced by 0.3cm on each side, for a total reduction of 0.6cm. The sleeve width is reduced by 0.4cm in half a circle and 0.8cm in a full circle. The cuff circumference is reduced by 0.2cm in half a circle and 0.4cm in a full circle. Furthermore, since the front chest pad and shoulder pads are removed, the front panel pattern is adjusted using darts to remove excess material, ensuring a flat and three-dimensional front panel. The excess material treated for this fabric is 0.7cm, and 0.3cm of excess material is removed at the shoulder seams. Step S3 involves: selecting the stretch properties of the wool knitted fabric for the seam removal, with the width of the seam removal on the reverse side of the garment being 0.7 cm or a concealed seam. The width of the concealed seam on the reverse side of the garment is 0.7 cm to hide the raw edges of the fabric. In order to control the shoulder seam size from being stretched, a 1 cm wide and 16 cm long organic cotton straight yarn puller is cut and pressed into the shoulder seam of the front piece; a section is manually pried and fixed at the pocket fabric of the facing body, and the side slits are cross-sewn.

2. The method for manufacturing a wool knitted unlined suit according to claim 1, characterized in that, The ironing shrinkage rate in step S4 includes: cutting a square piece of fabric, drawing a square frame in the center, and sewing a circle of stitches along the drawn line using a sewing machine; ironing the fabric on a steam ironing board for a preset time to fully pre-shrink the fabric, and then letting the fabric sit for a preset time after pre-shrinking; after the fabric cools down, repeating the above operation twice, and then letting the fabric sit for a preset time before measuring the side length of the sewn square. The side length shrinkage rate is the steam ironing shrinkage rate of the fabric.

3. The method for manufacturing a wool knitted unlined suit according to claim 1, characterized in that, The interfacing is cut to size according to the pattern. Interfacing areas include: upper left pocket lip, hem, cuffs, sleeve vents, back vent, pocket flap, pocket seam, pocket opening, upper collar, upper collar lining, lower collar, lower collar lining, inner pocket welt, facing, and front placket. The material is elastic woven interfacing. The drawstring material is a type of interfacing, but with a 1cm straight grain. Areas include: placket, lapel seam, shoulder seam, neckline, facing neckline, chest pocket opening, back vent edge, and sleeve vent edge. The drawstring material is also a type of interfacing, but with a 0.5cm straight grain. Areas include: armhole and back neckline. When operating the sewing machine, the fabric should be laid naturally without stretching. Measure the length of each seam and the width of each part while sewing to ensure the finished garment size matches the pattern size.

4. The method for manufacturing a wool knitted unlined suit according to claim 1, characterized in that, Step S5 includes: first, using a flatbed sewing machine to tread the stitches that meet the preset requirements, then manually dotting the stitches according to the stitches, and finally removing the sewing stitches. For pinholes in the sewing area, use an iron to spray steam to burn them off; when the pinholes are severe and meet the preset requirements, before using an iron to spray steam to burn them off, spray a small amount of water, which meets the preset requirements, on the corresponding location.

5. A wool knitted unlined suit, characterized in that, Made using the method of manufacturing a wool knitted unlined suit as described in any one of claims 1 to 4.

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