Anhydrous solid cosmetic composition comprising combination of decaglyceryl myristate and fatty substance

Abstract

An anhydrous solid cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least 8% of a polyglycerol-10-myristate; b) at least one liquid fatty substance selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils; c) at least one first solid fatty substance having a melting point of less than 30 DEG C; d) at least one second solid fatty substance having a melting point in the range of 30 DEG C to 40 DEG C; and e) at least one third solid fatty substance having a melting point of at least 60 DEG C. Use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for cleaning and / or removing makeup from keratin materials, preferably the face, including lips, eyes and eyelashes.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular cosmetics intended for cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratin materials such as the skin, lips, eye contour or eyelashes, and more particularly to the field of anhydrous solid cosmetic compositions.

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising decaglycerol myristate and a specific combination of fatty substances, intended for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratin materials such as the skin, lips or eyelashes. The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular for the face. Background Art

[0003] Solid cosmetic compositions are becoming increasingly popular, with consumers eager to reduce their impact on the environment. This is because these products have the advantage of consuming very little natural water resources and, compared to aqueous liquid products (transporting water for manufacture and then transporting the product manufactured using water, resulting in significant volume and weight to be transported relative to the weight of the active ingredients), also have the advantage of reducing the carbon impact and costs associated with the amount of water transported. In addition, given their low water content, anhydrous compositions make it possible to limit or even dispense with the use of preservatives, which are usually synthetic and often criticized as allergic or irritating.

[0004] Consumers are also looking for cosmetic compositions with ingredients that are more environmentally friendly and with a high proportion of natural ingredients and / or ingredients of natural origin. Regulations are also developing along these lines to better quantify the extent of ingredients of natural origin in products. In particular, in order to determine the extent of natural origin of the ingredients they develop and manufacture, manufacturers use the NF ISO16128 standard, which defines different categories of ingredients of biological and / or natural origin and provides guidelines for calculating the percentage of ingredients of natural origin in their final raw materials and for assigning a natural origin index to cosmetic ingredients. The use of ingredients of natural origin can have a significant impact on both the feel of a cosmetic product (a texture that feels "pasty", sticky, difficult to apply or that may hinder application) and its stability and homogeneity over time (no oil release or the phenomenon of uncontrolled crystallization that produces perceptible particles in the texture).

[0005] At the same time, proper skin cleansing and removal of stubborn makeup are essential for facial care. Excess sebum and makeup residues can clog pores and promote the appearance of pimples. It is also necessary to be able to perfectly remove makeup before going to bed, because makeup residues can irritate the skin, promote dehydration of the skin barrier through makeup absorption and / or cause premature aging of the skin by preventing epidermal regeneration. However, removing stubborn makeup remains a difficult problem, especially for waterproof mascara, eyeliner, eye shadow, glitter, long-lasting foundation, long-lasting lip products and more generally any so-called "anti-transfer" makeup products. Typical makeup removal products are not enough to remove stubborn makeup and may require repeated pulling and rubbing on the skin and / or delicate areas around the eyes, thus causing irritation. Other cleaning products may contain high-performance surfactants, but these surfactants can cause pulling and / or have a negative impact on the environment due to excessive decontamination. Examples include sulfated surfactants, various amphoteric surfactants (such as coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, or sodium cocoamphodiacetate), and oxyalkylened surfactants (such as those containing polyoxyethylene (PEG) or polyoxypropylene (PPG) units. Finally, other oil-based cleansers can make makeup removal easier, but leave an unpleasant greasy feel on the skin and / or cannot be rinsed off easily enough.

[0006] Anhydrous solid cleansing balms can be used to gently remove makeup and clean the skin, softening under pressure when applied to the skin and / or melting when in hot contact with the skin. However, their effectiveness in removing makeup is variable, and when satisfactory, their composition does not meet environmental issues. For example, we know the anhydrous solid makeup removal composition described in document WO 2019 / 126999, which includes a hydrophobic polymer, a hydrocarbon oil and two surfactants, one of which is a polyglycerol ester. However, these compositions circumvent these difficulties by using a synthetic thickener (hydrophobic polyamide polymer) and a polyoxyalkylene surfactant to achieve sufficient stability and efficacy in terms of makeup removal and rinseability. However, the pollution associated with such ingredients that accumulate and persist in the environment remains a major challenge of our time.

[0007] Finally, consumers are also very demanding about sensory quality and continue to look for products that are easy to remove and apply on the skin, with a pleasant texture that is neither sticky nor tacky when touched, and a feeling of clean skin after rinsing, with a soft, non-greasy, non-sticky film on the skin. Some solid compositions remain quite hard when applied, making them more difficult to spread on the skin and requiring greater pressing or pulling of the skin to be spread, or may produce a feeling of hindered movement when they are applied. Other compositions have a softer solid texture and are more likely to soften or slide when they are applied, but may appear more viscous or have insufficient stability over time, especially changes in appearance over time and / or changes in consistency over time. In fact, during stability testing under accelerated conditions with various temperature rise and fall cycles, soft solid compositions may decompose, then reconstruct differently or recrystallize in different forms, and have, for example, an uneven or blocky appearance (agglomerates), a granular structure (crystallization in the form of particles), oil release on the surface, and / or the consistency of the composition increases or decreases over time.

[0008] Therefore, the technical challenges involved in formulating solid cleansing balms and / or make-up removers with a high proportion of ingredients of natural origin that are effective and stable over time are numerous. Therefore, their manufacture requires real expertise to meet the various criteria of performance, use and feel.

[0009] Therefore, there remains a need for solid cleansing cosmetic compositions that can effectively remove makeup and rinse off easily, leaving the skin feeling clean, soft and comfortable after use, without the impression of dryness or residual greasy film.

[0010] There is also a need to formulate cosmetic compositions with a high content of natural ingredients and / or natural origin, and in particular without synthetic polymers or polyoxyalkylene surfactants. In particular, there is a need for cosmetic compositions comprising, for example, at least 90% of ingredients of natural origin, a standard that is increasingly expected by consumers.

[0011] There is also a need for easy-to-use, non-sticky, non-tacky solid cleansing cosmetic compositions that are easy to remove (e.g., with fingers or a spatula) and yet easy to spread on the skin, have a softer, more melty texture and do not feel restricted movement or pulling as they are applied.

[0012] At the same time, there is a need for cosmetic compositions having good stability and homogeneity over time (no release or crystallization phenomena), in particular cosmetic compositions that are stable and preserved throughout the product storage period, which can be up to several months after the product has been opened by the end user.

[0013] The Applicant's contribution is to propose a new cosmetic composition which surprisingly solves all these problems. Summary of the invention

[0014] According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is an anhydrous solid cosmetic composition comprising:

[0015] a) at least 8% by weight of polyglycerol-10-myristate relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0016] b) at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from hydrocarbon oils, preferably non-polar (Npl);

[0017] c) at least one first solid fatty substance (S1) having a melting point below 30°C;

[0018] d) at least one second solid fatty substance (S2) having a melting point in the range of 30°C to 40°C; and

[0019] e) at least one third solid fatty substance (S3) having a melting point of at least 60°C.

[0020] After extensive studies, the inventors have demonstrated that it is possible to provide soft solid cosmetic compositions with high contents of ingredients of natural origin, which are effective and stable over time and which also have organoleptic properties comparable to those of compositions comprising ingredients of petrochemical origin.

[0021] Surprisingly, the combination according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a sufficient consistency or hardness to package the composition in a jar, for example in the form of a balm texture, but at the same time it is flexible enough to be easily grasped (for example with the fingers or using a spatula), without being sticky or "gummy" (removing the right amount without forming "threads" or "lumps"). The composition according to the invention has an unusual texture, being both relatively firm and soft.

[0022] The combination of the invention meets the organoleptic criteria by producing a solid composition that is sufficiently soft and melts when applied. In fact, under the effect of pressure on the skin and the heat of the skin, the composition transforms into an oil that allows it to spread easily on the skin and glide smoothly. Its softness and ability to melt thus allow the composition to be massaged into the face, for example, without hindered movement or the sensation of pulling the skin.

[0023] Surprisingly, this specific combination of ingredients allows us to meet the performance criteria of having effective cleansing, even for stubborn make-up (such as waterproof make-up), and having good rinsability (the composition is easily rinsed off with water). Moreover, surprisingly, when rinsed off with water, the composition (which is oily on the skin) transforms into a milky emulsion (which turns white on contact with water) and takes away make-up residues and impurities, leaving the skin clean, without residue or oily film on the skin.

[0024] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention cleanses effectively while protecting the epidermis, without drying or irritating it. After rinsing, it leaves the skin softened, soft and nourished, with a clean skin finish and without the feeling of an oily or greasy film.

[0025] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention meets the criteria of use and stability: the combination produces a viscous and soft solid with good stability over time (particularly under accelerated conditions at 50° C. and after storage in temperature cycles). The composition remains homogeneous, without oil release or exudation, even when the composition is crushed (e.g. under repeated effects of pressure when taking the composition out of a jar). The soft solid composition according to the invention also has a consistency that is constant over time.

[0026] Surprisingly, the specific combination of ingredients demonstrated by the inventors makes it possible to obtain compositions with a very high level of naturalness, which are high performing, pleasant sensory and all at the same time stable, without the need to use synthetic or petrochemical thickeners and / or surfactants, such as for example synthetic polymers or polyoxyalkylene surfactants.

[0027] Finally, the composition according to the invention respects the skin, including the delicate area around the eyes, and meets eye safety requirements as well as preservation requirements by limiting or even dispensing with preservatives.

[0028] The composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application to the skin. It can be used for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratin materials such as the skin, lips or eyelashes. It can be used, for example, on the face, eyes, hands, body or even hair. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is intended for cleaning and / or removing make-up from the face and / or eyes (including eyelashes). Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is intended to be rinsed with water.

[0029] Another subject of the invention is the use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratin materials, preferably the face, including lips, eyes and eyelashes. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0030] General terms used herein are defined as follows.

[0031] The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0032] The expression “comprising” encompasses the expression “consisting of”.

[0033] The expression "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive.

[0034] The expressions "between and", "less than" or "greater than" should be understood as excluding boundaries.

[0035] The name "INCI" means the name of a cosmetic ingredient according to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.

[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic composition" refers to a composition suitable for external topical application. It comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier, i.e. a carrier compatible with keratin materials, in particular the skin (body, face, eye contour, eyelids), lips and eyelashes. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is a cleanser and / or a make-up remover, preferably a rinse-off product. The cosmetic composition may also comprise one or more additives, the one or more additives comprising active ingredients, emollients and fragrances. It may have moisturizing, soothing and / or protective properties for the skin. It may also promote eyelash repair and strengthening.

[0037] For the purposes of the present invention, "keratinous material" means human skin, lips, hair, eyelashes and nails.

[0038] The term "solid" characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). This means that the composition has a sufficiently high consistency to retain its shape during storage. In other words, the composition does not flow under its own weight. The solid state can be described by the "hardness" of the composition, which defines its resistance to deformation, in particular to penetration by harder objects.

[0039] For the purposes of the present invention, an "anhydrous composition" means a composition having a water content of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, even more particularly less than 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In particular, no water is added during the preparation of the composition and the water content corresponds to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

[0040] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains at least 90% of ingredients of natural origin, preferably at least 94% of ingredients of natural origin. More preferably, the composition according to the invention contains at least 97% of ingredients of natural origin, preferably at least 99% of ingredients of natural origin. The percentage of ingredients of natural origin is calculated according to the principles of the NF ISO 16128 standard. Surprisingly, the specific combination of ingredients demonstrated by the inventors makes it possible to obtain compositions with a very high degree of natural origin, combining at the same time the organoleptic properties and stability characteristics of compositions obtained with ingredients of synthetic or petrochemical origin.

[0041] For the purposes of the present invention, a "natural" ingredient is an ingredient (or substance) that occurs in nature (obtained from plants, animals, microorganisms or minerals), is not transformed, or is obtained only from physical processes. For example, the ingredient can be extracted and / or processed mechanically or by gravity, by dissolving in water, by maceration, by water extraction, by distillation, by grinding, by pressurization, by flotation, by sedimentation, by filtration, etc. The natural origin index of a natural ingredient determined according to standard NF ISO 16128 is 1 (ingredient 100% natural origin). As natural ingredients, mention may be made, for example, of water, plant extracts in which the solvent used is natural (water or other natural solvents), parts of plants or seeds, vegetable oils, mineral ingredients, etc.

[0042] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "naturally derived ingredient" refers to a chemically extracted and / or treated natural ingredient which has undergone a small and limited number of chemical transformations. These transformations and chemical processes may be carried out according to the principles of green chemistry (as opposed to petrochemical processes involving petroleum derivatives) and are listed, for example, in standard NF ISO 16128. The natural origin index of a "derived natural" ingredient calculated according to the NF ISO 16128 standard is greater than 0.5 (i.e. it contains a proportion of molecular mass that is greater than 50% that is taken from nature).

[0043] The term "ingredient of natural origin" herein encompasses both "natural" ingredients and "derived natural" ingredients as defined above. Ingredients of natural origin have a natural origin index calculated according to the NF ISO 16128 standard of greater than 0.5 and less than or equal to 1. In contrast, ingredients that are synthetic or primarily derived from fossil fuels have a natural origin index of 0.

[0044] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not contain synthetic thickeners and / or polyoxyalkylene surfactants. In fact, the specific combination according to the invention makes it possible to obtain high-performance, stable compositions without the need to use these ingredients.

[0045] For the purposes of the present invention, "surfactant" or "emulsifier" means any compound or mixture of compounds capable of increasing the kinetic stability of an emulsion. Within the meaning of the present invention, this term refers to amphiphilic compounds, i.e. those having a hydrophilic (polar) part and a lipophilic (non-polar) part, as defined, for example, by IUPAC. Examples include nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants.

[0046] According to the present invention, the term "polyoxyalkylene surfactant or emulsifier" encompasses an emulsifier having at least one polyoxyalkylene chain (repeating oxyalkylene units), such as a chain comprising repeating oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units. This term includes emulsifiers having polyoxyalkylene side groups and / or terminal groups, such as polyoxyethylenated (or POE) and / or polyoxypropylenated (or POP) emulsifiers.

[0047] In the context of the present invention, the term “synthetic thickener” (also referred to herein as synthetic gelling agent) means a polymer of synthetic origin which, thanks to its presence, makes it possible to increase the viscosity of the composition in which it is introduced.

[0048] Unless otherwise indicated, the term "free" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, that the weight content of the substance is less than or equal to 0.2%, preferably less than or equal to 0.1%, more preferably less than or equal to 0.05%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains no organosilicon compounds.

[0050] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of preservatives.

[0051] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a soft solid.

[0052] "Soft solid" means a texture that does not flow under its own weight but can be deformed by pressure (e.g., with fingers). Its consistency is malleable and easy to grip. For example, it can be similar to butter (without fat). For example, when the composition is packaged in a jar at room temperature (25°C) and the jar is inverted, the composition does not flow under its own weight for at least 12 hours, preferably at least 24 hours. The composition can be easily shaped by hand, and can also be easily broken by hand to remove only the necessary amount of product.

[0053] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a penetration depth at 20°C in the range from 8 to 25 mm, preferably from 8 to 22 mm, more preferably from 10 to 22 mm.

[0054] The penetration depth is used to measure the consistency and / or plasticity of a sample (particularly a pasty, creamy, semi-solid or high viscosity sample). It is measured here by permeametry using a PNR 12 penetrometer equipped with a 102.5g SETA ASTM-IP standardized calibration cone (Petrotest reference 18-0101), with a penetration time of 10 seconds. The test sample (whose surface is horizontal) is filled into a penetration jar (90mm diameter, 110mm high screw cap jar) and placed in a constant temperature oven at 20°C for at least 12 hours. The jar is centered relative to the grid on the base support of the penetrometer equipped with a penetration cone. The tip of the penetration cone is adjusted to the sample surface. At the start of the measurement, the cone falls freely under its own weight into the sample for a period of 10 seconds. The penetration depth is recorded and expressed in mm. The deeper the penetration depth, the more inconsistent the composition.

[0055] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may have a dropping point in the range of 55 to 75° C., preferably 57 to 70° C. This is advantageous not only for industrial processing but also for the stability and application of the composition according to the invention.

[0056] The dropping point represents the temperature at which a drop of a liquid molten product falls from a gradually heated calibrated cup (with a pierced bottom). The dropping point is determined according to ASTM-D 3954 using a Metler Toledo DP70 (dropping point system). More precisely, the composition is heated until all ingredients have melted and then poured into a calibrated cup. Before measuring the dropping point, the cup is left at room temperature (25° C.) for at least 20 minutes. The cup is then placed in a DP70 meter at a heating rate of 1° C. / min.

[0057] The composition according to the invention may be single-phase or may be in the form of a dispersion of two immiscible phases.

[0058] The term "single-phase composition" refers to a composition containing only one homogeneous phase. Such a composition is different from a dispersion of two phases that are immiscible with each other at room temperature (also called an emulsion), which contains a dispersed phase (or discontinuous phase) in the form of droplets in a dispersed phase (called a continuous phase). A single-phase composition is also different from a two-phase composition consisting of two separate and distinct phases (especially a hydrophilic phase and an oil phase), which requires pre-stirring to form an emulsion before application.

[0059] The composition according to the invention may also take the form of a dispersion of two phases that are immiscible with each other at room temperature (25° C.), in particular a dispersion of a hydrophilic phase (composed of a hydrophilic component) in a lipophilic phase (or fatty phase). Examples of hydrophilic components capable of forming a hydrophilic phase include short-chain monohydric alcohols, for example C1 to C4 (such as ethanol, isopropanol); linear or branched polyols, for example containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms (such as butanediol, glycerol or glycerol, sorbitol, etc.); and mixtures thereof. When the composition according to the invention is in the form of a dispersion, the weight content of the hydrophilic phase is at most 10%, preferably at most 7%, more preferably at most 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] Macroscopic analysis (with the naked eye) of the composition according to the invention shows a homogeneous appearance, whether the composition is in a single phase or in the form of a dispersion.

[0061] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is single-phase.

[0062] Polyglyceryl-10-myristate :

[0063] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 8% by weight of polyglycerol-10-myristate.

[0064] Polyglycerol-10-myristate is known as a skin care agent and is also used as a nonionic surfactant, typically for stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions (or O / W emulsions). It is an ester of myristic acid and decaglyceryl (or a polyglyceryl comprising 10 glycerol units). It can be obtained after reacting one (or more) fatty acids (myristic acid, preferably of plant origin) with decaglyceryl (a glycerol homopolymer comprising 10 glycerol units), which decaglyceryl itself can be obtained by the condensation of vegetable glycerol. Therefore, it can be a monoester, diester, triester or polyester of myristic acid and decaglyceryl. Preferably, esters or ester mixtures with a low degree of esterification are used, such as, for example, decaglyceryl and myristic acid monoesters, diesters or triesters. More preferably, polyglycerol-10-myristic acid is a monoester (decaglycerol monomyristate, CAS 87390-32-7) of decaglyceryl and myristic acid.

[0065] Preferably, polyglycerol-10-myristate is of natural origin.

[0066] Nonlimiting examples of polyglyceryl-10-myristate include products sold under the name of S FACE M-1001 (sold by ROSSOW COSMETIQUES) or SUNSOFT Q-14S-C (MB) (manufactured by TAIYO KAGAKU Co., Ltd.).

[0067] The weight content of polyglycerol-10-myristate in the composition according to the invention is at least 8% relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the weight content of polyglycerol-10-myristate is at least 10%, preferably at least 12%, more preferably at least 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible to combine improved stability and flushability of the composition according to the invention.

[0068] Preferably, the content by weight of polyglycerol-10-myristate in the composition according to the invention is less than 25%, preferably less than 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional surfactant. "Additional surfactant" means a surfactant different from polyglycerol-10-myristate as defined above. Examples include nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants. Preferably, at least one additional surfactant is nonionic.

[0070] Advantageously, polyglycerol-10-myristate is the main surfactant. In other words, if other additional surfactants are present in the composition according to the invention, the weight content of polyglycerol-10-myristate is greater than the total weight content of the other surfactants in the composition. That is, the weight content of polyglycerol-10-myristate accounts for more than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the surfactants in the composition. For example, in the case of a composition with a polyglycerol-10-myristate content of 10% by weight, the sum of the weight contents of the other surfactants present is less than 10% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] According to one advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of polyoxyalkylene surfactants.

[0072] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be free of other nonionic surfactants. In other words, polyglycerol-10-myristate is the only nonionic surfactant in the composition according to the invention.

[0073] According to a more specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be free of other surfactants. In other words, polyglycerol-10-myristate is the only surfactant in the composition according to the invention, i.e. the composition does not contain any other nonionic surfactants, nor any ionic surfactants (such as anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants).

[0074] Fatty substances :

[0075] The composition according to the invention comprises various fatty substances (liquid and solid).

[0076] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "fatty substance" means a substance which is 5 The fatty substance is an organic compound that is immiscible in water at 1000 rpm and 760 mm Hg. More particularly, the water solubility of such compounds is less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. Such compounds generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. Generally, the fatty substance may be a hydrocarbon, an organosilicon or a fluorinated one.

[0077] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon" refers to a compound containing at least one hydrocarbon group (i.e., a group containing hydrogen and carbon atoms) and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. The hydrocarbon compound may, for example, contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. More particularly, in the context of the present invention, the hydrocarbon compound does not contain silicon or fluorine atoms.

[0078] For the purposes of the present invention, "organosilicon" means a compound comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, such as an organopolysiloxane.

[0079] The term "fluorinated" refers to compounds containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0080] In the context of the present invention, fatty substances are preferably hydrocarbon-based, in particular of natural origin.Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are free of silicone-containing fatty substances and fluorinated fatty substances.

[0081] Fatty substances at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa; 760 mm Hg) can be liquid or solid. Solid fatty substances (or non-liquid fatty substances) are usually used as structurants in cosmetic compositions, for example to increase the thickness of the composition or to increase the viscosity of the fatty phase.

[0082] In the context of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from hydrocarbon oils, more particularly from apolar hydrocarbon oils, and at least three different solid fatty substances as defined below.

[0083] Non-polar liquid (Npl) Fatty substances :

[0084] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from nonpolar hydrocarbon oils (Npl).

[0085] "Oil" means oil at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa; 760mm Hg) is a "fatty substance" that is liquid below.

[0086] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil consisting essentially of carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, or an oil consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and does not contain silicon or fluorine atoms. For example, it may contain ester, ether or carbonate groups.

[0087] For the purposes of the present invention, "non-polar oil" means a non-polar or slightly polar oil. In particular, the solubility parameter δ at 25°C is a Less than 7(J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 of oil.

[0088] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in CM Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). The total solubility parameter δ is decomposed into three components (δ 2 =δ D 2 +δ P 2 +δ H 2 ):

[0089] -Parameter δ D , which characterizes dispersion and is related to the London dispersion force (Van der Waals interaction)

[0090] -Parameter δ P , which characterizes polarity and is related to the Debye interaction force between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction force (dipole moment) between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles

[0091] -Parameter δ H , which characterizes other specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding).

[0092] Parameter δ a Determined by the following equation: a =(δ P 2 +δ H 2 ) 1 / 2 Parameter δ D , δP , δ H and δ a In (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 In particular, alkanes have a relative humidity of 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 The parameter δ a . Document WO2016 / 096628 also gives the δ of different oils a Example of value.

[0093] Preferably, the non-polar hydrocarbon oil has an interfacial tension greater than 30 mM / m at 23°C.

[0094] Interfacial tension (sometimes also called polarity index or liquid-liquid interfacial tension or IFT) is measured when two immiscible phases are in contact (in this case, oil and water) and is related to the cohesive forces between the molecules within the phases and the intermolecular forces present at the interface between the two phases. It can be affected by the polarity of the molecules. Interfacial tension can be measured by the "hanging drop" method using the Dataphysics OCAH 200 (DataPhysics Instruments GmbH, Germany) as described in document WO2021 / 180922. Values ​​for oil interfacial tension are also given in the "Emollient Jockey" numerical tool from BASF.

[0095] Examples of non-polar oils that can be used include hydrocarbons containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms, hydrocarbon oils containing more than 16 carbon atoms, monoethers containing at least 12 carbon atoms (containing only one ether group), dialkyl carbonates whose alkyl groups contain at least 6 carbon atoms, and certain fatty monoesters (or fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters containing only one ester group) containing at least 16 carbon atoms. In the context of the present invention, these examples exclude the corresponding hydroxylated oils, i.e., those containing one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH). Vegetable oils (containing triglycerides and fatty acids), glycerides, fatty alcohols, and silicone oils are also excluded from the definition of non-polar oils.

[0096] The hydrocarbons containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched and may be of mineral, plant or synthetic origin. The C6-C16 hydrocarbons are preferably of plant origin. They are preferably alkanes. For example, n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), n-hexadecane (C16), mixtures of alkanes (e.g., undecane and tridecane) may be mentioned. Examples include the oil sold by Biosynthis (France) as VEGELIGHTSILK (INCI name: C9-C12 alkanes), and the oil sold by BASF (France) as CETIOL ULTIMATE (INCI name: undecane (and) tridecane (and) tocopherol).

[0097] The hydrocarbon oils containing more than 16 carbon atoms may be straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated. They may be of mineral, plant or synthetic origin, preferably of plant origin. An example is squalane (preferably of plant origin). Other examples of hydrocarbon oils include paraffin oil, vaseline, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutene.

[0098] Useful dialkylated monoether oils have a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, non-hydroxylated alkyl group containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. More particularly, useful ether compounds may have the formula RO-R', wherein R and R' are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, non-hydroxylated alkyl groups containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. For example, these may be fatty acid ethers. More particularly, the alkyl group may contain 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples include dicaprylyl ether, distearyl ether, diisononyl ether or mixtures thereof.

[0099] Available dialkyl carbonates have a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated non-hydroxylated alkyl group containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. In other words, available carbonates can have the formula ROC (O) -O-R ', wherein R and R ' are straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated non-hydroxylated alkyl groups containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. More particularly, the alkyl group can contain 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples include dicaprylyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate or mixtures thereof.

[0100] Useful "fatty" monoesters have a single ester group and contain at least 16 carbon atoms. They have at least two linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, non-hydroxylated alkyl groups containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms, more preferably at least 10 carbon atoms. More particularly, useful ester compounds may have the formula RC(O)-O-R', wherein R and R' are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, non-hydroxylated alkyl groups independently containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms, more preferably at least 10 carbon atoms. Examples include fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols. More particularly, the alkyl groups R and R' may independently contain 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of useful monoesters include decyl oleate (INCI name: DECYL OLEATE), hexyl decyl stearate (INCI name: HEXYLDECYL STEARATE), ethylhexyl stearate (INCI name: ETHYLHEXYL STEARATE), ethylhexyl palmitate (INCI name: ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE), propylheptyl octanoate (INCI name: propylheptyl octanoate), hexyl laurate (Hexyl laurate), isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, and the like.

[0101] Preferably, the non-polar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from alkanes containing at least 8 carbon atoms, olefins containing at least 8 carbon atoms, dialkylated monoethers whose alkyl chain contains at least 6 carbon atoms, dialkylated carbonates whose alkyl chain contains at least 8 carbon atoms, monoesters whose alkyl chain contains at least 8 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0102] More preferably, the nonpolar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from alkanes containing at least 8 carbon atoms, olefins containing at least 8 carbon atoms, dialkylated monoethers whose alkyl chain contains at least 8 carbon atoms, dialkylated carbonates whose alkyl chain contains at least 8 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0103] Advantageously, the nonpolar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from alkanes comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, olefins comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, dialkylated monoethers whose alkyl chain comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0104] Preferably, the non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) is of vegetable origin.

[0105] The weight content of nonpolar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) in the composition according to the invention may be at least 10%, preferably at least 15%, preferably at least 20%, most preferably at least 25% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] Furthermore, the content by weight of non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) in the composition according to the invention may be at most 40%, preferably at most 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Preferably, the weight content of nonpolar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) in the composition according to the invention is between 15% and 40%, preferably between 20% and 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and organoleptic properties of the composition.

[0108] Solid fatty substances :

[0109] The composition according to the invention comprises at least three solid fatty substances:

[0110] - at least one first solid fatty substance (S1) having a melting point below 30°C;

[0111] - at least one second solid fatty substance (S2) having a melting point in the range of 30°C to 40°C; and

[0112] - at least one third solid fatty substance (S3) having a melting point of at least 60°C.

[0113] "Solid fatty substances" (or "non-liquid fatty substances") are substances that are solid and have a solid structure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10 5 Pa; 760mmHg) is solid or substantially solid compound. Solid fatty substances can be crystalline, amorphous or pasty. These can be compounds with a melting point higher than 25°C, or compounds with liquid and solid parts at 25°C. Examples of solid fatty substances include solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols (such as myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, etc.), solid fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters (e.g. octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl caprylate, octyl caprylate, etc.), solid fatty ethers, ceramides, solid monoglycerides, diglycerides or triglycerides, waxes or pasty fatty substances (e.g. butter). These can be, for example, waxes or pasty fatty substances.

[0114] The term "wax" means wax at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa; 760mmHg) under the solid compound, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, and a melting point above about 45 ° C. Waxes usually show anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, waxes can be of plant origin (sunflower, rice, candelilla wax (Candellila), hydrogenated castor oil, cork or sugar cane fiber wax, etc.), animal (beeswax, lanolin wax, lanolin derivatives, etc.), mineral (paraffin, petrolatum, ozokerite, lignite, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, etc.) or synthetic (polyolefins, such as polyethylene wax, polyalphaolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, etc.).

[0115] For the purposes of the present invention, a "pasty fatty substance" refers to a fatty substance that has a reversible solid / liquid state change at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and comprises a liquid portion and a solid portion. For example, the solid portion of a pasty compound measured at 25°C may account for 10% to 90% by weight of the compound. In other words, the initial melting temperature of the pasty compound may be lower than 25°C. The pasty compound also has a final melting temperature that may be, for example, lower than 60°C. For the purposes of the present invention, the end melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted. The measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the melting end temperature can be carried out according to the scheme described in document WO 2020 / 127383. The pasty compound may have an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state.

[0116] The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the one sold by TA Instruments under the name "DSC Q100" with "TA Universal Analysis" software. Document WO 2022 / 003026 describes a measurement protocol that is applicable depending on whether the solid fatty substance is a wax or a pasty compound.

[0117] A first solid fatty substance (S1) having a melting point below 30°C :

[0118] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one first solid fatty substance having a melting point below 30°C, preferably less than or equal to 28°C. This provides the solid composition according to the invention with a smooth, creamy texture. For example, the solid fatty substance may have a melting point between 20°C and 30°C, preferably between 22°C and 28°C. For example, it may be a pasty fatty substance (comprising both liquid and solid parts at 25°C) or a compound (or mixture of compounds) having a melting point between 25°C and 30°C (e.g. solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, mixtures of such fatty substances, etc.). Preferably, the first solid fatty substance is a pasty fatty substance.

[0119] Preferably, the first solid fatty material is of natural origin.

[0120] Examples of useful first solid fatty substances (S1) include the solid fatty acids manufactured by LABORATOIRES PROD'HYG (France) under the name " 24 / 26" (INCI name: COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL) or a pasty solid sold under the name DUB SOLIDE (INCI name: STEARYL HEPTANOATE (and) STEARYL CAPRYLATE, and with a melting point of about 23° C. to 27° C.) by DUBOIS STEARINERIE SA (France).

[0121] In the composition according to the invention, the weight content of solid fatty material with a melting point below 30° C. (S1) may be at least 5%, preferably at least 10%, more preferably at least 15% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] The weight content of solid fatty materials having a melting point below 30° C. (S1) may be up to 30%, preferably up to 25%, more preferably up to 20%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0123] Preferably, the weight content of solid fatty material (S1) with a melting point below 30° C. is between 5% and 30%, preferably between 10% and 25%, relative to the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and organoleptic properties of the composition.

[0124] A second solid fatty substance (S2) having a melting point of 30°C to 40°C :

[0125] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one second solid fatty substance having a melting point in the range from 30° C. to 40° C., preferably from 30° C. to 37° C. This may, for example, be a pasty fatty substance (comprising both liquid and solid parts at 25° C.) or a compound with a corresponding melting point (for example solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, mixtures of such fatty substances, etc.). Preferably, the second solid fatty substance is a pasty fatty substance.

[0126] Preferably, the second solid fatty material is of natural origin.

[0127] Examples of the second solid fatty substance (S2) that can be used include shea butter (INCI name: BUTYROSPERMUMPARKII (SHEA) BUTTER), mango butter (INCI name: MANGIFERA INDICA SEED BUTTER), cocoa butter (INCI name: THEOBROMA CACAO (COCOA) SEED BUTTER, with a melting point of about 33°C to 38°C), nut butter (INCI name: GARCINIA INDICA SEED BUTTER), 32 / 34" pasty solid (INCI name: HYDROGENATED COCONUT OIL, and melting point about 32-34°C) and more generally vegetable butters with a melting point in the range of 30-40°C.

[0128] In the composition according to the invention, the weight content of solid fatty substances (S2) having a melting point ranging from 30°C to 40°C may be at least 10%, preferably at least 15%, more preferably at least 20% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] The content by weight of solid fatty material (S2) having a melting point in the range 30° C. to 40° C. may be at most 40%, preferably at most 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0130] Preferably, the weight content of solid fatty matter (S2) with a melting point ranging from 30° C. to 40° C. is from 10% to 40%, preferably from 15% to 40%, more preferably from 20% to 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and organoleptic properties of the composition.

[0131] A third solid fatty substance (S3) having a melting point of at least 60°C :

[0132] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one third solid fatty substance having a melting point of at least 60° C., preferably from 60° C. to 100° C. This may, for example, be a wax or a compound with a corresponding melting point (for example solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols etc.).

[0133] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of various solid fatty substances having a melting point of at least 60°C, preferably ranging from 60°C to 100°C.

[0134] Preferably, the solid fatty substance (S3) to be used has a melting point in the range of 60 to 90° C. This offers advantages for carrying out the process for preparing the composition according to the invention, in particular with regard to the heating temperatures and energies required for preparing the composition according to the invention.

[0135] Preferably, the at least one third solid fatty substance having a melting point of at least 60° C. is of natural origin.

[0136] Non-limiting examples of the third solid fat material (S3) include:

[0137] waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice wax, ouricuri wax, espartowax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sunflower wax, such as the wax sold under the name Kahlwax 6607L (INCI name: HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED CERA; melting point about 74° C. to 80° C.) by KAHL GMBH & Co. Co. KG (Germany);

[0138] - waxes obtained by hydrogenating animal or vegetable oils, for example hydrogenated castor oil (INCI name: HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, melting point about 85° C. to 88° C.), marketed by BASF under the name HF 62 (INCI name: HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL, melting point about 60°C to 63°C) is a wax sold;

[0139] - Solid compounds (melting point of at least 60° C.) fatty alcohols (e.g. cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, etc.), fatty acids (e.g. palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, etc.), fatty esters (e.g. glyceryl behenate, etc.) or mixtures thereof.

[0140] In the composition according to the invention, the weight content of solid fatty material having a melting point of at least 60° C. (S3) may be at least 5%, preferably at least 8%, more preferably at least 10% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] The content by weight of solid fatty material having a melting point of at least 60° C. (S3) may be at most 20%, preferably at most 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] Preferably, the weight content of solid fatty material (S3) with a melting point of at least 60° C. is between 5% and 20%, preferably between 8% and 15%, more preferably between 10% and 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and organoleptic properties of the composition.

[0143] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two solid fatty substances (S3) having a melting point of at least 60° C., one of which (S3a) has a melting point higher than 80° C., preferably between 80° C. and 90° C. This improves the stability and the sensory properties of the molten composition according to the invention.

[0144] The content by weight of solid fatty material having a melting point above 80° C. (S3a) may be at least 0.5%, preferably at least 1%, more preferably at least 1.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] The content by weight of solid fatty material having a melting point above 80° C. (S3a) may be at most 5%, preferably at most 4%, more preferably at most 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0146] Preferably, the weight content of solid fatty substances with a melting point higher than 80° C. (S3a) is from 0.5% to 5%, preferably from 0.5% to 4%, more preferably from 1% to 3%, and even better from 1.5% to 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and organoleptic properties of the composition.

[0147] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ratio of the weight content of solid fatty material (S2) having a melting point of 30°C to 40°C to the weight content of solid fatty material (S3) having a melting point of at least 60°C is 1 / 1 to 3 / 1, preferably 1.5 / 1 to 3 / 1, more preferably 1.5 / 1 to 2 / 1.

[0148] Other compounds :

[0149] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more formulation agents, in particular customary active ingredients or cosmetic excipients.

[0150] These formulation agents can be appropriately selected according to the use of the composition of the present invention.

[0151] Non-limiting examples of formulation agents include organic solvents (e.g., alcohols and polyols), hydrophilic or lipophilic rheological agents (thickeners or gelling agents), softeners, humectants, sunscreens, stabilizers, emollients, defoamers, film formers, emulsifiers, surfactants (anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric), fillers (e.g., matting powders, soft focus active touch powders, etc.), UV filters (or photoprotectants, organic and / or inorganic, active in UVA and / or UVB), colorants, chelating agents (chelating agents), alkalizing agents or acidifying agents, pH regulators, preservatives, fragrances or any other ingredient commonly used in the field of cosmetics and / or dermatology. The amounts of these various compounds are those conventionally used in the field under consideration. Depending on their nature, these compounds can be introduced into the fatty phase or into the hydrophilic phase dispersed in the fatty phase.

[0152] The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one active ingredient. Among the active ingredients, mention may be made of, for example:

[0153] - antifouling agents and / or anti-free radical agents and / or antioxidants (coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone);

[0154] - lighteners, depigmenting agents, pigmentation enhancers and / or self-tanning agents;

[0155] - Anti-aging agents;

[0156] - tonicity agents or anti-wrinkle agents, such as vegetable proteins and their hydrolysates (eg soy protein extract);

[0157] - humectants (such as polyols, for example glycerol);

[0158] - anti-inflammatory agents (such as glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts);

[0159] - Soothing agents (allantoin, bisabolol, cornflower water);

[0160] - Antiseborrheic agents;

[0161] - antimicrobial or antibacterial agents (such as salicylic acid);

[0162] - Tonicity agents;

[0163] - curing agent;

[0164] - vitamins and provitamins (such as retinol or vitamin A, ascorbic acid or vitamin C, tocopherol or vitamin E, niacinamide or vitamin PP or B3, panthenol or vitamin B5, biotin or vitamin B8 and their derivatives, such as, for example, esters of these vitamins);

[0165] -Essential oils.

[0166] Compositions according to the invention may also comprise additional fatty substances. Additional fatty substances are fatty substances different from those defined above. They may comprise polar oils and / or solid fatty substances different from those defined above (different from S1, S2 and S3).

[0167] Examples of further fatty substances include vegetable oils (triglycerides, fatty acids), glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty esters (or esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than the aforementioned fatty esters), and mixtures thereof.

[0168] The vegetable oil may be selected from triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglycerides. Non-limiting examples of vegetable oils include sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, walnut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, calendula oil, apricot oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, corn oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, grape seed oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, mirabelle plum oil, shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0169] Glycerides are glycerides with one (monoglycerides) or more (diglycerides and triglycerides) fatty acids. They can be of natural origin (e.g. triglycerides of capric / octanoic acid) or synthetic (e.g. triglycerides of heptanoic or caprylic acid). Preferably, the glycerides are of natural origin.

[0170] The fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the present invention may more particularly be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples include cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol. In the context of the present invention, the fatty alcohols useful as fatty substances are preferably of natural origin.

[0171] "Fat" esters have at least one straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, particularly substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. They can be selected from esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, optionally hydroxylated. Unlike the above-mentioned triglycerides, these esters can be particularly selected from esters of saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monobasic acids or polybasic acids and saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monohydric alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbons of these esters being greater than or equal to 6. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters include linoleyl lactate, acetyl ricinoleate methyl ester, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl lactate, diisopropyl adipate, etc.

[0172] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional liquid fatty substance. The term "additional liquid fatty substance" (also referred to as "additional oil") refers to oils other than the non-polar hydrocarbon oils (Npl) defined above. For example, they may be polar oils. The at least one additional liquid fatty substance may be chosen from vegetable oils, glycerides (including triglycerides), fatty esters and mixtures thereof.

[0173] Advantageously, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional oil (or additional liquid fatty substance), the weight content of non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) is greater than the weight content of each additional oil. More preferably, at least one non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) is in the majority. In other words, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional liquid fatty substance, the total weight content of non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) is greater than the total weight content of the additional liquid fatty substances. That is, the weight content of non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Npl) is greater than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of liquid fatty substances in the composition.

[0174] The additional fatty substance (preferably liquid) may be present in an amount of up to 20% by weight, preferably up to 15% by weight, more preferably up to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] Thanks to their knowledge in cosmetics, the skilled person is able to choose the formulation agents to be added to the composition according to the invention and their amounts according to the desired properties without substantially modifying the effects associated with the composition according to the invention, in particular the efficacy, stability and sensation of the composition.

[0176] use :

[0177] Another subject of the present invention is the use of a composition according to the invention for cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratin materials, preferably the skin, lips, eye contour and eyelashes.

[0178] Another subject of the invention is the use of a composition according to the invention for cleansing and / or removing make-up from the face, including the lips, eyes and eyelashes.

[0179] Another object of the invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for cleansing keratin materials comprising a step of applying a composition according to the invention to keratin materials, in particular to the face, and a step of rinsing the keratin materials, in particular to the face, with water.

[0180] Example

[0181] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the non-limiting examples given below. The compounds or raw materials used are named by their INCI names. When not otherwise indicated, the percentages indicated are percentages by mass. The abbreviation "nd" means "not determined".

[0182] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 16 were prepared according to the following procedure, the proportions indicated in % in the following Tables 1 to 4. The various compositions were also evaluated based on their organoleptic properties (appearance, color, odor), their stability over time, their application properties and their performance (efficacy).

[0183] In Tables 1 to 4 below:

[0184] - the term "Inv." or "Comp." refers to a composition "according to the invention" or a "comparative" composition (outside the invention), respectively;

[0185] - the terms "surf.", "pres.", "mois." and "pol.o." refer to ingredient types and stand for "surfactant," "preservative," "humectant," and "polar oil," respectively;

[0186] - The left column named "P" indicates the phase in which the ingredient exists;

[0187] - The references between brackets (next to the INCI name of the compound) indicate the trade names of the raw materials used comprising these ingredients. The details of these raw materials are given below.

[0188] (1) S FACE M 1001 (INCI name: polyglyceryl-10-myristate), sold by ROSSOW.

[0189] (2) DERMOFEEL G 10LW 70MB (INCI name: polyglyceryl-10-laurate), sold by EVONIK GMBH.

[0190] (3) CITHROL 10GTIS (INCI name: PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate), sold by the company.

[0191] (4) Dub MCT 5545 (INCI name: caprylic / capric triglyceride), sold by DUBOIS.

[0192] (5) HYDROBASE 24-26 (INCI name: Coconut (Coconut) Oil, sold by PROD'HYGLABORATOIRESS.A.

[0193] (6) HYDROBASE 32-34 (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coconut Oil), sold by PROD'HYGLABORATOIRES SA.

[0194] (10) TRIGLYCERIDES C16-C24 (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), sold by BASF.

[0195] (11) KAHLWAX 6607L (INCI name: Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Ascorbyl Palmitate (and) Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil), sold by INGRETECH.

[0196] (12) HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL (INCI name: hydrogenated castor oil), sold by BASF.

[0197] (13) ACTICIRE (INCI name: jojoba esters (and) polyglyceryl-3 (and) acacia de currens flower wax (and) helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax), sold by GATTEFOSSE FRANCE SAS.

[0198] (14) CETIOL CC (INCI name: dicaprylyl carbonate (and) tocopherol), sold by BASF. (15) VEGELIGHT SILK (INCI name: C9-12 alkane), sold by BIOSYNTHIS (France)

[0199] Sale.

[0200] (16) CETIOL C5C (INCI name: Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (and) Tocopherol), sold by BASF.

[0201] (17) BELSIL DM 5 (INCI name: dimethicone), sold by WACKER.

[0202] (18) REFINED SUNFLOWER OIL (INCI name: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil), sold by OLISUD.

[0203] (19) CETIOL OE (INCI name: dicaprylyl ether (and) tocopherol), sold by BASF.

[0204] (20) EQUITABLE ORGANIC SHEA BUTTER (INCI name: Shea Butter), sold by OLVEASAS.

[0205] (21) CASTOR OIL (INCI name: Ricinus communis (Castor) seed oil), sold by BERTIN.

[0206] (23) LEXGARD O (INCI name: Caprylyl glycol), sold by INOLEX.

[0207] (24) TOCOPHEROL ACETATE (INCI name: Tocopheryl acetate), sold by BASF.

[0208] (25) COVIOX T70C (INCI name: tocopherol), sold by BASF.

[0209] (26) VELSAN SC (INCI name: Sorbitan octanoate), marketed by CLARIANT.

[0210] (27) Wilfarin EP997 (INCI name: Glycerin), sold by WILMAR.

[0211] (28) CELLULOBEADS USF (INCI name: cellulose), marketed by DAITO KASEI EUROPE.

[0212] (29) TAPIOCA PURE (INCI name: tapioca starch), sold by QUIMICA MASSO SA.

[0213] (30) RHEANCE ONE (INCI name: glycolipid (and) aqueous solution / water / aqueous solution (and) sodium benzoate), sold by EVONIK GMBH.

[0214] (31) LEXGARD GMCY MB (INCI name: Glyceryl Caprylate), marketed by INOLEX.

[0215] (32) D PANTHENOL 75L (INCI name: Panthenol (and) Aqua / Water / Aqueous Solution), sold by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS EUROPE LTD.

[0216] Table 1

[0217]

[0218]

[0219] Comparative compositions 1 and 2 differ from composition 3 according to the invention in that they do not contain the same emulsifier. The stability test carried out according to the procedure described below shows that these comparative compositions are unstable. In particular, composition 2, which is very similar to composition 3 according to the invention (using polyglyceryl 10-laurate emulsifier instead of polyglyceryl 10-myristate), is unstable (oil is released on the surface). In addition, it forms agglomerates during rinsing. On the contrary and surprisingly, composition 3 according to the invention (comprising 15% of polyglyceryl-10-myristate) and composition 4 according to the invention (comprising 10% of polyglyceryl-10-myristate) are stable for 1 month at 50°C and in temperature cycling.

[0220] Table 2

[0221]

[0222]

[0223] Comparative composition 5 (S3), which does not contain a solid fatty substance having a melting point of at least 60° C., is unstable. Comparative compositions 6 to 8 differ from the compositions according to the invention in that the non-polar oil is replaced by a relatively polar oil (silicone oil for composition 6, sunflower oil for composition 7 and jojoba oil for composition 8). Composition 6 is stable within 24 hours, but its stability over time has not been studied because it forms agglomerates when rinsed with water and is difficult to remove during rinsing (as described below), making it unsuitable. Composition 7, which contains sunflower oil, is stable, but the efficacy tests detailed below show that this composition performs poorly for makeup removal. In addition, it leaves a greasy film-like feel on the skin. Finally, the stability tests show that composition 8 is unstable (surface oil release).

[0224] Table 3

[0225]

[0226]

[0227] Compositions 9 to 12 are further examples of compositions according to the present invention. In particular, compositions 9 and 10 contain other non-polar oils (dialkyl ether oils and dialkyl carbonate oils). Composition 12 according to the present invention is another example of a composition containing 8% polyglycerol 10-myristate.

[0228] Table 4

[0229]

[0230] Compositions 13 to 15 are other examples of compositions that additionally contain powders (cellulose and tapioca starch powders to give the compositions a soft, powdery feel). Stability testing shows that these compositions are stable despite the presence of these powders.

[0231] Composition 15 is an example of a composition further comprising 5% glycerol and is therefore in the form of a dispersion of a hydrophilic phase (glycerol) in a lipophilic phase.Stability tests show that composition 15 is stable despite the presence of glycerol and cellulose powder.

[0232] Procedure for Compositions 1 to 4 and Composition 11 (comprising non-polar paraffin oil) :

[0233] Phase A is prepared by melting the respective mixture of the ingredients in a water bath at 85°C at 1000 rpm (revolutions / minute) under Rayneri stirring equipped with a stator rotor until the mixture is completely melted. Once the phase A mixture has melted, it is cooled under rotor-stator, stirring at 1000 rpm (revolutions / minute).

[0234] When the resulting mixture (phase A) reaches a temperature of 65°C, phase B (nonpolar alkane oil) is added dropwise. Stirring is then increased to 2500 rpm until a temperature of 63°C is reached.

[0235] When the resulting mixture (Phase A and Phase B) reaches a temperature of 63°C, the premixed Phase C is added and stirring is maintained for 10 minutes.

[0236] The resulting mixture is then poured into a container, such as a jar.

[0237] A solid off-white composition (500 g) was obtained having a thick, smooth, homogeneous balm texture.

[0238] Procedure for Composition 12 (comprising non-polar alkane oil and glycolipid) :

[0239] Phase A is prepared by melting the respective mixture of the ingredients in a water bath at 85° C. under Rayneri stirring equipped with a stator rotor. Once the phase A mixture has melted, it is cooled under the rotor-stator while stirring at 1000 rpm (revolutions per minute) and phase B (nonpolar alkane oil) is added dropwise.

[0240] When the resulting mixture (Phase A and Phase B) reached 62 °C, stirring was increased to 1200 rpm until 60 °C was reached.

[0241] Phase D (glycolipid emulsifier) ​​and phase C (fragrance) are then added to the previous mixture and the whole is stirred at 2000 rpm for 5 minutes.

[0242] The resulting mixture is then poured into a container, such as a jar, at a temperature of about 59°C.

[0243] A solid off-white composition (500 g) was obtained having a thick, smooth, homogeneous balm texture.

[0244] Compositions 5 to 10 and compositions 13 to 16 (comprising non-polar oils other than paraffin oils) sequence :

[0245] The ingredients of phase A are mixed with phase B and the whole is heated to 85° C. in a water bath under Rayneri stirring equipped with a stator rotor to melt the mixture until the ingredients are completely melted. Once the mixture (phase A and phase B) has melted, it is allowed to cool under a rotor-stator, stirring at 1000 rpm (revolutions per minute).

[0246] When the resulting mixture reached a temperature of 60° C., stirring was increased to 2500 rpm (during stirring the viscosity and temperature of the mixture gradually increased). Stirring was maintained at 2500 rpm until a temperature of 67° C. was reached. Stirring was then reduced to 1200 rpm and the mixture was allowed to cool by a few degrees.

[0247] Where applicable (for compositions comprising phase C ingredients): when the resulting mixture reaches a temperature of 58°C, add the previously mixed phase C and increase stirring to 2000 rpm for 15 minutes.

[0248] The resulting mixture is then poured into a container, such as a jar.

[0249] An off-white solid composition (500 g) was obtained.

[0250] Evaluation Methodology :

[0251] Penetration depth measurement :

[0252] After obtaining the solid composition, after storing in an oven at 20° C. for 24 hours, the penetration depth was measured using the above-mentioned measuring device. The penetration depth values ​​are listed in Tables 1 to 4.

[0253] Stability Assessment :

[0254] The stability of the solid compositions was studied under various conditions, in particular after storage for 1 month at 50°C in a constant temperature oven under accelerated aging conditions. For each composition, five glass bottles were tested for stability: in the dark at room temperature (RT), and in a thermal control study at 4°C for 3 months in the dark, 3 months at 40°C, 1 month at 50°C and 1 month in temperature cycling (automatic temperature cycling from -10°C to 25°C every 12 hours). After storage for a certain time (t) under these different conditions, the quality and color of the samples were evaluated by sensory analysis of the samples (appearance, color and odor). The sensory evaluation consisted of evaluating the overall characteristics of the samples to the naked eye (color, sedimentation, granularity, surface oil release, hardness and / or consistency over time) and the odor of the samples after storage, compared with a control composition stored in the dark at 4°C.

[0255] The stability results after storage under accelerated conditions at 50° C. (listed in Tables 1 to 4 above) show that Comparative Compositions 1 and 2, which do not include a specific emulsifier, are unstable (released at the end of manufacture). For Comparative Compositions 6 to 8, which do not include a non-polar oil, stability is impaired and / or makeup removal is insufficient. Unlike the comparative compositions, the compositions according to the present invention are stable, homogeneous (no oil release or exudation, and no particle formation) and maintain a thick balm texture over time. In addition, they also remain homogeneous after the composition is ground.

[0256] Evaluation of performance and sensory properties :

[0257] A panel of 10 experts evaluated the cleaning and rinsing efficacy and sensory properties of Compositions 3, 6, 7, 9 and 10. These compositions differed only in the type of oil used (same % ingredients).

[0258] These evaluations were performed after applying waterproof mascara to a 5 cm x 2 cm area on the inner forearm. The skin on the forearm had been cleaned with liquid soap and water and wiped with a paper towel. The composition to be tested (2 g of product) was applied to the make-up-covered skin with a spatula. Ten circular movements were made with two fingers (10 turns in 10 seconds) and the effect was evaluated as follows:

[0259] - Effectiveness of cleansing or makeup removal (ability of product to soften and separate and / or melt makeup on the skin) was assessed visually on a scale of 1 (poor melting and / or poor efficacy, makeup adheres to the skin, long rubbing required to remove) to 5 (good softening, very good efficacy, makeup comes off the skin very well)

[0260] - Appearance that transforms to a milky emulsion when rinsed off: Hold the forearm under a thin stream of water and note the moment when the product whitens the most. The whitening potential is rated on a scale of 1 (no transformation) to 5 (strong white transformation on contact with water).

[0261] - Rinse efficiency was rated on a scale of 1 (difficult to rinse off, requiring prolonged rubbing with water to remove the composition) to 5 (very easy and rinses off quickly).

[0262] - Grease was assessed on a scale of 1 (no greasy feeling after rinsing) to 5 (skin feels very greasy or oily after rinsing).

[0263] The results are listed in Table 5, taking the average of the 10 panelists.

[0264] result :

[0265] Table 5

[0266]

[0267] In conclusion, compositions 3, 9 and 10 according to the invention, in a specific combination according to the invention, make it possible to reconcile all the properties sought, such as stability, solid but soft consistency, make-up removal properties (even for removing stubborn make-up), rinsing properties and the feeling of easy, molten application of the product to the skin. Moreover, the compositions according to the invention are easy to remove (easy to pick up the right amount of solids with a spatula, spoon or fingers) and have a soft, non-sticky, non-tacky texture ("clean" removal). Finally, the compositions according to the invention leave the skin feeling soft after rinsing, without a greasy film, dryness or tightness.

[0268] The specific combination of ingredients according to the invention thus makes it possible to obtain soft, smooth solid compositions of high natural origin, while exhibiting the desired organoleptic and stability properties.

Claims

1. An anhydrous solid cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least 8% by weight of polyglycerol-10-myristate relative to the total weight of the composition; b) at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon oils; c) at least one first solid fatty substance with a melting point below 30° C.; d) at least one second solid fatty substance having a melting point in the range of 30°C to 40°C; and e) at least one third solid fatty substance having a melting point of at least 60°C.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in, Its penetration depth at 20°C is in the range of 8 mm to 25 mm.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, in, The composition is single phase.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight content of polyglyceryl-10-myristate is at least 10%, preferably at least 12%, more preferably at least 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additional surfactant, and wherein the content of polyglyceryl-10-myristate is greater than the total weight content of the additional surfactants in the composition.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-polar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from alkanes comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, alkenes comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, dialkylated monoethers whose alkyl chain comprises at least 6 carbon atoms, dialkylated carbonates whose alkyl chain comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, monoesters whose alkyl chain comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additional liquid fatty substance, and wherein the total weight content of non-polar hydrocarbon oils is greater than the total weight content of the additional liquid fatty substances in the composition.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight content of the first solid fatty material having a melting point below 30°C is from 5% to 30%, preferably from 10% to 25%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight content of the second solid fatty material having a melting point of 30°C to 40°C is from 10% to 40%, preferably from 15% to 40%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight content of third solid fatty material having a melting point above 60°C ranges from 5% to 20%, preferably from 8% to 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least two solid fatty substances having a melting point of at least 60°C, one of which has a melting point above 80°C.

12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ratio of the weight content of the second solid fatty substance having a melting point of 30°C to 40°C to the weight content of the third solid fatty substance having a melting point of at least 60°C is 1 to 3, preferably 1.5 to 3, based on the total weight of the composition.

13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in, The composition is free of synthetic thickeners and / or polyoxyalkylene surfactants.

14. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in, According to NF ISO 16128, the cosmetic composition contains at least 90% of ingredients of natural origin.

15. Use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratin materials, preferably the face, including lips, eyes and eyelashes.

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