Preparation method of floating-point four-way stretch fabric containing ecological wool and bio-based nylon blended yarn

Abstract

The invention discloses a preparation method of a floating-point four-way stretch fabric containing ecological wool and bio-based nylon blended yarns. The preparation method comprises the following steps: yarn selection and matching: warp yarns: bio-based nylon coated spandex yarns; the weft yarns A are bio-based nylon coated spandex yarns; the weft yarns B are bio-based nylon dot net composite filaments; weft yarns C are blended yarns of wool and bio-based nylon; weaving: weaving according to design requirements by adopting selected yarns to obtain a floating-point four-way stretch fabric; and dyeing and finishing: sequentially carrying out open-width cold batch, pre-setting, dyeing and final setting on the obtained floating-point four-way stretch fabric to obtain the floating-point four-way stretch fabric. The bio-based nylon is added into the fabric, so that the rebound resilience is enhanced, and the floating-point four-way elastic structure endows the fabric with good elasticity and extensibility in all directions, so that the fabric can quickly restore to the original shape after being stretched, and good appearance and shape are kept.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to a method for preparing a floating point four-way stretch fabric containing ecological wool and bio-based nylon blended yarn, and belongs to the technical field of clothing textiles. Background Art

[0002] As the living standards of domestic residents improve, consumers' requirements for the quality and functionality of clothing are also increasing. Wool fabrics have gradually met the needs of middle and high-end consumers for high-quality clothing, especially in the fields of sports and leisure, business formal wear, etc., and consumers' recognition of wool fabrics has gradually increased. However, traditional wool fabrics have limited elasticity and are easy to deform, which will affect the wearing experience and the service life of clothing. Summary of the invention

[0003] The purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing a floating point four-way stretch fabric containing ecological wool and bio-based nylon blended yarn. The addition of bio-based nylon enhances the resilience, and the floating point four-way stretch structure gives the fabric good elasticity and stretchability in all directions, so that the fabric can quickly recover to its original state after being stretched and maintain a good appearance and shape; at the same time, wool and bio-based nylon are combined to give play to the advantages of the two materials and improve durability. The high strength and wear resistance of bio-based nylon effectively protect the wool fibers and extend the service life of clothing.

[0004] In order to achieve the above object, the technical solution adopted by the present invention is:

[0005] A method for preparing a floating point four-way stretch fabric containing ecological wool and bio-based nylon blended yarn comprises the following steps:

[0006] S1. Yarn selection: Warp yarn: bio-based nylon coated spandex yarn; Weft yarn A: bio-based nylon coated spandex yarn; Weft yarn B: bio-based nylon dot net composite yarn; Weft yarn C: wool and bio-based nylon blended yarn;

[0007] S2, weaving: using the selected yarn and weaving according to the design requirements to obtain a floating point four-way stretch fabric;

[0008] S3, dyeing and finishing: the obtained floating point four-way stretch fabric is sequentially subjected to open width cold stacking, pre-setting, dyeing and final setting to obtain the floating point four-way stretch fabric.

[0009] Preferably, in the warp yarn and the weft yarn A, the content of bio-based nylon is 80-90%, and the content of spandex is 10-20%;

[0010] In the weft yarn C, the content of wool is 80-95% and the content of bio-based nylon is 5-25%.

[0011] Preferably, the specific method of open width cold stacking is: placing the floating point four-way stretch fabric in a soaking liquid for soaking treatment and then stacking for 10-60 hours;

[0012] The soaking liquid includes the following components in the following concentrations: cold stack agent W, 0.8-1.2 g / L; 30% hydrogen peroxide, 170-190 mL / L; surfactant JFC, 2-4 g / L; sodium carbonate, 1.2-1.7 g / L; and the balance is water.

[0013] Preferably, the pre-setting conditions are: setting machine speed 30-60 m / min, temperature 130-200° C., setting time 10-90 s.

[0014] Preferably, the specific dyeing method is: placing the floating point four-way stretch fabric in a dye solution at a bath ratio of 1:(8-12), heating it to 85-100° C. and maintaining it for 30-120 minutes.

[0015] Preferably, the dye liquor comprises the following components in the following contents and / or concentrations:

[0016] Dyeing agent: acid royal blue A-GK, 0.5-1.5%; acid medium three primary red B-NS, 0.5-1.5%; acid high fastness purple A-GL, 1-2%;

[0017] Additives: ammonium sulfate, 0.3-1.2g / L; glacial acetic acid, 0.2-0.8g / L; acid leveling agent 0.1-0.7g / L;

[0018] The balance is water;

[0019] The pH of the dye solution is 4-6.

[0020] Preferably, the final shaping conditions are: shaping machine speed 30-60 m / min, temperature 130-200° C., shaping time 10-90 s.

[0021] The beneficial effects of the present invention are:

[0022] 1. The floating point four-way stretch fabric has excellent elasticity and can fit the body curve to adapt to various movements. It also solves the problem of poor elasticity and easy deformation of traditional wool fabrics. The addition of bio-based nylon enhances the resilience, so that the fabric can quickly return to its original shape after stretching, maintaining a good appearance and shape. At the same time, the combination of wool and bio-based nylon takes advantage of the two materials and improves durability. The high strength and wear resistance of bio-based nylon effectively protect the wool fibers and extend the service life of clothing.

[0023] 2. Bio-based nylon, as a sustainable development material, can reduce dependence on non-renewable resources. Wool is a natural renewable resource. The combination of the two meets the requirements of environmental protection and sustainable development, providing consumers with a more environmentally friendly choice. In addition, the production process of bio-based nylon is relatively environmentally friendly, which can reduce greenhouse gas emissions and energy consumption, help reduce the pollution of the textile industry to the environment, and promote the industry to develop in a green and sustainable direction.

[0024] 3. In existing fabrics, wool and other fibers are usually dyed and finished before weaving. This method is prone to color difference problems in fabrics due to the differences in dye adsorption and dyeing effects of different fibers, and is affected by weaving tension, yarn interlacing methods, etc. This application adopts a one-step dyeing and finishing method, and uses low-temperature dyeing technology to dye different yarns at the same time. Low-temperature dyeing reduces energy consumption and fiber damage, ensures the dyeing consistency of wool and bio-based nylon, and avoids color difference; achieves high color uniformity by precisely controlling dyeing process parameters, ensures that wool and bio-based nylon can be fully colored, and has good color accuracy and stability. At the same time, pay attention to the impact on elasticity during the dyeing process to avoid reduced elasticity of the fabric due to improper dyeing technology. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0025] Figure 1 This is the organizational structure diagram of the floating point four-way stretch fabric;

[0026] Figure 2 This is a floating point four-way stretch fabric weft yarn count arrangement diagram;

[0027] Figure 3 This is the finished product effect picture of the floating point four-way stretch fabric. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0028] The present invention will be specifically described below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings and embodiments.

[0029] This embodiment provides a method for preparing a floating point four-way stretch fabric containing ecological wool and bio-based nylon blended yarn, comprising the following steps:

[0030] 1. Yarn selection

[0031] The warp yarn is 87% bio-based nylon 56 as the outer fiber and 13% spandex as the core yarn, forming a covered yarn structure to meet the hand feel requirements; the weft yarn A is 87% bio-based nylon 56 coated with 13% spandex (the same as the warp yarn) to meet the hand feel requirements; the weft yarn B is 100% bio-based nylon PA56 DTY-FD 70D / 68F dot mesh composite yarn to meet the elasticity requirements; the weft yarn C is 90% wool / 10% bio-based nylon 56 blended yarn to improve the warmth retention effect of the fabric.

[0032] 2. Weaving

[0033] The Itema 9500 rapier machine is used to weave a four-way stretch fabric with a twill surface and a floating point structure on the back. The fabric structure is as follows Figure 1As shown. The opening device of the loom is an electronic opening mechanism. The weft insertion mechanism adopts a separate sley, that is, the weft insertion rapier does not move with the sley, and the sley is in a static state during weft insertion. A conjugate weft beating mechanism is adopted, and the forward and backward movements of the sley are both active movements, which is conducive to the high-speed rapier loom. Electronic winding and electronic warp feeding methods are adopted. The values ​​of fabric weaving process parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0034] Table 1 Fabric weaving process parameters

[0035]

[0036] In the warp direction, 87% bio-based nylon 56 coated with 13% spandex yarn is used, with a density of 155 / int. In the weft direction, 87% bio-based nylon 56 coated with 13% spandex yarn, bio-based nylon PA56 DTY-FD 70D / 68F dot net composite yarn and 90% wool / 10% bio-based nylon 56 blended yarn are used for weft arrangement, with a density of 100 / int; the weft yarn count arrangement diagram is as follows Figure 2 The cam curve is adjusted in the loom to achieve the structure of twill on the surface of the fabric and raised points on the back.

[0037] By considering factors such as the weft pattern of the yarn, the dot-net composite yarn of the yarn and the weaving method, the design results in a twill pattern on the front and a dotted structure on the back, adding a different visual effect and a unique touch. Its excellent four-way elasticity can give the fabric good elasticity and stretchability in all directions, allowing the warmth retention properties of wool and the excellent elasticity of bio-based nylon to meet the different usage needs of a four-way stretch fabric.

[0038] 3. Dyeing and finishing

[0039] There are many similarities in the molecular structure and properties of wool and nylon. First of all, there are amide bonds in the macromolecular structure of these two fibers, and there are a large number of amino and carboxyl groups at the ends of the fiber molecules. The main components of the molecular structure are the four elements of C, H, O, and N. Secondly, these two amide fibers have the characteristics of amphoteric fibers and have a certain "isoelectric point". The isoelectric point of wool fiber is 4.2-4.8, and the isoelectric point of nylon fiber is about 5.0-6.5. Due to the amphoteric properties of these two fibers, they can be dyed with acid dyes, reactive dyes, and direct dyes. The fabrics of single-component fibers have a mature dyeing process, but multi-component fibers usually need to make different choices of the dyes used according to the different structural characteristics of each component fiber, and the dyeing conditions of each dye are not the same. Dyeing mostly adopts a one-bath two-step or two-bath dyeing process, or requires process improvements, etc., to achieve the same color dyeing effect.

[0040] The present application further provides a process route for dyeing finished fabrics simultaneously. The process uses a one-step method to dye wool and bio-based nylon simultaneously, and optimizes dyeing process parameters such as dyeing temperature, time, pH value, etc., to ensure that wool and bio-based nylon can be fully colored, and the color accuracy and stability are good. At the same time, attention should be paid to the effect on elasticity during the dyeing process to avoid the elasticity of the fabric being reduced due to improper dyeing process. After the fabric is made, the fabric goes through the process links of flat-width cold stacking, pre-setting, one-step dyeing, final setting, and exiting the cylinder.

[0041] Specifically, the open width cold stacking is to soak the fabric at room temperature, and the soaking liquid is composed of cold stacking agent W (1g / L), 30% hydrogen peroxide (180mL / L), surfactant JFC (3g / L), sodium carbonate (1.5g / L), and the balance is water. The padder evenly pads the soaked fabric and then stacks it for 48 hours to remove impurities on the fabric, improve its hygroscopicity and whiteness, and prepare for the subsequent dyeing process.

[0042] In order to solve various tension-related problems that may occur during the production process of fabrics, a pre-setting method is adopted to process the fabrics. The speed of the setting machine is 50m / min, the temperature of the setting machine is set to 170℃, and the high-temperature setting time lasts for 60S.

[0043] In the one-step dyeing process, the dyes are acid royal blue A-GK (1.2%), acid medium three primary red B-NS (0.9%), and acid high fastness purple A-GL (1.4%); the dosage of auxiliaries is ammonium sulfate (0.75g / L), glacial acetic acid (0.5g / L), acid leveling agent AL-400 (0.42g / L), and the balance is water. The temperature is set to 95°C, and the pH value is controlled at 4.8. The pre-shaped grey cloth is placed in the dye solution at a bath ratio of 1:10, and then slowly heated to 97°C. The temperature is kept at this temperature for 60 minutes to ensure that the dye can fully adhere to the bio-based nylon and wool fibers. During the dyeing period, the dye solution needs to be stirred continuously to ensure the uniformity of the dyeing.

[0044] During final shaping, the shaping machine speed is 50m / min, the shaping machine temperature is set to 170℃, and the high temperature shaping time lasts for 60S. After high temperature shaping, the floating point four-way stretch fabric is taken out of the cylinder. The finished product effect is shown in the figure Figure 3 shown.

[0045] In this embodiment, the yarn thickness and density mentioned are matched, not limited to the specific parameters provided. The bio-based nylon mentioned can also be replaced by ordinary nylon yarn. The back wool floating point mentioned is not limited to this article, and the structure that can be outlined can use this technology to achieve the back wool floating point.

[0046] The above is only a preferred implementation of the patent of the present invention. It should be pointed out that for ordinary technicians in this technical field, several improvements and modifications can be made without departing from the principle of the patent of the present invention. These improvements and modifications should also be regarded as the scope of protection of the patent of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for preparing a floating point four-way stretch fabric containing ecological wool and bio-based nylon blended yarn, characterized in that: The steps include: S1. Yarn selection: Warp yarn: bio-based nylon coated spandex yarn; Weft yarn A: bio-based nylon coated spandex yarn; Weft yarn B: bio-based nylon dot net composite yarn; Weft yarn C: wool and bio-based nylon blended yarn; S2, weaving: using the selected yarn and weaving according to the design requirements to obtain a floating point four-way stretch fabric; S3, dyeing and finishing: the obtained floating point four-way stretch fabric is sequentially subjected to open width cold stacking, pre-setting, dyeing and final setting to obtain the floating point four-way stretch fabric.

2. The method for preparing the floating point four-way stretch fabric containing ecological wool and bio-based nylon blended yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the warp and weft yarn A, the content of bio-based nylon is 80-90%, and the content of spandex is 10-20%; In the weft yarn C, the content of wool is 80-95% and the content of bio-based nylon is 5-25%.

3. The method for preparing the floating point four-way stretch fabric containing ecological wool and bio-based nylon blended yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that: The specific method of open width cold stacking is: put the floating point four-way stretch fabric into the soaking liquid for soaking treatment and then stack it for 10-60 hours; The soaking solution includes the following components in the following concentrations: cold stack agent W, 0.8-1.2 g / L; 30% hydrogen peroxide, 170-190 mL / L; Surfactant JFC, 2-4 g / L; sodium carbonate, 1.2-1.7 g / L; the balance is water.

4. The method for preparing the floating point four-way stretch fabric containing ecological wool and bio-based nylon blended yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that: The pre-setting conditions are: setting machine speed 30-60m / min, temperature 130-200℃, setting time 10-90s.

5. The method for preparing the floating point four-way stretch fabric containing ecological wool and bio-based nylon blended yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that: The specific dyeing method is: placing the floating point four-way stretch fabric in the dye solution at a bath ratio of 1:(8-12), heating it to 85-100° C. and keeping it for 30-120 minutes.

6. The method for preparing the floating point four-way stretch fabric containing ecological wool and bio-based nylon blended yarn according to claim 5, characterized in that: The dye liquor includes the following components in the following amounts and / or concentrations: Dye: Acid royal blue A-GK, 0.5-1.5%; Acid red B-NS, 0.5-1.5%; Acid high fastness purple A-GL, 1-2%; Additives: ammonium sulfate, 0.3-1.2g / L; glacial acetic acid, 0.2-0.8g / L; acid leveling agent 0.1-0.7g / L; The balance is water; The pH of the dye solution is 4-6.

7. The method for preparing the floating point four-way stretch fabric containing ecological wool and bio-based nylon blended yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that: The final shaping conditions are: shaping machine speed 30-60m / min, temperature 130-200℃, shaping time 10-90s.

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