Antioxidant composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising antioxidants: an Argania spinosa leaf extract, a Pinus pinus bark extract, and resveratrol, as well as a cosmetic treatment method and use thereof, and more particularly, to a cosmetic composition comprising an antioxidant, an Argania spinosa leaf extract, a Pinus pinus bark extract, and resveratrol.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions that provide improved skin protection and methods of cosmetic treatment using the same. Background Art

[0002] The skin is the first line of defense, acting as a barrier between us and the environment. The skin is a complex organ composed of three layers: the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue.

[0003] The epidermis is the outermost layer, which itself is composed of several layers. The outermost part of the epidermis, called the stratum corneum, is relatively waterproof and, when intact, prevents most bacteria, viruses, and other foreign matter from entering the body. It also prevents the loss of water, heat, and other important components of the body.

[0004] Most cells in the epidermis (90-95%) are keratinocytes. They originate from proliferating keratinocyte stem cells in the deepest layer of the epidermis, called the basal layer. The resulting keratinocytes further divide and differentiate, and slowly migrate upward to the surface of the epidermis as mature cells. Once keratinocytes reach the stratum corneum at the surface of the skin, they die and no longer proliferate, and are gradually sloughed off and replaced by newer cells pushed up from below.

[0005] The skin is constantly attacked by various exogenous and endogenous damages. Exogenous damages include those caused by the environment, such as ultraviolet radiation (UVA and UVB), infrared and visible light, atmospheric pollution (including cigarette smoke) and / or irritating chemicals (including surfactants in cosmetic preparations). Such environmental factors can directly or indirectly cause skin damage by: generating active substances and free radicals, such as superoxide anions, hydrogen peroxide, hydroxyl ions, peroxide ions, ozone, singlet oxygen, sulfur oxides, nitrogen oxides, carbon monoxide, alkoxy ions, peroxynitrites and heavy metals. Reactive oxygen (ROS), reactive carbonyls (RCS) and reactive nitrogen (RNS) need to be particularly considered. Endogenous damages can also cause skin damage, such as hormone fluctuations (such as cortisol and adrenaline hormones), aging and other biochemical changes in the skin.

[0006] As we age, our skin undergoes changes such as thinning, being more easily damaged, and having reduced elasticity. In addition, lifelong exposure to UV-A and UV-B radiation and other environmental factors (such as pollution from traffic exhaust, ozone, cigarette smoke, etc.) induces the formation of free radicals, causing skin changes. These changes, including lines and wrinkles, actinic lentigines, dyspigmentation, rough skin, actinic telangiectasia, and further loss of skin elastic function, are due to direct UV-mediated damage to cells and indirectly mediated damage caused by free radical generation in cells and tissues. This is often referred to as photoaging and can explain up to 90% of the changes in our skin associated with aging.

[0007] It is generally believed that the harmful effects of UV radiation are due to the generation of free radicals. These highly reactive species can react with and damage DNA molecules in the skin (or elsewhere). Similar effects can also be attributed to radiation in the visible part of the spectrum.

[0008] In terms of air pollution (including cigarette smoke), polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) are the main pollutants that cause skin damage through a variety of different mechanisms, including increased melanocyte activation, increased sebum oxidation, and mitochondrial damage to keratinocytes and fibroblasts. PAHs can also increase ROS in the skin discussed above.

[0009] The process of cell proliferation, differentiation and maturation of keratinocytes is susceptible to the many exogenous and endogenous insults that the skin faces every day. These insults are known to increase the inflammatory response of the epidermis. One consequence of this inflammation is increased proliferation of keratinocytes, followed by poor maturation and differentiation, resulting in a decrease in the quality of the stratum corneum, and thereby destroying and / or damaging the skin barrier. Once the skin barrier is destroyed or damaged, this further enhances the cascade of inflammation and excessive proliferation of keratinocytes, producing a cycle of unhealthy skin traits. The skin barrier weakens under the attack of pathogens and toxins, increasing the possibility of skin redness and irritation, acne and spots, and / or causing the skin to appear dull, dry and scaly.

[0010] It is known to use antioxidant compounds as free radical quenchers, thereby mitigating the effects of free radical formation.

[0011] Applicants have identified a need among consumers to provide further cosmetic compositions which maintain or improve skin / hair health and / or appearance. Applicants have discovered that the compositions of the present invention provide excellent and effective benefits to skin and hair against free radical induced damage. Summary of the invention

[0012] Thus, in a first aspect of the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising an antioxidant: an extract of Argania spinosa leaves (such as Arganyl TM Pycnogenol and resveratrol (such as, for example, from DSM under the trade name for sale).

[0013] Surprisingly, specific combinations of antioxidants of the present invention provide better antioxidant activity than either agent alone.

[0014] In another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method of cosmetically treating a skin / hair condition, the method comprising the step of applying a cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the skin / hair of a subject in need thereof.

[0015] In another aspect of the present invention, there is provided the use of a cosmetic composition according to the present invention as a topical application on the skin / hair.

[0016] It will be appreciated that the cosmetic composition of the present invention is effective in cosmetically treating skin damage caused by pollution damage, or cosmetically preventing the harmful effects of pollution damage on the skin. Therefore, a further aspect of the present invention provides a method of cosmetically treating skin damage caused by pollution damage, or cosmetically preventing the harmful effects of pollution on the skin, the method comprising applying an effective amount of the cosmetic composition defined above to the skin. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0017] The present invention uses antioxidants. The term "antioxidant" is intended to mean an agent that inhibits oxidation and prevents the formation of free radicals, as will be understood by those skilled in the art.

[0018] Antioxidant Argania spinulosa leaf extract (such as Arganyl TM Pycnogenol and resveratrol (such as, for example, from DSM under the trade name % by weight of the composition, from about 0.00001% to about 10% by weight of the composition, from about 0.00005% to about 1% by weight of the composition, from about 0.0001% to about 0.5% by weight of the composition, from about 0.0002% to about 0.1% by weight of the composition, from about 0.0003% to about 0.01% by weight of the composition, from about 0.0004% to about 0.005% by weight of the composition, from about 0.0005% to about 0.002% by weight of the composition.

[0019] The antioxidant may be present in the composition in the same amount / equivalent amount or about the same amount / equivalent amount.

[0020] The first antioxidant may be present in at least the same amount as the second antioxidant. In one embodiment, the first antioxidant is present in an amount of about 4 times or less, such as about 3.5 times or less, about 3 times or less, or about 2.5 times or less, of the second antioxidant.

[0021] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may include a cosmetically acceptable carrier. The cosmetically acceptable carrier may be water-based, oil-based or wax-based, or emulsion-based.

[0022] In embodiments where the carrier is emulsion-based, the composition may be in the form of a water-in-oil, oil-in-water, water-in-oil-in-water, or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion.

[0023] In embodiments where the carrier is water-based, water may be present at a level of about 40% or more, about 45% or more, about 50% or more, about 55% or more, or about 60% or more by weight of the composition.

[0024] In embodiments where the carrier is oil-based or wax-based, the oil and / or wax may be present at a level of about 15% or more, about 20% or more, about 30% or more, about 25% or more, about 35% or more, or about 40% or more by weight of the composition.

[0025] For example, in one embodiment, the carrier can be water-based and can include deionized water, purified water, natural spring water, rose water, etc. Mixtures of more than one of these can also be used. In one embodiment, deionized water or purified water is used.

[0026] The aqueous carrier may be 100% water or it may include components other than water. These may be components known for use in cosmetic formulations. They may include, but are not limited to, agents such as water-soluble humectants, conditioning agents, antimicrobial agents, moisturizers (e.g., glycerin), and / or other water-soluble skin care actives.

[0027] In another embodiment, the carrier may be oil-based or wax-based. The oil may be a natural oil or a synthetic oil, but is preferably a natural oil such as a vegetable oil or a nut oil. The oil may be liquid or solid. The wax is preferably a natural wax.

[0028] Obviously, the oil or wax selected must be able to act as a carrier. Preferably, it is a material that can be readily blended at room temperature; thus, it can be a liquid at room temperature, or a solid that can be stirred at room temperature.

[0029] Combinations of one or more oils and / or one or more waxes may be used.

[0030] The liquid oils that may be mentioned include avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle bean oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, canoga oil, egg yolk oil, sesame seed oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, camellia sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, sunflower seed oil, grape seed oil, almond oil, shea oil, sweet almond oil, cotton oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, perilla oil, hazelnut oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, rapeseed oil, alfalfa oil, Chinese tung tree oil, etc. woodoil), Japanese tung oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, pumpkin oil, black currant oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, kuju oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, triglycerine, tricaprylin and triisopalmitin.

[0031] Solid oils / fats that may be mentioned include cocoa butter, coconut fat, horse tallow, hardened coconut oil, palm oil, tallow, mutton tallow, hardened tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, Japan wax kernel oil, hardened oil, Japan wax, shea butter and hardened castor oil;

[0032] Waxes that may be mentioned include beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, lanolin, lanolin acetate, liquid lanolin, sugar cane wax, fatty acid isopropyl lanolin, hexyl laurate, reduced lanolin, jojoba wax, hard lanolin, polyoxyethylene (hereinafter referred to as POE), lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol and POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether. In one embodiment, the carrier is not based on lanolin.

[0033] Ester oils that may be mentioned include C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, tridecyl salicylate, dibutyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecanol myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, 12-hydroxycholesteryl stearate, glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid esters, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl di-2-heptyl undecanoate, undecanate), trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, tri-2-ethyl-hexanoin glyceryl, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, cetyl-2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceride tri-2-heptyl undecatoic acid, methyl ester of castor oil fatty acid, oleate oil, acetoglyceride, palmitate-2-heptyl undecyl ester, diisopropyl adipate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid-2-octyldodecil ester), di-2-heptylundecyl adipate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, myristate-2-hexyldecyl, palmitate-2-hexyldecyl, adipate-2-hexyldecyl, diisopropyl sebacate, and succinate-2-ethylhexyl.

[0034] Higher fatty acids that may be mentioned include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, 12-hydroxy-stearic acid, undecenoic acid, lanolin fatty acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and eicosapentaenoic acid.

[0035] Straight-chain / branched higher alcohols that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, monostearyl glyceryl ether (batyl alcohol), 2-decyltetradecinol, lanolin alcohol, cholesterol, phytosterols, hexyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol.

[0036] The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be provided in any form suitable for topical application to the skin / hair. The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be delivered and / or applied to the skin via any of conventional formulations known to those skilled in the art. Typical formulation types of the present invention are creams, lotions, emulsions, gels, serums, foams and ointments. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is in the form of a cream or lotion.

[0037] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention will generally further comprise other ingredients or excipients which will be familiar to those skilled in the art.

[0038] For example, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may further include one or more humectants, including but not limited to glycerol, propylene glycol, propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, hexanediol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, sodium hyaluronate, urea, xylitol, lactitol, fructose, glucose, mannose, xylose, honey, pyrrolidone and carboxylic acids and salts thereof. When present, the one or more humectants in the cosmetic composition may be present in an amount of about 0.01% to about 20%, about 0.1% to about 10%, or about 0.5% to about 7% by weight of the composition.

[0039] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further include one or more emollients, including but not limited to PPG-15 stearyl alcohol ether, ethylhexyl stearate, cetyl dimethicone, octyldodecanol, PPG-20 methyl glucose ether, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl laurate, isodecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexadecane, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, canola oil, sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus), olive oil (Olea europea), cottonseed oil (Gossypium herbaceum), jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis), shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao), cupuacu butter (Theobroma grandiflora), grandiflorum), avocado oil (Persea gratissima), liquid paraffin, dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, dimethiconol, and petrolatum. When present, the one or more emollients in the cosmetic composition can be present in an amount from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight of the composition, from about 0.1% to about 10% or from about 0.5% to about 7% by weight of the composition.

[0040] The cosmetic composition may further include one or more emulsifiers, including but not limited to steareth-2, steareth-21, steareth-10, ceteareth-5, ceteareth-20, cetearyl glucoside, oleth-10, glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, sodium stearate, PEG-12 oleate, PEG-2 stearate, PEG-12 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, potassium cetyl phosphate, cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, PEG-80 sorbitan, sorbitan oleate and / or sorbitan palmitate. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention does not include sulfate as an emulsifier. In embodiments where one or more emulsifiers are present in the cosmetic composition, the one or more emulsifiers may be present in an amount from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of the composition, from about 0.25% to about 7.5% by weight of the composition, or from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight of the composition. In one embodiment where one or more emulsifiers are present in the cosmetic composition, the one or more emulsifiers are present in an amount from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight of the composition.

[0041] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further include one or more surfactants, including but not limited to anionic surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, and sodium C12-15 polyether-12 carboxylate), amphoteric surfactants / zwitterionic surfactants (e.g., cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate, and cocamidopropyl hydroxysulfobetaine), nonionic surfactants (e.g., cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside), and cationic surfactants (e.g., cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and benzalkonium chloride). In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention does not include sulfate as a surfactant. In embodiments where one or more surfactants are present in the cosmetic composition, the one or more surfactants may be present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of the composition, about 0.25% to about 7.5% by weight of the composition, or about 0.5% to about 5% by weight of the composition. In one embodiment where one or more surfactants are present in the cosmetic composition, the one or more surfactants are present in an amount from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight of the composition.

[0042] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further include one or more preservatives, including but not limited to 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (bronopol, commercially available under the trade name Myacide RTM), benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, methylparaben, phenoxyethanol, ethylparaben, propylparaben, sodium methylparaben, sodium dehydroacetate, dehydroacetic acid, polyhexamethylenebiguanide hydrochloride, isothiazolone, chlorhexidine digluconate, chlorphenesin and / or sodium propylparaben. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention does not include parabens. In embodiments where one or more preservatives are present in the cosmetic composition, the one or more preservatives may be present in an amount from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight of the composition, from about 0.01% to about 8% by weight of the composition, or from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of the composition. In one embodiment where one or more preservatives are present in the cosmetic composition, the one or more preservatives are present in an amount from about 0.05% to about 8% by weight of the composition.

[0043] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further include one or more chelating agents or sequestrants, including but not limited to ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts (e.g., dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, or tetrasodium EDTA), sodium phytate, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, and / or tetrasodium glutamate diacetate. In embodiments where one or more chelating agents are present in the cosmetic composition, the one or more chelating agents may be present in an amount of about 0.001% to about 10% by weight of the composition, about 0.01% to about 8% by weight of the composition, or about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of the composition. In one embodiment where one or more chelating agents are present in the cosmetic composition, the one or more chelating agents are present in an amount of about 0.05% to about 8% by weight of the composition.

[0044] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further include one or more vitamins. For example, the cosmetic composition may further include vitamin B, vitamin B1 to vitamin B12, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, vitamin K, vitamin H, derivatives thereof, provitamins thereof (e.g., provitamin B5 (panthenol)), or combinations thereof. In embodiments in which one or more vitamins are present in the cosmetic composition, the one or more vitamins may be present in an amount of about 0.0001% to about 50% by weight of the composition, about 0.001% to about 10% by weight of the composition, about 0.01% to about 8% by weight of the composition, or about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of the composition. In one embodiment in which one or more vitamins are present in the cosmetic composition, the one or more vitamins are present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of the composition. In one embodiment in which one or more vitamins are present, the vitamin is vitamin C, vitamin E, and / or a derivative thereof.

[0045] In one embodiment, the antioxidant composition may include one or more additional antioxidants. The one or more additional antioxidants may be plant, algae or fungal extracts or derivatives thereof, including one or more species that provide antioxidant benefits, such as flavonoid species; phenolic acid species, stilbene species, lignin species or combinations thereof. Alternatively, the one or more additional antioxidants may be synthetic or equivalent natural.

[0046] In one embodiment, the one or more additional antioxidants include one or more flavonoids. Flavonoids include flavonoids, flavonols, flavanones, flavanols, anthocyanidins, anthocyanidin glycosides, proanthocyanidins, flavans, isoflavones and isoflavonoids. Some specific examples of flavonoids are catechins (catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate), quercetin, rutin, hesperidin and genistein.

[0047] In one embodiment, the one or more additional antioxidants include one or more carotenoid species. Carotenoid species include xanthophylls and carotenes. Specific examples of carotenoids are beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein, and zeaxanthin.

[0048] In one embodiment, the one or more additional antioxidants include one or more enzyme species. Antioxidant enzymes include glutathione peroxidase, catalase, and superoxide dismutase (SOD).

[0049] In one embodiment, the one or more additional antioxidants include one or more glutathione species. Glutathione species include reduced glutathione (GSH or L-glutathione) and oxidized glutathione (GSSG) (inactive state).

[0050] In one embodiment, the one or more additional antioxidants include one or more lipid-related chemical species. Lipid-related chemical species include panthenol-10, N-acetylcysteine, and lipoic acid.

[0051] In one embodiment, the one or more additional antioxidants include one or more saponin or steroid species. The saponin species may be of plant origin or isolated from marine organisms such as sea cucumbers. Examples of sources of saponins are the Sapindaceae, including its defining genus Sapindus (soapberry or soapnut), Aesculus hippocastanum (horse chesnut), Aceraceae (maples), Hippocastanaceae, Gynostemmapentaphyllum (Cucurbitaceae), ginseng or red ginseng (Panax, Araliaceae), Manilkara zapota fruit (also known as sapodillas), and Nerium oleander (Apocynaceae). Saponins can be derived from the leaves, stems, roots, bulbs, flowers, and fruits of these plants.

[0052] In one embodiment, the one or more additional antioxidants include one or more vitamins, such as vitamin C or vitamin E.

[0053] Plants provide a rich and inexpensive source of antioxidants and are therefore an effective source of such agents. Naturally occurring antioxidants may therefore be used.

[0054] However, the same or similar actives may also be prepared synthetically. Thus, the term "antioxidant" is intended to encompass antioxidants including synthetic polyphenols, such as synthetic analogs of naturally occurring antioxidants. Thus, chemically synthesized or purified polyphenols and mixtures thereof may be used in place of plant extracts. Polyphenols may be synthesized or extracted from natural sources by any suitable method known to those skilled in the art, particularly using food grade solvents. Liquid and solid (e.g., granular or powdered form) extracts are suitable.

[0055] Extracts (e.g., aqueous or alcoholic) can be obtained from plant parts, including but not limited to leaves, raw or cooked whole fruits, berries and vegetables, nuts, fruit skins, pulp, fruit rinds, peels, seeds, cones (e.g., hops), seeds or pits, bark, buds, flowers or parts thereof (including petals and pollen), roots, rhizomes and tubers, and stems. Plant extracts can be selected from the group consisting of essential oils, extracts from leaves, extracts from stems, extracts from petals, extracts from seeds, extracts from roots, extracts from pollen, and combinations thereof. In one embodiment, extracts from leaves (e.g., freeze-dried extracts) are used. In one embodiment, extracts can be prepared by microwave extraction (e.g., Quercus petraea fruit extract).

[0056] The term "antioxidant" is intended to mean a plant extract or derivative thereof that provides an antioxidant benefit, including flavonoid species, including flavonoids, flavonols, flavanones, flavanols, anthocyanins and isoflavonoids; phenolic acid species; stilbenes; lignans or a combination thereof. Plants provide a rich and inexpensive source of antioxidants and are therefore an effective source of the agents. Similar actives can also be prepared synthetically, and so are analogs. The term "antioxidant" is also intended to cover the analogs. The plant extract can be selected from the group consisting of essential oils, extracts from leaves, extracts from stems, extracts from petals, extracts from seeds, extracts from roots, extracts from pollen, and combinations thereof.

[0057] The one or more additional antioxidants may be selected from the group consisting of: dimethylmethoxychromanol (such as those available under the trade name Molecule), Myrtus communis leaf extract (such as sold under the trade name DEXOSINE from Silab ), green tea extract (e.g., Camellia sinensis leaf extract), Quercus sessile fruit extract (such as sold under the trade name Phytessence French Oak from Croda TM ), Camellia japonica extract (e.g., camellia extract, such as that sold under the trade name VITAMIN® from Clariant ), emblica extracts (e.g., Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract (also known as Emblica officinalis (Gooseberry) fruit extract)), ginkgo extracts (e.g., Ginkgo biloba leaf extract), ferulic acid (also known as hydroxycinnamic acid), and combinations thereof.

[0058] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further include one or more of the following extracts: mulberry (e.g., Morus alba), ginseng (e.g., Panax ginseng), raspberry, oregano (e.g., Origanum vulgare), white tea (e.g., Camellia sinensis), black tea, Mohani tea, English black tea, oolong tea, yellow tea, jasmine tea, Pu'er tea, bilberry (e.g., blueberry (Vaccinium cyanococcus)), rosemary (e.g., Rosemary (Rosmarinus officialis)), grape (including grape seed (e.g., Vitis vinifera)), fennel (e.g., Foeniculi fructus), Caragana sinica, majaoram (e.g., Origanum majorana), saffron (e.g., Crocus sativus), apple (e.g., Malus domestica), coffee, green coffee, cherry (e.g., Prunus avium), snow algae (e.g., Chlamydomonas nivalis), moringa (e.g., Moringa oleilera), ginger, magnolia (e.g., Magnoliaideae virginiana), French saffron, edelweiss (e.g., Leontopodium alpinium), white lotus (e.g., nymphaea alba), turmeric root, marshmallow (e.g., Althaea officianlis), burdock (e.g., Arctium lappa), blueberry (e.g., Vaccinium myrtillus), cranberry (e.g., Vaccinium oxycoccus), pomegranate (e.g., Punica granatum), granatum), sage (e.g., Salvia officianlis), thyme (e.g., Thymus vulgaris), sunflower (e.g., Helianthus annus), wild carrot (e.g., Daucus carota), hops (e.g., Humulus lupulus), witch hazel (e.g., Hamamelis), oak (e.g., Quercus), camellia (e.g.,Theacea), red clover (e.g., Tritoliumpratense), flax (e.g., Linium usitatissiumum), lemon (e.g., Citruslimon), birch (e.g., Betula), cornflower (e.g., Centaurea cyanus), geranium, Polygonum, soybean (e.g., Glycine max), or Sophora flavescens (e.g., Sophora flavescens). In one embodiment, wherein one or more such additional antioxidants are present in the cosmetic composition, the one or more additional antioxidants are present in an amount from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of the composition.

[0059] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further include one or more sunscreens, including but not limited to inorganic sunscreens (e.g., finely divided titanium dioxide, finely divided zinc oxide, iron oxide, talc and / or boron nitride) and organic sunscreens (e.g., p-aminobenzoic acid, its esters and derivatives (e.g., 2-ethylhexyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate), methoxycinnamate (e.g., 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate or α,β-di-(p-methoxycinnamoyl)-α'-(2-ethylhexyl)- acyl)-glycerol), benzophenones (e.g. oxybenzone), dibenzoylmethanes (e.g. 4-(tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, alkyl-β,β-diphenylacrylates (e.g. α-cyano-β,β-diphenylacrylate alkyl esters such as octocrylene), triazines (e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbonyl-2-ethyl-hexyl-1-oxy)-1,3,5 triazine) and / or camphor derivatives (e.g. methylbenzylidene camphor).

[0060] In embodiments where one or more sunscreens are present in the cosmetic composition, the one or more sunscreens may be present in an amount from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the composition.

[0061] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further include one or more pH adjusters, including but not limited to potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanol, sodium citrate and / or triethanolamine. The cosmetic composition of the present invention may have a pH of about 3 to about 10, such as about 4 to about 8, or about 5 to about 7. In embodiments where one or more pH adjusters are present in the cosmetic composition, the one or more pH adjusters may be present in an amount of about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the composition.

[0062] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further include one or more thickeners or gelling agents. For example, when the cosmetic composition is in the form of a gel, the cosmetic composition may include one or more thickeners or gelling agents. Examples of thickeners / gelling agents useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, acrylic acid polymers (e.g., commercially available under the trade names Carbopol or Ultrez (Lubrizol)), modified celluloses (e.g., hydroxyethylcellulose, commercially available under the trade name Natrosol from Hercules), hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, amine oxides, block polymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide (e.g., those available under the trade name "Pluronic" from BASF Wyandotte), PVM, MA, decadiene crosspolymers (e.g., available under the trade name Stabilez 60), ethoxylated fatty alcohols, salts (e.g., magnesium chloride, sodium chloride), Aristoflex AVC, phthalic acid amides, xanthan gum, sodium polyacrylate, polyvinyl alcohol, fatty alcohols and / or alkyl galactmanans (e.g., available under the trade name N-Hance from Hercules). In embodiments where one or more thickeners / gelling agents are present in the cosmetic composition, the one or more thickeners / gelling agents may be present in an amount from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the composition.

[0063] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further include one or more fragrances and / or colorants.The cosmetic composition may further include one or more conditioning agents.

[0064] The composition may also include a wax, such as cocoa butter, suitably in an amount of 1% to 99% by weight of the composition. The composition may also include a suitable cosmetically acceptable diluent, carrier and / or propellant such as dimethyl ether. The composition may also include a pearlescent agent, such as stearic acid monoethanolamide and / or mica, suitably in an amount of 0.01% to 10% by weight of the composition.

[0065] The cosmetic treatment may be used to reduce or prevent the appearance of a skin condition selected from the group consisting of skin aging, skin elasticity degeneration, skin laxity (sagging), rhytids (wrinkles), skin inflammation, skin lesions, skin burns, skin pain, muscle tightness and acne.

[0066] In the present application, the term "about" may encompass ±10%, such as ±5%, for example, ±2% or ±1%.

[0067] The skilled person will appreciate that optional features of one embodiment or aspect of the invention may be applicable to other embodiments or aspects of the invention where appropriate.

[0068] The invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

[0069] Figure 1 : This graph shows the total antioxidant capacity (TAC) of each of the individual antioxidants.

[0070] Figure 2 : This figure shows the actual TAC value of the antioxidant blend with the highest TAC value compared to the predicted TAC values ​​based on the individual TAC values, as well as the difference between the actual and predicted values.

[0071] Figure 3 : This figure shows the use of Tests were conducted to determine the results obtained for the antioxidant properties of Blend 1 according to the invention, a blend of antioxidants used in two existing Boots' cosmetic products (Old Antioxidant Blends 1 and 2), and two competitor's cosmetic products claiming to provide antioxidant protection (Competitors 1 and 2), a carrier matrix (Matrix Composition), and an ascorbic acid control.

[0072] Example

[0073] Total antioxidant capacity assay

[0074] The total antioxidant capacity (TAC) was determined as follows using a kit (Cell Biolabs, Inc); the test sample was diluted in water and buffer to achieve a final antioxidant to buffer ratio ranging from 1:1 to 1:1,000,000. 20ul of the test sample or control (ascorbic acid or green tea) was added to the wells of a 96-well plate, followed by 180 μL of 1X reaction buffer (provided by the kit). The absorbance of the reaction mixture in each well was measured at 490nm to obtain an initial reading. 50 μL of 1X copper ion reagent (provided by the kit) was added to each well to initiate the reaction. The reaction was allowed to proceed on an orbital oscillator for 5 minutes, and 50 μL of 1X stop solution (provided by the kit) was added to each well to terminate the reaction. The color change was assessed at 490nm using a plate reader.

[0075] The stronger the color change at the end of the reaction, the higher the spectrophotometric value, and the higher the antioxidant capacity of the antioxidant.

[0076] Example 1 - Identification of Antioxidant Candidates

[0077] 21 major antioxidant compounds were tested to determine which compound had the highest total antioxidant capacity. The 21 antioxidant compounds were tested in triplicate with antioxidant:buffer ratios ranging from 1:1 to 1:1,000,000. The TACs for these candidates are shown in the table below.

[0078]

[0079] From these 21 compounds, 11 were selected as the most promising: dimethylmethoxychromanol, myrtle leaf extract, camellia sinensis leaf extract, Quercus sessile fruit extract, emblica fruit extract, Ginkgo biloba leaf extract, ferulic acid, argania spinosa leaf extract, pycnogenol, camellia japonica extract, and resveratrol.

[0080] Example 2 - Preparation of Antioxidant Compositions

[0081] The 11 major antioxidants were combined into 330 different antioxidant compositions including 2 or 3 different antioxidants. Predicted TAC values ​​for the different antioxidant compositions were calculated using a custom experimental design created with the JMP DOE module, with the 11 antioxidants as mixed factors, total antioxidant capacity (TAC) as the Y response, and third-order interactions between factors modeled.

[0082] The experimental design defined 330 experiments that included a minimum of 1 antioxidant and a maximum of 3 antioxidants for any given experiment.

[0083] Once the defined experiment is run, the results are modeled using stepwise fit to Y model with the following regression controls. Stopping rule: Minimum AICc, Direction: Forward, Rule: Combined.

[0084] The interactive mixture profiler module was used to predict the ratio combination that would provide the maximum TAC for all possible mixtures of 3 antioxidants from the original list of 11 antioxidant factors.

[0085] The actual TAC for each of these compounds was calculated using the TAC assay described above and compared to the predicted values ​​to determine the % difference in TAC. The TAC values ​​for the best performing blended antioxidant compositions are shown in Table 1 below. Figure 1 is a graph showing predicted TAC, actual TAC, and the difference between the predicted and actual values.

[0086] The blend of Argania spinulosa leaf extract, maritime pine bark extract and resveratrol has a particularly high TAC value.

[0087] Table 1:

[0088] Representative preparations

[0089] Example 1 - Water-in-oil emulsion

[0090]

[0091] Manufacturing method

[0092] 1. Add Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone & Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate & Hexyl Laurate and Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 Dimethicone to main container to create oil phase.

[0093] 2. Pre-dissolve the maritime pine bark extract in a small amount of water. Warm to 40-50°C to dissolve.

[0094] 3. Weigh water, magnesium sulfate, glycerin, phenoxyethanol & caprylyl glycol & ethylhexylglycerin, water & glycerin & argania spinosa leaf extract separately and stir until the solids are dissolved to produce an aqueous phase. Add the dissolved maritime pine bark extract.

[0095] 4. Slowly add the water phase to the oil phase while continuing to stir at high speed (create a vortex). Continue stirring for 5 minutes.

[0096] 5. Pre-dissolve resveratrol in denatured ethanol and stir to form bulk solution.

[0097] 6. Homogenize the product using a Silverson mixer or equivalent at 3500 rpm for 5 minutes.

[0098] Example 2 - Oil-in-water emulsion

[0099]

[0100] Manufacturing method

[0101] 1. Add glycerin to water and dissolve tetrasodium EDTA.

[0102] 2. Using a homogenizer, sprinkle in the xanthan gum and continue homogenizing for 5 minutes or until hydrated.

[0103] 3. Heat the water phase to 70-75°C.

[0104] 4. Weigh the oil phase in a separate container and heat to 70-75°C. (Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate & PEG-100 Stearate) Whisk in the Sodium Polyacrylate while at temperature.

[0105] 5. When both phases are at 70-75°C, add the oil phase to the water phase and homogenize for 2 minutes.

[0106] 6. Add Dimethicone Crosspolymer & Dimethicone and homogenize for 2 minutes.

[0107] 7. Cool to room temperature.

[0108] 8. Stir in phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin and water, glycerin, and argania spinosa leaf extract.

[0109] 9. Dissolve the maritime pine bark extract in a small amount of water by warming to 40-50°C and stirring to form a stock solution.

[0110] 10. Pre-dissolve resveratrol in denatured ethanol and stir to form a bulk solution.

[0111] 11. Make up to weight with water and mix well.

[0112] Example 3 - Oil-in-water emulsion containing sunscreen

[0113] <![CDATA[ Material ]]> <![CDATA[ %w / w ]]> <![CDATA[ %w / w ]]> <![CDATA[ %w / w ]]> C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate 5.00 5.00 5.00 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3.00 3.00 3.00 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 5.00 5.00 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00 glycerin 2.00 2.00 2.00 Glyceryl Stearate & PEG-100 Stearate 3.00 3.00 3.00 Dimethicone 1.50 1.50 1.50 PEG-20 Stearate 0.50 0.50 0.50 Phenoxyethanol & Caprylyl Glycol & Ethylhexylglycerin 0.40 0.40 0.40 Carbomer 0.20 0.20 0.20 Potassium hydroxide 0.06 0.06 0.06 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 0.05 water 70.79 70.89 70.79 Water & Glycerin & Argania spinosa Leaf Extract 1.20 2.00 1.80 Maritime Pine Bark Extract 0.80 0.20 0.20 Resveratrol 0.5 0.20 0.5 Denatured ethanol 4.00 4.00 4.00

[0114] Manufacturing method

[0115] 1. Add glycerin to water and dissolve tetrasodium EDTA.

[0116] 2. Using a homogenizer, sprinkle in the Carbomer and continue homogenizing for 5 minutes or until hydrated.

[0117] 3. Heat the water phase to 70-75°C.

[0118] 4. Weigh the oil phase in a separate container and heat to 70-75°C. (Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate & PEG-100 Stearate, C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, PEG-20 Stearate)

[0119] 5. When both phases are at 70-75°C, add the oil phase to the water phase and homogenize for 2 minutes.

[0120] 6. Add potassium hydroxide and homogenize for 2 minutes.

[0121] 7. Cool to room temperature.

[0122] 8. Stir in phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin and water, glycerin, and argania spinosa leaf extract.

[0123] 9. Dissolve the maritime pine bark extract in a small amount of water by warming to 40-50°C and stirring to form a stock solution.

[0124] 10. Pre-dissolve resveratrol in denatured ethanol and stir to form a bulk solution.

[0125] 11. Make up to weight with water and mix well.

[0126] Example 4 - Gel

[0127]

[0128] Manufacturing method

[0129] 1. Add glycerin and propylene glycol to water and dissolve tetrasodium EDTA.

[0130] 2. Using homogenizer, sprinkle in Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer and continue homogenizing for 5 minutes or until hydrated.

[0131] 3. Stir in the potassium hydroxide to form a gel.

[0132] 4. Stir in phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin and water, glycerin, and argania spinosa leaf extract.

[0133] 5. Dissolve the maritime pine bark extract in a small amount of water by warming to 40-50°C and stirring to form a stock solution.

[0134] 6. Pre-dissolve resveratrol in denatured ethanol and stir to form a bulk solution.

[0135] 7. Make up to weight with water and mix well.

[0136] Example 5 - Detergent Wash

[0137] Material %w / w %w / w %w / w Sodium Laureth Sulfate 36 36 36 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 4 4 4 Cocamide DEA 1.5 1.5 1.5 Sodium chloride 1.5 1.5 1.5 Sodium Benzoate 0.3 0.3 0.3 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 0.05 Citric acid 0.05 0.05 0.05 Sodium hydroxide 0.05 0.05 0.05 water 50.15 49.15 49.95 Water & Glycerin & Argania spinosa Leaf Extract 2.00 2.50 1.80 Maritime Pine Bark Extract 0.20 0.10 0.40 Resveratrol 0.20 0.80 0.40 Denatured ethanol 4.00 4.00 4.00

[0138] Manufacturing method

[0139] 1. Add tetrasodium EDTA and sodium chloride to water.

[0140] 2. Stir in sodium laureth sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine, and cocamide DEA.

[0141] 3. Dissolve sodium benzoate in a small amount of water and stir to make a stock solution.

[0142] 4. Stir in water, glycerin and argania spinosa leaf extract.

[0143] 5. Dissolve the maritime pine bark extract in a small amount of water by warming to 40-50°C and stirring to form a stock solution.

[0144] 6. Pre-dissolve resveratrol in denatured ethanol and stir to form a bulk solution.

[0145] 7. Add sodium hydroxide and citric acid to achieve desired pH.

[0146] 8. Make up the weight with water and mix well

[0147] Additional antioxidant testing has been performed on the cosmetic compositions disclosed herein. This additional testing was performed using a The test was conducted. The test evaluates the antioxidant and chelating properties of the product (preparation) using electrochemistry; the antioxidant and chelating potential of cosmetics, nutritional products and pharmaceuticals is measured using electrochemical sensors to be able to evaluate the balance between the antioxidant and oxidative properties of the product. The product to be studied is diluted to a level of 10% wt / wt using an aqueous buffer (buffer provided by Qima Life Sciences for the preparation of suitable test samples) and deposited between the sensor and the analyzer. A potential is then applied and converted into an electric current. The electrical signal is analyzed using an algorithm and transcribed into a visual graph by a digital application. In this way, the antioxidant properties of the test product are obtained.

[0148] In the case of the compositions tested herein, the antioxidants were added to an oil-in-water emulsion matrix and sent to Qima for testing, along with a placebo matrix. The results provided are calculated as the area under the curve of the electrochemical response (arbitrary units). The Qima Life Sciences website is accessible at: https: / / qima-lifesciences.com / en / skin-biosense-antioxidant /

[0149] use Testing An antioxidant blend of Argania spinulosa leaf extract, maritime pine bark extract and resveratrol (each extract present at a level of 0.0001% to 1.0 wt % of the total composition) (Blend 1) was tested. The results obtained are shown graphically in Figure 3 These results also provide the following measurement results:

[0150] Support matrix (without antioxidant) = 111.9

[0151] Blend 1 = 226.1 (increase 114.2)

[0152] In drawing Figure 3 Prior to comparing the results in Figure 1, the collected data were processed to remove the area under the curve for the support matrix (matrix composition) from the area for blend 1. In this way, the increase in antioxidant activity provided by the use of antioxidant blend 1 according to the present invention over that provided by the support matrix alone was provided.

[0153] Figure 3 Also shown are the results obtained for two antioxidant complexes used in two existing Boots cosmetic products (Mulberry, Ginseng, Ascorbyl Glucoside = Old Blend 1, and Ginkgo, Emblica, Lipochroman = Old Blend 2). These old blends were incorporated into the new carrier matrix at levels corresponding to the new antioxidants. Two competitor cosmetic products claiming antioxidant protection were also tested (these results were also processed to remove the contribution made by the components included in the carrier matrix, in the case of competitor's product 1, the results were processed to remove the contribution made by phenoxyethanol; competitor's product 2 originally contained 10% ascorbic acid, but in Ascorbic acid was not detected in the test, possibly because the material is unstable in the formulation or has reacted with other substances since its manufacture). In addition, ascorbic acid was used as a control, which was created by dissolving ascorbic acid in water; it is worth noting that ascorbic acid is considered a strong antioxidant, but it has poor stability in cosmetic formulations.

[0154] Figure 3 The results in show that compositions comprising an antioxidant according to the present invention provide improved antioxidant protection compared to currently available existing compositions (products).

[0155] The following shows the Suitable support matrices tested:

[0156] Support matrix formulations - oil-in-water emulsions - for test

[0157]

[0158] Additional details of some commercially available materials sold under specified trademarks are provided below.

[0159] Commercially available materials list

[0160]

[0161] List of commercially available plant extracts

[0162]

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising antioxidants: Argania spinosa leaf extract, Pinus pinaster bark extract and resveratrol.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein The cosmetic composition further comprises one or more additional antioxidants.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein: The Argania spinosa leaf extract is present in an amount from about 0.0001% to about 1% by weight of the composition.

4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The Argania spinosa leaf extract is present in an amount of about 0.001% by weight of the composition.

5. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The maritime pine bark extract is present in an amount from about 0.0001% to about 1% by weight of the composition.

6. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The maritime pine bark extract is present in an amount of about 0.001% by weight of the composition.

7. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The resveratrol is present in an amount from about 0.0001% to about 1% by weight of the composition.

8. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The resveratrol is present in an amount of about 0.001% by weight of the composition.

9. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein At least two of the antioxidants are present in equal amounts.

10. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein Equal amounts of Argania spinulosa leaf extract, maritime pine bark extract, and resveratrol are present in the composition.

11. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The cosmetic composition is for topical application.

12. A method of cosmetically treating a skin / hair condition, the method comprising the step of applying to the skin / hair of a subject in need thereof a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

13. Use of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7 as a topical application on the skin / hair.

Images