Composition comprising peroxide salt, specific content of fatty substance, amino acid-type compound, and specific (poly) carboxylic acid

By using a composition containing peroxide salt, fatty substance, amino acid-type compounds and citric acid, the damage to the beauty characteristics and mechanical strength of hair brightening in the prior art is solved, and a significant brightening effect and good use quality are achieved.

CN119546274APending Publication Date: 2025-02-28LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202380050182.0
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2022-06-29
Filing Date
2023-06-28
Publication Date
2025-02-28

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair brightening methods can easily damage the beauty characteristics and mechanical strength of the hair when it is brightened in depth, and it challenges the shape and distribution of curly hair.

Method used

A composition is used that comprises peroxide salts, fatty substances, amino acid compounds and citric acid and is free of hydrogen peroxide for brightening keratin fibers, especially hair. The pH of the composition is adjusted to alkaline to activate the oxidant and improves the treatment quality and styling effect of the hair through specific ratios and compositions.

Benefits of technology

It achieves a significant brightening effect, extending to 9 shades, has no significant negative impact on the beauty characteristics of the hair, and has good quality of use and roughness control, especially suitable for the maintenance and styling of curly hair.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for lightening keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising one or more peroxidation salts, one or more fatty substances in an amount greater than 10% by weight, one or more compounds of the amino acid type, and one or more specific (poly) carboxylic acids, the composition is free of hydrogen peroxide. The invention also relates to a method for lightening keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising applying a composition to said keratin fibres.
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Description

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a composition for lightening keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising one or more peroxygenated salts, one or more fatty substances in specific amounts, one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more specific (poly)carboxylic acids.

[0002] The invention also relates to a method for lightening human keratin fibers using such a composition.

[0003] In the art of hair lightening, depth of tone is often used to characterize the degree or level of lightening. The concept of "tone" is based on a classification of natural shades, where a hue separates each shade from the shade immediately behind or before it. This definition and classification of natural shades is well known to hair styling professionals and is disclosed in Charles Zviak's book Sciences des traitements capillaires [The Science of Hair Care], 1988, published by Masson, pages 215 and 278.

[0004] Tonal depths range from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest gold), with one integer corresponding to one hue; the higher the number, the lighter the hue.

[0005] Lightening thus makes it possible to provide a lighter shade depth than the original natural shade depth of the entire head of hair.

[0006] The methods for lightening the hair generally consist in using, in the vast majority of cases under alkaline pH conditions, an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent.

[0007] The role of this oxidizing agent is to degrade the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, results in a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. Thus, for relatively mild lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When a more pronounced lightening is desired, in particular an increase of at least 5 shades, peroxide salts, such as persulfates, are generally used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. These peroxide salts are contained in compositions which, at the time of use, are mixed with an aqueous composition comprising hydrogen peroxide.

[0008] In order to adjust the pH of the composition to an alkaline pH so as to enable the activation of the oxidizing agent, an alkaline agent is used. This alkaline agent also causes swelling of the keratin fibers, while opening the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent into the fibers and thus improves the reaction efficiency.

[0009] However, the use of alkaline agents and peroxide salts has the consequence that the quality of the hair may be adversely affected. The main reasons for this adverse effect on the quality of the hair are a reduction in its cosmetic properties, such as a reduction in its gloss, and a deterioration in its mechanical properties, more particularly its mechanical strength, which can also be reflected in an increase in its porosity. The hair becomes weaker and may become brittle during subsequent treatments, such as blow-drying. Increased roughness is also observed, which is not particularly attractive.

[0010] Therefore, lightening dark hair is particularly difficult because if it is desired to significantly lighten the hair, significant amounts of peroxide salts need to be used and this can make the hair brittle.

[0011] Additionally, lightening compositions applied to extremely curly hair tend to alter the shape of the curls, which are often less defined.

[0012] Furthermore, compositions containing peroxide salts are usually in powder form. However, since powder compositions have the disadvantage of generating dust during handling, transportation and storage, compositions in the form of pastes have been proposed. Therefore, powder compositions are dispersed in a thickened organic inert liquid carrier, which provides a solution to the volatility problem.

[0013] However, the use of compositions in the form of pastes raises new problems.

[0014] These pastes are usually anhydrous and have a dense, hard texture. As a result, mixing the paste and the hydrogen peroxide composition is far from simple. This is reflected not only in the relatively long mixing times, but also in the difficulty in obtaining a homogeneous and stable mixture.

[0015] Furthermore, the resulting lightening compositions may be difficult to spread evenly throughout the hair, particularly curly or very curly hair, which may result in undesirably uneven lightening performance.

[0016] One of the objects of the present invention is therefore to propose compositions for lightening keratin materials, preferably human keratin fibers such as the hair, which do not have the disadvantages mentioned above, i.e. which are able to provide very good lightening properties without adversely affecting the cosmetic properties of the hair and which at the same time have very good qualities in use, in particular as regards the properties of the hair.

[0017] These and other objects are achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is therefore a composition comprising:

[0018] - one or more peroxide salts;

[0019] - one or more fatty substances, the total content of which is greater than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0020] - one or more amino acid type compounds; and

[0021] - citric acid and / or its salts;

[0022] The composition does not contain hydrogen peroxide.

[0023] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, preferably the hair.

[0024] The invention also relates to a lightening method implementing said composition, to the use of said composition for lightening keratin fibres, and in particular the hair, and to a multi-compartment device suitable for implementing said lightening method.

[0025] The compositions according to the invention lead to significant lightening levels, extending up to 9 shades, without any major adverse effect on the cosmetic properties of the hair, with improved qualities in use.

[0026] In particular, the composition according to the invention is mixed quickly and easily with an aqueous composition of hydrogen peroxide so as to obtain a homogeneous and stable mixture. The mixture obtained is easy to apply to the hair. Its presentation form (as a smooth cream) makes it possible in particular to prevent running during application, while being easily spread over the hair, even in the case of extremely curly hair. In addition, the mixture does not dry out during the residence time, so that the active ingredients are optimally available during the entire residence time. In addition, the mixture is easy to rinse off.

[0027] The cosmetic properties of the hair treated with the composition according to the invention are not significantly adversely affected, in particular in terms of softness and detangling. The composition makes it possible to particularly condition the hair and to limit hair breakage during detangling of the hair, in particular of very curly hair. When it is applied to very curly hair, it also makes it possible to maintain the shape of the curls, thus providing them with good styling. The composition also makes it possible to have a good frizz control.

[0028] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent after reading the following description and examples.

[0029] In the text below, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in the range, especially in the expressions "between" and "ranging from to".

[0030] In addition, the expression "at least one" used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0031] Peroxide salt

[0032] The compositions according to the invention comprise one or more peroxygenated salts.

[0033] Preferably, the peroxygenated salt is selected from persulfates; perborates; peracids and / or salts thereof; alkali metal, alkaline earth metal percarbonates or ammonium percarbonate; magnesium peroxide; and mixtures thereof.

[0034] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one persulfate.

[0035] For the purposes of the present invention, persulfate (also called peroxysulfate) corresponds to SO5 2- Anion (peroxymonosulfate anion) or S2O8 2- anion (peroxodisulfate anion) or a compound comprising at least one of these anions.

[0036] Preferably, the persulfates according to the invention are chosen from peroxodisulfates.

[0037] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one peroxygenated salt selected from persulfates; preferably selected from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof; even more preferably selected from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof; even better selected from potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0038] Preferably, the total content of peroxygenated salts present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 1% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 55% by weight, even more preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, even better still from 20% to 45% by weight, indeed even from 30% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] Preferably, the total content of persulfate present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 1% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 55% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, even better still from 20% to 45% by weight, indeed even from 30% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] Fatty substances

[0041] As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more fatty substances.

[0042] "Fat material" means a substance which is a substance which is present at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10 5Fatty substances are organic compounds which are insoluble in water at 400 ℃ and 800 ℃ (solubility less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane under the same temperature and pressure conditions.

[0043] Advantageously, the fatty substances that can be used according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0044] Preferably, the fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-silicone.

[0045] A "non-silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance which does not contain any Si-O bonds, and a "silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance which contains at least one Si-O bond.

[0046] Fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. "Liquid fatty substances" means fatty substances which are liquid fatty substances (or oils) at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10 5 A fatty substance having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Fatty substances with a melting point greater than 25°C at 370°C.

[0047] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC), as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instrument. In the present application, all melting points are at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa) was measured.

[0048] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance according to the invention is chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] It is contemplated that fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted in particular with one or more, in particular 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0050] As for C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, they may be linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and are preferably selected from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins (such as isohexadecane or isodecane), and mixtures thereof.

[0051] The liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched and of inorganic or synthetic origin and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffin or liquid petrolatum (INCI names: mineral oil or liquid paraffin), polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene (such as ), and mixtures thereof.

[0052] A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.

[0053] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, or alternatively, such as sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia oil, aurora oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides (such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois in France or by Dynamit Nobel under the name 810, 812 and 818), jojoba oil and shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, which are commercially available from BNFL Fluorochemicals under the name PC1 and PC3; Perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; Perfluoroalkanes, such as those sold by 3M under the name PF and PF Dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane sold by Atochem under the name Perfluorooctyl bromide; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as those sold by 3M under the name PF 4-Trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine for sale.

[0055] The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0056] As regards the previously mentioned liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polybasic acids and saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyhydric alcohols, the total carbon number of these esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0057] Preferably, for esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0058] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] Still within the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0061] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearate; pentaerythritol monoricinoleate; pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate; pentaerythritol tetranonanoate; pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl tricaprylate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] The composition may also contain sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids as fatty esters. It is contemplated that "sugar" means oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compounds with several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0063] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0064] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the above-mentioned sugars and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0065] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0066] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate or mixtures thereof, in particular such as the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate.

[0067] More particularly, use is made of the monoesters and diesters, and especially the mono- or di-oleates, stearates, behenates, oleyl palmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] For example, one may mention the company Amerchol under the name A product sold by DO, which is methyl glucose dioleate.

[0069] Preferably, liquid esters of monobasic acids and monohydric alcohols will be used.

[0070] The silicone oils that can be used in the composition according to the invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, unmodified or modified with organic groups and preferably have an OD of from 5×10 -6 Up to 2.5m 2 / s, and preferably 1×10 -5 Up to 1m 2 / s viscosity.

[0071] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aromatic group.

[0072] These silicone oils may also be organomodified.The organomodified silicone oils that can be used according to the invention are preferably liquid silicones as previously defined comprising in their structure one or more organic functional groups attached via hydrocarbon-based groups, for example chosen from amine and alkoxy groups.

[0073] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.

[0074] When they are volatile, the silicone oils are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C., and even more particularly from:

[0075] (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are marketed, for example, in particular by Union Carbide under the name Volatile 7207 or by Rhodia under the name Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold under the name Volatile by Union Carbide 7158 and by Rhodia under the name Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold as 70045V5, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Mention may also be made of cyclic copolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile sold by Union Carbide. FZ 3109.

[0077] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with compounds derived from silicones, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetrakis(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50 / 50) and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1′-bis(2,2,2′,2′,3,3′-hexatrimethylsiloxy)neopentane;

[0078] (ii) having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a carbon content of less than or equal to 5×10 -6 m 2 Straight-chain volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of 1000 Å / s are used. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular by Toray Silicone under the name SH 200. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in the article Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics by Todd & Byers, Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32.

[0079] Preference is given to using nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes.

[0080] These silicone oils are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes carrying trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of these silicones is measured at 25° C. according to standard ASTM 445, annex C.

[0081] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made in a non-limiting manner of the following commercial products:

[0082] - 47 and 70 047 series sold by Rhodia Oil or Oil, for example oil 70047V 500 000;

[0083] - Marketed by Rhodia Series of oils;

[0084] - Oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning, such as those with 60000 mm 2 / s viscosity DC200;

[0085] - From General Electric oils, and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0086] Mention may also be made of the polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

[0087] The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the invention are silicones as defined previously comprising in their structure one or more organic functional groups attached via hydrocarbon-based groups.

[0088] As regards the liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aromatic group, they may in particular be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

[0089] These polyalkylaryl siloxanes are particularly selected from those having a range of from 1×10 -5 Up to 5×10 -2 m 2 / s linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenyl siloxane and polydimethyl / diphenyl siloxane having a viscosity of 1.1777 W / s.

[0090] Among these polyalkylaryl siloxanes, mention may be made, by way of example, of the products sold under the following names:

[0091] - 70 641 series from Rhodia Oil;

[0092] -From Rhodia 70 Oils of the 633 and 763 series;

[0093] - oil from Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid;

[0094] - Silicones from the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

[0095] - Silicones from the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;

[0096] - Certain oils from the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0097] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

[0098] - substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by Genesee or the products sold under the names Q28220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by Dow Corning. Substituted amine groups are especially C1 to C4 aminoalkyl groups;

[0099] - alkoxylated groups,

[0100] -Hydroxy.

[0101] The solid fatty material according to the invention preferably has a temperature range of 25° C. and 1 s -1 The viscosity is greater than 2 Pa.s measured at a shear rate of .

[0102] The solid fatty substances are preferably selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

[0103] "Fatty acid" means a long-chain carboxylic acid containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably contain from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylened nor glycerolated.

[0104] The solid fatty acids that can be used in the present invention are chosen in particular from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] Particularly preferably, the solid fatty acid is selected from stearic acid, myristic acid and palmitic acid.

[0106] "Fatty alcohols" are understood to mean long-chain fatty alcohols containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and containing at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0107] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched and contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, in which R indicates a linear alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, the alkyl group containing from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, indeed even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0108] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated (mono)alcohols containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, indeed even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0109] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be selected from the following items, alone or as a mixture: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecyl alcohol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignocerol (or 1-tetracosanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanol (or 1-octacosanol); beeswax alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0110] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0111] The solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols which can be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

[0112] Preferably, the solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and a linear or branched saturated monohydric alcohol containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acid may optionally be hydroxylated and is preferably a monocarboxylic acid.

[0113] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0114] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl nonanoate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] Preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristic acid esters, such as cetyl myristic acid, stearyl myristic acid and myristyl myristic acid; and C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0116] For the purposes of the present invention, waxes are lipophilic compounds that are solid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure, have a reversible solid / liquid state change, have a melting point greater than about 40° C. and can be up to 200° C., and have an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, providing a substantially opaque, turbid appearance to the composition containing them. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with the oil and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but when returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is achieved, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence).

[0117] In particular, the waxes suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as beeswax (especially of biological origin), lanolin wax and Chinese worm wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, cocoa wax, esparto wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, zeolites; polyethylene waxes, waxes and wax copolymers obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and also esters thereof.

[0119] Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0120] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0121] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may be made in particular of isomerized jojoba oils, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oils, in particular those marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba- Products manufactured or sold, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, in particular by the company Heterene under the name Hest 2T- Products for sale.

[0122] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenating castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the name Phytowax Castor by the company Sophim. and The ones that are sold.

[0123] Waxes that can also be used are C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearates (the alkyl group contains from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such waxes are especially marketed by Koster Keunen under the name Kester Wax K 82 Hydroxypolyester K 82 and Kester Wax K 80 Sale.

[0124] Microwaxes may also be used in the compositions of the invention; mention may in particular be made of carnauba microcrystalline wax, such as that marketed by Micro Powders under the name MicroCare Products sold; synthetic wax microcrystalline wax, such as those sold by American Micronized Powder Company under the name MicroEase Products sold; microcrystalline wax consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as that sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Micro Care and Products sold; microcrystalline wax consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic waxes, such as those sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Micro Care Products sold; Polyethylene microcrystalline wax, such as those sold by American Micronized Powder Company under the name Micropoly and products sold; and polytetrafluoroethylene microcrystalline wax, such as that sold by Micronized Powder Company of America under the name Microslip and 519 Products for sale.

[0125] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for example paraffin, vaseline, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes, for example cocoa butter or softwood or sugar cane wax, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, carnauba wax, chrysanthemum wax, candelilla wax, clover wax or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the blackcurrant flower essence wax sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for example beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0126] The ceramides or ceramide analogs such as glycosylceramides that can be used in the composition according to the invention are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0127] The ceramide or its analogue that can be used preferably corresponds to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), wherein:

[0128] R1 indicates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C14-C30 fatty acid, which group may be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the α position or a hydroxyl group in the Ω position, which hydroxyl group is esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0129] R2 indicates a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, wherein n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0130] R3 indicates a saturated or unsaturated C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group in the α position, which group may be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it should be understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycosylceramides, R3 may also indicate a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl group, which hydroxyl group is optionally esterified with a C16-C30 α-hydroxy acid.

[0131] More particularly preferred ceramides are compounds in which R1 indicates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C16-C22 fatty acid; R2 indicates a hydrogen atom; and R3 indicates a saturated straight-chain C15 group.

[0132] Preferably, ceramide is used in which R1 indicates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C14-C30 fatty acid; R2 indicates a galactosyl group or a sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 indicates a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0133] Compounds can also be used in which R1 indicates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C12-C22 fatty acid; R2 indicates a galactosyl group or a sulfogalactosyl group and R3 indicates a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon-based group, and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0134] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, and In particular, N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyl sphingosine, N-oleoyl sphingosine, N-palmitoyl sphingosine, N-stearoyl sphingosine, and N-behenoyl sphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucosamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyl sphingosine is used.

[0135] The solid fatty materials are preferably selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0136] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0137] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular liquid vaseline, liquid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0138] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular liquid vaseline.

[0139] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0140] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular liquid vaseline, and at least one solid fatty substance, preferably at least one wax.

[0141] Preferably, the total content of liquid fatty substances in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 10.5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 20% by weight, even better still greater than or equal to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] Preferably, the total content of fatty substances in the composition according to the invention ranges from 10.5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 12% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 40% by weight, better still from 20% to 35% by weight and even better still from 25% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] Preferably, the total content of liquid fatty matter in the composition according to the invention ranges from 10.5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 12% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 40% by weight, better still from 20% to 35% by weight and even better still from 25% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] Amino acid compounds

[0145] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino acid type compounds.

[0146] For the purposes of the present invention, "amino acid type compound" means an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functional groups and one or more amine functional groups, which may be endocyclic, optionally in salt form.

[0147] Preferably, the amino acid type compound is selected from amino acid type compounds and / or salts thereof which contain only one or more carboxylic acid functions (and thus do not contain any sulfonic acid functions). Said compounds are also known as aminocarboxylic acid type compounds and are particularly preferred.

[0148] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from compounds corresponding to the following formula (I) and / or salts thereof.

[0149] Therefore, the amino acid type compound may correspond to formula (I):

[0150]

[0151] Where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it should be understood that:

[0152] When p=1, R and the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring may be optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl or (C1-C4) alkyl;

[0153] - when p=2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C12)alkyl group, preferably a (C1-C4)alkyl group, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or is optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2;

[0154] Preferably, when p=1, R and the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing 5 ring members, which ring is unsubstituted.

[0155] Preferably, p=2.

[0156] Preferably, when p=2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, which is optionally interrupted by a -S- heteroatom and / or is optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0157] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0158] The amino acid-type compound may also be a salt of the compound of formula (I).

[0159] These include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts, and zinc salts.

[0160] The amino acid type compound may be in the form of an optical isomer in the L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably the L configuration.

[0161] As examples of the compound according to the present invention in the form of an optical isomer in the L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0162] Preferably, the amino acid compound according to the present invention is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof (particularly alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0163] Preferably, the amino acid type compound according to the present invention is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0164] Even better, the amino acid type compound is selected from glycine, its salts (especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0165] As glycinates according to the invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0166] Preferably, the amino acid type compound is glycine.

[0167] The total content of amino acid-based compounds present in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, still more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and even better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0168] In particular, the total content of amino acid-type compounds in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, still more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and even better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0169] Even better, the total content of amino acid-type compounds selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] Most particularly, the total content of amino acid type compounds selected from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, still more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and even better from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] Even better, the content of glycine in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even better from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] Citric Acid

[0173] The composition according to the invention comprises citric acid, its salts or mixtures thereof.

[0174] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains citric acid, its salts or their mixtures in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight and indeed even from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] Surfactants

[0176] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more surfactants. These surfactants may preferably be selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof.

[0177] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise one or more surfactants.

[0178] “ Anionic surfactants " means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably selected from the following groups: CO2H, CO2 - 、SO3H、SO3 - 、OSO3H、OSO3 - 、H2PO3、HPO3 - PO3 2- 、H2PO2、HPO2 - PO2 2- , POH and PO - .

[0179] As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl amide sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-(C1-C4) alkyl N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactosiduronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amido ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl radicals of all these compounds (unless otherwise indicated) generally contain from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl radical generally indicates a phenyl radical.

[0180] Among the anionic surfactants, mention may be made, in addition to the (poly)carboxylic acids described above, of the salts of fatty acids, in particular of C8-C24 fatty acids, preferably C12-C20 fatty acids.

[0181] These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy units.

[0182] Polyglycosides - C6-C 24 The salt of the alkyl monoester can be selected from C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-citrate, C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-tartrate and C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinate.

[0183] When the anionic surfactants are in salt form, they may be selected from alkali metal salts (such as sodium or potassium salts, and preferably sodium salts), ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.

[0184] As examples of aminoalcohol salts, mention may in particular be made of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0185] Preference is given to using alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0186] The anionic surfactant which is optionally present may be a mild anionic surfactant, ie an anionic surfactant which does not contain a sulfate functional group.

[0187] As mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, and also of their mixtures: polyoxyalkylened carboxylic acid alkyl ethers; polyoxyalkylened carboxylic acid alkyl aryl ethers; polyoxyalkylened carboxylic acid alkyl amido ethers, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethyleneoxy groups; alkyl D-galactosiduronic acids; acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates; and alkyl polyglycoside carboxylates.

[0188] Use may most particularly be made of polyoxyalkylened carboxylic acid alkyl ethers, for example lauryl ether carboxylate (4.5 EO), for example sold under the name AKYPO RLM 45CA by Kao Corporation (KAO).

[0189] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, sulfated surfactants such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and acyl glutamates, salts of C12-C20 fatty acids are preferably used, and alkyl sulfates and salts of C12-C20 fatty acids are more preferred.

[0190] Can be used in the composition according to the present invention Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants Preferred are non-silicone surfactants and may in particular be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic group is a straight or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the amine derivative containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0191] Particular mention may be made of (C8-C 20 ) alkyl betaine, (C8-C 20 ) alkyl sulfobetaine, (C8-C 20 ) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkyl betaine and (C8-C 20 )alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylsulfonobetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0192] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the corresponding structures (III) and (IV) below:

[0193] R a -CONHCH2CH2-N + (R b )(R c )-CH2COO - ,M + ,X - (III)

[0194] In formula (III):

[0195] -R a denotes an acid R derived from preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut kernel oil a C of COOH 10 To C 30 alkyl or alkenyl; preferably, R a represents heptyl, nonyl or undecyl;

[0196] -R b represents β-hydroxyethyl;

[0197] -R c represents carboxymethyl;

[0198] -M + represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; and

[0199] -X -represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as an anionic counterion selected from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or alternatively, M + and X - does not exist;

[0200] R a '-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B')(IV)

[0201] In formula (IV):

[0202] -B represents a group -CH2CH2OX';

[0203] -B' represents the group -(CH2) z Y', where z = 1 or 2;

[0204] -X' represents a group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0205] -Y' represents a group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or a group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z';

[0206] -Z' represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0207] -R a ' represents the acid R preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil a '-COOH C 10 To C 30 alkyl or alkenyl; preferably, R a ' is an alkyl group, especially C 17 Groups, and isomeric forms thereof, or unsaturated C 17 Group.

[0208] These compounds are classified in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0209] By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold by Rhodia under the trade name Cocoamphodiacetate sold by C2M Concentrate.

[0210] Compounds of formula (V) may also be used:

[0211] R a ”-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2) n CONH(CH2) n' -N(R d )(R e )(V)

[0212] In formula (V):

[0213] -Y" represents a group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or a group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z";

[0214] -R d and R e independently of one another represent a C1 to C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group;

[0215] -Z" represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0216] -R a " represents the acid R preferably present in coconut kernel oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil a -COOH C 10 To C 30 an alkyl or alkenyl group; and

[0217] -n and n' indicate an integer ranging from 1 to 3 independently of each other.

[0218] Among the compounds of formula (V), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoyl aspartamide and sold under the name Chimexane HB by the company Chimex.

[0219] These compounds may be used alone or as a mixture.

[0220] Among the above-mentioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (C8-C 20 ) alkyl betaine such as cocoyl betaine, (C8-C 20 ) alkylamido (C3-C8) alkyl betaine such as cocoamidopropyl betaine, (C8-C 20 ) alkyl amphoacetate, (C8-C 20 ) alkyl amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; and preferably (C8-C 20) alkyl betaine, (C8-C 20 )alkylamido (C3-C8) alkyl betaine and mixtures thereof.

[0221] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is selected from (C8-C 20 ) alkyl betaine, (C8-C 20 ) alkylamido (C3-C8) alkyl betaine, and mixtures thereof,

[0222] The compositions of the present invention can be used Nonionic surfactants Described in particular in, for example, MR Porter, Handbook of Surfactants, Blackie & Son Publishers, Glasgow and London, 1991, pp. 116-178.

[0223] As examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following compounds, either alone or as a mixture:

[0224] -oxyalkylene (C8-C 24 ) alkylphenol;

[0225] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C 40 alcohol, preferably containing one or two fatty chains;

[0226] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylened C8 to C 30 Fatty acid amides;

[0227] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C 30 Esters of acids and polyethylene glycols;

[0228] - fatty acid esters of sucrose;

[0229] - preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C 30 Oxyethylidene esters of acids and sorbitol;

[0230] -C8-C of Sorbitan 30 Fatty acid esters;

[0231] -Polyoxyethylidene sorbitan C8-C 30 Fatty acid esters;

[0232] -(C8-C 30 ) alkyl (poly) glucoside, (C8-C 30)alkenyl (poly)glucoside, which is optionally oxyalkylened (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and contains from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C8-C 30 ) alkyl (poly) glucoside esters;

[0233] - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils;

[0234] - condensation products of ethyleneoxy and / or propyleneoxy;

[0235] -N-(C8-C 30 ) alkyl glucosamine and N-(C8-C 30 ) acylmethylglucosamine derivatives;

[0236] -Amine oxides.

[0237] They are particularly selected from alcohols, α-diols and (C1-C 20 ) alkylphenols, these compounds are ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and have at least one fatty chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethyleneoxy or propyleneoxy groups can range, in particular, from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups can range, in particular, from 1 to 30.

[0238] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethyleneoxy and propyleneoxy groups with fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty amides (preferably having from 1 to 30 ethyleneoxy units), polyglycerolated fatty amides (containing on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups), fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C 24 (C10-C14 alkyl) glucosamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl) amine oxides or N-(C 10 -C 14 Acyl)aminopropylmorpholineoxide.

[0239] C8-C of sorbitan 30 And preferably C 12 -C 22 Fatty acid esters (particularly monoesters, diesters and triesters) may be selected from:

[0240] Sorbitan caprylate; Sorbitan cocoate; Sorbitan isostearate; Sorbitan laurate; Sorbitan oleate; Sorbitan palmitate; Sorbitan stearate; Sorbitan diisostearate; Sorbitan dioleate; Sorbitan distearate; Sorbitan sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan sesquiisostearate; Sorbitan sesquioleate; Sorbitan sesquistearate; Sorbitan triisostearate; Sorbitan trioleate; Sorbitan triisostearate.

[0241] C8-C 30 The esters (especially monoesters, diesters, triesters) of fatty acids with polyoxyethylened sorbitan are preferably selected from C8-C6 oxyethylened sorbitan having from 1 to 30 ethyleneoxy units, preferably from 2 to 20 ethyleneoxy units, still more preferably from 2 to 10 ethyleneoxy units. 30 Fatty acid esters.

[0242] Preferably, the C8-C 30 Fatty acid esters are selected from C 12 -C 18 The esters of fatty acids with oxyethylidene sorbitan are in particular chosen from the oxyethylidene esters of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid with sorbitan.

[0243] Preferably, the C8-C 30 The fatty acid ester is selected from oxyethylated (4EO) sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate-21), oxyethylated (20EO) sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate-20), oxyethylated (20EO) sorbitan monopalmitate (polysorbate-40), oxyethylated (20EO) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate-60), oxyethylated (4EO) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate-70), oxyethylated (20EO) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate-80), oxyethylated (20EO) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate-90), oxyethylated (20EO) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate-100), oxyethylated (20EO) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate-110), oxyethylated (20EO) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate-111), oxyethylated (20EO) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate-112), oxyethylated (20EO) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate-113), oxyethylated (20EO) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate-114), oxyethylated (20EO) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate-115), oxyethylated (20EO) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate-116), oxyethylated (20EO) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate-117), oxyethylated (20EO) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate-118), oxyethylated (20EO) Sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate-61), oxyethylidene (20EO) sorbitan monooleate (polysorbate-80), oxyethylidene (5EO) sorbitan monooleate (polysorbate-81), oxyethylidene (20EO) sorbitan tristearate (polysorbate-65), oxyethylidene (20EO) sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate-85).

[0244] The nonionic surfactant is preferably selected from ethoxylated C8-C60 surfactants containing from 1 to 200 ethyleneoxy groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy groups. 24 Fatty alcohol, (C6-C 24Alkyl) polyglycosides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acids with glycerol, C8-C 30 Esters of fatty acids with oxyethylidene sorbitan, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from ethoxylated C8-C6- 24 Fatty alcohol, (C6-C 24 Alkyl) polyglycosides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acids and glycerol.

[0245] More preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from ethoxylated C8-C8 ethyleneoxy groups containing from 1 to 200 ethyleneoxy groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy groups. 24 Fatty alcohol.

[0246] In the composition according to the invention, it is possible to use Cationic surfactants Typically selected from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0247] Fatty amines usually contain at least one C8-C 30 A hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and distearylamine.

[0248] As examples of quaternary ammonium salts, mention may in particular be made of:

[0249] - those corresponding to the following general formula (VI):

[0250]

[0251] Wherein the groups R8 to R 11 may be the same or different and represent a straight or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as an aryl group or an alkylaryl group. 11 At least one of contains from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic radical may contain heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

[0252] Aliphatic groups are selected from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C 30 Alkoxy, polyoxy (C2-C6) alkylene, C1-C 30 Alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22 )alkylamido (C2-C6)alkyl, (C 12 -C 22 ) alkyl acetate and C1-C 30 Hydroxyalkyl; X -is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates and (C1-C4)alkyl sulfonates or (C1-C4)alkyl aryl sulfonates.

[0253] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of the formula (VI), preference is given firstly to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium chloride or alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, in which the alkyl radical contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride or, secondarily, to distearylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or, finally, to palmitamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, commercialized by the company Van Dyk under the name 70 sales.

[0254] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, for example those of the following formula (VII):

[0255]

[0256] wherein R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as a tallow fatty acid derivative, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (C1-C4)alkyl sulfonates or (C1-C4)alkyl aryl sulfonates.

[0257] Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example a tallow fatty acid derivative, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such products are available, for example, from the company Rewo under the name W 75 for sale.

[0258] - quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of the following formula (VIII):

[0259]

[0260] wherein R16 denotes an alkyl group containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which alkyl group is optionally hydroxylated and / or is interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms; R17 is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21 are identical or different and are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.

[0261] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) sold by the company Finetex and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75) sold by the company Finetex.

[0262] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of the following formula (IX):

[0263]

[0264] Wherein: R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl; R23 is selected from: group -C(O)R26, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based group R27, or hydrogen atom; R25 is selected from: group -C(O)R28, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based group R29, or hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28 are the same or different and are selected from linear or branched, saturated or Unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based group; r, s and t are the same or different and are integers from 2 to 6, r1 and t1 are the same or different and are 0 or 1; r2+r1=2r and t1+t2=2t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z are the same or different and are integers from 0 to 10, X- is an organic or inorganic simple or complex anion, provided that the sum of x+y+z is from 1 to 15, when x is 0, R23 indicates R27 and when z is 0, R25 indicates R29.

[0265] The alkyl group R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

[0266] Preferably, R22 indicates a methyl group, an ethyl group, a hydroxyethyl group or a dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl group or an ethyl group.

[0267] Advantageously, the sum of x+y+z is from 1 to 10.

[0268] When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be longer and may have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be shorter and may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0269] When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0270] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0271] Preferably, x and z may be the same or different and equal to 0 or 1.

[0272] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0273] Preferably, r, s and t are identical or different, equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly equal to 2.

[0274] Anion X - Preferred are halides (preferably chloride, bromide or iodide), (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates or (C1-C4)alkyl sulfonates or (C1-C4)alkyl aryl sulfonates. However, methanesulfonates, phosphates, nitrates, toluenesulfonates, anions derived from organic acids (such as acetate or lactate), or any other anion compatible with ammonium carrying an ester function may be used.

[0275] The anion X- is even more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate.

[0276] In the composition according to the invention, ammonium salts of formula (XIII) are more particularly used in which: R22 indicates a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: a group -C(O)R26, a methyl, an ethyl or a group based on a C14-C22 hydrocarbon, or a hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: a group -C(O)R28, or a hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28 are identical or different and are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups based on C13-C17 hydrocarbons, and are preferably chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0277] Advantageously, these hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

[0278] Among the compounds of formula (XIII), salts, in particular chlorides or methylsulfates of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl methylammonium or monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof may be mentioned, for example. These acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from vegetable oils such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[0279] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine (which are optionally oxyalkylenated) with fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using alkylating agents such as alkyl halides (preferably methyl or ethyl halides), dialkyl sulfates (preferably dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl p-toluenesulfonate, chloroethylene glycol or chloroglycerol.

[0280] Such compounds are marketed, for example, by Henkel under the name Sold by Stepan Company under the name Sold by CECA under the name Sold or sold by Rewo-Witco under the name Sold by WE 18.

[0281] The compositions according to the invention may contain, for example, mixtures of quaternary ammonium monoesters, diesters and triester salts, the majority by weight being the diester salts.

[0282] It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function as described in patents US Pat. No. 4,874,554 and US Pat. No. 4,137,180.

[0283] It is also possible to use behenyl hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, such as is sold under the name Quartamin BTC 131 by Kao Corporation.

[0284] Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester function contains two ester functions.

[0285] Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0286] Preferably, the surfactant is selected from anionic surfactants and nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from anionic surfactants.

[0287] More preferably, the surfactant is selected from ethoxylated C8-C60-1, C80-1, C80-2, C80-3, C80-4, C80-5, C80-6, C80-7, C80-8, C80-9, C80-10, C80-11, C80-12, C80-13, C80-14, C80-15, C80-16, C80 24 Fatty alcohols, alkyl sulfates, salts of C12-C20 fatty acids, and mixtures thereof, are more preferably selected from alkyl sulfates, salts of C12-C20 fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0288] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more surfactants selected from alkyl sulfates. When the composition comprises one or more surfactants, the total content of surfactants in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0289] When the composition comprises one or more nonionic and / or anionic surfactants, the total content of nonionic and / or anionic surfactants in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0290] Thickening polymer

[0291] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more thickening polymers.

[0292] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more thickening polymers.

[0293] For the purposes of the present invention, a "thickening polymer" is understood to mean a polymer which, when introduced at 1% by weight into an aqueous solution or into an aqueous-alcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol and having a pH of 7, or into an oil chosen from liquid petrolatum, isopropyl myristate or cyclopentasiloxane, enables a viscosity of 1.5 % to 2.5 % at 25° C. and 1 s. -1 The viscosity of the composition is at least 100 cps (centipoise), in particular at least 200 cps, preferably at least 500 cps at a shear rate of 1.5 %. The viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer, etc.).

[0294] The thickening polymers according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. It is also possible to use mixtures of various thickening polymers. They may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric thickening polymers and mixtures thereof.

[0295] The thickening polymer may be selected from thickening acrylic polymers and thickening polysaccharides.

[0296] For purposes of the present invention, "acrylic polymer" means a polymer resulting from a polymerization reaction using one or more monomers of the following structure:

[0297]

[0298] wherein R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group,

[0299] and R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, an NR5R6 group, or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkoxy group, which is optionally substituted with one or more OH and / or quaternary ammonium groups;

[0300] R5 and R6 independently of each other represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally oxyalkylenated straight-chain or branched C1-C30 alkyl group, optionally containing a sulfonic acid group.

[0301] Preferably, R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group.

[0302] The acrylic thickening polymers that can be used in the present invention can be selected from:

[0303] (a) (Meth)acrylic acid associative polymers;

[0304] (b) a crosslinked homopolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and a crosslinked copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and a C1-C6 alkyl acrylate;

[0305] (c) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of the ester and / or amide type;

[0306] (d) ammonium acrylate homopolymers and copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide;

[0307] (e) (Meth)acrylamide (C1-C4) alkyl sulfonic acid homopolymers and copolymers;

[0308] (f) Crosslinked methacryloyloxy (C1-C4) alkyltri (C1-C4) alkylammonium homopolymers and copolymers.

[0309] According to the invention, "associative thickening polymer" means an amphiphilic thickening polymer comprising both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, in particular comprising at least one C8-C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.

[0310] The (meth)acrylic associative thickening polymers according to the invention may be nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric.

[0311] Preferably, the nonionic associative thickening polymer according to the invention is chosen from:

[0312] - copolymers of C1-C6-alkyl (meth)acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers containing at least one fatty chain, for example oxyethylidened (C8-C22)alkyl acrylates, such as the oxyethylidened methyl methacrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold under the name Antil 208 by the company Goldschmidt; and

[0313] - copolymers of hydrophilic (meth)acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as (C8-C22)alkyl (meth)acrylates, for example polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymers.

[0314] The anionic associative thickening polymers according to the invention may be chosen from those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of the (C10-C30)alkyl ester type, such as an unsaturated carboxylic acid.

[0315] They are preferably chosen from the following polymers, (i) in which the hydrophilic units of the unsaturated ethylenic carboxylic acid type correspond to monomers of the following formula (X):

[0316]

[0317] Where R 1 Indicating H, CH3 or C2H5, i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and (ii) wherein the hydrophobic unit, such as a (C10-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid, corresponds to a monomer of the following formula (XI):

[0318]

[0319] Where R 1 indicates H or CH3 or C2H5, preferably H or CH3; and R 2 Indicates C10-C30, preferably C12-C22 alkyl.

[0320] The (C10-C30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the present invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0321] An anionic associative thickening polymer according to the invention may more particularly denote a polymer formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:

[0322] (i) acrylic acid and one or more esters of the following formula (XII):

[0323]

[0324] Where R 1 Indicates H or CH3, R 2 indicates an alkyl group having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally a crosslinking agent, such as those composed of from 60 to 95% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by weight of a crosslinkable polymerizable monomer, or those composed of 96 to 98% by weight of acrylic acid, 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of a crosslinkable polymerizable monomer,

[0325] (ii) or essentially acrylic acid and lauryl methacrylate, such as the product formed from 66% by weight acrylic acid and 34% by weight lauryl methacrylate.

[0326] As crosslinking agents, mention may in particular be made of polyallyl ethers, such as, in particular, polyallylsucrose and polyallylpentaerythritol.

[0327] Among the above mentioned polymers, those which are most particularly preferred are those produced by Goodrich under the trade name Pemulen Pemulen Carbopol And even more preferably Pemulen Products sold by Lubrizol under the trade name Carbopol ETD 2020 The product sold under the name Coatex by Seppic Corporation (SEPC) Products for sale.

[0328] Among the anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising fatty chains, mention may also be made of copolymers comprising, among the monomers of the copolymer, α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids and esters of α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids and of oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols.

[0329] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as monomers esters of α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids and C1-C4 alcohols.

[0330] By way of example, mention may be made of Aculyn sold by Rohm and Haas. It is an oxyalkylened methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name: Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or Aculyn® sold by Rohm and Haas Company. It is an oxyalkylened methacrylic acid / ethyl methacrylate / behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), and Novethix L-10 sold by Lubrizol Corporation.

[0331] Mention may also be made, as anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising fatty chains, of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated alcohol dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate copolymers, in particular those sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by the company Amergo.

[0332] Mention may also be made, as anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising fatty chains, of those which comprise at least one acrylic acid monomer containing sulfonic acid groups in free or partially or completely neutralized form and which comprise at least one hydrophobic portion.

[0333] The hydrophobic moiety present in the polymer of the invention preferably comprises from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0334] Preferably, the sulfonic acid composition according to the invention is partially or completely neutralized with an inorganic base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base (such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine), a basic amino acid (such as arginine and lysine), and mixtures of these compounds.

[0335] The sulfonic acid amphiphilic polymers according to the invention generally have a number average molecular weight (Mn) ranging from 1000 to 20 000 000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 20 000 to 5 000 000 and preferably from 100 000 to 1 500 000 g / mol.

[0336] The sulfonic acid amphiphilic polymer according to the invention may or may not be cross-linked. Preferably a cross-linked amphiphilic polymer is selected.

[0337] When they are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyethylenically unsaturated compounds usually used for crosslinking polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization. Mention may be made, for example, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ether, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or allyl ethers or vinyl ethers of other polyfunctional alcohols, and also allyl esters of phosphoric acid and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0338] Methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) will more particularly be used. The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10 mol % and more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol % relative to the polymer.

[0339] Acrylic monomers containing sulfonic acid groups are chosen in particular from (meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids and N-(C1-C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for example undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid and also partially or completely neutralized forms thereof.

[0340] More preferably, use is made of (meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for example acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid and also partially or completely neutralized forms thereof.

[0341] Use is made more particularly of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and also its partially or completely neutralized forms.

[0342] The amphiphilic polymers according to the invention may be chosen in particular from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with C6-C22 n-mono- or di-n-alkylamines, and as described in patent application WO 00 / 31154, forming an integral part of the content of the description. These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from (meth)acrylic acid, its β-substituted alkyl derivatives or esters thereof with monohydric alcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0343] Preferred polymers of the present invention are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer, the copolymers comprising at least one hydrophobic portion having from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably still from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0344] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acid, its β-substituted alkyl derivatives or its esters obtained with monohydric alcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0345] The ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomers of these specific copolymers are preferably selected from acrylates or acrylamides of the following formula (XIII):

[0346]

[0347] wherein R1 and R3 are the same or different, indicate a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group (preferably a methyl group); Y indicates O or NH; R2 indicates a hydrocarbon-based group containing at least from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, even better from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x indicates the number of moles of alkylene oxide and ranges from 0 to 100.

[0348] The radical R2 is preferably selected from a linear C6-C18 alkyl group (e.g., n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl and n-dodecyl) and a branched or cyclic C6-C18 alkyl group (e.g., cyclododecane (C12) or adamantane (C10)); a C6-C18 perfluoroalkyl group (e.g., a group of the formula -(CH2)2-(CF2)9-CF3); a cholesterol group (C27) or a cholesterol ester residue, such as a cholesterol oxyhexanoate group; an aromatic polycyclic group, such as naphthalene or pyrene. Among these groups, a linear alkyl group is more particularly preferred and a n-dodecyl group is more particularly preferred.

[0349] According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the monomer of formula (XIII) contains at least one alkylene oxide unit (x ≥ 1) and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain. The polyoxyalkylene chain is preferably composed of ethyleneoxy units and / or propyleneoxy units and even more particularly of ethyleneoxy units. The number of oxyalkylened units generally varies from 3 to 100, preferably from 3 to 50 and even more preferably from 7 to 25.

[0350] Among these polymers, mention may be made of:

[0351] - crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or unneutralized copolymers comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of

[0352] (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylamide or (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylate units, such as those described in application EP-A 750 899;

[0353] - a terpolymer comprising from 10 mol % to 90 mol % of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol % to 10 mol % of AMPS units and from 5 mol % to 80 mol % of

[0354] n-(C6-C18)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US Pat. No. 5,089,578.

[0355] Mention may also be made of completely neutralized copolymers of AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, and also crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the abovementioned Morishima article.

[0356] Mention will be made more particularly of the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) unit of the following formula (XIV):

[0357]

[0358] wherein X+ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or an ammonium ion;

[0359] and a copolymer composed of units of the following formula (XV):

[0360]

[0361] wherein x indicates an integer varying from 3 to 100, preferably from 5 to 80, and preferably from 7 to 25; R1 has the same meaning as indicated above in formula (IV), and R4 indicates a linear or branched C6-C22, and preferably C10-C22 alkyl group.

[0362] Particularly preferred polymers are those in which x=25, R1 denotes methyl and R4 represents n-dodecyl; polymers in which X+ denotes sodium or ammonium are very particularly preferred.

[0363] The cationic associative thickening polymers according to the invention may be chosen from polyacrylates containing amine side groups.

[0364] Polyacrylates containing quaternized or non-quaternized amine side groups contain hydrophobic groups of the type, for example, steareth-20 (stearyl alcohol containing 20 mol of ethylene oxide) or (C10-C30) alkyl PEG-20 itaconate.

[0365] As examples of polyacrylates containing amine side chains, mention may be made of the polymers 8781-124B or 9492-103 or Structure Plus from National Starch.

[0366] The amphoteric associative thickening polymer according to the invention may be chosen from methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid / C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate copolymers, the alkyl group preferably being stearyl.

[0367] (b) Among the crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Goodrich or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3VSA.

[0368] Among the crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C1-C6 alkyl acrylates, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Viscoatex 538C by the company Coatex, which is a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate, as an aqueous dispersion containing 38% of active substances, or the product sold under the name Aculyn 33 by the company Rohm and Haas, which is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate, as an aqueous dispersion containing 28% of active substances. Mention may more particularly be made of the crosslinked methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymer manufactured and sold under the name Carbopol Aqua SF-1 by the company Noveon, in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion.

[0369] (c) Among the nonionic homopolymers or copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of the ester and / or amide type, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Cyanamer P250 by Cytec (polyacrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C (methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer) by US Cosmetics; Acryloid B66 (butyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer) by Rohm and Haas; and BPA 500 (polymethyl methacrylate) by Kobo.

[0370] (d) Among the ammonium acrylate homopolymers, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by Hoechst.

[0371] Among the copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Bozepol CNouveau or the product sold under the name PAS 5193 by the company Hoechst.

[0372] (e) (meth)acrylamido(C1-C4)alkylsulfonic acid homopolymers or copolymers are preferably crosslinked. More particularly, they are partially or completely neutralized. These are water-soluble or water-swellable polymers.

[0373] Among these polymers, mention may especially be made of:

[0374] - Polyacrylamide methanesulfonic acid,

[0375] - Polyacrylamide ethanesulfonic acid,

[0376] - Polyacrylamide propanesulfonic acid,

[0377] - poly-(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid),

[0378] - poly-(2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid),

[0379] -Poly-(2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid).

[0380] Polymers of this type, and in particular crosslinked and partially or completely neutralized poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid), are known and are described and prepared in patent application DE-19625 810.

[0381] They are usually characterized by the fact that they contain randomly distributed units of:

[0382] - from 90 to 99.9% by weight of units of formula (A):

[0383]

[0384] wherein X+ indicates a cation or a mixture of cations, including H+, and

[0385] - from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one crosslinking unit having at least two olefinic double bonds, the weight proportion being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.

[0386] Preferably, the crosslinked and neutralized poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) comprises from 98 to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (A) and from 0.5 to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.

[0387] Preferably, X+ represents a cation or a mixture of cations, in particular selected from a proton, an alkali metal cation, a cation equivalent to an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium ion.

[0388] Preferably, the crosslinking unit having at least two olefinic double bonds is selected from dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ether, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetraallyloxyethane or other polyfunctional alcohol allyl or vinyl ethers, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, methylenebisacrylamide or divinylbenzene.

[0389] The crosslinking units having at least two olefinic double bonds are more particularly chosen from those of the following general formula (B):

[0390]

[0391] Here R1 indicates a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and more particularly a methyl group (trimethylolpropane triacrylate).

[0392] Crosslinked and partially or fully neutralized poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) is generally known under the name “ammonium polyacryloyl-2-methylpropanesulfonate” or else “ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate” (INCI name).

[0393] A particularly preferred product according to the invention is the product sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS; this is a crosslinked poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) partially neutralized with aqueous ammonia.

[0394] (f) Among the crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium, mention may be made of the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride or copolymerization of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an ethylenically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Mention may be made more particularly of crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers (in particular 20 / 80 by weight), in particular in the form of dispersions containing 50% by weight of said copolymers in mineral oil. This dispersion is especially marketed by Ciba under the name SC 92. Mention may also be made of crosslinked homopolymers of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, in particular in the form of dispersions containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in liquid esters. These dispersions are marketed by the company Ciba under the name SC 95 and Sold as SC 96. Such polymers have the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.

[0395] Among the acrylic thickening polymers that can be used in the present invention, preference will be given to using one or more acrylic thickening polymers of family a), more preferably chosen from anionic (meth)acrylic associative thickening polymers.

[0396] As indicated above, the thickening polymer according to the invention may be chosen from thickening polysaccharides.

[0397] The thickening polysaccharides according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. They may be nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric.

[0398] The basic unit of the polysaccharide of the present invention may be a monosaccharide or a disaccharide. The units that may be included in the composition of the polysaccharide of the present invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, fructose, anhydrogalactose.

[0399] As thickening polysaccharides that can be used, mention may in particular be made of the following polymers, and also their derivatives:

[0400] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose),

[0401] - Locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose),

[0402] - Fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose),

[0403] -Tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose),

[0404] - Konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose),

[0405] - Scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer),

[0406] - cellulose (glucose polymer),

[0407] - Starch (glucose polymer);

[0408] - Inulin (polymer of fructose and glucose).

[0409] These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. As physical treatment, mention may be made in particular of temperature. As chemical treatment, mention may be made of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to obtain polymers that may be nonionic, cationic or amphoteric.

[0410] The nonionic guar gum that can be used according to the present invention can be modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl. Among the hydroxyalkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl can be mentioned. These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, in the following manner: the corresponding alkylene oxide, for example propylene oxide, is reacted with the guar gum to obtain the guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl. The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum. Such nonionic guar gums that are optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl are sold, for example, by Rhodia Chimie under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120.

[0411] A guar gum modified with a cationic group that can be used more particularly according to the present invention is a guar gum comprising a trialkylammonium cationic group. Preferably, 2% to 30% of the hydroxyl functional groups of these guar gums by number carry a cationic trialkylammonium group. Even more preferably, 5% to 20% of the hydroxyl functional groups of these guar gums by number are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups can be mentioned most particularly. Even more preferably, these groups account for 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the present invention, a guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride can be used. These guar gums modified with cationic groups are products that are already known per se and are described, for example, in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 0131 307. Such products are sold in particular by Rhodia Chemicals under the trade names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15 and Jaguar C 17.

[0412] As modified locust bean gum, use may be made of a cationic locust bean gum containing hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups, such as Catinal CLB 200 sold by Toho.

[0413] The starch molecules used in the present invention may be derived from any plant starch source, in particular cereals and tubers; more particularly, they may be starch from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, peas, oats or cassava. It is also possible to use the starch hydrolysates mentioned above or other starch derivatives. The starch is preferably derived from potato. The starch may be chemically or physically modified, in particular, by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatment.

[0414] More specifically, these reactions can be carried out as follows:

[0415] - pregelatinization by splitting the starch granules (e.g. drying and cooking in a drying drum);

[0416] - oxidation with strong oxidizing agents, resulting in the introduction of carboxyl groups into the starch molecules and resulting in their depolymerization (for example by treating an aqueous starch solution with sodium hypochlorite);

[0417] - crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules, which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups);

[0418] - Esterification in alkaline medium for grafting functional groups, in particular C1-C6 acyl (acetyl), C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl (hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl or octenylsuccinic acid.

[0419] Among the starch derivatives, mention may in particular be made of dextrins.

[0420] According to the present invention, amphoteric starch can also be used, which comprises one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic group and the cationic group can be bound to the same reaction site or different reaction sites of the starch molecule; they are preferably bound to the same reaction site. The anionic group can be a carboxylate, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably a carboxylate type. The cationic group can be a primary amine, a secondary amine, a tertiary amine or a quaternary amine type.

[0421] Amphoteric starches are especially chosen from compounds of the following formula:

[0422]

[0423] in:

[0424] St-O represents starch molecules,

[0425] R is the same or different and represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[0426] R' is the same or different and represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or a -COOH group;

[0427] n is an integer equal to 2 or 3,

[0428] M is the same or different and indicates a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal such as Na, K, Li or NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine,

[0429] R" represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C18 alkyl group.

[0430] In particular, starch of formula (IIa) or (IIIa) is used; and preferably starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid, ie starch of formula (IIa) or (IIIa), in which R, R', R" and M represent hydrogen atoms and n is equal to 2. A preferred amphoteric starch is starch chloroethylamidodipropionate.

[0431] Cellulose and cellulose derivatives may be cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Among these derivatives, mention may be made of cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers.

[0432] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses, such as methylcellulose and ethylcellulose (for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose (for example Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcellulose (for example Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed hydroxyalkylalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcellulose.

[0433] Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose. The quaternizing agent may in particular be diallyldimethylammonium chloride (for example Celquat L200 from National Starch). Another cationic cellulose ether that may be mentioned is hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose (for example Ucare Polymer JR 400 from Amergo).

[0434] The thickening polysaccharide may be of the associative type. Mention may be made in particular of cellulose or derivatives thereof modified with a group containing at least one fatty chain, such as an alkyl, aralkyl or alkylaryl group or mixtures thereof, in which the alkyl group is a C8-C22 group; nonionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses, such as the products Natrosol Plus Grade 330CS and Polysurf 67 (C16 alkyl) sold by Aqualon; quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses (cationic), such as the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) sold by Amergo, the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C18 alkyl) sold by Croda, and the product Softcat SL sold by Amergo 100; nonionic nonoxyhydroxyethylcellulose, such as the product Amercell HM-1500 sold by Amercell; or nonionic alkylcellulose, such as the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by Berol Nobel.

[0435] As associative thickening polysaccharides derived from guar gum, mention may be made of hydroxypropyl guar modified with fatty chains, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 sold by Lamberti (modified with a C22 alkyl chain); the product Miracare XC 95-3 (modified with a C14 alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified with a C20 alkyl chain) sold by Rhodia Chimie.

[0436] Among the thickening polysaccharides, use will preferably be made of nonionic polysaccharides, in particular chosen from cellulose and its derivatives, preferably from nonionic cellulose ethers.

[0437] Preferably, the thickening polymers according to the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: nonionic polysaccharides, in particular from cellulose and its derivatives, and anionic (meth)acrylic associative thickening polymers.

[0438] When the composition comprises one or more thickening polymers, the total content of thickening polymers preferably varies from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, indeed even from 0.3% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0439] Chelating agents

[0440] The compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more chelating (or complexing) agents.

[0441] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise one or more chelating agents.

[0442] The definition of "chelating agent" (or "complexing agent") is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds that is capable of forming a complex with a metal ion. A complex is an inorganic complex in which a compound (chelating agent or complexing agent) coordinates to a metal ion, i.e., it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (forming a ring that contains the metal ion).

[0443] Chelating agents (or complexing agents) generally contain at least two electron-donating atoms that are capable of forming bonds with metal ions.

[0444] In the context of the present invention, the chelating agent may be selected from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts, and derivatives thereof.

[0445] These salts are especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts and substituted ammonium salts.

[0446] As examples of chelating agents based on carboxylic acids, the following compounds may be mentioned: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate (such as Octaquest E30 from the company Octel), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts (such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA), ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(o-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryliminodiacetic acid (such as described in document EP-A-317). 542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N-carboxymethyl-N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102), β-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509 382), ethanol diglycine, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid (such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM), N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and its salts (such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA), such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel).

[0447] As examples of complexing agents based on monophosphonic acids or polyphosphonic acids, the following compounds may be mentioned: diethylenetriamine-penta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as etidronic acid disodium, etidronic acid tetrasodium.

[0448] As examples of complexing agents based on polyphosphoric acid, the following compounds may be mentioned: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.

[0449] According to one embodiment, useful chelating agents according to the present invention are phosphorus-based chelating agents, ie chelating agents comprising one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.

[0450] The phosphorus-based chelating agents used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from:

[0451] - inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, which are preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal (preferably alkali metal) phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline earth metal (preferably alkali metal) polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;

[0452] - Organic phosphorus-based derivatives, for example organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and / or its alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, and mixtures thereof.

[0453] Preferably, the phosphorus-based chelating agent is selected from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms covalently bonded together via at least one linking group L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.

[0454] Phosphorus-based chelating agents can be selected from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, which preferably contain at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferably, phosphorus-based chelating agents are selected from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, and better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).

[0455] Phosphorus-based chelating agents may be selected from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, which preferably contain at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-based chelating agents are selected from etidronic acid (also known as 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid) and / or its alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, preferably alkali metal salts, such as tetrasodium etidronic acid and disodium etidronic acid.

[0456] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-based chelating agent is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or its alkali metal salts, and mixtures of these compounds.

[0457] Particularly preferably, the phosphorus-based chelating agent is selected from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and mixtures of these compounds.

[0458] According to the present invention, the chelating agent is preferably selected from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (DTPA) and its salts (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.

[0459] Among the salts of these compounds, alkali metal salts and particularly sodium or potassium salts are preferred.

[0460] When the composition comprises one or more chelating agents, the total content of chelating agents preferably ranges from 0.001% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0461] Alkali

[0462] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more inorganic, organic or hybrid alkaline agents.

[0463] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkaline agents.

[0464] These alkaline agents are different from the above-mentioned amino acid type compounds.

[0465] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkaline agent" and "alkalinizing agent" are used indiscriminately.

[0466] The inorganic alkalizing agent is preferably selected from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (bi)carbonate and potassium (bi)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphate or potassium phosphate, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.

[0467] The organic alkalizing agent is preferably selected from alkanolamines, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenediamine and / or oxypropylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine or spermidine, and mixtures thereof.

[0468] "Alkanolamine" means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl groups.

[0469] Organic amines selected from alkanolamines containing one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines, are particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention.

[0470] In particular, the alkanolamine is selected from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane and mixtures thereof.

[0471] Organic amines can also be selected from heterocyclic organic amines. Histidine, pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole or benzimidazole can be mentioned in particular. Organic amines can also be selected from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that can be used in the present invention, carnosine, anserine and balenine can be mentioned in particular. Organic amines can also be selected from compounds containing guanidine functional groups. In addition to arginine, as amines of this type that can be used in the present invention, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, guanidinoacetic acid, metformin, agmatine, n-amidoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid can be mentioned in particular.

[0472] As hybrid compounds, in particular guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used.

[0473] The alkali agent that can be used according to the present invention is preferably selected from alkanolamines, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia water, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (bi) carbonate and potassium (bi) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium silicate and sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium silicate and sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.

[0474] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention does not contain ammonia.

[0475] When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkaline agents, the composition comprises the one or more alkaline agents in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, better still from 5% to 35% by weight, even better still from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0476] According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one (meta)silicate. According to this embodiment, the total content of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicate or metasilicate, preferably sodium metasilicate, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, better still from 5% to 35% by weight, even better still from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0477] Solvents

[0478] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.

[0479] As examples of organic solvents, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched C2 to C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers, such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0480] When the composition comprises one or more organic solvents, the total content of organic solvents preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0481] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. "Anhydrous composition" means a composition that does not contain any water or contains only very little water, in particular less than 0.5% of water, better still less than 0.1%, even better still less than 0.05%, indeed even less than 0.01% of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention does not contain any water added during its preparation, the water that may be present being provided by the starting materials used to prepare the composition.

[0482] additive

[0483] The compositions according to the invention may optionally contain one or more additives different from the compounds according to the invention and among them there may be mentioned anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, cationic polymers other than thickening polymers or mixtures thereof, inorganic thickeners, antidandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and / or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins (including panthenol), sunscreens, inorganic or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, perfumes, and preservatives.

[0484] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional further compounds such that the advantageous properties inherently associated with the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

[0485] Each of the above additives may generally be present in an amount between 0% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0486] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention does not contain hydrogen peroxide.

[0487] "Hydrogen peroxide-free" means that the composition according to the invention contains no (0%) hydrogen peroxide.

[0488] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain chemical oxidizing agents other than the above-mentioned peroxygenated salts.

[0489] The composition according to the invention is preferably intended to be mixed with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide.

[0490] The composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of a cream before being mixed with the composition comprising hydrogen peroxide.

[0491] Preferably, before being mixed with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, the composition according to the invention has a relative humidity of 1 s at 25°C. -1 A viscosity of greater than or equal to 100 poise (100 Pa.s), preferably greater than or equal to 130 poise (130 Pa.s), and more preferably between 130 and 250 poise (130 and 250 Pa.s), measured at a shear rate of 100 Pa.s; this viscosity can be obtained by means of a plate-plate geometry, The measurements were made using a Thermo Haake RS600 rotational rheometer with a 1 mm gap.

[0492] method

[0493] The invention also relates to a method for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, in particular the hair.

[0494] The method according to the present invention comprises:

[0495] (i) a step of mixing a composition A according to the invention as described above with a composition B comprising hydrogen peroxide,

[0496] (ii) A step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i).

[0497] The composition resulting from the mixture of step (i) is referred to as a ready-to-use composition.

[0498] Such a ready-to-use composition may comprise one or more of those ingredients mentioned above. Such a ready-to-use composition may also comprise water, in particular from a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide.

[0499] Preferably, the ready-to-use composition is also in the form of a cream.

[0500] Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition ranges from 8 to 13, preferably from 9 to 12.

[0501] The ready-to-use composition can be applied to the keratin fibers wet or dry.After the treatment, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water and then dried or left to dry.

[0502] This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the resulting mixed composition to the hair.

[0503] Preferably, compositions A and B are mixed in an A / B weight ratio ranging from 0.1 to 2, preferably from 0.3 to 1.5 and better still from 0.5 to 1.

[0504] Preferably, composition B comprises hydrogen peroxide in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B, more particularly from 0.5% to 20% and even more preferably from 1% to 15%.

[0505] Composition B is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water and more advantageously still more than 50% by weight of water.

[0506] It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those previously listed; these solvents, when they are present, more particularly represent from 0.1% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.3% to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.

[0507] Composition B also preferably comprises one or more acidulants. Among the acidulants, mention may be made, by way of example, of inorganic or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulphuric acid, carboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulphonic acids.

[0508] Composition B preferably comprises one or more fatty substances, such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0509] Composition B may also comprise surfactants and thickening polymers.

[0510] The pH of composition B (if it is aqueous) is generally less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5 and preferably between 1.5 and 4.5.

[0511] Reagent test kit

[0512] Another subject of the invention is a device with at least two compartments for lightening keratin fibers, comprising at least one first compartment containing a composition A as described above, and at least one second compartment containing a composition B comprising hydrogen peroxide as described above.

[0513] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by identical or different suitable application tools, such as a fine brush, a coarse brush or a sponge.

[0514] The above-mentioned device may also be equipped with means for distributing the desired mixture on the hair, such as the device described in patent FR 2 586 913.

[0515] Finally, the invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as described above for lightening keratin fibres, and in particular the hair.

[0516] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention but are not limiting in nature.

[0517] Examples

[0518] In the following examples, all amounts are shown as percentages by weight of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise indicated).

[0519] Compositions A1, A2 and A3

[0520] Composition A1 according to the invention and comparative compositions A2 and A3 were prepared using the following ingredients, the contents of which are indicated in the table below:

[0521] [Table 1]

[0522]

[0523] Composition B

[0524] Composition B was prepared from the following ingredients, the amounts of which are indicated in the table below:

[0525] [Table 2]

[0526]

[0527] When used, compositions A1 to A3 are mixed with composition B in a weight ratio of 1+1.5, respectively, to obtain mixtures M1 to M3.

[0528] Composition A1 was a homogeneous cream which was mixed very quickly with composition B to give mixture M1 in the form of a homogeneous cream.

[0529] Composition A2 is a gritty powder and the time taken to mix composition A2 with composition B is too long. Furthermore, the mixture M2 obtained is more fluid than mixture M1 and is susceptible to the risk of flowing when applied to the head.

[0530] First Example

[0531] Each of the mixtures M1 and M2 was then applied to natural chestnut brown hair tresses (tone depth 4) in an amount of 10 g of mixture per 1 g of hair tress.

[0532] Mixture M1 was easier to apply than mixture M2.

[0533] After a leave-on time of 50 minutes at 33°C, the tresses are rinsed, then washed and dried in an oven at 60°C.

[0534] Mixture M1 does not dry up on the locks during the residence time.

[0535] Colorimetric measurement

[0536] The lightening of the hair was evaluated in the L*a*b* system using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter in the CIELab system (illuminant D65, angle 10°, including specular reflection component).

[0537] In this system, L * Indicates brightness, a * represents the green / red axis and b * Indicates the blue / yellow axis.

[0538] The level of lightening is represented by the color difference ΔE between the natural hair lock before treatment and the lightened hair lock, ΔE being obtained by the following formula:

[0539]

[0540] Wherein L* represents intensity, and a* and b* represent chromaticity of natural hair, and L0* represents intensity, and a0* and b0* represent chromaticity of lightened hair.

[0541] The greater the value of ΔE, the more the hair is lightened.

[0542] result

[0543] [Table 3]

[0544] L a b ΔE Control before treatment 19.15 2.06 2.44 - M1 60.73 10.53 33.2 52.41 M2 50.16 12.17 29.91 42.64

[0545] Mixture M1 resulted in better hair lightening compared to mixture M2.

[0546] The mixture M1 was also applied to very curly and extremely curly hair. The application qualities were very good, especially in terms of distribution over the whole hair, especially the preservation of the curls and good shaping after the treatment. Very good lightening properties and very good cosmetic properties were obtained. The treated hair was easily detangled, soft and shiny, even after three weeks.

[0547] Second Example

[0548] Each of the mixtures M1 and M3 was then applied to natural chestnut brown hair tresses (tone depth 4) in an amount of 10 g of mixture per 1 g of hair tress.

[0549] After a leave-on time of 50 minutes at 33°C, the tresses are rinsed, then washed and dried in an oven at 60°C.

[0550] As in the previous examples, the lightening of the hair was evaluated in the L*a*b* system using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter in the CIELab system (illuminant D65, angle 10°, including specular reflection component).

[0551] The results are as follows:

[0552] [Table 4]

[0553] L a b ΔE Control before treatment 21.39 2.72 2.94 - M1 52.79 11.93 31.06 43.15 M3 46.06 11.8 26.93 35.59

[0554] Compared to mixture M3, mixture M1 according to the invention leads to better lightening of the hair.

Claims

1. A composition comprising: - one or more peroxide salts; - one or more fatty substances, the total content of which is greater than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - one or more amino acid type compounds; - citric acid and / or its salts; The composition does not contain hydrogen peroxide.

2. A composition according to the preceding claim, wherein The peroxide salt is selected from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof; even more preferably selected from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof; even better selected from potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof.

3. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The total content of peroxygenated salts ranges from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 5% to 55% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, even more preferably from 20% to 45% by weight and better still from 30% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The fatty substance is selected from the group consisting of liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising at least one liquid fatty substance, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular liquid vaseline, liquid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, better still from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular liquid vaseline.

6. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising at least one solid fatty substance, preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The total content of fatty substances ranges from 10.5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 12% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 40% by weight, better still from 20% to 35% by weight and even better still from 25% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The amino acid compound is selected from the group consisting of compounds of formula (I), salts thereof and mixtures thereof: In formula (I): ■p is an integer equal to 1 or 2; ■ When p=1, R and the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring may be optionally substituted by at least one group selected from hydroxyl or (C1-C4) alkyl; ■When p=2, R means: - a hydrogen atom; or -(C1-C12)alkyl, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, which is interrupted by at least one heteroatom or group selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or substituted by at least one group selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

9. A composition according to the preceding claim, wherein The amino acid compound is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from glycine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof; even more preferably, the amino acid is glycine.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the amino acid-type compound in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, still more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and still better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein The total content of citric acid and / or its salts ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising an alkaline agent, preferably selected from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (bi) carbonate and potassium (bi) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphate or potassium phosphate, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.

13. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The total content of the alkaline agent ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, better still from 5% to 35% by weight and even better still from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising one or more thickening polymers, preferably chosen from nonionic polysaccharides, in particular from cellulose and its derivatives, anionic (meth)acrylic associative thickening polymers, and mixtures thereof.

15. A method for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising (i) a step of mixing a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, (ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers the composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i).

16. A device for lightening keratin fibers having at least two compartments, said device comprising at least one first compartment containing a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, and at least one second compartment containing a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide.

17. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 for lightening keratin fibres and in particular the hair.

Citation Information

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