Hair conditioning composition
By using aqueous emulsions of conditioning gel phase and non-linear organopolysiloxane in the hair care composition, the problem of difficult delivery of silicone deposited to damaged parts of the hair is solved in the prior art, achieving better hair lubricating and shining effects.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202411925430.4
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2019-04-26
- Filing Date
- 2020-04-15
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-11
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair care compositions are difficult to effectively deliver enhanced silicone deposits onto damaged parts of the hair, resulting in dry, rough and matte hair.
Using a hair care composition containing an aqueous emulsion of conditioning gel phase and a non-linear organopolysiloxane, the conditioning gel phase is formed from a cationic surfactant, a high melting point fatty compound and an aqueous carrier, the aqueous emulsion containing an aqueous continuous phase of water and a cationic surfactant or a blend of non-ionic and cationic surfactant and a dispersed phase of a non-linear organopolysiloxane and a hydrocarbon oil.
The delivery of enhanced silicone deposits to damaged parts of the hair is achieved, improving the lubrication, smoothness, softness and shiny of the hair, significantly improving the conditioning effect of damaged hair.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] This case is a divisional application of the patent application with application number 202080031163.X and title “Hair Conditioning Composition” filed by the present applicant on April 15, 2020. The entire contents of the parent case are incorporated into this divisional application by reference. Technical Field
[0002] The present invention relates to hair care compositions containing non-linear organopolysiloxane "oil-in-water" emulsions. Background Art
[0003] Shampooing cleanses the hair by removing excess dirt and sebum. However, shampooing leaves the hair in a damp, tangled and generally unmanageable condition. Once the hair dries, it will often be in a dry, rough, dull or frizzy condition due to the removal of the hair's natural oils and other natural conditioning and moisturizing components. If the hair or a portion of the hair is damaged, shampooing will undoubtedly leave the hair in a worse condition than normal hair after shampooing. A variety of methods have been developed to condition the hair. A common method of providing conditioning benefits to the hair is through the use of conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, high melting point fatty compounds, low melting point oils, silicone compounds and mixtures thereof. Silicones are well known and are one of the preferred conditioning agents.
[0004] Despite the prior art, opportunities exist to increase the benefits provided by conditioning hair care compositions. There is a particular need for hair care compositions that are capable of delivering enhanced silicone deposition, especially to damaged portions of the hair.
[0005] WO 2016 / 041748 discloses a hair care composition which can be obtained by blending a conditioning gel phase with an aqueous polydimethylsiloxane polymer emulsion; the conditioning gel phase is formed by a cationic surfactant, a high melting point (25°C or higher) fatty compound and an aqueous carrier; and the aqueous polydimethylsiloxane polymer emulsion has an aqueous continuous phase consisting of water and a blend of nonionic and cationic surfactants and a dispersed phase consisting of a polydimethylsiloxane polymer and a hydrocarbon oil, wherein the polydimethylsiloxane polymer has a dynamic viscosity of 50,000 to 110,000 cP at 25°C, and the hydrocarbon oil has a dynamic viscosity of 1 to 35 cSt at 40°C and a specific gravity of 0.76 to 0.87 at 25°C, and the weight ratio of the polydimethylsiloxane polymer to the hydrocarbon oil is 45:55 to 70:30.
[0006] It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a hair care composition which delivers enhanced silicone deposition to the hair.
[0007] It is another object of the present invention to provide a hair care composition that can deliver enhanced silicone deposition to damaged hair.
[0008] Surprisingly, it has been found that the above objects can be achieved by a hair care composition comprising a conditioning gel phase and an aqueous emulsion of a non-linear organopolysiloxane, the non-linear organopolysiloxane comprising an aqueous continuous phase of water and a cationic surfactant or a blend of nonionic and cationic surfactants and a dispersed phase of the non-linear organopolysiloxane and a hydrocarbon oil, and an aqueous emulsion having a particle size of less than 12 microns Dv(50). Summary of the invention
[0009] Thus, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a hair care composition comprising a conditioning gel phase and an aqueous emulsion of a branched organopolysiloxane comprising silsesquioxane monomer units having the formula
[0010] (RSiO 3 / 2 ) n Where n = 1,
[0011] R is an alkyl group, preferably a methyl group, an ethyl group or a propyl group,
[0012] and copolymer segments of polydialkylsiloxane; the conditioning gel phase is formed by a cationic surfactant, a high melting point (25°C or higher) fatty compound and an aqueous carrier; and the aqueous emulsion of the branched organopolysiloxane comprises an aqueous continuous phase of water and a cationic surfactant or a blend of nonionic and cationic surfactants and a dispersed phase of the branched organopolysiloxane and a hydrocarbon oil, wherein the aqueous emulsion has a particle size of 5 to less than 12 microns Dv(50).
[0013] In a second aspect, the present invention provides the use of a composition according to the invention for enhanced silicone deposition on damaged hair.
[0014] By reading the following detailed description and the appended claims, these and other aspects, features and advantages will become apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art. For the avoidance of doubt, any feature of one aspect of the present invention may be used for any other aspect of the present invention. The term "comprising" is intended to mean "including", but does not necessarily mean "consisting of" or "composed of". In other words, the steps or options listed do not have to be exhaustive. It should be noted that the examples given in the following description are intended to illustrate the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention to these examples themselves. Similarly, unless otherwise indicated, all percentages are weight / weight percentages. Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers indicating the amount of material or reaction conditions, the physical properties of the material and / or the use in this specification should be understood to be modified by the word "about". Numerical ranges expressed in the format of "x to y" are understood to include x and y. When multiple preferred ranges are described in the format of "x to y" for a particular feature, it should be understood that all ranges combining different endpoints are also considered. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0015] Conditioning gel phase
[0016] Examples of suitable cationic surfactants that can be used to form the conditioning gel phase include quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants corresponding to the following general formula:
[0017] [N(R 1 )(R 2 )(R 3 )(R 4 )] + (X) -
[0018] Where R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 Each is independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halide (e.g., chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulfate and alkyl sulfate groups.
[0019] In addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, aliphatic groups may also contain ether linkages and other groups such as amino groups. Longer chain aliphatic groups, such as aliphatic groups of about 12 or more carbon atoms, may be saturated or unsaturated.
[0020] Specific examples of the quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants of the above general formula are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyldimethylammonium chloride, behenyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, coconut trimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2 oleyl ammonium chloride, and salts of these substances, wherein the chloride is replaced by other halides (e.g., bromides), acetates, citrates, lactates, glycolates, phosphates, nitrates, sulfates, or alkyl sulfates.
[0021] In one preferred class of cationic surfactants of the above general formula, R 1 is a C16 to C22 saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated alkyl chain, and R 2 , R 3 and R 4 Each is independently selected from CH3 and CH2CH2OH, preferably CH3.
[0022] Specific examples of such preferred quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants for use in forming the conditioning gel phase are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC), behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), and mixtures thereof.
[0023] Alternatively, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines may be used in combination with an acid to provide a cationic surfactant suitable for providing a conditioning gel phase for use in the present invention. The acid protonates the amine and forms an amine salt in situ in the hair care composition. Thus, the amine is effectively a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudo-quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.
[0024] Such suitable fatty amines include amidoamines having the general formula:
[0025] R 1 -C(O)–N(H)-R 2 -N(R 3 )(R 4 )
[0026] Where R 1 It is a fatty acid chain containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms. 2 is an alkylene group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R 3 and R 4 Each is independently an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0027] Specific examples of suitable materials of the above general formula are stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl dimethylamine and diethylaminoethylstearamide.
[0028] Also useful are dimethyl stearylamine, dimethyl soyamine, soyamine, myristic amine, tridecylamine, ethyl stearylamine, N-tallow propane diamine, ethoxylated (containing 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethyl stearylamine and arachidyl behenylamine. Particularly preferred is stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0029] The acid used may be any organic or inorganic acid capable of protonating the amines in the hair care composition. Suitable acids include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0030] Mixtures of any of the above cationic surfactants may also be suitable.
[0031] Suitable levels of cationic surfactant range from 0.1 to 10 wt%, preferably 0.2 to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.25 to 4 wt% (based on the total weight of cationic surfactants based on the total weight of the hair care composition).
[0032] "High melting point" in the context of the present invention generally refers to a melting point of 25°C or higher. Typically, the melting point ranges from 25°C to 90°C, preferably from 40°C to 70°C, more preferably from 50°C to about 65°C.
[0033] The high melting point fatty compound may be used as a single compound or as a blend or mixture of at least two high melting point fatty compounds. When a blend or mixture of fatty compounds is used, the melting point refers to the melting point of the blend or mixture.
[0034] Suitable fatty compounds of this type have the general formula RX, wherein R is an aliphatic carbon chain and X is a functional group (eg an alcohol or a carboxylic acid or a derivative thereof, such as an ester or amide).
[0035] R is preferably a saturated aliphatic carbon chain containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0036] In addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, R may also contain ether bonds and other groups, such as amino groups. Preferably, R is a linear alkyl chain containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0037] X is preferably an -OH group.
[0038] Most preferably, the fatty compound is of the general formula CH3(CH2) n OH, wherein n is an integer from 7 to 29, preferably from 15 to 21.
[0039] Specific examples of suitable fatty alcohols are cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0040] Mixtures of any of the above fatty compounds may also be suitable.
[0041] The level of fatty compounds suitably ranges from 0.01 to 10 wt%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt%, more preferably 0.2 to 7 wt% and most preferably 0.3 to 6 wt% (based on the total weight of fatty compounds based on the total weight of the hair care composition).
[0042] The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty compound is suitably from 1:1 to 1:10, preferably from 1:1.5 to 1:8, optimally from 1:2 to 1:5.
[0043] The conditioning gel phase suitable for use herein can be characterized as a gel (Lβ) surfactant mesophase consisting of surfactant bilayers.
[0044] In a general method for preparing such a conditioning gel phase, a cationic surfactant, a high melting point fatty compound, and an aqueous carrier are heated to form a mixture, which is cooled to room temperature under shear. The mixture undergoes a number of phase transitions during cooling, typically yielding a gel (Lβ) surfactant mesophase consisting of a surfactant bilayer. The bilayer may grow, expand, or fold to form an extended sheet or spherical vesicle.
[0045] Preferably, the formation of the gel (Lβ) surfactant mesophase is controlled by maintaining the temperature of the mixture so that it falls within a specific range in the mixing vessel, typically about 55 to about 67°C.
[0046] In an example of this preferred process, the fatty compound and the cationic surfactant can be "eutectic" in the first container to form an isotropic phase. The eutectic will generally contain 45 to 90 weight percent of a fatty alcohol of the general formula CH3(CH2)nOH, wherein n is an integer from 7 to 29, preferably from 15 to 21; 10 to 40 weight percent of a cationic surfactant of the general formula [N(R 1 )(CH3)3] + (X) - A cationic surfactant, wherein R 1 is a C16 to C22 saturated alkyl chain and X is a halide; and 0 to 15% by weight of water (by weight based on the total weight of the eutectic). The eutectic in the first container is typically maintained at a temperature sufficient to maintain the fatty compound in a liquid phase (typically about 80 to 85°C). The eutectic is then added to a second container containing water at about 50 to about 60°C, and the eutectic and water are mixed. In the second container, the temperature of the mixture of the eutectic and water is controlled to maintain it at 56 to 65°C, preferably 58 to 62°C, more preferably about 60°C. The cationic surfactant component of the eutectic as described above may also comprise or consist of a fatty acyl amido amine of the following general formula:
[0047] R 1 -C(O)–N(H)-R 2 -N(R 3 )(R 4 )
[0048] Where R 1 It is a fatty acid chain containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms. 2 is an alkylene group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R 3 and R 4 Each is independently an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. In this case, the water in the second container will suitably include 0.01 to 3 wt % of an organic or inorganic acid capable of protonating the fatty amidoamine.
[0049] In an alternative example of a preferred process, the "eutectic" (as described above) and water can be added separately to a mixing vessel and mixed in a continuous process, wherein the temperature of the mixture of the eutectic and water is controlled by varying the temperature of the water added to the mixture. The water can be added in single doses or aliquots. Typically, a first container of water is maintained at about 40°C and pumped into the mixing vessel, while a second container of water is maintained at a sufficient temperature to change the temperature of the mixture of water and eutectic to fall within the desired range as described above.
[0050] In another example of a preferred process, the fatty compound and the cationic surfactant can be combined in an aqueous dispersion. According to this process, an aqueous dispersion is prepared, which generally contains 25 to 50% by weight of water, 4 to 20% by weight of a compound of the general formula CH3(CH2): n OH fatty alcohol, wherein n is an integer from 7 to 29, preferably from 15 to 21; and 1 to 5% by weight of a fatty amidoamine of the following general formula:
[0051] R 1 -C(O)–N(H)-R 2 -N(R 3 )(R 4 )
[0052] Where R 1 It is a fatty acid chain containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms. 2 is an alkylene group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R 3 and R 4 Each is independently an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms (based on the total weight of the dispersion). Preferably, the temperature of the aqueous dispersion is maintained above the melting point of the fatty alcohol, preferably at least 5°C higher than the melting point of the fatty alcohol. 1 )(CH3)3] + (X) - A cationic surfactant, wherein R 1 is a C16 to C22 saturated alkyl chain and X is a halide; it can then be added and mixed into the aqueous dispersion, typically at a content of 0.5 to 5% by weight (based on the total weight of the mixture). Preferably, the mixing of the cationic surfactant with the aqueous dispersion is monitored by measuring the viscosity, so that the mixing is complete when the viscosity change stabilizes (generally after about 20 to 60 minutes of mixing). After the mixing is complete, the fatty amidoamine is neutralized with the above-mentioned suitable acid. Preferably, the temperature of the mixture of the aqueous dispersion and the cationic surfactant is maintained at 56 to 67°C, preferably 58 to 65°C, more preferably about 63°C. Preferably, the process is a batch process.
[0053] Another preferred process for preparing the conditioning gel phase suitable for use herein comprises forming a cationic surfactant (generally of the formula [N(R 1 )(CH3)3] + (X) - , where R 1is an isotropic aqueous solution of a cationic surfactant (wherein X is a C16 to C22 saturated alkyl chain and X is a halide); and the isotropic aqueous solution of a cationic surfactant is mixed with a molten fatty compound (usually a fatty alcohol of the general formula CH3(CH2)nOH, wherein n is an integer from 7 to 29, preferably from 15 to 21). Typically, before the fatty alcohol is added to the isotropic aqueous solution of the cationic surfactant, the fatty alcohol is maintained at a temperature sufficient to maintain it in a liquid phase (usually about 80 to 85°C). Preferably, the temperature of the mixture of the fatty alcohol and the isotropic aqueous solution is maintained at 55°C to 65°C, more preferably 58°C to 62°C, and most preferably about 60°C.
[0054] Aqueous non-linear organopolysiloxane emulsion
[0055] The hair care composition of the present invention is obtained by blending a conditioning gel phase with an aqueous emulsion having an aqueous continuous phase consisting of water and a cationic surfactant or a blend of nonionic and cationic surfactants and an internal dispersed phase consisting of a non-linear organopolysiloxane and a hydrocarbon oil. Preferably, the weight ratio of organopolysiloxane to oil is from 40:60 to 65:35, more preferably from 50:50 to 65:35, even more preferably from 55:45 to 65:35, most preferably 60:40.
[0056] The non-linear organopolysiloxane of the present invention comprises a polysiloxane having the formula (RSiO3 / 2) n Silsesquioxane monomer units
[0057] Where n = 1;
[0058] R is an alkyl group, preferably a methyl group, an ethyl group or a propyl group, more preferably a methyl group;
[0059] and a copolymer segment of a polydialkylsiloxane, wherein the alkyl group is preferably methyl and the terminal group is preferably -OH; the most preferred polydialkylsiloxane is polydimethylsiloxane alcohol.
[0060] The weight average molecular weight of the organopolysiloxane of the present invention, measured using gel permeation chromatography, is preferably greater than 700,000 Da, more preferably greater than 800,000 Da, still more preferably greater than 900,000 Da, even more preferably greater than 950,000 Da, most preferably greater than 1,000,000 Da, but typically less than 1,400,000 Da, preferably less than 1,200,000 Da. For the avoidance of doubt, the unit Dalton (Da) is also referred to as the unified atomic mass unit (u).
[0061] A stress-controlled rheometer MCR 501 (Anton Paar, Austria) equipped with parallel geometry was used to characterize the organopolysiloxane / hydrocarbon mixtures. The tests were performed at a temperature of 20 °C, a gap size of 0.5 mm, a cross-frequency window of 100 Hz to 0.1 Hz, and a fixed strain of 0.5%. Excess sample at the plate edge was trimmed. After loading, the sample was left for 60 s for stress relaxation. The data were collected with a logarithmic step size of 10 points per decade. The storage modulus of the dispersed phase comprising the nonlinear organopolysiloxane and the hydrocarbon oil is sensitive to the weight ratio of the organopolysiloxane to the oil and can be calculated for the weight ratios specified above at 10 Hz, 1x10 2 Pa to 2x10 3 The range of Pa is changed.
[0062] After the hydrocarbons evaporated, the rheology of the organopolysiloxane was also characterized. For these measurements, the mass was recorded over time while the hydrocarbons evaporated. Once the mass indicated that no hydrocarbons remained, the organopolysiloxane sample was characterized as above.
[0063] Preferably, the non-linear organopolysiloxane has a storage modulus measured at 10 Hz ranging from 2x10 3 Pa to 3x10 4 Pa, preferably from 8x10 3 Pa to 2x10 4 Pa, more preferably from 1x10 4 Pa to 1.6x10 4 Pa.
[0064] WO2015 / 122989 and US2012 / 022210, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference, describe methods for preparing the branched organopolysiloxanes and aqueous emulsions of organopolysiloxanes of the present invention.
[0065] Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that, at the molecular level, multiple types of topological structures will be produced by the polycondensation reaction between a linear precursor molecule containing two functional groups on average and a branching agent containing two or more reactive groups per molecule. For this reason, the organopolysiloxane of the present invention is described as a non-linear organopolysiloxane in WO2015 / 122989 and US2012 / 022210 to define the product of such reactions. This reaction product may contain more than one topological polymer structure category known in the art. Such structures include, for example; side chains.
[0066] The non-linear organopolysiloxane of the present invention is a branched organopolysiloxane.
[0067] Suitable hydrocarbon oils in the context of the present invention include saturated, non-polar straight or branched chain aliphatic or alicyclic hydrocarbons having from about 10 to about 50 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
[0068] Preferred hydrocarbon oils in the context of the present invention are light mineral oil and isohexadecane.
[0069] Mineral oil is a clear oily liquid obtained from petroleum, from which waxes have been removed and the more volatile fractions removed by distillation. The fraction distilled between 250°C and 300°C is called mineral oil, which consists of a mixture of hydrocarbons, in which the number of carbon atoms per hydrocarbon molecule is usually between C10 and C40.
[0070] Mineral oils are characterized by their viscosity, with light mineral oils having lower viscosities than heavy mineral oils. Suitable light mineral oils will generally have a kinematic viscosity of 3.9 to 5.0 cSt at 40°C and a specific gravity of 0.810 to 0.830 at 25°C. Such materials are available under the trade name Lytol TM Commercially available.
[0071] Isohexadecane, such as that supplied under the trade name Permethyl 101A, available from Presperse Inc., NJ, USA, is a branched hydrocarbon having the molecular formula C16H34 suitable for use in the present invention. It is a colorless liquid with a boiling point of about 240°C.
[0072] It is important for the practice of the present invention that in the dispersed phase the nonlinear organopolysiloxane and the hydrocarbon oil are in the same droplet and not a mixture of two different emulsions.
[0073] In a preferred embodiment, the aqueous emulsion used in the present invention has an aqueous continuous phase comprising a mixture of a nonionic surfactant such as an alkyl polyethylene glycol ether (eg, PEG-7 propylheptyl ether) and a cationic surfactant such as cetyltrimonium chloride.
[0074] The total amount of surfactant used will vary depending on the specific surfactant selected and the target emulsion composition, but is generally 0.84 to 2.51% by weight of the aqueous emulsion.The internal dispersed phase comprising the organopolysiloxane and hydrocarbon in the aqueous emulsion may comprise 50 to 73% by weight of the emulsion.
[0075] Other surfactant options commonly used when emulsifying silicones may also be applied to the components of the internal dispersed phase of the present invention described above without adversely affecting performance as the performance derives from the action of the deposited internal phase on the hair. For example, it is also contemplated to use a cationic emulsifying surfactant alone without any nonionic emulsifying surfactant.
[0076] The weight % of the conditioning agent formulation represented by the inner dispersed phase of the emulsion may range from 0.05 to 3.5%, preferably from 0.1 to 3%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.75%, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2.5%.
[0077] One characteristic of an emulsion is the particle size. This can be measured, for example, by laser diffraction particle size analysis methods, which are well documented in the art. Several parameters can be used to characterize the emulsion particle size. For example, the parameter Dv(50) represents the upper limit of the particle diameter range in which 50% of the mass of all dispersed material is contained.
[0078] The aqueous emulsions of the present invention have a particle size having a Dv(50) value of from at least 5 microns to less than 12 microns, more preferably at least 6 microns or even at least 7 microns but typically not more than 11 microns, preferably not more than 10 microns, more preferably not more than 8 microns, even more preferably not more than 7 microns, still more preferably not more than 6 microns.
[0079] The aqueous emulsion of the present invention has a particle size of 5 microns to less than 12 microns Dv(50), preferably 7 microns to less than 12 microns Dv(50).
[0080] As particle size increases, the likelihood that the consumer will dislike the feel of the coating on the hair becomes more significant. For this reason, it is preferred to limit the particle size to less than 12 microns Dv(50).
[0081] The particle size of the emulsion can be controlled by methods known to those skilled in the art. The inventive and comparative emulsions were characterized using laser diffraction particle size analysis, more specifically using a Malvern Instruments Mastersizer 2000 particle size analyzer with a Hydro 2000SM dispersion unit (Malvern Instruments, UK).
[0082] Product forms and optional ingredients
[0083] The hair care compositions of the present invention are primarily intended for topical application to the hair and / or scalp of a human subject to improve hair properties such as hair fiber lubrication, smoothness, softness, combability, alignment, volume, body and shine.
[0084] The hair care compositions of the present invention are typically "rinse-off" compositions intended to be applied to the hair and then partially rinsed off.
[0085] A particularly preferred product form is a conditioner for use in hair treatment (usually after shampooing) and subsequent rinsing.
[0086] Typically, such a composition is applied to the hair (preferably hair that has been shampooed and then rinsed with water) and then worked through the hair. Preferably, the composition is then allowed to penetrate the hair for a period of about one to three minutes before being rinsed from the hair with water. Typically, from about 1 g to about 50 g of the composition is applied to the hair or scalp.
[0087] The hair care compositions of the present invention will typically contain from about 20% to about 95% water by weight based on the total weight, preferably at least 30%, more preferably at least 40%, more preferably at least 50%, even more preferably at least 60% or even at least 70%, but typically not more than 94%, preferably not more than 93%, more preferably not more than 92%, still more preferably not more than 91%, even more preferably not more than 90% or even not more than 80%. Other organic solvents may also be present, such as lower alkyl alcohols and polyols. Examples of lower alkyl alcohols include C1 to C6 monohydric alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol. Examples of polyols include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol and propylene glycol. Mixtures of any of the above organic solvents may also be used.
[0088] The hair care compositions of the present invention may also incorporate other optional ingredients to enhance performance and / or consumer acceptability. Suitable optional ingredients include, but are not limited to, preservatives, colorants, chelating agents, antioxidants, fragrances, antimicrobial agents, antidandruff agents, cationic conditioning polymers, styling ingredients, sunscreens, proteins, and hydrolyzed proteins.
[0089] In a second aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for enhanced silicone deposition on damaged hair.
[0090] Enhanced deposition of silicones on the damaged surface of the hair provides an advantage because it targets the silicone to areas that need it and does not unnecessarily coat areas that need less conditioning. Delivering silicones to undamaged areas may give the product user an unpleasant, heavy, coated feel.
[0091] The present invention will now be further described with reference to the following examples.In the examples, all percentages are by weight based on the total weight unless otherwise stated.
[0092] Example
[0093] Example 1: Effect of the composition of the present invention on silicone deposition
[0094] Hair conditioning compositions were prepared having the ingredients shown below in Table 1. Conditioner Examples 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 represent compositions according to the present invention.
[0095] In Table 1, Example Emulsions 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 represent aqueous organopolysiloxane emulsions according to the present invention. Example Emulsions 1 to 5 are emulsions of branched organopolysiloxane / isohexadecane with cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-7 propylheptyl ether and water (from Dow Corning), but have different particle sizes. The aqueous emulsion of Example Emulsion 1 has a particle size of 1.5 microns Dv(50). The aqueous emulsion of Example Emulsion 2 has a particle size of 2.6 microns Dv(50). The aqueous emulsion of Example Emulsion 3 has a particle size of 4.2 microns Dv(50). The aqueous emulsion of Example Emulsion 4 has a particle size of 7.16 microns Dv(50). The aqueous emulsion of Example Emulsion 5 has a particle size of 11.03 microns Dv(50).
[0096] In Example Emulsions 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, the weight ratio of branched organopolysiloxane to hydrocarbon oil (isohexadecane) was 60:40. To evaluate the performance of these products on hair, the hair was first washed with a 14% sodium lauryl ether sulfate (1EO) solution to remove any pre-existing deposits. The deposition achieved by each example formulation in Table 1 was compared to the deposition achieved by Comparative Conditioner A.
[0097] Comparative Conditioner A comprised a comparative emulsion comprising an aqueous emulsion of a blend of dimethicone and aminodimethicone in a 9:1 ratio with a particle size of about ~3 microns Dv(50) (from Dow Corning).
[0098] Comparative Conditioner B comprises a 2.5 micron Dv(50) emulsion of dimethicone / mineral oil of WO 2016 / 041748 with cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and water (ex Dow Corning).
[0099] Table 1
[0100]
[0101]
[0102] evaluate
[0103] The evaluation of the conditioner compositions of Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Example A is as follows:
[0104] All tests reported here used a standardized, consumer-relevant application protocol in which the product was applied to the hair for a fixed time, then rinsed off for a fixed time and allowed to dry. To quantify the deposition of silicones from the products on the hair, a 2.5 g hair sample was first washed with a 14% aqueous solution of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (1EO). 0.1 g of the solution was applied from a syringe per gram of hair, massaged by hand on wet hair for 30 seconds, and then rinsed with 4 liters of running tap water per minute. This process was repeated once more before applying the example conditioner or the comparative conditioner. 0.2 g of the conditioner was applied from a syringe per gram of hair on freshly washed and rinsed hair, massaged for one minute, and then rinsed for another minute. After the hair pieces were treated, they were dried at 50 degrees Celsius for one to two hours before measuring the silicone deposition.
[0105] result
[0106] Silicone deposition was quantified using X-ray fluorescence to detect elemental silicon contained in the conditioning active material.
[0107] The data are reported as parts per million of silicon referenced to the mass of hair. The deposition efficiency can be calculated by referring to the ppm value that would be achieved if all of the applied silicon remained on the hair after the conditioner product was rinsed off. A deposition efficiency of 1 means that all of the silicon in the formula has been deposited on the hair surface and remains there even after rinsing. For each conditioner formula, the deposition efficiency data for each virgin and bleached hair type are listed in Table 2. Bleached hair is used as an example of hair that is damaged due to chemical modification and therefore has an increased need for conditioning.
[0108] Table 2
[0109]
[0110] The above data indicate that when comparing example formulations having approximately the same particle size as Comparative Conditioner A (Conditioner Example 2), the silicone deposits on virgin hair at approximately the same efficiency as Comparative Conditioner A. However, the data in Table 2 also indicate that when comparing example formulations having the same particle size as Comparative Conditioner A (Conditioner Example 2), the silicone deposits on bleached hair at a significantly higher efficiency than Comparative Conditioner A, and further, the larger the particle size of the emulsion in the example formulation, the higher the deposition efficiency on bleached hair.
[0111] It is generally more difficult to deposit silicones from hair conditioners onto bleached hair than onto virgin hair, often resulting in less efficient deposition of the former than the latter.
[0112] The best results for silicone deposition efficiency on bleached hair were seen for aqueous emulsion particle sizes of 5 to less than 12 microns Dv(50).
[0113] Embodiment 2:
[0114] The compositions of Conditioner Example 2, Example 5, and Comparative Conditioner B were evaluated as follows:
[0115] Half Head Salon Testing:
[0116] Thirty-six panelists with dry to dry and damaged hair types of mixed length and texture were recruited for testing in a dedicated salon facility. The testing protocol used a stripping shampoo applied to both sides of each panelist, and each composition was then compared to a control in a half-head salon test. The compositions were evaluated by expert assessors based on the attributes detailed in Table 3 below. Some attributes were considered positive, while others were considered negative. Smoothness was a positive attribute, while frizz and dryness were negative attributes. In all cases where a difference was recorded, Example 5 scored higher than Example 2 and Comparative Conditioner B in smoothness (positive attribute) and lower than Example 2 and Comparative Conditioner B in frizz and dryness (negative attributes).
[0117] Table 3
[0118] Use phase property Comparative Conditioner B Example 2 Example 5 Drying stage Smoothness 17 / 15 11 / 25 6 / 30 Drying stage Frizz 14 / 21 20 / 16 26 / 10 Drying stage dry 18 / 18 23 / 13 30 / 6
[0119] The x in x / y represents the score of the control product, and the y in x / y represents the score of the test product
[0120] The control product is a conditioner containing standard silicone as in Comparative Conditioner A.
Claims
1. A hair care composition comprising a conditioning gel phase and an aqueous emulsion of a branched organopolysiloxane, wherein the branched organopolysiloxane comprises a polysiloxane having the formula (RSiO3 / 2) n The silsesquioxane monomer units, Where n = 1, R is an alkyl group, preferably a methyl group, an ethyl group or a propyl group, and copolymer segments of polydialkylsiloxane; the conditioning gel phase is formed by a cationic surfactant, a high melting point (25°C or higher) fatty compound and an aqueous carrier; and the aqueous emulsion of the branched organopolysiloxane comprises an aqueous continuous phase of water and a cationic surfactant or a blend of nonionic and cationic surfactants and a dispersed phase of the branched organopolysiloxane and a hydrocarbon oil, wherein the aqueous emulsion has a particle size of 5 to less than 12 microns Dv(50).
2. The hair care composition of claim 1, wherein the aqueous emulsion has a particle size of 7 to less than 12 microns Dv(50).
3. The hair care composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the weight ratio of the branched organopolysiloxane to the hydrocarbon oil is 40:60 to 65:
35.
4. A hair care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the branched organopolysiloxane to the hydrocarbon oil is from 50:50 to 60:
40.
5. A hair care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the branched organopolysiloxane to the hydrocarbon oil is 60:
40.
6. A hair care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the branched organopolysiloxane has a 2x10 3 Pa to 3x10 4 The storage modulus of 100 Hz was measured at 10 Hz using a stress-controlled rheometer MCR 501 (Anton Paar, Austria) equipped with parallel geometry, at 20° C., with a gap size of 0.5 mm, across a frequency window of 100 Hz to 0.1 Hz and at a fixed strain of 0.5%.
7. A hair care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrocarbon oil is isohexadecane or mineral oil.
8. A hair care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic surfactant used to form the conditioning gel phase is selected from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC), behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), protonated stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
9. A hair care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty compound used to form the conditioning gel phase is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
10. Use of a composition according to claims 1 to 9 for enhancing the deposition of silicones on damaged hair.
Citation Information
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